It shoots into the muffler, the reason is for the VAZ 2106 and other cars

Causes of “shots”, “pops” and flashes in the carburetor

1. High voltage cables are not connected correctly. In this case, the spark will not occur during compression, but on other strokes, since the sequence of operation of the engine cylinders is not followed. It happens that the engine appears periodically. In this case, the solution to the problem is to reinstall the wires from the spark plugs into the distributor cover. You need to start from the installation mark counterclockwise in the following order: 1-3-4-2.
2. Late ignition. Late ignition is when the spark jumps too late on the compression stroke, and combustion of the working mixture occurs throughout the entire power stroke, and not during compression. When the intake valves open, the fuel mixture is still burning and ignites a new portion.
3. Faulty ignition distributor. This problem can lead to problems with the operation of the motor in all modes. It also happens that “shooting” is provoked by weak fastening of the holder. Here it is important to understand the cause of the problem in time, and also replace the distributor with a new and working one.
4. The problem is in the ignition system switch. In this case, you just need to replace the switch with a new one. Repairing it is pointless and expensive; it is better to buy a new one and install it.
5. The timing belt has moved 1-2 teeth. Often this problem occurs when changing the motor. The solution requires reinstalling the timing belt. This can be done if you follow the instructions, but it is better, of course, to seek help from specialists.
6. Lean fuel system. If such a system enters the engine, then flashes and sparks are natural. The solution to the problem is to check the fuel fluid in the float chamber. You also need to check the cleanliness of the air and fuel jets. You can also clean the carburetor with a special solution. If the problem persists, you need to check whether the accelerator pump is working properly.
7. The intake valve is burnt out. If the plate is not pressed well against the valve, sparks will appear. It is quite possible that it burned out or sagged over time. Using a compression gauge you can identify the malfunction. If there is a problem, you need to remove the cylinder head and replace it with a new one.
8. Small recesses in the valve device. It happens that when repairing a motor, the recesses are made too small so that it creates less noise during operation. However, because of this, the plates do not fit tightly to the seats, which leads to shots in the carburetor. To eliminate the malfunction, you need to check and adjust the gaps.

Carburetor transition setting

While the engine is idling, the throttle valves are closed. A vacuum (vacuum) is formed under the dampers. Thanks to this vacuum, gasoline is sucked out through a small idle channel and nozzle, and the engine itself runs smoothly at idle. If you open the damper sharply, then the vacuum also weakens. Moreover, this vacuum is not enough for normal operation of the MDS (main dosing system) in the first chamber, and the idle system and accelerator pump are not yet capable of normalizing engine operation. In other words, when you sharply press the gas after idling, there is a delay in the response to pressing the accelerator pedal.

To minimize or completely eliminate this failure, a transition system is used in the carburetor device. This diagram is a hole-slot made above the throttle valve in the first chamber. At the moment you press the gas pedal, the slot-shaped hole appears in a zone of high vacuum, due to which intensive fuel suction occurs parallel to its supply through the idle jet.

Let's go back to the settings. After the carburetor has been installed, many cars experience a failure when starting from a stop, reactions to pressing the gas pedal are slow, and the engine may start shooting at the carburetor or stall. In such a situation, the transition system may be to blame. In order to normalize the operation of the carburetor, it is necessary to correctly select the cross-section of the “spout” of the accelerator pump and the size of the idle jet.

It is important to know that the nozzles in the first chamber do not need to be touched, and the indicated failures should not be attempted to be eliminated by replacing the nozzles of the main dosing system. To solve the problem, use a previously built carburetor to correctly select the idle jet and the accelerator pump spout. Selection must be carried out after the engine has warmed up, the choke must be removed

The selection must be made after the internal combustion engine has warmed up, the choke must be removed.

In practice it looks like this:

The level in the float chamber was previously set and the idle speed was adjusted. A warm engine idles normally without chugging. A stream of gasoline from the accelerator pump nozzle hits the manifold. Now you can sharply press the gas pedal. What is needed is the sharpness of the press, and not how hard the pedal was pressed (to the floor, half a stroke or ¼). Normally, the motor should immediately respond and spin up, that is, the speed increases without delays or failures. If the response to a sharp press on the accelerator is slow or there is a noticeable pause before the speed increases, then you should go to the settings.

To accurately determine the cause, you need to press the gas pedal again, but this time smoothly, not sharply

If in this case there is an even increase in speed (without pauses, dips or delays), then you should pay attention to the idle jet and the pump spout, since the main dosing system has nothing to do with the failure. If, when you gently press the gas, the engine spins up poorly, the unit itself begins to work jerkily, hums, vibrates strongly, etc., then the problem lies in the selection of jets for the first chamber. In other words, excessive enrichment or leanness of the mixture occurs after the carburetor switches to power mode after pressing the accelerator

An indirect sign of a too “rich” mixture during operation in transition mode is that the engine emits black smoke and the smell of gasoline comes from the exhaust system. The specified smoke and odor appear after sharp throttling

In other words, excessive enrichment or leanness of the mixture occurs after the carburetor switches to power mode after pressing the accelerator. An indirect sign of a too “rich” mixture during operation in transition mode is that the engine emits black smoke and the smell of gasoline comes from the exhaust system. The specified smoke and smell appear after sharp throttling.

To remove the dip, you must carefully select the idle jets to match the pump spout or vice versa. This is done until the delay disappears when you sharply press the accelerator pedal. In parallel with this, it may be necessary to re-adjust the idle speed, since replacing the XX jet will make changes to the operation of the idle system. Let us add that if the mixture remains lean and there is a dip, and the idle jet is too large and it is not possible to adjust the idle speed, then you can install a paired pump spout, after which both tubes are bent into the first float chamber.

General manifestation of the malfunction

Popping noises in the carburetor may appear under the following circumstances:

• after engine repair;
• there was an accident or a pothole on the road;
• tuning or simply adjustment of the carburetor was carried out;
• the car has high mileage.

In this case, a malfunction may occur in the following cases:

• when you press hard on the gas pedal;
• after parking, with a cold engine;
• on the go under load;
• when trying to start the engine.

Depending on the reason that caused the carburetor to shoot, popping noises can appear either abruptly or gradually, increasing in intensity daily. Operating a car when the engine sneezes into the carburetor, in addition to discomfort for the driver, can lead to the need for major engine repairs.

Poor starting of the VAZ 2107 engine in the cold season

Almost all the problems with the VAZ 2106 engine listed above are typical for the warm season. Poor starting of the “six” engine in winter should be discussed separately. The main reason for this phenomenon is obvious: frost. Due to the low temperature, the engine oil thickens, as a result, the starter simply cannot crank the crankshaft at a high enough speed. In addition, the oil in the gearbox also thickens. Yes, when the engine starts, the car is usually in neutral gear. But on it, the shafts in the gearbox are also rotated by the engine. And if the oil thickens, these shafts create a load on the starter. To prevent this from happening, you need to fully depress the clutch when the engine starts. Even if the car is in neutral gear. This will take the load off the starter and speed up the start of a cold engine. There are a number of other typical problems due to which the engine cannot start in cold weather. Let's list them:

• poor compression in the engine. This problem is very often observed in old “sixes” with high mileage: compression in the cylinders in the cold becomes very low. Not only can compression be low, but it can also be different. For example, in two cylinders it is normal, in the other two it is low. If the driver has found out that the reason for poor engine starting is low compression, and the car needs to be started urgently, then you should unscrew all the spark plugs and add a little engine oil to the combustion chambers (it is better to do this using a syringe - five “cubes” of oil in each cylinder will be sufficient). After this, you should crank the starter of the car several times without screwing in the spark plugs. The spark plugs are then screwed into place and the engine starts as the engine oil significantly increases compression in the cylinders (albeit only briefly). And to completely eliminate the problem, a major overhaul of the engine should be carried out. And in particular - replacing the piston rings. Without this, normal compression in the cylinders cannot be restored. There is another way to start a hopelessly frozen car: use the so-called starting fluid. It is sold in auto parts stores. It is injected directly into the carburetor (to do this, you will have to unscrew the air filter cover). And if you don’t want to tinker with the filter cover in the cold, you can unscrew the spark plugs and inject liquid into the combustion chambers. This is also an option, although not as effective;

  
  Starting fluid helps start even a completely frozen car

• bad spark. If in summer this moment in the “six” does not prevent the driver from starting the engine, then in winter the situation can change dramatically. Most often, the problem occurs due to poor contact in various plugs, especially those located on the ignition coil and on the distributor. The fact is that the plugs on these parts very often oxidize, and this causes a decrease in spark strength. Understanding how strong a spark is is very simple. The main wire is removed from the distributor and brought to the valve cover at a distance of one centimeter. Having secured the wire in this position, turn the starter several times. If a spark reaches the valve cover at a distance of one centimeter, then everything is fine with it. If not, you should carefully check all plugs and contacts for oxidation.

  
  It is best to hold the spark plug when checking the spark strength using pliers with insulated handles.

Featured Posts

Hurik

• Newbie
• Users
• 1
• 19 publications
• Car make: VAZ21063
• From:Donetsk

Hello. I have a VAZ21063 with a contact ignition Solex carburetor, the car started shooting at the carburetor when the 2-chamber was opened. I myself understand the ignition and the carburetor. I washed, blew out the carburetor, rebuilt the trampler, adjusted the valves, set the ignition, checked the compression to 10 in all, changed the spark plugs and wires, none of the above helped. Help who can.

Susanin33

• local
• VIP Member
• 66
• 1,503 publications
• Car make: VAZ – 21093
• From: Russia, Vladimir

Help who can.

lean mixture, early ignition, insufficient closing of the intake valve

Protva

• Mechanic
• VIP Member
• 356
• 6,001 publications
• Car make:Chevrolet Lanos SX
• From: south Mos. region

I'll add a blown gasket between the manifold and the head.

zhigalo

• Advanced
• Advanced Members
• 3
• 263 publications
• Car make: VAZ 2107
• From:Kostanay

Did you set the distributor according to the marks?

Hurik

• Newbie
• Users
• 1
• 19 publications
• Car make: VAZ21063
• From:Donetsk

lean mixture, early ignition, insufficient closing of the intake valve

I changed the 2-carb plus adjusted it, set the ignition earlier and later, checked the valves twice, measured the compression at 10 in all. Nothing has changed.

Hurik

• Newbie
• Users
• 1
• 19 publications
• Car make: VAZ21063
• From:Donetsk

I'll add a blown gasket between the manifold and the head.

the engine runs fine at XX, the tasol does not go away, the spark plugs c1-4 are red, the engine does not run louder. The car began to shoot at the carburetor when opening the 2nd chamber. What is the problem with the gasket between the manifold and the head????

Hurik

• Newbie
• Users
• 1
• 19 publications
• Car make: VAZ21063
• From:Donetsk

Did you set the distributor according to the marks?

Yes, according to the marks.

Susanin33

• local
• VIP Member
• 66
• 1,503 publications
• Car make: VAZ – 21093
• From: Russia, Vladimir

Yes, according to the marks.

vacuum advancer

Hurik

• Newbie
• Users
• 1
• 19 publications
• Car make: VAZ21063
• From:Donetsk

vacuum advancer

The vacuum corrector was checked to be normal, I even tried turning it off, no change.

Protva

• Mechanic
• VIP Member
• 356
• 6,001 publications
• Car make:Chevrolet Lanos SX
• From: south Mos. region

spark plugs s1-4 red

It is better to replace spark plugs with red insulator. Over time, they begin to break through to ground.

Sorrel

• Advanced
• Advanced Members
• 29
• 365 publications
• Car make: VAZ 21093
• From:Russia

I’ll get into the conversation, try to pull out the choke a little, and you’ll go for a ride. It’s quite possible that he’ll stop shooting, if he stops I’ll tell you what’s going on next))) If he continues to shoot, I won’t be able to do anything to help. And even if the car is warmed up, still open the choke a little while driving.

Hurik

• Newbie
• Users
• 1
• 19 publications
• Car make: VAZ21063
• From:Donetsk

I’ll get into the conversation, try to pull out the choke a little, and you’ll go for a ride. It’s quite possible that he’ll stop shooting, if he stops I’ll tell you what’s going on next))) If he continues to shoot, I won’t be able to do anything to help. And even if the car is warmed up, still open the choke a little while driving.

The choke really helps and the engine stops firing! what’s the matter??? share your guesses, is it really possible that the carb is fucking brains....?

Protva

• Mechanic
• VIP Member
• 356
• 6,001 publications
• Car make:Chevrolet Lanos SX
• From: south Mos. region

It's also interesting to know what the reason is. I can only assume that somewhere... I won’t guess. Waiting for Sorrel

.

Hurik

• Newbie
• Users
• 1
• 19 publications
• Car make: VAZ21063
• From:Donetsk

It is better to replace spark plugs with red insulator. Over time, they begin to break through to ground.

The spark plugs have nothing to do with it, I changed the same canoe.

Sorrel

• Advanced
• Advanced Members
• 29
• 365 publications
• Car make: VAZ 21093
• From:Russia

Do you have a temperature regulator? Today I personally encountered popping noises (in Moscow today it was -12), all this was due to the supply of Cold air, (I didn’t have a thermostat on the 9th) I installed it, the popping noises disappeared. So the problem with popping noises is that Pts gets into the carburetor. cold air. check the thermostat, maybe it hasn’t been working for a long time...

VAZochnik

• Newbie
• Users
• 0
• 9 publications
• Car make:VAZ 21061,VAZ 21074,VAZ 21124,
• From: Mordovia

If five carburetors have already been changed and there are no changes, then the problem is not with them (c).

In my opinion, you need to completely change the SZ distributor + coil. Take known good ones and see what changes. Start by replacing the coil; if that doesn’t help, change the distributor assembly.

I had a similar problem - that in the end it hurt - no one could explain. Some shouted that the capacitor on the distributor was broken, others that its bearing was jammed... It ended with the transition to BSZ. The troubles are over.

Motorist

• Advanced
• Advanced Members
• 17
• 375 publications
• Car make: VAZ 21074, Java 638.
• From: g. Pavlovo

In the winter, with the air cap turned off, my air pump would stall for the winter. You drive and drive, and suddenly the engine stalls. You wait for 10 minutes and you can go again. I turned the lid to winter time and that was it. And SZ has nothing to do with it. This is the same as trying to eliminate rear axle noise by changing the pump bearing.

n1ger

• Guru
• VIP Member
• 28
• 562 publications
• Car make:VAZik 21043
• From: Saldyukino

Idk... I drove around all winter with the switch turned off =)

and now the pan has been sawn apart =) it doesn’t seem to stall or fire...

although... there is... it happens... the scolex began to shoot (rarely, really, very rarely). I didn't notice this with ozone.

Hurik

• Newbie
• Users
• 1
• 19 publications
• Car make: VAZ21063
• From:Donetsk

Idk... I've been driving around all winter with the switch not turned =)
but now the pan has been sawn apart =) it doesn't seem to stall or fire...

although... there is... it happens... the scolex began to shoot (rarely, really, very rarely). I didn't notice this with ozone.

What kind of Solex, and what kind of jets are they?

n1ger

• Guru
• VIP Member
• 28
• 562 publications
• Car make:VAZik 21043
• From: Saldyukino

Solex 83-51... rebuilt =D

top from 83 regular, bottom from 83-51. I bored out the diffusers to 2324. I don't remember the jets.

seems like this:

TZh1 107.5 VZh1 150

TZh2 115 VZh2 165

(I can’t find a standard repair kit for 21053-20 =((( )

I installed the current accelerator nose from the Niva and that’s it.

Hurik

• Newbie
• Users
• 1
• 19 publications
• Car make: VAZ21063
• From:Donetsk

Guys, does anyone have a Solex08 without modifications on the 11th engine, and with what jets? Otherwise I’m stuck... surf the forums, one has some tariffs for jets, another has different ones, huh.. you’ll understand which ones are needed. I have

GTZH 1.K-97.5 GTZH 2.K-97.5 GVZH 1.K165 GVZH 2.K125

Hurik

• Newbie
• Users
• 1
• 19 publications
• Car make: VAZ21063
• From:Donetsk

AU...... Is it really possible that 518 people who read the topic cannot answer the last question asked!!!!!!!!!!!

Radio technician

• Master
• VIP Member
• 578
• 2,185 publications
• Car make: VAZ 21053
• From:Ekaterinburg

What does carb have to do with it? The chain is ground off faster and the phases are delayed. This includes closing the intake valve during early ignition. They put it on early because the engine doesn't work (?).

Hurik

• Newbie
• Users
• 1
• 19 publications
• Car make: VAZ21063
• From:Donetsk

What does carb have to do with it? The chain is ground off faster and the phases are delayed. This includes closing the intake valve during early ignition. They put it on early because the engine doesn't work (?).

My friend, you didn’t understand me, the problem with shooting into the carb was solved by increasing the valve clearance. Now the problem is the following, I recently installed a Solex 08 since my native ozone has worn out in 21 years, the jets on the Solex are as follows

GTZh 1.K-97.5 GTZh 2.K-97.5 GVZh 1.K165 GVZh 2.K125, at xx the engine is like a clock, on the 1st chamber it runs great, but on the 2nd chamber the car becomes stupid, jerks and there is no acceleration. Carb soap was blowing through the effect 0. What's the matter? Maybe the level in the PC or the jets is not what it should be?

ivan65

• Newbie
• Users
• 0
• 4 publications
• Car make: VAZ 2107
• From: Rostov

It is necessary to adjust the fuel pump pusher (either it sticks out a little or is worn out, if it is worn out, replace it with a new one) and this will most likely help. As a rule, the malfunction is on the surface - you just need to think about it.

Popping sounds from cars with HBO

Unfortunately, this problem also affects cars that use liquefied gas as fuel. According to statistics, owners of cars with injection engines and third-generation gas equipment most often encounter it.

Gas pops can be heard both in the intake manifold and in the exhaust system (in particular, in the muffler). There are two main reasons for this:

• There is no stable and sufficient gas supply . This occurs due to incorrect settings of the gas reducer or a clogged air filter. For fuel-injected cars, the culprit may be the mass air flow sensor (MAF). “Glitches” in its operation lead to incorrect operation of the electronics. That is, we get a lean or enriched gas mixture, resulting in popping noises.
• Incorrect ignition angle . In this case, the situation is similar to that described above. If the ignition is late, the muffler “slams”, if it is early, the intake manifold or filter.

Monitor the status of your HBO and its settings. Don't neglect problems when they arise. Otherwise, you may not only face expensive repairs, but also spontaneous combustion of the car’s power unit.

Conclusion

Popping noises from the exhaust pipe are signs of a non-critical , but rather unpleasant “illness”. In addition to external manifestations, the engine and exhaust system deteriorate, and excessive fuel consumption occurs, which leads to unnecessary waste of money for the car owner. Also, if the problem is ignored for a long time, the valve, exhaust pipe, resonator or muffler may burn out. In general, if such a breakdown occurs the machine can be used , but it is recommended to carry out repair work at the first opportunity. If you cannot or do not want to do them yourself, contact a service station for help.

Concurrent symptoms

As a rule, the situation is accompanied by a number of other signs:

• unstable operation of the internal combustion engine in idle mode;
• difficulty starting;
• loss of power and throttle response of the power unit;
• rapid overheating of the motor;
• increase in fuel consumption.

Note also that in such a situation the car accelerates poorly. When you press the accelerator pedal, jerks, dips, and delays appear. The car jerks a lot, especially in transition modes. The power plant does not so much work as “sneeze.”

Problems with injection cars

According to statistics, the problem of shots in the muffler is more often encountered by owners of carburetor cars. However, it can also occur with a fuel-injected car. However, their reasons for popping are different.

In such machines, the engine operation is controlled by the ECU based on information from numerous sensors. And if any of them gives false information, this leads to incorrect motor control. For example, if the air intake sensor is faulty, this will lead to incorrect formation of the fuel mixture. You should also check the crankshaft position sensor. If it provides information about a displacement of one tooth, this will also lead to incorrect operation of the system. The throttle position sensor, Hall sensor and other elements may fail.

The very first thing you should do is conduct computer diagnostics of your car. It will show which sensor or engine element is having problems. When the muffler is fired, it is also advisable to check the injector using computer diagnostics.

Can a bang in the muffler damage the engine?

Shots in the exhaust system are considered a consequence of failures in engine adjustment and a violation of its settings.

This indicates the need to check three systems - ignition, timing and fuel supply.

If you delay repairs, there is a high risk of engine damage.

Untimely restoration can lead to damage to the integrity of the valves, malfunction of the exhaust system, and even a car fire.

The only positive aspect of “sneezing” is the ability to detect a malfunction in advance and take action.

During the repair process, a comprehensive check of the internal combustion engine, adjustments and installation of new consumables are often necessary.

The starter works, the engine starts and then stalls

In some situations, the car owner cannot start the engine of his “six” even if the starter is working properly. It looks like this: after turning the ignition key, the starter makes two or three turns, the engine “seizes”, but literally stalls a second later. This happens because of this:

• The fuel pump is not working properly. The situation is simple: very little fuel is supplied to the combustion chamber, and literally after one engine stroke the supply of the fuel mixture stops. There is only one way out: remove the pump, disassemble it and carefully inspect it for wear and mechanical damage. If the problem is really in it, change it;
• the fuel line is clogged. This is another reason why little fuel mixture enters the combustion chambers of the “six”. It's no secret that the quality of gasoline in our country leaves much to be desired. Modern gasoline contains a lot of foreign impurities, which are gradually deposited on a variety of surfaces - from the inner walls of combustion chambers to fuel pipes. If the fuel pump and starter are working properly, but the car still won’t start, then it’s time to remove and clean the fuel line. This is best done using ordinary kerosene;
• one or more injectors are clogged. If checking the fuel pump and fuel pipes does not lead to anything, there is one more option: unscrew and check the injectors. They keep getting clogged because of the same low-quality gasoline. And when clogged, they wash everything in the same kerosene;
• armored wire closure. If no problems have been identified with the fuel supply system, but the car still does not start, you should pay attention to the ignition system, and in particular, to the so-called armored pipes. If the integrity of the insulation of one or more wires is broken, and the insulation at the damage site turns black, then there is a short circuit. A spark plug with a damaged wire cannot produce a spark normally, as a result the engine stalls before it can start. There is only one way out of this situation: purchasing and installing a new set of spark plug wires;

  
  If at least one high-voltage wire breaks down, you will have to buy a new set

• Timing belt misalignment. The timing belt, like all other parts of the 6 engine, wears out over time. Sometimes it happens that it jumps off the timing shaft gear and moves a couple of teeth. As a result, the timing of the valve timing is disrupted and the engine does not start. If there is a suspicion that the belt is misaligned, the driver will have to unscrew the timing cover (it is held on by six bolts) and inspect the shafts. The worn belt is replaced with a new one, after which the timing phases are adjusted. You can learn how this is done from the VAZ 2106 operating instructions.

  
  The timing belt on a VAZ 2106 may fly off or shift by several teeth, which will cause a timing shift

Video: poor engine starting in summer due to accumulation of gasoline vapors

High voltage wires

When carrying out repairs affecting the ignition system, the high-voltage wires may be connected incorrectly. In this case, the spark will not occur in time with the compression cycle, resulting in popping sounds. Even if the engine starts, its power is not enough to move the car.

To diagnose a malfunction, you should check the connection of the wires from the spark plugs to the distributor. You should push off from the mark located on the cover. The connection of high-voltage wires must correspond to the car model. For example, the location of high-voltage wires in the VAZ 2109 is shown below.

Correct connection of high-voltage wires VAZ 2109

Checking the spark plugs and spark

If the engine does not start within five seconds, there is no use turning the starter. You can try to start it again, but it’s unlikely to help. Moreover, operating the starter for too long can lead to overheating and even fire.

If you try to start a carburetor engine for a long time, gasoline will flood the spark plugs and make further starting attempts impossible in principle. The injectors have a purge mode, so the spark plugs can be dried without removing them from the car - you just need to press the gas pedal to the floor and turn the starter.

But these are half measures. First of all, you should unscrew at least one spark plug, put the wire back on it and position the spark plug on the engine so that there is a distance of about three millimeters between the metal part of the spark plug and the metal of the engine. Turn on the starter and make sure that there is a uniform spark between the spark plug contacts. Do this check for each candle. If there is no spark on any spark plug, then there are global problems in the ignition system.

General faults:

1. Faulty spark plugs (carbon deposits, destruction of insulator)
2. The high-voltage wires are faulty (the insulation is broken, the current flows “to the left”, not reaching the spark plug)

For injectors:

1. Ignition module is faulty
2. There is no power to the ignition module. Power is supplied from the engine control unit, but the signal to the unit comes from the ignition switch. Therefore, there may be a malfunction of the ignition switch contact group.
3. Engine control unit faulty

Errors in the ignition control system are usually visible during diagnostics and cause the Check Engine light to turn on.

1. Contact carbon stuck in the ignition distributor cap (distributor)
2. Resistor burnout in the distributor rotor (in the distributor runner)
3. Burning or play of the contact group (for contact ignition)
4. Switch malfunction (for contactless ignition)
5. Ignition coil malfunction
6. No power to the coil. Power is supplied to the coil through the ignition switch, so it is worth checking its contact group

When there is no spark on only one spark plug, you need to replace this spark plug with a new one or change its high-voltage wire. Spark plugs that are too wet should also be replaced with new ones or at least dried in a flame. This is necessary because current will not be able to pass through wet contacts and there will be no spark.

If there is a spark on all spark plugs, check the fuel supply.

Why does it shoot at the silencer?

The main reason that the engine shoots into the muffler is unburned fuel that has entered the exhaust system and ignited in it. The more gasoline leaks out, the louder the bang will be, and in some cases there may even be a whole series of “shots.” In turn, fuel can enter the exhaust system for various reasons. These could be malfunctions of the carburetor, timing belt, ignition system, various sensors (on injection machines) and so on.

The situation when someone shoots into the exhaust pipe can occur under different circumstances. For example, when over-accelerating, at idle speed of the engine or when relieving gas. As a rule, when there is a bang, a large amount of smoke . This malfunction is also accompanied by additional symptoms - loss of engine power, floating idle speed, increased fuel consumption. Let's look at the reasons why the muffler shoots in order, as well as methods for troubleshooting.

Causes of fuel microexplosions outside the engine

1. The contents of the combustion chambers penetrate the muffler when gas is released if the ignition timing is set incorrectly. A few degrees of error is enough for such an unpleasant phenomenon to occur. Automatic adjustment of this parameter is rare in most modern vehicles.
2. Unburnt material enters the muffler when gas is released because the ignition module is broken. The operation of the engine pistons is not synchronized with the supply of a spark. The more serious the violation, the more regularly the characteristic clapping sound is heard.
3. The on-board computer is faulty. The electronics give false signals and the fuel does not have time to burn. When revving the throttle, the popping noise in the muffler is especially audible.
4. The problem is in the spark plug wires. The driver violated the order of their joining. Popping noises in the muffler when releasing gas appear immediately after improper handling of spark plugs.
5. The camshaft and valves are worn out, poorly fitted, and have cracks. Through them, the contents of the combustion chambers penetrate into the muffler when gas is released. In such a situation, a characteristic popping sound is heard when heating up and further driving.
6. Violations in electronic control of valve timing. More and more unburnt material will end up in the muffler when the gas is released. Debugging required.
7. A timing belt tooth has come off. The gear clings weakly to the part and slippage occurs.
8. Slippage occurs because the timing belt has become too stretched.
9. The timing settings are incorrect, the exhaust channels open early, the pressure pushes part of the combustible mixture into the muffler when the gas is released. The reason is typical for VAZs. Special recesses prevent the valves from bending, and gas distribution rarely fails. Suspicion of a timing belt failure is a reason to immediately go to a service station. Further operation leads to failure of pistons, valves, and the need for major repairs of the heart of the vehicle - the engine. Popping noises in the muffler when releasing gas indicate probable major problems.
10. Quiet crackling pops in the muffler at idle occur when there is minor damage to the damper or gasket under the manifold.
11. Failure of the carburetor float chamber needle valve leads to gasoline leaking into the muffler when gas is released.
12. The carburetor malfunctions because the throttle valve is not adjusted; an excessive amount of fuel is supplied to the cylinders, which flies into the muffler when the gas is released.
13. Clogged carburetor air filter. A simple problem that can easily be fixed on your own.
14. Does the car have an injector? Gasoline enters the muffler during gas release due to sensor failure. In a normal situation, they control the flow of the air-fuel mixture. Why does the muffler shoot? There is too much fuel and not enough air in the mixture. Explosions also occur at idle speed. In fuel-injected cars, problems with fuel explosions in the exhaust system rarely occur.
15. The seal of the motor float is broken.
16. Parts of the idle system - the channel, the air jet - are clogged. When gas is released, gasoline enters the muffler and a characteristic sound is heard.
17. The economizer is not working properly.

Conclusion: the most likely “culprits” for the fact that the contents of the combustion chambers get into the muffler when venting gas are the ignition system, timing belt, carburetor. The driver can independently replace the air filter and adjust the carburetor valves. It didn’t help - urgently go to the service station. Manufacturers recommend visiting auto mechanics as soon as it is discovered that fuel gets into the muffler when venting gas. The locksmith will conduct professional diagnostics and eliminate the problem. There is no point in postponing, risking the serviceability of the car, or your own life. True, in some situations you can try to cope on your own.

Mixture composition

If the engine is supplied with a too lean or rich mixture, then shooting is also possible. This situation may arise if the carburetor has been adjusted. Incorrect installation of the quality screw leads to incorrect preparation of the air-fuel mixture.

When operating on a lean mixture, the mixture burns slowly. When the intake valve opens, fuel continues to burn out. It ignites a new combustible mixture. Combustion occurs in the intake manifold and the engine shoots into the carburetor. At the same time, an increase in engine temperature is observed.

When working with an enriched mixture, black carbon deposits form on the electrodes. If there is enough plaque and a high temperature, it can ignite the air-fuel mixture at the wrong time. This causes the carburetor to pop as the intake valve is open at this time. This malfunction only appears when the engine is warm. Gradually the engine sneezes more and more often. A significant drop in power in this case is extremely rare.

For diagnosis, you should inspect the spark plugs. The presence of a white color indicates operation on a lean mixture. Black plaque, on the contrary, indicates over-enrichment.

To eliminate the malfunction, the carburetor should be inspected. If adjustment does not help, then flushing is required. You should also be careful about the fuel purchased at gas stations.

Clogged air filter

Air filters

One of the reasons why muffler pops is an incorrectly formed fuel mixture. To create it, you need gasoline and a certain amount of air. It enters the engine through a system that contains an air filter at the inlet. If it is clogged, it does not allow a sufficient volume of air to pass through it, so the result is a kind of “oxygen starvation” of the engine. As a result, gasoline does not burn completely , and some of it flows into the manifold and then enters the exhaust gas removal system. There the fuel heats up and explodes. Because of this, a kind of pop is produced in the muffler.

Eliminating the cause of this phenomenon is not difficult. It is necessary to check the condition of the air filter and replace it if necessary. This is especially true if you haven’t changed the filter for a long time, but according to the regulations, such a procedure already needs to be done. This is the simplest problem why the muffler shoots. Let's move on.

Late and early ignition

With late ignition, combustion of the air-fuel mixture occurs throughout the entire power stroke. When the intake valve opens, the burning old mixture ignites fresh fuel. The engine overheats significantly during such operation. Popping noises can be observed not only in the carburetor, but also in the muffler.

For diagnostics, it is recommended to check the set ignition timing and, if necessary, adjust it. Whitened spark plug electrodes serve as indirect evidence of late ignition.

If the spark appears too early, the fuel will not ignite in a timely manner. In this case, the intake valve does not have time to close, and the combustible mixture inside the intake manifold ignites.

Particular attention should be paid to the OZ if work was carried out to repair the ignition system. It is required to produce the moment of sparking. The ignition timing is adjusted by turning the distributor relative to the scale.

Inspection of the ignition timing

Doesn't start in winter

The problems described above mainly occur in the summer, but there are also a number of breakdowns in which the VAZ stops starting in the cold. Here the main reason remains frost. Because of it, in particular, the lubricant thickens, which prevents the crankshaft from rotating normally. A simple trick will help relieve the load - just when you start the engine, squeeze the clutch all the way.

Trouble also arises due to decreased compression in the cylinders. A similar problem is typical for Zhiguli cars with high mileage. This requires a thorough overhaul of the engine under stationary conditions with the obligatory replacement of rings and piston seals.

When you need to at least make it to the garage or service station, do this:

• turn out the spark plugs;
• pour no more than 5 cubic centimeters of oil (regular motor oil) into the combustion chambers;
• crank the starter several times by hand;
• put the spark plugs on and start.

If the engine is hopelessly frozen, you will have to use starting fluid - this composition is easy to buy in specialized stores. The substance must be poured directly into the carburetor. To gain access there, unscrew the cap on the air filter.

Sometimes the problem is caused by a weak spark on the spark plugs. On hot summer days, this circumstance does not interfere with starting the engine, but in cold weather the situation changes radically. The problem is created due to poor contact at the terminals of the ignition coil and distributor. Disconnect them, clean them from oxides and dirt.

Carburetor not tuned

Often the reason that the engine shoots into the muffler is an incorrectly configured carburetor. Its task is to create a fuel-air mixture, which is then supplied to the engine. If it is configured in such a way that the mixture is oversaturated with gasoline, a situation similar to that described above is created. The solution here is to check and adjust the “carb”.

The first step is to check the fuel level in the chamber where the float is located. Each carburetor is individually adjusted and has its own level. However, if its cover is removed, the float should be flush with the level of the cover. If this is not the case, adjust the level. Also be sure to check the integrity of the float . If it is damaged, fuel may leak into it, causing it to display the level incorrectly.

The reason that the carburetor shoots into the muffler may also be the jets. They are either configured incorrectly or become clogged over time. If the air jet does not supply enough air, the mixture becomes oversaturated with gasoline with the result described above. Often this malfunction occurs when the engine goes from idle to higher speeds, or with a sharp increase in speed (acceleration). It is necessary to check the condition of the jets and clean them if necessary.

The starter does not want to turn

As practice shows, the most obvious reason that prevents the engine of the 2106 model from starting is the starter. The last unit often does not even try to rotate after the ignition is activated.

This usually happens because the battery is low. The malfunction occurs both when the engine is cold and when it is still hot. An easy way to find out if this is the case is to turn on your headlights. Then it remains to see how brightly they glow. When the batteries are discharged, they light up dimly or do not turn on at all. What to do is clear - put the battery on charge.

Sometimes the problem is caused by improper contact at the battery terminals. Over time, they oxidize and stop conducting current normally, which is why they prevent the starter from working. Wherein:

• instrument lighting is functioning;
• the headlights are on;
• The cigarette lighter does not get hot.

Clean the VAZ-2106 battery terminals with fine sandpaper.

The next reason is a breakdown of the ignition switch. Finding out whether it works or not is quite simple. Disconnect the wires from it and short-circuit them. If the starter spins, then the fault has been found.

The solenoid relay may fail on your VAZ-2106. This is indicated by the following sign: when you turn the key, the starter remains motionless, but clicks are heard. Diagnosis is carried out as follows:

• find the relay;
• close two contacts equipped with nuts on it;
• try starting the car.

The engine starts working, which means the problem is solved.

The starter also stops turning due to:

• abrasion of brushes (replace with new ones);
• breakdown of winding insulation (buy a new unit).

Diagnostics

You can diagnose the condition of the engine and the operation of the fuel system using spark plugs. If the center electrode of the spark plug is white, this indicates that the engine is running on a lean mixture. If the carbon deposits are black and dry, then this indicates a rich mixture.

To eliminate this problem, it is recommended to adjust the carburetor. It is better to use a gas analyzer, since settings that rely on human senses do not always give the desired result. In addition, you need to choose a gas station before buying fuel - sometimes black deposits can form due to the quality of gasoline.

The starter turns, but the engine does not start

This kind of trouble usually happens due to a broken timing belt. It is this element of the VAZ-2106 that the owner needs to look at first of all. If suspicions are confirmed, then it will have to be replaced with a new one. When the belt is intact, then look further - the reason may be a faulty spark plug or fuel pump.

• activate the ignition;
• wait until the starter rotates 7-10 times;
• Unscrew and inspect the spark plugs.

When they remain completely dry, this means that gasoline is not entering the combustion chamber, and, therefore, the pump is to blame. Confirm your guess - turn on the ignition again and listen: the functioning pump makes a characteristic hum. Silence indicates a node failure - change it.

The pump on 2106 hums, fuel flows, but the car does not start. Do this:

• touch the spark plug to the engine body;
• ask someone to turn on the ignition;
• If there is no spark, change the entire set.

Switch failure

Typically, a breakdown of the switch makes it impossible to start the engine, so popping noises will be observed when trying to start. To diagnose, just install a new device. If the motor stops firing, then the switch needs to be replaced or repaired. What to do depends on the type of breakdown and the capabilities of the car owner.

Very often this malfunction can be detected at an early stage. The engine speed begins to fluctuate, and when you sharply press the gas pedal, the car accelerates with dips in traction. Small popping noises are heard from the engine compartment.

Starter does not turn

The most common reason why a VAZ 2106 refuses to start is usually related to the starter of this car. Sometimes the starter categorically refuses to rotate after turning the key in the ignition. This is why:

• The battery has run out. The first thing an experienced V6 owner checks is the condition of the battery. This is very simple to do: you need to turn on the low beam headlights and see if they shine brightly. If the battery is very low, the headlights will shine very dimly or not at all. The solution is obvious: you should remove the battery from the car and charge it using a portable charger;
• one of the terminals is oxidized or poorly screwed. If there is no contact at the battery terminals or this contact is very weak due to oxidation of the contacting surfaces, the starter will not rotate either. In this case, the low beam headlights can shine normally, and all the lights on the instrument panel will light up properly. But there is not enough charge to crank the starter. Solution: after each unscrewing of the terminals, they should be thoroughly cleaned with fine sandpaper, and then a thin layer of lithol should be applied to the contact surfaces. This will protect the terminals from oxidation, and problems with the starter will no longer arise;

Video: a common problem with the starter on a “classic”

Incorrect thermal clearance

The thermal gap is the distance by which individual parts of the engine increase in volume when heated. In particular, it is between the valve tappets and the camshaft cams. An incorrectly set thermal gap is one of the possible reasons why the muffler shoots.

Indirect evidence of an increase in the thermal gap may be increased noise during engine operation, as well as a decrease in its power. If the gap is reduced, this may cause gases to shoot into the exhaust pipe. This occurs due to the fact that a valve that is not completely closed allows gasoline to enter the manifold, from where it then enters the exhaust system.

The thermal clearance of the cylinder head valves can be adjusted. Therefore, to eliminate this problem, it is enough to adjust the valves. This procedure is always carried out on a cold engine.

The car won't start

Another problem that car owners face is shots in the muffler at the time of start-up.

The situation looks like this. The driver tries to start the car, starting does not happen, but there are quiet shots in the exhaust system.

If nothing is done, the next attempt may be fatal for the muffler - there is a high risk of damage due to an explosion.

In such a situation it is worth:

• Inspect and replace spark plugs if the electrodes are dirty.
• Assess the condition of the timing belt and, if necessary, tighten it or change it.
• Check the crankshaft position sensor and replace it (if it fails).
• Measure the pressure in the fuel line. If it is below three, the pump needs to be replaced.
• Check the compression in the engine. One of the reasons why the muffler shoots is because the rings are stuck. One option is to drain the oil and fill the cylinders with kerosene. After this, you need to twist the spark plugs and turn the starter. The machine must stand, then the kerosene is drained and oil is added. Now you can try to start the engine again.
• Disconnect the DTOZh sensor and start the engine with the device turned off. This action allows you to more accurately determine the cause.

POPULAR WITH READERS: What to do if the Ford Mondeo does not start when cold?

Faulty timing belt

Malfunctions in the operation of the gas distribution mechanism are generally similar to problems with ignition. In particular, the exhaust valve opens at a time when the gasoline has not yet burned out. Accordingly, it enters the exhaust gas removal system, leading to the already familiar popping sounds in the muffler.

There are several causes of malfunctions in the timing system:

• Timing belt wear . A sign of this malfunction is the appearance of additional metallic pops or noises when the engine is running at low speeds. In this case, you need to inspect the belt and, if necessary, tighten or replace it. You can read how to do this in the corresponding material.
• Worn toothed pulley . In this case, it is necessary to replace it.
• Partial valve failure . Over time, they become covered with soot (especially when refueling the car with low-quality gasoline), which leads to deterioration in the operation of the mechanism. And due to hanging valve springs, the engine overheats. Therefore, it is worth checking the valves. If you find slight roughness or bends on their surface, then grinding them in is a mandatory procedure. If the scratches are significant, you need to polish them or replace the valves.

Usually, if the timing belt is faulty, popping noises in the muffler are heard when the engine is warm . If the engine is “cold”, then they are not there. This is another indirect evidence of the timing's guilt. However, to find out exactly, it is necessary to perform additional diagnostics.

Additional reasons

There are a number of other reasons why the exhaust pipe shoots. These include:

• Popping noises when idling the engine are possible for two reasons - a leak in the intake manifold, as well as a clogged idle system.
• Poor quality gasoline or gasoline with a low octane number. Try to refuel at reputable gas stations and use fuel recommended by the manufacturer of your car.
• Mixed spark plug wires . If, when replacing or checking spark plugs, you mixed up the wires connected to them, this will also be a likely cause of popping noises. In this case, the car may not start and “shoot” at the muffler.
• If your machine has an economizer , check its operation. Often the malfunction of this unit is also the cause of “shots”.
• Malfunction of the air damper . Check this element and adjust if necessary.
• One of the reasons when the muffler shoots when releasing gas is that the muffler downpipe ( “pants” ) is poorly screwed to the exhaust manifold. Check the tightness of the connection and tighten it if necessary.
• Another likely cause of popping noises is high performance fuel injectors (“leaking”). They supply too much fuel, which does not have time to burn completely, which leads to “shots”. There is a simple way to check. It is necessary to try to start the engine at high engine speeds (with the gas pedal depressed) (the so-called purge mode). If popping noises occur at this time, it means that at least one injector is leaking.
• In injection cars, late ignition and, as a result, popping noises can be caused by “fatigue” of the knock sensor . It can also respond to extraneous noises occurring in the engine. The operation of the sensor must be checked using computer diagnostics.
• If the muffler shoots when releasing gas , then one of the most common reasons for this is “burning” of the exhaust valves. Popping noises may also appear when descending a mountain in gear. Inspect and clean them.
• If your car uses a contact ignition system, then you need to check the gap on its contacts . Ignition problems, as described above, may be the reason that not all of the gasoline is burned.
• Leakage of the gas exhaust system . In this case, as a rule, single pops occur when the gas is released. First of all, check the gaskets at the connections of the pipes (catalyst, resonator, muffler).

Also, if lumbago occurs and traction deteriorates, it is recommended to check the fuel pressure in the system, as well as compression (cylinder tightness for leaks), and inspect the ignition coil.

Condensation in the muffler

The main reason for the formation of condensation in the muffler is the temperature difference between the ambient air and the muffler. Its formation in a car with a working catalyst is a natural phenomenon. It’s worse if it’s not there, but too much can cause corrosion. There is a Read more

As you can see, there are many reasons why a muffler shoots. Therefore, we advise you to start your diagnostics by checking the tightness of the exhaust system. Inspect the bolted connections and gaskets between its individual elements. This will save you time and money. This is especially true if popping noises are heard when releasing the gas or when descending a mountain in gear (when braking the engine).

If the audit does not give positive results, then it is necessary to check the operation of the carburetor, valves and other parts described above. This check is advisable if the muffler shoots when you press the gas .

Inlet valve

A bent or burnt valve is unable to seal the combustion chamber from the carburetor. Loose pressure of the plate to the seat allows gases to break into the intake manifold. In some cases, the fresh air-fuel mixture ignites.

To diagnose the problem, you need to check the compression. If a cylinder is detected with a suspected combustion chamber leak, it is necessary to fill it with engine oil. This will prevent excessive wear of the cylinder-piston group or sticking of the piston rings. A cylinder with a damaged valve shows the same compression both with and without oil.

To eliminate the malfunction, it is necessary to dismantle the cylinder head and replace the valve. If the valve is bent, it is recommended to check the correct timing of the timing belt. Burnout of the valve with low mileage also requires searching for the cause of this breakdown.

If you have hydraulic boosters, you should also check their operation. Sticking of the hydraulic compensator leads to the same consequences as burnout of the valve. In this case, shooting into the carburetor may not be observed all the time, but during certain periods, for example, when the engine is cold or hot. Very often, car owners complain that they shoot when I start the engine.

Disturbances in the operation of the gas distribution mechanism

Starting the engine will be accompanied by shots into the carburetor if the timing phases are out of whack, that is, the drive has jumped several teeth. In this case, if the shift is 1-2 teeth, the engine will be able to operate, but there will be a loss of power. But with a significant timing shift, the valves can be damaged. In this case, you cannot do without engine repair.

Reasons that cause shift of the gas distribution mechanism drive:

• when performing repair work on the engine, the phases are inattentively set;
• belt replacement;
• low tension, sufficient to cause slippage;
• the car gets into an accident or a pothole;
• Excessive wear of timing elements.

Installation marks for checking the correct timing of timing

To diagnose the malfunction, it is necessary to check the timing marks on the crankshaft pulley and the housing. Troubleshooting depends on the effects of phase shift. In some cases, it is enough to correct the operation of the timing belt, but if the pistons hit the valves, it is impossible to do without repairing the engine.

If you notice a timing shift, you should not try to start the engine, much less apply gas, checking the possibility of travel. Starting the internal combustion engine is possible only after the timing marks have been correctly placed and the cause that caused the shift has been eliminated. Otherwise, the motor may be significantly damaged.

Distributor

This unit is also capable of causing untimely and improper ignition of the fuel mixture in the engine cylinders. Malfunctions of the ignition distributor include breakdown of the cover, breakdown of the slider, and oxidation of the contacts of the explosive wires.

To determine whether the distributor is the cause of popping noises in the VAZ carburetor, install a known-good unit. If the lumbago disappears, then you need to diagnose the distributor and troubleshoot it. This is the only way to get rid of pops.

Let's analyze situations for different cars

Now let’s look at the causes of the malfunction in relation to certain car models:

VAZ 2106, VAZ 2109.

And other representatives of the domestic automobile industry are susceptible to the appearance of shots in the muffler. A common cause is a misconfiguration in the ignition system.

The spark fires, but with a delay, at the moment the exhaust valve opens, and not at the moment of greatest compression.

The result is that part of the combustible mixture ends up in the manifold.

The reasons may be the following:

• Incorrect advance angle adjustment;
• Failure of the ignition module;

• Weak spark;
• Incorrect installation of wires on spark plugs;
• Failures in timing settings;
• Belt stretching and slipping in the timing system.

If shots in the muffler appear when the gas is pressed in VAZ 2106 and VAZ 2109 cars (at low speeds), the cause may be a violation of the valve clearance.

In its absence, part of the fuel ends up in the collector, and the consequences in question become inevitable. The solution to the problem is to replace the valves or adjust them.

For cars of the brands in question with an injector, this problem is also typical, but it appears less frequently.

A common cause is a timing fault, incorrect ignition setting, or thermal gap failure.

Here it is recommended to check the correct operation of the sensors and the quality of the contact connections.

If these elements do not function correctly, the ECU system will not be able to distribute fuel correctly.

To identify such a problem, it is recommended to contact specialists at a service station.

VAZ 2114, VAZ 2115, injector.

Why does the muffler shoot but the engine won't start? If a breakdown is detected, it is recommended to start with the spark plugs and blow them out by cranking the starter and firing the gas to the floor.

The next step is to check the performance of the DPKV. The algorithm is as follows:

• Dismantle the device and perform an external inspection. Suspicion should be caused by damage to the housing, core, sensor or terminal block. The wire connections must be clean. If there is dirt on the contacts, they can be removed using an alcohol-gasoline mixture. The result of the work should be complete cleaning of dirt and dust.

• Check the active resistance of the DPKV. Measurements are made between the first and second contacts on the sensor block. For measurements, you can use a special voltmeter or multimeter. The optimal resistance is 550-700 Ohms. It is advisable to do the test at room temperature (20-22 degrees Celsius). When determining the final result, it is important to take into account the instrument error.
• Measure the inductance of the winding between the same contacts. It should be 250-420 mH.
• Make sure that the insulation between the terminals and the core of the device is at an optimal level. A 500 V megohmmeter is used for measurement. The nominal resistance is about 20 MΩ.

During braking by the ZMZ 402 engine, shots are heard in the muffler.

In such a situation, it is worth starting ignition checks and paying attention to the distributor. You can crawl through the hole of the latter and bend the whiskers, which will increase the tension of the springs.

The problem may arise if the car is parked on the street for a long time. Here's what you need to do:

• Check the contact breaker - make sure that the gap between the contacts is normal and that they are clean.

• If there is an electronic switch on the machine, it is worth checking it. If you suspect that the device is broken, you should install a known-good device.
• Check the distributor for the presence of moisture, which may accumulate under the cover during long-term parking.
• Make sure the wires are intact. If you suspect they are damaged, you should install a silicone connection.

Some car owners “sin” with the carburetor, but in ZMZ 402 engines it is rarely the cause of “shooting”.

Most often we are talking about misfires, so special attention should be paid to the ignition system.

One of the likely causes is contamination of the breaker contacts. After cleaning them, the problem should be resolved.

Why does it shoot at the muffler on a UAZ?

Owners of cars from the Ulyanovsk plant are also faced with the problem of shots fired during the start-up and movement of the car.

The reasons may be as follows:

• Early ignition;
• Malfunction of the distributor;
• Increased slider play;
• Large valve clearance or burnout.

Of the listed reasons, the most common are ignition problems.

There is another assumption - malfunction of the spark plugs due to the formation of water condensation on the high-voltage wires or under the distributor cover.

The spark hits the ground, and fuel floods the electrodes. In such a situation, it is necessary to change the spark plugs, distributor cap and wires. In 90% of cases the problem is solved and the motor runs without problems.

If the engine runs normally when cold with the choke tightened, this indicates the absence of failures.

There may be cases when the car “sneezes” when stopped. Here we can conclude about failures in the operation of the twentieth century system, as well as failures in the transition system.

There are two more possible reasons:

• The fuel level has dropped to a minimum, and the car pulls poorly even on choke.
• Small current on the ignition coil, due to poor contact or the presence of additional resistance.

Why does it shoot into the muffler on Gazelle cars?

The general reason is one - the fuel does not burn completely. There are several options:

• The mixture is too rich. To fix the problem, you need to press the gas several times while parking.
• Misfires. If this problem is present, the silencer will shoot constantly.
• Late ignition. Here, additional symptoms will be increased consumption, engine overheating or decreased power.

If the popping noise occurs not when you press the gas, but when you release it, the fuel mixture is too saturated with oxygen.

It is worth checking the operation of the octane corrector, and replacing the old carburetor tubes with silicone analogues. Often rubber products are damaged and it is not possible to find the fault.

Another possible problem is a slippage of the rod in the distributor. To check this fact, you need to remove the tube and create a vacuum with your mouth.

At this moment, you should look at the distributor - it should rotate, and when released, it should click.

Ignition timing

Now let's figure out how late ignition affects it.

Another reason that fuel explodes in the muffler is due to ignition problems.

To confirm or exclude this assumption, it is necessary to check the correct setting of the timing in the ignition system. If the latter is set up late, shots cannot be avoided.

This is due to the fact that the spark fires with a delay, already at the moment the exhaust valve opens. As a result, a certain volume of fuel ends up in the collector.

If you ignore the problem, there is a high risk of burning out the valves and exhaust pipe.

If there are no problems with the ignition, and it is configured correctly, shots still appear at the moment of starting or driving.

The reasons may be the following:

1. Weak spark.
2. Bad wire contacts.
3. Malfunction in the distributor or contact group.

One of the reasons for the deterioration in spark quality is a problem with the spark plugs, so you need to unscrew each of them one by one and check the quality of the contacts.

The muffler may still fire due to an incorrectly selected spark plug heat rating.