What is a limit switch and why is it needed in a car?

upd May 2022:
the standard limit switch turned out to be working, returned the factory circuit.
The reason was in the hood switch - it didn’t open when the hood was closed (I bent it back and everything worked normally). Now I installed a reed switch separately for the backlight instead of a mikrik on the trunk door lock.

I was surprised that the liftback trunk light only works in the dimensions mode. And I discovered that the trunk lock switch was faulty - it was constantly closed. Therefore, the standard alarm system did not work correctly, and in addition to this, the hood switch did not press, so I had to bend the bracket. The hood and trunk ends are on the same line, i.e. This is one signal control zone. I didn’t want to deal with the warranty, so I placed my microphone next to the lock’s shackle. The contact of the standard limit switch was disconnected in the block of the 5th door. I ran +12V power from the fuse box so that the light would always turn on when the trunk was opened. At the same time I installed LED strips on both sides.

The last photo shows a standard electric trunk lock. 2191-6305010-10

The Lada Granta Liftback car in the “Standard” configuration is equipped with only one limit switch at the driver’s door. The remaining three doors have built-in rubber plugs.

The “Norma” configuration has a similar arrangement, but the owner can additionally install limit switches on the Grant Liftback independently. To do this, first remove the decorative inserts on the thresholds. Only the “Lux” configuration provides a full set of functional limit switches for four doors.

The operating principle is as follows:

• when the driver's door is activated, the limit switch contacts open, the indicator on the dashboard lights up, and the interior lighting turns on;
• When the remaining three doors are activated, only the interior lamp lights up.

Review of Manufacturer Prices

*prices are current as of 10/09/18.

The opinions of the service station masters agreed on the choice of manufacturer - there is not much difference. When purchasing original products, the service life of the equipment exceeds 5 years.

Oxygen sensor to Priora converter

Installation in “makeshift” conditions and poor-quality manufacturing only shorten the period of use of the equipment. Often the owner is to blame for the breakdown, violating the vehicle maintenance regulations.

Reviews

Conclusion Limit switches on a car should always be in good working order. Provided proper maintenance and lubrication, the service life is at least two years. It is necessary to regularly analyze the condition of the limit switches in order to notice and prevent malfunctions in time. You should also adhere to the operating instructions.

Video - Lada Granta - door switches freeze? 3 solutions to the problem.

Article rating:

Installing the trunk limit switch on the Lada GrantaLink to main publication

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Installation of limit switches on Lada Granta

An activation sensor in all doors will provide additional comfort. To carry out the installation procedure, you will need special equipment and available materials: lubricant, rubber tips, screwdriver, rag.

Step-by-step algorithm of actions:

1. Remove the rubber tip.
2. Open the housing and remove the limit switch.
3. Remove the block with wires and disconnect.
4. Install a new sensor.
5. Reassemble.

After the basic steps, you need to check the functionality of the device. To connect the limit switch to the power circuit, you will need to connect two terminals: first “+” and then “-”.

Preparatory stage

• impact screwdriver;
• cross bits;
• pliers;
• plastic clips in case of damage to the standard ones;
• liquid for removing rust and corrosion;
• a new lock, the modification is chosen individually by the owner.

Procedure for independently replacing the driver's door lock on a Lada Granta Liftback

1. We install the car within the perimeter of the repair area and provide unobstructed access around the perimeter.
2. We take priority safety measures when carrying out work. We fix the rear row of wheels with wheel chocks and engage first gear to avoid arbitrary movement.
3. Open the driver's door, use an impact screwdriver to unscrew the two screws securing the shackle to the car body, and remove it from its seat. We install a new shackle with soundproofing material.
4. Let's start removing the constipation: unscrew the plastic float and remove the stem.
5. We unscrew the car door card, two screws, eight plastic clips around the perimeter.
6. We disconnect the block with wires from the double-glazed window control unit, speakers, and central locking.
7. From the outside, unscrew the three screws that secure the lock body to the door.
8. We remove the two rods, having first disconnected them with pliers.
9. We carry out preventive maintenance, clean the seat, remove old grease, and apply a thin layer of new one.
10. Let's start installing the new lock.
11. We assemble the structure in the reverse order, unless there are other breakdowns that require surgical intervention or elimination.

During the installation process, we pay attention to the integrity of the electrical wiring, insulating layer, terminals, and blocks with wires. If there are signs of wear, replace them with new ones.

Do not operate the machine with faulty electrical wiring.

Typical door lock malfunctions

• tightness of locking the door;
• increased noise when opening/closing;
• the central lock does not lock the door and does not respond to signals;
• unlocking is accompanied by a creaking, metallic grinding sound;
• While driving, the door vibrates, cracks are visible in the places of contact with the standard seal.

Common Causes of Premature Wear

• failure to comply with the deadlines for technical inspection, preventative maintenance, lubrication, and replacement of worn elements;
• third-party mechanical damage resulting in deformation of the door or lock;
• manufacturing defects at the factory;
• the lock has become loose due to loosening of the fastening;
• violation of the adjustment algorithm;
• human factor: systematically locking the door with force.

The defect is eliminated by replacing the constipation assembly.

Replacing the rear (passenger) door lock

The procedure for preventing locking of the front/rear passenger door is carried out by analogy. The design and method of fixation are typical.

Installing a trunk lock on Lada Granta Liftback

1. We place the car on a level platform and provide access to the trunk lid.
2. We take safety measures when carrying out work.
3. We unscrew two screws and remove part of the lower plastic trim of the trunk lid.
4. Unscrew the two screws securing the lock body to the trunk lid;
5. Using pliers, remove the rod from the button to the body.
6. We remove the constipation, carry out preventive maintenance, lubricate the threads and the rod end.
7. We install a new lock and assemble the structure in the reverse order.
8. We unscrew two screws, remove the standard shackle, install a new one with sound-insulating material.

Replacing the hood lock

1. Inside the car, under the dashboard, there is a hood release lever. We pull it towards ourselves.
2. Release the latch and lift the hood.
3. Using a TORX key set to “10”, unscrew the two screws holding the lock body to the body.
4. Using pliers, remove the cable eye from the seat.
5. We remove the lock, install a new one in its place, and assemble the structure again.
6. Lubricate the bow-clamp with silicone grease/solid oil.

Replacing the trunk lock of a Lada Granta

We remove the trunk lock and its drive for replacement. Opening the trunk lid...

...and, squeezing it out with a screwdriver...

...we disconnect the rod from the ball end of the lever of the cylinder mechanism of the lock.

Using a 10mm socket with an extension, unscrew the nut securing the base of the lock drive to the outer panel of the trunk lid. In order to unscrew the other nut, insert the key into the cylinder mechanism and, turning the lever...

... use the same tool to unscrew the nut located under the lever.

Remove the lock drive from the trunk lid.

...and remove the lock drive from the decorative trim. Install the lock drive in reverse order.

Using a 8mm socket, unscrew the two bolts securing the lock.

Pull the lock out of the hole in the inner panel of the trunk lid.

By pressing the latch, disconnect the wiring harness block from the electric locking drive and remove the lock along with the rod. To remove the drive rod...

...turn it towards the groove in the hole...

...and through it we remove the traction.

Motorized trunk lid lock.

Install the lock in the reverse order without tightening the bolts. Close and then open the trunk lid and, without moving the lock, tighten the bolts securing it

What is important to know about silent locks on the Lada Granta Liftback

Not all car owners are satisfied with the ease and noise level when closing the doors of their car. The defect is caused by excessive wear of parts and design flaws at the manufacturer level.

The principle of noise suppression is implemented by an installed noise absorber. In Lada Granta Liftback models, this is a rubber insert or a plastic polymer.

Silent locks are structurally composed of a pin and a shackle with a noise-absorbing insert. Some car owners practice replacing the arms, while leaving the standard locks unchanged. Already in this case, the noise level will be significantly lower, and locking the door will be easier.

At the same time, systematic use of the door lock leads to rapid wear of the polymer/rubber material. The owner has to come back for preventative maintenance again and again.

Finalization of the scheme

Work on modifying the door end elements can be delegated to service station specialists. In this case, the owner will be charged an installation fee. You can do everything yourself, then installing limit switches will require plumbing tools and a device for checking the electrical circuit:

1. Tester.
2. Soldering iron.
3. Phillips screwdriver.
4. The wire.
5. Solder POS-40.
6. Corrugated hose.
7. Insulating tape.
8. Limit switch.

The owner must decide on a further plan of action based on the features of the layout of his Lada Granta car. It can activate the button in the threshold or the door lock contacts.

Both options involve parallel connection of unused elements to the working terminals of the door on the driver's side. The switches for opening the doorway of a Lada car are powered using a two-wire circuit. To simplify the choice, we will consider both options.

Trunk limit for Lada Granta sedan

upd May 2022:
the standard limit switch turned out to be working, returned the factory circuit.
The reason was in the hood switch - it didn’t open when the hood was closed (I bent it back and everything worked normally). Now I installed a reed switch separately for the backlight instead of a mikrik on the trunk door lock.

I was surprised that the liftback trunk light only works in the dimensions mode. And I discovered that the trunk lock switch was faulty - it was constantly closed. Therefore, the standard alarm system did not work correctly, and in addition to this, the hood switch did not press, so I had to bend the bracket. The hood and trunk ends are on the same line, i.e. This is one signal control zone. I didn’t want to deal with the warranty, so I placed my microphone next to the lock’s shackle. The contact of the standard limit switch was disconnected in the block of the 5th door. I ran +12V power from the fuse box so that the light would always turn on when the trunk was opened. At the same time I installed LED strips on both sides.

The last photo shows a standard electric trunk lock. 2191-6305010-10

The Lada Granta Liftback car in the “Standard” configuration is equipped with only one limit switch at the driver’s door. The remaining three doors have built-in rubber plugs.

The “Norma” configuration has a similar arrangement, but the owner can additionally install limit switches on the Grant Liftback independently. To do this, first remove the decorative inserts on the thresholds. Only the “Lux” configuration provides a full set of functional limit switches for four doors.

The operating principle is as follows:

• when the driver's door is activated, the limit switch contacts open, the indicator on the dashboard lights up, and the interior lighting turns on;
• When the remaining three doors are activated, only the interior lamp lights up.

Reviews

Conclusion Limit switches on a car should always be in good working order. Provided proper maintenance and lubrication, the service life is at least two years. It is necessary to regularly analyze the condition of the limit switches in order to notice and prevent malfunctions in time. You should also adhere to the operating instructions.

Video - Lada Granta - door switches freeze? 3 solutions to the problem.

How to install an electric lock in the trunk lid of a Lada Granta

Electric trunk lock - improving the operation of the Lada Granta

The middle of 2011 is very important in the history of the domestic automotive industry. It was this period that Russian car enthusiasts remembered for the release of a new product from the Volga Automobile Plant - the Lada Granta sedan.

This car successfully fulfilled its purpose, namely replacing the classics of the Samara family.

Created on the basis of the Lada Kalina, Granta today enjoys enormous success among buyers not only in Russia, but also far beyond the borders of our state.

1 What Lada Granta owners missed

Today the car is produced in 3 main trim levels: “standard”, “norm” and “luxury”.

If with the second and third options everything is more or less clear (as they say, we will do everything for your money), then owners of cars with the first configuration were missing such an important detail as the electric drive of the trunk lid and hood lock. At first glance, it seems that such a trifle cannot significantly spoil the mood of a happy car owner

However, given the weather conditions in our country in winter, installing an electric lock for the hood or trunk lid on this car is literally asking

At first glance, it seems that such a trifle cannot significantly spoil the mood of the happy car owner. However, given the weather conditions in our country in winter, installing an electric lock for the hood or trunk lid on this car is literally asking for it.

Judge for yourself, because in 20-degree frosts, the problem of opening the trunk lid and hood becomes the main headache of the car owner: either the key cannot be inserted into the core of the lock, or it can only be pulled out with great effort. One way or another, a lock with an electric drive is needed, and it is very difficult to argue with this fact.

This is evidenced by the presence of wiring for the electric drive, as well as a special button on the key fob.

If you press and hold this button for two seconds, you can hear a click in the electrical package control unit.

2 Installing an electric lock on a Lada Granta

The entire process of installing an electric lock can be considered in the form of a simple algorithm. First, remove the inner trunk trim. To do this, disconnect the 7 pistons and 2 bolts holding the trunk closing handle.

Next we notice the lock mechanism. Insert the key into the lock and turn it in different directions. With this action it will be easier for us to understand the principle of operation of the lock in its various positions.

In the “closed” position, the pusher in the lock moves in vain, and in the “open” position, it presses on the rod, due to which the trunk or hood lids open.

After determining the principle of operation of the lid lock, it is easy to guess that if you connect the pusher to the activator, then the need to insert the key into the lock will disappear on its own.

The size of the first should correspond to the size of the protrusion on the pusher. We will insert the activator rod into the second hole. The first hole in the part should be in the center, the second - in the lower left edge.

In addition to the part with the holes, we will need a thin washer that can be inserted into the hole in the center.

Then we assemble the entire mechanism: our part is put on the plastic pusher. We put a new washer on top. In order to fasten this structure, you can use a retaining ring. We attach the activator to its place provided by the Lada Granta manufacturing plant. Using special rods that were included with the activator, we connect the latter with the part we turned.

https://tuningkod.ru

https://youtube.com/watch?v=tvmukbeNlnE

Open

Catalog numbers:
1118-3710199
— End switch assembly with cap.
11190-3710200
(analogue
80.3710
) - End switch.
11190-3710206-00
— Protective rubber cap.

Appearance

Instead of original switches, it is possible to install limit switches from other manufacturers, purchased from exist.ru - article number
104 035 756
(or analogues).

To connect the missing limit switches, you need to purchase a connector for the door switch 2115 (you can also use the connectors of the VAZ 2110 crankshaft position sensor). The second option is the reverse lock connector 1118 (AX-331)

Opening pin 2, closing pin 7 or vice versa? Or does it matter?

PS A short report on connecting limit switches in locks. Maybe it will be useful to someone. I won’t write about the front ones - everything is simple there, you don’t need to remove the locks, the latch opens easily with your hands, the connector can be removed almost by itself. That didn't work out for me with the rear ones. Firstly, I didn’t understand by touch where the latch was, and there was no photo. In short, I removed the lock, this is, in principle, not a troublesome matter. This is what the connector looks like in real life. Right rear door. The latch (or rather the bracket) is located on the outside of the lock, here it is in the open state. In principle, it’s impossible to open it with your finger inside the door, in my opinion, it’s too tight. So either some kind of device is needed, or the lock needs to be removed. On the left door it is mirrored. There was also a surprise waiting for me in the left door. The two wires that go to the speaker, and which are convenient to use to connect the end switch, are one color inside the door, and a different color when passing into the rack. At this moment I was a little dumbfounded when I didn’t find any wires in the harness in the threshold.)) In the door there are green-black and green-yellow, and in the threshold they are respectively white-blue and pink-blue (or blue, it’s not very clear).

Images

I was looking for limit switches, but I couldn’t find them, either without rubber bands, or there were no chips with wires. I took the limit switches from the classics.

I paralleled everything together and connected it to the driver's limit switch (red-green wire)

Good evening! A very interesting forum, I’ve been reading the topics for several weeks, thinking for a long time about the security system, etc., but we’ll talk about limit switches. I want to install Sigu Starline B9 myself, I haven’t done it yet. The car from the signature is a minimally equipped liftback (standard), very pleased. It has 1) no limit switches at all, there are plugs on all doors, 2) polite interior lighting is implemented when the driver's door is opened, 3) there is a central locking system. Do I understand correctly that the function of the limit switch is performed by the water door lock? Is it possible to connect the rest of the doors (locks) in a similar way (when opening the light came on, without additional limit switches? If not, is it better to take the “native” limit switches from Grant or from other manufacturers? (The metal buttons on the Accent have been working perfectly for 9 years) . Tell me the part number of the motor and the button for the trunk, please. And is it necessary to run additional wires for the solenoid into the trunk door? Did I understand correctly that there is no need to install a limit switch on the trunk, its function can be performed by the trunk lock? (wiring diagram for the electric lock) please share) And confirm that to turn on the luggage compartment lighting, you must pull an additional wire from the dashboard. Is there really no other way to connect? And there are plans to install a rear view camera with a multimedia system. Please advise how many additional wires and what cross-section extend it in advance, along with the limit switch, into the luggage compartment. And where exactly are the acoustics placed back? I saw potential seats in the front doors, but I can’t imagine where in the back (this is all about the question of the trunk limit switch wires. And if you disassemble the doors to install limit switches, is it possible to immediately (even crookedly) apply a layer of sound insulation.

Adjusting the trunk lid of Lada Granta

Tools:

• Ratchet wrench
• 10 mm head

Note:

Check the gaps between the body and the trunk lid; they should be the same throughout. If necessary, adjust the position of the trunk lid of the VAZ 2190.

1. Open the trunk.

2. Loosen the trunk lid and adjust the position of the lid.

Note:

Carefully close the trunk lid and, moving it, adjust its position in the opening. The gaps between the rear fenders and the trunk lid should be uniform and identical. Then finally tighten the trunk nuts.

3. If necessary, adjust (with the trunk lock locked) the height position of the lid relative to the rear wings by rotating the two rubber stops in the desired direction.

Source

Electric trunk lock Granta liftback installation

For work we will need:

1. Liftback)) 2. Opening button with connector or 2 female wires. 3. Electric drive (installed StarLine SL-2). 4. Cable (approximately 30 cm) and 2 clamps. 5. Electrical tape, wire cutters, wires, flat and Phillips screwdrivers, 8 and 7 wrench.

To install the drive, you need to get rid of the lock rod, probably many people know, it is firmly in place and will not allow the drive to open the lock until you insert the key into the lock, so we install a cable instead, this way you can open the trunk from the outside.

Disassembling the trunk door

We pull off the central plastic (2 pistons and on the edges of the latch)

Unscrew the 2 opened screws and pull them off (on two pistons)

A pair of screws have opened again, unscrew them

We will pull off the main casing from these corners, and before that we unscrew the 2 bolts in the front handles

The trim comes off very easily and this is what's underneath

And here is the thrust of the lock (from the cylinder to the lock itself), we will get rid of it.

The drive we will implement

We select a place for it, I found it here, we make notches for the holes

Pulling off the traction from the larva

We drill holes for the self-tapping screws, put the drive together with our rod inward and just attach it to our place to determine the length of the rod. We hooked up the drive, pulled it out to its full length and the door lock should be open. On the top of the lock there is a ring that you need to pull to open it (it will be clear later in the photo), we bring the rod to the ring and make a notch with wire cutters.

Now we take everything out, the electric drive and the lock itself, by unscrewing 2 bolts with a 8 key. We pull out the right corner of the lock and unhook the second end of the rod, then completely pull out the lock and remove the connector.

Here is the drive rod with a notch, at a distance of 2 cm from the notch we chop off the excess tail with a chisel

Along the notch we bend the rod into the letter “G” and insert it into the lock

Connecting the signaling to the central locking system

Now we get to the most interesting part. The contacts of the signaling relay must be connected to the gap in the brown wire (see diagram in Chapter 1). Moreover, this will be required regardless of the configuration. Oddly enough, we won’t need power cables at all. And the task now looks like this: you need a two-wire signal cable connected to the break in the brown cord.

The moral here is:

1. If you were able to remove the central lock control unit, connect the cable to the break in the wire connected to pin “7” of the control unit;
2. If you have removed the door trim, then pull the cable out of it (from the point where the brown cord breaks).

It is clear that the second side of the cable must reach the relay connector of your alarm.

Option for the “Lux” package

So, this means that there is a button on the armrest in the cabin that allows you to lock the locks. From one of the contacts of the button, to which a “plus” is applied when pressed, you need to stretch the cord to the signaling unit. Nothing else is required, and you can connect the alarm according to the following scheme:

According to reviews, this option is suitable if we are talking specifically about the “luxury” configuration. By the way, the resistor can be connected to the gap in the wire designated “blue” (the common contacts are then connected with a jumper).

It must be remembered that when working with any electrical equipment, you must first remove the negative terminal from the battery.

Each cord that is re-laid must not touch metal surfaces. Otherwise, in places of contact, the wire is protected with a tube that can withstand temperatures of 250 degrees. This is how you can protect yourself from unforeseen consequences.

Troubleshooting

Drivers may encounter various types of malfunctions. Even though the sensor is protected, it is not as reliable as the manufacturers claim. In addition to silicone lubricant, other measures can be used:

1. Install the spring under the rubber cover. If this element is elastic, it will protect the mechanism even at very low temperatures.
2. Remove the protective caps for the winter, but there is a danger that the element will quickly become clogged with dust and dirt.
3. Treat with protective liquid.

Often drivers replace their original limit switch with a part from another manufacturer or install a boot. In this case, the body of the new element is inserted into the standard connector and secured with a self-tapping screw.

How to extend the service life of the door activation sensor using the traditional method

Craftsmen have come up with many ways to resuscitate a rubber cap, prevent it from deforming and freezing. We present the most effective methods:

• insert for the rubber tip of the spring. The diameter of the coil is “6”, the length is 1.0 cm. When the door is opened, the spring pushes the tip to its original position, the contacts close, the interior lighting is activated;
• replacement of standard caps with parts from the second generation Opel Astra. The dimensions are identical, the only difference is in the shape, it is more convex, which contributes to the sensor’s quick response to opening/closing the door;
• systematic application of silicone lubricant to a rubber product to restore elasticity.

What are the characteristics of the trunk?

What is the actual volume in liters? If you fold the rear row of seats, the Granta's trunk volume will reach 770 liters, and in the standard position of the rear passenger row, the trunk volume will be 440 liters. This model is the first ever liftback among the entire AvtoVAZ family. In terms of luggage compartment capacity in its standard state, the Granta managed to outstrip such a popular European hatchback as the Volkswagen Golf. However, with the rear row seats folded, the Golf takes the lead thanks to the trunk volume of 1200 liters, which turned out to be unattainable for the Lada designers. After all, the primary goal was to maintain a single wheelbase and platform similar to a sedan.

So, what is the real opinion of Granta owners about the capacity and ease of use of the luggage section, because its volume in liters is quite impressive. The Internet is replete with an incredible variety of photographs posted by the owners. Sometimes the Lada Granta liftback can plunge you into amazement - how much useful luggage its luggage compartment is ready to accommodate. However, in reality, not everything becomes as rosy with the amount of space in the trunk as it is positioned in advertising.

The rear seats have the only ability to fold completely when the front seats are moved close to the instrument panel. The inconvenience is that the rear headrest requires preliminary dismantling before folding. The top shelf in the luggage compartment can be removed without any extra effort, which is very convenient when transporting large items. Due to this action, space will not be added, but the luggage will not rest against anything. Niches on the right and left sides are suitable for storing medium-sized bags or a set of essential tools in case of an unexpected breakdown.

Above these technological recesses there are hangers designed for bags, which eliminates the need to clutter the rear seats with them. There is a light above the left niche, but it turns on when the low beam of the head optics is activated. An excellent solution for cloudy weather or dark periods of the day, however, the inconvenience is that you may forget to turn on the headlights beforehand.

Under the luggage mat you can find a full-fledged spare wheel, to which the manufacturer has added traditional attributes: a jack and a wheel wrench. There is enough space in the niche to accommodate a spare wheel with a large radius (if you wish to install 16-inch wheels). There is still room for the tool. This is easy to verify, you just have to look at the photo.

The wipers do not adhere well to the glass

The luggage compartment mat in the LADA Granta liftback made of rubber has not become popular among owners. The quality of the material is a little worse than expected, and it will not be possible to stick a traditional “motorist’s bag” to its surface with Velcro. The option of a rug with a pile covering will not be practical, since it is subject to the risk of contamination from spills of various liquids or dirt.

The rubber cover in the trunk can be easily placed on top of the standard one. If the niche for the spare wheel will be used for other luggage, then you should take into account the fact that one mat will rest against the niches on the sides of the trunk. If you place any object above the spare wheel niche, it will fall into its recess.

Methods for solving problems with door limit switches

We will look at a number of fairly simple ways to solve the problems described above, which every car owner can easily put into practice. Thus, if problems arise caused by the operation of limit switches in the winter months, you can resort to the following methods:

• Remove the anthers from the limit switches. Remember that these rubber caps serve a protective function, and therefore when removing them you will have to be very careful about cleanliness. It is recommended to remove the anthers only for a short time, in frosty weather outside.
• Replace the “original” caps with analogues. Anthers from other end caps, for example, Toprun, which are practically a copy of the original Granta caps, are suitable as analogues. However, these anthers are made from materials that do not lose their elasticity at sub-zero temperatures, which is their undoubted advantage. You do not need to change the end switches themselves, only the caps should be replaced.
• Install a spring under the switch boot. For this purpose, springs with a length of approximately 18-20 mm and a diameter of 12-13 mm with a wire thickness of 1 mm can be used. They need to be installed on the limit switch rod, directly under the anthers. A good spring will not allow the cap to be constantly in a compressed state and will not let you down even at a temperature of -40C.
• Lubricate all rubber surfaces with silicone, this will help in relatively mild frosts (about -10C or less).
• Treat the surface with a water-repellent liquid. This measure works in a fairly wide temperature range (up to -50C), but is purely temporary.

Lada Granta › Logbook › Adjusting the trunk opening force

Good day everyone. Can anyone tell me if on a Grant sedan it is possible to somehow regulate the force of the torsion bars of the trunk opening lid?

You don’t have to write advice like installing struts or springs. After looking at the mechanism, it seemed to me that without additional gadgets you can change the force, I just can’t figure out how.

According to the principle, there is the same mechanism as on the classics, maybe someone regulated it or there is a link to the material, otherwise I don’t come across something, but what I need is on the Internet

For clarification and in case I called something wrong, here is the mechanism for raising the trunk lid and theoretically it is adjustable. question - how?

How to open the trunk on a station wagon, sedan and convertible

Let's start with the simplest thing - these are station wagons. A station wagon is a car body that has a closed design. The luggage compartment in such a car has a common roof with the car interior. This suggests that you can get into the trunk of a car through the interior of the car. To do this, you need to remove the top shelf and the trunk will be within a meter of the driver’s hands.

If dismantling the rear parcel shelf is not provided for by the design of the car, then there are probably locks that hold the back of the rear seat. For example, on a VAZ 2121 Niva, you can unfasten special latches and the back of the rear seat will move forward. This way you can take the keys from the trunk without opening it.

This method becomes relevant for the latest model Niva, since the first SUVs of this series had a special button on the trunk lid designed to open the trunk without the participation of special levers in the cabin or the car key.

In the case of sedans, everything is much more complicated. This is especially true for older cars that do not have a special trunk release button. In the classic VAZ family of the fifth and seventh models, as well as the FIAT 124, opening the trunk is possible without using a key at all. The fact is that the lock of such covers is too simple and can be opened with a regular flat-head screwdriver. In this connection, it is recommended to replace the trunk lock with a more thoughtful one in the future. On other models, it is impossible to lock the trunk without a key.

A separate story is the Soviet car IZH 412 Moskvich. His trunk had neither a button nor a special lock. The trunk was locked using a special metal cable located outside under the trunk lid. To open the trunk, simply pull this cable to the right.

Despite the simplicity of the design, there were situations when this cable was bitten off when the trunk was closed incorrectly. In this case, access was lost not only to the trunk, but also to the car’s gas tank, which created additional difficulties when refueling the car. However, you can also open such a trunk. The whole process is complicated by the fact that between the seat and the trunk there are stiffening ribs that block access to the latter. To gain such access, you need to remove the fastenings of the rear shelf under the glass and remove it. Next, you need to reach with your hands the remains of the cable or locking mechanism and open the trunk manually from the inside.

Opening the trunk of a convertible is even more difficult. This is due to the fact that its trunk does not have any connection with the car’s interior and is made separately. To open it, you need to know the lock structure well enough. But in order not to spoil it, it is still recommended to call a specialist.

The trunk of modern cars can be opened without a key from inside the car using a special button for the electric trunk lock.

Preparatory stage

• impact screwdriver;
• cross bits;
• pliers;
• plastic clips in case of damage to the standard ones;
• liquid for removing rust and corrosion;
• a new lock, the modification is chosen individually by the owner.

Procedure for independently replacing the driver's door lock on a Lada Granta Liftback

1. We install the car within the perimeter of the repair area and provide unobstructed access around the perimeter.
2. We take priority safety measures when carrying out work. We fix the rear row of wheels with wheel chocks and engage first gear to avoid arbitrary movement.
3. Open the driver's door, use an impact screwdriver to unscrew the two screws securing the shackle to the car body, and remove it from its seat. We install a new shackle with soundproofing material.
4. Let's start removing the constipation: unscrew the plastic float and remove the stem.
5. We unscrew the car door card, two screws, eight plastic clips around the perimeter.
6. We disconnect the block with wires from the double-glazed window control unit, speakers, and central locking.
7. From the outside, unscrew the three screws that secure the lock body to the door.
8. We remove the two rods, having first disconnected them with pliers.
9. We carry out preventive maintenance, clean the seat, remove old grease, and apply a thin layer of new one.
10. Let's start installing the new lock.
11. We assemble the structure in the reverse order, unless there are other breakdowns that require surgical intervention or elimination.

During the installation process, we pay attention to the integrity of the electrical wiring, insulating layer, terminals, and blocks with wires. If there are signs of wear, replace them with new ones.

Do not operate the machine with faulty electrical wiring.

Typical door lock malfunctions

• tightness of locking the door;
• increased noise when opening/closing;
• the central lock does not lock the door and does not respond to signals;
• unlocking is accompanied by a creaking, metallic grinding sound;
• While driving, the door vibrates, cracks are visible in the places of contact with the standard seal.

Common Causes of Premature Wear

• failure to comply with the deadlines for technical inspection, preventative maintenance, lubrication, and replacement of worn elements;
• third-party mechanical damage resulting in deformation of the door or lock;
• manufacturing defects at the factory;
• the lock has become loose due to loosening of the fastening;
• violation of the adjustment algorithm;
• human factor: systematically locking the door with force.

The defect is eliminated by replacing the constipation assembly.

Replacing the rear (passenger) door lock

The procedure for preventing locking of the front/rear passenger door is carried out by analogy. The design and method of fixation are typical.

Installing a trunk lock on Lada Granta Liftback

1. We place the car on a level platform and provide access to the trunk lid.
2. We take safety measures when carrying out work.
3. We unscrew two screws and remove part of the lower plastic trim of the trunk lid.
4. Unscrew the two screws securing the lock body to the trunk lid;
5. Using pliers, remove the rod from the button to the body.
6. We remove the constipation, carry out preventive maintenance, lubricate the threads and the rod end.
7. We install a new lock and assemble the structure in the reverse order.
8. We unscrew two screws, remove the standard shackle, install a new one with sound-insulating material.

Replacing the hood lock

1. Inside the car, under the dashboard, there is a hood release lever. We pull it towards ourselves.
2. Release the latch and lift the hood.
3. Using a TORX key set to “10”, unscrew the two screws holding the lock body to the body.
4. Using pliers, remove the cable eye from the seat.
5. We remove the lock, install a new one in its place, and assemble the structure again.
6. Lubricate the bow-clamp with silicone grease/solid oil.

Where is the trunk limit switch of the Lada Granta Liftback

The trunk lid activation sensor is located on the left side, closer to the lamp. However, it is installed only in the “Lux” configuration. Rubber plugs are inserted into “Standard” and “Norma”.

In order to prevent sudden activation of the central locking and door locking, owners optionally install sensors. Considering the simplicity of the procedure, you can do this either independently or by contacting a service station for help from specialists. After installing the trunk end switch into the seat, we lay and connect the electrical wiring. “Plus” is powered from the side lights of the lamp, “minus” can be from the body or on the block with wires. Black with a white stripe is “minus”, red is “plus”.

In the Luxury package, the sensor is built into the trunk lid lock by default. When the lid is closed, the sensor automatically turns off the power from the light.

How to extend the service life of the door activation sensor using the traditional method

Craftsmen have come up with many ways to resuscitate a rubber cap, prevent it from deforming and freezing. We present the most effective methods:

• insert for the rubber tip of the spring. The diameter of the coil is “6”, the length is 1.0 cm. When the door is opened, the spring pushes the tip to its original position, the contacts close, the interior lighting is activated;
• replacement of standard caps with parts from the second generation Opel Astra. The dimensions are identical, the only difference is in the shape, it is more convex, which contributes to the sensor’s quick response to opening/closing the door;
• systematic application of silicone lubricant to a rubber product to restore elasticity.

Review of Manufacturer Prices

*prices are current as of 10/08/18.