Replacement or welding
If a crack forms on the spar, a patch is usually placed in this place. The crack is first welded, covered with a piece of metal and spot welded on top for reliability. Typically, a semi-automatic machine with carbon dioxide is used for this.
During welding, spacers are placed on the spar to prevent it from being pulled to the side. Otherwise, the body may become deformed. If possible, it is always better to purchase a new part, which costs more than temporary repair work. But, with a limited budget, in some cases, you can save money.
For example, if the metal is rotten, then the side members (front and rear) can no longer be repaired. Even if you weld, the rot will continue around it. In addition, welding on soft metal can disrupt wheel alignment, tires will begin to wear out faster, transmission parts will begin to break, and body deformation may occur. How long will this repair last? At most, for a couple of weeks. Agree, replacement is much cheaper.
But if the crack is a consequence of a VAZ impact or collision, welding will be sufficient. But here you need to be very careful. Typically, a crack forms after an accident only if the body has also become deformed. And in this case, it will be necessary to first level it, and only then can you proceed to welding work.
Recommended literature on repair and maintenance of VAZ 2108 and VAZ 2109:
But is it necessary to contact a service station or can the replacement for 2108 and 2109 be done independently? Remember, you shouldn’t skimp here either. Do your own VAZ repairs only if you understand body work and know how to work with a welding machine. When you encounter it for the first time, you are unlikely to be able to perform high-quality repairs. And all of the above problems may follow.
Spar VAZ 2018/2109
Straightening and repairing the body of a VAZ 2109 can also only be done in a car repair shop. If you do not have the skills and special equipment, it will be difficult to cope with the task.
Replacing the spar Lada 2114 16
So, the geometry of the body has been almost completely restored, which means it’s time to start replacing the spar. The first thing that had to be done was to cut off the old spar, since there was little point in changing it entirely. It was decided to cut almost to the very root of the engine shield, which, in fact, was done.
Next, the remaining part of the spar was opened almost to the very threshold in order to remove the remains of the internal amplifier from it.
What took the most effort and time were the weld points, which I carefully drilled out with a half-killed drill for three days on the remains of the TV and burdock (especially on the number plate).
After all this torment, no less painstaking work awaited me. Since my new spar was assembled, I had to practically cut out the part I needed from it, which, as a result, took about 10 hours of labor, and even more with all the small adjustments. And finally, the treasured part of the new spar fell into place.
By the way, it was decided to weld the new spar overlapping with the remaining part of the old one.
In order to increase the penetration area, a bunch of holes were drilled throughout the spar, in the place where it overlapped with the old one. And the whole thing was thoroughly welded at maximum current with a semi-automatic welder. It should be noted that all this was first thoroughly coated with epoxy primer.
After a little adjustment of the freshly boiled spar, the cup was boiled using the same principle. The car began to take on a more familiar appearance)
I forgot to mention that to increase the rigidity of the engine compartment, almost all the seams under the hood were thoroughly welded.
Phew... That seems to be it))) A lot of work was done, and now that everything worked out, the spar is completely welded and adjusted, I can’t help but smile)))
Preparatory work
If you nevertheless decide to repair the spar on a VAZ yourself, first you will need to acquire the following tools for the job:
- welding machine;
- metal hacksaw or plasma cutter;
- grinding machine;
- metal spatula.
Since spar replacement and repair are carried out using the same technology, the set of tools will also be the same. First you will need to dismantle all electrical equipment, parts, engine components and chassis.
The next stage is heating the parts. But first you will need to get rid of the old coating, remove the sealant, sound insulation and primer. Now you can cut off the heated spar. Please note that if the wheel arch is also being replaced, there is no need to separate it first.
Please note that it is better to purchase spars complete with other parts. This way you will be sure that they will fit each other perfectly and will not spend so much time installing them.
Repair and replacement
If the conversation turns to repairing side members, then this usually refers to the front elements, since the rear side members are deformed much less often. To restore an element, a special stand is required. In addition, most of the car will need to be disassembled. However, even very experienced specialists can find it quite difficult to cope with this task . At the same time, replacing a spar element is also a long, labor-intensive and expensive procedure.
If the main part of this element has retained its normal condition, the deformed areas can be replaced using gas welding. But there is no need to have any illusions that this will restore the original qualities. The strength of the spar after these actions is significantly reduced, which means that the most important functions will be performed much worse. The spar with a ladder frame is much easier to change. But if the spar is very “deteriorated”, replacing it is pointless - in this case the whole body will have to be replaced.
Replacing the spar
If it is possible to repair or replace the spar, it is extremely important that the new element has the same overall dimensions as the damaged part, without exceeding them.
Important! Having set a goal to increase the strength of the spar element, the car owner risks significantly reducing its shock-absorbing properties, and with constant impacts, with this option, very serious problems arise.
What is a spar? How will the technical condition of a modern car change if problems arise with this spare part? Where is this element located? We will try to find complete answers to these questions to help beginners.
Installation process
Let us describe the process of replacing the front side member on VAZ 2108/2109 cars:
- Using a plasma cutter, in the absence of which you can use a hand hacksaw for metal, you need to cut off a new spar. Its size must be identical to the size of the damaged VAZ part.
- Once you have everything you need to make the repair, you can begin installation. The spar is connected to other parts, using guide templates, you can achieve precise installation.
- Now you can start welding parts 2108 / 2109, but first you need to check everything carefully. Only after this will it be possible to secure the part in several places. She welds the joint to the joint using arc welding.
- Fix the side member on the front panel of the VAZ. The method of spot or through welding is used here. Please note that if you replace the spar, the second option is more reliable.
- All you have to do is go over the welding areas with a grinding machine. It will be enough to tap the new contact points between the spar and the wheel arch with a hammer to secure the result. Finally, apply primer, soundproofing and sealant to 2108 or 2109.
Advice from professionals on operating a vehicle's side member
- Evolution of the frame.
“At first, hardwoods were used for the frame, and sometimes metal pipes. In the 1910s frames with an open profile began to be used on trucks.
If you know English terms, then it won’t be difficult to understand what a side member looks like on a car. It is often called staircase because it looks like a staircase. Elements located longitudinally are usually made from an open profile. Cross beams can be different in shape: K- and X-shaped, perpendicular. Frame pieces can be connected to each other using welding (in passenger cars), rivets (in trucks) or bolts (made to order).
Design Features
So, we figured out that the spar is a simple pipe with a rectangular cross-section. Depending on the engineers’ ideas, they:
- are located in front and behind the car.
- extend along the entire length of the housing structure.
Due to the fact that various forces are constantly pressed on the side members, they must withstand serious loads: this includes the weight of the engine, the weight of people in the car, as well as a host of other automotive parts. Also, this part is constantly subject to shock load, which is transmitted from car wheels while driving.
If you look at the photo of the inside of the car, you will see that the frame frame looks like a ladder frame, similar to the letter "P", including the rear one. Ladder frames are commonly used for SUVs, crossovers, and trucks. Passenger cars are most often equipped with a load-bearing body structure.
A brief excursion into history
The development of the spar and the creation of various body elements are closely interrelated. This is not surprising, because on the first vehicles only frames were used as support.
At first they were made of wood, but over time they were replaced by durable metal structures.
In the last century, in the 1920s, Auburn developed the first spar frame with an "X" cross member.
Over time, the parts were improved and became one with the bottom of the vehicle.
At the present stage, spars are an integral part of the machine design, regardless of the type of supporting system.
As already mentioned, side members occupy different positions in the car. Here, a lot depends on the characteristics of the body (truck, passenger car or truck).
Tasks of spars
The spar in a passenger car serves as a reinforcing part for the underbody, mudguards and luggage compartment floor. In large cars it acts as the main strength element of the body. In addition to its reinforcing task, the front spar acts as additional shock absorbers - it is located in the deformation absorption zone. After all, in order for the part of the car body where people are located to receive the least impact while driving, it is necessary to soften the impact - and this impact is taken by the front side member.
Body geometry of the VAZ 2114 and its meaning
Violations of the body geometry have certain consequences, which are reflected in the general condition of the car in the following ways:
- Deterioration in controllability and vibration when accelerating (manifests itself at 80 km/h and above).
- Increased tire wear.
- Noise from suspension elements.
- Increased fuel consumption, etc.
The VAZ 2114 has a hatchback body type, for which, however, as for other types (station wagon, sedan, etc.), violation of the geometry affects various parameters.
The symmetry of the wheels is broken, as can be judged by:
- reducing vehicle stability on the highway;
- uneven tire wear.
The diagonals of the body are broken, which is noticeable in the frames of the front/rear windows and in the doorways of the car.
Specific folds may form on the bottom or frame.
Problems related to spars
Under the influence of loads, the side members still deform over time, especially the front one (the load from the engine and its systems) suffers. Just like the front ones, the rear ones can crack and get tired. The word “get tired” implies the initiation of a crack, which over time grows throughout the entire part. Of course, an accident can also leave a significant mark.
What does operating a car with damaged side members entail? Some parameters of the car are violated: slightly, but the position of the doors, connectors of body parts, and the position of the power plant changes. The suspension geometry also suffers. Due to all these shortcomings, the car's handling is reduced. Therefore, if the body is damaged, you need to take the car for diagnostics - this decision will be correct.
If the spar completely bursts, then the entire body structure will be completely destroyed. It is because of this that after an accident, experts look at the degree of deformation of these elements. The position in which the side members are in the car also plays an important role.
Statistics: Approximately 90% of all work associated with this part occurs on the front spar. Such damage can be resolved quickly only with a frame spar - there it is simply replaced. As for the supporting body, sometimes the spars simply cannot be replaced. Let's say it was slightly dented in an accident: such damage can be corrected using a special carolin stand. For example, on the stand there are front left and rear side members - using a convenient location, mechanics measure all the parameters necessary to correct the problem.
It happens that the side members of a car are in such a state that the only option left is replacement. Changing parts entails a significant change in the properties of the entire body. After all, the shape, material and weight are calculated by the manufacturing company - in automotive centers you have to improvise. When the main parts of the spar are in good condition, a partial replacement is performed using arc gas welding.
When making repairs, you must insist that the new spar is no larger in size and weight than the old one. Some people prefer to harden a new one, but one must remember that such a decision may lead to a loss of shock-absorbing properties upon impact. Constant blows will lead to more serious consequences. Do not forget that in the event of an accident, the side members are checked first, and then everything else.
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Hello everyone, is it expensive to rebuild the rear right side member?
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by Adminrive · Published 02/24/2016
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by Adminrive · Published 06/16/2016
Recommendations for replacing the rear side members of the VAZ-2108-09
- When replacing a LP, many craftsmen cut off the old body element with a gas cutter, but it is better to drill out the part.
- When installing a new spar, it is very important to find the control points correctly and not to disturb the geometry of the body, otherwise the work will have to be redone and problems will arise.
- It is recommended to grab the spar at three or four points; before thoroughly welding the part, it is recommended to try on the rear beam - the fasteners must match the studs.
- Before installing the body element, the seat must be thoroughly cleaned of rust and well primed; if the metal is rusty, new plates must be welded.
- You cannot weld with a continuous seam, this will weaken the metal of the body.
Replacing rear side members is not an easy job, if you are not confident in your abilities, you should not take on it, it is better to use the services of professionals.
Greetings to everyone, in general, who remembers - a move is coming... So that's what I'm talking about... It was in April, I was driving one evening, and I began to notice that with every bump or junction on the road, there was a solid blow to the BODY from the rear right, I think what kind of garbage, I went out and looked several times a night, I didn’t find anything visually (after all, the car is low, the wheels are in the arches), a few days later I’m driving on business, it’s spring, the roads are all in a terrible state of course, puddles, potholes, well... In general, I’m driving through the territory of the production zone, and of course the car rocks quite well as it moves, the wheels hang completely above the ground from being skewed (there is such a road there). In general, I drove onto a normal road and the car began to steer to the left, and very strongly (for you to understand, you had to hold the steering wheel about 45 degrees to the right to drive straight). My wheel alignment was not perfect anyway, so I just sinned because it all went wrong during the next pit, although I didn’t fly anywhere at speed, and I looked at the front wheels, they both looked in different directions a little, in general I set I got the car at home and thought that tomorrow I would go to the wheel alignment and while I was falling asleep, I remembered that my front left strut was knocking, and it wouldn’t be bad to do it right away and then go to the wheel alignment so as not to pay 2 times (and it costs 1,500 rubles at a VAZ).