The procedure for replacing the timing belt VAZ 2109 1.5 liter 8 valves

01/26/2022 1,779 VAZ 2109

Author: Ivan Baranov

The gas distribution mechanism of car engines is often equipped with a low-noise belt drive, which is subject to wear and is a consumable item. You can replace the timing belt on a VAZ 2109 yourself, without going to a service station.

[Hide]

How to set the VAZ 2109 timing belt correctly?

To work, you will need keys 17 and 19, a flashlight and a flat-head screwdriver.
Remove the old belt and roller completely (just be careful not to lose the washers placed under and on it). Install a new tension roller VAZ 2109, and then begin adjustment. Using a wrench, turn the camshaft pulley until the mark on it aligns with the bar attached to the engine block. After this, try not to touch the camshaft so as not to knock it down (although this is quite difficult to do, but if desired, everything is possible).

1. Place a mark on the camshaft:

2. Checking the alignment of the marks on the crankshaft pulley

3. Check the marks on the flywheel for more accurate installation

Place a bolt on the crankshaft so that you can align the pulley to the marks. Rotate the crankshaft until the mark on the pulley is clearly vertical - this is the very first guideline. Afterwards, to ensure correctness, remove the rubber plug in the clutch housing.

A viewing window will open, through which you can see the flywheel. So, the latter should have a mark - a line that, under normal settings, coincides with the slot on the bar attached to the engine block. This is your second reference point, which directly speaks to the accuracy of the setting. Now all that remains is to put the belt on the crankshaft pulley first, then the camshaft.

To adjust the belt tension, you need to install a special key in the timing belt roller of the VAZ 2109 (if you don’t have one, you can adjust the tension using a screwdriver and a pair of screws or nails). Normal tension is when in the longest section you can turn it a maximum of 90 degrees. Yes, it should turn, but it should turn.

If you can’t turn it at all, then the tension is excessive and needs to be loosened. This is why the VAZ 2109 tension roller exists. Loosen the nut and perform the procedure again. After this, use a wrench to turn the crankshaft several turns and double-check that all marks match. If everything is fine, assemble the unit and start the engine.

Instructions for replacing the belt on a car with an injection engine

The injector was installed on only one type of “nine” engine - with a cylinder displacement of 1.5 liters. The use of a fuel injection system did not cause any adjustments to the camshaft drive pattern. The procedure for replacing the timing belt on a VAZ 2109 with an injection engine is practically no different from the list of work on a carburetor car.

The difference is the removal of the old belt, which will require:

1. Remove the crankshaft position sensor located next to the pulley from the engine. To dismantle, you need to unfasten the wiring plug and then unscrew the sensor mounting bolt. After this, the sensor is removed from the guide hole.
2. To loosen the tension of the auxiliary drive belt, you need to unscrew the M13 nut installed on the generator.

The intricacies of replacing the timing belt on an injection machine are shown in the video from the Alex ZW channel.

There are also several differences when reassembling:

1. The crankshaft pulley needs to be installed accordingly. To do this, you need to set the top dead center in the first cylinder - according to the mark on the flywheel and on the crankcase. In this case, the mark of the camshaft gear will coincide with the notch on the plate. The installed pulley should be located opposite the sensor with the beginning of the 20th tooth, counted from the two missing ones.
2. The gap between the sensor and the pulley should be 0.4-1.0 mm.
3. After completing the assembly, start and check the operation of the engine.

Check points on the pulley

Checking the timing belt tension

With the correct belt tension, the long leg should rotate 90º using the thumb and index finger. The test should not require much physical effort to complete. When retightening, additional loads occur on the bearings of the pump and tension roller, which damage them. Excessive tension is also harmful to the belt itself, which can break while the engine is running.

Preload check location

avto-mechanik.ru

Replacing the timing belt is one of the most important vehicle maintenance procedures. A broken belt leads to engine breakdown, which can lead to costly repairs within an hour, especially since this type of work does not require large material costs and the skills of a qualified specialist.

Here it is very important to understand the processes occurring in a running engine in order to correctly orient the order of work to replace the timing belt. At the moment of fuel compression, the piston must be at top dead center; accordingly, there is a mark on the crankshaft toothed pulley, which, when combined with the mark on the front cover of the engine, this position is fixed

When the piston is at top dead center, the valves of a given cylinder in the cylinder head must be completely closed. This also corresponds to a certain position of the camshaft, which is marked with a mark. Markers must be placed on the first cylinder of the engine. That is, the piston of the first cylinder is at TDC, the valves are completely closed. It is also necessary to understand that the next position of the piston at which the fuel is compressed and the marks are located correctly corresponds to one revolution of the camshaft and two revolutions of the crankshaft, that is, the crankshaft mark is twice aligned with the mark on the front cover of the engine, and its correct position corresponds to when the piston is in TDC at the moment of fuel compression and the valves of the first cylinder are completely closed, if you understand all this, then the process of installing the belt itself will not cause any difficulties. Take any existing internal combustion engine, all these processes will remain unchanged, the only difference is in the design of the timing drive, whether it is a belt, chain or gears. All we have to do is understand the nuances characteristic of each type of engine.

In this article I would like to talk about the timing device of an engine installed on a VAZ 2109 car, with a cylinder head having 8 valves, that is, each cylinder has one exhaust and one intake valve, respectively, the operation of these valves is ensured by one camshaft. And so where to start disassembling the timing drive mechanism. On this car it will be more convenient to remove the front right wheel. Remove the protective cover at the bottom. We need this in order to gain access to the generator drive pulley and the camshaft drive gear pulley. By removing the protective shield, we can unscrew the bolt securing the generator drive pulley. You must first loosen the tension on the generator belt and remove the belt. Then remove the plastic protective cover from above. It is held on by three mounting bolts. We loosen the nut securing the tension roller, after which the belt can be easily removed from the toothed pulleys.

Now you need to replace the tension roller with a new one. To do this, install the spacer washer, the roller itself and tighten the roller with a fastening nut.

It is advisable to change the pump at the same time; it doesn’t cost a lot of money, but it can cause a lot of harm if it fails.

Now you need to install the crankshaft correctly; to do this, scroll until the marks on the toothed pulley and the front engine cover align.

The piston is at top dead center. This position also corresponds to a mark on the flywheel, which is aligned with the central slot of the ignition setting scale. It is clearly visible through the inspection window in the flywheel housing housing.

The next step is to install the mark of the camshaft drive gear pulley, aligning it with the protrusion on the timing belt protective casing. This camshaft position corresponds to the moment of fuel compression in the combustion chamber, and the valves in the cylinder are closed.

We install the timing belt as shown in the photo, passing it through the pump and tension roller.

We install the generator drive pulley in its place. We tighten the belt using a tension roller; for this, the roller has special holes.

After we have tensioned the belt and fixed the tension roller, it is very important to double-check that the marks are in the correct position. To do this, rotate the crankshaft several times and align the marks if they are aligned correctly.

Close the upper protective casing, install the lower casing and wheel. That's it, the engine can be started.

Replacing the timing belt VAZ 2109 1.5 liter 8 valves with photos and videos

Old VAZ 2109 with a 1.5 8 valve engine, timing belt replacement. In general, it could be a VAZ 2114 or 2110, there is no difference in operation, the eight-valve engine is the same everywhere. Together with the belt, we will change the pump, the tension roller and two pulleys, the camshaft and the crankshaft. If the timing belt breaks, the valves on this engine do not bend, but it is better not to let it get to that point. Changing the pump and roller is a prerequisite so that after a thousand kilometers you don’t have to disassemble everything again. But it’s up to you to decide for the pulley, the price is 150 rubles per pair. There were cars where a slightly bent pulley caused the belt to slip and gradually wear out, reducing its service life. On this car the belt was worn down in half.

We recommend that you periodically check the condition of the belt to avoid annoying consequences and not have to look for someone to take it to a repair shop. Replace every 40,000 kilometers.

And here is the patient himself.

To replace it, we need a key for the tension roller, the price is half a hundred rubles. You can buy it at any auto store. As well as a set of keys and sockets and two hours of free time.

Begin

Everything we need.

We unscrew the three ten bolts securing the protective timing cover and remove it.

Next, loosen the nut thirteen that secure the generator and unscrew the tension bolt ten.

We take the generator to the engine and remove the belt.

Remove the engine protection and drain the antifreeze. We set the camshaft mark by turning the crankshaft clockwise. The ebb on the pulley should be opposite the bend of the protective cover fastening.

Unscrew the crankshaft pulley mounting bolt. We put the assistant in the cabin and force him to engage fifth gear and press the brake. And at this time we easily and naturally unscrew the bolt using a 19 meter head and a pipe of one and a half meters. It must be screwed properly, and some craftsmen lubricate it with sealant and then wait for kind words addressed to them.

On the left side we see the crankshaft position sensor. We will need it to subsequently check the correct installation of the timing belt. We remove the crankshaft pulley and see that the marks match.

Unscrew the nut on the tension roller 17 and remove it along with the belt. Then unscrew the camshaft pulley bolt and remove the last one. Be careful not to lose the key. We unscrew everything that secures the protective metal shield, namely one ten-point nut and a bolt securing the cover, three bolts securing the pump.

Remove the protective cover and pump. Antifreeze remaining in the block may leak out if you have not drained it. Carefully, it's sweet.

We clean all the parts from oil and belt residues, as well as the pump seat from the old gasket and sealant.

Lubricate the gasket of the new pump with sealant and put it in place. We install the metal protection and tighten all the bolts and nuts securing it. We tighten the pump bolts evenly in a circle, then check whether the pump is spinning. Recently a client brought in an original pump, which turned out to have slightly larger petals and after installation it began to bite. I had to modify it with a grinder and take measurements several times. These are the spare parts we have.

We check if the key is lost on the camshaft and install the pulley. We tighten its bolt to seventeen.

Now comes the fun part - installing a new belt.

We check that all marks match. We first place the belt on the crankshaft and pump. Then we tighten the right descending branch of the belt and put it on the camshaft pulley and tension roller. We check all the marks again and tighten the belt with a roller. The tension is considered sufficient if, with the force of two fingers, you can twist the longest branch of the belt by a maximum of 90 degrees. It’s easier to take the right branch of the belt with two fingers and twist it, if more than 90 is not very bad, but less is very bad. An overtightened belt will wear out quickly and will also reduce the life of the pump.

We place the bottom protective plastic cover. And on the crankshaft pulley we mark the twentieth tooth after skipping two teeth. We count counterclockwise.

This mark corresponds to the top dead center of the first cylinder. We put the pulley in place and the mark should be against the crankshaft position sensor. More precisely, against the small iron core of the sensor. Sometimes it gets into the gap between the teeth, this is considered acceptable. We tighten the pulley in the same way as we unscrewed it, with the help of a partner.

We turn the crankshaft two turns and check the marks; this is where our mark on the pulley comes in handy.

If everything is in trouble, we collect everything that we took apart. As they say in smart books, install the parts in the reverse order of removal. Don't forget to add antifreeze.

We start the car, accept congratulations from family and friends and head off to adventure.

Timing belt for VAZ 2109 engine

Previously, the gear device was quite rare and caused some mistrust among car enthusiasts. In modern cars, such a drive is no longer uncommon. And there are a number of objective reasons for this:

• toothed belt drive is less noisy;
• simplicity of design and light weight;
• service costs less.

But, as it turned out, the belt has many disadvantages. Firstly, it is fragile (it often breaks). Secondly, with prolonged use, sagging is observed, associated with squealing. Thirdly, if you tighten the belt, its teeth will “stick together” over time, which will lead to the need for replacement and unstable operation of the power unit.

Purpose of the timing belt

The timing belt is made of rubber and has teeth with serrations on the inside. Its main task is to ensure synchronous rotation of the crankshaft and camshaft drives. Thanks to the belt, a lower camshaft speed is achieved: it is two times lower than the crankshaft speed. Unfortunately, the part does not last as long as the chain, and wears out before 60 thousand kilometers. It is recommended to replace the belt, even if there is visually no visible damage or signs of wear.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=aIOMGBmM3SM

A broken belt completely disables the engine, making it impossible to move the car. On 8-valve engines with a volume of 1.5 liters (the injector and carburetor have the same systems), a broken belt does not lead to the valves being deformed; in common parlance, the valves are bent on the valve cover.

There may be several reasons why the drive breaks.

1. Natural wear of the belt or manufacturing defects (poor quality material).
2. The ingress of oil and dirt, as a result, peeling of the rubber and breakage.
3. The coolant pump is jammed and antifreeze is leaking.
4. Tensioner pulley problem.
5. Seized camshaft or crankshaft.

In order to avoid the financial costs of eliminating problems when the timing belt breaks, it is necessary, if possible, to monitor the operation of the timing belt:

• do not neglect the established regulations and promptly change consumables (belt, roller, pump, etc.);
• listen to the sound of the engine and if suspicious noises occur, immediately look for the cause;
• Check the belt tension regularly and tighten if necessary;
• monitor the warning lights on the dashboard (the oil pressure warning light indicates a malfunction);
• Avoid oil leaks; if there are any, look for the cause of the leak.

However, monitoring the condition of the belt and other drive elements is problematic due to the protective casing. To solve this problem, it is recommended to make a small inspection slot in the casing cover.

This way you can monitor the condition of the belt. And if there are cracks, scuffs and other damage, replace the drive in a timely manner, without waiting for it to break at the most inopportune moment.

How to tension the timing belt correctly

The optimal tension of the timing belt is very easy to check. Using a little force, you need to unscrew the belt. If the angle at which it is twisted is 90 degrees, then tension is not required.

After replacing any timing element, you will need to tighten the belt. To do this, you need to put it on the toothed pulleys of the crankshaft and camshaft drive and use a tensioner roller to make the tension optimal. After this, you need to crank the engine several times. This can be done with a wrench by turning the camshaft pulley mounting nut. Next, you need to look at the location of the alignment marks on the flywheel and gear - they must match exactly. If there is no match, the belt is removed again. And the pulleys are installed according to the marks, after which the tensioning procedure is repeated.

It happens that even a correctly tensioned belt begins to slip after starting the engine. The reason for this is deformation of the roller pin. It needs to be replaced.

Audi 100

In general, Audi modernized almost all engines in 1991. Thanks to it, the optimal power values ​​have shifted in the direction of cutting speed. Thus, this directly affected the nature of the tension of the rubber timing ring.

Timing drive diagram

You should know that initially the belt on the Audi was tensioned using a pump. This was actually done only once, and then when replacing, a new belt was installed without any adjustments.

After modernization, instead of a stationary roller, a movable one equipped with a temperature compensation system was installed. This roller assembly was supplied assembled and cost about $130, but the owners rarely used the original ones and installed duplicates for $20 in order to save money when replacing them. But as a result of this, some Audi owners began to have problems; the belt periodically shifted and slipped out of place.

The task of adjusting the Audi timing belt comes down to ensuring that the belt can be twisted 90*, or in other words, one quarter of a full turn. Below are instructions on what and how to do if the tension is too strong or too weak.

1. The thermal roller is tested only when cold.
2. Initially, the belt tension should be 0.

Let's continue:

• Using a caliper, set the distance between the roller lock and its rotator (let’s call it “A”). It should be equal to 49 mm.
• After this, you need to start the internal combustion engine, but immediately turn it off as soon as the fan turns on.
• Now check distance “A” again. Changes should not be less/more than 7.2-7.3 mm.

This thermal device lasts for approximately 150 thousand miles, but there are exceptions.

How to choose quality parts

Buy a camshaft from a reliable and time-tested company, for example, PJSC Avtovaz. The packaging has a seal with a hologram. It shimmers in the light and features the company's logo. There is also a sticker with a barcode on the box. The item is packaged in blue translucent film. There is a stamp from the Quality Control department inside the package. Buy rockers together with adjusting bolts. There are new and old style levers. The holes in them differ in diameter and number of cuts. If you buy rockers and bolts separately, chances are they won't fit together.

Read, it may come in handy: The oil filter has a flaw

When replacement is required

The timing belt is responsible for the operation of the gas distribution mechanism.

Try in every possible way to avoid breaking the belt while driving, otherwise this may negatively affect the condition of the engine and the cost of its repair.

The most dangerous is the contact, the “meeting” between two main elements - the piston and the valve. In this case, the unit becomes deformed, requiring expensive restoration of the car.

There are several main criteria that indicate the need to replace the unit.

Crack on the strap

Installation

Now directly about how to return a new timing belt to its place. There is nothing complicated here either, but we still recommend watching visual videos and studying the instructions.

1. As soon as you have examined the condition of the unit and decided to change something, proceed to assembling the mechanism.
2. It is easier to do the work so that all the inscriptions are turned in your direction, that is, towards the right wing of the car.
3. Replace the pulley unless it needs to be replaced.
4. Next, put on the belt. Moreover, it should be put on the lower gear first, and then on the upper one. Not the other way around.
5. Make sure there is no sagging.
6. Place the timing belt behind the water pump and tension pulley.
7. Tighten the tension roller using a special wrench.
8. If you do not have such a key, use a simple key and a screwdriver.
9. Be sure to adjust your new strap properly. The adjustment is carried out until the moment when you can no longer turn it at an angle of more than 90 degrees. This is the best option for tightening the strap for the VAZ 2109.
10. Turn the pulley several times. This will ensure that the marks on the timing gear and flywheel are in the correct position.
11. If for some reason the tags do not match, we have bad news. You will have to remove the strap again and adjust the position again.

Crack on the strap

The main difficulty in replacing a timing belt lies not in the complexity of the processes performed, but in the time that needs to be spent on repairs.

A competent approach, attentiveness and the use of a high-quality new belt will allow you to easily restore the operation of the gas distribution mechanism and save hundreds of rubles on visiting a car service center.

Main malfunctions of the timing belt of the VAZ 2109 engine

These include the following:

• the thermal clearance of the valves is broken;
• camshaft bearings or cams are worn;
• broken valve springs;
• valves stuck;
• the strap is stretched or weakened (slips or slips, perhaps skips if the teeth are worn);
• the camshaft timing pulley is damaged;
• oil seals (valve stems or guides) are worn out;
• carbon deposits on the valve plate.

There are several factors that are also typical for malfunctions of the crank mechanism:

• general wear and tear of the power unit elements caused by the exhaustion of the main resource determined by the manufacturer;
• the engine operating rules have been violated (this may include the use of low-grade fuel, low-quality oil, prolonged operation at high speeds).

One of the most serious problems that can happen is the so-called stuck valves. Such a breakdown leads to complete engine failure and expensive repairs. There may be two reasons.

Factors that caused the malfunction

The first is operation on low-grade fuel, as a result of which resin is deposited on the valve stems. The second factor is resonance caused by broken springs. In this case, when the piston reaches TDC, the valve does not have time to fully seat itself. This kind of problem is extremely rare, but it doesn’t hurt to know about it.

A common malfunction with a violation of the thermal clearance occurs due to wear of the bearings or camshaft cams. Also possibly the camshaft pulley. Often the cause is incorrect adjustment of the gap or incorrect selection of the washer.

In fact, it is quite difficult to correctly diagnose timing belt faults, since signs may indicate other engine components and assemblies not related to the timing belt.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=hqf2QA3WHcw

Therefore, diagnosing breakdowns of the gas distribution mechanism often involves removing the cylinder head cover for a visual inspection of the condition of the elements. A timing malfunction in any case leads to a violation of the valve timing, as a result of which unstable engine operation is observed, the inability to gain power, etc.

Signs of trouble

You can carry out diagnostics yourself if you pay attention to phenomena that clearly or indirectly indicate problems with gas distribution:

• at low and medium speeds a knock is heard in the cylinder head;
• the power of the power plant has been reduced;
• a metallic knock when starting the engine, which goes away as it warms up;
• The camshaft drive is noisy;
• there are strong pops in the exhaust system;
• exhaust gases have a blue tint;
• increased oil consumption is observed;
• engine detonation when revving up;
• the motor overheats;
• failures during engine operation.

For an accurate diagnosis, the best option would be to contact a specialized center. You should not delay with such malfunctions, as the consequences can be serious.

Verdict: So what should you buy?

It is impossible to say unequivocally that one or another type of tire is better. When choosing tires, analyze where you most often have to travel and the climatic conditions of your region. For example:

• Long winters with snow and decent frosts, the northern region and country living - spikes are definitely recommended.
• Short winters with little snow with slush and near-zero temperatures, living in a large city or in the southern regions - friction tires are the best option for winter.

Studded tires are more versatile and ensure stable vehicle behavior on the road.

The disadvantages can be called insignificant, provided that proper operation and precautions are observed. “Velcro” are more comfortable, but are not suitable for movement on ice; they are more suitable for urban use on relatively clean roads. Is it possible to buy the cheapest tires for winter?

Is it possible to buy the cheapest tires for winter?

An important point is the quality of the rubber. You can buy a cheap "China" and lose the spikes in the first hundred kilometers. Or buy Velcro, which becomes dull in mild frost and loses its grip.

Buy tires that are popular. No need to buy tires based only on price considerations

If you are a budget-conscious person and are looking for a budget, but at the same time high-quality option, then pay attention to the subsidiary brands of large manufacturers, for example: Barum, Tigar, Fulda, Uniroyal, Nordman, Kleber, Matador, etc.

Why did you put the belt on the marks but the engine does not develop power?

Such cases are frequent; if you make a mistake by one tooth, the engine will not develop full power. For example, we have jumped a tooth ahead, the engine starts, you give the gas and it barely spins up, but as soon as you turn the distributor towards the plus side, the engine begins to develop power. But according to normal, the distributor should be in the center according to the marks on the distributor, with a slight deviation either plus or minus; this depends on the ignition setting; if the distributor has to be moved to the very edge, then this is a sign that a mistake was made when installing the timing belt.

If you made a mistake back a tooth, the engine will start very slowly, it will feel like it is biting, and detonation will also appear when you press the gas (ringing in the engine).

The question arises why this happens, you look at the marks, everything is correct, but the engine is not working correctly, the whole point is that the mark on the tin boot along which the camshaft gear is aligned can be slightly bent both down and up, this is why errors occur.

Photo. Distributor marks with a correctly installed timing belt.

The main thing is that when the belt is replaced and installed correctly, the ignition does not go astray, but this is understandable for carburetor engines with a distributor.

It’s simply impossible to determine this on the injector, since the computer itself adjusts the ignition, but if you feel that the engine is running worse or a malfunction has come on on the panel, try moving the belt to one tooth.

Checking the ignition system

The reason that the VAZ-2109 engine “troubles” is the ignition system. Due to its incorrect operation, the combustion process of the air-fuel mixture is not observed in one of the cylinders, which leads to unstable operation of the engine, severe vibration, and a drop in power.

Interruptions in the ignition system, due to which “triple” occurs, give:

1. Candles.
2. High-voltage wires and their tips.
3. Contacts of the distributor cover (distributor).
4. Hall Sensor.

These items should be checked in the same order.

Candles are one of the most common causes of tripping. Exhausted life, incorrect clearance, “breakdown” of the housing and penetration of the impulse to ground - these faults of the spark plug lead to failure or malfunction, which affects the operation of the motor.

You can verify that a spark plug is broken by replacing it with a known good one or swapping it with a spark plug from another cylinder. Replacing the spark plug can eliminate the malfunction of the power unit.

In addition to the spark plug, you should check the condition of the contact in the tip (which is put on the contact nut of the spark plug). It is made of copper and oxidizes over time, which leads to disruption of contact between the wire and the spark plug, and causes “triple” to appear.

In search of the cause, the high-voltage wires are checked next. Over time, the braiding of these wires loses elasticity and cracks, which is why voltage pulses “break through” to the ground, not reaching the spark plug.

A simple way to check the wires is to start the engine at night and open the hood. In the dark, “breakdowns” in the form of sparks are visible. If sparks are noticeable, replace the wires.

Next, look at the distributor cap and the slider. Gradually, the contacts on the slider and in the lid wear out, and they may also oxidize, which leads to loss of contact and interruptions in the operation of the spark plug.

Due to a malfunction of the Hall sensor, there is a failure in the formation of pulses supplied to the switch. Because of this, the operation of the ignition system is disrupted, in which the pulse from the coil to the distributor is missed, and from it to the spark plug.

Do not forget that an incorrectly set ignition timing is another reason for engine tripping. Therefore, in search of the cause, we be sure to check the setting of this angle and carry out adjustment work.

Set Timing Marks on VAZ 2109 Carburetor

Broken belt and how to set the timing belt of a VAZ 2109

Everyone should know how to exhibit

Timing belt VAZ 2109, because no one is insured against a broken belt. You are incredibly lucky if you become the owner of a car with a 1.5-liter 8-valve engine. For them, if the belt breaks, the valves remain unharmed; for others, unfortunately, the cylinder head will have to be repaired.

How to find out if the timing belt is broken? Quite easily, because the spark is lost, the engine does not start, and the crankshaft spins faster than usual. Naturally, how to set the VAZ timing belt 2109

That's right, you need to know when replacing the belt. Now let's look at > the myth and the case.

How to remove the timing belt of a VAZ 2109?

Before carrying out work, place chocks under the rear wheels and apply the handbrake. This will prevent the car from rolling away. Loosen the bolts on the right front wheel because it will have to be removed.

Raise the right side on a jack and completely remove the wheel (throw it under the engine crankcase so that the drop structure for which the car is designed does not fall onto the brake disc). Open the hood and use a 10 mm wrench to remove the three bolts that secure the protective casing of the gas distribution mechanism. What remains for our client to do, now you have a view of him, we can continue.

Now loosen the nut on the generator and remove its drive belt. It will interfere with the replacement because you will have to remove the pulley from the crankshaft. Using a 19mm wrench (there is even an option with a cylinder), remove the bolt that secures the pulley to the crankshaft.

Set timing marks for VAZ 2110 8 valves

On carburetor versions of cars, there is an option to insert a screwdriver or a small key into the pulley slot to keep the crankshaft from turning. On injection engines, you will have to use the help of a partner, who will sit in the cabin and press the brake pedal (in this case, you must turn on the fifth speed).

When you remove the bolt, you need to loosen the VAZ 2109 tension roller to make it easier to remove the belt. For this purpose, take a 17mm wrench and unscrew the nut. In this case, of course, the VAZ 2109 timing belt pulley should be completely removed, because to install a new belt, it also needs to be changed.

Remove the belt from the pulleys and carefully examine the condition of the pump - there is no play here; pull the pulley to the sides with your hand. A corresponding feature of the presence of free play and strong output of the liquid pump will be the occurrence of wear along the edge of the belt. If this happens, then you should immediately change the pump.

How to replace the timing belt and set the marks on a VAZ 2108

MY AFFILIATE PROGRAM Log in and EARN.

As for replacing the pump, this must be done every time the belt is changed. Considering that the car of this family is already older than 5 years old, the recommended period for replacing the belt is about 50 thousand km. The liquid pump operates for about 90-100 thousand km. mileage

Place timing marks on the VAZ 2109 carburetor

Therefore, it is necessary to install a new one on time, not to wait until it is one hundred percent worn out and breaks the belt. However, the VAZ 2109 tension roller must be changed immediately with the belt; there are no other options.

How to set the VAZ 2109 timing belt correctly?

To complete the work, you will need keys 17 and 19, a flashlight and a flat-head screwdriver. Remove the completely old belt with the roller (just don’t lose the washers placed underneath it). Install a new tension roller VAZ 2109, then proceed with adjustment.

Using a wrench, turn the camshaft pulley until its mark aligns with the bar attached to the engine block. After that, try not to touch the camshaft so as not to knock it down (although this is not possible, but if our client wishes, it is possible).

A few photos that will give a nice idea of ​​what marks need to be combined to install the timing belt on the nine:

1. Labeling

on the camshaft:

3.2. Checking the alignment of the marks on the crankshaft pulley

3. Check the marks on the flywheel for a clearer installation

Preparation

The presence of at least one of the points listed above forces the car owner to prepare for repair work. Replacing the VAZ 2109 timing belt does not require special conditions (inspection hole, overpass), complex tools, or expensive devices. It is enough to have a flat area, good lighting, the usual set of open-end and socket wrenches (including a cylinder and spark plug), a flat-head screwdriver, a jack, a spare belt, and a tension pulley. The only exception is the adjusting device for turning the eccentric around the axis and then securing it with a nut. If there is no tension unit, screws of the appropriate diameter are inserted into the holes to help keep it from turning with a screwdriver. It is more convenient to carry out the event together. The assistant can be useful for pressing the brake and clutch pedals, changing gears, and organizing convenient lighting. You should remember the differences in the designs of the VAZ 2109 car with a carburetor and injector.

Where are the timing marks on a VAZ?

The 8-valve VAZ engine has one camshaft, and it is much easier to set marks on it than on a twin-shaft engine. Let's look at all the possible ways to find the extreme position of the camshaft and crankshaft.

Photo of VAZ 2108 timing marks

On the camshaft, as a rule, there is a mark on the pulley, such a small mark, and on the cylinder head there is an ebb with which this mark should coincide, or rather not even an ebb, but a protrusion on the shield, on the left side, when looking at the engine and camshaft from the front. Sometimes these marks are not observed; what to do in this case is described below.

The crankshaft is aligned according to the mark on the flywheel, on the gearbox, near the engine on top there is a hatch covered with a rubber plug. If you remove the plug, you will see marks on the flywheel and a protruding rod from the engine, which should coincide. But there may be a problem: the fact is that if the engine was disassembled and the flywheel was removed, then the flywheel can be placed on either side, that is, the mark will be God knows where, but not at TDC. There is no guide or eccentric on the flywheel; whichever side you put it on, that’s what it will become, even if you turn it 180 degrees.

In this case, you can look for the mark on the front of the engine - on the pulley and the return flow on the oil pump on the engine. But this is not the case on all engines; often this mark is missing. What to do in situations where no tags are found? Now the fun begins, in fact, marks are not needed on this engine, you can do without them.