Why does the Kalina gearbox lever rattle and how to fix this problem

Probably many Viburnum owners have noticed how the gearshift lever hums or rattles when reaching 3000 rpm or when braking the engine.

I also had this problem and it appeared almost immediately after buying the car. Sometimes the sound was louder, sometimes quieter. Lately it has completely bothered me and I decided to figure out the problem!

In fact, there are many methods, some successful and some not so successful) Some people roll electrical tape (I did this myself), some people use plenty of lubrication, I’ve even seen some people use a spring!

To eliminate rattling, you need to remove the gearbox cover - just pry it up:

I decided to update an existing article that was written more than a year ago. In that case, the rattling of the gearshift lever was not particularly strong and was eliminated quite simply, which will be written about at the very bottom.

In the meantime, I want to give a short instruction on how to eliminate lever rattling on Kalina. For this I needed the following accessories:

• Open-end wrench or socket wrench 13
• Pliers
• Electric sharpener

How to eliminate rattling gearshift knob on Kalina-1

The unpleasant loud rattling of the gearshift knob in the Kalina-1, which occurs when the engine brakes or when accelerating from 3000 rpm, is familiar to many owners of this car model. The sound is similar to a metallic clanging, buzzing, humming - there are several options, but the reason is the same in all cases: a malfunction of the gear selection mechanism.

The unpleasant loud rattling of the gearshift knob in the Kalina-1, which occurs when the engine brakes or when accelerating from 3000 rpm, is familiar to many owners of this car model. The sound is similar to a metallic clanging, buzzing, humming - there are several options, but the reason is the same in all cases: a malfunction of the gear selection mechanism.

Symptoms of malfunction, diagnostics, solutions

The device of the gear selection mechanism on a cable and rocker gearbox

The Lada Kalina is equipped with a manual transmission of rocker or cable type. The first type is installed on Kalina-1 and other models produced before 2013. The second is on Kalina-2, Priora FL and Granta.

The rocker is the rigid traction of the gears - hence the name “rocker” gearbox. But more often this name refers to the drive of the shift mechanism, which is located between the gearbox housing and the lever. Depending on the car model, the drive design may be different. It includes more than 20 parts, but the rattling of the gearshift knob on the Kalina-1 occurs due to the bushing of the lever axis or the plastic bushing of the lever hinge (spacer). The cause of rattling can also be a broken support.

Why does the Kalina gearbox rattle?

Since 2013, Lada cars have been equipped with a cable manual transmission. Instead of a rigid rod, two Bowden cables in a flexible plastic sheath were installed. During the modernization, other changes were made - the gear selection mechanism was moved to the upper part of the box, and a selector plate was installed. Due to the changes, vibration on the handle has been reduced, so rattling of the gearbox lever on Kalina-2, Grant or Priora is less common.

SWITCH MECHANISM

Lada Kalina wagon Luta Logbook Replacing the ignition switch. Fiddling with the keys The new mechanism is a separate module. It can be installed last and removed if necessary without disassembling the box. This is technologically advanced not only in production, but also in repair. Already at the concept stage developed by the VAZ team, a selector grill appeared in it, clearly repeating the gear shift pattern and setting the lever stroke when selecting gears. The mechanism includes a lock against accidental reverse gear, which is only accessible from neutral.

The characteristics of the mechanism were selected on the original simulation stand. The tester sits down on the seat and begins to go through the gears, while the automatic system imitates the shift pattern, forces and lever strokes implemented on a specific production car. You can also upload your own settings. Don't like an overly tight lever? A couple of taps on the keyboard and the effort is reduced. So, step by step, we selected the optimal settings for the “eighty-one”. The computer processed the data and produced parameters for constructing an accurate mathematical model, according to which those very tricky central plates were made.

Why does the gearshift knob rattle?

When the car is moving at engine speeds above 3000, the gearbox lever rattling on the Kalina is a common occurrence. Car owners attribute the noise to various malfunctions of the box, but the reason is a defect in the system of attaching the lever to the rod. The handle begins to crack, buzz, vibrate or howl due to play in the assembly, which occurs due to the sleeve being too long. At low speeds, the gap does not affect the behavior of the box, but when they increase, noise occurs.

What the instruction manual recommends doing

If the gearshift lever of a Kalina rattles, the car owner opens the operating instructions. But the manual contains no information about this defect, and it is not clear what to do to eliminate it. Therefore, the standard recommendation is to contact a car service.

Traditional methods

The instructions do not provide information on how to eliminate the rattling of the gearshift knob on the Kalina-1. But there are car owner forums where experts share their work. The methods are simple; repairing the gearbox does not require a service station or expensive spare parts.

Two methods are proposed for modifying the gearshift lever in the Lada Kalina-1, after which the handle stops rattling and making noise, and vibration disappears.

Grinding a metal sleeve

1. Lift the casing, unscrew the fastening nut, remove the bolt, washers and bushing of the lever axle.
2. The sleeve is ground down with a file to 0.3-1 mm. If you remove more, the lever will move too tightly. Therefore, it is recommended to start with the minimum, collecting and checking the operation of the unit after each stage.
3. Lubrication of parts.
4. Assembly of the structure.

Grinding a metal sleeve

The operation is simple and does not take much time. To perform this you need pliers, a 13 mm wrench, a file and lubricant.

Installing a bearing instead of a bushing

To remove the rattling of the gearbox handle of Kalina-1, craftsmen remove the bushing and install a bearing instead - its outer diameter coincides with the size of the hole in the gearbox lever, and the inner diameter with the diameter of the bolt. Take five bearings 8x16x5mm (can be ordered on AliExpress). Before installation, the parts are coated with silicone grease.

Replacing gaskets

Wear of plastic gaskets is also the cause of rattling at the gearshift knob in the Kalina-1 Universal. The problem is eliminated by building up a “puck”, which is cut out of divinyl-styrene rubber, polyurethane or fluoroplastic. These materials are more resistant to wear and tear than the plastic used by the parts manufacturer. Take sheet material 1 mm thick.

The described methods help reduce the rattling of the handle and make gear shifting smooth. The asking price is from 0 to 150 rubles, the repair is not the most difficult, it can be carried out in a garage.

Source

Comments and reviews

It’s strange why all viburnums have this “rattling” sound, but the factory doesn’t even think about fixing the problem. It's good that such instructions exist.

I completely agree about the rattling, but thanks to the article, it seems to have calmed down a little :).

What other reason could there be for the rattling?

The real reason for the rattling lies in the movable fastening of the reaction rod to the gearbox (you need to look under the bottom of the car). The jet rod itself rattles (fastening: two plastic bushings, and a rubber damper between them). You can put a washer on the plastic bushing, and cut and add rubber washers to the damper so that everything is tight. Lubricate everything with lithol and the car is like new.

Today I eliminated the rattling noise on my Kalina using this technology and modified it a little, i.e. I installed a bolt 5mm longer, installed 2 regular nuts and selected the required gap with the first nut, and then locked it with the second, and so in the future you can eliminate chatter very quickly until the plastic bushings are worn down to 1mm. Then install new bushings and, as in the Russian proverb, the priest had a dog.)))

Finding the cause of the problem

There are several reasons for a rattling shift lever. So that the motorist can understand which of them he has encountered, a simple disassembly of the mechanism will be required. First of all, you need to remove the gearbox cover (lift and pull), and then make several movements with the lever and try to determine where the rattling sound comes from.

If this does not help, then you can try knocking on the lever parts. A part that is poorly secured will make a corresponding sound. Sometimes poorly secured parts can be seen with the naked eye. If these tricks did not help, then all that remains is to remove the lever bolt and inspect the elements on it.

Lada Kalina sedan Russian Mercedes Logbook Replacement of the gearbox lever ball joint race with bearing

Probably many Viburnum owners have noticed how the gearshift lever hums or rattles when reaching 3000 rpm or when braking the engine.

I also had this problem and it appeared almost immediately after buying the car. Sometimes the sound was louder, sometimes quieter. Lately it has completely bothered me and I decided to figure out the problem!

In fact, there are many methods, some successful and some not so successful) Some people roll electrical tape (I did this myself), some people use plenty of lubrication, I’ve even seen some people use a spring!

Fixing a breakdown with an aluminum can?

The second of the possible ways to eliminate rattling begins like the first. The Lada Kalina gearbox is disassembled: the cover is removed, the nut is unscrewed. Then you need to eliminate the play between the bushings and the gearbox lever (they are glued together using sealant). You need to remember how to remove all the components so that you can assemble everything later without problems.

The next step is to cut a strip from any aluminum can (from some kind of drink). Wrap the sleeve with this strip, making sure that the edges of the strip and the sleeve meet. Elimination of axial clearance is done as follows: cut a washer from the same can and insert it between the bushing, which was glued to the sealant, and the ring. Lubricate everything with a special lubricant and assemble it into the original structure that was on Kalina before disassembly.

Coat the cut strip and washer with the same lubricant. Put everything together and tighten the nut. At the same time, do not make such efforts that they could break the thread. If you have a locknut on hand, use it. This will help avoid unscrewing due to possible vibration. The renovation can be considered complete.

The bushing with the foil strip fits into place without any gaps, but there is no interference either. If everything is done correctly, then the gearshift lever should move the same way as it did before the procedure, that is, shifting gears in Kalina should not become harder. The final stage can be to check all the actions taken. Start the car, drive, shifting between first or second gear, then check the others.

After testing the car a little, we can draw conclusions: is it noisy in the cabin or not? If everything is done correctly, then the noise is eliminated.

Owners often complain about the chirping of “grasshoppers” somewhere in the area of ​​the steering column, but some find it difficult to find the culprit, while others are too lazy. I'll try to help both. Having lowered the steering column to the lower position, unscrew the two screws securing the instrument panel and remove it (don’t be confused by the slight resistance of the two metal latches at the lower corners). Now you need to remove the four screws and remove the upper casing of the steering shaft. Your eyes will see the white block of the wiring harness extending from the LCD display of the instrument cluster. Often this block touches the casing, which is what makes the noise while moving! The standard plastic harness holder does not help with this. I put a piece of rubber hose on the block, cut lengthwise, but you can use foam rubber or other suitable material.

But somewhere another source of rattling was hiding, and of a lower tone. After listening, I realized that it was the lower trim casing “talking” when it was disturbed by the steering column adjustment lever. I got rid of the annoying sound quite easily: I lowered the lever and bent it a little.

The doors of Kalina cars can rattle quite loudly - any play in the hinges is heard as a knock on bumps. On the Kalina, the hinge axis is removable and threaded into the body. If the tightening becomes loose, the knot begins to tap harder and harder. Let's tighten the axle - you'll need a TORX T-40 head. But it happens that the tightening of the axle weakens again. Then we unscrew it completely (an assistant supports the door), clean the threads and, after applying adhesive-fixer, screw it into place. As a rule, this will last for a long time, but we will still make a paint mark on the axis of each hinge and the body. Such a beacon will allow you to keep an eye on the condition of the loop in the future, without bringing things to the point of knocking.

I’ll end the story with advice for those who are just planning to buy a Kalina. If I adjust the front seat to suit myself (my height is 174 cm), then it is impossible to unfold the rear seat to carry cargo. The adjustment range of the front seat is 168 mm, and the raised rear cushion eats up a good 90 mm. If you have to transport cargo, it is better to remove the pillows in advance and leave them at home (in the garage) or reserve a place for them in the cabin.

I decided to update an existing article that was written more than a year ago. In that case, the rattling of the gearshift lever was not particularly strong and was eliminated quite simply, which will be written about at the very bottom.

In the meantime, I want to give a short instruction on how to eliminate lever rattling on Kalina. For this I needed the following accessories:

• Open-end wrench or socket wrench 13
• Pliers
• Electric sharpener

SYNCHRONIZER

Lada Kalina hatchback Sport Logbook Replacing handbrake cables on the Luca ZTD

The first samples were equipped with a three-cone synchronizer. But calculations have shown that double-cone, cheaper ones, can withstand the required torque with a margin (see pictures). Among other advantages, they made it possible to get rid of the problematic cone on the gears of the first and second gears, which is in contact with the synchronizer ring and requires high precision in manufacturing. The ring set now creates two friction surfaces for smooth and efficient synchronization. In addition, the German manufacturer (Ho¨rbiger) applies an additional coating to the intermediate ring, which reduces wear and ensures stable operating parameters, including the required coefficient of friction.

If the cause of the rattling is in the upper gearbox cover or nuts

In some cases, the Lada Kalina lever rattles due to the fact that the gearbox cover does not fit tightly enough to the mechanisms located under it. If this is the cause of the problem, then it is enough to remove the cap and stick a piece of electrical tape about 3 mm wide and a length corresponding to the diameter of the cap on its inner surface.

After such a DIY repair, the cap should fit tightly. If the gearshift lever is still dangling, then you should apply another circle of electrical tape and put on the cover. Sometimes the cause of an unpleasant sound is poorly tightened nuts. This problem can be easily detected by removing the cover of the device. In this case, it is enough to tighten the nuts all the way so that the noise disappears. Upon completion of the work, you need to accelerate the vehicle and release the gas pedal. If the mechanism no longer hums, then the gearbox repair is complete.

Automatic transmission

“Automatic” was installed on the car of the Togliatti Automobile Plant from July 2012 to March 2015 - this is 4 speed. Automatic transmission from Japanese manufacturer Jatco.

Grant's four-speed automatic transmission - model JF414E, classic type, with a torque converter; similar units are equipped in Nissan, Mitsubishi, and Suzuki passenger cars.

This type of transmission on Granta is paired only with the 98-horsepower VAZ-21126 power unit.

The gearbox is highly reliable; with careful operation and timely maintenance, it can run up to 200 thousand km.

It is necessary to replace the transmission fluid every 60 thousand km; the manufacturer recommends filling with Nissan branded ATF EJ-1 or Matic-S oil.

Automatic transmission problems.

The quality of the Lada Granta automatic transmission does not cause any major complaints; if the transmission requires repair, it is mainly due to the fault of the driver:

• as a result of slipping, the clutches burn out;
• after overheating, gaskets and seals begin to leak;
• When you hit an obstacle, the automatic transmission pan breaks through, and then a thorough repair is definitely required.

Car owners have more complaints about the performance characteristics of an automatic transmission - increased fuel consumption, sluggish acceleration of the car, jerking during gear changes during dynamic driving.

Causes of rattling of the Kalina gearbox handle

The Kalina gearshift lever is a component of the transmission. The handle is functional and fits comfortably in the hand. Thanks to the lever, speed modes can be quickly changed. It should be noted that the lever is securely locked, which increases the clarity of gear shifting.

Why is the gearshift lever dangling? One of the reasons for this has to do with the engine mount. In particular, the fastening may have become loose (the bolt needs to be tightened).

Why does the gearshift lever rattle on Kalina? Both the car owner of a car with high mileage and the owner of a newly purchased Lada may encounter this problem. First of all, the rattling of the gearbox lever is due to the fact that the fastenings have become loose. In some cases, the problem may lie in the bushing, lever bolt, or gearbox cover. The specialists of a specialized center can accurately determine the reason for the play of the handle, why the lever began to dangle on the box. They will take appropriate measures to correct the problem (replacement of components may be necessary). You should purchase original spare parts for Kalina.

Recommendations

Comments 20

I forgot to add that the rear bearings in the housing cannot just turn, they are clamped by a plate. There is no tight fit, only clamping with a plate, again, the factory tolerances are violated, everything must be measured during the assembly process, and the plate must be new, and tighten the screws with an impact screwdriver; do not tighten them to the required torque by hand.

Everything that is written here about the checkpoint is all at the level of speculation, and not knowledge of the technical part. Think theoretically, when the car is parked and the engine is at idle, then only the input shaft rotates in the gearbox, and only two bearings work with it. Roller front and ball rear. The ball knocks on very rare occasions, this is if he is really fucked up, mostly he howls. But the roller one makes a knock if it is of poor quality. It would take a long time to explain the nature of the knock; it has to do with the clutch disc and wear on the splines of the shaft and disc, and again the quality of the workmanship. Sometimes the gears on the secondary shaft jangle, they rotate, but the shaft stands still. At the factory they don't bother with quality. If all tolerances are met, the gearbox will work quietly, but for this you need to have several sets of gears and bearings, and select all this, which is impossible at home. The main couple howls as they walk, there’s nothing you can do about it. To reduce the howling, use additives, I poured VMP Auto.

Hi, what kind of thread locker is this? Do you have a number?

there are plates fixing the shafts, SKF bearings come from the factory to the 2181 gearbox

If the bearings start turning again on the outer race, everything will come back again. It's not even a matter of new bearings; the old ones turned out to be no worse than the new ones. The fit in the body of the box itself is simply loose. Therefore, the output was placed on a clamp.

Advantages of a short-stroke rocker

The advantages of a short-throw shifter are that, in addition to the clarity of gear engagement, less time is spent on this, and accordingly, acceleration becomes faster. Moreover, the price of the issue is not so high. The dynamics of the car improves.

And one more thing that should be noted is that the rattling and shifting of the lever disappears. Why? Their number is really reduced because a backlash-free Kalinovsky cardan is installed.

To summarize this article, we can say with confidence that a short-stroke rocker significantly improves comfort for the driver of the car. And many people note that after installation the cabin becomes much quieter. And if you take into account the number of advantages and the not at all high price, then we can confidently recommend this product to you.

ROPE DRIVE

The single-rod gear shift drive was replaced by a cable. The unpleasant vibrations on the lever are gone, there is less play, and shifting is clearer.

Lightweight aluminum German gear forks are equipped with anti-wear shoes made of plastic. Previous parts were cast from steel, and to reduce wear, a bronze layer was applied to individual parts, which wore off over time and tinted the oil with golden powder.

VAZ-2181 is the first AVTOVAZ gearbox for which a computer calculation of all parts subject to loads was performed: crankcases, forks, levers, etc. Thus, the design was not only optimized, but also made more reliable.

1 — gear selector levers;

3 — selector grid;

5 - central three-dimensional plate.

Thank you for your help in preparing the material.

Mikhail Votinov, Vladimir Petunin,

Replacement instructions

Changing the tips is not difficult; the process can be done by a car enthusiast with his own hands if he has the appropriate tool. Place the car on a level surface. It needs to be jacked up on the side where the tip will be replaced and the wheel removed.

Then, having cleaned the necessary components from dirt and dust, you should apply a WD-type penetrating lubricant to the threaded connections. Now you need to loosen the bolt that tightens the tip with the steering rod and pull the cotter pin out of the ball pin with pliers. It is easier to detach the part from the swing arm using a special puller.

If you don't have one, you can use a pry bar and a hammer. It is necessary to insert the pry bar between the tip and the swing arm, make a wedging motion and hit the swing arm earring with a hammer. After a few blows, the tip will pop out of engagement.

To dismantle the steering tip, unscrew it from the rod. Count the number of turns until it is completely unscrewed: this will be very helpful when installing a new part and carrying out adjustment work. You need to unscrew the tip clockwise, since the connection has a left-hand thread. After replacement, all parts are installed strictly in the reverse order.

What causes a knocking sound in the front suspension of a car when turning the steering wheel while driving?

The chassis and steering mechanism are tightly coupled and perform a single function. One rack command is not enough to turn the wheels in one direction. The racks, which are connected by tips and rods to the rack and pinion assembly, must not only absorb shock, but also rotate around their own axis. This became possible with the introduction of movable mounts.

What's causing the knocking?

When there is a knocking sound when turning the steering wheel while driving, but no extraneous sounds are observed in place, we can firmly state that there are problems with the suspension. Its design includes a sufficient number of connections that use bearings. Any support gradually fails, as evidenced by increased play.

1. Strut support bearing.
2. Spherical bearing.
3. Wheel bearing.

How to identify tapping

You can calculate the knock in the front suspension of a car when turning the steering wheel experimentally. The work is carried out both on site and while moving - it all depends on the location of the defective area:

• The support bearing is checked by rocking the body to the sides: the hand lying on the “support” holder should not feel any play. The second diagnostic method: grab the front wheel spring and ask an assistant to rock the steering wheel to the sides - there should be no knocking.
• A metallic clatter will be heard in the worn out “ball” when bent with a pry bar.
• The hub support makes a dull knock when turning the steering wheel at small angles at a speed of 50-60 km/h.

For information

Often tapping occurs due to worn silent blocks. There are cases when the occurrence of a metallic sound is associated with the loosening of the nut securing the CV joints to the hubs. The hinge itself cannot knock - it is only capable of making a knock. A wheel spun with a small torque also interferes with acoustic comfort.

Inexperienced owners may confuse the symptoms of a steering malfunction with vibrations in the steering wheel when the car is braking. However, there the nature of the problem is completely different. Strong shocks in the steering wheel can be caused by poor-quality tires or imbalance in the wheel.