Car side members (front and rear), what are they and what are they for

Body repair prices are valid subject to the normal condition of threaded fastening connections (nuts, bolts, screws, etc.) that can be unscrewed normally without additional heating, and the use of special equipment. liquids and agents. For cars older than 7 years, a coefficient of 1.25 is introduced.

We have indicated prices for the main types of car body repairs. If you did not find the work you need in our price list, this does not mean that we do not do it. Our body shop performs the full range of body repair work.

The assessment of body work for each car is a purely individual matter. Please call and describe the breakdown or your question to our specialist in as much detail as possible. This will help us provide more detailed advice and understand the essence of the problem. Call - HERE IS YOUR PHONE NUMBER

Name of repair work	Price, rub.
1. Painting work.
Painting the front fender of a car	from 5 000
Painting the rear fender of a car	from 5 000
Painting the front car door	from 5 000
Car rear door painting	from 5 000
Car hood painting	from 6 000
Car rear bumper painting	from 5 000
Car front bumper painting	from 5 000
Car trunk lid painting	from 5 000
Car roof painting	from 6 000
Painting the front panel of a car	from 5 000
Painting the rear panel of a car	from 5 000
Painting the rear panel of a car	from 5 000
Painting the car trunk floor panel	from 4 000
Car exterior mirror painting (with installation)	from 2 000
Find out the cost of repairs from photos in 10 minutes!
Full car body painting	from 70 000

Repair of the front side member on a VAZ 2101 – 2107 car

Spars on VAZ “classic” cars, i.e.
VAZ from the first to the seventh models have the same design. The weak points of these side members are the mounting points for the steering mechanism, cross beam, stabilizer bar mounting and on the right side of the pendulum mounting. By design, these places cannot be called weak, since it is in these fastening points inside the spar that amplifiers are installed, but they also do not withstand our road conditions and the service life of these vehicles. Since the beginning of this spring, several cars have already been received for repair of side members at the place where the beam is attached and the steering mechanism is attached. Basically, cracks on the side members are discovered by technicians when diagnosing the chassis and refuse to adjust the wheel alignment angles until these defects are eliminated. The main cause of cracks is loose fastenings, road conditions, and, as they say, metal fatigue.

Most often, the rigidity of the steering mechanism fastening on the left front spar is broken and a crack appears in the area of the lower mounting bolt, resulting in a backlash of the body relative to the spar, which significantly affects the violation of wheel toe adjustment. In the initial stage, there may not be a crack, but play has already appeared, this indicates that there is a crack on the amplifier, inside the spar. All this means that this defect cannot be eliminated by simple welding on the outside of the spar, and it is impossible to weld along the mounting plane, since the correct installation of the steering mechanism will be disrupted.

In this situation, an operation is required to penetrate the internal cavity of the spar, the procedure for which we will familiarize ourselves with. Read more »

gaingak.livejournal.com

Spy photos, overcooking of VAZ 2107 side members) — Lada 2107, 1.6 l., 1985 on DRIVE2

-Hello everyone!) -In general, as stated in the last entry, my right spar and beam burst (( -Since I noticed the cracks at the stage, big problems passed me by) -But I couldn’t do without replacing the beam and side members, because to remove the beam, it was necessary to saw it off from the side members “For which a HUGE thank you!” to the previous owner, he just welded the whole thing... -For this reason, I had to change the left side members, another problem arose when I started sawing them out... -It took me it took 3 or 4 days, I don’t remember, everything was welded with a seam, not a single point... so it wasn’t easy. - After cleaning, preparing and finally adjusting the spars themselves. - It wasn’t so easy to push them in, but after screwing the beam everything was aligned , I spent 2 days on this by the way =) -I hit all the holes, inserted the bolts, opened the inside with bars, and of course welded it) -I welded it semi-automatically with carbon dioxide, of course I’m still a welder, but it turned out better than some one hundred in our city “How sad is this not.” -After welding, I decided to unscrew the beam, I thought I would knock it out, but no, to my great joy it came off very easily) -Cleaning the seams, priming and painting the engine compartment are coming)))

-Like and comment!)

Issue price: 3,000 ₽

Prevention of spars

In order for the car to serve for a long time, it is advisable to monitor the condition of the side members and carry out preventive maintenance. Correcting the spar is very expensive, so it is better to monitor it and carry out routine preventive maintenance. Since the inside of the spars is hollow, dirt and moisture can accumulate in them, which leads to metal corrosion. Therefore, it is advisable to apply anti-corrosion mixtures at least once a year before winter. You can find out what the spar looks like from the instructions for the car, which shows the load-bearing elements. This also usually shows drainage holes through which a protective anti-corrosion agent should be applied. In addition, it is advisable to avoid excessive loads on the car body. Under severe overload and operation in difficult conditions, the side members may burst or bend. If it is necessary to use the machine in difficult conditions, a spar amplifier can be installed. This part allows you to reduce the load and extend the service life of the spar. It is necessary to monitor the condition of the car, especially the supporting elements. If it is operated in difficult conditions or driven at high speed on bad roads, it is advisable to regularly check the condition of the side members. Many used cars are sold after cosmetic repairs. In this case, the side members may be rotten or burst, although the car body looks like new.

Measuring distances between body control points

Measuring the distances between control points must be done before, during and after pulling. Measuring the geometric parameters of the body helps determine the direction of pulling. Measuring while drawing helps to check that the drawing is correct. Measurements after pulling show the correctness of the final result. Measurements can be taken with a tape measure or a special ruler to check the geometry of the body. You need to take diagonal measurements and length measurements between points. You can read more about measurements in the article “Checking body geometry.” It is advisable to have data on the distances between test points, which can be found in repair manuals.

An example of a diagram with the location of control points and the distances between them.

The test points must be returned to the original factory position. An error of several millimeters is allowed.

Body structure of the VAZ 2101

Before we begin tuning the body of the VAZ 2101, I consider it necessary to take a detailed look at this most important part of our vehicle. So, the body of the VAZ 2101 is a rigid spatial truss made of steel, which consists of sequentially assembled, non-separable elements:

So, the body of the VAZ 2101 is a rigid spatial truss made of steel, which consists of sequentially assembled, non-separable elements:

1	Base (bottom) assembled with front part and rear panel
2	"Plumage" of the front part
3	The left and right sidewalls are in line with the rear “tail”
4	Roof

The base is a trough-shaped, all-stamped panel with a tunnel in the center. The tunnel has two functions:

Protects the elements placed in it from damage (in our case, the driveshaft is located in it);
Increases underbody resistance to torsion/deformation, as do side members welded along the base*.

Spar* is a stamped steel beam with a box-shaped section.

Profile view

In the front part they are combined into a single whole:

The front side members serve as power elements carrying the front suspension with the power unit;
Front shield;
Panel;
Wings;
Mudguards.

The rear section also contains mudguards and a luggage compartment panel.

Side view

The left and right sidewalls consist of outer and inner panels connected to each other:

The outer panel consists of the C-pillar, A-pillar, B-pillar, sill and rear fender;
The internal panel includes many power elements (strut amplifiers, etc.).

View from above

And finally, the all-stamped structure, reinforced with cross members, is called the roof of the car.

The elements of the body shell are made by stamping from thin sheet steel. The low weight, high strength and durability of such a design fully comply with the basic requirements of the functionality inherent in it.

Next, its removable elements are mounted to this resulting one-piece welded body:

Trunk lid;
Hood;
Doors;
Front facing;
Decorative elements, etc. accessories.

But there is no point in flattery going into extraneous “wilds”; let’s continue the conversation about strengthening the body of classic vases.

Spar malfunctions

Every day when using a vehicle, the spar experiences serious loads. Over time, the strength factor of the metal decreases (“metal fatigue”) and the beam becomes less strong or may even “burst.” If the use is intensive and prolonged, cracks may appear on the part. Such changes reduce the ability of the spar to perform its intended functions.

Signs of side member malfunctions:

cracks and gaps appear on the outside of the machine that cannot be adjusted;
deterioration of steering control - the car “drives” to the right and left;
doors close and open poorly;
there is incorrect wheel alignment;
tire wear accelerates (the car “chews” the wheels).

If such changes are observed, then the likely cause is deformation of the spar

It is important to correct the problem in a timely manner

Repair and replacement of spar

In the event of an accident, specialists first inspect the spar to make sure that it has not moved out of place. No wonder. If this happens, then it is impossible to straighten, stretch or strengthen it with your own hands. The spar can be corrected only at a specialized body inspection and straightening stand - a caroliner, by disassembling half of the car.

As practice shows, it is very difficult to reassemble it. Replacing a spar with another is also not easy. But in the conditions of a regular car service it is impossible. In simple words, a cracked spar is a death sentence for a body that no longer meets reliability requirements. Editing, straightening and stretching of the car spar in a car service occurs when the spar is slightly deformed or bent.

The decision to straighten or completely replace the spar can only be made by a specialist. He must determine the degree of deformation of the part. As a rule, if the distortion is not severe over a long length, replacement may not be necessary. Such a bevel can be restored using a jack or square without changing the characteristics of the body.

However, if the damage is significant, the spar will have to be replaced with another one, but in this case the strength and characteristics of the body will change

That’s why it’s so important when buying a used car to pay attention not so much to the appearance of the car or engine, but to the geometry of the body and the condition of the side members.

1200 rub. for the photo report

We pay for photo reports on car repairs. Earnings from 10,000 rubles/month.

Write:

The problem of failure of the VAZ 2108/2109 side member is not a pleasant situation, but this does not mean that it cannot be corrected. There are two ways to fix the problem: replacement or welding, DIY repair or in a workshop. You will learn further how to make the right choice.

Hood of VAZ 2107

VAZ 2107 owners often modify the hood of the car. First of all, the lid stop, which was made at the factory in an extremely inconvenient way, changes. First you need to remove it from the latch and only then close it. On the VAZ 2106, the same stop is designed much simpler and more functional.

Installing an air intake on the hood

An air intake or snorkel is often installed on the hood of the VAZ 2107, which improves the appearance of the car and helps cool the engine. It is mounted so that air flows directly onto the air filter. Sometimes additional pipes are installed to the main air intake to increase cooling efficiency.

The snorkel is usually made by hand. In this case, it is better to use durable plastic or metal as a material. The air intake is mounted as follows.

A U-shaped hole is cut in the hood with a grinder.
The cut out part of the hood is bent to form the snorkel profile.
Triangular metal pieces are welded along the edges to cover the ends of the part.
The hood is puttied and painted to match the body color.

When cutting the hood, it is important not to touch the stiffeners provided by the design. Otherwise, the strength of the body will noticeably decrease.

The air intake on the hood of the VAZ 2107 changes the appearance of the car and improves engine cooling

Hood lock

Sometimes car owners modify the hood lock of the VAZ 2107. If it does not work well or fails, the mechanism is dismantled. It is recommended to first outline the lock with a marker - this will avoid adjusting a new or restored lock. The mechanism is removed in the following order.

The hood opens.
The lock cable clamps come out of their seats.
The bent end of the cable is straightened with pliers. The fixing sleeve is removed.
Use a 10mm wrench to unscrew the lock nuts.
The lock is removed from the pins.
A well-oiled new lock is installed.

When replacing the cable, it is first disconnected from the lever handle. This is done from the salon. Then the cable is pulled out of its sheath. Nowadays, cables are often sold complete with a sheath. In this case, when replacing the old cable, it is pulled out along with the casing.

A brief excursion into history

The development of the spar and the creation of various body elements are closely interrelated. This is not surprising, because on the first vehicles only frames were used as support.

At first they were made of wood, but over time they were replaced by durable metal structures.

In the last century, in the 1920s, Auburn developed the first spar frame with an "X" cross member.

Over time, the parts were improved and became one with the bottom of the vehicle.

At the present stage, spars are an integral part of the machine design, regardless of the type of supporting system.

Spar constriction

Since structural elements have a certain elasticity, after they are pulled to the desired parameters, they tend to return a little when the pulling force is weakened.

Restretching means extending the damage slightly beyond the original control point location. Thus, the reupholstery helps compensate for this return. When the pulling force is weakened, the spar returns to the desired position.

Re-upholstering should be done carefully, with constant control of dimensions. It is better to try to tighten it a few millimeters, then loosen the force, measure the distances and, if necessary, increase the size of the waist.

Method of strengthening spars

Overlays for strengthening the side members

The main way to strengthen the front side members on a Niva 2121 car is to install a ready-made set of linings. Those available for sale cost between 3000-4000 rubles, they look like semi-handicraft production. Here we simply reproduced a drawing of a part that is freely available. Agree that it’s impossible to think of anything more sophisticated in appearance and price for a budget car for off-road driving. The kit includes a reinforcement in the form of steel sheets (3 mm thick) and shock absorbers for brackets (4 mm thick). If you have excess free time, but no money, then you can make the overlay yourself; the drawing of the Niva 2121 spar overlay for KOMPAS can be freely downloaded on the Internet. But it is better to “cut out” the part based on a cardboard pattern, which can be made based on the existing spar. Then, using a 3mm thick steel sheet, the part is cut out with a grinder. Since you will still need access to them, we present an algorithm for dismantling the surrounding units of the Niva 2121.

How to access the side members

You will need to drive the Niva 2121 onto an overpass or a lift. Then the wheels are dismantled.
Remove the caliper by unscrewing the clamp
Using the “lever” technique or a hammer, knock out the knot
Loosen both shock-absorbing fasteners
Hang the brake system cylinder on the hoses
Removing the upper arm, upper bump stop and cup
Releasing the gearbox and steering pendulum

So, let's move on to the next part of the work on strengthening the side members of the Niva 2121 - installing the linings:

Check the quality of the seat for the shock absorbers.

Note! The trim must be in close contact with the spar!

If you have already made a part of the lining, the drawing of which was somehow received - congratulations - the main stage of work on strengthening the side members is behind you.

Drill holes on the side members and the freshly made trim
The cover is bolted on and securely secured.
Using semi-automatic welding, the part is processed around the perimeter
A “house” is installed, which in turn is also welded

Attention! The working surface must be covered with anti-corrosive. The mastic will fit perfectly, drying in just 24 hours

It is also possible that the spars are partially destroyed. Sometimes they can be restored. Otherwise, only replacement is possible.

strengthening the spar and rear stub — Lada 2107, 1.6 l., 2003 on DRIVE2

Once upon a time, one trouble was noticed at the wheel alignment: a burst spar under the steering gearbox. In principle, this is familiar to those who have had greens for a long time. These plates were purchased from Ilyusha Polikarpov for reinforcement.

they are welded on both sides to each spar. Everything was stripped down to metal and welded. Then the seam is sealed with joint compound, primed, painted and covered with mastic

Now about the stabilizer. After driving around, I realized that the ass was soft, the car's stock screws were so good (I decided to try to tighten it up with a stub. I didn't reinvent the wheel, but stupidly copy how everything in the E30 is. On Avito I found a stock E30 stub for pennies, took it right away (for the future I'll change it from M , on the one that is thicker). Surprisingly, everything fits in size. Well, of course, without welding and an angle grinder, there’s nowhere. The attachment to the levers was made exactly the same as the E30, only from thicker metal

Full size

boiled and painted

To the body I welded a part of the profile with a hole for a bolt and a plate, like a groove, into which a plate is inserted for clamping the rubber band of the stub.

Full size

The bones are the same as the BMW E30, the only drawback is that on low cars the bones will rest against the body, I have a margin of 1 cm left with the suspension as compressed as possible. In the future, when replacing the bones, I will install from E34, they are half the height

Full size

That's all) then re-welding the floors where the front jacks are and welding normal fastenings for the buckets...

Replacing the rear spar of VAZ 2105/07 cars

Since the beginning of this spring, several cars have already been received for repair of side members at the place where the beam is attached and the steering mechanism is attached. Basically, cracks on the side members are discovered by technicians when diagnosing the chassis and refuse to adjust the wheel alignment angles until these defects are eliminated. The main cause of cracks is loose fastenings, road conditions, and, as they say, metal fatigue.

In this situation, an operation is required to penetrate the internal cavity of the spar, the procedure for which we will familiarize ourselves with.

The internal steering gear mounting reinforcements can be accessed from the mudguard side; in this case, you need to remove the left front wheel and unscrew the lower steering gear mounting bolt without completely disconnecting it.

We drill out several welding points (the number of points depends on the required size of the window, in our case there are 4 of them) and cut them out with a grinder as shown in Figure 1. We cut them down along the edge. As can be seen in Figure 2, a second layer has appeared - this is an amplifier, which also needs to be removed.

Around the hole you can see three points that also need to be drilled - this is the fastening of the spacer sleeve to the inside of the amplifier and then open it. In this case, the spacer sleeve no longer held on the inner wall of the spar and was removed along with the amplifier plate, as we see in Figure 3.

And here is a crack that definitely had to be there and it is located on the amplifier, as a result of which the spacer sleeve broke off during welding at three points. Next, you need to weld everything and install the reinforcing lining of your design.

In order to accurately install the spacer sleeve, we tighten it with the same fastening bolt, only with a nut on the side of the steering mechanism, which is in its place and does not interfere with the repair of the spar. We weld the bushing with three points.

Next, remove the bolt and weld the window with the same overlays and through the drilled holes.

All that remains is to treat the welding areas with anti-corrosion materials, install the lower steering gear mounting bolt, install the front left wheel and the repair is complete.

In this case, the destruction of the spar was at the initial stage, so the window had to be cut to a minimum size and only one bolt was unscrewed. As they say, any treatment is always easier to carry out at the initial stage, and the result is always better.

Protective polishing of the body

Protective body polishingfrom 10,0002. Slipworks.installation of a car on a slipwayfrom 2,000removal of a simple misalignment of the car bodyfrom 5,000removal of a misalignment of the body of a medium-complex carfrom 10,000removal of a complex misalignment of the body of a foreign carfrom 12,0003. Reinforcement works.removing the front bumper of a car complete from 1,000installing the front bumper of a car assembling from 1,000removing the rear bumper of a car assembling from 1,000installing the rear bumper of a car assembling from 1,000rear bumper disassembling from 500car rear bumper - assembled from 500front bumper disassembling from 1,000car front bumper - assembled from 1,000car front door - disassemble, assemble for painting from 2,000 car rear door - disassemble, assemble for painting from 2,000 foreign car front, rear door - replacement with reinforcement overhaul from 2,500 car front, rear assembly - replacement with adjustment to the opening from 2,500 side mirror of foreign cars without electric drive - replacement from 500 foreign car mirror side with electric drive -replacement from 500replacement of front headlight from 500replacement of rear headlight from 5004. Replacement of body parts.Replacement of a car hood from 2,000 Replacement of a car trunk lid from 2,000 Replacement of a removable front wing from 2,000 Replacement of a car roof without a sunroof assembly from 10,000 Replacement of a car roof with a sunroof assembly from 15,000 Replacement of a front spar with a mudguard from 7,500 Replacement of a car's rear panel from 7,500 Replacement of a front panel complete carfrom 4,000Replacement car side sill assembly from 6,000 Replacement of the middle pillar with part of the sill assembly from 10,0005. Repair of body parts.Repair No. 1 of the side of a car - sedan 10,000 Repair No. 2 of the side of a car - sedan 13,000 Repair of No. 3 of the side of a car - sedan 16,000 Repair of No. 4 of the side of a car - sedan contractual Repair of the side of a car - station wagon No. 112,000 Repair of the side of a car - station wagon No. 214,000 Repair of the side of a car - station wagon No. 318,000 Repair of the side of a car car - station wagon No. 4 negotiablerepair of front car mudguard No. 12,000repair of front car mudguard No. 23,000repair of front car mudguard No. 34,500repair of front car mudguard No. 4negotiablerepair of front car door No. 11,500repair of rear car door No. 11,500repair of rear car door No. 23,000repair of front car door No. 23,000repair of the front door of a car No. 34,500repair of the rear door of a car No. 34,500repair of the front door of a car No. 4 negotiablerepair of the rear door of a car No. 4 negotiablerepair of the hood of a car No. 11,500repair of the hood of a car No. 23,000repair of the hood of a car No. 35,000repair of the hood of a car No. 4 negotiablerepair of the front fender of a car No. 11,000repair of the front car fender No. 22,000repair of the front fender of car No. 33,500repair of the front fender of car No. 4 negotiablerepair of the roof panel of the car No. 11,500repair of the roof panel of the car No. 23,000repair of the roof panel of the car No. 36,000repair of the roof panel of the car No. 4 negotiablerepair of the car trunk lid No. 1, 5th door1,500repair No. 2 of the car trunk lid, 5th door3,000repair No. 3 of the car trunk lid, 5th door5,000repair No. 4 of the car trunk lid, 5th doornegotiablerepair of the rear panel of the car No.12,500repair of the rear panel of the car No.24,000repair of the rear panel of the car No.36,500repair rear panel of car No. 4 negotiablerepair of foreign-made sidewall threshold cost 2,0006. Additional body workRestoration of cloudy plastic headlights of foreign cars 800Abrasive polishing of the car bodyfrom 8,000Protective polishing of the car body5,000 - 10,000

Find out the cost of repairs from photos in 10 minutes!

In road accidents, side members are often deformed. The lion's share of such cases occurs in the front part of the car body. The part itself performs the function of volume shock absorbers and amplifiers for mudguards, hood and trunk. When replacing or welding, the technology is the same, the only difference is in the use of tools and devices.

–> You will need

- welding machine;
- Sander;
– plasma cutter;
- metal spatula.

Instructions 1 Free the surface to be repaired from parts and components of the engine, chassis and electrical equipment. Most of the work on replacing and repairing side members occurs on the front part of the car.2 Pull out the most damaged side member to its original condition. Do not cut off the deformed part without stretching. This will make it difficult to repair other parts of the body in the future. 3 Take a gas burner and heat the places where the parts are welded. Use a metal putty knife to remove the primer, sealing tape and sound insulation.4 Cut off the spar. When replacing a wheel arch, it does not need to be separated from the part being repaired. 5 Straighten the damaged body parts that are in contact with the spar and prepare a new wheel arch. 6 Cut the part of the new spar to the size of the old one. For this operation, use a plasma cutter or a hand saw. Fitting the new part will be easier if you make the cutout oblique. Replace the front panel and wheel arch.7Take a jack and place it under the side member and secure it. Connect the new spar to other parts with special clamps. Use guide templates for precise installation.8Check that all dimensions match and secure the spar in several places by welding.9Weld the spar into the joint using gas shielded arc welding. Spot weld the wheel arch to the front panel and the repaired part. The welding must be through to ensure the strength of the connection between the parts. 10 Align and grind the welding areas. To do this, use a sanding machine. Tap the places where the side member comes into contact with the wheel arch with a hammer. This will give a closer contact with each other.11 Apply primer coat, soundproofing and sealing tape to the surface. –> Please note: When welding the spar, remember that it is not recommended to strengthen it. In this case, it stops shock-absorbing, which can lead to negative consequences. Helpful advice: Cut the spar in the places specified by the manufacturer. They cannot be located in shock absorption and deformation zones. Sources:

how to digest arches yourself
Replacing the front spar on a VAZ 2101, 2106, 2107

–> Is this advice useful? All videos New videos Popular videos Video categories

Auto	Video blogs	Road accidents	For little ones	Food, drinks
Animals	Law and law	Celebrities	Games	Art
Comedy	Beauty, fashion	Cooking, recipes	People	Moto
Music	Cartoons	Science, technology	News	Education
Policy	Holidays	Jokes	Nature	Incidents
Trips	Entertainment	Rzhach	Family	Series
Sport	Life style	TV programs	Dancing	Technologies
Goods	Horror	Movies	Show Business	Humor

Main newsThe State Traffic Inspectorate is looking for eyewitnesses!”>Results of the preventive event “Safe Road””>Fire safety rules during the spring-summer fire hazard period”>Verkhnyaya Salda firefighters took part in the All-Russian open lesson”>Fire inspections and briefings in churches before Easter”>Results promptly -preventive event “Tinting”>About new opportunities and prospects for the development of “Titanium Valley”>Salda residents are increasingly becoming victims of scammers from ad sites”>Representatives of the veteran organization of the Ministry of Internal Affairs of the Russian Federation “Verkhnesaldinsky” laid flowers at the Monument to the heroes-liquidators of the Chernobyl accident NPP”>Salda police ask citizens to hang up if money is discussed”>Let’s play 0707 = Tele2 = (:HoHmA:) we’re going to Moscow”>Compact irrigator RL 210 from Revyline with fast delivery to Sochi”>Can I buy it inexpensively laptop for corporate purposes”>Orthodontic wax “Revilane” in stock in Izhevsk”>How to gain the trust of the audience? How can an expert gain the trust of the audience at a webinar?”>Compact irrigator Revyline RL 650 is available in Orenburg”>Exclusive furniture to order”>Employees of the Belgorod linear department uncovered the theft”>The day must not come►SWAN: Chernobyl Unexplored►Walkthrough►Part 3″> Is it possible to do an MRI with dental implants? Is it possible to undergo an MRI if you have dental implants? pvpu2g, pvvng-ls, pvkp2g, asbl, sbshv, aabl and others in Russia”>I will buy fluoroplastic FUM tape, FUM harness, fluoroplastic film, surplus stock in Russia”>We buy power cable in Yekaterinburg, region, surplus stock in the Russian Federation”>Fluoroplastic F4 pipe, F4PN tape, I will buy from storage, unclaimed in the Russian Federation”>I will buy fluoroplastic powder throughout Russia, illiquid stock, from storage”>I will buy insulated wire SIP-2, SIP-3, SIP-4, SIP-5, unclaimed, illiquid stock in the Russian Federation” >Fluoroelastomer SKF-26, 26 ONM, SKF-32 I will buy all over Russia, surplus, unclaimed”>Photo LASTOCHKA-OMSK”>Photo”>Photo [email protected] “>Photo west o.”>Photo Olga Gantseva (Nazarova)” >Photo VALERY TSARKOV”>Photo Sergey Reva”>Photo God is love”>Photo lalapta108″>Photo Svetlana Vlasova (Verkhunova)”>Studio headphones32 min. backDarkside is an excellent choice for all hookah connoisseurs45 min. backSteroids1 h. 2 min. backShop for manicure and pedicure1 h. 22 min. backHow to choose the right tonometer?2 hours 58 minutes. backDestruction of cockroaches3 hours 22 minutes. backtax code3 hours 41 minutes backSights of Moscow5 hours 7 minutes backMotorcycles8 hours 27 minutes backoffice with normal output9 hours 52 minutes back Last comments Anna Volkova As it turned out, the task was not so simple: to get the product certified as quickly as possible. Somewhere the cost is just exorbitant...23 hours 49 minutes. agoanna0303good afternoon! I used this article as a recommendation and ordered a portable computer from the website https://my-gadget.com.ua/ May 12, 2022 15:42:39 Website creation in Krasnodar SeoZhdanovCleaning of apartments from the cleaning service https://total-cleaning. ru/ #totalcleaningru #cleaningcompany...May 12, 2022 11:31:07 rom kov Thanks for the article! May 11, 2022 15:18:02 Igor It must be said that the Zlato brand is very praised, at least by my friends who bought jewelry from this company , but what...May 10, 2022 12:53:24grischaeva From the company you can purchase certified desigo software, Siemens controllers, sensors and other equipment...May 8, 2022 22:31:27rom kov I will say that you definitely need to study as much information as possible and read reviews on the Internet about different bookmakers, by... May 7, 2021 9:40:28 rom kov Unfortunately, banks only issue loans to those with a high salary, local registration, and official income. If you don’t have this, then... May 7, 2022 6:46:35 Lilia Razumovskaya Nice young man and educational video! My niece just wants to go to study to become a dentist)?) It seems to me that this... May 6, 2022 9:34:35 Alex1985 I recommend ordering flowers in trusted stores, I buy from Roses Delivery. , I really like Dutch and Kenyan roses....5 May 2022 13:49:44

Hello! The next post on my blog will be about replacing the front side member on a classic VAZ, since this problem can befall both an old, tired car and a fairly fresh one.

Crack on the front side member of a VAZ

In practice, there are three most common problems with the front spar:

Corrosion, the spar rots, and accordingly the front part of the body in the suspension area loses rigidity, a beam or anti-roll bar may fall off
The second option is when the spar does not seem to have holes, but the studs that secure the beam to the spar have broken out.
The third problem is the fatigue of the spar at the place where the steering column is attached; when the steering wheel wobbles, the column body moves.

There are two options, but there is only one solution - replacing the VAZ front spar with your own hands . Practice has proven that it is not necessary to replace the entire spar; it is enough to replace most of it; if, for example, a beam has broken out of the spar, then it is enough to replace the front part of the spar, 10–20 cm long, by the beam mounting studs.

This replacement option is less problematic and suitable for the average user; it gives fewer problems, since when replacing an entire spar, you will need to remove the interior carpet and weld the spar from below, at the junction with the whip. And it’s not particularly convenient to work there, I’ve already replaced more than 10 side members in parts - no problems have arisen with any car, the main reason for asking for a side member replacement is that the studs that secure the beam have broken out.

If you have a problem in the place of the spar where the steering column is attached, then a complete replacement cannot be avoided. When replacing the spar for this reason, I would recommend also increasing the rigidity of the mudguard.

Basic work when repairing a part

If the rigidity of the steering system fixation is violated, a crack will form in the area of the lower fixation bolt on the left front side member. As a result, there is a backlash in the body in relation to this design, which has a negative effect on wheel toe adjustments. If there is no crack, but play has appeared, then we can talk about the presence of a defect on the amplifier, inside the VAZ 2107 spar. It is impossible to fix the problem using conventional welding. It is forbidden to weld along the fixation plane, as the correct installation of the steering mechanism will be disrupted.

Auto mechanics recommend getting to the inner plane of the VAZ 2107 spar. To do this, you will need the following tools: keys, welding, grinder, screwdriver, pencil, ruler. You can approach the mechanism from the side of the mudguard. First, the front left wheel is dismantled by unscrewing the lower bolt securing the steering mechanism.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=ft7NO8ComGQ

Further repairs involve drilling out several welding points. The exact quantity depends on the parameters of the window that is cut using a grinder. The amplifier is removed in the same way.

3 points appear around the hole and are drilled. With their help, the spacer sleeve of the amplifier is attached. Often this element no longer adheres to the inner wall of the VAZ 2107 side member, so it is removed along with the amplifier plate.

Now you can see the crack that has appeared on the amplifier itself. This defect can be eliminated by welding and installing a reinforcing lining. The same mounting bolt is used to install the spacer sleeve. In this case, the nut is screwed on from the side of the steering mechanism, which is in its place (it should not interfere with repair work on the VAZ spar). The bushing is welded with 3 points. After removing the bolt, the window is welded using the same pads. All welding points are treated with special anti-corrosion materials.

Lada 2107 Classic › Logbook › Replacing the belt inserts of the front spar of the classic (beam fastening)

Fireworks to everyone. In general, anyone who reads my bulletin board knows that I am rebuilding the suspension on my 07. So, after I took everything apart, I decided to check the bodywork, so as not to have to disassemble the suspension several times later. And I saw a small crack crawling out from under the beam. Well, I decided to remove the beam and see what it was all about, as I realized later, it was very, very not in vain. I brushed the metal a couple of times and this picture opened up in front of me.

Full size

On the one hand I was upset, on the other I was happy. And the thought immediately settled in my head: “It’s good that I filmed it.” Well, accordingly, it was immediately decided to weld the repair insert. After I bought a repair insert and cut off this part of the spar, I saw this picture).

Full size

I coated the inside of the spar with epoxy primer and began to fit a new repair insert. I didn't expect this here. The workmanship is simply ., in general, one mat. From welding there are only three points and two tacks with an electrode. (It was with an electrode that they didn’t even remove the slag)). First I strengthened it a little, someone welds the bolts tightly, I think this is not an effective method. Let’s say you don’t even weld it right and that’s it, you won’t be able to install the beam, you’ll have to either weld it or drill holes in the beam itself. Therefore, I simply grabbed the plate itself so that it would not rise up, thereby preventing the bolts from turning under any circumstances.

Full size

By the way, the length of the tube is about 1-2 cm longer than the factory one. Therefore, as mentioned above, one checkmate...

Well, I welded the repair insert accordingly.

Full size

I didn’t completely clean the weld seams from below, because it’s very inconvenient, it’s almost impossible to get under the grinder, and cleaning the seams will only make them weaker. And under the beam and dirt it will not be visible at all).

Next, I applied it according to the following scheme: Epoxy primer > Acrylic primer > Paint from a balloon. By the way, I almost didn’t have enough gas, and ended up taking a little shit on the bottom right (you can see it).

Full size

Tomorrow I'll clean the snot from below and everything will be ready).

And at the same time I replaced the bolts on the beam, because these were already rotten, without threads and crooked).

Full size

Good luck everyone on the road!

Do-it-yourself car body exhaust

Body stretching is a very complex process, which is usually performed after an accident, when all distortions in the geometry of the car body are eliminated by applying the opposite force to that received during the accident.

What does it take to pull out damage?

To correct damage of this nature, special tools are always used that can return any part of the car to its previous state; these are hydraulic and screw jacks, which can be used on:

How it works?

Leveling the body shape using jacks should occur in several stages:

This method may involve the use of a vacuum in cases where the concave part has retained the integrity of the paint layer; it will avoid the need to do “cosmetics”. It may cost more, but considering how much it costs to paint a car, such a hood is still cheaper.

It is also possible to use a reverse hammer, but painting cannot be avoided here. The method works like this:

Sometimes, to install a reverse hammer, a hole for a hook may be drilled into which a nut and washer are threaded. Once completed, the hole is treated with putty or welded.

Another method of repairing a body is stretching using a gas torch; it is mainly used to upset the stretched metal and smooth out folds.

You need to work here very carefully, keeping the burner at a distance, otherwise there is a risk of burning the body

Please note that the hood must be completed in a timely manner. This means that you must complete all work at the same time as the surface has completely cooled, otherwise it may return to the wrong position.

The most popular among devices for eliminating deformations of the car body is a special stand:

Also worthy of attention is the easiest way to repair deformations - dismantling the damaged part using an amplifier, which with a 6 mm drill will pass along the perimeter of the weld and separate part of the body from the body. It is straightened and welded into place.

If the entire body is being repaired, then it is necessary to prevent the doors from sagging by placing special trestles under the front and center pillars in the amount required for reliable support.

For each type of deformation, various drawing and straightening methods can be used, all of which are aimed at reducing the extent of interference with the integrity of the body. Therefore, the preferred method of stretching is working with the car body on a stand or using jacks. Small dents can sometimes be eliminated with your own hands using a household hairdryer using heat.

Pulling out the spar

Pulling the spar involves the use of hydraulics (see the article “hydraulic stretching in body repair”) or a winch, mechanical clamps and chains. You need to have a slipway, or concreted hinges in the workshop, or other fastenings that can withstand the load when pulling.

You need to study the damage and understand in which direction you need to pull it. Next you need to secure the body as described above. Then install the pull-out clamps and chains.
To attach the chain to the side member, special clamps/grips are used (for more details, see the article “pulling the car body”). The area where the grip is attached must be cleaned beforehand. Various clamps/grips are used, which are attached to the damaged spar; a chain is attached to the clamp, through which pulling is performed. The size and shape of the grip are selected depending on the location of attachment and the force that will be applied to it.
It is necessary to install the exhaust clamp correctly, along the vector of the exhaust force, so that it does not move under load and damage the spar.

For ease of access to the damaged area, it may be necessary to remove some body parts.
Do not remove damaged parts before pulling. When the control points are in place, then you can change the adjacent damaged elements.
Even if the spar needs to be replaced, it is better to first stretch it out as much as possible.
The damage is repaired in the sequence and direction opposite to its occurrence upon impact. Therefore, it is necessary to determine the direction of the impact and in what sequence the deformation occurred.
Approach the pulling process as if you were doing it with your “bare” hands. This will help you understand how many sequential actions and in what direction you need to do to straighten the spar to its original position.
A single pull is performed for minor damage. For more severe damage, several gradual tractions may be necessary. Multiple tractions are necessary when damage occurs in multiple directions (length, width and height).
First, the damage to the length of the spar is repaired, then the spar is shifted to the desired horizontal position, then its height position is adjusted.
When pulling the spar with a winch and there are no special fastenings at different heights, the height of the pulling action can be adjusted by placing bars or boards of the required length under the chain.
When lifting up or lowering part of the spar, its part up to the bend may need to be fixed.
In modern cars, the structural elements of the body are made of high-strength steel, because of this you should not try to pull out the damage in one stage. Instead, the spar alignment must be done sequentially in several stages. The sequence should consist of pulling, then holding the spar under a pulling load, then adding force, holding again, and so on.
Hydraulics must be applied slowly and gradually. Look at the result. If alignment is not correct, change the angle or direction of impact and try again.
When applying lateral force to a displaced spar using a hydraulic brace, place a block of wood or part of a hardwood board between the spar and the brace so that the point load is dissipated over a large area and the spar is not deformed at the point where the force is applied.
Pull out gradually and periodically measure the position of the spar relative to the control points.
A curved front spar often requires simultaneous forward and side pull. That is, when pulling forward, you need to help the spar by pressing on it from the side, at the bend.

A curved front spar often requires simultaneous lengthening and lateral force at the bend.

When stretching, you need to tap the bulges around the bending area to remove tension in these places. Tapping should be done with a light straightening hammer and many light blows. Do not tap the fold directly, which will only increase the deformation. Sometimes you can tap through a wooden block in hard-to-reach places, and also to distribute the impact over a larger area.
You can heat stubborn areas with a torch. When using heating, the metal must cool on its own, without forced cooling. The side members on modern cars are made of high-strength steel (HSS), which loses its strength when heated, so manufacturers do not recommend the use of heating.
In some cases, in order to remove folds on the spar, it is necessary to cut out an access “window” to its reverse side, which then needs to be welded back. There is a modern tool that is capable of straightening the irregularities and folds of the spar from the inside, which avoids cutting out an access “window” for tapping the folds and heating the spar for easier straightening. We will look at this tool in this article below.

Rail saver repair tool

Tim Gerhards, an American auto body repair specialist who has been working in this field since 1986, has come up with a tool that helps remove dents and bends in side members by attacking the imperfections from the inside. This is a fairly new invention. The tool is called Rail saver (literally translated as spar saver). It is a metal body, to one end of which a hydraulic cylinder connected to a pump is screwed. There is a metal pipe inside the housing.

p, blockquote 23,0,0,0,0 –>

p, blockquote 24,0,0,0,0 –>

A hydraulic cylinder acts on one end of this pipe, and at the other end there is a wedge, which gradually lifts the part of the body where the wedge is also located. It turns out something like a long jack, which is inserted inside the spar to the place where the bend is located and the bend or dent is applied from inside the spar. Anvils of different shapes, which are included in the kit, can be screwed to the place in the tool that rises. Thus, this tool can work on dents and folds caused by the displacement of the side member from the inside.

p, blockquote 25,0,0,0,0 –> A tool for straightening the side members from inside the Rail saver is placed inside the side member. The arrow shows the place where the fold is located, which the tool will straighten.

If necessary, the unevenness is tapped from the outside with a hammer, and the tool for straightening the side members acts as support. Since a hydraulic cylinder with a pump is used to operate the tool, it is possible to remove deformation on the metal of a spar of any thickness without much effort. The most important thing is to correctly position the tool in the right place. To do this, you need to measure the location of the deformation and position the tool inside the spar to the desired length. There is a measuring scale on the body of the instrument.

p, blockquote 26,0,0,0,0 –>

Depending on the size of the spar, you can place wooden blocks in its cavity to position the tool as best as possible.

p, blockquote 27,0,0,0,0 –>

The Rail saver tool has been tested and approved by General Motors for repair of salvage vehicles at authorized service centers. The advantage of this tool is that it eliminates the need to cut segments in the spar to access the reverse side of the damage. There is no need to heat the metal, especially since modern high-strength steel is sensitive to heat and is significantly weakened and loses its properties.

p, blockquote 28,0,0,0,0 –>

The design of the Rail saver tool is quite simple and if it is thoroughly understood, you can make such a tool yourself.

p, blockquote 29,0,0,0,0 –>

On the left, at the top of the tool body, you can see a wedge on which another wedge acts, lifting it. The pipe with the wedge inside the housing is pushed by a hydraulic extension. The place with the wedge, which rises when exposed to hydraulics, must be installed opposite the fold, inside the spar. Special anvils/supports can be screwed to this part of the tool. p, blockquote 30,0,0,0,1 –>

Replace or pull out a damaged spar?

First of all, you need to decide whether to repair or replace the spar.

The decision to replace the spar should be made based on the degree of damage. With a smooth, not sharp bend, the spar can be repaired to a condition comparable to the whole.

On this car, the right side member (in the left photo) was restored, and the left one (in the right photo) was replaced.

Sometimes both front side members, during a side impact, simultaneously (since they are connected to each other by the bumper reinforcement and the lower beam) are displaced a considerable distance, but are not even damaged. In this case, it is enough to secure the car and pull out both side members using lateral action (hydraulic extension or winch).

The left spar, which cannot be restored, was replaced. The right spar has been straightened.

If there is a sharp bend (with an acute angle), or loss of its basic shape, it will be difficult to repair the spar to the condition it had before the accident.

Replacement can be either complete or partial. With a partial replacement, only the part that is not suitable for restoration is replaced. You can read more about replacing the spar in the article “Replacing the front spar”. The spar after repair should have the same rigidity as before the accident. If the strength of the spar is weaker or the spar becomes more rigid, this may affect the accident safety of the car. The airbags will deploy a little earlier or a little later, which is unacceptable.

Installation of the power element and adjustment

The front suspension beam of the VAZ 2107 is mounted in the reverse order of its removal and in compliance with the rules and safety measures. A qualified replacement of this power element involves the use of new fasteners. During the work, it is necessary to defecate the suspension units, especially the ball joints and silent blocks. Replacing faulty elements will avoid repeated repairs in the near future.

Repair and restoration work of this kind on a VAZ 2107 car is usually carried out by the owners themselves. This is usually done in order to save money, but precise adjustment of wheel alignment angles is quite difficult to perform without special equipment. To do this, contact a specialized service station. Replacing load-bearing body elements inevitably leads to changes in settings.

Installing a new beam on a VAZ 2107 car will eliminate the problem of yaw while driving. The car becomes more controllable and does not deviate from the chosen trajectory. The new beam increases the torsional rigidity of the body, which has a positive effect on its overall condition.