Rear shock absorber strut cup VAZ 2110

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Attached images

Repair of the front glass of a VAZ 2110

I would like to cut off the front glass, rotten place

Guys, I certainly understand that the task is to melt this bucket, but still a splash guard with a glass costs a penny, a maximum of two mowers. You could think about others a little. Nothing personal.

2 thousand is not a penny for the owner

Well, why not? So far it seems... And then let the client think for himself, or let the new owner think)))

@garage tv chistopol. And there was no thought to criticize your work, as they say “in war, all means are fair”

The car drives, nothing has fallen off

For 10 glasses this is an eternal problem

no, that's fucked up. Even for basins. It’s clear that there is no money, but you can’t do the same. Moreover, in appearance, one cannot say that he is somehow shaggy, he looks quite decent. Is it really impossible to find money for a good repair, because such repairs are not done once a year or even every 3 years; with normal anticorrosive protection, the car takes a very long time every year. It’s just a pity for the car (. The rear glasses are simply rotten (due to the fact that the previous owner put a dick on it and covered everything with lockers, although it looks gorgeous). Therefore, the rear lockers are evil, and if they are on self-tapping screws, then they are double evil)

Cooked well. Seam processing is a complete mess. Welding seams must be primed after cleaning and then oiled. Mastic will have no effect on bare metal.

We repair a torn glass of a VAZ 2110 car. One of the common problems of cars of the 10 family is that over time the glass corrodes and any hole can cause it to come off the body, requiring immediate repair. In principle, the work is not difficult, but the engine had to be removed for direct access, and already during the main work, other problems related to the rotten body were discovered.

Why do they put spacers on the rear struts?

It so happens that a loaded “ten” touches the fender liners with the reverse wheels. To increase ground clearance and solve this problem, motorists install so-called. spacers for the rear struts of the VAZ 2110, which are placed between the lower plane of the shock absorbers and the brackets of the rear yoke (beam).

With an increase in rear clearance, the following vehicle characteristics change:

• position of the RD (pressure regulator) of the rear brake circuit; • vector of the direction of light of the front optics; • castor (angular distance of the axial inclination of the rotation of the front wheelset in the longitudinal section).

If the first two positions are subject to independent adjustment, then the angular distance must be installed at a specialized enterprise.

VAZ cars: repair, maintenance, tuning

The rear suspension on the VAZ 2110 has never been silent. Actually, the same as on the VAZ 2108-2109, since on all front-wheel drive VAZs the rear suspension design is absolutely identical. With the exception of those cars that are built on the Renault platform, but that's a different story. The knocking of the rear pillars on the VAZ 2110 haunts many owners. What to do about it and how to deal with it, what are the reasons, we figured it out today.

VAZ 2110 problem with glass

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Gender: Registered: 03.23.2005 Messages: 2605 From: Chelyabinsk

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what kind of glass is this? _________________ To be continued…

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Gender: Registered: 08/11/2005 Messages: 41557 From: US State Department

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yah! the wheel would have gone to the side, it's probably not about this glass _________________ To be continued...

Withdrawal procedure

1. Remove the telescopic stand.

2. Clamp the stand in a vice. We compress the spring with special ties. Unscrew the shock absorber rod nut, holding the rod from turning.

3. Remove the upper support of the rack.

4. Remove the upper spring bowl.

6. Remove the protective casing with the compression stroke buffer.

7. Inspect the rack. If deformation, cracks or damage are visible on the strut body, swing arm, bracket or lower spring cup, the strut must be replaced. Welding work on the rack can permanently damage it.

8. Place the strut vertically and swing the shock absorber rod several times. At the same time, make sure that the rod moves smoothly. If it moves with dips, jamming and knocking, then the rack needs to be replaced. The strut should also be replaced if it shows signs of fluid leakage or if the threads at the top of the stem are damaged.

9. Shock absorbers with a non-separable body (cartridge) can also be installed on the machine. To replace the cartridge, knock down the compression buffer support, unscrew the nut of the strut housing, remove the cartridge and put a new one in its place. When replacing a conventional hydraulic shock absorber with a cartridge, you need to remove the rod with the working cylinder from the housing and drain the liquid. Install the cartridge into the housing according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Why are the rear struts of the VAZ 2110 knocking?

The resource of the rear suspension of the VAZ 2110 should theoretically be enormous. From a mechanical point of view, there is simply nothing to break there. And yet, as practice shows, the average service life of the struts is about 30,000 km , and the springs sag after 70-80 thousand . The thrust cup of the rear shock absorber, welded into the power beam of the body, also does not behave in the best way.

As a rule, any knocking noise from the rear suspension can be associated with very specific reasons:

1. A knock at the bottom of the suspension will indicate that the silent blocks of the beam or the silent blocks (bushings) of the shock absorber strut have worn out.
2. The cause of the knocking may be wear of the beam mounting bracket , but the knocking will appear only when the wear clearly affects the handling of the car.
3. Knocking and noise in bearings .
4. There is a knock at the top of the suspension, or rather, a knock of the rear suspension struts.

It is the racks that cause the most complaints from owners. If the lower mount more or less withstands the life of the shock absorbers themselves, then the upper support point of the strut often makes itself felt with a ringing knock when driving over bumps and loading the rear of the car.

Replacement

If a problem is discovered and it becomes necessary to change the rear struts, then you need to carry out a number of operations. To begin, you will need to arm yourself with the following tools:

Dismantling

• we dismantle the luggage compartment in the area of ​​the rear arches;
• Next, remove the rear belts, as well as the brackets that secure the rear seat;
• take a special wrench designed for struts and unscrew the rear strut rod nut;

Special key for disassembling the rack

• Now you will need to lift the car, or rather its rear part;
• Next, unscrew the nuts securing the lower part of the rack;
• remove the stand from its place.

Analogs of front shock absorbers Lada 2110-12

Very often, when replacing a shock absorber strut or liner, preference is given to foreign manufacturers, since their products are relatively cheap and have a high level of quality. The most popular are the racks presented in the table.

[thank you very much super. there is no rot. Damn, I didn’t think of that myself. I will do it and post a photo report.

I don’t know how it is in your city, but here they very strictly won’t deregister the car and won’t put it on alloy wheels; if a sports steering wheel is installed, they’ll also force you to change it to the original one; they’ll definitely pay attention to the muffler and toner. The slightest scratch on the cup and you’re out. expert.

We are finalizing and selecting supports and cushions for the rear pillar

The stock rear strut on a VAZ 2110 is mounted in the upper part through a disc washer 3 and two strut rod pads 6 in the figure below. So, often due to the fact that the dimensions and material of the rod cushions (donuts, as garage tuning experts call them) do not correspond to the original or wear of the shock absorber, a knocking, creaking and grinding sound appears in the cup, which cannot be removed by other means.

Theoretically, they are the same, both upper and lower, catalog number 2110-2915450 . 2101-2905450 were installed on exactly the same pillars of the VAZ 2109-2108 . They are slightly different in configuration, but may well be interchangeable.

As a rule, the upper cushion wears out, so third-party manufacturers, like СС20, have developed their own methods of combating knocking - they suggest installing two instead of three parts (two cushions + bushing). The bushing with the lower cushion is made integral, and the upper cushion is made separately.

Bushing and cushions from SS 20

At the same time, the СС20 bushing is rubberized so that the upper cushion does not wear out so much. Most of the car enthusiasts who installed such a kit were satisfied, the knocking disappeared, and the handling improved due to the fact that the rod play was eliminated.

• In the case when we feel sorry for the money to buy a combined SS20 pillow, we can do it even simpler - cut off half of the stock pillow before installing the disk washer. This allows the cut cushion to constantly compress the rod regardless of wear. True, sometimes you have to tighten the shock absorber rod nut.

  In this way, you can at least partially overcome the knocking of the rear shock absorber strut on the VAZ 2110.

  Pay for goods by credit card, using QIWI, Yandex.Money or WebMoney and save on your purchase from 4%, avoiding postal and bank commissions

  This product was chosen by 12 customers

  The original rear shock absorber cup, which is supplied to the AvtoVAZ assembly line. Designed to replace a failed standard one.

  Weight, kg: 0.1 Dimensions, cm: 8 x 8 x 3 Volume, m3: 0.00019

Messages 7

1 Topic by alex3004 2015-04-22 18:55:45

• alex3004
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• From: Rostov region
• Registration: 2013-10-11
• Messages: 62 Thanks : 13
• Car: VAZ 2110103

Topic: How to replace a body part with a VIN number?

please tell me, has anyone encountered such a problem? it is necessary to cut off the front right side with the numbered glass and weld a new one without a number! but not a single master undertakes to do this without some kind of piece of paper authorizing dismantling and welding work in this place. If anyone knows who exactly I should contact, please tell me. Thank you very much in advance! p.s. They told me to contact the MREO, but they all point their fingers at each other and say that this is the first time they have encountered something like this.

2 Reply from Anton 2015-04-23 06:04:51

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Re: How to replace a body part with a VIN number?

3 Reply from iliaBkmz 2015-04-24 08:00:15

• iliaBkmz
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• Registration: 2012-11-12
• Messages: 2,035 Thanks : 583
• Car: outlander and 2104

Re: How to replace a body part with a VIN number?

To be honest, all this overcooking of the numbered glass is a big headache. The one who will digest (only official service) must have permission to perform this type of work, with a copy of which then you need to go to the traffic police. But they will most likely still send you for examination. In general, there are a lot of headaches with such machines - I’m telling you from personal experience! Usually (in practice, such cars are used by those who have friends in the traffic police).

4 Reply from alex3004 2015-04-26 00:02:43

• alex3004
• Participant
• Inactive

• From: Rostov region
• Registration: 2013-10-11
• Messages: 62 Thanks : 13
• Car: VAZ 2110103

Re: How to replace a body part with a VIN number?

Thank you for your responses to this topic! I also found three generations of acquaintances in this field, but what is even more important - guys, it’s better to look for more than a dozen handicraftsmen, someone will take it! That's how I found the bodybuilder. He said, “Take a lot of money, but I’ll save the glass.” "The man answered for his words! so forum members, don’t despair, there are people who are afraid of this.

5 Reply from sergo9531 2015-04-26 13:04:29

• sergo9531
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• Auto: 21114

Need advice on repairing a number plate.

Comrades, this kind of trouble has slowly arisen.
While it's warm, I think I'll cook everything. Who was involved in such repairs, what is the best way to cook on both sides? What metal will the 1mm standard patch be made from? Or should I take it thicker? Is it necessary to remove the engine or can it be welded like this? There really isn’t enough space there!(((

Comments 40

Factory seams were not touched

Hello. How did you resolve the issue with the traffic police? I was also brewing a glass and decided to sell the car, so I’m wondering if the buyer will return the car back after it is sent for examination

They sent us for examination ourselves. DPS stop They did it for free and gave me a certificate that everything was fine))) The paint was only removed with a wash...

thanks for the info

The license plate on my car has already been tacked on by the previous owner. As if without certificates and other things. There isn't even a service order. The factory seams were not touched; no special marks were even made during registration.

As a last resort, the number is duplicated in the back of the matryakh.

And so, regarding the welding, there is a patch of 2 mm metal, welded on both sides. When working, you will have to remove the stand. There is no need to remove the motor, you can crawl up, but the motor should be covered.

A familiar picture. On my Ten, the glass is also rotten (the one on which the body number is stamped and the engine number is stamped). In a good way, it’s better to overcook the glass. But then you need to formalize this matter somehow - because of the stamped number. Therefore we will make a patch. But we find out from a friend whether we need to report to the cops that the glass has been patched.

As I was told at the MREO, any technical work, in principle, should be registered as a change in the design of the car. I’ve already changed my mind about going to them, I’ll do it carefully, I don’t need to cook a glass, but a splash pad. I won’t touch all the factory seams on the glass, everything is fine there. Well, if they screw it up later during re-registration, I’ll do an examination

Source

Faceted Glass Day in Russia

The history of a product is stored not only in historical facts, but also in the memories of people whose everyday life is integrally connected with it. They drank sparkling water from it right on the street, tea on trains, for which they put a cup holder, and drank alcoholic beverages. The Soviet cut glass has become a housewife's assistant in the kitchen. It helped to accurately measure the number of grams of a bulk product or milliliters of liquid.

Therefore, it is not surprising that later a date was set when the holiday of the cut glass could be officially celebrated. This is one day a year - September 11, on which the first glass came out of the Gus-Khrustalny glass factory assembly line. Although there is no documentary evidence of this fact. Russia timed this day to coincide with the All-Russian Day of Sobriety. Which can become the countdown date for giving up a bad habit for everyone.

Is the numbered glass brewing?

Comments 38

My mother-in-law faced this problem. from the beginning you go to an expert, he records the fact of corrosion or cracks, then you cook, digest and again go to the expert, like this, and if you do it yourself, then before the first traffic police check and then prove that it is not stolen

Yes, I understand. I’ll contact the experts tomorrow, let’s see what they tell me...

The photo shows that it was not the glass itself that was cracked, but the upper reinforcement of the front right mudguard. All this can be cured after removing the wing, you can also boil it from below, then putty, apply seam sealant at the joint with the glass, then paint.

Okay, thank you all so much for your answers! We will decide what and how.

I came across this situation. I had a similar situation on the 99th. The glass had rotted and there was simply no need to cook it. I set it as numberless. For this operation, I chose the official service, which has been in our city since Soviet times. Only they have all the permits, licenses, and documents. And still, when I went to fill out the documents, everything dragged on for 4 months. They told me that I first had to get permission from the head of the MREO (that's nonsense), then they were checked three times by experts and checked against all sorts of databases. At the same time, there were ALL the documents and photographs, plus an old glass in stock... In this country... I won’t tell you, you know everything yourself.

Damn, what passions are written here about examination, theft, etc. The seam is short, many cars are sick, the main thing is to leave the number itself, it’s covered up even if you can’t see it, the examination is a scam of money (1000 rubles). a friend with a completely digested glass spent 1000 rubles (but under no circumstances should you beat him, this is already a crime)

any traffic cop, when you first open the hood, seeing your boiled glass, will confiscate the car, and then try to prove that you are not a gladiolus! your car must undergo an examination, where they will write a paper for you, saying that the license plate part of the body was damaged anyway, and then they will tell you what to do: cook this one, or take a repair one and get a new number! the process is long and unpleasant, that’s why people just cook it themselves and drive until the first accident, where the car is sent for examination and a weld is found there, and after that, of course, the car is bye-bye! or they may write it off as a thief, but God forbid you are a thief!

This is what I was waiting for. And I was even a little surprised by the previous answers. And as far as I know, the examination even happens several times ((for each money and a lot of time. I got it in general