What to do if the speed drops and the VAZ-2110 8 valve injector stalls

Why the battery charging light is on: causes and malfunctions

Welcome, friends, to the DIY auto repair website.
When you turn the ignition key, a number of warning lights come on on the dashboard. They signal that the system is working properly and the engine is ready to start. The battery charging light is on

One of these indicators has an image of a battery. When you turn on the ignition, it starts to light up, and after starting the engine, it goes out.

This indicates that the battery is charging. But what if this does not happen? Why does the battery charging light stay on even after starting?

Looking for air leaks

Since injection and carburetor engines are structurally different, especially their fuel and air systems, we will consider possible places for air leaks separately.

1. Vacuum booster and its hoses;
2. Idle air control (if equipped) in the sensor area;
3. Intake manifold gasket;
4. Canister purge valve;
5. Throttle assembly gasket;
6. Injectors (via O-rings);
7. The pipe between the throttle body and the air filter.
8. Pipes of the crankcase ventilation system.
9. Receiver studs.

Points 1 and 3 above are also typical for carburetor engines. Next, you should pay more attention to the carburetor, since it is there that air is most often sucked in, namely:

1. Through the gasket located under the carburetor;
2. Through failed diaphragms of the economizer damper, starting throttle.
3. Incomplete fit of the throttle valve (for example, as a result of its clogging);
4. Through the fuel mixture quality screw;
5. Air leaks through the throttle axles.

6. Through the gasket between the float chamber cover and the body. As a result of strong compression, the housing surface bends; it can reach 1-2 mm in the center. A gasket won't help the situation. Needs sanding.

A little theory: scheme of work

To solve the existing problem, you must understand the essence of the interaction between the vehicle generator and the power source (battery).

While driving, the battery is in constant charging mode with a voltage of 13.6-14.2 Volts. As engine speed increases, the voltage at the generator output increases. But this is unacceptable.

To limit the voltage, a small relay regulator is inserted into the rotor excitation circuit. Its task is to reduce the current to a normal level (even with a significant increase in the speed).

The result is maintaining the battery charge voltage at a stable level. If the battery light is on, this indicates a lack of charging from the generator.

How does the scheme work? After turning on the ignition, voltage through fuse No. 10 (for VAZ-2107) is supplied to the battery charge indicator lamp.

Next, the “+12V” voltage passes through the diode, the built-in relay-regulator (we mentioned it above), the brush, the slip ring and the winding.

• Poor charging for VAZ 2107 carburetor

As soon as the rotor speed increases, the phase voltage also increases. As a result, the voltage at the terminals of the battery warning light is equalized and it goes out. At the same time, the battery is charging.

How should a good generator work?

To understand why the battery is not charging, you need to have a clear idea of ​​how the generator operates in normal mode. First, let's understand that the generator is much more important than the battery. The second performs only two functions in the car: starting the ignition system and powering electrical consumers when the engine is not running.

Therefore, the battery of the VAZ 2109 carburetor and VAZ 2109 injector functions more as an auxiliary current source. It consists of lead plates combined into sections. These elements interact with the electrolyte (water + sulfuric acid). In this way, the battery converts chemical energy into electrical energy.

The generator consists of the following basic elements.

1. Stator (a stationary element made of round steel sheets).
2. Stator winding (coils placed in its slots).
3. Rotor (a movable element rotating inside the stator; consisting of a shaft with a core on which many layers of copper wire are wound - an electromagnet, and 2 six-pole cores are installed on top).
4. Back and front covers.
5. Brush holder with graphite brushes; Since 1993, the brush holder for the VAZ 2109 has been equipped with a voltage regulator.
6. Contact rings.
7. Voltage output contact.
8. Diode bridge.

Why can't the generator start the engine on its own? Because of the principle of its operation.

In order for this current source to begin generating electricity, the rotor must be transferred to rotational motion from the crankshaft. The crankshaft and rotor pulleys are connected by a V-belt. The crankshaft begins to rotate, transmits torque to the rotor shaft, the electromagnet creates induction, and voltage appears. The circuit between the battery and the generator is closed and the battery is no longer needed. Then the generator itself supplies energy to all devices and, most importantly, charges the battery.

The battery wire is connected to the brush holder on the back cover through the ignition switch. Graphite brushes are constantly pressed against the slip rings of the generator using springs and ensure good contact. On the same cover there is an output contact for outputting the voltage generated by the generator.

But the current produced by the generator is supplied from the stator winding to the output contact not directly, but through a diode bridge. The bridge plays the role of a rectifier. It converts the alternating current of the stator winding into direct current, which is necessary for all Nine electrical appliances. The brush holder also has a voltage regulator that prevents high voltage from reaching consumers. Due to a breakdown of the main components of the generator, the battery may not be charged.

Reasons why the battery charging light is on

In fact, there are many reasons why the battery light comes on and does not go out. These include:

1. breakdown of the relay regulator, diode bridge, additional diodes;
2. the appearance of a break in the generator excitation circuit;
3. decreased quality of contact at the battery terminals or generator output;
4. generator brush wear;
5. lack of high-quality contact of the ground wire.

What to do if the battery charging light is on?

First of all, get out of the car and, with the engine running, measure the voltage at the battery terminals (do not remove the clamps under any circumstances).

If charging is in progress, the voltage should be at 13.6-14.2 Volts. In the absence of charge, the voltage level will be much lower - about 12 Volts.

To fix the problem, prepare the following tools:

1. twelve volt indicator light,
2. two screwdrivers (flat and Phillips),
3. multimeter,
4. pliers,
5. knife,
6. Use sandpaper to clean contacts.

So let's get started:

• The readings of the on-board voltmeter indicate the presence of a charge, the charge signal lamp on the dashboard does not light up, there are about 12 volts at the battery terminals, and the battery itself is almost discharged.

In such a situation, clean the wire connections on the power source itself. If these measures are useless, measure the voltage level at terminal “30” of the generator itself.

Place one multimeter probe on this terminal, and the other on ground. If the voltage here is much higher than at the battery, then strip the thirtieth terminal. If necessary, replace the wire from the generator to the battery.

• The voltmeter on the dashboard and the lamp show the presence of a charge, but the battery is discharged.

The voltage on the battery is normal (about 14 Volts). Turning on a load (for example, headlights) causes the charge arrow to shift to the extreme left position.

• The VAZ 2110 battery charging indicator light came on - what to do?

The main reason is weak belt tension on the generator pulley (tighten the belt, and if it is damaged, replace it).

This problem can also be caused by a breakdown of one of the diodes, as well as a break in the stator phase winding. Turn off the ignition and check the diodes with a multimeter. In case of breakdown, replace them.

Check the generator brushes. To do this, take them out and measure the length. If it is less than five millimeters, then it is better to replace the brushes.

• When you turn the key in the ignition, the charge warning lamp does not light up, the charge sensor does not work, and there is no charge on the battery. The reason is a blown fuse.

Its designation is F10, rating is 10 Amperes. If installing a new fuse does not produce results, then the reason must be sought in the ignition relay or the lock itself.

• After turning on the ignition, there is no charge, all devices work, the warning light does not light up.

The check is simple - remove the wiring from terminal “sixty-one” of the generator and connect it directly to the “minus” (car body). If the light comes on, then the cause of the problem is the generator field winding.

The second option is bad contact in the connector. If after cleaning there is no result, then there is a risk of the lamp itself burning out.

• When you turn the key in the ignition, the charge lamp lights up, and after starting it continues to light up. In this case, there is no charging or appears periodically. The reason is insufficient contact of the wire at the connector with the dashboard (it may oxidize).

Finally, check the relay regulator. To do this, apply voltage from the battery to its contacts. If there is 12 volts on the brushes, then the relay is working properly. If not, the device must be replaced.

If you have problems charging the battery (the warning light does not go out or does not light up at all), then check all versions.

But, as a rule, the problem is always on the surface, and the cause is poor contact, a burnt out light bulb or a faulty relay regulator. Good luck on the roads and of course no breakdowns.

• The battery light is on on the instrument panel of the VAZ 2110, reasons and how to fix it

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Hello. If on your VAZ 2109 -2114 car, with the engine running, the battery charge light is on or lights up and goes out when the speed increases, then this article will be useful to you. The light should go out immediately after starting the engine. Below I will talk in detail about the causes of this malfunction and how to eliminate it.

Hard gas pedal VAZ 2112 16 valves

Yesterday I took my friend’s new car for a ride and felt a very light pressure on the gas pedal.
Mine is much tighter. Can you tell me where to lubricate it? Yesterday I took my friend’s new car for a ride and felt a very light pressure on the gas pedal. Mine is much tighter. Can you tell me where to lubricate it?

Sorry for interfering, but I have the opposite problem - the gas pedal is too weak, which makes my leg tense during long trips and gets tired from constantly holding it. What do you advise ?

Remove the pedal spring at the dealership and get a tighter one at the market.

If 52 or 54, then they themselves are tight!!

But you can make them easier.

Yesterday I took my friend’s new car for a ride and felt a very light pressure on the gas pedal. Mine is much tighter. Can you tell me where to lubricate it?

I also thought that the gas pedal was somehow tight, so I pressed the high pressure cable. The pedal simply started to fly, which caused inconvenience for me! You don’t feel the pedal, you start to move away, you put your foot in the void, and the revolutions are already 4 thousand! and on long trips it’s difficult to keep your leg in one position, you get tired quickly!

saSH

Ask someone to drive the injection 2107. If the spring on the pedal is not folded back, then it’s basically like being in a gym.

We can also take off the spring. If the cable is normal, then one on the throttle will be enough.

Well, it won’t hurt to shed the cable either.

I wouldn’t recommend spilling the cable with the transmission. Take the most liquid one (even better - silicone), it does not thicken in the cold and collects less dust.

Added after 2 minutes 18 seconds:

and if you put a shorter cable, then from what car?

Source

Why does the battery icon light up on the instrument panel of the VAZ 2109 -2114.

To explain the cause of this malfunction in a nutshell - the battery light comes on when the generator does not charge the battery or there is an open circuit in this circuit (for example, a fuse has blown). A list of all the reasons why the light comes on:

1. The fuse in the mounting block (f16) has blown.
2. The terminals on the battery have oxidized.
3. The alternator belt is broken or slipping.
4. The brushes are worn out.
5. The relay-regulator is faulty.
6. Breakdown of the diode bridge.
7. Open circuit or short circuit in the stator or rotor of the generator.
8. A break in the negative wire supplying the instrument panel (the generator has nothing to do with it).

Replacement

To fix it, it is recommended to completely disassemble the box, but in fact this work can be done without “splitting” the gearbox.
In any case, you need to remove it. Before removing the box, disconnect the battery, remove all the chips from the box and unscrew the speedometer drive. On some models, it may be necessary to remove the exhaust system "pants". Only after this is the gearbox removed. After removing the box, the bell should be removed. Otherwise, it will interfere with further work. It is also advisable to clean the box from dirt.

On most gearboxes, the bearing is secured using retaining rings. They are removed using a screwdriver. You need to pry them off and loosen them a little, after which they can be easily removed. For greater convenience, you can take the ring with tweezers. After this, you need to use a screwdriver to pry the bearing by the ring groove, and at the same time you need to move the input shaft forward.

Next, a pry bar is placed between the bearing and the box. For this you will need an assistant. He will hold the montage. Your task is to press out the bearing with careful but strong blows on the input shaft. During the process it is necessary to rotate the shaft. In total this can take up to 20 minutes. There are special pullers, but using them on an unassembled box is problematic. To disassemble a gearbox, you need to have experience in such work.

Before installation, the bearing is lubricated with engine oil. It should be pressed in carefully. To do this, the shaft is pulled forward. The bearing must be driven into place with light blows of a small hammer. You should knock on the inner ring, and do it evenly, in a circle. After pressing the bearing into place, make sure it is working properly. It should spin absolutely calmly. Afterwards the box is assembled in the reverse order and installed on the car.

Finding the reason why the light bulb is on.

If you see that the VAZ 2114 - 2109 charging light is on, then feel free to open the hood and see if the generator drive belt has come off. Also, the belt should not make any extraneous noise. Having checked the belt, we move on, open the cover of the mounting block and check whether fuse f16 (on the cover there is a numbering of all fuses). Is the fuse intact? If yes, let's move on.

Having a multimeter will be a big plus. We check the voltage at the battery terminals with a multimeter - it should be 14.4V (small deviations of one tenth of a volt are possible). If the voltage corresponds to the standard, then you most likely have a negative wire supplying the instrument panel, otherwise we measure the voltage between the positive terminal of the generator and ground. It should also be equal to 14.4V. If this is the case, then most likely the battery terminals or the rings that fit onto the terminals have oxidized. Clean them until they shine.

There is no 14V at the generator output, which means you will have to remove it because it does not charge. The culprit may be:

• Brushes.
• Relay - regulator.
• Diode bridge.
• Stator or rotor windings.

You can read more about this in the article “ Reasons why the VAZ 2109 - 2114 generator does not charge.”

The light comes on at idle and then goes off.

A separate description requires a problem when the light comes on or shines dimly at idle and goes out as the speed increases. In this case, there can be only two reasons:

1. The relay-regulator is faulty.
2. The alternator belt is slipping.

I hope this article helped you understand the reasons why the battery light comes on on VAZ 2109 - 2114 cars.

Leave your questions and comments in the comments, I will definitely answer them!

While driving

It is also an unpleasant situation when the car has jerks and dips during acceleration. This can happen both when driving and when starting off. A particularly unpleasant, or even dangerous, situation can arise while driving, for example, when a car is about to overtake, and then there is a sudden failure.

The causes of jerks during acceleration can be both those already mentioned and slightly different ones:

• If you have a carbureted car that jerks when accelerating, this may indicate that the ignition is too early. You need to set the lead angle. And checking the ignition timing is quite simple: at speed 4, accelerate to 50 km/h and brake sharply. If detonation lasts 1-2 seconds, then the ignition is set perfectly, the reason is not there;
• on “injectors” everything is controlled electronically. There, the jerking while driving and during acceleration may be due to the mixture being too lean. But this should be shown by diagnostics in the service. If the sensors “know about this, but are silent,” then it is quite possible that they themselves are faulty and must be replaced.

VAZ 2109 battery light is on

It is not always possible to immediately understand why the battery light on a VAZ 2109 is on. It can light up brightly or dimly, constantly or intermittently. But in any case, you should not ignore this, there may be serious reasons.

The first case is that on a VAZ 2109 the battery light is dimly lit. This means that voltage is supplied to the battery, but its value is insufficient to charge. This happens due to a weakened on-board generator belt. The belt should not dangle. If you press it with your finger, the deflection should not exceed 1-1.5 cm. If it is larger, you need to unscrew the nut on the bracket and move the generator around the axis towards the motor. And tighten the nut again.

The same undercharging effect can cause oxidation of the contacts at the battery terminals or at the terminals of the generator itself. The oxide film on the metal surface creates parasitic resistance, which prevents current from passing.

The VAZ 2109 battery light also lights dimly if the voltage regulator in the generator fails . In this case, the generator does not fit into the operating range of 13.7-14.3 V, but supplies low voltage. A value of 12 V and below is no longer capable of charging the battery, since the current simply will not flow inside due to the internal resistance of the battery. If, on the contrary, a faulty generator supplies high voltage (15 V or higher) for a long time, the battery will quickly wear out and may even boil. The regulator is completely replaced and cannot be repaired. To replace it, you need to remove and disassemble the generator.

But it happens that the battery not only does not charge, but also completely powers the car’s network. The generator does not work at all, and the battery light on the VAZ 2109 is constantly and brightly lit. In this case, the battery charge will last for several hundred kilometers, in the best case scenario. The reason for this may be, again, a non-working voltage regulator. However, even a fresh regulator quickly fails if the problem lies in the generator rectifier unit.

The operation of the rectifier unit is based on a diode bridge. Diodes fail quite easily, as they are sensitive to the influence of network parameters. They pass current in one direction, rather than allowing it to pass into the generator winding. If the diode burns out, then current can flow into the winding, thereby causing it to melt, short out, and so on. If the wiring is shorted, a characteristic burning smell will appear under the hood.

How to check a diode bridge? For this you will need an ohmmeter. Based on the properties of the diode, we connect an ohmmeter and monitor the readings. The device is connected twice, with the contacts changing. The first time it should show an infinite value (the diode is locked), the second time - a value of about several hundred Ohms (the diode is open). If this is not the case, the diode is burnt out and should be replaced. All diodes of the rectifier unit should be checked, and perhaps the entire unit should be replaced at once.

The VAZ 2109 battery light often comes on due to a break in the generator stator winding. Or it could also be a shorted winding. With the latter option, a “generator howl” is often observed - the car must be turned off immediately and the battery disconnected. The winding is checked with the same ohmmeter. It can be rewound, or the stator can be completely replaced.

A complete absence of current can also be caused by unsoldering the excitation winding from the slip rings. Due to vibrations and load, the wire loses contact with the ring, and the generator runs idle. At the same time, the slip rings themselves may also oxidize and will need to be moistened with WD. The winding can either be soldered back or the rotor can be completely replaced. It’s also worth checking the generator brushes, because they wear out over time in any case. And it is the wear of the brushes that can be responsible for the idle operation of the generator; it is because of them that one can ask the question “why is the battery light on the VAZ 2109?”

If the light on the panel is on and you hear a rough noise when you start the engine, the bearing in the generator is most likely damaged. You should not continue to operate such a generator without repair, otherwise the vibrations can completely kill an otherwise serviceable device. In addition, the shaft can completely jam.

Also read other reviews

VAZ 2110 no battery charging

Hard gas pedal VAZ 2112 16 valves

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The cable itself under the hood is normal

chuma

The day before yesterday I filled everything there with VD. It happened before too. I drove for half a day: the speed does not reset, only if you lift the pedal, it resets, XX floated from 1100 to 500 rpm. I lubricated it and it came off with my hand. My gas is light.

where did it go? where is the length adjustment?

Who doesn't know