Features of replacing the alternator belt on the Lada Grant

Despite the external similarity of the Lada Granta models with 8 and 16 valves, the method of replacing the alternator belt is different. 8-valve modifications: “Norma”, “Standard” are not equipped with an air conditioning system. The gas distribution design does not have a mechanical belt tensioner.

The Lada Granta “Lux” version with a 16-valve mechanism and pre-installed air conditioning has a built-in drive belt tensioner.

In order to provide methodological assistance to inexperienced Lada Granta owners, we will consider two ways to replace the alternator belt.

Where is the belt located on the Lada Granta of various modifications

Regardless of the number of valves, the drive belt (hereinafter referred to as the RPM) is located in the lower right part of the engine compartment at the end.

Resteco belt

Belt Finwhale

Snapshot53252323

Marking of the drive belt for auxiliary units 6РК 995 (six-V-ribbed, length - 995 mm).

Marking of the drive belt for auxiliary units 6РК 995 (six-V-ribbed, length - 995 mm).

In order to improve visual control, remove the plastic engine casing. To check the condition of the belt, engage fifth gear in a manual transmission, push the car (or rotate the suspended wheel) and inspect the belt along its entire length. On a car with an automatic transmission, remove the right mudguard of the engine compartment and, by rotating the crankshaft by the bolt of the auxiliary drive pulley, check the condition of the belt.

With any of the gearboxes, the following method is also possible: apply chalk marks to sections of the belt and, turning on the starter for short periods of time, turn the crankshaft at small angles. We inspect the belt along its entire length, checking the areas covered by the marks.

The belt should not have cracks, tears or separation of rubber from the fabric base. A defective belt must be replaced. To do this, from the engine compartment side...

Replacing the alternator belt on the Lada Grant 8 valve

1. We place the car on a flat platform (platform) and open the hood.

We begin work after the engine has cooled down, the temperature is safe, which eliminates burns and injuries.

1. For convenience, we remove the expansion tank of the cooling system and move it to the side.
2. Using a key set to “13” we release the upper and lower fastenings of the generator, but do not twist the nuts.
3. Move the generator housing forward towards the wall of the cylinder block until it stops.
4. We reset the old RPM.

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Removing the old belt

1. We carry out troubleshooting of the generator splines and crankshaft shaft. If there are no comments or deformations of the grooves, we install a new RPM.
2. Using a pry bar, move the body to its original position, screw in the nut of the lower and upper fastenings.
3. We complete the assembly.

We fix the nuts 1 - lower, 2 - upper

Replacing the alternator belt without tensioner on the Lada Grant is completed.

Note to the driver!!!

Setting the exact tension of the RPM at home is quite difficult, because... This requires special equipment. Use a regular tester (multimeter), every second motorist has the device.

We set the tension in the following way:

1. After putting on the belt, start the engine.
2. We put two terminals of the multimeter on the battery.
3. We look at the voltage at the “output”, its value should be close to 14.00 V. If it is less, then we increase the tension, if it is more, we release it.

With him

Using the E-14 head, unscrew the two screws securing the support to the engine cylinder block bracket. Using a 17mm socket, unscrew the two nuts and the bolt securing the support to the body side member (shown by arrows).

Using the E-14 head, unscrew the two screws securing the support to the engine cylinder block bracket. Using a 17mm socket, unscrew the two nuts and the bolt securing the support to the body side member (shown by arrows).

Replacing the alternator belt on a Lada Granta 16 valves (Lada Granta with air conditioning)

1. Jack up the right side of the car and remove the wheel.
2. Unscrew the five screws in the wheel arch and remove the lower part of the “protection”. This is necessary to ensure unobstructed access to the engine mount; it must be removed.
3. Unscrew the 8 bolts around the perimeter of the oil pan protection and remove it.

Mounting points for the mudguard and fender liner: 1 — screw with a Torx T-27 key for general fastening of the mudguard and fender liner to the wheel arch; 2 — two Torx T-20 screws for general fastening of the mudguard and fender liner to the wheel arch and fender; 3 - Torx T-20 key screw for fastening the fender liner to the wing; 4 — four self-tapping screws “8” for fastening the fender liner to the wheel arch; 5 - four Torx T-20 screws for fastening the fender liner to the front bumper.

1. We install a wooden block in the center of the oil pan and lower the car onto the block.
2. We unscrew the engine mount; it is secured with two bolts and one nut (at “17”).

Loosen the adjusting screw

1. We remove the RPM.
2. We carry out troubleshooting of the splines, and if there is no deformation, we install a new belt. We check that it lies exactly in the grooves of the shafts.

The belt is already bad, but the generator pulley is still suitable

1. We engage fifth gear and turn the wheel until the belt rests completely on the shafts.
2. We jack up the car and assemble the structure in the reverse order.

Next, we go to the engine compartment to adjust the RPM.

Photo 789

Diagram of the drive of auxiliary units: 1 - drive pulley of the auxiliary units;
2 — tensioner roller; 3 — tension device; 4 — generator pulley; 5 — air conditioning compressor clutch pulley; 6 — auxiliary drive belt; 7 — bracket for the right support of the power unit. Diagram of the drive of auxiliary units: 1 — drive pulley of the auxiliary units; 2 — tensioner roller; 3 — tension device; 4 — generator pulley; 5 — air conditioning compressor clutch pulley; 6 — auxiliary drive belt; 7 — bracket for the right support of the power unit

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Features of belt tension on the Lada Grant

The home method of tensioning was described above in the recommendations. Service center technicians adjust the tension using special equipment.

The vehicle operating instructions indicate the tension range: 8 – 12 mm with a force of 10 kg.

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In practice, the measurement occurs as follows: screw the tensioner until the belt can be bent at an angle of 90° in the middle between the generator and the crankshaft.

Let's summarize

To work with the generator and to replace the belt you need:

• set of spanners, Torx t20 and 27, ratchet with heads or wrench, knife;
• if there is no tensioner, you can assemble and install it;
• if there is no air conditioner, replacement is easiest;
• is there air conditioning? To work, you need a pit or a lift with dismantling the engine support;
• They change consumables every 30 thousand mileage according to regulations.

More articles on repair Grants at the link.

Write comments and share your experience.

Signs of wear on the RPM

Before you start replacing the RPM, conduct your own diagnostics and evaluate the actual condition of the parts and mechanisms. Perhaps the cause of the malfunction is in another unit adjacent to the generator.

1. We open the hood, the engine must cool down so as not to damage the skin of the hand and fingers.
2. We put the gear in neutral and turn the alternator belt. Rotation occurs quite easily, by hand, without special equipment.
3. We inspect each area one by one.

Signs of wear on the RPM
The following will indicate the need to replace the RPM:

• fraying, side abrasions;
• peeling of rubber, thread fiber;
• other mechanical damage;
• teeth tears;
• the presence of oily traces and streaks on the surface of the belt.

If there are no comments on the RPM, we proceed to inspect the tensioner roller. Often the reason for the appearance of third-party noise is precisely this, worn-out roller bearings. We loosen the structure with our hands and check that it is working properly.

It is important to know!!!

If the belt breaks on the way, it is allowed to travel on the battery's reserve energy, but not more than one hour. In practice, experts recommend no more than half an hour of free movement.

Basic faults

Failures associated with the failure of the Granta generator lead to discharge or, conversely, overcharging of the battery and its boiling. In both cases, this will make further operation of the car impossible. If the belt is overtightened, problems with high bearing wear will soon arise. If the belt tension is insufficient, slipping will occur and the battery will receive too little charge.

Normally, a working generator produces 14.5 V; exceeding this value is most often due to a breakdown of the voltage regulator. Without urgent replacement of the element, constant recharging of the battery will lead to shedding of lead plates and battery malfunction. If the unit does not produce the required voltage, and it is below 13 V, then the problem may not only be with the regulator, but also with the fact that the brushes are worn out, the diode bridge or windings are damaged.

It happens that suspicious sounds occur during operation, in which case the nature of the noise is important. It’s not difficult to deal with this: just remove the wires from the generator. If the rotation of the pulley is accompanied by a howling or squealing noise, then the problem is in the bearings. If, after removing the wires, the noise disappears, then it is in the diode bridge, or a short circuit has occurred in the winding. In any case, repairs are inevitable, and sometimes only replacing the unit will help.

Typical faults and methods for their elimination:

Cause of malfunction

Remedy

The table shows the main faults. Mechanical and other damage is also possible.

Causes of premature wear of the RPM

• violation of the deadlines for the prevention of technical means;
• purchase and subsequent installation of non-original, low-quality spare parts;
• violation of the rules for operating the car by the driver;
• third-party mechanical damage resulting in deformation (breakage) of the drive;
• systematic contact with the surface of engine, transmission oil, and cooling system fluid;
• manufacturing defect.

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Sn323

The upper screw securing the support to the bracket is shorter than the lower one - do not mix it up during assembly.

The upper screw securing the support to the bracket is shorter than the lower one - do not mix it up during assembly.

Lada Granta and Kalina: checking and replacing the auxiliary drive belt

Addresses of companies providing services for replacing RPMs

Review of manufacturer prices for Lada Granta alternator belt

Belt technical parameters:

• Length: 823 mm.
• Thickness: 3.0 mm.
• Material: ethylene propylene rubber.
• number of ribs: 6.

*prices are current as of October 26, 2018.

conclusions

This technical “mistake” did not happen by accident. The fact is that the Lada Granta was developed with a low retail price in mind. And, given the depreciation of the ruble, this car managed to enter the top ten cheapest cars in the world. At the same time, the equipment of the Lada Grant is much higher than that of its competitors on the list.

And some problems, like the alternator belt tensioner, can be solved yourself. Only consider warranty issues that may be violated during installation.

Source

How to choose an alternator belt for the Lada Granta

• Wedge-shaped: the shape of the teeth is wedge-shaped, trapezoidal in outline. The strap is designed to transfer increased force between two nearby shafts. The wedge shape is not designed for reverse bending. That is, it is prohibited to install it on the Lux model.
• Poly-V-ribbed is a universal type: its shape resembles several belts glued together.
• Toothed: There are transverse grooves on the inside. This type of RPM is designed to transmit the maximum number of rotation and traction force. Installed on the Lada Granta to ensure the operation of the gas distribution mechanism.

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2302-3-2-13-(Copy)

The belt deflection in the area between the pulleys of the engine and the air conditioning compressor with an applied force of 100 N (10 kgf) should be within 6–7 mm.

The belt deflection in the area between the pulleys of the engine and the air conditioning compressor with an applied force of 100 N (10 kgf) should be within 6–7 mm.

Attention! Do not overtighten the belt. Excessive belt tension causes premature wear of the alternator belt and bearings.

Next, assembly is carried out in reverse order.

However, please note that...

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