The starter does not work after turning the ignition key

Cars use electric fans to blow air over the radiator of the cooling system. The fan is an impeller driven by a DC electric motor mounted in a round or square frame. The activation of the electric fan is fully automatic and depends on the temperature of the coolant in the radiator. Fluid temperature data is taken from a sensor installed in the side compartment of the radiator. The sensor is a simple microswitch whose contacts are normally open. They close when a certain temperature is reached.

To connect an electric fan, you can use two circuits: relay and relayless. The difference between these schemes is clear from the name. The relayless circuit consists of a temperature sensor, fan, fuse, and connecting wires. The positive terminal of the electric fan is connected through a fuse to the positive terminal of the battery. The negative terminal of the fan is connected to any terminal of the temperature sensor; the polarity of the connection does not matter. The second terminal of the sensor must be connected to the car body. This is the simplest switching scheme and does not require much time to implement.

The relay circuit contains an electromechanical relay. The good thing is that the high current is removed from the sensor to the relay. The positive terminal of the fan is connected through a fuse to the battery, the negative terminal to the body. The negative wire must be cut and the resulting two wires connected to the normally open contacts of the relay. By default, our fan is turned off. One terminal of the relay coil must be powered from the battery positive through a fuse, or from the ignition switch. The second output of the coil should be applied to the first contact of the temperature sensor, and a wire connected to the body should be mounted from the second contact. Check in advance to see if the relay has a diode connected in parallel with the coil. If available, it is important to observe the polarity of the winding power supply.

Another useful modification for the fan switching circuit is a button installed in the car interior. The temperature sensor can fail at the most inopportune moment, so the button will be useful in emergency situations. Both when using the first scheme and when using the second, you need to connect the normally open contacts of the button to the temperature sensor. It’s easier this way, but if you use the first scheme, it turns out that there will be a large current on the button, and this can cause the button contacts to burn and the case to melt. Therefore, it is best to use the button in combination with an electromagnetic relay.

There are two ways to connect power supplies: series and parallel. With the first, the total voltage increases, and with the second, the capacitance increases. The increase occurs a number of times equal to the number of sources.

Instructions

Make sure both batteries are the same, equally worn, and charged to the same degree. If this is not the case, avoid connecting them in series or parallel.

To connect two batteries in series, connect the negative terminal of the first battery to the positive terminal of the second. Do not connect the terminals that remain free (the positive pole of the first and the negative pole of the second) to each other under any circumstances, otherwise a short circuit will occur. Remove the tension from them, which has doubled.

To connect two batteries in parallel, take two diodes that can withstand the load current for an unlimited period. Connect the negative poles of the batteries together. Connect the positive pole of one of the batteries to the anode of the first diode, the other - to the anode of the second diode. Connect the cathodes of the diodes together. Connect the load with the negative pole to the connection point of the batteries' minuses, and the positive pole to the connection point of the cathodes of the diodes. This design will deliver the same current twice as long as a single battery. But you cannot load it with twice the current, since only one of the diodes is always open.

It is not recommended to connect batteries in parallel without diodes, since they will discharge through each other. Do this only if you are absolutely sure that they are equally charged and worn out. But with such a design you can extract twice as much current.

Before charging batteries, disassemble the structure. Charge them separately. This will significantly slow down battery wear. If the batteries are connected in parallel using diodes, it will be completely impossible to charge them without disassembling the structure.

Sources:

• battery connection

Troubles in the cooling system are the most dangerous. Without monitoring the fluid temperature, you can leave the engine without cooling. The result is a major overhaul, since the engine will simply jam. Therefore, you need to detect the malfunction in time and try to eliminate it.

The cooling system on both the VAZ 2107 and the VAZ 2109 has the same design. The only significant difference is the type, since the nines use a sealed system. The expansion tank has a plug with two valves. The inlet is triggered when the pressure drops to 0.13 atmospheres, and the exhaust is triggered when it reaches 1.2-1.3 atmospheres. On early VAZ models, the coolant is not under such high pressure. Due to the increase in pressure in the cooling system, antifreeze (or antifreeze) has a higher boiling point.

Troubleshooting

The most common breakdown in all cars is the thermostat. A sign of thermostat failure is boiling of the coolant even when driving at high speed, when there seems to be good airflow to the radiator. The reason lies in the fact that a thermostat is necessary to switch the liquid circulation between large and small cooling circles. When VAZ thermostats fail, they leave a small circle on. And this is the entire system, except for the main radiator. Hence the excessive heating.

The second most popular failure is the failure of the pump (liquid pump). There is practically nothing to break in it, but often the oil seal through which the coolant leaks out is destroyed. Sometimes the bearing wears out and it begins to make a terrible whistling and grinding noise. These are the main malfunctions of the pump; they can be determined by hearing and sight. True, sometimes the bearing is destroyed so that it does not make sounds, but axial play appears.

The electric fan is the third most popular component in which a breakdown may occur. Sometimes it stops working due to the failure of the temperature sensor responsible for turning it on. But often the cause of the malfunction is electrical wiring. On nines, for example, a simple fan circuit is used. Fuse, sensor and fan itself. The sensor is connected to ground and to the fan. So the wire that goes to the body is quite long and runs throughout the entire engine compartment. The slightest break and the fan fails.

Quick Repair Methods

If the thermostat has died for a long time on a long journey, then first try knocking on its body. Sometimes, after exposure, the valve opens, but expect it to jam again soon. The best option is to drain the fluid and try to break through the thermostat to turn on the big circle. And if suddenly there is a new one or a working one in the glove compartment, then install it.

It’s more difficult with a pump on the road; it will be easier to add water as needed. But this is only if the leak is not very large. Having reached the place where repairs can be carried out, it needs to be replaced. On sevens this is done quite quickly, you just need to drain the liquid, loosen the fan belt and remove the old pump. And on nines you will have to remove the casing that covers the timing block, loosen the belt, and only then use a 10mm wrench to unscrew the three bolts securing the pump.

But with a fan everything is simpler. If there is a breakdown in the sensor, then the easiest option is to short-circuit its contacts. In this case, the fan will work constantly, so after stopping the engine, be sure to turn it off, as the battery will run out. If the problem is in the wiring, then the best way to get out of this situation is to connect a fan to the battery. But if the electric motor winding burns out, then only a complete replacement will help.

Sources:

• Description of the VAZ 2107 cooling system
• Typical failures in the cooling system in 2017

The engine cooling system is one of the important parts of the car. It not only cools the engine, but also heats the car interior in winter. And to carry out maintenance and repair, you simply need to know the composition of the system and the general principle of its operation.

The first copies of VAZ 2110 cars were practically a copy of the nines. The only difference is in the body, but the engine and gearbox are similar. But carburetors were replaced by an injection system, and a lot has changed in the car, including the cooling system. Constant modernization makes itself felt, the car becomes more reliable, but more difficult to maintain. Of course, increasing engine power entails a lot of modifications. Changes occur in the braking system, lubrication and cooling systems. But the operating principle remains virtually unchanged.

Power drop on a VAZ carburetor engine

To begin with, let's take VAZ cars with a carburetor power system and an 8-valve timing system - VAZ-2109, VAZ-2110, VAZ-2114, VAZ-2115.

The same power plant is installed on these cars, so the reasons are identical.

Let's go through those components, due to malfunction of which a drop in dynamics may occur.

In general, the main reason that the engine does not pull is a change in the processes in the combustion chambers - a mismatch in the proportions of the air-fuel mixture, the combustion process is disrupted, the filling of the cylinders and the removal of exhaust gases does not occur as required.

Supply system

Very often, a drop in traction occurs due to the power system. Structurally, the carburetor fuel system used on cars from VAZ-2109 to VAZ-2115 is very simple and is almost completely mechanical, so identifying the cause is not particularly difficult.

A decrease in power can occur due to:

• Severely clogged fuel filter (its throughput drops and the pump is simply not able to pump the required amount of fuel);
• Contamination of the carburetor channels (the jets and fuel channels in this element have a small cross-section and debris often clogs them);

• There is air leakage in the area from the tank to the pump (because of this, the performance of the fuel pump drops sharply);
• Damage to the fuel pump membrane (a small crack in it leads to the fact that the vacuum required for pumping fuel is not created in the pump chambers);
• The fastening of the carburetor or intake manifold is loose (due to this, air leaks around the carburetor and the proportion of the air-fuel mixture is greatly disturbed);
• The hole in the fuel tank cap is clogged (because of this, a vacuum is created in the tank and it is much more difficult for the gas pump to pump gasoline out of it);

In addition to the elements responsible for supplying fuel, a drop in power also occurs due to severe contamination of the air filter element.

Ignition system

This system also takes part in the combustion of the mixture, which means a failure in its operation can affect power.

In carburetor engines VAZ-2110 and others, a decrease in traction can occur due to:

• Faulty spark plugs or changes in their thermal gap;
• Excessive wear of the contacts and the central electrode of the distributor;
• Voltage losses in high-voltage wires;
• Violations of the ignition timing.

Irregularities in the power supply and ignition systems most often cause a drop in power, so testing to identify the cause should begin with them.

If the operation of these systems does not raise suspicions, other components of the engine should be diagnosed.

Exhaust system, timing belt and crankshaft

Loss of traction can also occur due to the exhaust gas removal system, although problems with it rarely occur on carburetor engines.

The main reason here is the reduction in throughput due to large deposits in the muffler. Because of this, exhaust gases, without having time to escape from the cylinders, “choke” the engine.

The reasons for the drop in thrust are also often the gas distribution mechanism and the cylinder-piston group.

Here the reduction in power occurs due to:

• Violations of the thermal clearance of valves.
• Heavy carbon deposits on the valve plates and seats, or their burning.
• Occurrence of rings.
• Limit wear of the CPG.
• Cylinder head gasket failure.

In general, problems with the timing belt and CPG cause a drop in power in any engine - carburetor, injection, diesel. Therefore, we will not mention these mechanisms further.

Composition of the VAZ 2110 cooling system

It is very difficult to single out the most important element, since all components play the main role in the cooling system. Let's start with the first thing that catches your eye. This is an expansion tank with a plug in which there are two valves (inlet and outlet). While the engine is running, the coolant heats up and expands. The tank is necessary to release excess fluid from the system.

The radiator, fan and temperature sensor are parts located at the front of the car. A radiator is necessary for effective cooling of the liquid in the system. The fan is triggered by a sensor and blows a strong air stream onto the radiator. Due to the blowing, significant heat is removed from the radiator. A sensor is a simple switch whose contacts close at a certain temperature.

A pump installed in the engine block, driven by the timing belt, is necessary to ensure the circulation of coolant in the system. And the thermostat simply switches the cooling circuits. There is also a radiator in the heating system; it is installed in the stove (snail). One pipe from the block (hot liquid) goes to it through a faucet installed on the body. And one pipe comes out of the stove and goes to the thermostat.

Pipes and clamps are secondary parts, but they affect the operation of the entire system, since it is through them that the coolant moves. The slightest crack in the pipe can cause a rapid decrease in the coolant level and an increase in its temperature. There are one or two temperature sensors in the engine block; they are necessary for the operation of the temperature gauge and the ECU.

Lada VAZ-2110 (2111, 2112). The engine cooling fan runs constantly (even at idle)

The cooling fan turns on on a cold engine: the main reasons and solution to the problem

As you know, various malfunctions of the engine cooling system do not allow the engine to reach the optimal temperature regime. The engine may overheat, which can lead to rapid breakdown, or remain cold, that is, not reach operating temperature.

Modern cars use a combined internal combustion engine cooling system: liquid and air cooling. By liquid we mean the circulation of antifreeze or antifreeze through special channels in the cylinder block and cylinder head of the engine.

The coolant circulates thanks to a pump. For additional cooling, the coolant can also circulate in a small circle (inside the engine) and in a large circle, that is, through the radiator.

Air cooling is implemented using a fan, which removes excess heat by supplying an air flow into the engine compartment to blow over the engine. The specified fan is activated when the heating of the unit is sufficiently high. However, quite often drivers are faced with the question of why the cooling fan turns on on a cold engine, the engine fan turns on in winter or spins constantly. In this article we will talk about the reasons why the cooling fan operates on a cold engine, the engine cooling fan does not turn off, or the specified fan does not work correctly.

The fan runs on a cold motor: causes, diagnosis, repair

Let's start with the fact that this problem can clearly indicate both a malfunction of the liquid cooling system and a malfunction of the fan itself. In any case, we are talking about a breakdown that cannot be ignored, since the risk of overheating of the internal combustion engine significantly increases.

For a better understanding, it is necessary to superficially consider the principle of operation of the fan on most modern cars. The airflow is activated by a special sensor located at the bottom of the radiator. Also, many cars use a separate engine cooling fan control unit. There are also models in which the ECU itself is responsible for turning on the fan, but this design is rarely used.

So, after heating the coolant to an average temperature of about 100 degrees Celsius, the sensor or control unit closes the electrical circuit. After this, the fan turns on, improving engine cooling. When the coolant temperature drops to the required value, the circuit opens and the blowing stops. As you can see, the fan should not work on a cold engine. So, to determine why the fan turns on early, for injection cars with an OBD II diagnostic connector, it is recommended to start with computer diagnostics of the car. The fact is that the ability to read error codes from the ECU allows you to more accurately determine the cause of the malfunction.

We also note that in cases where the control unit detects errors in the cooling system, the fan can spin immediately after turning on the ignition, even on a cold internal combustion engine. This feature is found only on some models and is, in fact, protection against overheating of the power unit, since a constantly running fan reduces the temperature.

After repair, in this case you will also need to reset the errors. To erase an error from the ECU, on some models it is enough to remove the terminal from the battery for a couple of minutes, while on others the reset is carried out using diagnostic equipment.

Common cooling fan problems

Now let's look at common problems that are associated with the cooling system and the fan itself.

First of all, in many cases the contacts of the air system sensor short-circuit. In this case, the air blower is activated immediately after the ignition is turned on. During the diagnostic process, the resistance at the outputs is measured on a cold sensor using a multimeter. Deviations from the norm will indicate the need to replace the element.

There is not enough coolant in the liquid system. In this case, the fan is triggered due to the fact that a small amount of antifreeze or antifreeze heats up very quickly. In other words, the fan is working properly and starts naturally. As a rule, leaks or decreased coolant levels in the expansion tank are the main cause. Please note that antifreeze is a mixture of concentrate and water. Water gradually evaporates from the system, causing the level to drop. For this reason, it is recommended to periodically check and add fluid according to special marks.

If there is little coolant in the system, heating occurs quickly. It is also noteworthy that the actual temperature of the liquid is very different from the temperature of the internal combustion engine. It often happens that a cold engine is started, the temperature arrow on the dashboard has not yet risen, but the fan is already working because the liquid is too hot. To solve the problem, it will be enough to fill in antifreeze and remove air plugs from the cooling system. The fan shorts to ground because the wire may not be screwed securely enough, the contact point has been damaged, etc. In this case, the fan can short-circuit to the battery and run non-stop. In such a situation, you need to check all contacts, wiring and other elements. Wires must be securely insulated and properly connected.

The fan sensor, which is integrated into the thermostat housing, has failed. Quite a lot of modern cars are designed with a thermostat, which is combined with a fan control sensor. This solution allows for flexible control of the engine cooling system. However, if there is a problem with the temperature sensor in the thermostat housing, the fan may start running without turning off. The fact is that the control unit begins to receive incorrect signals about how the thermostat works. As a result, the emergency mode is activated, the fan turns on and runs continuously.

In such a situation, you need to check the sensor with a multimeter. Normally, on a cold engine its resistance is infinite, in other cases the indicator should be 100 - 500 Ohms. Deviations in the readings from the norm will indicate that the sensor needs to be replaced with a new one or a known good one.

The outside air temperature sensor has failed. This problem occurs on some cars that are equipped with ambient temperature sensors. If the temperature is above the permissible limit, then these sensors will turn on the fan. This solution allows for more efficient cooling of the power unit, especially on cars that have a powerful forced-internal combustion engine and several radiators. On such units, the fan can be turned on in the warm season even on a cold internal combustion engine to protect against engine overheating.

After turning on the car air conditioner, the fan is constantly running. Note that on some models this fan operation is normal. If we talk about malfunctions, on most modern cars the cooling system is closely connected with the air conditioning system. It is for this reason that contamination of the air conditioner radiator can cause the engine cooling fan to constantly operate at maximum speed. To solve the problem, external cleaning of the air conditioner radiator and cooling system radiator may be required. The fact is that these radiators are located next to each other, dirt, dust and fluff accumulate between them. Removing such a “coat” allows you to normalize the operation of the air conditioning and engine cooling system, get rid of frequent fan starts and increased noise during its operation.

Problems with wiring and electrical contacts. Regardless of how the fan is controlled, contacts are a common cause of problems. Oxidation of contacts or damage to wiring, insufficient fixation at connections and other defects lead to short circuits, transmission of incorrect signals to control units, etc. As a result, the overheating protection mode is activated by constantly rotating the fan, etc. In order to avoid such a situation, experienced drivers recommend cleaning contacts before the onset of winter and summer for preventive purposes. Treatment with special lubricants and protective compounds is also actively practiced.

Bottom line

As you can see, the internal combustion engine itself and its systems require regular maintenance. As for the cooling system, it is also no exception and requires special attention.

Overheating of the engine, steam from the radiator pipes. We also recommend reading the article about what are the most common malfunctions characteristic of the car engine cooling system. From this article you will learn about the main reasons for incorrect operation and possible breakdowns of this system. If the driver notices that the cooling fan has started to work at maximum speed all the time or has stopped turning off in a timely manner, then the first thing you should do is check the antifreeze level, the functionality of the pump and thermostat.

It is also necessary to take into account that the reason for such fan operation may be a clogged cooling radiator or too high outside air temperature, shorted contacts, etc. We should not forget that the fan can constantly spin on a cold engine when the air conditioner is running.

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How the cooling system works

When starting a cold engine, the coolant moves in a small circle. To put it simply, all components work except the radiator. The main task after starting the engine is to quickly reach operating temperature, which is about 90 degrees. When operating a system with a main radiator, this is quite difficult to do; warming up will take a longer period of time. Plus, the throttle valve heating is turned on in a small circle.

When the thermostat opens, it switches to a large circle in which the radiator participates. By turning it on, cooling is much more efficient. At high speed, when the oncoming air flow is very good, the temperature remains at the same level. And when driving through a traffic jam, when there is no this flow, the temperature of the coolant rises. The sensor installed in the radiator is responsible for triggering the fan. When a certain temperature is reached, the contacts close and the fan turns on, creating a powerful air flow.

Welcome, friends, to the DIY car repair website. It's no secret that engine overheating rarely ends in something good. Such a malfunction is fraught with a whole range of problems, which most often lead to the need for repairs and additional costs.

In such a situation, you can only rely on the cooling system, one of the main elements of which is the VAZ 2110 fan switch sensor (abbreviated as DVV).

The engine does not pull, where to look for the reasons

In the life of motorists, a situation often arises when, when driving out onto the road and trying to accelerate, it is noted that the engine does not pull.

That is, the acceleration dynamics are very “sluggish”, the car is reluctant to pick up speed, and it feels like something is holding it back.

This problem can arise with almost any car - domestic or foreign, gasoline or diesel, with a carburetor power system and injector.

Often, a drop in traction is accompanied by additional symptoms - extraneous sounds appear when the engine is running, the engine may stall in one of the modes (usually at idle), the crankshaft speed is not stable and “floats”.

But this is not always the case; it happens that the unit behaves perfectly in all respects, but does not develop power.

Purpose of the fan switch sensor

As we have already mentioned, the DVV is part of the engine cooling system and duplicates the function of the thermostat. The main task of the sensor is to protect the vehicle’s power unit from overheating and promptly give a command to the ECU to turn on the fan. How does he work?

While the engine is running, the coolant temperature may rise. As soon as it reaches a certain level, the DVV gives a command to the electronic unit of the car.

The fan immediately starts and powerful air currents blow over the radiator. As a result, the coolant temperature decreases to the optimal level much faster.

Fan sensor location

Finding the sensor is not difficult - it is located directly in the radiator. A more precise location may vary (it all depends on the design features of the model of a particular year of manufacture).

For example, the DVV can be located in the right or left tank, in the lower or upper part of the radiator.

Finding the location of the sensor is not difficult. This is almost the only unit on the radiator from which wires extend. Another distinctive feature is the large nut head, which can be unscrewed with a “30” wrench.

Operating principle and triggering requirements

So, the main element of the DVV is the contact group inside the node. When the desired temperature is reached, the sensor contacts begin to expand and at a certain moment close. After this, the signal goes to the ECU, which, in turn, gives a command to the fan.

What should the switch-on temperature be? You must remember that DVVs are available with different temperature limits.

Most often, switching on occurs when 92 degrees Celsius is reached, and switching off occurs at 87. Sensors are also sold with other temperature ratings, but for the VAZ-2110 the 92/87 option is most suitable - so give preference to it.

VAZ injection engines

In injection engines VAZ-2110, 2112, 2114, 2115, both 8-valve and with a timing belt with 16 valves, it is more difficult to identify the cause of the decrease in power due to the more complex design of the main systems.

Supply system

Any injector consists of a mechanical executive part and an electronic control part, and problems can arise in both of them, which will lead to a drop in power.

Let's look at the mechanical part first. Here, cravings can be influenced by:

• Severely clogged mesh filter on the fuel pump;
• Decrease in fuel pump performance due to wear;
• The fine filter is dirty;
• Malfunction of the fuel rail pressure regulator;
• Clogged injectors;
• Fuel filter dirty;
• Air leak in the manifold.

In general, almost every element of the injector executive part can be the culprit for a decrease in dynamics.

The situation is approximately the same in the electronic component.

The operation of the engine with the injector is controlled by an electronic unit, which constantly monitors the parameters through sensors installed on different systems.

Main causes of fan failure

If the fan does not turn on when critically high temperatures are reached, there may be several reasons:

• Malfunction of the fan switch sensor (in this case, it must be checked and, if it fails, replaced);
• Fan failure.

If this happens, replacement costs may be significantly higher. To check the fan, connect its contacts directly to the battery (observe the polarity). If the device starts normally, then there is a high probability of failure of the internal combustion engine.

Generator overload

If the battery is charging, but the voltage is insufficient, it means the generator is overloaded. This is facilitated by the installation and connection, in addition to standard electrical equipment, of various gadgets that require electricity. The generator is operating at the limit of its capabilities.

Modern drivers love various car tunings. Thus, serious music systems, powerful lighting and other equipment are installed. Someone also increases the battery power. So, with a 70 Ah battery, the standard VAZ generator cannot fully charge it. It just doesn't have enough power. As a result, the generator provides little charge.

Features of checking the fan switch sensor

Let's look at how to check the fan switch sensor. Everything is simple here:

• Force the sensor to trigger. If the fan starts to rotate, then the air blower will need to be replaced.
• Check the integrity of the fuse that powers the fan. Believe me, it is very disappointing to take your car to a service station, spend a lot of money on repairs and find out that the cause of the malfunction was a blown fuse.
• Inspect the wiring for possible damage.

There is another, more accurate method for checking the sensor. To complete the work you will need a multimeter, an electric or gas stove, an empty container, and a thermometer.

Proceed in the following sequence:

• Pour some water into the container and lower the sensor into it (immerse only the part with the thread).
• Set the switch on the multimeter to the resistance measurement position and connect the probes of the device to the DVV contacts.
• Start heating the water.
• As soon as the temperature reaches 92 degrees Celsius, the sensor should operate and the contacts should close.

In this case, the device will show a certain resistance parameter (if you set the switch to “continuity”, the device will make a squeak). If the sensor does not work, then the only way out is to replace it.

Algorithm for finding the cause

We looked at typical faults. But it is important to find the main reason. If the car has standard equipment and there are no abnormal energy consumers, then you can begin to diagnose the generator directly. If there are additional consumers, it is better to turn them off. In this case, it must be disconnected physically, from the on-board network.

Next, all consumers are connected and the leakage is measured in the same way with a multimeter. If it is large, then the reason should be sought not in the generator or battery, but in one of the devices in the on-board network. If no leakage currents are detected at rest, then most likely the VAZ generator is not charging. We have already discussed the reasons.

Features of replacing the fan switch sensor

As practice shows, replacing the fan switch sensor takes a few minutes, so there is no need to contact a service station. Proceed in the following sequence:

• Remove the negative voltage from the battery;
• drain the coolant from the radiator;
• discard the supply wire from the DVV;
• remove the fan switch sensor and replace it with a new one;
• return the supply wire and the battery negative to their place;
• check the operation of the node.

Carrying out diagnostics and replacing the internal combustion engine with your own hands is not a problem even for a beginner. The main thing is to find a few minutes of free time and do a few simple manipulations.

Domestic “tens” are equipped to ensure proper operation of the motor, based on the readings of various controllers. One of these is considered to be a temperature sensor in the VAZ 2110. You can learn more about this device, its operating principle, as well as diagnostics and replacement from this article.

Characteristics of DTOZH

In order for the injectors, as well as other elements of the injector 16 or 8 valves, to operate in normal mode, the ECM reads readings from many devices. At first glance it may seem that this is not a particularly important device for the “tens” engine, but this is not so. How the devices are turned on, where the indicators are located and what functions they perform - first, we suggest you familiarize yourself with the answers to these questions.

Location, functions and operating principle

The coolant temperature sensor is an electronic device, essentially a semiconductor resistor with a negative coefficient. The controller resistance changes according to the environment. The device is designed to control the temperature during the circulation of consumables in the cooling system of the VAZ 2110 with further transmission of the received data to the dashboard. In addition, this device is also responsible for emergency fan start. In the VAZ 2110, the DTOZH is located in the head of the engine BC. Many car enthusiasts confuse the DTOZH, calling it the VAZ 2110 fan switch sensor, but this is incorrect.

The design of the coolant controller on the VAZ 2110 is quite simple. The greater the temperature effect exerted on the device, the lower its resistance will be. The principle of operation is to transmit a signal from the device to the ECM unit, which, based on this data, regulates the supply of the combustible mixture to the cylinders of the power unit. Until the engine warms up normally, a richer fuel mixture will enter the cylinders.

Why the 16-valve VAZ-2112 began to accelerate poorly - slow acceleration and poor dynamics

Poor acceleration of the 16-valve VAZ-2112 is a consequence of a malfunction in the ignition system or fuel supply. It is difficult to eliminate the causes of such a failure, but it is quite possible to do it yourself. To do this, a considerable amount of work will have to be done.

Lost power on the VAZ-2112 - many symptoms and reasons, more details in the video below:

Methods of testing for functionality

There are several ways to diagnose the antifreeze temperature controller - visually and using a tester. Before arming yourself with a multimeter, you should carefully inspect the device’s case. If it shows signs of corrosion, deposits or damage, this indicates that the regulator needs to be replaced.

As for checking with a multimeter, the procedure is as follows:

1. First, the device should be removed; to do this, you just need to find its installation location, turn off the power and unscrew the device. Next, you will need a container to fill with refrigerant.
2. The next step is to heat the container after you put the DTOZH in it. But before that, it should be connected to the tester probes. Please note that when diagnosing, you must know exactly the heating temperature level of the liquid; this is what will allow you to determine the performance of the controller. The container heats up, and you will need to compare the results obtained with those indicated in the table. The table itself is shown below.
3. If the temperature level does not correspond to the nominal resistance value or vice versa, this indicates a malfunction of the device. Too high a signal level from the coolant temperature sensor also indicates its failure. There are cases when the problem, when the values ​​are higher than optimal, can be solved by cleaning the surface of the device, but such measures, as a rule, help if the deviation of the indicators is insignificant (author of a video about self-diagnosis of DTOZH - channel Device and car repair).

What can you do when the battery is not charging?

If the battery does not charge while driving, you need to localize the problem. First you need to figure out whether the battery or electrical equipment of the car is to blame. If the battery is 5+ years old, then it may not be charged simply due to the exhaustion of its resource. If it is less, you need to check the level and density of the electrolyte, try charging from an external charger. It’s even better to carry out a control charge-discharge cycle by measuring the actual battery capacity, then everything will become clear. If everything is in order, the fault must be looked for in the car.

Possible malfunctions and ways to eliminate them

The following symptoms may inform the car owner about the failure of the DVT:

1. The quality of the exhaust gases is too low, which is associated with a violation of the combustible mixture in the cylinders.
2. Fuel consumption has increased, and noticeably.
3. Problems have arisen in the operation of the power unit. The dynamics of the vehicle may decrease, and the engine power as a whole will also deteriorate.
4. Combinations of errors may appear on the dashboard, and the ECU may also send a signal to the dashboard about the need to check the performance of the motor.
5. The power unit has become more difficult to start.

When they detect the first signs of problems, many motorists immediately drive their car into a garage or service station to change the controller. In practice, symptoms of DTOZ malfunctions are often associated with damage to the electrical circuit and poor contact of the device with the vehicle’s on-board network. Therefore, if you encounter a similar problem, we first recommend checking the condition of the wiring.

Photo gallery “Diagnostics of DTOZH”

1. DTOZH connected to a multimeter in a container with antifreeze

2. Dependence of temperature (left), resistance (right)

Why does the 16-valve VAZ-2112 stall when accelerating?

Repeatedly, many drivers were faced with the fact that the 16-valve VAZ-2112 began to become dull during acceleration or a drop in speed was felt. This may be due to various reasons that you need to know how to eliminate.

The video shows the process when a VAZ-2112 was tripping, did not pick up speed well, the check engine light came on periodically, and a solution:

Instructions for replacing the controller

Replacing the regulator looks like this:

1. First, the battery terminals are disconnected. All coolant should be drained from the radiator unit.
2. Next, you need to disconnect the wiring from the device; to do this, you just need to disconnect the plug. For greater ease of removal, you can remove the air filter.
3. After this, the controller is dismantled; to do this, it must be unscrewed. The unscrewing procedure is performed using a wrench. The failed device is removed from the outlet hose hole.
4. As for installation, in this case the procedure will look similar, only in reverse order. When installing a new device, do not forget to change the O-ring. When installing the controller, tighten it as much as possible and connect the wiring to it. Now all you have to do is refill the antifreeze and connect the battery, after which you can check the performance of the DTOZH.

Replacing diesel fuel assemblies

Removal of diesel fuel assemblies in VAZ 2110

The VAZ 2110 interior temperature sensor is used to monitor temperature parameters in the car. This controller is also a transmitter connected to the ECM. In cold weather, the VAZ air controller transmits information to the ECU, which promotes optimal air flow throughout the car interior. As in the previous case, the malfunction of the device may be due to problems in the operation of the electrical circuit, so it would be a good idea to check the wiring if the controller does not turn on.

To replace the interior, you need to perform the following steps:

1. The car must be set to the parking brake. Disconnect the battery.
2. Using a flat-tip screwdriver, you need to move the device body away from the installation site.
3. First, the upper part of the diesel fuel assembly is removed, this will allow for more convenient dismantling of the controller. When the device is removed from the latches, proceed carefully, since you will still need to disconnect it from the wiring (two connectors). First, the wiring is disconnected, then the combustion engine itself is removed.
4. As for installation, the procedure looks similar, but is done in reverse order. After installation, it is necessary to diagnose the functionality of the device.

If the diesel engine doesn't work

A decrease in traction can also occur in diesel engines. If we look at old cars that have completely mechanical power systems, then the most common cause is depressurization of the system.

As a result, air enters the fuel, which is why the fuel injection pump is unable to provide the required pressure.

• clogged filters;
• weakly pumping fuel priming pump;
• damaged plunger pair;
• Coking of injector nozzles.

And if we also add possible problems with the timing belt and CPG, then identifying the cause will not be so easy.

In modern diesel installations, where an additional electronic component is used, the search range will increase.

For example, the Common Rail system uses all the same sensors as the injection engine. And if at least one of them breaks, this will certainly affect the operation of the control part.