Car : VAZ 2112. Asking : Belkin Ivan. The essence of the question : VAZ-2112 stalls at idle, what should I do?
Hello! I have the same problem starting the engine on a VAZ-2112. At one time it takes a long time to start, but then it starts with difficulty, and at another time it may start the first time and immediately stall. What could be the reason for this behavior? There is no difference whether it starts when it is cold or when it is hot.
Why does the VAZ-2112 16 valves stall at idle and not maintain speed?
Car : VAZ 2112. Asking : Belkin Ivan. The essence of the question : VAZ-2112 stalls at idle, what should I do?
Hello! I have the same problem starting the engine on a VAZ-2112. At one time it takes a long time to start, but then it starts with difficulty, and at another time it may start the first time and immediately stall. What could be the reason for this behavior? There is no difference whether it starts when it is cold or when it is hot.
Where can I buy
Spare parts and other products for the car are easily available for purchase at auto stores in your city. But there is another option that has recently received significant improvements. You no longer need to wait a long time for a parcel from China: the AliExpress online store now offers the opportunity to ship from transshipment warehouses located in various countries. For example, when ordering, you can specify the “Delivery from the Russian Federation” option.
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Stalls at idle, why?
Such a problem as: the engine stalling at idle speed can be heard quite often. And even if after some period of time the engine does start, the cause of the malfunction will have to be looked for one way or another. And the sooner the better, because there may be several of them.
The video below shows an example when a VAZ-2112 stalls at idle:
Reasons why the engine stalls
In all cases when the engine is unable to maintain idle speed, the malfunction is associated with contamination or failure of any part. The most basic elements to pay attention to:
Cleaning the throttle valve from dirt
Location of the throttle valve on a VAZ-2112 - photo of an editorial car
The origins of unstable engine operation at XX
How will the picture develop if the control unit does not receive data on the quantity and volume of air consumed? So, for example, the reaction of the throttle sensor will be as follows - the speed will initially increase, but then the fuel mixture will begin to become leaner, as a result of which low speed will be established on a hot engine. There is only one reason for this - the amount of air consumed by the engine has decreased.
However, the opposite happens - the fuel mixture becomes richer, and the engine begins to gain speed again. Such cycles can alternate endlessly; these are floating revolutions. The problem of low idle speed on a warm engine in winter is especially pressing.
On some cars, events may develop differently - the speed increases, for example, to 2000 rpm, but remains there. The reason is that the injector injects increased amounts of fuel. The amount of air does not increase, otherwise the engine would be able to increase the speed to 3 thousand, however, then it would still start to stall.
Signs and solutions to problems
Below we will look at the most common signs when a car stalls at idle.
The car starts and stalls immediately after the starter is turned off.
- When a car suddenly stalls at idle, the most common reason is that the throttle valve is dirty, causing it to become clogged and sticky. This problem is solved by simply cleaning it, using a carburetor cleaner from a bottle. This happens due to the use of low-quality fuel and the presence of large contaminants entering through the air filter (for example, oil).
This is what a dirty damper looks like.
The car starts and immediately stalls
Checking the MAF sensor readings
The cause of a malfunction with such symptoms is most often the above-mentioned sensors: IAC (idle air control), MAF (mass air flow sensor). Before purchasing new parts, you need to disassemble them and check for contamination. Also check the mass air flow sensor for the main signs of malfunction. However, if you have the opportunity to check the malfunction using diagnostic equipment, then do not deny yourself this. Read more about replacing the IAC here, and about replacing the mass air flow sensor here.
The functionality of all sensors should be checked in order, starting from the least structurally complex to the most.
Source
Causes:
- malfunction of the idle speed sensor;
- throttle valve clogged;
- malfunction of the throttle position sensor;
- contamination of the injector or carburetor
The reasons for the breakdown can be completely different, so when eliminating them you will have to operate with all sorts of actions.
You need to be able to get your car working without outside help. If your level of awareness or lack of free time does not give you the opportunity to eliminate all the defects yourself, it is better to seek help from knowledgeable people who can save you from unpleasant moments in the shortest possible time.
Why does the VAZ-2112 stall while driving?
Car : VAZ-2112. Asks : Roman Sitnikov. The essence of the issue : The car stalls while driving.
Hello! I have this problem. When I'm driving, the car suddenly stalls, and after a while it can be started again and continue on my way. At the same time, it works great when cold, no comments. But in a traffic jam, when I accelerate and brake, such situations occur, and sometimes the “check” light comes on. Tell me, please, what could be the reason?
Why does the VAZ-2112 stall while driving? We know!
There may be several reasons for such a malfunction, which have the same symptoms and different ways to eliminate them. We will tell you about the most common ones that are found on the VAZ-2112, and we will tell you how to fix them.
Throttle valve
Inspect this element for traces of carbon deposits and clean it with carburetor cleaner. To achieve the best effect, work should be carried out on a dismantled element.
Throttle position sensor
A small element attached to the throttle body is also the cause of engine failure with such symptoms on VAZ-2112 cars. The thing is that when the throttle position sensor is faulty, it is not able to transmit the command to open idle in time. Thus, the system thinks that the driver continues to press the gas pedal, making the air supply minimal. Based on this, the engine simply stalls at idle and starts again after turning the key again.
Ignition system
Pay attention to the condition of the ignition module (article on module repair here), high-voltage wires and spark plugs. If there are traces of corrosion, melting on their surface, or there are cracks on the body, this will only mean that each of the above elements will require replacement, since they cannot be repaired or corrected. In order to correctly approach the issue of choosing spark plugs for the VAZ-2112, you can read this article.
First we check the wires, and then the spark plugs.
Supply system
In this case, check all the wires coming from the battery, generator and ECU. Since even the slightest short to ground of the power wires can shut down the engine.
How to remove IAC
If signs of malfunction characteristic of the IAC are detected, then it will need to be removed (first for inspection). On the VAZ 2110, this sensor, which is small in size (easily fits in the palm of your hand), is located in a seat on the throttle body (can be seen in the photo).
If necessary, its dismantling is quite easy - it is secured with only two screws. In extremely rare cases, it is necessary to remove the entire VAZ 2110 throttle assembly.
Dismantling is carried out in the following sequence:
- The VAZ 2110 is placed on the handbrake;
- The negative terminal of the battery is disconnected;
- The wiring harness connected to the IAC is disconnected;
- Be sure to clean the connection between the sensor and the throttle body to prevent dirt and rust from getting into the hole;
- Unscrew the fastening screws holding the idle speed sensor of the VAZ 2110.
Results and conclusions
If all the above reasons do not help you, you have a chance to seek help for a professional diagnosis. Since the “check engine” pops up, it will still indicate the cause of the malfunction and it will take a lot to replace this element.
I had one where it stalled right on the road. I searched for the reason for a long time, but it turned out that I just needed to clean the mesh.
My fuel pump filter screen was clogged, it worked at idle, but didn’t want to drive.
You need to work with the throttle valve. It’s not for nothing that she’s in the first place. In most cases, the “dog is buried” in it.
Yes, nothing like that, I already changed all the sensors except the DPKV throttle and washed it twice. The spark plug wires and ignition module are new. The injectors were washed and the repair kit was changed. I don’t know what to do anymore when it’s hot (70+), the rpm drops to 400 until the engine stalls. I don’t understand why, maybe I should replace the fuel pump?
in the dpkv the resistance has probably dropped when hot, there seems to be some kind of winding there, the sensor is not expensive, tomorrow I’ll go to the store myself and replace it on the spot, above 50 degrees the check light is on, above 70 the rpm drops to 500 and below and completely stalls, the same problem after the cap . repairs happened.
The DMRV gives the same symptoms when it dies. And he dies gradually. I had 2 diagnosticians who couldn’t figure out what was wrong. The issue price is 3000 ₽.
Change the crankshaft sensor, it doesn’t see the command
I have the same reason, but when it’s cold it starts and drives, when it warms up it stalls and won’t start. The error check light is on; the throttle sensor is faulty. I bought a new one and installed it and the problem is not solved.
If the check lamp does not light up, we look for the reasons. Mesh on the fuel pump. Pressure regulator sensor in the fuel pump. Checking the pressure in the ramp. (3.4-3.6) We watch the oil being poured into the throttle valve through the small pipe from the timing ventilation. (due to a clogged oil sump under the timing cover) We look at the corrugation from the mass air flow sensor to the throttle valve. (there should be no oil, the reason is the oil seals on the pistons. Just replace them all.) We look at the crankcase ventilation tube of the internal combustion engine. (goes below from the dipstick to the timing cover, it is usually clogged below the tee of the dipstick and the pipe. During a cold start and the engine is not warmed up, condensation from the oil accumulates, then it becomes coked) We look at the IAC (we simply unscrew it, remove the negative terminal from the battery, turn on the ignition, hold the rod IAC finger, having previously inserted a plastic bag so that the rod with the spring does not fly away, use the ignition key, then use the negative terminal on the battery to check the stroke of the IAC rod. It has flown out, insert it back, with the negative terminal on the battery it will go back to the open position.) We check the corrugation for drawing in air behind the mass air flow sensor in front of the throttle. (The internal combustion engine should stall, no whistles or hisses) We check the sensors. (the first mass air flow sensor, the second air sensing sensor, there should be no pathologies in the internal combustion engine, if only a little. The IAC sensor compensates for these two sensors) Let's look at the mass. (we clean it with sandpaper, if it has oxidized, we tighten it) We look at the spark plugs for gaps, and the ignition coils for breaks. In winter, we inspect the fuel pump mesh for ice. We check the air temperature resistor in the mass air flow sensor in winter. (we take it out and look. The bead with wires must be intact and not cracked, we check the voltage) In winter, you can add kerosene to the engine oil 200 g, with a warm engine, in the morning when the temperature is -27, we start easily. (the kerosene evaporates during the trip, and keeps the liners on the crankshaft) We deceive the mass air flow sensor on the air temperature either by connecting a resistor to the wires, or by connecting a hair dryer to the corrugation in front of the filter. Good luck to everyone. And Happy New Year 2022!
Why the VAZ 2112 injector 16 valves stalls
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I have a 2112 16 valve. Everything is standard, that is, I haven’t changed/tuned/modified anything.
The car started stalling while driving, 1-2 times a day. But then it started (you only needed to crank the starter for about 3 minutes).
Then the problems started in the morning - it wouldn’t start and that’s it. On Friday it stalled at 23-00. I couldn’t start it. After 15 minutes, while I was running around looking for a tow truck, it started up and after working for 10 minutes (and having driven 2 km) it died. I pulled it home with a noose.
I went to the service in the morning. Xati started up again on its own and drove perfectly. The diagnostician said that his “smart things” found nothing. Just in case, we changed the spark plugs (well, they really asked for it for a long time).
I went home inspired. The next morning it started up perfectly (it doesn't mind frosts). I got to the store (1 km) - went out/returned - started it - drove 50 m and got up again. I abandoned the car and waited at home for an hour for the car that was supposed to take me to the service. But this “bastard” started up again on its own and drove to the service station without any signs of malfunction.
In short, diagnostics again - the result is zero. After all, it works and even the malfunction light in the engine does not light up. The diagnostician said that as soon as the car starts, call immediately, otherwise no one will help you.
Has anyone encountered this? Share - WHAT'S HAPPENING WITH HER.
I would like to note that whenever it did not start,
1) I turned off the immobolizer 2) I heard the fuel pump working 3) the starter spun perfectly, as best it could 3) the light on the engine malfunction on the side was on (that is, this is how it should be, because this indicates that power is being supplied to the system, and the light turns off when the car starts)
that when it works everything is fine
but when not, the starter drives, as if I hadn’t turned off the immobolizer.
that when it works everything is fine
but when not, the starter drives, as if I hadn’t turned off the immobolizer.
I have a 2112 16 valve. Everything is standard, that is, I haven’t changed/tuned/modified anything.
The car started stalling while driving, 1-2 times a day. But then it started (you only needed to crank the starter for about 3 minutes).
Then the problems started in the morning - it wouldn’t start and that’s it. On Friday it stalled at 23-00. I couldn’t start it. After 15 minutes, while I was running around looking for a tow truck, it started up and after working for 10 minutes (and having driven 2 km) it died. I pulled it home with a noose.
I went to the service in the morning. Xati started up again on its own and drove perfectly. The diagnostician said that his “smart things” found nothing. Just in case, we changed the spark plugs (well, they really asked for it for a long time).
I went home inspired. The next morning it started up perfectly (it doesn't mind frosts). I got to the store (1 km) - went out/returned - started it - drove 50 m and got up again. I abandoned the car and waited at home for an hour for the car that was supposed to take me to the service. But this “bastard” started up again on its own and drove to the service station without any signs of malfunction.
In short, diagnostics again - the result is zero. After all, it works and even the malfunction light in the engine does not light up. The diagnostician said that as soon as the car starts, call immediately, otherwise no one will help you.
Has anyone encountered this? Share - WHAT'S HAPPENING WITH HER.
I would like to note that whenever it did not start,
1) I turned off the immobolizer 2) I heard the fuel pump working 3) the starter spun perfectly, as best it could 3) the light on the engine malfunction on the side was on (that is, this is how it should be, because this indicates that power is being supplied to the system, and the light turns off when the car starts)
I had the same torment, I fixed it by replacing the crankshaft sensor, IAC sensor and adjusting the CO.
Source
Checking the mass air flow sensor
So, first, to check the mass air flow sensor, turn on the ignition. You need to check the voltage with a multimeter. Measure it between the contacts with the green and yellow wires. On different cars, the voltage can vary from 0.9 to 1.2 V. You can determine if the mass air flow sensor has failed by the appearance of the spark plugs - black carbon deposits indicate that it is better to replace it.