The clutch is one of the most important mechanisms in a car. This mechanism ensures that the torque of the car engine is transmitted to the driven disc through the clutch basket. The clutch disc is in constant contact with the flywheel using a spring mechanism. It is affected by the release bearing, the function of which is to disconnect the torque of the motor from the driven disk when you press the pedal. Like all elements of a vehicle, the clutch is subject to wear and various types of problems.
Car owners often do not take into account the existing creaking of the clutch pedal. In fact, this may indicate a number of serious malfunctions. Photo: autoskipper.ru
Clutch pedal squeaks - prerequisites and methods for solving the problem
Hi all. Not long ago I talked about the reasons for the failure of the clutch pedal, as well as methods for solving this phenomenon. Now I’ve decided to supplement the series of articles on the clutch with another, no less pressing topic - the creaking of the clutch pedal.
You will learn about the reasons why the clutch pedal squeaks and how to get rid of it.
I’ll say right away that the creaking of a pedal, whether it’s a clutch or a brake, almost always does not affect its functionality and, by and large, is an ordinary irritant that infuriates almost all motorists. The creaking or grinding of pedals occasionally indicates serious breakdowns, but before you give up on it with the words “I still have nerves of steel,” I recommend making sure that the problem is really not worth attention.
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Clutch pedal creaking - prerequisites
The main prerequisite in the vast majority of cases is the drive, which can be either mechanical or hydraulic. The force you exert on the pedals is transmitted to the clutch fork by means of a cable or hydraulic system. Despite the fact that hydraulic and mechanical drives have different designs, their creaking is monotonous. On models such as: VAZ 2110, 2112, 2114, 2115, a mechanical cable clutch is installed. In some models, in order to compensate for friction lining wear, the manufacturer installs a mechanism that does not require adjustment. This clutch is equipped with: Priora, Granta, and also Kalina.
When the driver notices that the clutch pedal is creaking, this already means that the problem has reached a certain point. Creaking is associated with excessive wear of working parts (for example, the fastening mechanism), water ingress on rubbing surfaces, and other reasons for which increased friction occurs. Often, pedal squeaking occurs due to the return mechanism.
Such sounds most often appear not when pressing, but when releasing the pedal, just at the moment when the clutch mechanism is released from overload. If we talk about the pedal assembly, then only mechanical connections and the return spring can creak there. The problem of the creaking itself is unpleasant because it is very difficult to get to the pedal block. Working in a confined space is not easy, because the work requires a lot of strength and patience.
The clutch pedal squeaks due to wear on the mounting mechanism. For most VAZ models, the pedals are mounted on hinged mounts and axles. Either a plastic bushing or lubricant is responsible for the pedal sliding on the axle. By and large, plastic bushings do not anticipate the presence of lubricant, but if you still add it, it won’t be worse. A squeaking clutch pedal can appear even on the newest cars, in which everything is working properly. You can remove creaking and grinding noises by applying lubricant or replacing the bushing and spring; the most important thing is to find where exactly the creaking is coming from. The lubrication itself is carried out after complete dismantling of the pedal block together with all mechanisms. The work is complicated by the fact that the dismantling process takes a lot of time and is considered very labor-intensive. If you don't want to remove all the pedals, you can try lubrication using a syringe. Apply oil to the rubbing parts, inside the bushings, and also where you think it is necessary. We remove the remaining lubricant with a rag, after which we check whether the clutch pedal squeaks or not.
If after lubrication nothing has changed, you can imagine that the reason is in the return spring. The spring may hit something or creak on its own. We lubricate the spring, if necessary, with silicone grease or WD-40, but the effect will most likely be short-term. Therefore, it is better to use the most severe lubricants such as graphite or CV joint lubricant.
The cable creaks. In some cases, creaking, grinding and clicking noises are associated with disturbances in the operation of the mechanical drive. The problem in this case is that the cable can creak both outside and inside the cabin. Full lubrication of the cable along its entire length will help correct this situation. The procedure is not difficult and does not take much time, so if this is the reason, then you can consider yourself lucky. For convenience, the cable is disconnected from the clutch fork, after which it is lubricated from the engine compartment. If the cable is old and shows signs of wear, lubrication is unlikely to be advisable, it would be better if you completely replace the clutch cable. Unprotected working surfaces of the cable that are outside the protective casing should be lubricated with waterproof grease.
The creaking of the compensatory mechanism. If the car has such a mechanism (it is located under the hood or near the pedal), the new cable can make unpleasant sounds and clicks, similar to squeaking or grinding. The problem in this situation is due to the fact that the mechanism is not worn in and requires lubrication of the compensation mechanism.
If the creaking of the VAZ clutch pedal is not associated with any of the problems listed above, there is a suspicion that unpleasant sounds are generated in the crankcase area. Such a squeak can be produced, for example, by the clutch fork. The difficulty in this situation is that it is possible to check whether the problem is or not only after completely dismantling the clutch. There are indeed some tricks like lubrication without removal, but they require certain skills and accuracy. The trick and dexterity lies in the ability to lubricate the fork with oil without removing the checkpoint (Checkpoint - a point designed to control passage (visit) and access to the territory of any facility)
. But if it is not the fork that is creaking, but another mechanism, the quickest way is to remove it.
The fork is lubricated as follows. We take out the rubber plug, then fill the syringe with lubricant and carefully apply a few drops to the clutch fork axle. For cars whose forks do not have an axle, lubrication occurs slightly differently. Using a strong screwdriver or mounting tool, the fork is moved to the side, after which it is lubricated with a thick lubricant like “Litol” at the point of contact of the fork with the rod.
Source: vaz-remont.ru
The essence of the problem
Everyone decides to fight this scourge on their own, using their own resources (using the “scientific” method) or uses the advice of experienced “logan breeders” who have conquered this terrible “melody”. In this article you will learn about where this squeak comes from and how to cure it with your own hands.
We are looking for the cause
In fact, based on the design of the Renault Logan clutch, creaking can come from anything, from the bolt securing the pedal together with the spring, to the clutch basket with the release bearing. Such problems begin to appear from least to greatest after only kilometers of driving.
We are looking for a solution
Replace the clutch cable if it shows signs of mechanical stress and damage.
If the car's mileage is not too high and there are no problems with the clutch, first of all, pay attention to the condition of the transmission pedal cable. Visual damage, tears and corrosion are the determining indicators for its replacement.
This spring needs to be lubricated first.
If the cable is intact, then it is recommended to treat all rubbing surfaces (including the pedal spring) with silicone grease or WD-40. If such manipulations do not solve the problem, then it is necessary to look for it through the engine compartment, removing that same cable and replacing it with a new one. If this does not help, then the clutch assembly will need to be replaced.
PS
Remember that during operation, during operation, it is not the clutch cable itself that fails, but its casing, which wears out much faster. Therefore, when buying new parts, choose the highest quality of all.
Clutch pedal creaking on the latest Priora
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Comments 25
Now I tried it, it didn’t help (( Granta Drive Active 60,000 mileage
A week later I started clicking again. Not so long ago I was driving a Datsum taxi, it clicks like crazy and I sold it to Grant for fuck's sake
There is an opinion that after such improvement the clutch cable breaks after a certain time. I don’t understand whether it’s a coincidence or not, but my cable broke in this particular place, a couple of months after installing a piece of metal-plastic there. Although I can say in support that there are no more clicks. And at the moment, even the newest one does not crunch))
Crunched up to 47 thousand km. Later, it can crunch and there are no more clicks or crunches. Everything became soft and quiet on its own
Curious... My mileage is 43 thousand km. It was necessary to wait))) for the sake of enthusiasm, I’ll take it out in a month and check it.
I’m not saying anything)) it happened to me personally)) I don’t even understand whether this will happen to you or not)))
There was also such a failure. I changed the spring to a stiffer one. It's been quiet for six months now
Yesterday I set the gap to 27 mm and everything worked. It works unsurpassed
I will inspect the gap and pull it out for testing.
I had enough for a week
A week has passed, everything is ok. I read reviews of people who have been riding for 2 years and everything is ok. You will also need to check the 27mm gap.
I generously lubricated the ratchet mechanism with graphite lubricant from Oilwright. Contributed
Lubricated it didn't help. But it slightly relieved the squeak; after all, the hose does not eliminate the squeak, but eliminates the clicks and gives softness to the pressure because the angle of travel of the cable changes.
This method is not for everyone, it didn’t work for me, I changed the cable to a new one, after 3k the same picture happened again. In the photo, 3 machines click, and the 1st one has an automatic machine.
I read your review. Well, the video helped me. Apparently it works for someone and everything is ok, for someone it doesn’t work and there’s no way to fix it.
Before I got behind the wheel of the Granta, I read the primer for it. The clicking noise is produced by the automatic wear compensator for the disc linings and the cable pull. It clicked once a day for about two weeks, at the moment if it clicks once every six months that’s all. Did not do anything!
I read your commentary before installation. Specifically, clicks and not clicks, I have one now and listen to the video, but earlier everything creaked and clicked. I've been driving for 2 months and it's constantly clicking and from time to time it even feels like the plastic is breaking with a crunching sound being squeezed out. At this point, a week has passed and everything is ok. And one of the main advantages was the soft pedal. We simply change the angle of travel of the cable, but not the most.
My pedal was always soft, there were clicks (on the newest one) once per squeeze. When I worked as a driving instructor, there were also clicks all the time, but one at a time, not the most.
Right now I also have one for the squeeze. Well, I heard it myself.
I set the gap to 27 mm and filled the ratchet mechanism with oil from a syringe and silicone from a balloon. There were no clicks at first, and there was no creaking.
Source: www.drive2.com
Solution
In almost all cases, the problem of a squeaking clutch pedal can be eliminated with the help of lubricant. To do this, you need to lubricate all intensively rubbing parts.
Experts recommend using thick grease (CV joint or something like that) as a lubricant. If the car was designed in such a way that it is impossible to get to the pedal elements or spring, do not despair - there is a way out. Use a slotted screwdriver for this. Apply a little lubricant to its metal part, after which you can reach the necessary places with a screwdriver.
There is also a possibility that the squeak does not come from the pedal, but from the clutch fork. During operation, it serves as a place for dirt and used lubricant to accumulate. Because of this, this unpleasant sound appears.
In order to eliminate squeaking in the clutch fork, it must be washed from dirt. Naturally, it is very difficult to reach it, so this must be done through the engine compartment. To clean, you can use carburetor cleaner - it will do the job perfectly. Once you have removed all the accumulated dirt, apply a coat of thick lubricant to the fork.
Other possible squeaks
In addition to the clutch pedal, the reasons for the appearance of squeaks we have already figured out, the reason may lie elsewhere. For example, if the clutch mechanism uses a cable drive, then it is often the cause of unpleasant sounds. If this is the case, simply changing the lubricant will not help solve the problem. To do this, it is necessary to replace the clutch cable.
If you hear a squeak somewhere from the engine, this indicates a faulty release bearing. To fix this problem, you will most likely need to replace the release bearing.
The clutch pedal may make peculiar noises due to the clutch actuator. This is due to the fact that all the work of the clutch is mechanical friction of the working parts. Naturally, the appearance of noise cannot be avoided. In order to get rid of annoying sounds, you will need to periodically lubricate the rubbing parts. Because you will not be able to control a constant level of lubrication - everything is washed off during operation.
There is a more difficult way out of this situation. Using a skilled turner, turn the bushing between the rubbing parts from a softer metal or polycarbonate. In this case, the occurrence of unpleasant sounds will stop, because the friction of different materials will not create such noise as two materials of the same density and structure create.
Many owners of Lada Granta, Kalina and Priora notice the creaking of the clutch pedal. Moreover, this problem may arise after the first kilometers of driving. We will tell you about the possible causes of this disease, as well as ways to solve it.
First, make sure your car's clutch is adjusted correctly. While holding the clutch cable end in an extended position, measure the size between the fork and the driver, it should be 27 mm. How to adjust the clutch cable is shown in the video:
https://youtube.com/watch?v=vYme_hsn6nM%23t%3D210
About 11% claim that the causes of clutch squeaking were in the clutch cable
Pay attention to the presence of a spring in the tension mechanism; Lada Kalina 2 and Lada Granta may not have it. It is worth noting that this spring is present on the clutch cable of the Lada Priora and the owners of these cars practically do not encounter a squeaking clutch pedal
If there is no spring, then it should be installed. Also, it would be a good idea to lubricate the clutch cable using a thin tube, or, if suitable, install a clutch cable from Lada Priora (catalog number: 21700-1602210).
Even less often (about 4% of owners) they solved the problem of a squeaking clutch pedal by lubricating the tip of the clutch cable. Apply lithol to the contact point between the plastic cable nut (No. 2) and the clutch fork (No. 1).
And about 3% of owners solved the problem with the help of lubricant (graphite) of the gearbox input shaft. To do this, you will have to remove the boot from the clutch fork lever (No. 6), and then lubricate it by inserting a tube from a lubricant can into the hole.
Most often (in 24% of cases), the creaking comes from the plastic pedal bushing, which rubs against the bracket. In this case, you should simply lubricate the rubbing areas with lithol.
In conclusion, I would like to note that it is better to start diagnosing a malfunction by determining the source (direction) of extraneous noise. Then you won't have to do extra work. Let us remind you that knocking noises on Lada cars can also come from the steering rack.
Engaging and disengaging a working clutch occurs silently. If squeaks and noises appear, it’s time for you to have the part diagnosed.
Clutch pedal on Priora
November 4, 2008, 16:00 #1
I bought the car in the middle of December last year. Now the mileage is 1800 km. Right now there is such a problem that when the car warms up and moves a little, then later the clutch pedal begins to click when it is released completely. Has anyone encountered this and can you tell me what it could be?
February 6, 2009, 00:26 #2
I bought the car in October 2008. The clutch pedal started clicking when pressed after a month. This is the fastest pedal mounting bushing, but I haven’t looked at it myself yet. Whenever I see it, I’ll say it literally.
February 23, 2009, 16:42 #3
Men, I have the same thing, the clutch pedal clicks, I don’t understand what to do! Tell me something?
February 23, 2009, 16:45 #4
there is a piece of plastic there that pulls the cable, so it clicks
23 February 2009, 19:41 #5
Over time it will get used, and virtually no clicks will be heard.
23 February 2009, 21:26 #6
I also had clicks. It passed {by itself} and I didn’t even see it.
Naberezhnye Chelny RT
February 23, 2009, 10:03 pm #7
And I also have this problem, which periodically arises and disappears.
24 February 2009, 19:19 #8
It seems like it’s global, it also clicks for me from time to time.
March 2, 2009, 13:21 #9
I’m not the only one whose pedal clicks in a Prior, I was told that when it clicks, the clutch cable is stretched, like a car. I don’t understand whether this is true or not.
Vsevolozhsk Len. region
March 3, 2009, 5:22 pm #10
It really clicks when you're stuck in traffic jams. I lubricated the bushing and cable with CV joint grease - it became a little quieter and that’s it. Literally globally.
FakeHeader
Comments 15
on the priors there is a rubber seal, at least lubricate the tensioning mechanism or not, the output will click one cable from the 10th family
I poured WD 40 where the pedal is, under the boot on the cable where it clings to the fork, and under the fork boot in the box
you need to lubricate the cable... and everything will go away + see the tension
I also had a problem a month after purchase)) and this is a new car)) there was a creaking from the mechanism, I spilled a lot of VD)) nothing appeared for six months.
In general, it is in the priorotros in the mechanism that there is a spring that tensions the mechanism, preventing it from creaking. Maybe someone doesn’t have a spring, then you can see how I fixed it, creaking in the sense
