Let's consider such a problem in a Lada Priora car as a non-functioning instrument panel (dashboard). I’ll tell you a case from the practice of a car service. One Priora owner's instrument panel suddenly stopped working, the lights came on, and all the arrows were dead. He did not find out why this suddenly happened, but simply bought another one at a disassembly site and put it in place of the broken one. After some time, it also stopped working, and in the end he had to go to a car service for diagnostics.
The cause of this malfunction was found out; the individual coil was broken to ground, i.e. 25,000 volts hit the ground, and accordingly all the electronics went crazy. A similar problem occurred on the Opel Vectra A, where in addition to the instrument panel, it was still impossible to connect the diagnostic tool. The problem was not with the coils, but with the fact that the high-voltage wires have a very high resistance, their general condition was very deplorable, this led to the fact that the slider in the distributor heated up and began to “break through” to ground.
Here is a broken coil on a Priora:
How was the fault determined? We immediately heard misfires from the exhaust, and only then began to remove the connectors from the coils and, using a rebuild method, found the problem cylinder that had misfires.
Fuses and relays in Lada Priora, electrical diagrams
Lada Priora is another car in the line of new VAZ cars, which is gaining popularity among segments of the population. External similarities with the 10th model attract the attention of young people; the relatively low price is also a reason for purchase for most car enthusiasts. Along with the growth in popularity, the owners of this model are gaining experience in repair and maintenance, which is becoming more and more every year.
If your Priora has electrical problems, do not rush to get upset; first, check the fuses and relays in your Lada Priora. These are the ones that will be discussed in this article.
Fuse box in the passenger compartment of VAZ-2170, -2171, -2172
The fuse box in Priora is located at the bottom of the dashboard, on the left side of the steering wheel. To get to it, you need to open the cover, which is held on by three latches. Rotate each locking knob 90 degrees and pull the lid down and it will snap open.
Fuses in the interior mounting block
F1 (25 A) - radiator cooling fan. If your fan does not work, check its motor by applying 12 V directly to it from the battery. If the engine is working properly, then most likely the problem is in the wiring or connectors. Check the serviceability of relay K1.
The fan in the Priora usually turns on at a temperature of 105-110 degrees. Do not allow the engine to overheat, watch the arrow of the temperature sensor.
If the fan runs constantly and does not turn off, check the coolant temperature sensor located on the thermostat. If you remove the connector from the working sensor, the fan should turn on. Check the wiring to this temperature sensor, as well as the contacts of relay K1, move this relay, clean the contacts. If this is the case, replace it with a new relay.
F2 (25 A) - heated rear window. Check together with fuse F11 and relay K2. If the rear window does not fog up, the heating element threads may have broken. Inspect all the threads and if you find a break, seal it with special glue or varnish, which can be bought at car dealerships for 200-300 rubles. Check the connection contacts at the terminals to the heating elements at the edges of the glass, as well as the switch on the dashboard and the wiring from it to the rear window.
F3 (10 A) - high beam, right headlight. F4 (10 A) - high beam, left headlight. If the headlights do not shine on high beam, check the K7 relay and the headlight bulbs. The steering column switch, wiring or connectors may also be faulty.
F5 (10 A) - sound signal.
If the signal does not work when you press the steering wheel button, check relay K8. The signal itself is located under the radiator grille; you can get to it by removing the plastic casing from above. Check it by connecting the voltage to 12 V. If it doesn’t work, try turning the adjusting screw, or replace it with a new one.
F6 (7.5 A) - low beam, left headlight. F7 (7.5 A) - low beam, right headlight. When replacing lamps, be careful; there are separate lamps for the low and high beams, so they can be easily confused. It is better not to install lamps in high-power headlights; the reflectors may melt and the desired effect will not be achieved. Most low beam headlight problems that cannot be corrected by conventional means can be related to the light control module (LCM). The low beam relay is only available in cars equipped with a light sensor, it is located in the place of relay K1; on most cars this relay is not in the mounting block; the low beam circuit goes through the MUS block. It happens that the tracks in the block burn out; if there are problems, it is better to replace it with a new one. If the windshield wipers turn on spontaneously when the low beam is not working correctly, the problem is most likely in the windshield wiper control unit, located in the center of the dashboard, the topmost block, next to the radio, is best reached from the glove compartment, or by hand through the removed console covers at the feet.
F8 (10 A) - alarm signal. If the alarm does not work, also check relay K9.
F9 (25 A) - stove fan.
If your stove does not work in any mode, the problem may be with the stove speed controller or with the engine. Check the stove motor by applying 12 V voltage directly to it. If it does not work, remove it, open the cover and check the condition of the brushes. If the stove does not work only in the first modes, but works in the last mode, most likely you need to replace the heater resistance, located under the hood on the fan scroll.
The price of these resistors is about 200 rubles. Also check that the filter and all pipes are clean and that air flows normally into the stove. If the stove fan squeaks or turns with difficulty, try lubricating it. If the stove turns on and off, check the connectors and contacts in them, they could have melted or oxidized, in this case, replace the connector.
If the car has an air conditioner, the thermal fuse may burn out; it is located near the additional resistance; the fan fuse in the configuration with the air conditioner is located under the hood in the power fuse box.
F10 (7.5 A) - instrument panel, interior lights, brake lights.
If your instrument needles and gauges on the panel stop working, most likely the problem is in the connector that fits it. Check to see if it has fallen out and inspect its contacts. It may also be due to burnout of the tracks on the panel board. In this case, you need to disassemble the panel and inspect it. It can be easily disassembled by unscrewing the screws on top under the trim, on the bottom near the fuse cover and on the side.
If your brake lights do not work, none of them including the additional interior light, most likely the problem is in the switch, which is located at the base of the brake pedal, check and replace it. If some of the brake lights work and some don't, the bulbs are most likely burnt out. To replace the lamp you need to remove the headlight. To prevent the lamps from burning out, replace them with better ones.
F11 (20 A) - heated rear window, windshield wipers. If the heating does not work, see information about F2. If the front wipers do not work, check the tightness of the nuts on the shafts and the operation of the gear motor by removing it and applying 12 V voltage to it. If the motor is faulty, replace it with a new one. Removing the motor is problematic due to the design, so it is better to contact a car service.
The price of a new engine is about 1,800 rubles (if the car is not under warranty). Also check the steering column switch, it may be faulty or its contacts have oxidized.
F12 (10 A) - pin 15 from the devices.
F13 (15 A) - cigarette lighter. If your cigarette lighter does not work, check its contacts and wiring. Typically, problems with the cigarette lighter occur due to a short circuit after using non-standard or low-quality connectors. To replace the cigarette lighter, you need to remove the center console.
F14 (5 A) - left-hand side lamps. F15 (5 A) - right-side lamps. If your headlights stop working and the dashboard backlight does not light up, most likely the problem is in the light control module (LCM), check all the connectors and contacts in them; if the module is faulty, replace it with a new one. If the dashboard lights work, but the dimensions do not, most likely the problem is in the wiring or contacts. Don't forget to check the lamps themselves.
F16 (10 A) - Pin 15 from ABS.
F17 (10 A) - left fog lamp. F18 (10 A) - right fog lamp. If the PTF stops working, the lamps may have burned out, check if there is voltage in their connectors. If there is no voltage there, then in addition to the fuses, there is either wiring, or connectors, or a relay. Also check the power button in the cabin. The lamps in the “foglights” can be replaced by unscrewing the bumper or one side of it, or by unscrewing the fender liners and turning the wheels towards the headlight being replaced, or you need to unscrew the protection from below. You cannot install xenon in the PTF, because there is no tilt angle corrector and there is a high probability of blinding oncoming drivers.
F19 (15 A) - heated seats. If the heated front seats stop working, check the connector under the seat, wiring and the power button.
F20 (5 A) - immobilizer.
The immobilizer blocks the ignition circuit and the operation of the fuel pump. If the immobilizer does not see or loses the key, and also does not work correctly, try replacing the battery in the key. The electrical package control unit, which is located in the center of the dashboard, in the area of the radio, the second unit from the top with a black housing, could have failed. If you have lost your key and want to use a new one, you will need to register it in the immobilizer firmware.
If you disable the immobilizer, a light with a key symbol will light up on the panel, this means that it is looking for a key.
F21 (7.5 A) - rear fog lamp.
F22-30 - backup fuses.
F31 (30 A) - electrical package control unit.
Relay in the interior mounting block
K1 – radiator cooling fan relay. See information about F1.
K2 – relay for turning on the heated rear window. See information about F2.
K3 – starter activation relay. If the starter does not turn when you turn the key, first check the battery voltage and the contacts of its terminals, if necessary, clean them from oxidation and tighten them firmly. Charge the dead battery or replace it with a new one. The common ground contact in the engine compartment or the contact on the solenoid relay may also disappear; check whether the nuts are securely fastened and whether they hold the wire terminals well.
You can check the starter by closing its contacts directly with a screwdriver when the gearbox is in neutral gear or by applying a plus from the battery to one of the retractor contacts. If it turns, it means the problem is in the wiring or the ignition switch. If not, most likely the starter itself or the retractor is faulty.
Another reason may be the lack of contacts in the ignition switch. Also check the contact group, wires and connectors.
K4 – additional relay (ignition relay).
K5 – backup relay.
K6 – front wiper and washer relay. See information about F11. If the washer does not work, in the cold season, check the washer system pipes for frozen liquid and blockages, and also inspect the nozzles. Check the pump and its contacts by applying 12 V voltage to it; the pump is attached to the reservoir with windshield washer fluid. If the pump fails, replace it with a new one.
K7 – headlight high beam relay. See information about F3, F4.
K8 – horn relay. See information about F5.
K9 – alarm relay. Check together with fuse F8.
K10, K11, K12 – backup relays.
Symptoms
Drivers accustomed to carburetor engines often do not react to the appearance of symptoms of speedometer failure. On injection engines, you need to pay attention to the behavior of this device. Symptoms of failure are as follows:
- The instrument needle does not work completely or partially. It can periodically turn on, tremble, freeze at a certain level.
- Complete failure of the instrument panel.
- The speedometer determines the speed limit with a large error.
- The engine is losing power.
- Fuel consumption increases noticeably.
- The stability of the power unit at idle speed is lost.
All these signs are the result of a breakdown or malfunction of the components of the speed calculation system. A detailed analysis of the reasons will be given below.
Additional block
Additional relays are mounted on a bar and located under the dashboard, near the front passenger's feet. To get to them, you need to remove the right tunnel lining. Next to the additional relays is the electronic engine control unit (ECU).
If its connector interferes with access to the relay, disconnect it by first removing the negative terminal from the battery.
Circuit breakers
F1 (15 A) – main relay circuit, starter blocking.
F2 (7.5 A) – power circuit of the electronic control unit (ECU).
F3 (15 A) – electric fuel pump. If the fuel pump has stopped pumping (this can be determined by the absence of a sound when the ignition is turned on), check together with relay K2. There may also be problems with the immobilizer, it blocks the pump, see information about F20. If the wiring, this fuse and the relay are good, most likely the fuel pump itself has failed. To remove it, you need to disconnect the battery, remove the rear seat cushion, unscrew the cover, ring and fuel hoses, then carefully remove the entire fuel pump.
K1 – main relay.
K2 – electric fuel pump relay. See above about F3.
The stove does not turn on
In a situation where the Priora stove does not turn on, there may be two explanations - a blown fuse, a blown fan motor, a breakdown of the controller, or oxidation of the contacts in the connectors.
After checking the fuse, take the following steps:
- Open the hood and on the left side (looking at the windshield) remove the rubber seal at the top left.
- Remove the four screws to remove the trim.
- Find the heater connector somewhere near the third mount.
- Turn on the ignition.
- Try to press the connector and pay attention to whether the stove starts working or not.
Damage to the connector is a real problem on the Priora, so do not rush to immediately change the control unit or other elements before checking the fuse and the quality of the contact connection.
Block in the engine compartment
The power fuse box is located in the engine compartment under the hood, near the left strut support. To get to it, you need to open the lid by prying the latch.
1 (30 A) - engine control system circuit. If there are problems with the electronic control unit, short circuits or other malfunctions, this fuse may blow out.
2 (30 A) - vehicle on-board circuit. 3 (40 A) - vehicle on-board circuit.
4 (60 A) - generator circuit.
5 (50 A) - electric power steering circuit.
6 (60 A) - generator circuit.
In case of any problems, it is important not to panic, to think soberly and logically. The most important thing is to diagnose and establish the cause of the breakdown. If you don’t have enough experience or nerves, it’s easier to sign up at the nearest car service center if it has a competent electrician.
I hope this article will help you deal with electrical problems and quickly fix any Priora malfunctions. If you have any experience or information, please leave a comment below, useful information will be added to the article.
Everyone values the time of day! TROUBLE! The instrument lights do not light up. First things first. Probably half a year ago my speedometer light stopped working. Today I decided to take care of it and changed two light bulbs. I put it in place, turn on the dimensions, and then “Hello.” Only the tachometer light is on and that’s it. The rest of the instruments are not illuminated, and the arrows do not light up either. The BC monitor is on and working, the arrows are also functioning, the indicator lights are all on. Only the devices do not light up. Changed the rest of the light bulbs. the same. Zero result.
Maybe someone had something similar? What could it be? Is it really necessary to change the device?
An instrument panel and several switches for various additional devices are installed on the front panel of the Lada Priora. If you look at the instrument panel from left to right, then it contains: tachometer, speedometer, coolant temperature indicator, fuel level indicator in the gas tank. There is a liquid crystal display under the speedometer, and below it, along the entire length of the dashboard, there are 16 warning lights. Two more turn signal indicator lamps are located at the top left and right of the speedometer. All instruments and warning lamps operate from appropriate sensors, and an electronic control unit takes part in data transmission.
Malfunctions that cause malfunctions in the operation of the instrument panel are purely electrical and are difficult to find without the appropriate knowledge. The following case can be cited as an example. The driver wiped dust from the front panel and instrument panel glass with a microfiber cloth. After these actions, when the ignition was turned on, the instrument panel refused to work at all. All instrument needles were at zero. He searched for the cause of this phenomenon and the elimination of this malfunction for quite a long time, but still found it. Apparently, a microfiber cloth, when moving over a plastic surface, creates a magnetic field, which leads to failure of the instrument panel. And fixing this malfunction is quite simple; you just need to remove the negative terminal from the battery for 10 seconds. But how much time was wasted in order for this rag, which is the cause of this malfunction, to be thrown into the trash.
A complete failure of the instrument panel can also result from the failure of the 7.5 amp fuse F10; in this case, the interior lamp and brake lights will also not light up. So it’s quite easy to check it without even opening the mounting block.
If only one device does not work, then you need to start looking for the cause of this malfunction by searching and checking the functionality of the sensor that powers this device. But again, all signals from the sensors to the dashboard instruments go through the electronic control unit. And if replacing the sensor does not give positive results, then you will have to check the electronic unit and the instrument panel itself, and here you cannot do without specialists.
The only thing the driver can do on the instrument panel is to check and, if necessary, replace a burnt-out warning light bulb. Sometimes the cause of the malfunction is simply poor contact in the connecting blocks of the wires. The driver can also check their condition himself.
The more complex the filling becomes on modern cars, the more difficult it is for the driver to find the cause and eliminate any malfunctions that arise. In these cases, knowledge and fairly easy access to information about the causes of these malfunctions are needed.
Dear experts, I think someone has encountered this. Priora 13 year luxury, tidy with navigation itelma. The display sometimes works, sometimes it doesn't.
Maybe someone knows where to buy a display, if you find a link on Alika. Very necessary
Cooling system or motor?
Before you begin troubleshooting the heating of the furnace, it is necessary to eliminate the impact of breakdowns of the cooling system and engine. Only then can you begin to figure out why the stove mode switch on the Priora does not work. To do this, we check the antifreeze level and engine operation. First step: look into the expansion tank and determine the coolant level. Then turn on the engine and warm it up for a while. This will allow you to determine whether the thermostat is functioning correctly. Just touch the thick pipes leading to the radiator.
If you find that the top pipe is hot, this indicates that the device is functioning normally. A cold pipe is a sign that the thermostat is not working properly and you will need to replace it. This part is inexpensive, so replacement will be easy. A loose expansion tank cap is another reason why the engine remains cold. Because of this, the Priora stove switch may not work. Just replace this part.
The cooling system of Lada Priora is slightly different from the tenth model; it practically does not create an air lock. It can be caused by incomplete system insulation or antifreeze poured into an empty expansion tank. Solving the problem is not difficult. Remove the reservoir cap, stand on a hill with your front wheels and accelerate.
FakeHeader
Comments 17
My throttle went off. View the board on the non-propelled
Do you mean the throttle?) I’ll take it to another place one of these days to check
How to understand whether something works or doesn’t? With brightness everything is fine, but the LCD backlight periodically turns off and does it plow?
I turn on the ignition, and sometimes the screen lights up, sometimes it doesn’t light up. But when the screen turns black, I don’t see anything, but from the passenger side I can see what’s happening on the display
I don’t really understand this, but as I understand it, the master said the screen consists of layers and supposedly, at his own risk, he disassembled the display itself and changed the backlight, but it didn’t help.
Its version processor or cable
Well then it's definitely a train.
Is the repair suitable? Or is it all the star to him?
I read it and he took it from my hands. There's no longer there
Maybe it's enough to just solder the contacts? Carefully examine the tracks and pins that are soldered into the board, as well as the connectors for connecting to the instrument panel. 85 percent of the faults are located there.
Another plus is that the cable may fall off from the LCD contacts
By the way. Thanks for the addition. I forgot this moment.
AvtoAmper161
Maybe it's enough to just solder the contacts? Carefully examine the tracks and pins that are soldered into the board, as well as the connectors for connecting to the instrument panel. 85 percent of the faults are located there.
I gave it to the technician, he first of all soldered the contacts, changed the backlight and did something to the processor
Then either to another master. Or to the landfill. To another master, not because this handyman. There are just moments when I can’t find the reason, I myself send the client to another master.
I agree, you need to find a friend. Landfill is not an option. The cost of such a device is very expensive
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| I came across panel 2170-3801010-60 (with a can-bus) with a complaint about the lack of indication. I don’t know how this happened for the owners, it felt like they had turned down the brightness of the display to zero. I contacted Itelm specialists and they told me the display unit was faulty (I didn’t understand) and recommended that I contact them in Moscow and give the panel for repair. They didn’t give me a diagram, the same recommendations for repairs, corporate rules (to develop crap and then make a secret out of the documentation). According to the subject, I thought it was a software glitch, but after the firmware the same canoe was still left, and once it turned on a dozen times it showed brighter, it’s a pity there was no way to attach another display. |
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| I uploaded working dumps, but there was no result. On one of the resources I came across information that when rebooting the device after updating, you need to pull out the flash drive from it. If this is not done, we get a dark screen and then can only be restored through a Windows XP PC. Are there any working dumps? |
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| How to update these panels via PC? |
Age: 2022 years old
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| On the “Oktya” forum, section “odometers”, Granta, Priora2, Kalina2 Itelma instrument panels |
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| Maybe off topic, watch the video, what could it be? video Electrical package without errors, I threw off the PP, the test passes all the rules. Everything works, but these oil lamps and emergency lights are constantly on. |
Replacing a car speed sensor
As for its location, look for the DS in the engine compartment in close proximity to the exhaust manifold. To be honest, the place where it is installed cannot be called ideal. While the car is running, the manifold heats up. The sensor wires rub against it, which over time leads to malfunctions and short circuits. Therefore, experts recommend that the first step is to properly insulate the wiring, and also use some kind of clamps so that the wires do not come into contact with the collector. This significantly extends its service life.
If the check shows that the DS is faulty, it needs to be replaced. Repairing sensors and similar small electronic devices is a thankless task. In a garage environment, this is unlikely to be possible, and the only thing that can be done is to clean the contacts from oxidation (this can be a problem).
It doesn’t matter whether you have an injection car or a carburetor with a Europanel - the connection of the speed sensor to the instrument cluster is identical.
Replacing the VAZ speed sensor: step-by-step instructions:
- Drive into the pit - it will be more convenient to work from below - and wait until the engine cools down.
- Turn off the vehicle's power by removing the cable from the negative terminal of the battery. Do not close the hood after this, this will provide you with lighting.
- Locate the speed sensor on the transmission. Clean it and everything near it with a rag to remove any dirt.
- By pressing the spring clip, disconnect the wire block from the sensor.
- Dismantle the sensor itself by unscrewing it counterclockwise - with your fingers or an open-end wrench to “22”.
- Carefully, so as not to break anything, install a new part in place of the removed part. Connect the wire block to it and the procedure for replacing the speed sensor can be considered complete.
How to properly connect a new DS? It is important here that the device rod fits correctly into the fixing sleeve, otherwise rotation will not be transmitted to the sensor. If the sensor fits into the socket the first time, then everything is in its place, and if something prevents it from moving, then the rod did not fit into the bushing.
Attention /1
Below are the main reasons why reverse lights may malfunction and not light up when driving in reverse gear.
- Lamp burnouts
- Fuse
- Reverse sensor
- Open circuit
- Oxidation of contacts
Lamp burnout
This is the simplest option, but it still cannot be ruled out. It is unlikely that both bulbs could fail at once, but it is possible that you may not have noticed that one of the reverse lights is not on. Therefore, first of all, it is worth checking the lamps. To do this, you need to dismantle the lamp; it is removed from the luggage compartment and is held on by three wings.
Fuse
Both reversing lamps are powered by the same circuit, protected by the same fuse. Therefore, when the fuse-link melts, the power supply circuit for the lights disappears and both lamps stop turning on. This can easily be checked by looking at the dashboard, since on the Priora the fuse responsible for powering the rear running lights is also responsible for the dashboard lighting. If the car's lights and instrument panel lights stop lighting at the same time, the fuse link has most likely failed.
This fuse is numbered F12 with a rated current of 20A or 10A, depending on the vehicle configuration. In the “luxury” configuration 20A, “standard” 10A.
You can only replace a fuse with the same rating as it was previously installed in order to avoid a fire in the vehicle's electrical wiring.
Designations for other fuses can be found here.
Reverse sensor
To turn on the reversing lamps on the Prior, a special sensor is used, which is installed in the gearbox housing (gearbox). It is he who is able to disable the lights. This sensor is reliable, but it also sometimes fails.
It is not possible to repair this electrical appliance, so it is recommended to replace it entirely.
You can get to the sensor from the inspection hole, but to do this you will have to remove the crankcase protection (if equipped). We find the sensor, circled in red in the picture.
Next, remove the chip from the sensor and close it with a jumper made of thin wire, then turn on the ignition and see if the lights come on. If the lamps come on, then you need to start replacing the sensor.
Open circuit
Checking the circuit for open circuit is done using a multimeter. It is necessary to turn on the ignition on the car and set the gearbox to reverse gear. On the device, set the switch to measure DC voltage, as in the picture below.
We check whether the plus is coming to the lamp; to do this, remove the lamp and connect the device between the two contacts; if the device shows readings from 11V to 13V, then everything is normal and the circuit is working.
If there are no readings, then we connect one of the multimeter probes to the car body and take a measurement. The readings that appear on the multimeter will mean that the “-” mass is not reaching the flashlight. You need to look for a break.
If there are no readings, then the power supply circuit “+” and “-“ is open. It is best to contact an auto electrician to fix the problem.
Oxidation of contacts
Contacts can oxidize due to a poor connection between the lamp and the contact, as well as the sensor and the chip. Most often, oxidation occurs at the contact between the chip and the sensor. We check the contacts, tighten them if necessary and clean them.
After carrying out all the manipulations described above, the rear running lights of your car will shine like new.
Possible reasons
What to do in a situation where the instrument panel backlight on a VAZ-2110 car has disappeared? First of all, you should look for the reason why this malfunction occurred. Sometimes it can be identified immediately, but in some cases this process takes some time. In fact, there may be several reasons, so you will need to check everything methodically.
The most banal and simplest option is that someone turned the rheostat knob, which is responsible for the amount of light flux, all the way to the left.
This, by the way, is often the sin of children who are placed in the front seat. “Young drivers” love to turn all sorts of knobs, press buttons and switch levers. Perhaps the adults overlooked it, and the child “corrected” the dashboard lighting. The problem, as you understand, is solved by simply returning the rheostat knob to its previous position. Therefore, before you start looking for possible reasons for the sudden disappearance of the backlight, check this particular point.
I would like to remind you of one simple rule. In a situation where there may be several possible causes of failure, when searching you need to follow the path of least resistance. In other words, test the simplest assumptions first. You may be lucky and find the problem with minimal time and effort.
If the reason is not in the position of the rheostat handle, you need to proceed to further search for the causes of the breakdown. Possible sources of problems here could be:
- fuse;
- instrument panel circuit board;
- contacts;
- wiring;
- failure of light bulbs due to short circuit.
So, let's look at some of the above reasons in more detail. After the rheostat handle, you should check the integrity of the 5-amp fuse F1. You can also usually turn on the side lights and see if they work on the left side. Everything is explained here simply. The lamps that illuminate the instrument panel, the left side lights, as well as the trunk lighting operate through this fuse. The dimensions located on the right side of the car receive power through F11, that is, they are not of interest to us in this particular case.
You may see the following situation. The left side parking lights, or trunk light, work, but the instrument panel light does not. This means that the problem is not in fuse F1. Therefore, you need to continue searching for the possible cause of the malfunction. In particular, it is necessary to check the contacts of the rheostat that illuminates the dashboard lighting. It is not uncommon for plugs to fall off. Accordingly, the lighting of the shield disappears due to lack of contact.
However, the rheostat itself can also fail. It is quite easy to check this assumption. To do this, you must first remove the rheostat, and then directly connect its contacts. If after this manipulation the instrument panel lights come to life, it means that the problem has been found, and you just need to replace the failed part. If not, then you need to continue searching further.
How to change instrument lighting on a Priora
Replacing the backlight of the Lada Priora instrument panel
Where is the starter relay on the VAZ-2114: photo and video location
Task: replace the dashboard backlight in Lada Priora
We remove the dashboard of the Lada Priora. Let's disassemble it, everything is simple (4 screws and everything else is secured with latches). Another important thing is to carefully remove the hands and not damage them. Peel off the lining (overlay with numbers) and on the back side of this lining we begin to erase the green coating. I washed with ear sticks and rubbing alcohol (solvent is not recommended).
Next, carefully remove the LCD screen. We take out the green filter, erase the green coating of the filter and put everything back
Next, we change 5 light bulbs to white LEDs (you can also install red or blue LEDs, whichever backlight you prefer). I bought white LEDs together with a base at a radio store.
Let's put everything back together in reverse order.
The photo shows that it shines brightly, but in real life it is much worse. After driving around, some diodes began to blink, apparently there was a bad contact, and I decided to change the backlight a little.
I bought 1 meter of LED strip and a soldering iron with a thin tip.
1 Replacing Priora lamps in 5 minutes
2 Illumination of the instrument cluster Lada Priora 2.1 Soundproofing Priora
Replacing backlight bulbs
instrument panel
Lada Priora VAZ 2170.
Illumination of the instrument cluster Lada Priora
Backlight tuning
instrument combinations
Priora frets from Pavel Medved.
Let's begin. We take the tape and cut strips, 3 diodes in each, and solder the wiring to them. I took solid copper wire.
Next, glue these strips in the same way as shown in the photo. In some places it is necessary to drill holes for the wires.
Let's check this whole thing. To test the LEDs, I bought a 9 volt Krona battery. All diodes light up
We take the board and connect it to the car, turn on the dimensions and use the control light to find the plus and minus of the backlight. And solder the wiring to them.
Then we assemble everything and twist and insulate all the wires.
I wanted blue arrows. I bought blue fluorescent paint at an art salon. I wiped off the red coating on the hands and painted it.
It shines very brightly. You set the backlight control to minimum and everything is fine, it doesn’t dazzle. But still I decided to tint it with 20Koy.
Here is the final version of the work done. I spent 2 evenings on this matter and was pleased with the result. Now it shines evenly and brightly.
Result: work on replacing the dashboard backlight of the Lada Priora has been completed
Noise insulation priors
To soundproof the Lada Priora with your own hands - for starters, I bought five or two rolls of Splen, STP sheets, corrugations for
Priora speed sensor: replacement, location, malfunctions
If the engine stalls in idle mode on the Priora, you should check several sensors. The “culprit” may be DPKV, DFID, IAC, DAS or TPS. In this review we will talk about the speed sensor (DSA). Before changing this component, it must be checked. The DSA is located in the upper part of the gearbox housing. A faulty sensor transmits erroneous information, and as a result, the operation of Lada Priora components, including the engine, is disrupted. Here's how it happens:
- The DSA sends a signal to the component responsible for idling the engine;
- This component works together with the PPX, which supplies air to the throttle valve;
- Increasing vehicle speed increases the number of these signals.
Checking the vehicle speed sensor (VSA)
The easiest way to identify a malfunction of this element will be for owners of a Lada Priora with an on-board computer - a message will appear on the display stating that there are no signals to the speed sensor. Without the BC, you can also understand that malfunctions have appeared in the operation of the DSA: at idle, the power plant is unstable, engine thrust is reduced, the speedometer gives incorrect data, fuel consumption has increased. Now let's look at three verification methods. Usually the test is carried out on a removed DSA; detailed instructions for dismantling this component are provided at the end of the article.
First method (without removal)
The Lada Priora must be raised so that only one wheel does not stand on the surface. The sensor contacts must be connected to a voltmeter. Now we move on to the raised wheel and begin to rotate it. If voltage and frequency appear on the tester, then the sensor is working.
Second method (with removal)
We dismantle the component we need. Using a voltmeter, you need to determine where the terminal that sends the signals is located. We connect its incoming contact to the meter, the second contact of the voltmeter must be grounded to the body of the Lada Priora or its engine.
Rotate the DSA, this way you can understand whether there are signals in the duty cycle. In this case, it is necessary to measure the output voltage. We put a piece of tube on the DSA axis; it must be twisted at a speed of approximately 4 km/h. As the rotation speed increases, the frequency and voltage readings on the meter display should increase.
Third way
Here we need control. The impulse terminal should be disconnected from the component we need. We start the ignition and find the “minus” and “plus” using the control. We hang the Lada Priora wheel as in the first verification method. We fasten the signal wire with a control and manually turn the wheel. The “minus” should be lit on the measuring device - this indicates that the DSA is working properly.
As an alternative, you can use a simple light bulb with a wire. You can check the DSA as follows: one end is connected to the battery positive, and the other to the signal input. If the light flashes when the wheel rotates, then faults should be looked for in other components.
Replacement
Prepare a ratchet handle, a set of screwdrivers and a 10mm socket wrench. The Lada Priora should be on a flat surface; we begin work by disconnecting the negative terminal of the battery.
The replacement takes place according to the following scheme:
- For convenience, we dismantle the injection pipe coming from the air filter. To do this, you need to unscrew the bolts located on each side of the pipe. Then we remove the fastening of the thin hose and remove the pipe;
Unscrew the fastenings of the pipe and loosen its clamps - Now you can see the DSA. Disconnect the wiring going to the power connector. It is necessary to unscrew the nut on the stud - a 10 socket socket will help us with this;
- Pull the speed sensor housing towards you. It may be tight in the mount, in which case use a flathead screwdriver;
We remove the wiring from the sensor - Carefully pry the housing from below and remove it from the gearbox;
- We mount the new component and securely fix it, now we connect the wires. It is recommended to lubricate the rubber seal;
Pry up the sensor housing with a screwdriver if it cannot be pulled out manually
Standard instrument panel - article number and price
The original car tidy exists in three types.
- the first is an option for a pre-restyling car;
- the second panel is for a restyled car;
- and the third is the “Lux” option for the restyled one, which has become faintly similar to all previous torpedoes.
Each of them contains standard elements such as a tachometer, so their functionality does not decrease. . Who wants to do tuning of the instrument panel, this option is for them.
Priora first generation
The instrument cluster for the first generation Lada Priora received catalog number 2170-3801010. Cost – about 6,000 rubles. Everything is standard with it - from left to right there are four arc scales with red arrows: odometer, speedometer, coolant temperature, fuel level. Below the speedometer there is a small on-board computer display, and above the arches are all the indicators, including the direction indicators.
Priora 2
For the Priora “Lux” variation there are two more “subtypes” - with or without a CAN bus. Different subtypes were made so that the panel could be connected to any car. Catalog number – 2170-3801010-50 without tire, 2170-3801010-60 with tire. It is distinctive in that it contains an elongated display with a screen that can highlight the navigator.
The catalog number of the combination for the “Norma” assembly is 21720-03801010-20. Cost – 6,500 rubles. Like the “Lux” version, it received a brighter speedometer and odometer, and the coolant temperature along with the fuel level indicator is hidden at the bottom of the speedometer and odometer. The base will not create a route on the display, but will show all the information in color.
Lada Priora Hatchback Belaya Laiba › Logbook › Self-repair of the instrument panel
So, the first entry and the recent breakdown. In general, the speedometer got stuck at 120 km/h and wouldn’t let go. My father-in-law at the speedometer was 0, it was 120, if you go 50, then the speedometer shows 170 km/h))) it’s a very inconvenient thing that turned out like this. The tachometer was also downward by 500 rpm. I read here on the website who treated it. Reset the terminal from the battery, run a tidy test, etc. nothing helped. It was decided to remove the tidy and set the arrows by hand. I put it out, I think everything will be fine. I connect the device, run tests, what is the result? The tachometer needle still doesn’t show correctly (goes down), and the speedometer is fine at first, but then there are some crackles and it again starts to show incorrectly, going far beyond 200 and resting on the bottom of the dashboard... Taking a friend to help, we decided to open it completely and see how everything works there and what interferes with the shooters. After much thought and fiddling with a thin screwdriver, we uncovered the “motor” that turns the speedometer needle. The whole problem was that the gear on which the arrow was mounted was not entirely intact, or rather, 4 teeth on it were broken. Again we thought about how to solve the problem. Don’t buy a new device for 3400 just because of one gear... The solution was simple. I opened the temperature gauge motor and swapped the speedometer and temperature gears. Having empirically determined that broken teeth will not harm the temperature gauge. We collected everything except the temperature needles and speedometer. We connected it to the car and did a test so that the motors would drop to zero. Then I set the arrows evenly, ran the test, and lo and behold, everything works! Saved RUB 3,400.
see also
Comments 44
How was the problem solved? I have the same problem, tried several devices, same thing
Did you figure out what the reason was? Otherwise the same problem happened
The tidy was dead, but everything that was measured was with canshina, that’s why they didn’t work
Help me figure it out too, I start the car, move away, the arrows are on (revolutions, speedometer) after a few km they start working
During the test, these hands shake while standing still...
where to drip? what to do?
To change the color in the tidy, you just need to change the light bulbs and that’s it?
By the way, I also tinkered with it, changed the fuse, untwisted it and just made the contact tighter, then it started working on its own
I had the same thing, the car was parked clean for 2 weeks, I drove it around and it came back (tidy) to work on its own
Well, let's hope, although I have already planned to buy a new one!
Thank you all for your help, after all, the panel is dead, I’ll have to buy a new one (((
under the hood there is a fuse on board the network, etc. in the Murzilka, read it, I had a recharge on the 2110 and the shield froze...
Does anyone know if it is possible to replace the pointer motors? My tachometer is broken!
Anything is possible! It’s soldered in from another panel! I’ve never seen it separately!
