How to remove the panel on Kalina 2 (VAZ 2192, 2194)

Without removing the dashboard and panel

Read:

Another way. dismantle the “furnace” without removing the torpedo. Sequencing:

Coolant drain.
Removing the radiator cap and gas pedal. Unscrew the three nuts by 10. To remove the heater without disassembling the torpedo, you need to unscrew the cover
Removing the retaining ring on the brake booster rod. Removes brake pedal rod with retaining ring
Cut out the panel behind the radiator so you can pull it out without removing the dash. The radiator is removed through the split shell
Removing the radiator with the brake pedal depressed. Before removal, the nozzles in the engine compartment are disconnected.

Finally, the radiator is removed!

The above method is good because it produces less labor and time wasted, but then it will be necessary to fix the hole left in the shell using soundproofing material or vibroplast.

Removal and replacement

How to remove the instrument panel on a VAZ 2114
Pinout of the Lada Priora comfort unit

So, if you are firmly convinced that the Priora instrument panel is faulty, it must be removed for replacement

This operation must be carried out very carefully so as not to damage the trim housing and the wires running under the instrument cluster. First of all, according to the rules, when performing any work on electrical equipment, the battery must be disconnected. In this

In this

In this case, this action also makes sense, since the instrument panel ECU is under constant load to save the parameters. Therefore, you should first disconnect the battery terminal. After this, in the cabin, begin dismantling the device. First, remove the panel under the steering column covering the fuse box. It is held in place by three decorative plastic locks. By turning them half a turn, you can remove it. After this, remove the four screws holding the instrument panel trim panel. Now the combination is completely open.

Now you need to unscrew two more screws holding it and remove the panel. Carefully turn over. Move the connector latch to the side. With this action, it will partially come out of the groove. Now completely disconnect the part and put it aside. If the panel only needs to replace the lamps, then this is quite simple. They come immediately in special plastic nests when sold. On the device they are located in small wells, with the plastic end facing up. Just grab it and turn it a quarter turn counterclockwise. The lamp will immediately fall out. At the end, you need to insert a new one in its place, and turning it clockwise, fix it.

Replacing the panel

Before you put the new panel in place, you should make sure that power is supplied to it correctly. To do this, you will need a test lamp, with the ability to check both the “+” and “-” contacts. You need to know that on the 19th contact of the block there is a common “minus” of the device. Or as they say - “mass”. On pin 20 there is a constant plus from the battery, and on pin 21, a “plus” appears when the ignition is turned on. These connector sockets should definitely be checked before installing a new combination. And after the contacts have been checked, you can connect a new panel to the connector and check it by turning on the ignition. If everything is fine, you can install it in place. Hers or the old one, if it was only necessary to change the light bulbs. You can install the instrument cluster on the “Priors” panel by doing everything in reverse order.

Features of the Gamma instrument panel

The latest models of Priora cars are equipped with a factory navigation system. And in this case, a model called “Gamma” is installed. But do not assume that this is a well-made toy, suitable only for a car with

navigation. No, it installs perfectly on earlier versions of Priora. Since there is practically no need to change anything in the wiring. The only modification: run one wire to the car's diagnostic connector! But this will allow the driver, in addition to the stunning design, to have before his eyes the car’s on-board computer with many functions, including reading error codes from the main Priora ECU. In general, although it is an expensive thing, it is worth the money. In the video, removing the Priora instrument panel:

DIY muffler resonator
Lambda probe "Priors"
Features of the knock sensor on the Priora
What is a speed sensor on a Priora?

How to change the color of the instrument scale on a VAZ car

You need to take a piece of plastic and scissors. We cut out the contours so that the plastic fits into the main part. We also cut out places for the pointer drives. Next we apply markings for the LEDs. For fuel you need three LEDs, for temperature - four. Then we set the instrument panel numbers for each scale.

Now, guided by the markings, we make holes for the LEDs and resistors. This can be done with a hot awl or a small drill. The top of the LED needs to be ground off, since it has a built-in lens to focus the beam

It is important not to damage the light element itself. LEDs should be soldered in parallel with each other and in series with a resistance

How to remove a panel on a viburnum

How to connect a new instrument panel to the Lada Priora and Kalina

Removing the instrument panel assembly with heater Lada Kalina

How to remove the panel on Kalina? This question is asked by almost all car enthusiasts who have purchased a new or used AvtoVAZ car. Lada Kalina is an almost legendary car; there are a lot of jokes and stories about it. Of course, listening to all this is quite exciting, but when you yourself are faced with one of the comic problems, it’s no longer funny.

Kalina has many different flaws, and one of them is the dashboard. At the factory, its installation is carried out manually, which can later cause squeaks, unpleasant noise and other annoying sounds during a trip.

They check exclusively the gaps, and rarely pay attention to the quality of the torpedo connection. Because of this, many owners try to remove the panel themselves to eliminate the source of the noise. But this is not so easy to do either.

But this is not so easy to do either.

Removing the instrument panel is carried out in several stages, and everything should be disconnected extremely carefully

Disassembling the panel

To dismantle the instrument panel in Kalina, you should arm yourself with a set of high-quality screwdrivers and patience. To work you will need:

crosshead screwdriver;
slotted screwdriver;
10mm wrench with round head;
marker or tape to indicate disconnected wires.

Disassembly begins from the sides. How to remove a torpedo? The sequence is:

The first step is to disconnect the rubber seal that prevents the panel from being removed. Using a flat-head screwdriver, bend it to make room for dismantling.
Next you need to remove the plastic casing with three clips. It is located on the front pillar of the cover. Again, a flat-head screwdriver will come in handy, which can be used to pry off the socket.
The next step is to detach the trims in front of the glass. You can unscrew them using a Phillips screwdriver by unscrewing the fasteners on both sides.
After this you will be able to remove the black trim under the glass. It is secured with iron clips and screws, so there is no need to rush. Slowly pull towards you until it comes loose. It may happen that the clips get stuck under the panel or some of them will be missing altogether.
We unscrew all the screws that are nearby and remove the covers from the side air ducts.

After removing all the side and side elements, you can begin to dismantle the central part.

Removing the console

Now we need to start sequentially disassembling the panel in Kalina into parts. How to disassemble the panel?

Remove the ashtray: pull it towards you as far as it will go and unscrew the 4 screws that secure it.
After this you can get to two plugs. They are located on the sides of the emergency lights. Use a flathead screwdriver to pry it off and set it aside.
We unscrew the screws that are located under the plugs. These fasteners from below hold the console.
After the two screws are removed, pull the console (shield) towards you, but slowly so as not to break the wiring. We disconnect the wiring, first marking the wires so as not to confuse which is which later.
Now unscrew the steering wheel cover. It is held in place by 2 bolts, for which a 10mm wrench is useful, and 5 self-tapping screws.
Next, disconnect the instrument panel cover. There are only 2 screws here.
The top panel is secured with nuts. There must be at least 7 of them.
As you can see, the stove air duct is tightly fixed. What to do? You will have to rip off 2 lock washers and unscrew the remaining screws, which, in fact, secure the panel in place. Only self-tapping screws are enough for fastening.
Next, you can try removing the steering wheel. If it doesn’t work out, you’ll have to work a little harder and find the remaining fasteners. In any case, we look for all the hidden screws and unscrew them to the last.
Pull the panel towards you. If it gives in, it means everything is unscrewed. If somewhere she doesn’t want to move away, we arm ourselves with a screwdriver and unscrew the hidden fasteners.
After this you can disconnect it.

That's all the instructions on how to remove the instrument panel in the Lada Kalina.

Tuning the instrument panel is one of the main reasons why a torpedo and its adjacent parts are disassembled. Lada Kalina is not distinguished by its bright design and interesting design. What can you do about it? Install panel lighting. This solution will help improve the visibility of indicators. In addition, the perception of the interior will change. You can also change the panel to another one or repaint its parts. Such tuning of the instrument panel is a radical measure, but absolutely justified. The plastic the panel is made of is simply terrible.

Dismantling the panel is a painstaking task, but the hardest thing is to then put it all together so that the panel does not creak.

You need to fit the parts well and tightly, then no sounds will occur. If you first mark the wiring, then connecting all devices should not be difficult.

Suspension. not radically improve?

Since the Niva is an all-wheel drive SUV, when tuning it is necessary to pay attention to the suspension. The first step is the Niva elevator - increasing the ground clearance

This will create an impressive reserve for overcoming various obstacles. The concept of tuning the Niva 2121 chassis, as well as a suspension lift, includes:

Installation of spacers between suspension elements. You can make them yourself or buy them in stores.
Installation of shock absorbers "Rancho"
Installation of springs VAZ 2104
Strengthening the front and rear axles using steel boxes

The Niva 2121 suspension lift is a simple process from a technological point of view that can significantly increase the vehicle's cross-country ability. It must be remembered that lifting is directly dependent on the size of the wheels; the larger their diameter, the more significant modifications will be required. Therefore, it is necessary to maintain a balance so that tuning the Niva 2121 suspension with your own hands does not turn into a headache.

Tuning of the Niva 2121 transfer case is also necessary, although this process is largely a refinement. The main problem is the backlash of the front and rear axle shafts. It can be eliminated by installing new components:

Bearings (it is better to install a double-row variety)
Lids
Valov
Flanges

A good solution would be to strengthen the shaft support. To do this, instead of the original flange, install a modernized one, which has an additional bearing and oil seal.

The second common problem with transfer case is leaking seals. The solution here is extremely simple, you should correctly install high-quality oil seals and the childhood disease of the unit will be eliminated.

The third problem is the correct alignment of the transfer case in the horizontal and vertical plane. This is necessary to reduce vibration and, accordingly, wear of the moving parts of the unit. You can do the alignment manually, but it takes a lot of time, requires patience and the result does not always meet expectations.

The front suspension is independent, on wishbones, equipped with springs working in pairs and hydraulic shock absorbers. The design includes a stability stabilizer.

The rear suspension is dependent, with mounting to the rear axle beam and a Panhard rod. The suspension is provided by hydraulic shock absorbers and springs similar to those used in the front suspension.

The simplest and very justified step for those wishing to tune the Niva 2121 is to replace sets of springs and shock absorbers. The latest devices are now gas-filled, they are more reliable and handle irregularities better.

You can also recommend strengthening the shaft supports and the front and rear axles by installing special steel inserts - boxes, as well as increasing the ground clearance by using special inserts between the suspension elements.

All these measures will somewhat reduce the discomfort of driving on a bad road, slightly improve the ride and off-road qualities of the car, but they will not be able to radically change anything.

If you need really serious changes, you should think about replacing the rear suspension of the outdated Panhard system with a more modern independent design. This will not only improve the smoothness of the ride, but also significantly improve the vehicle's handling characteristics, especially on hard road surfaces.

Full tuning of the Niva-2121 is impossible without improving the properties of the suspension. Let's look at the most popular DIY Niva tuning. It includes:

Installation of spacers (store-bought or home-made) between suspension elements.
Replacing shock absorbers - for example, you can install Rancho shock absorbers.
Installing new springs.
Installation of steel boxes to strengthen the front and rear axles.

Refinement of the suspension lift during tuning of the Lada depends on the size and diameter of the wheels. The larger it is, the more significant modifications will be required.

Refinement of the Niva may also include tuning the transfer case. Problems with front and rear axle shaft play are solved by installing new components (that is, covers, bearings, flanges and shafts).

You can also strengthen the shaft supports by installing an upgraded flange with an additional oil seal and bearings in place of the factory ones. High-quality installation of the oil seal will reduce the risk of leakage.

To reduce vibration and wear of the suspension in its lower part, it is necessary to correctly align the transfer case in the horizontal and vertical plane. We perform alignment manually or use a subframe.

Tuning a VAZ-2121 with your own hands includes installing higher springs, which allows you to significantly increase ground clearance. However, in order for the ground clearance to be increased by as much as 10 cm, it is better to install a full lift kit.

Viburnum instrument panel, sound insulation without removal

How to remove the instrument panel on a VAZ 2107

The main source of squeaks on the Kalina panel and indeed any other Russian car are panel elements (glove compartment, fuse box, panel trim, etc.), air ducts, wiring harnesses and connectors. You will not need to remove the dashboard assembly, but you will have to remove the attached elements. As a result, you should see something like this:

Sound insulation of Kalina's glove compartment takes place in two stages: 1) We glue all the places where the glove box comes into contact with the panel, using anti-creak. 2) We glue the insides of the glove compartment with bitoplast so that its contents do not rattle during the trip.

Sound insulation of Kalina interior plastic. We remove the central tunnel, plastic lining of the window pillars and side panels. Depending on the situation, we glue all the plastic with anti-creak or bitoplast

We pay special attention to clips

Sound insulation of the Kalina instrument panel. First you need to remove the panel. Then glue the mask and the instrument cluster itself with modelin.

Noise insulation of the central lining of the Kalina console

Here we pay attention to the wires and pads. We wrap the wires in anti-creaking material and, if possible, secure them with plastic clamps so that they do not dangle.

We fill all the connectors on the wire side with hot glue from a gun so that they don’t make noise. We also glue the edges and contact points with anti-squeak.

Sound insulation of the Kalina steering column casing

In addition to the wires, you should also pay attention to the ignition switch, which can make squeaks when it comes into contact with the plastic casing. Modelin tool, clamps

Sound insulation under the Kalina panel. Under the cover we secure all the wiring and cables with clamps. We cover the places of contact with anti-squeak or bitoplast. The whole procedure will take you no more than one day, as a result of which about 90% of the crickets will be “killed”.

Video “Replacing light bulbs on Lada Kalina”

This video demonstrates how to replace the dash light bulbs (video created by IB Channel).

The instrument cluster, or otherwise the dashboard, as many call it, must be removed on Kalina in different cases, and the main ones will be listed below:

Faulty internal mechanisms or light bulbs requiring repair or replacement
Failure of the entire combination - usually does not happen so often (extremely rare with VDO panels)
The owner's desire to change the standard trim to another
Replacing the shield with another one (for example, Gamma)

To perform this work, the tools we need are a regular shaped screwdriver and a short one to unscrew the bolts securing the lining, however, I’ll tell you about everything in order below:

Let's sum it up

In addition to the irresistible desire of LADA Kalina owners to defeat the “crickets” in the panel, there is another reason for removing the structure, this also applies to the removal of the torpedo. This is a noble goal of tuning, especially since now many people know how to disassemble the instrument panel.

The domestic manufacturer has deprived the LADA Kalina of a chic design and quality of panel material with a variety of lights and electronic gadgets. The diehard owners did not give up here either, and boldly installed fashionable instrument panels with a neon glow into the standard design, repainted individual components, installed lighting (including for the feet), and also performed a great variety of modern “tricks.” The main thing is to achieve a good fit of the parts and the panel will thank the owner with a soothing silence.

Replacing dashboard light bulbs Lada Kalina video instructions

Lada Priora Hatchback Black Bunny Logbook Wheels R15 Kalina 2cross on Priora. Part 2

Hi all. Today we will replace the dashboard light bulbs on the Lada Kalina. On Kalina, the light bulbs in the dashboard are not reliable. We decided to write detailed instructions for replacing them to save you money on repairs.

We will need:

short flat and shaped screwdriver
long flat and figured screwdriver

Step-by-step replacement of dashboard lamps Lada Kalina

1. Lower the tongue and move the steering wheel down.

2. Unscrew the two marked screws for a shaped screwdriver.

3. After unscrewing the screws, pull the dashboard frame towards you by hand; it is latched.

4. Lower the panel frame with the top edge towards the steering wheel and pull it out.

The clips on the frame are practically disposable; before disassembling it is better to immediately buy new ones.

5. Unscrew the two screws on the sides of the instrument panel. Take a long flathead screwdriver.

6. After unscrewing the screws, lower the top edge of the dashboard down and turn it slightly to the right.

7. Use a screwdriver to pry off the clamp of the dashboard power connector.

After hooking it up, use your fingers to lift the latch slightly up and move the ear of the latch to the other side. I advise you to watch this on video so as not to break it.

8. After you move your ear away, the connector will come free. We remove the connector.

9. Remove the dashboard from the landing site.

10. Engineers have thought out how to replace lamps without unscrewing the back cover of the instrument panel.

11. Change the necessary lamps. In order to pull out the light bulb, you need to grab it by the body, turn it to the left and pull it out towards you. Next, remove the old one from the case and install the new one. Well, all that remains is to install the housing with the new lamp into the panel. To do this, insert and turn to the right.

I would like to note that the lamp that illuminates the liquid crystal display is not removable; it is soldered into the panel.

12. After replacing the lamps, insert the panel into place and connect the power connector. After installing the connector, lower the latch.

13. Raise the dashboard and get into the grooves. The grooves are located on the sides of the bottom of the dashboard housing.

After installation in the grooves, tighten the two fastening screws on the sides.

15. After checking, we continue assembly. If you have intact clips, you are lucky; if not, we change them. You can see the replacement of clips in the video.

16. Insert the panel frame and snap it into place. We insert it as we removed it.

17. Tighten the two screws at the top and the job is complete.

We also recommend:

What should owners of cars whose design has already been modified do?

According to the Technical Regulations of the Customs Union (Section 4, Chapter V) “On the safety of wheeled vehicles,” in the event of a change in the design of a car, its owner is obliged to conduct a preliminary technical examination and safety check of the design of the vehicle after making upgrades (tuning) to it. Such checks and examinations are possible and can only be carried out by accredited testing laboratories that are included in the Unified Register of Organizations that carry out certification and testing based on laboratories in the territory of the Customs Union.

The unified register of certification bodies and testing laboratories of the Customs Union can be viewed on the official website of the Eurasian Economic Commission. Here is the official website address: https://www.eurasiancommission.org/

This is a section of the Department of Technical Regulation and Accreditation of the Eurasian Economic Commission. On their section of the website you can also familiarize yourself with other important documents related to road safety and operation of vehicles in the territory of the Customs Union.

Sound insulation of Kalina panel/dashboard

The disease of Russian cars is rattling, crickets and squeaks, and the LADA Kalina panel is no exception; it is also made of inexpensive plastic, like the rest of the interior elements. Let's figure out how to soundproof Kalina's instrument panel without removing or dismantling it.

If you decide to make soundproofing for Kalina yourself, then you will have to buy:

Anti-creak (modelin).
Vibrating material (for example, STP).
Plastic clamps.
Hot-melt gun and hot glue.
Bitoplast or splen, optional.

Instrument panel Kalina, sound insulation without removal

The main source of squeaks on the Kalina panel, and indeed any other Russian car, are panel elements (glove compartment, fuse box, panel trim, etc.), air ducts, wiring harnesses and connectors. There is no need to remove the dashboard assembly, but you will have to remove the attached elements. As a result, you should see something like this:

We pay special attention to clips

Sound insulation of the Kalina instrument panel. First you need to remove the panel. Then glue the mask and the instrument cluster itself with modelin.

Noise insulation of the central lining of the Kalina console

Here we pay attention to the wires and pads. We wrap the wires in anti-creaking material and, if possible, secure them with plastic clamps so that they do not dangle.

We fill all the connectors on the wire side with hot glue from a gun so that they don’t make noise. We also glue the edges and contact points with anti-squeak.

Sound insulation of the Kalina steering column casing

In addition to the wires, you should also pay attention to the ignition switch, which can make squeaks when it comes into contact with the plastic casing. Modelin tool, clamps

We get rid of all Kalina's rattles, remove the panel

In order not to miss a single cricket, you cannot do without removing the Kalina panel. In addition to what was mentioned above, we add sound insulation to the Kalina panel: 1) We make the dashboard heavier. To prevent the plastic from rattling, it is made heavier. Vibrating material is suitable for this. We glue the back side of the panel with vibration. 2) Pasting the panel with foam or bitoplast. Which in total will not only get rid of squeaks, but also reduce the noise level of the engine. Sound insulation of Kalina air ducts. The last element that is located under the panel. We cover them with bitoplast and the edges with model. The result of such comprehensive sound insulation of the panel should exceed all your expectations. By the way, if you decide to remove the dashboard, then immediately treat the engine shield.

Photo source:

Keywords:

Operation algorithm

Started:

The front door seal will need to be bent and pulled towards you very carefully; The decorated plastic casing must be removed from the front roof pillar. This is easy to do - just remove the 3 clips that secure the cover; Now you will need to find two screws securing the air vent grilles, as well as the trim in front of the glass. The screws are on both sides, and to unscrew them you will need a shaped screwdriver (preferably with a short handle); In front of the glass we also see a plastic cover (it is black). We remove it by gently pulling it towards ourselves.

Note that the overlay is attached using iron buttons;

During dismantling, if you act carelessly, the clips may fall under the panel. It's okay, they can be replaced with new ones; We dismantle the side nozzles on the air vents by unscrewing the screws; We take out the “beard”; It's time to open the ashtray, behind which there are 4 screws; We turn them inside out and take out the ashtray; After that, putting your hand under the ashtray, use a screwdriver to pry off the two side plugs. They are located on both sides of the emergency system key;

They are located on both sides of the emergency system key;

This is done due to the fact that under the plugs there are two screws that are responsible for fixing the “beard” from below. We pull the lower part towards ourselves, but very carefully. You will also need to turn off all the chips, not forgetting where they were; We also remove the cover on the steering wheel and dashboard. The latter is held by 2 black self-tapping screws; We also unscrew the panel from above, using a 10-piece head. The panel is also secured with 7 or 9 screws, depending on the specific machine; At the windshield, the heater air duct sits on lock washers. It is better not to remove them, as the plastic rods will simply come off. For this reason, we tear them ourselves, and instead of them we use self-tapping screws during assembly; You don’t have to remove the steering wheel at all, although the panel comes out with some effort. But in order to reduce time, you can take such an adventure; The time has come to completely remove the torpedo, but we’re in no hurry yet

We carefully check all areas where the screws holding the panel could remain and unscrew them. We pay special attention to the side parts and niches; Carefully pull out the torpedo. It can be easily removed if there is nothing holding it

Let us note right away that it is easier to remove the panel through the passenger door. As for the method of draining the coolant and removing the stove, everything is done almost the same, except with some nuances. After the sound insulation has been carried out, we install the panel in place. Don't forget to first pass the block with wires for the switch. We also insert the glove compartment light in advance, using the appropriate holes. Thus, the operation can be considered complete. Having learned how to remove a torpedo on Kalina, you can safely take on this work, even without the help of an assistant. On the other hand, an extra pair of hands certainly won't hurt.

Setting up Paint A Car Dashboard

Changing the lighting design is a good way to update your dashboard tuning. This method is equally good for both a modern car and a classic one, and a nearby auto shop will help you choose the right paint. There are also instrument kits available to improve damaged or outdated panels. Sequencing:

Choose what color you want to repaint the dashboard. Think about how to prefer a car's exterior paint color or create a two-tone color effect. You can also contact specialists or look at samples on the Internet.
Clean the panel and degrease with alcohol. This will help the paint adhere well to the surface.
Apply duct tape to protect any areas where you want to maintain the original color.
Spray 3 coats of spray paint. Wait until the paint dries.
Remove protective tape.
Treat the surface with varnish.
Purchase and install a set of stickers. These kits offer logo trim pieces and other embellishments that can enhance the appearance of panels such as wood. Such stickers can completely replace paint.

The installation process typically involves applying a primer to a clean, dry, existing panel, then peeling and bonding the trim material to it.

Dismantling the console on Kalina

This stage involves removing the Lada Kalina torpedo into its component components.

Remove the ashtray: pull it towards you and unscrew the 4 screws. They keep her in her nest.
Next we get to a pair of plugs, which are located on both sides of the emergency button. They need to be pryed off with the same screwdriver and put aside.
Let's move on to the screws located under the plugs. It is these mounting components that hold the console underneath.
Having unscrewed a couple of screws, we begin to pull the console towards us. We do it slowly in order to avoid a break in the electrical connections.
We disconnect the cable blocks from the sockets of the current collectors, simultaneously marking them.
It's time to unscrew the steering column cover. It is held in place by a pair of size 10 bolts and five screws.
We unscrew the screws (2 pcs.) holding the casing of the panel itself.
The upper section of the panel is held in place by nuts, the number of which should be seven. We “defeat” them.
Removing the stove air duct is problematic. To “surrender” it, we tear off two lock washers, and then unscrew the remaining list of screws. During subsequent installation of this particular small unit, it is enough to use only screws.
We look for all the “hidden” screws around the perimeter and “sentence” them to unconditionally unscrew them.
Only now can you carefully pull the panel towards you. If she “listens” to you, then everything was done correctly. If any obstacles appear, it is not difficult to find the “hidden” fastening element.

Let's check: are all electrical connections disconnected? If yes, then the dismantling procedure on the LADA Kalina model has come to an end.

Why does the instrument panel backlight on the Lada Kalina not light up?

During operation of the Lada Kalina, situations may arise when the dashboard backlight disappears. If this happens, then you need to find the cause of the breakdown as soon as possible and eliminate it. There are several reasons for the backlight to disappear, but they are all related to a malfunction of the car's electrical network.

Removing the instrument panel

In most cases, before establishing the reason for the disappearance of the backlight on the Lada Kalina dashboard, you first need to dismantle it.

To remove the instrument panel you will need the following tools:

a set of keys;
Phillips and flathead screwdrivers of different lengths.

The procedure for dismantling the instrument panel on the Lada Kalina:

Turn off the power to the car. To prevent a short circuit during work, you must first disconnect the negative terminal from the battery. If this is not done, there is a possibility of electrical equipment failure.
Lower the steering column to its lowest position. This will allow you to gain easier access to the instrument panel.
Unscrew the two screws securing the cover; this will require a short screwdriver. Then it is carefully pulled out, while it is necessary to overcome the resistance of the spring clamps. It is necessary to shake the pad and gradually pull it towards you.

When the dashboard has been dismantled, you can proceed to diagnostics and search for the reasons that caused its malfunction.

Video: removing the instrument panel

Brightness adjustment lost

One of the very first actions to take when the instrument panel backlight disappears is to check the brightness adjustment. The driver himself or his passenger can change the setting. There is a wheel on the panel with which you can set the brightness of the instrument lighting. If it is turned to minimum, the backlight may glow very weakly or not glow at all. Just turn the wheel and adjust the brightness.

Fuse problems

The next step in troubleshooting is to check the fuses. To do this, you need to use the technical documentation of the car and find where the fuse responsible for the instrument lighting is located. The fuse box is located on the left side under the cover with the light switches.

Also, the purpose of the fuses is written on the cover and if you look closely, you can find where which one is located. It is enough to replace the required fuse and if the problem is there, the instrument lighting will start working. On the cover, the fuse responsible for the instrument lighting and interior lighting is designated F7.

In addition, the socket into which the fuse is inserted may become damaged, or a breakdown may occur inside the unit itself. To diagnose, you will have to completely remove the fuse box. If the mounting block fails, it must be replaced.

Wiring problems

One of the most unpleasant options is a malfunction in the car’s electrical wiring, which leads to failure of the instrument panel backlight. This may occur as a result of a broken wire. To identify it, you need to use a multimeter to check the wires responsible for powering the instrument backlight. They can be identified on the car's electrical diagram. Once the break is found, it is removed and isolated.

In addition, the reason may be oxidized contacts of the mounting block or wire blocks. In this case, disconnect the connector near the fuse box and on the dashboard. After this, inspect and, if necessary, clean the contacts.

Problems with light bulbs

It is possible that the instrument panel lighting has disappeared due to failed light bulbs. There are a total of 5 light bulbs on the Lada Kalina dashboard.

Replacing them yourself is easy:

The dismantled instrument panel is turned over, since the light bulbs are located at the back.
Take out the light bulbs and check their functionality using a multimeter. The cartridge is turned counterclockwise. If you have difficulty pulling the light bulb out of the socket by hand, you can use pliers.

Video: replacing light bulbs

The board burned out

In some cases, a problem with the dashboard lighting may be due to a faulty control board. Some craftsmen try to restore it with a soldering iron, but this is a complex process and only professionals can do it. Usually, when such an element fails, it is replaced with a new one.

Preparing to replace lamps

Replacing light bulbs in the dashboard of a Lada Kalina is a simple process, so even a driver without experience can cope with such an undertaking. The most difficult thing in this work is to get to the lighting fixtures; this event is carried out not only to replace failed light bulbs, but also if the car owner wants to replace a regular lamp with LED ones.

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First of all, you should go through the preparatory process, the essence of which is to remove the car panel. After the torpedo is removed, you will need to prepare the following tools:

a device called a “tester”;
several screwdrivers;
new LED or conventional lamps.

"Gill" shape

In this case, it all depends on the taste preferences and personal preferences of the car owner. However, it would not hurt to additionally treat the welded seams with a special anti-corrosion compound. In this case, the metal is not at risk of rust formation and, as a result, deterioration in the appearance of the vehicle.

If there are decorative “gills”, the car’s exterior will undergo serious visual changes. The appearance will change dramatically, adding features of aggressiveness and power.

By the way, the holes may not be real, but purely decorative. Any car store or market sells special decoy covers. These trims are simply attached to the hood. And only you will know about the imitation.

Of course, if you decide to really tune the car, then you will have to tinker a lot with the actual holes for the “gills”.

As a result, you will receive a completely new car that has no analogues. All that remains is to additionally install an air intake on the hood - now your “iron horse” will definitely have no equal on the roads.