➤ Replacing the generator on the Lada Grant

Every grant driver knows about the problems of the standard generator on the Lada Grant. However, they are in no hurry to eliminate the defect in mass production. Support (rolling) bearings often fail. While driving, extraneous noise appears, a metallic grinding sound.

To eliminate the defect, it is necessary to dismantle the generator, carry out an inspection, and replace worn elements. Most often, the causes of failure are associated with an electrical or mechanical component.

Replacing the generator on Lada Granta 16 valves

At the preparatory stage, we will need the same tools and materials as in the case of the 8-valve Granta.

The design of the 16-valve modification of the Lada Granta has an alternator belt tensioner installed. This must be taken into account during repairs.

Algorithm of actions:

The car is in the perimeter of the repair area, the battery terminal has been removed, the oil pan is protected.
By analogy, we disconnect the power terminals from the converter and the protective cap.
The key is set to “13”, release the upper lock of the generator, move it to the right until it stops.
Remove the belt from the pulley.
Unscrew the lower fastening and remove the bushing.
We remove the generator from its regular place.

Replacing the VAZ 2190 alternator belt

According to the maintenance regulations, the condition of the drive belt must be checked every 15 thousand km, and the part must be changed every 30 thousand km, even if it is visually in good condition. The 8-valve Granta power unit does not provide a device for tensioning the belt, therefore, it is considered a disposable consumable, i.e. its repeated installation is not allowed.

To independently check this rubber product, you need to perform a few simple manipulations. 5th gear is engaged first. Then you need to lean on the front bumper and try to roll the car away from you, while at the same time assessing the appearance of the belt. It should not have even small cracks, not to mention peeling and ruptures, which often appear during prolonged use.

Replacing the Lada Granta alternator belt begins with its purchase. Usually the original spare part is not very expensive. Characteristics of the Lada Granta belt:

article in the catalog – 1118-1041020-07;
length (size) – 823 mm;
marking on the package – 6РК 823.

To work you will need a minimum set of tools:

stationery knife;
screwdriver or long mounting blade;
key to "13".

Replacement is carried out as follows:

Remove the old belt. To do this, it is most convenient to cut it with a knife.
Unscrew the lower mounting bolt of the unit two or three turns using a “13” key.
Unscrew the nut and remove the mounting bolt from above.
Now, being careful, you need to try to rotate the generator so that the eye on top can go beyond the protrusion of the bracket. The generator should be pressed against it and secured with available materials. An ordinary wire will do, with which it is tied to the cylinder head cover nut.
Place the belt on the pulleys first.
Turn on the fifth speed, at the same time press the belt against the pulley (outside help is needed). The car should be pushed again so that the belt is in its place.
Remove the wire and, armed with a screwdriver, press the generator at the point of contact with the bracket, and then screw the bolt into the upper mount.

Next, all that remains is to tighten the nut and tighten the lower fastening. This concludes the procedure.

Replacing a generator on a Lada Granta with air conditioning

At the preparatory stage we will need the above tools and materials.

Sequencing:

After unscrewing the converter mounts, hang up the front of the car, unscrew the bolts, and remove the right wheel.
Through the opening in the wheel arch we unscrew the tension roller and the engine mount mount.
We lower the car with a jack until access to the generator opens.
The further dismantling algorithm is no different from that described above.

We carry out preventive maintenance, replace the unit with a new one, and assemble the structure in the reverse order.

Where is the generator located on the Lada Grant?

On cars of the Lada Granta family, the current converter is located in the engine compartment, on the left side.

Engine compartment When carrying out repairs, you may experience difficulties with access to the converter mounts. For convenience, remove the oil pan protection and hang the front of the car.

TO-2 and replacement of the wheel bearing under warranty

Six months have passed since I wrote about carrying out TO-1, and now it’s happening again.
During the service interval, the oil level on the dipstick did not drop even a millimeter. This is good. Last time the engine was filled with LADA 5W40 synthetic oil. This time he was not there. And there won't be any more. I had to agree to semi-synthetics of the same viscosity of the same brand.

Complaints. There were three complaints. Sluggish air conditioning, lagging clock on the instrument cluster and, attention! — howling checkpoint! My gearbox howled. This matter became more and more audible when releasing the gas in 2nd and 3rd gears, but on one familiar car this ailment was repaired under warranty, but it was of little use: everything returned to its previous state quite quickly. I don’t count on a quick response from the dealer and, especially, gearbox repair. I can’t tell you anything about this yet. As for the air conditioner, they promised to measure the temperature in the air ducts and compare it with the recommended values. The technique is still not clear to me: they inserted a thermometer sensor from a multimeter and it showed 5 degrees. This is the minimum value. They said this is the norm. For some reason, on the other two grants the air conditioner gets colder...

Well, a few words about the remaining hours. This can hardly be considered a defect, it's more of a nitpick. But on the first generation Kalina the clock was accurate, but on the Grant it was not. Cheaper?))) I don’t think so. I had to listen to a lot of nonsense from the receptionist about how this had to be shown somehow, to which I answered something like this: “I can’t show it, but that doesn’t mean that the clock doesn’t keep up with time.” My calculation was that the instrument cluster has a certain service mode that allows making corrections - for example, 1 minute per month, or 3 minutes... The warranty engineer promised to find out about this possibility...

When I signed up for maintenance, they told me the approximate cost including materials - 6,500 rubles. I definitely use only dealer oil, but I decided to buy filters and spark plugs myself.

Source

Signs of generator malfunction, ways to eliminate them

Sign	Cause/remedy
The warning light on the dashboard does not light up	Open circuit in the power supply from the converter to the battery. Check the integrity of the electrical circuit
The warning light does not go out after the engine starts	Insufficient belt tension, insufficient tension in the chain. Measure the voltage in the circuit.
—/—	Worn brushes, faulty diode bridge. Measure the voltage with a multimeter and replace worn elements with new ones.
Short to ground	The insulation of the power cable is damaged. Check the condition of the insulating coating.
The converter does not produce the proper voltage of 14 V	Oxidation of terminals, cleaning with a metal brush, replacement
—/—	The battery is worn out, replace the battery
—/—	Loose belt tension. Adjust the tension.
—/—	Diode (rectifier) bridge is unusable, replace with a new one
The battery is not receiving a charge	Replacing the diode bridge with a new one
—/—	Rectifier failure. Replacement of components
Voltage drop in the network (circuit)	Checking the quality of connections of terminals and clamps. Tightening, replacing with new ones

It turns out that increasing the life of a wheel bearing is not difficult

If a hum appears while driving, especially when accelerating, then the wheel bearing needs to be replaced. Another sign of wear of this element is the strong heating of the brake disc, even during a short trip. In this case, the car’s braking system operates normally, without failures.

But replacing a wheel bearing is not a cheap pleasure. This is due to the fact that car manufacturers produce maintenance-free hubs, that is, when one element wears out, the unit is completely replaced. This concept is positioned as a faster repair without compromising safety, since when installing a new bearing it must be correctly aligned. Another factor is the use of high-strength materials that can withstand enormous loads.

But practice shows that nothing can save you from potholes, vibration, temperature, pollution and moisture. No vehicle is operated under the conditions created during testing.

It is worth noting that incorrect installation of the wheel bearing is a very common cause of premature wear. Here the human factor comes to the fore. That is, in order to ensure long-term, safe operation, the master must have practical experience, be armed with a special tool and perform the work conscientiously.

Experts note a high percentage of low-skilled craftsmen at Russian service stations. This significantly reduces the quality of work (even with a special tool) and increases the number of claims against the manufacturer from vehicle owners. Foreign brands monitor similar dynamics and make decisions aimed at reducing the number of complaints. But this is not done at a loss to the companies that produce components.

Services do not remain at a loss either. In addition to making repairs easier, they increase profits. This is simple arithmetic, since the average car owner pays 50% of its cost for installing a component. Obviously, a complete hub is more expensive than a single bearing. It turns out that the decision made by car manufacturers is beneficial to everyone except the car owners. Their vehicle maintenance costs increase. So how can you avoid this and prevent wheel bearing wear?

Replacing the Lada Granta generator - KZATE with Bosch. Comparative characteristics and disadvantages

Characteristics	KZATE 115A 2170-10	Bosch 2170-13
Maximum current (output) at 14.5 V / 6000 rpm	115	110
Voltage setting limits at a speed of 2500 rpm and a current of 5.0 A	13.6 – 15.2	13.6 – 15.2
Gear ratio according to the principle: motor - converter	1 : 2.4	1 : 2.4

Due to its smaller height, Bosch 110A is 10 mm lower than its analogue. Despite the minor advantages, BOSCH has one “fat” drawback - there is no possibility of quick (cold) replacement of the diode bridge in the event of its failure.

The electrical contacts are soldered into the bridge; quick replacement of the rectifier on the road will not work. At KZATE it is quite possible and acceptable to replace the rectifier on the road.

Addresses of companies providing generator replacement services (Moscow, St. Petersburg, Kyiv regions)

№	Name	Address
1.	"Autopoints"	Moscow, Varshavskoe highway, 33 https://avtotochki.ru/
2.	"ZenitAuto"	Moscow, metro station Perovo, Kuskovskaya st., 20A (next to the Enthusiasts Highway) https://www.zenitauto.ru/
3.	"RemZone"	St. Petersburg, Vasilievsky Island, st. Uralskaya, 17A https://www.spb-remzona.ru/
4.	"Autopoints"	St. Petersburg, Lesnoy Avenue, 78 https://spb.avtotochki.ru
5.	"Dzigora Complex"	m. Darnitsa, st. City Shalet 1A https://dzigoracomplex.kiev.ua/
6.	"VseSTO"	Kyiv, st. Kikvidze 43 https://vse-sto.com.ua/

Difference between belts of 16 and 8 valve engines

For Lada Granta models, an alternator belt with the following markings is used:

1118-1041020-07: search index 6RK 823, length 823 mm, thickness 3.0 mm;
6PK1123 with air conditioning;
6PK1113 without air conditioning, with power steering;
6PK745 without air conditioning, without power steering.

How to solve the belt problem

During the production of the car, this issue was discussed several times on thematic forums. The problem of the “Granta” generator failing was solved by motorists, but not by the manufacturer, who preferred, if necessary, to simply replace the defective unit under warranty.

The rationalization thought of car enthusiasts moved in the following directions:

Replacement of the original Lada Granta KZATE 115A generator with a Bosch product with a capacity of 110 A.
Replacing the bolt that secures the generator in its bracket. The point is to choose the smallest diameter with the same length. Then, due to the play in the fastening hole, the belt gets a looser tension.
Changing the fastening. In this case, free play is added by widening the mounting holes of the generator bracket with a round file. In this case, the bracket moves towards the crankshaft pulley. This results in a slight adjustment. This method is better than the previous one, however, by changing the design of the car, you may lose warranty service.
Replacing the bracket. This option involves replacing it with Lada Kalina fasteners. It has an adjustable tension roller. At the same time, the bracket for the “Grants” generator is changed, the tension roller bracket is installed, and then a belt from the “Lada Kalina” is used.

The price of this modification is about 2000 rubles. This option also voids the factory warranty.

Review of prices of generator manufacturers for the Lada Granta

Manufacturer article number	Price, rub.)	Resource (thousand km)
KZATE 9402.3701-14	From 4900	90 — 110
BOSCH 21700-3701010-13	From 5300 – 5500	90 — 110

Recommendations for choosing a converter

In order to ensure stable operation of the power supply system, replace the standard KZATE converter with a BOSCH one. Despite identical technical characteristics, the workmanship of the latter is better.

Also, the BOSCH generator better “transfers” loads in the network from activated equipment, optics, and heaters.

The service life of both KZATE and BOSCH is within 90 – 110 thousand km. mileage Moderate loads and average driving speeds will increase the service life by 10 - 15%.

What affects the service life of a wheel bearing?

The main function of the bearing is to fix the rotating axis. The wheel bearing is made from durable metal alloys because it must withstand high pressure. It also distributes the load evenly across all parts of the car, which is especially important when increasing speed and sharp braking. There are metal balls inside the bearing, which distribute the weight.

The service life of a wheel bearing is on average 100,000 km. Exceeding the mileage leads to accelerated wear of the part and further damage. In addition, the reasons for wear of the part are:

low-quality materials;
incorrect selection and installation of bearings;
poor quality of lubricant;
aggressive driving.

In addition, a low-quality wheel bearing breaks much earlier than expected, so preference should be given to durable components from reliable suppliers.

List of online stores providing goods (Moscow, St. Petersburg, Kyiv region)

№	Name	Address
1.	"Autopasker"	https://avtopasker.ru/
2.	"TopDetail"	https://topdetal.ru/
3.	"Close"	https://spb.blizko.ru/
4.	"Avtosklad"	https://www.avtostore.spb.ru/
5.	"Almaz-Auto"	https://almaz-auto.com.ua/
6.	"Doka-Market"	https://doka-market.prom.ua/

Method number 2

How to check the rear wheel bearing and the front one? It is not necessary to look for a flat area for this. You can put your car on a lift. Next, you should grab the top and bottom of the tire with your hands and shake it a little in a horizontal or vertical plane. Any backlash is excluded. If you see that the wheel is wobbling with a gap, it means that the wheel bearing has become unusable. Note that a slight play is allowed on the rear wheels. But its magnitude barely exceeds hundredths of a degree. On the front axle, play is not allowed at all.

Reviews

№	Positive
1.	Victor: This is my second year driving a Lada Granta, there are no comments, the mechanisms work properly. At 35,000 km I tightened the converter belt. I didn’t contact the service, I did everything on my own.
2.	Vitaly: I’ve been actively using the car for three years now, I haven’t made any special investments, only the purchase of consumables, oils, filters. I think it is important to comply with technical inspection deadlines and buy original parts.
3.	Ivan: I bought a car at the dealership, the managers recommended strictly observing the maintenance deadlines. I don’t break rules, I always put down marks on time. I take care of my equipment and treat it with care.
4.	Kirill: at 45,000 km I tightened the converter belt and visited the service center. The master assured that the old one was still worth several tens of thousands.
5.	Valentin: during the year of using the car, the converter creaked once, I thought about changing it, but the creaking disappeared on its own. There are no complaints about quality, all mechanisms work properly.
6.	Ignat: at 97,000 km I replaced the converter belt. I consider the resource quite worthy of a domestic car.
7.	Vladislav: I’ve heard negative criticism of the Lada Grant, but I can’t confirm it, since the car works like a watch. I systematically carry out inspections, fill in high-quality oils, and do not exceed the speed limit.
Negative
1.	Gennady: for the first time the converter flew 40,000 km. I visited the service center and they replaced it under warranty. We'll see how long the new one lasts.
2.	Vasily: despite the manufacturer’s warranty of 100,000 km, my generator lasted only 60,000 km. The workmanship is low. The Granta model is raw, not run-in.
3.	Ignat: I do not recommend the Lada Granta, since during the year of use I visited the service station twice unscheduled for diagnostics and replacement. In addition, the generator failed ahead of schedule.

Warranty repair of LADA car

The AutoGERMES company is an official dealer of LADA and fully supports the warranty obligations of the manufacturer PJSC AVTOVAZ.

Warranty obligations are valid for:

Timely and mandatory implementation by the consumer of scheduled vehicle maintenance (MOT) in the official LADA service center and inspection work to identify defects in paintwork and anti-corrosion coating of the car body;
Availability of a service book, warranty card and compliance with their requirements (in case of loss or damage, you must urgently contact the official LADA service);
Compliance with the requirements of the “Operation Manual”;
Making changes to the vehicle design, factory settings, parameters of electronic control units and software only in the official LADA service and approved by PJSC AVTOVAZ;
Compliance with the technology of vehicle repair and maintenance performed only in the official LADA service center;
Timely elimination of other faults after their detection in the official LADA service;
Using high-quality automotive components, consumables and fuel.

* The final decision on troubleshooting the car is made by the official service of LADA or PJSC AVTOVAZ.

Detailed information about the terms of the warranty is described in the warranty card.

How to take advantage of car warranty repairs

Contact the official LADA service company AutoHERMES and present the following documents:

Warranty card;
Service book;
Vehicle registration certificate;
A document confirming the right to drive a car.

Provide your car to the LADA service center of AutoHERMES to confirm the presence of a malfunction and we will do everything for you.

If it is impossible to move the vehicle under its own power, you must contact the nearest official LADA service center to organize on-site repairs or evacuation of the vehicle.

If the malfunction is confirmed within the warranty, evacuation will be carried out free of charge.

The warranty period for a new LADA Vesta car is 36 months or 100,000 km (whichever comes first)

The warranty period is 6 years for all body parts of LADA cars against through corrosion.

If control and inspection work on the condition of the paintwork and anti-corrosion coating of the body is untimely, according to the coupons of the “Service Book”, the manufacturer’s warranty on the body is lost. During the first year of operation of the vehicle, control and inspection work on the condition of the paintwork and anti-corrosion coating of the body is carried out no later than the day of taking the measures according to the technical service coupon No. 1 for the vehicle.

The warranty period is calculated from the day the car is handed over to the first owner.

The manufacturer's warranty obligations are valid provided that the consumer promptly and compulsorily performs scheduled maintenance of the vehicle at authorized organizations of the manufacturer. Elimination of malfunctions in the vehicle that arose during the warranty period due to the fault of the manufacturer is carried out at the expense of the manufacturer. Troubleshooting of operational faults and work performed according to maintenance coupons and control and inspection work on the condition of the paintwork and anti-corrosion coating of the body are carried out at the expense of the consumer. At the consumer's expense, diagnostic work is also carried out, carried out on his initiative and not related to the elimination of faults that arose due to the fault of the manufacturer during the warranty period, operational adjustments due to improper operation of the vehicle, exposure to external and other factors, including: cleaning the fuel system, adjusting angles wheel installation, engine adjustment, brake inspection and adjustment, clutch adjustment. Warranty obligations are valid if scheduled maintenance is performed in a timely manner.

Warranty for individual components:

36 months or 50,000 km (whichever comes first) Ends, struts, tie rod bushings and anti-roll bars, ball joints, silent blocks, rubber-metal joints, supports and compression stroke buffers for struts, suspension arms and power units, drive wheel drives with protective covers, rubber hoses and pipes, headlights, switches, switches and component control devices (control modules: lighting, power windows, heated seats), manual brake cables, flexible hoses of the front and rear brakes, water and electric fuel pumps, expansion tank and its Components.
24 months Rechargeable batteries.
12 months or 35,000 km (whichever comes first) Shock absorbers, rolling bearings, exhaust gas system elements, including catalytic converters, oxygen sensors.

The warranty does not apply to:

Corrosion processes of fasteners, suspension parts, transmission, engine, body elements and its trim, parts that are not body elements (wheel rims, exhaust system parts, etc.), which may appear during the operation of the vehicle;
Damage to the paintwork of the body (chips, scratches, abrasions), including erosive wear of other protective coatings (chips, abrasion of mastic and primer), abrasion of the paintwork of the body at the points of contact of mating parts, loss of shine, clouding, discoloration that occurred in during the operation of the car. Corrosion damage to the body: joints of parts, welds, places of installation of side window coverings and places of fastening of threaded connections;
Normal noise and vibration levels;
For malfunctions and damage, the direct or indirect cause of which could be the dismantling, disassembling and repair of components, parts, assemblies, assemblies or the vehicle as a whole, as well as installation of any additional equipment, replacement or modification of controller software by unauthorized organizations of the manufacturer, as well as making changes to the design of the car;
For malfunctions and damage to parts, components and assemblies of the vehicle in the absence or damage of the manufacturer’s identification markings on them;
Malfunctions that arose as a result of failure to eliminate or untimely elimination of other malfunctions after their detection by the authorized organization of the manufacturer, as well as those arising as a result of work performed in unauthorized organizations of the manufacturer;
Routine work during scheduled maintenance, including diagnostic and adjustment work, as well as materials and components consumed during this;
Malfunctions resulting from the use of operating materials, oils and fuels not recommended by the manufacturer;
Consumable automotive components, including fuels and lubricants and operating fluids of all vehicle systems, wiper blades, fuses, filters, lamps, spark plugs, drive belts and related rollers, tires, brake pads, discs and drums, release bearing and clutch discs. In the event of a manufacturing defect or material defect, these parts are replaced under warranty;
Malfunctions and damage as a result of mechanical, chemical, thermal or other external influences in the following cases: - traffic accidents, impacts, scratches, traces of stones and other solid objects, hail, actions of third parties; — exposure to chemically active substances that pollute the environment, including those used to prevent freezing of road surfaces, substances of plant origin and animal waste products

Do-it-yourself diagnostics

As we have already said, a failed bearing element will lead to the appearance of new noise that is uncharacteristic of the normal operation of the car.

There are several ways to diagnose the performance of parts:

When the car turns left, the main load falls on the right wheel, and vice versa. You need to drive your car, turning sharply in different directions. If, when turning left at a speed of 15 km/h, you hear the noise disappear, this indicates that a worn bearing is installed on the left wheel hub.
To make a more accurate check, you will need to drive the car on a lift or raise the front or rear of the car with a jack, depending on which drive is installed. If the drive is front-wheel drive, then the front of the vehicle is raised. After this, start the engine and increase the speed by shifting to fourth gear. When the speedometer shows 80 km/h, you need to depress the clutch and put it in neutral - then get out of the car and try to determine the source of the hum by ear. If the wheel you suspect is not a drive wheel, then you can simply spin it by hand. When the wheel stops, try rocking it with your hands up and down, and then left and right. If you notice that there is even a small gap, this indicates wear of the bearing device. Remember - if the bearing is functional, then any play is eliminated .

Photo gallery “Replacing a part in a VAZ car”

Once you identify a failed part, you will need to replace it - either with your own hands or at a service station. When carrying out repair work, you need to remember that the main requirement is cleanliness. Also try not to use sharp tools, as careless handling can damage the sealing part of the part.

Causes of malfunctions

The resource of this part is very impressive and can reach 100 thousand km, subject to gentle operation. Modern realities show that the front hub bearing can become unusable much earlier than the specified regulatory period.

Next, we will identify three significant factors that can cause premature wear of a part such as the front wheel bearing in a Lada Granta car.

The state of domestic roads, the quality of which is far from ideal. When driving over bumps, the front wheel bearing experiences enormous stress. Also, critical temperatures and dynamic impacts (shocks) can have a negative impact on their condition. All this leads to the structure of the material from which the front hub bearing is made losing its strength properties, which provokes destructive processes.
Exposure to aggressive environments. Due to the structural location of the bearing, it is doomed to constant contact with moisture, dirt and other negative atmospheric factors. The influence of heat and cold is also detrimental to his condition.
Increased operating temperature. During the rotation process, natural heat generation occurs. Temperature changes, especially in winter, also have a detrimental effect on the strength parameters of the product.

Why do bearings fail?

As a rule, the service life of these parts is quite long. But despite the fact that they can function for a long time in difficult conditions, in fact they wear out after a mileage of 100 thousand km.

For what reasons do wheel hub bearings fail:

natural wear and tear;
long-term off-road use of the vehicle;
poor quality seal;
poor lubrication of parts;
errors made during installation (the author of the video is the VAZ 2101-2107 REPAIR AND MAINTENANCE channel).

Helpful advice

When purchasing a new bearing, it is important to check that it contains grease. Often unscrupulous manufacturers do not report it to the required level. As a result, the element is constantly subjected to stress and fails.

It is not uncommon for a part to break down after 3,000 km (especially on UAZ vehicles). The best option is to gut out all the existing grease and apply a new one, purchased separately. Fortunately, specialized lubricants are now sold. They are resistant to washout and do not change properties at high temperatures.