Instruments go out and the engine does not start
Hello forum users. Today I wanted to move the car (my first one, purchased 3 months ago), and when starting the engine, at the moment when the key is in the START position, all the electrics go out, the starter clicks, the engine does not start. The charge indicator on the battery is green (should we trust it?). Does anyone know why this could be?
Message from
SalagaHello forum users. Today I wanted to move the car (my first one, purchased 3 months ago), and when starting the engine, at the moment when the key is in the START position, all the electrics go out, the starter clicks, the engine does not start. The charge indicator on the battery is green (should we trust it?). Does anyone know why this could be?
If the car was parked for 3 months and did not start, then the battery needs to be charged. Also, then check the terminals.
Check the terminals. Measure the voltage on the battery. If below 12+ on charging. If the battery is in order, try knocking on the starter housing without fanaticism. If that doesn't help, remove the starter and check it.
Posted by
postal_a42Check the terminals. Measure the voltage on the battery. If below 12+ on charging. If the battery is in order, try knocking on the starter housing without fanaticism. If that doesn't help, remove the starter and check it.
There was nothing to check the voltage myself yet, but the indicator on the battery is green. I didn’t think to knock on the starter, I’ll try in the morning and report back.
Posted by
Pashtet251If the car was parked for 3 months and did not start, then the battery needs to be charged. Also, then check the terminals.
The car sat for a couple of days. The terminals have been checked, everything is fine.
Yes, the battery is dead!
Why guess? The starter has taken over everything and the instruments are going out! That the green light is on does not mean anything, this indicator shows that the electrolyte is normal or not, it will not show a short circuit! Just think about who will sell a car with a normal battery! Rarely does someone who knows pay attention to this when buying, but here is the first car!Message from
Alexey_KongYes, the battery is dead! Why guess? The starter has taken over everything and the instruments are going out! That the green light is on does not mean anything, this indicator shows that the electrolyte is normal or not, it will not show a short circuit!
Just think about who will sell a car with a normal battery! Rarely does someone who knows pay attention to this when buying, but here is the first car!
The battery from a healthy car also did not start the car, try and try and that’s it.
Message from
SalagaThe battery from a healthy car also did not start the car, try and try and that’s it.
what, fuck? relyuhi? starter? Also, when in the start position, does the panel go out? How did you connect the other battery? is the car healthy and then starts normally?
Last edited by Pashtet251; 06/14/2014 at 15:55.
Posted by
Pashtet251what, fuck? relyuhi? starter? Also, when in the start position, does the panel go out? How did you connect the other battery? is the car healthy and then starts normally?
The healthy one then started up on its own battery, connected it like everywhere else, the battery is connected, and also in the start position the panel goes out. Yesterday when the key was turned on, there was the sound of the starter cranking. And today “trrrrrrr” from the left half of the engine compartment, I don’t know what exactly it is, but it sounds like the sound of a relay.
Look for bad contacts. First of all, power fuses.
Carib AE95 4A – FHE, automatic transmission 1992 Chery Tiggo 1.8 manual transmission
Message from
SalagaThe healthy one then started up on its own battery, connected it like everywhere else, the battery is connected, and also in the start position the panel goes out. Yesterday when the key was turned on, there was the sound of the starter cranking. And today “trrrrrrr” from the left half of the engine compartment, I don’t know what exactly it is, but it sounds like the sound of a relay.
Also, the concept is flexible. you can connect INSTEAD of yours, or you can connect PARALLEL to yours, with wires. According to your descriptions, 80% bad contact, 20% starter. Take a tester and an assistant. 1) charge your battery! to be 100% sure of it. 2) connect the tester in the voltmeter position to the battery terminals. Let's say it's 12 volts. 3) the key is in the ON position, the volts will drop to 11 volts. 4) key to start. ATTENTION!!!! How much will the voltmeter show??? 5) the positive probe from the tester to the battery positive, and the negative probe to the body. Key to Start, how long will it show??? 6) negative probe for battery. The positive one must be connected to the fuse box under the hood, CAREFULLY ONLY. a bolt to it will be visible there, the tester will have to show ALLOWED 12 volts. if so, then the key is to START, if you can’t find it, then look where there is a plus in the cabin, for example (extend it with a wire, just isolate the connection) how long will it show??? Do all this and write down what happened. If you can’t do it yourself, then look for an electrician.
Last edited by Pashtet251; 06/14/2014 at 18:30.
Message from
SalagaHello forum users. Today I wanted to move the car (my first one, purchased 3 months ago), and when starting the engine, at the moment when the key is in the START position, all the electrics go out, the starter clicks, the engine does not start. The charge indicator on the battery is green (should we trust it?). Does anyone know why this could be?
Hello everyone, something similar happened when the starter brushes wore out, I also thought about the contacts with Akum
COROLLA AE114 4A-Fe, automatic transmission 4WD Xe.Saloon, 1999 There were COROLLA AE110 5A-Fe COROLLA ЕE111 4E-Fe
Message from
SalagaThe healthy one then started up on its own battery, connected it like everywhere else, the battery is connected, and also in the start position the panel goes out. Yesterday when the key was turned on, there was the sound of the starter cranking. And today “trrrrrrr” from the left half of the engine compartment, I don’t know what exactly it is, but it sounds like the sound of a relay.
By the way. POSITIVE terminal, the wire is screwed to it. Did you understand this part? cleaned it out?
let's take it in order: 1) on the ignition switch there is a + from the battery, all this plus subsequently goes to low-current (compared to the starter and generator) circuits, including the control of high-current circuits. 2) thus, when applying this plus, we turn on the low-current “starter” relay, which, as a rule, is located under the hood. 3) this relay, in turn, controls a high current relay (the so-called pull-in). to this retractor + is supplied through a fuse, if the starter even tries to spin, then this fuse is intact. 4) as was correctly noted above, + from the battery through a high-current fuse goes to the retractor, and after it is turned on, to the starter windings. It follows that for cleaning contacts we have the following points: + and – battery terminals, retractor contacts, body weight, starter weight (or on an internal combustion engine). 5) if the retractor operates reliably, there may be some other reasons for the starter not to operate: the contacts of the retractor (the so-called nickels) are burnt, the starter brushes or the petals of the starter rotor are burnt. 6) all this is true only with a 100% serviceable battery. 7) there was an unpleasant case with a client, when the banal reason for all similar troubles was that the starter could not turn due to the fact that the internal combustion engine was jammed... I hope this is not the case with you
