General manifestation of the malfunction
Popping noises in the carburetor may appear under the following circumstances:
- after engine repair;
- there was an accident or a pothole on the road;
- tuning or simply adjustment of the carburetor was carried out;
- the car has high mileage.
In this case, a malfunction may occur in the following cases:
- when you press hard on the gas pedal;
- after parking, with a cold engine;
- on the go under load;
- when trying to start the engine.
Depending on the reason that caused the carburetor to shoot, popping noises can appear either abruptly or gradually, increasing in intensity daily. Operating a car when the engine sneezes into the carburetor, in addition to discomfort for the driver, can lead to the need for major engine repairs.
Concurrent symptoms
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As a rule, the situation is accompanied by a number of other signs:
- unstable operation of the internal combustion engine in idle mode;
- difficulty starting;
- loss of power and throttle response of the power unit;
- rapid overheating of the motor;
- increase in fuel consumption.
Note also that in such a situation the car accelerates poorly. When you press the accelerator pedal, jerks, dips, and delays appear. The car jerks a lot, especially in transition modes. The power plant does not so much work as “sneeze.”
High voltage wires
When carrying out repairs affecting the ignition system, the high-voltage wires may be connected incorrectly. In this case, the spark will not occur in time with the compression cycle, resulting in popping sounds. Even if the engine starts, its power is not enough to move the car.
To diagnose a malfunction, you should check the connection of the wires from the spark plugs to the distributor. You should push off from the mark located on the cover. The connection of high-voltage wires must correspond to the car model. For example, the location of high-voltage wires in the VAZ 2109 is shown below.
Correct connection of high-voltage wires VAZ 2109
He sneezes... but why? @ Niva 4×4
Reg.: 12/06/2004 Threads / Messages: 627 / 51712
I have a Solex carburetor on my 7th year car, model 2107-1107010. When accelerating, the car accelerates normally: briskly and without failures, but as soon as it runs for at least 5 seconds while driving at speeds above 2000, the engine immediately begins to sneeze. And not just to sneeze, but when you press the accelerator all the way, so to speak, the supply of gasoline stops and the engine stalls. You can start it no earlier than 10 seconds later. You can drive at 2000 rpm as much as you like, but as soon as you exceed it to 2300, it feels like the fuel supply to the engine stops: the car starts to slow down with the engine. Moreover, this began immediately after the Epiphany frosts. I don’t know what to blame... Tell me what’s the matter? Who came across it? Carburetor - fuel level? Distributor - who knows what could be there... spark problems? Is the fuel pump not pumping enough fuel?
Mixture composition
If the engine is supplied with a too lean or rich mixture, then shooting is also possible. This situation may arise if the carburetor has been adjusted. Incorrect installation of the quality screw leads to incorrect preparation of the air-fuel mixture.
When operating on a lean mixture, the mixture burns slowly. When the intake valve opens, fuel continues to burn out. It ignites a new combustible mixture. Combustion occurs in the intake manifold and the engine shoots into the carburetor. At the same time, an increase in engine temperature is observed.
When working with an enriched mixture, black carbon deposits form on the electrodes. If there is enough plaque and a high temperature, it can ignite the air-fuel mixture at the wrong time. This causes the carburetor to pop as the intake valve is open at this time. This malfunction only appears when the engine is warm. Gradually the engine sneezes more and more often. A significant drop in power in this case is extremely rare.
For diagnosis, you should inspect the spark plugs. The presence of a white color indicates operation on a lean mixture. Black plaque, on the contrary, indicates over-enrichment.
To eliminate the malfunction, the carburetor should be inspected. If adjustment does not help, then flushing is required. You should also be careful about the fuel purchased at gas stations.
Featured Posts
Hurik
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- Car make: VAZ21063
- From:Donetsk
Hello. I have a VAZ21063 with a contact ignition Solex carburetor, the car started shooting at the carburetor when the 2-chamber was opened. I myself understand the ignition and the carburetor. I washed, blew out the carburetor, rebuilt the trampler, adjusted the valves, set the ignition, checked the compression to 10 in all, changed the spark plugs and wires, none of the above helped. Help who can.
Susanin33
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- Car make: VAZ – 21093
- From: Russia, Vladimir
Help who can.
lean mixture, early ignition, insufficient closing of the intake valve
Protva
- Mechanic
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- Car make:Chevrolet Lanos SX
- From: south Mos. region
I'll add a blown gasket between the manifold and the head.
zhigalo
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- Car make: VAZ 2107
- From:Kostanay
Did you set the distributor according to the marks?
Hurik
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- Car make: VAZ21063
- From:Donetsk
lean mixture, early ignition, insufficient closing of the intake valve
I changed the 2-carb plus adjusted it, set the ignition earlier and later, checked the valves twice, measured the compression at 10 in all. Nothing has changed.
Hurik
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- From:Donetsk
I'll add a blown gasket between the manifold and the head.
the engine runs fine at XX, the tasol does not go away, the spark plugs c1-4 are red, the engine does not run louder. The car began to shoot at the carburetor when opening the 2nd chamber. What is the problem with the gasket between the manifold and the head????
Hurik
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Did you set the distributor according to the marks?
Yes, according to the marks.
Susanin33
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Yes, according to the marks.
vacuum advancer
Hurik
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vacuum advancer
The vacuum corrector was checked to be normal, I even tried turning it off, no change.
Protva
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- Car make:Chevrolet Lanos SX
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spark plugs s1-4 red
It is better to replace spark plugs with red insulator. Over time, they begin to break through to ground.
Sorrel
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I’ll get into the conversation, try to pull out the choke a little, and you’ll go for a ride. It’s quite possible that he’ll stop shooting, if he stops I’ll tell you what’s going on next))) If he continues to shoot, I won’t be able to do anything to help. And even if the car is warmed up, still open the choke a little while driving.
Hurik
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I’ll get into the conversation, try to pull out the choke a little, and you’ll go for a ride. It’s quite possible that he’ll stop shooting, if he stops I’ll tell you what’s going on next))) If he continues to shoot, I won’t be able to do anything to help. And even if the car is warmed up, still open the choke a little while driving.
The choke really helps and the engine stops firing! what’s the matter??? share your guesses, is it really possible that the carb is fucking brains....?
Protva
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It's also interesting to know what the reason is. I can only assume that somewhere... I won’t guess. Waiting for Sorrel
.
Hurik
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It is better to replace spark plugs with red insulator. Over time, they begin to break through to ground.
The spark plugs have nothing to do with it, I changed the same canoe.
Sorrel
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Do you have a temperature regulator? Today I personally encountered popping noises (in Moscow today it was -12), all this was due to the supply of Cold air, (I didn’t have a thermostat on the 9th) I installed it, the popping noises disappeared. So the problem with popping noises is that Pts gets into the carburetor. cold air. check the thermostat, maybe it hasn’t been working for a long time...
VAZochnik
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If five carburetors have already been changed and there are no changes, then the problem is not with them (c).
In my opinion, you need to completely change the SZ distributor + coil. Take known good ones and see what changes. Start by replacing the coil; if that doesn’t help, change the distributor assembly.
I had a similar problem - that in the end it hurt - no one could explain. Some shouted that the capacitor on the distributor was broken, others that its bearing was jammed... It ended with the transition to BSZ. The troubles are over.
Motorist
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- Car make: VAZ 21074, Java 638.
- From: g. Pavlovo
In the winter, with the air cap turned off, my air pump would stall for the winter. You drive and drive, and suddenly the engine stalls. You wait for 10 minutes and you can go again. I turned the lid to winter time and that was it. And SZ has nothing to do with it. This is the same as trying to eliminate rear axle noise by changing the pump bearing.
n1ger
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- Car make:VAZik 21043
- From: Saldyukino
Idk... I drove around all winter with the switch turned off =)
and now the pan has been sawn apart =) it doesn’t seem to stall or fire...
although... there is... it happens... the scolex began to shoot (rarely, really, very rarely). I didn't notice this with ozone.
Hurik
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Idk... I've been driving around all winter with the switch not turned =)
but now the pan has been sawn apart =) it doesn't seem to stall or fire...although... there is... it happens... the scolex began to shoot (rarely, really, very rarely). I didn't notice this with ozone.
What kind of Solex, and what kind of jets are they?
n1ger
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Solex 83-51... rebuilt =D
top from 83 regular, bottom from 83-51. I bored out the diffusers to 2324. I don't remember the jets.
seems like this:
TZh1 107.5 VZh1 150
TZh2 115 VZh2 165
(I can’t find a standard repair kit for 21053-20 =((( )
I installed the current accelerator nose from the Niva and that’s it.
Hurik
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Guys, does anyone have a Solex08 without modifications on the 11th engine, and with what jets? Otherwise I’m stuck... surf the forums, one has some tariffs for jets, another has different ones, huh.. you’ll understand which ones are needed. I have
GTZH 1.K-97.5 GTZH 2.K-97.5 GVZH 1.K165 GVZH 2.K125
Hurik
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AU...... Is it really possible that 518 people who read the topic cannot answer the last question asked!!!!!!!!!!!
Radio technician
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What does carb have to do with it? The chain is ground off faster and the phases are delayed. This includes closing the intake valve during early ignition. They put it on early because the engine doesn't work (?).
Hurik
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What does carb have to do with it? The chain is ground off faster and the phases are delayed. This includes closing the intake valve during early ignition. They put it on early because the engine doesn't work (?).
My friend, you didn’t understand me, the problem with shooting into the carb was solved by increasing the valve clearance. Now the problem is the following, I recently installed a Solex 08 since my native ozone has worn out in 21 years, the jets on the Solex are as follows
GTZh 1.K-97.5 GTZh 2.K-97.5 GVZh 1.K165 GVZh 2.K125, at xx the engine is like a clock, on the 1st chamber it runs great, but on the 2nd chamber the car becomes stupid, jerks and there is no acceleration. Carb soap was blowing through the effect 0. What's the matter? Maybe the level in the PC or the jets is not what it should be?
ivan65
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- Car make: VAZ 2107
- From: Rostov
It is necessary to adjust the fuel pump pusher (either it sticks out a little or is worn out, if it is worn out, replace it with a new one) and this will most likely help. As a rule, the malfunction is on the surface - you just need to think about it.
Late and early ignition
With late ignition, combustion of the air-fuel mixture occurs throughout the entire power stroke. When the intake valve opens, the burning old mixture ignites fresh fuel. The engine overheats significantly during such operation. Popping noises can be observed not only in the carburetor, but also in the muffler.
For diagnostics, it is recommended to check the set ignition timing and, if necessary, adjust it. Whitened spark plug electrodes serve as indirect evidence of late ignition.
If the spark appears too early, the fuel will not ignite in a timely manner. In this case, the intake valve does not have time to close, and the combustible mixture inside the intake manifold ignites.
Particular attention should be paid to the OZ if work was carried out to repair the ignition system. It is required to produce the moment of sparking. The ignition timing is adjusted by turning the distributor relative to the scale.
Inspection of the ignition timing
The best
A sharp press on the gas: 1. Re-enrichment of the fuel mixture with the accelerator pump, shooting black smoke into the muffler. 2. The fuel mixture is too lean (the accelerator pump does not work) - shooting at the carb. 3. Ignition is too early - shooting at the carb and lousy starting. 4. Ignition is much late - shoot into the muffler and who knows what kind of start, I haven’t checked
