The generator belt broke and the pulley flew out. How to dress it correctly?
They don't fly off that easily. Check if it has burst. Or the key has become loose and needs a new one. Where did the bolt go, it should hold and tighten with quite a decent amount of force, buy a new bolt and try it on first, try to screw it in. If it screws in too easily, then before final screwing it is necessary to drip a fixing sealant onto the threads (there is one, like superglue). When the pulley is installed, its crown should be just under the DPKV sensor.
Well, look. If you draw a red line. Then the fifth tooth on the left should be behind it. It's like in the photo. This is a stock damper.
Damper? There is no other way to put it there. On the 8th valve there is a key that centers it. And at 16 there is a pin there.
What engine do you have?
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Even more useful tips in a convenient format
When carrying out repair work on the engine and engine-related parts, it is necessary to remove the pulley from the crankshaft, for example, to replace the pulley or to replace sealing seals in case of engine oil leakage. It would seem a simple task, but removing the pulley from the crankshaft poses difficulties and it is not so easy to remove it. Therefore, in this article we will look at how this can be done quickly.
Why is it difficult to remove the pulley?
No. 1. Depending on the engine design, make and model of the car, the difficulty of removing the pulley varies. Some machines have a lot of space to comfortably carry out repair work, while others have very little free space. The pulley design elements cover the pulley.
The structure of pulleys is also different, there are 2 types:
- ordinary;
- damper
Damper pulleys have an additional outer ring with an elastic band in their design, which absorbs vibrations and micro-vibrations.
Before you start removing the pulley, you need to loosen the tension nuts and bolts, remove the generator and power steering belt.
No. 2. In the factory assembly, the pulley is seated on the engine crankshaft, pressed with a bolt or nut and tightened with high compression force. Thus, the factory assembly is very strong. Therefore, if you have never removed the pulley, it will be more difficult to dismantle it the first time.
In addition to tightening with the maximum permissible force with a special torque wrench, during operation, the engine becomes very hot, the threaded connection is tightened even more and sticks. And external factors influence the outside, due to which the threaded connection may be subject to corrosion.
Some engine models cannot be repaired; they are disposable. These are, for example: 1AZ-FSE, 3UZ-FSE. Each power unit was examined in detail.
No. 3. If you disengage the clutch, the engine crankshaft can be freely turned with a wrench. Therefore, in order to unscrew the crankshaft pulley nut, you need to stop the shaft from turning. If, when you press the clutch, the speeds do not change, then it is not working. Air may have entered the system. In this case, you need to bleed the clutch.
Why are special technological holes made in pulleys? In auto repair shops, there is a special device for fixing the shaft, which must be bolted to the pulley and the shaft locked.
If there is no special device for fixing the shaft, which is screwed to the pulley, then you need to install good anti-roll devices under the wheels of the car and put 4th gear on the gearbox.
Or, the third option is to rest a pry bar against the flywheel teeth and fix the crankshaft from turning while unscrewing the pulley nut.
Another option is to insert a pin into the pulley hole, and install a pry bar around the pin and the second stop, as in this figure.
Removal instructions
With the clutch disengaged, the crankshaft can be easily turned with a wrench.
To carry out the removal procedure, it is necessary to secure the shaft from turning.
There are special devices that are bolted to the pulley into the technological holes, preventing the shaft from turning. If there is no such device, then you need to install supports under the wheels and place the car on the fourth. You can also secure the crankshaft flywheel by inserting a long screwdriver or pry bar between its teeth.
Removal and Installation
On a VAZ 2107, the injector crankshaft pulley is held in place by a fastening nut. Another name for it is ratchet. To remove the crankshaft pulley, you will need to unscrew this nut. It is better to carry out work on an inspection ditch or overpass. The tools you need to prepare are:
- set of keys and sockets;
- socket or socket wrench 38 (36);
Preparing tools for unscrewing
- extension;
- screwdrivers;
- mount.
If the threaded connection is difficult to unscrew, there are special products, after application of which you can easily unscrew the fasteners. These products include WD oil. You can also use vinegar essence or brake fluid.
Work on dismantling and installing the crankshaft pulley on a VAZ 2107 injector consists of the following steps:
- The car must be set to the handbrake.
- The crankshaft should be fixed by engaging 4th gear.
- After unscrewing the lock bolt and loosening the tension nut, you need to remove the generator belt.
- To get to the crankshaft you need to remove the front right wheel.
- In the upper part of the engine compartment, you need to dismantle the air filter and remove the engine mud shield.
- Next, you need to secure the crankshaft from turning using one of the methods described above.
- Before unscrewing, the nut should be tapped on all sides. Using a spanner, unscrew the crankshaft pulley mounting nut by turning it counterclockwise.
- If you cannot unscrew it manually, you can use another method. To do this, you need to put the car in neutral and remove the spark plugs. The wrench with the extension should be installed so that the end of the extension rests against the spar or floor in the direction of the shaft movement. At this time, you need to turn the ignition key to give a short impulse.
Unscrewing the nut using a starter After the nut is unscrewed, you can begin to dismantle the disk. The pulley can be removed using screwdrivers or a pry bar, prying it from different sides until it moves from the shaft. It is important to apply force closer to the shaft.
Move the pulley away from the front cover
After completing work on the VAZ 2107 injector, you need to start the engine and check its performance.
How to unscrew the crankshaft pulley
Depending on the design of the crankshaft, the pulley is attached to it either with a nut or a bolt. On rear-wheel drive vehicles, the pulley is usually secured with a nut. The engines of some rear-wheel drive cars can be started with a special crank, for which special protrusions are made for engaging the crank. This handle is also called a “crooked wrench,” and the engagement for this wrench is called a ratchet.
The pulley fastening nut is installed with a size of 36 or 38 mm on a wrench. Use a socket wrench. The key is strengthened by welding a long handle or putting on a tube to increase the “shoulder”.
How to unscrew the pulley nut:
- Place the car on a pit or overpass.
- Apply the hand parking brake.
- Turn on 4th gear at the gearbox, put chocks under the wheels.
- Do not tap too hard on the edges of the nut.
- Throw on a socket wrench, extend it with a pipe and remove the stuck nut.
If the pulley nut does not come off:
- Move the gearbox handle to neutral.
- Remove the spark plug wires from the spark plugs to prevent the engine from starting.
- Place a socket wrench on the nut and extend it with a pipe. Place the wrench in such a way that the pipe rests against the ground or the machine spar on the right side to prevent the pulley from turning clockwise.
- We make a couple of short sharp turns of the ignition key to turn on the starter. The starter will begin to rotate the flywheel, the flywheel will rotate the crankshaft, and the pulley will be secured with a key. In this case, the stuck nut usually “comes off” quickly.
The crankshaft pulley on front-wheel drive vehicles is generally secured with a bolt. To remove the crankshaft pulley of a front-wheel drive car, you must proceed in this order:
- Raise the front right side of the car with a jack. Place a trestle, stump or a pair of wheels with rims.
- Remove the wheel.
- Dismantle and remove the air filter with housing.
- Remove the protective cover.
- Loosen the belt tensioner and remove the alternator belt.
- To fix the crankshaft, you need to remove the plug in the clutch housing, then insert a pry bar into the hole and rest it between the flywheel teeth.
- Now you need to put on the socket wrench, extend it with a pipe and sharply try to turn it counterclockwise. The main thing is to remove the stuck pulley bolt.
If it is not possible to remove the bolt from its place, then we use the method of unscrewing it with a starter. This method is shown above.
Helpful advice from locksmiths who have seen a lot: use solvent or WD-40, or a similar rust preventative. After spraying it on the thread (if the pulley is secured with a nut), you need to wait 15 minutes, then try to unscrew it. If it’s a bolt, then it’s not easy to apply this product to the threads, although if you spray it around the bolt, it’s possible that liquid will pass through the micro-cracks and decarbonize the joint.
Possible faults
If it fails (beating and deformation, cracks and tears), the VAZ crankshaft pulley will most likely need to be replaced. After that, we get behind the wheel, ask the nervous neighbors in the garage to leave and start the car with a quick movement of the key. The starter should not turn for more than a split second. To do this, you need to open the clutch housing ventilation plug. To do this job correctly, you will need a torque wrench. As soon as the sensor shows a tightening torque of 400 N/meter, no further force is allowed. Don't forget to tighten the generator mounting bolts and reconnect the connector on the ignition coil.
If installed incorrectly, it may fall out, which will cause the hub to rotate. In case of lubricant leakage from under the crankshaft oil seal. When removing the crankshaft - for repair work, changing bearings, etc.
The complexity of this operation lies in the difficulty of dismantling and the problematic installation of new cuffs, instead of worn rubber bands, which become deformed over time and no longer perform their functions. In the manual for VAZ cars, this operation is described very concisely, since the algorithm itself is simple and should be easily implemented. The pulley we need is located under the hood of the car, where there is not much space. Usually this part is located behind the generator, near the body elements. We hope our tips will be useful and you can easily disconnect the crankshaft pulley.
For what? So that he doesn't accidentally get out. If unscrewing occurs, you will face serious damage and expensive repairs. As the motor operates, the tightening force gradually increases.
To remove it, you need to get under the car and try to unscrew the element with a wrench and extension. All materials on the site CARNOVATO.RU were written specifically for this web resource and are the intellectual property of the administrator.
The location of the pulley in the engine compartment is inconvenient for work. It is hidden behind the generator and access to it is limited by elements of the body structure. During engine operation, the right-hand mounting thread further strengthens the clamping force. In the absence of such devices, this problem can be solved by installing reliable stops under the wheels and setting the 4th speed of the manual transmission.
Damage to the ring gear leads to unstable operation of the motor. If the movements are small, then the ECU does not display an error on the instrument panel, but at the same time the engine at idle is unstable and “troits.” However, in a 16-valve engine, assessing the position of the mark through the box window is extremely inconvenient. Using the depth gauge, set TDC (accuracy of about 10 degrees) and check the coincidence with the marks on the camshaft.
The described fasteners increase their tightening level independently when the engine is running. And the final “indestructibility” of the bolt is given by the phenomena of coking, sticking, and corrosion.
Removing a pulley is a difficulty in itself, even for a specialist, let alone a beginner.
What to do if the nut does not budge? The nut should come off easily on the first try.
It is better to do the work above the inspection hole. If this is not possible, then it is better to use a jack and definitely a tree stump (better to be safe). When the requirements are met, it is necessary to turn the ignition key to give short-term pulses. Sometimes the nut fits so tightly that you can’t get it off the first time.
It is better to do the work above the inspection hole. The crankshaft should be secured by placing the gearbox in 4th gear and applying the parking brake. Don't forget to loosen and remove the alternator belt.
It is done independently without the presence of an assistant. To prevent the engine from starting, you can remove the fuel supply hose from the fuel pump to the carburetor if it is a carburetor engine, or the hose entering the fuel rail if the engine is injection.
Despite the fact that this method, as they say, “the Ministry of Health does not recommend,” I still advise you not to look for complicated ways, but to do the following. Remove any terminal from the battery. This will eliminate the risk of accidentally turning on the starter. After this, your assistant gets behind the wheel, engages 4th gear, and, without pressing the clutch, presses on the brake.
Pulley removal
Unscrewing a fastening bolt or nut is only half the battle. Next you need to pull the pulley out of the shaft. The pulley cannot be removed easily by hand unless its seat is broken. In addition, if the pulley fits tightly onto the shaft, it is also secured against turning by a key.
There are special pullers for removing the pulley from the shaft. There are mechanical and hydraulic pullers.
The design of a mechanical puller is simple. Usually it has three legs, with which you need to hook the pulley itself, and rest the central rod against the shaft. After which, you need to rotate the rod, the legs will straighten and pull the pulley towards you. There are even simpler pullers that you can make yourself.
If there is no removable device for the pulley, then you can use pry bars. If one person is filming, then take turns, moving it a little on each side so that there is no distortion. If there are two, then at the same time, from different sides, the pulley is pressed out from the crankshaft with a sharp movement.
It also happens that when using a puller, the walls of the pulley grooves cannot withstand and break off. Therefore, when using pry bars, they must be engaged as close to the shaft as possible.
How to remove the crankshaft gear of a VAZ 2110
Removing the gear is easy when the crankshaft is removed from the engine. To simplify the removal process, a special puller is needed.
It is important to know that you need to remove it after the engine has cooled down.
- You need to install the puller on the gear and rotate the rod. After a few scrolls it will start to come out.
- Carefully remove the gear, removing the key.
- Carefully examine the groove on the crankshaft.
To install the crankshaft gear, you need a metal pipe that can be placed on the shaft. Put on the key, push the gear a little and put the steel tube on the shaft so that it rests on the gear. Now, in order to return the gear to its original place, you need to knock on the pipe with a hammer. You can change some parts yourself, but you need to understand that even a minor mistake can lead to serious consequences.
Video
This video contains useful tips on how to unscrew the nut securing the pulley to the crankshaft of a car engine.
An option for unscrewing the crankshaft pulley bolt using a poly V-belt.
How to remove the crankshaft pulley on a VAZ (2108, 2109, 21099, 2110, 2111, 2112, 2113, 2114, 2115).
How to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt. Bolted connection.
How to tighten a crankshaft pulley very quickly.
Removes the crankshaft pulley on a Honda car without a special key.
≡ 4 November 2015 Category: Repair
Replacing the crankshaft oil seal 4 G93 - stage 2.
Next, one holds it with emphasis against, and the other turns out the pulley (damper) bolt.
11. But, unfortunately, no matter how carefully the owner treats his VAZ 2110, sooner or later the time for physical wear comes for the liners - they need replacement. The only exception is if it is replaced with a new one. At the same time, an experienced craftsman can turn the crankshaft into a lightweight one. When reassembling, please note that the groove on the hub must be aligned with the segment key.
Replacing the generator drive pulley on front-wheel drive VAZ and Lada cars
The generator drive pulley changes in the same way on cars of the “tenth series” (VAZ 2110, 2111 and 2112), the “Samara” series (VAZ 2113, 2114 and 2115), as well as the “new” models of Lada Kalina, Priora and Grant.
The generator drive pulley is located on the “toe” of the engine crankshaft on the side of the first cylinder (right wheel) and drives the generator and, if equipped, air conditioning and power steering using a belt.
The main reasons for replacing a pulley are damage to the ring gear or delamination of the pulley itself.
Damage to the ring gear leads to unstable operation of the motor. If the teeth are broken, the car may not start because the crankshaft sensor (CSS) cannot determine the top dead center (TDC) for the ignition count.
Delamination occurs on damper pulleys (not cast iron). The fact is that on these pulleys the outer part is attached to the central part through a rubber spacer. It acts as a vibration damper (anti-resonance) on the engine crankshaft. It happens that the outer race rotates a little. Then the toothed pulley moves relative to the dead center and, as a result, the car becomes “sluggish” during acceleration, and the idle speed becomes unstable. If the pulley is too misaligned, the car cannot be started. Also, the car will not start with the upper race completely peeled off from the central part of the pulley.
Such damage is easily diagnosed by the lack of rotation of the alternator belt.
In rare cases, the seat key on the shaft breaks, and the pulley begins to vibrate and rotate. If the movements are small, then the ECU does not display an error on the instrument panel, but at the same time the engine at idle is unstable and “troits.”
Checking the condition of the pulley is quite easy. To do this, you need to inspect the condition of the ring gear for chips and cracks. The ring gear is located on the outer race closer to the engine (indicated by an arrow) and is clearly visible from above:
After this, you need to set the first cylinder to TDC. To do this, in an 8-valve engine, remove the rubber plug on the gearbox and ensure that the mark on the flywheel aligns with the slot on the plate:
You can check by the mark on the camshaft. To get to the mark, you need to unscrew the plastic protective cover. Fasten with three “10” bolts (two are shown in the photo, the bottom one under the hose from the end of the casing):
After unscrewing the casing, pull it up. There is a mark on the camshaft pulley (right arrow). We combine it with the protrusion of the metal plate (left arrow).
It is more convenient to turn the engine by placing the car in 4th or 5th gear and pushing in one direction. You can turn it using the bolt on the crankshaft pulley, but then you will have to remove the plastic mudguard behind the wheel.
In a 16-valve engine, it is necessary to remove the plastic protective timing cover. It is secured with 5 screws using a 5mm hex key. The article describes in detail the replacement of the phase sensor on Lada Kalina, Priora and Granta cars (16 valves).
Align the marks on the camshaft pulleys with the marks on the casing.
We make sure that the DKV looks at the beginning of the 20th tooth from the two missing ones. Often the teeth become misaligned due to the timing belt jumping. This can only be checked by aligning the marks on the flywheel with the marks on the camshaft or aligning the mark on the timing sprocket on the crankshaft (you will have to remove the pulley).
However, in a 16-valve engine, assessing the position of the mark through the box window is extremely inconvenient. It is much more convenient to unscrew the spark plug of the first cylinder and lower a depth gauge or a long screwdriver into the window. Using the depth gauge, set TDC (accuracy of about 10 degrees) and check the coincidence with the marks on the camshaft. If the marks coincide, and the DKV is not looking at the 20th tooth, then the problem is in the pulley. If not, then the belt has jumped or a key on the crankshaft has been cut off. In any case, the generator drive pulley must be removed to check or further align the timing belt.
Lada 2109 › Logbook › 17. Replacing the damper pulley and crankshaft gear
Let me briefly remind you of what I wrote in the last entry. It's been 2 days since I replaced the timing belt and the car refused to drive at speeds above 2000 rpm. More precisely, it drove, but when the revolutions rose above 2000, it began to twitch and did not drive at all. The bortovik showed an error - incorrect DPKV signal. On the side of the road, I checked the DPKV chip and wires (at one time they were blowing my mind!) I realized that something was wrong here and decided to leave it as is until the morning. In the morning I decided to check my favorite sore! Crankshaft gear pin! And how he looked into the water! Once again it was torn off. More precisely, it broke halfway, but due to the fact that I also drove a self-tapping screw there, to be sure, the damper pulley did not turn due to this.
Signs of malfunction and replacement of the crankshaft position sensor on a VAZ 2114
First, let's look at what a crankshaft position sensor is. The crankshaft position sensor of the VAZ 2114, like many other VAZ models, is an electromagnetic device that transmits information about the position of the crankshaft to the electronic “brains” of engine control. This sensor is very important; the correct operation of the fuel injectors and the ignition system depends on it. It doesn't break down often. But if you are going on a long trip, it is advisable to have a spare one.
Crankshaft position sensor VAZ 2114
Method 1
The first step is to try to remove the pulley bolt using the standard method. The set of tools for this procedure is as follows: heads, spanners, jack. The step-by-step removal process looks like this:
- Unscrew the right wheel and jack up the car;
- Remove the plastic protection (if any);
- Loosen the generator belt tension bolt and remove it;
- Reach the pulley and lock it in one position;
- Remove the timing belt;
- Place a socket or a 19mm spanner on the pulley nut and try to tear it off;
- If the fastening does not work, treat the nut with WD-40 or tap the pulley with a wooden block. Often this allows you to get rid of sticking.
Sensor types
Sensors differ in operating principle and design features.
- inductive type. Inside there is a metal rod with a magnet at the outer end. It is designed to magnetize the rod. A winding of copper wire is wound around this rod, the ends of which are brought out in the form of connectors for connecting wires. The operating principle of the inductive type crankshaft position sensor: when a steel object is located next to the rod, a signal appears at the terminals.
- The operating principle of the next type of crankshaft sensor is slightly different. It has a hall sensor inside. When a metal object is brought close to it, its state changes (from logical zero to one and vice versa).
- frequency Let's look at how this type of crankshaft sensor works. The engine control unit generates pulses of a certain frequency. They are fed to the sensor and when a metal object is brought to the sensor, the generation frequency changes. By changing the frequency, the controller determines the presence of an object near the sensor. The sensor reacts to the metal of the crankshaft ring teeth (on some cars it is located on the flywheel).
Method 3
The stuck crankshaft pulley of the VAZ 2114 can be removed with some effort. Even an additional lever in the form of a pipe does not always help to remove the nut. In such a situation, you can resort to a rather tricky option for removing the spare part - using a starter. Because a working starter drives the flywheel and the pulley itself - its force can be useful for sharply unscrewing the fastener. Step-by-step instructions for removing a part in this way are simple:
- After dismantling the generator and timing belts, proceed to securely fix the nut with a wrench without blocking the pulley;
- The photo below shows one type of reliable fixation;
- Move the gearbox to neutral;
- For safety, remove the high-voltage wires from the spark plugs;
- Move into the car interior and sharply turn the key in the ignition a couple of times;
- Cranking the starter will cause the nut to loosen.
Before carrying out work, we also recommend treating the contact surface of the nut with a special lubricant. After this procedure, all fasteners can be unscrewed with ease.
Having torn off the nut, remove the part and carry out the necessary manipulations. When reinstalling the spare part, it is not necessary to tighten the nut with great force.
The only difficulty that arises when carrying out such a procedure: souring of the thread. Treatment with chemical lubricants only partially solves the problem, so when dismantling, use great force to successfully unscrew it.
Source
Symptoms of a problem
Signs of a malfunction of the DPKV can be different. Often, dirt adheres to the end of the sensor itself, which can interfere with reading. Also, symptoms of a faulty crankshaft sensor may be as follows:
- The idle mode is unstable;
- Engine speed rises or falls spontaneously;
- Power drops;
- During acceleration, a “failure” is felt;
- The car doesn't start well.
In these cases, for the most part, the VAZ 2114 crankshaft position sensor is replaced.
In addition, the VAZ 2114 crankshaft sensor may well be in good working order. And on the “tidy” the DPKV error will appear (0335 or 0336). The reason for this may be a broken wire near the connector. This is easily determined visually; then it is enough to replace the connector without replacing the sensor itself.
If the owner notices signs of a malfunction of the crankshaft sensor on his car, then this is a “signal” about the need for diagnostics.
It’s not difficult to guess where the crankshaft sensor is located on a VAZ 2114 . Like many other VAZ models, it is attached to the engine, and more specifically to the oil pump, near the generator drive pulley, on its cover. The sensor is attached with one bolt, which is typical for many models of this family.
Here is the crankshaft sensor on the VAZ 2114
Typical causes of failure:
- Physical damage to the case;
- The interturn closure of the winding turns entails a change in the generation frequency transmitted to the control unit (frequency type sensors);
- Emergency wear or loss of pulley teeth.
I couldn’t get the crankshaft pulley off, what should I do?
If you succeed in breaking the fastening, unscrewing the nut completely is not difficult. But this doesn't always happen. In case of negative circumstances, use a different technique:
- Put the car in neutral.
- Remove the caps (installed on the spark plugs). This is done to avoid accidental starting of the motor.
- Throw the wrench onto the pulley nut, then press the edge of the lever into the spar (ground). The main goal in this case is to prevent the pulley from spinning.
- Turn the starter briefly to give the required impulse. Typically, one or two turns is enough to remove the nut. Then you can continue working using the key.
Functionality check
If you decide to check the serviceability of the sensor yourself, treat this procedure responsibly and carry it out correctly. On a VAZ 2114 car, the crankshaft sensor is checked in several ways.
- Using a multimeter. The serviceability of the induction sensor can be assessed by the resistance of its coil. In a working product it is 500-700 Ohms.
- On the multimeter, set the measurement limit to 200 millivolts, connect the probes to the terminals (where the standard wires are connected). Pass a steel object several times in front of the core. The working sensor will “see” the metal and there will be voltage spikes on the multimeter display. If there are none, replace the part.
- But the most accurate results when checking are provided by an oscilloscope. When using this device, one hundred percent results can be guaranteed; it reads all the information from the sensor while the engine is running. It can be observed on the device screen. The engine, during tests, should operate at different speeds. They start with eight hundred revolutions, then two thousand, and raise it to six thousand. If the lines (on the device screen) are of different lengths, you need to look for the cause of the malfunction. Remove dirt, check the pulley for defects, and so on.
Oscillogram of a working sensor
Oscillogram of a working VAZ 2114 crankshaft sensor
It should be noted that these verification methods work on all VAZ models with DPKV. If you have any doubts about your own abilities, then contact the service. Thanks to specialized equipment, the result will be more accurate, and the check will not take much time.
Remove from the engine
The malfunction has been identified. Let's start eliminating it. Let's look at this operation using the VAZ 2114 as an example.
Reasons for removing the crankshaft
As a rule, it is necessary to dismantle the crankshaft pulley of a VAZ 2114 in three main cases:
- When replacing shaft seals (you can tell that it’s time to change them by oil leaks at their locations).
- For a number of repairs related to the gas distribution mechanism (for example, when replacing a belt).
- When replacing the pulley itself (however, it is quite rare to remove it for this very reason, because serious wear of the pulley is an infrequent occurrence).
But, be that as it may, it’s quite difficult to remove the pulley correctly for the first time without breaking or losing anything. This is caused by a number of inconveniences, for example, the hard-to-reach location of this part, which causes significant difficulty in unscrewing the fasteners (a long socket wrench or a socket with a large extension is most suitable for this operation).
Crankshaft bolt VAZ 2114
In addition, the pulley threads are tightened at the factory using mechanical impact wrenches with the maximum permissible force in order to prevent spontaneous unwinding. For obvious reasons, it is unlikely that such fasteners can be easily unscrewed “by hand” (in addition, the right-hand thread during engine operation works in the direction of tightening, further aggravating this situation).
When starting to dismantle the crankshaft pulley, be sure to stock up on WD-40 or kerosene - without them, this operation may end in failure.
Crankshaft position sensor: principle of operation, types
DPKV is a small electronic device located near the pulley under the hood, which performs a critical function: by transmitting an impulse of the crankshaft position to the engine, the sensor coordinates the movement of the injectors, which directly affects the fuel supply, which, in turn, determines the operation of the ignition system. You need to monitor the condition of the sensor regularly, especially if you have planned a long trip.
Sensors are divided into two types, each of which has its own operating principle:
- Inductive. It consists of a magnet and a metal rod wrapped with copper wire. The inductive sensor gives a signal by reacting to the approach of a steel object, that is, the crankshaft.
- Impulsive. The sensor consists of a hall, which changes its position when a metal object approaches it. Due to this, impulses arise, which are then sent to the power unit and determine the operation of the ignition system.
What problems might you encounter?
There is a possibility that you may not immediately notice the characteristic disc part under the hood of your car. It may also be difficult to access. It will be difficult to fix the shaft. Over a long period of time, the joints of fasteners will “stick” and you will have to use special liquids.
Related article: How to replace a timing chain in a garage
To perform all the necessary steps step by step, you will need the following tools:
- impact wrench;
- puller set;
- jack;
- a set of wrenches or other tools for removing bolts;
- presence of an inspection hole.
Signs of breakdown
You can determine that the sensor has failed by the following signs:
- Idling malfunctions, instability in engine operation is observed;
- The engine loses power;
- The engine accelerates chaotically or, conversely, slows down;
- Heavy plant;
- During high-speed movement and, especially during acceleration, dips are observed.
The main malfunctions may be the following:
- Mechanical deformation;
- Broken wires or shorted wires (this problem is especially common in used cars);
- Wear of the pulley and other parts.
Repairing the sensor is difficult and almost impossible at home. But replacement is not difficult, and it is not that expensive. Let's now find out how to replace the sensor on a VAZ-2014.
Purpose
The crankshaft pulley serves to transmit rotation from the crankshaft to such important vehicle components as the generator, power steering and air conditioning. In addition to this function, in the injection engine there are special teeth on the damper-type pulley, which are read by the crankshaft sensor.
This is one of the most important indicators for the electronic motor control system, which is responsible for the correct operation of the entire unit.
If it fails (beating and deformation, cracks and tears), the VAZ crankshaft pulley will most likely need to be replaced. This part of the car can be repaired, but in very rare cases (if minor defects are detected).
It is not necessary to go to a specialized car workshop; if you have free time and skillful hands, you can do the replacement yourself, which will not only save money, but also increase your self-esteem.
Step-by-step instructions for replacing the sensor
If you strictly follow the instructions, the replacement procedure usually does not take much time.
- First of all, to make further work safe, turn off the ignition and raise the hood.
- We find the device and, if it is covered with dust and dirt, which is observed quite often in the practice of motorists, be sure to use a rag to clean both the sensor and its installation location, so that when installing a new device, there is no short circuit in the wires.
- Now we have access to the device. A positive point is the ease of removing the sensor, which cannot be said about other parts. But here it is very important to observe the subordination of actions: first, by bending the fasteners, remove the block and wires, then, after unscrewing the bolt, carefully, slowly, remove the DPKV
- Just in case, it is worth diagnosing the condition of the pulley; toothed parts are often deformed, which also causes a disruption in the fuel supply system and leads to errors in the data transmitted by the sensor, which can already be dangerous.
- We check that the installation site of the new part is clean.
- We mount the sensor.
Installation is carried out in the reverse order of dismantling: tighten the bolt, fasten the block, start the engine, check the sensor data.
An important point during installation is to maintain the required gap, which should not exceed 1 mm. If the gap is too large, you should select a device of the appropriate size: do not try to fix the DPKV of the wrong type, as this connivance can lead to negative consequences.
Dismantling and replacement
Regardless of the design, where the part is located, it is important to remove and install it in the same order. Depending on the location of the motor, the part is located in the front part behind the cooling radiator. But if the motor is placed across the engine compartment, then your hand will not reach the part. Because to remove the crankshaft pulley, you need to remove the right wheel. If it is difficult to change, it makes sense to pay attention to the drawing, the work will speed up.
The vehicle is rolled onto the inspection hole and secured so that the car does not move from its place. To get there and remove the structure, you need to unscrew all the parts that impede access (air filter, mud flaps, etc.). Remove the generator belt. Next, open the clutch block plug and insert a pry bar into the hole to lock the flywheel.
The elements of the part are characterized by strong fixation, so they are not easy to remove. To turn a part, it is necessary to make a lot of effort. If dismantling is performed for the first time, it will be difficult to unscrew the crankshaft pulley. The reason is that factory production is characterized by strong tightening of the component parts.
Important! The right screw pattern means that the unscrewing process occurs counterclockwise. The car part spins in the other direction, so if it has oxidized, it is not so easy to disassemble it; it is useful to use additional means.
How to unscrew the crankshaft pulley nut
When turning fasteners, it is important to follow the recommendations, then the process will take at least 15 minutes. The effort should be applied as close to the camshaft as possible:
- use a pry bar to pry it up from all sides;
- If necessary, use a special universal crankshaft pulley puller for this part.
The device is presented in the form of a hairpin with 2-3 grips. The end of the gripper is secured to the edges of the part, and the end of the pin is placed in the middle of the shaft.
Scroll clockwise. But not all brands of cars turn clockwise; in some cars, the work must be done in the opposite direction. In this case, it is important to put your gear lever in 4th speed and turn on the handbrake.
If you can’t turn it, the lever should be in the neutral position. The next step is to remove the candlesticks. The key is placed on the floor or on the rear side member and turned in the direction of movement of the device.
All maneuvers make it easier to scroll, so further actions must be performed manually; if necessary, lubricate with brake fluid or WD grease. In addition, tapping the edges of the head can make your work easier.
How to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt
To do the job efficiently, the disassembled machine is placed on a stump. The pin holds the part together and is usually found in front-wheel drive automatic cars. The thread is designed in such a way that it is tightened during the torque when moving.
It is necessary to perform actions that open access to the base. To do this, it is important to stop the rotation well. A mount is used as a fixation. The tool is inserted into the flywheel gears. It must be adjusted securely so that it does not fall out during the turning process. Therefore, it is better to do the work with an assistant. Next, put a socket head of the same diameter as the pin onto the pin, attach a lever and an extension (a piece of durable pipe). After this they begin to slowly unscrew it.
Important! The longer the extension, the easier it is to unwind.
People's automobile experience
The difficulty of dismantling lies in the specially selected strong connection, without play. The fasteners are tightly screwed. They practice using a pry bar, while slowly pressing on the back surface of the part.
We recommend: How to replace and remove the fuel pump on a Lada Kalina with your own hands?
When purchasing a part, you must have new fasteners. You will need a front oil seal and suspension belts. When purchasing, you need to pay attention to the grooves and marks. They must be free of defects. Otherwise, after a while you need to replace everything with a new one.
Important! When performing work, you need to pay attention to the crankcase ventilation system. If contaminated, under the influence of excess pressure, the oil seal will leak lubricant. When screwing, you need patience and, as a rule, you can achieve results after 3-4 attempts.
Installing the pulley on the crankshaft
To properly install the crankshaft pulley, it is necessary to lubricate it with grease or other viscous agent. This will make the fastener installation process easier. To put it on, tilt the washer slightly to the side and pull it onto the base. Next, you can use a tapping motion with a hammer to process the hub through a soft rubber gasket. Then, in the reverse order, you need to tighten the other parts of the car.
Important! If you do not fit it tightly into the groove, then everything will hang out, so you will need to replace it with a new one soon.
How to check for sensor malfunction with the device?
Despite the fact that a sensor malfunction is usually determined by the above symptoms, this may not be enough for a correct diagnosis, since different types of breakdowns have the same symptoms. Dips during acceleration can also occur when other parts are deformed, such as the ignition system or braking system, and this also occurs when the engine itself malfunctions.
You can definitely check the sensor using the following method:
We buy a voltmeter (it’s easy to find in any car store) or a multimeter, which is even better. On the multimeter we turn on the voltmeter function, measuring 200 mV. Now we connect the probes to the sensor. And then the most interesting thing: take any screwdriver (necessarily with a metal rod) and hold the screwdriver close to the sensor. The data on the voltmeter will change, monitor its data: if the device shows 0.3 V, then the device is working properly; If the readings fluctuate, replace the sensor without a doubt.
Necessary tool
When disassembling an engine or partially replacing its components, it is often necessary to unscrew this element. Rare dismantling of this unit leads to the fact that over time the fastening bolt turns sour. In such a situation, you can decide on one of the ways to unscrew the fastener. To carry out the work you will need a set of tools.
Quick removal of the VAZ 2114 crankshaft pulley is only possible if you have the following tools:
- Jack for raising the car;
- Wheel chocks (bricks, boards, etc.) for securely securing the vehicle;
- Mount as a lever;
- Set of keys and heads: 17, 19, 13 and 10.
It is better to carry out dismantling work on a lift or pit. If this is not possible, ensure that the vehicle is supported by one jack. In addition to the set of tools listed, a lubricant such as WD-40 will not be superfluous. When you start work, treat the fastening and after 10-15 minutes proceed with removal.
Dismantling may be necessary when replacing the timing belt or oil seal. Such work cannot be done without removing this part. Rarely does a pulley need to be replaced. Even though this part is made of metal, it also deforms over time, causing problems with the crankshaft position sensor.
There are quite a few options for unscrewing the pulley, but in this article we will look at three main methods of dismantling.
Classic methods
Essentially, standard dismantling methods involve two main methods.
You will need:
- jack to remove the wheel
- tool kit
- hydraulic jack to lift the engine, or replacing it with a “stump”
First way
In the first case, we will have to make significant physical efforts, therefore, you need to clearly focus on your own strength. We are talking about the need to put stones or special stops under the wheels that would not allow them to move during operation. The gearbox should, if possible, be set to maximum gear. The higher it is, the easier it will be for you to cope with the task. In third and lower gears, it will be almost impossible to make a turn with your hands. But everything is unscrewed by hand. To make this task easier for yourself, it is appropriate to use a lever that will reduce the necessary effort. In some cases, the length of the lever can reach one and a half meters.
Getting to the bolt is not always easy
Second way
As for the second method, it involves placing the vehicle in neutral gear. Next, you need to install a suitable sized head on the bolt with a piece of pipe, which, in turn, rests on asphalt or concrete. Ordinary soil will not be able to hold it. But the bolt itself is already loosened by the starter.
This saves a lot of effort and makes it possible to complete the task the first time. The main thing is to take into account the reliable fixation of the pipe so that it does not jump out and damage anything around it.
Be careful not to lose the pulley key
But, in any case, the threads in this nut are correct, so you need to unscrew it counterclockwise, with some exceptions, which we will now look at.