Why does an emulsion form on the dipstick and oil filler cap?

Where can engine oil leak from?

If during the next daily inspection it turns out that the oil level is significantly below the maximum level, you should seriously look into troubleshooting.
First of all, it is important to determine where the leak is located

First of all, it is advisable to pay attention to the accessible engine components. One of them is the valve cover.

From under the valve cover

A leak in the valve mechanism may result in oil leakage from the engine lubrication system. Often, this problem is signaled by a characteristic burning smell from under the engine exhaust manifold.

In this case, it cannot be said with a high degree of probability that replacing the gasket will solve the problem. The occurrence of the presented malfunction may be associated with excessive pressure in the engine lubrication system.

This situation can be caused, for example, by a malfunction of the so-called pressure reducing valve.

Crankshaft oil seal

If a leak in the valve cover gasket can be corrected with little effort, as they say, the situation with the crankshaft oil seal is much more complicated. Replacing it due to the design features of the engine will require a lot of time and labor.

What could have caused the breach of its tightness?

Let us arrange the most probable causes of this malfunction in a certain sequence, starting with the most frequent:

• the operational resource has been developed;
• failure in the crankcase ventilation system;
• defective components;
• unscrupulous repairs.

Oil leak between engine and gearbox

Do not forget that the clutch flywheel housing also contains an oil seal, which sometimes makes itself felt, although extremely rarely. To verify the presence of such a malfunction, you will have to look under the bottom of the car.

In this case, it is best to drive the car into an inspection hole or so-called overpass. The presence of a leak will be indicated by an oily surface of the clutch housing and gearbox housing. To replace the oil seal, you will need to dismantle the gearbox.

Let us focus our attention on the reasons for this unfavorable phenomenon. Among them are:

• mismatch of lubricant viscosity;
• failures in the crankcase ventilation system;
• loss of elasticity of rubber goods;
• poor quality components.

Oil filter gasket

The oil filter seal can also be the culprit for an oil leak. So, during the next scheduled filter replacement, it could simply be tightened, and this is unacceptable. With such repairs, unfortunate oil leaks may appear over time.

It is also worth mentioning the fact that after each filter replacement, all associated rubber goods must be replaced. If this is not done, there is a high probability that oil formations will soon appear at the filter connection site.

In a particular case, oil from the engine lubrication system may be squeezed out due to malfunctions in the operation of the VKG system.

Engine crankcase problems

A frequent cause of engine oil leaks can be violations of the crankcase ventilation system. For the most part, owners of fairly used cars face a similar problem.

The fact is that as the CPG wears out, exhaust gases begin to accumulate in the engine crankcase. With a working crankcase ventilation system, excess pressure would be vented into the engine intake manifold. But it also happens that after prolonged use, and in the absence of proper care, the elements of the system become clogged.

This state of affairs leads to the fact that the gases have nowhere to go, and they begin to look for the most vulnerable places, which are played by various sealing elements.

Why is oil foaming dangerous?

The appearance of foam is a sign of engine malfunction. First of all, you need to figure out what danger air bubbles in oil pose. Often it is because of them that the following consequences arise:

1. Viscosity values ​​change. Because of this, the composition cannot provide normal lubrication of the parts inside, which disrupts the operation of all elements of the mechanism and can affect any of the components.
2. Oil with foam cannot penetrate small channels properly, so lubrication of small parts is significantly impaired. If you use a machine for a long time, the likelihood of a breakdown increases tenfold.
3. Due to increased friction of moving elements, their wear increases significantly. Because of this, the engine life is greatly reduced. At best, a major overhaul will be required, at worst, replacement of a heavily worn unit.
4. Since the oil also serves to cool many internal parts, if its properties are violated, they begin to overheat. The most important thing is that this cannot be detected, since the coolant temperature is normal and there are no signs of overheating.
5. If there is a lack of lubrication, very often fine metal shavings begin to form from friction. Over time, it clogs the channels of the lubrication system, which leads to engine failure, since changing the oil will not get rid of chips; only disassembling and washing will help.

Experienced drivers notice changes in engine performance quite quickly, but beginners and those who have no experience in repairs can drive for quite a long time.
This aggravates the problem even more, since the negative impact on the parts is much greater, which leads to their severe wear or failure. Advice!
You should check the oil level 1-2 times a week, and at the same time carefully inspect the dipstick for air bubbles - there should be none at all.

Emulsion with oil and coolant

Additionally, the appearance of such a nuisance can be indicated by a constant decrease in the level of antifreeze (or antifreeze) in the expansion tank and an increase in the level of engine oil in the sump.

It is also recommended to pay attention to the color of the smoke from the exhaust pipe. If the smoke is white and thick, then there is a high probability that the tightness of the gasket under the cylinder head is broken and coolant gets into the oil

Another sign of antifreeze getting into the oil can be the presence of an oil film in the coolant reservoir. Also in this case, it can be stated that oil has entered the cooling system.

Important! If a layer of emulsion is detected on the dipstick, further operation of the engine cannot be continued. If there is an emulsion in the oil system, the oil loses its lubricating properties.

Also, with further operation, there is a high probability that engine oil will enter the cooling system, which will ultimately result in engine overheating

If there is an emulsion in the oil system, the oil loses its lubricating properties. Also, with further operation, there is a high probability that engine oil will enter the cooling system, which will ultimately result in engine overheating.

Reasons for education

There may be several reasons why antifreeze (or antifreeze) gets into the engine oil with the subsequent formation of an emulsion: Violation of the tightness of the cylinder head gasket (cylinder head).

It is very rare to come across cylinder head gaskets with factory defects. Much more often, “weak zones” appear in the gasket contact areas due to deformation of the cylinder block or its head after overheating. It is in such “weak zones” that micro-holes appear, through which coolant leaks from the cooling jacket into the channel where the oil circulates. The tightness of the gasket between the cylinder block and its head can also be broken for other reasons: elongated bolts, non-compliance with the sequence and tightening force of the cylinder head bolts, poorly milled and ground mating surfaces.

Cracks in the cylinder, cylinder block and its head.

Typically, cracks in these engine elements are formed due to mechanical shock, severe overheating or freezing of low-quality coolant (so-called “defrosting”).

Erosion of the cylinder block and its head.

Some low-quality coolants have such an aggressive chemical composition that they can corrode metal. The result of such aggression can be the formation of craters near the channels with circulating coolant. If erosion spreads towards the oil channel, the gasket of the main block will weaken, followed by penetration of antifreeze (or antifreeze) into the oil.

Microcracks between channels

through which oil and coolant circulate. Typically, such microcracks form after severe overheating of the engine.

Violation of the tightness of the heat exchanger gasket.

In many cases, the appearance of an emulsion is associated with design flaws in the heat exchanger itself. Owners of Opel with the Z18XER engine modification were especially unlucky in this regard.

Sometimes a microcrack opens in a very frozen engine, into which coolant leaks and enters the oil. But when the engine heats up, the metal expands and the microcrack closes. It is very difficult to identify such a defect, like other microcracks.

Additional symptoms of trouble

As already noted, an emulsion is a mixed mixture of water and oil in the form of foam. A copious amount of white or yellowish foam on the cover and dipstick indicates that liquid is leaking into the engine crankcase, and it is present only in the cooling system. Therefore, the location of the leak should first be looked for in those parts of the engine where the lubrication and cooling channels run nearby.

Note that the appearance of a coolant leak inside the engine may be accompanied by a number of other signs:

1. A constant decrease in the coolant level in the expansion tank and the need for periodic topping up.
2. Oil film in the expansion tank.
3. The interior heating system provides virtually no heat.
4. The engine oil level is higher than normal.
5. Copious white smoke from the exhaust pipe.
6. Interruptions in engine operation.

All this indicates that antifreeze has entered the oil channels. If you do not take any action and continue to operate the car, the engine will be damaged due to lack of normal lubrication, and expensive major repairs or a complete replacement of the engine will be required to restore functionality.

Where to look for the cause of an antifreeze leak?

A leak can occur due to:

• block heads;
• cylinder head gaskets;
• cracks in the cylinder;
• cracks in the block head.

Let's start with the block head. This component of the engine is made of non-ferrous metals and, when installed, is strongly bolted to the cylinder block.

As a result of metal expansion due to overheating, the head warps. In some places, gaps appear between the cylinder head and the block, through which technical fluids enter the channels of other systems. That is, the coolant simply reaches the oil channels through the cracks and is mixed with the lubricant.

This malfunction is not very complex and can be easily repaired. But this will require dismantling the head, grinding its surface adjacent to the block, replacing the gasket and lubricant. When changing, it is necessary to flush the engine and lubrication system and replace the “old” oil with antifreeze impurities.

But warping of the block head causes the formation of an emulsion not so often. A more common problem is a cylinder head gasket failure.

This happens for the same reason - engine overheating. But if the head warps only when exposed to high temperatures for a long time, then short-term overheating is sufficient to damage the gasket. And since lubrication and cooling channels pass through the gasket, the jumpers between them are destroyed by high temperature. Note that a breakdown does not always occur only between channels. Damage can also connect the channels to the cylinder or lead outside the engine.

Although a cylinder head gasket failure is the most common reason for the appearance of a white emulsion in engine oil, it is also considered the easiest to fix. To do this, you just need to replace the damaged gasket with a new one, as well as change the engine oil and flush the engine. An experienced car enthusiast can carry out repairs within 4-5 hours.

Although cracks in the cylinder rarely occur, they can also cause the formation of an emulsion. This usually occurs due to defects in the metal structure of the liner.

Video: Emulsion on the oil filler cap

Over time, existing defects can lead to the appearance of a crack in the cylinder wall, and as it cools, liquid begins to leak into the combustion chambers. Most of the fluid leaves the engine through the exhaust pipe, but some of it also gets into the sub-piston space, which is where the emulsion comes from.

It is possible to repair an engine with such a breakdown only if the liners in it are removable and can be replaced. But in a number of power plants, the cylinders cannot be removed, and in this case the entire block must be replaced.

Another serious problem, the consequence of which is the formation of an emulsion in motor oil, is cracks in the head and block. They can form from overheating, internal metal defects, or shock loads.

Such damage is very difficult to identify, especially in the block, since the lubrication and cooling channels pass inside it, and it is not always possible to inspect or diagnose them.

It will also be impossible to repair such damage. Therefore, the engine part with the crack is simply replaced.

In order to avoid unscheduled engine repairs due to the appearance of an engine oil emulsion, it is only sufficient to carry out timely maintenance, especially regarding the replacement of technical fluids, and also to prevent the engine from overheating. And to do this, you should constantly monitor the temperature while driving.

If a problem with the emulsion in the engine oil appears, it is better to start the search with the simplest thing - the cylinder head gasket. In this case, after dismantling the head when replacing it, you should check it for warpage. This is very easy to do even in a garage. To do this, place the head with the surface adjacent to the block on clean glass. The irregularities formed as a result of warping will be clearly visible.

Usually the reason lies in the head and its gasket. Cracks in liners, block and cylinder head are very rare.

Welcome, friends, to the DIY auto repair website. Checking the engine oil is one of the main tasks of a car enthusiast. With its help, you can not only find out the level of lubricating fluid, but also assess the condition of the oil.

Emulsion on the dipstick

For example, darkening and the appearance of dark impurities in it literally “screams” about the need for replacement, and the appearance of small metal shavings is a sign of increased friction between engine elements (a possible reason is the wrong type of oil).

But what is most misleading is the white emulsion on the dipstick. What is the reason? Does the engine need to be repaired? Should we panic at all?

The engine oil has thickened, turned black, foamed, and emulsified: reasons (and what to do)

September 04, 2022 Category: Useful information.

We wrote here how to choose diesel oil, and how often you need to change it here.

And recently they told us how to check the oil level with a dipstick, top it up to the level and change the lubricant in a diesel internal combustion engine.

But what to do if, when checking or changing the oil, you find that it has “gotten bad”? What problems with the engine does black, thick or too thin oil, foam or emulsion indicate?

What should you be wary of when checking the oil level in a diesel engine?

The life of the unit directly depends on the quality and properties of the engine oil in the lubrication system of a diesel internal combustion engine. Therefore, the car owner should be alert to any changes in the consistency, color, condition and level of the oil.

A cause for concern for the owner and serious diagnostics is if the engine oil:

foams or emulsifies

Perhaps a complete oil change and engine flush will solve the problem. In any case, you cannot simply continue to use such a lubricant.

Why did the engine oil turn black very soon after changing it?

Darkening of freshly filled motor oil in a diesel engine after 200-500 km is a normal process . This, on the contrary, indicates that the dispersing and detergent additives in the oil work effectively . With the accumulation of various deposits, fuel combustion products and soot, the oil darkens, and by the end of its service life it may even turn black.

This happens especially quickly on older engines and on engines operating under difficult conditions. Mineral and semi-synthetic oils darken the fastest.

On the contrary, if after changing the oil in a diesel engine it does not darken at all after 1.5-2 thousand kilometers, this is a sign of poor oil quality. It has no detergent properties, it is not able to retain deposits and soot - all the dirt remains in the lubrication system of the internal combustion engine.

But if the diesel oil does not darken, collecting dirt and combustion products, but becomes black like fuel oil, this is a reason to be wary .

To begin, remove the dipstick and wipe it with a clean cloth. If black streaks remain on the dipstick, this is a sign that the lubricant in the engine is running low.

Perhaps the issue is the wear of the CPG, when oil leaks into the combustion chamber and fuel into the engine crankcase, diluting the lubricant. If at the same time you observe that fuel consumption has increased, and the power of the internal combustion engine has decreased, the exhaust has become very smoky - these are all arguments that the blackening of the oil is due to a problem with the engine itself.

Another reason for the rapid blackening of oil in a diesel unit is its overheating , when under the influence of constantly high temperatures (driving at high speeds, aggressive driving, etc.) the oil literally boils.

The oil may also overheat due to incorrectly selected viscosity characteristics.

In any case, the black oil needs to be changed as soon as possible (preferably together with flushing the diesel engine), and in case of problems with the CPG, diagnostics must be carried out. It may be necessary to decarbonize piston rings clogged with carbon deposits, replace them, or even overhaul the engine.

Why does the oil in a diesel engine thicken?

Typically, oil thickens in the cold - especially mineral or inexpensive semi-synthetic. Normally, after starting the engine “cold”, it circulates a little worse through the engine lubrication system, but after a couple of seconds it liquefies and operates as usual. This thickening of the oil is normal.

But if the oil in a diesel engine has become almost solid oil, and at the same time it is selected correctly (in terms of viscosity and temperature conditions of the internal combustion engine), you need to understand the reasons.

The most commonplace is that the oil has “worked out” , accumulated a lot of deposits and soot and turned into a gel. Moreover, liquefaction does not occur even after the engine warms up. As a result of the circulation of such a gel through the engine lubrication system, severe wear of all parts occurs, noises and knocks appear, and the engine may even jam.

Another possible reason why the oil has become like solid oil is engine overheating when polymerization of the lubricant occurs. That is, the gluing of components - the oil literally “curdles” due to extreme temperatures.

Finally, the oil can thicken because the owner is keen on experimenting with mixing different oils and using viscosity additives, which seem to protect the oil from liquefaction. And in some cases, such experiments lead to the oil becoming too thick.

Why did the engine oil become too thin?

If the oil is literally dripping from the dipstick because it has become very thin, it is either very old, or the engine has overheated and the viscous components have broken down into particles.

Another reason why the engine oil has become very thin is that excess fuel from the combustion chamber enters the engine crankcase. This leads to an increase in the level of lubrication, among other things.

Also, incorrect use of flushing agents for diesel internal combustion engines can lead to the fact that the flushing residues mix with the oil and dilute it. If you use flushing oils and liquids, it is better to reduce the interval for the next lubricant change by 30-50%.

Why might oil foam?

The most common reason for oil foaming is its overfilling, that is, exceeding the permissible level . Overfilling harms the motor, and this needs to be corrected by draining the excess lubricant. This can be done at a service station or on your own.

Another reason why the oil foams is the incompatibility of the oil that was inside the engine (and it does not completely leave the lubrication system even after draining) and the new oil that was added to the level. This usually happens when synthetic oil is added to mineral oil, and vice versa. Such mixing worsens the properties of both oils. Precipitation may form and foam may appear.

In this case, you need to completely drain the oil, wash the engine and add one of the following in full.

In the worst case, the oil foams because coolant has gotten into it . Antifreeze can get into the lubricant through a worn gasket between the cylinder head and the cylinder block, through cracks in the cylinder head and cylinder head.

To make sure that it is indeed the oil that has foamed due to the presence of coolant, you need to check the liquid itself: drops of oil will confirm the theory, and also apply a sheet of paper to the exhaust pipe after the engine has warmed up a little. After drying, the sheet needs to be examined: if antifreeze stains remain on it, the theory about coolant getting into the oil is correct.

And the dense white smoke from the exhaust pipe also confirms the assumption.

Self-diagnosis

The primary diagnosis is to check the antifreeze level in the expansion tank. Testing is carried out after the power unit has cooled, since the heated fluid increases in volume. A drop in level indicates antifreeze leakage into the internal cavities of the engine. In hot weather, a small amount of liquid evaporates naturally. The composition of the antifreeze is also analyzed: it should not contain rainbow oil stains.

If stains are detected, it is necessary to start the engine and visually monitor the condition of the fluid in the tank. If there is damage to the gasket or metal parts, the gases under pressure squeeze the lubricant into the reservoir. Gas bubbles appear on the surface of the antifreeze, which leave spreading drops of oil on the surface. The antifreeze that gets into the cylinders burns, resulting in a running engine that smokes (the flow of exhaust gases is white and smells like coolant).

Then you should drain the engine oil from the power plant sump into a clean container. The engine is preheated until the cooling fan operates. If water-based liquid gets into the lubricant, it will be visible in the container as spots of emulsion or a thickened substance.

Additional diagnostics include checking the crankcase ventilation system, where condensation accumulates. If the system breaks down, excess pressure is created inside the engine, which leads to the sedimentation of an emulsion with the smell of fuel on the oil filler cap.

Causes

As a rule, the driver becomes aware of a problem such as engine oil in the coolant expansion tank when he decides to check the level of antifreeze in the system. There may be oil residues on the neck, and the coolant itself may change its color or consistency. In addition, the refrigerant may develop a relatively unpleasant odor.

Engine lubricant enters the expansion tank with antifreeze

One way or another, you need to keep in mind that mixing lubricant and refrigerant is a very bad sign for the vehicle owner. Both consumables circulate through systems isolated from each other. Moreover, they are sealed, so mixing liquids should at least alert the driver. If consumables are mixed with each other, this means that the systems are no longer sealed, which can cause engine fluid to leak.

The most likely and common reason for the mixing of consumables, in particular the ingress of engine fluid, can be:

• occurrence of mechanical damage to the operation of the oil radiator or oil cooler;
• malfunction of the cylinder head (the block gasket has expired);
• The heat exchanger (oil cooler) gasket has exhausted its service life.

It should be noted here that it is at these points that the lubrication and cooling systems come into contact with each other. In an oil cooler, such contact is explained directly by the purpose of the device. In some vehicles, the engine fluid simply must be maintained at a certain temperature, as a result of which the vehicles are equipped with an oil cooler. The latter, in turn, directly interacts with the vehicle’s cooling system, where the refrigerant acts as a coolant.

Consequences of using poor-quality coolant

In addition, one of the important reasons is the inconsistency of the refrigerants that the driver pours into the system of his car. For example, the driver detected that the refrigerant level in the expansion tank was too low and found no other way out but to pour the first available antifreeze into the system. As you know, antifreeze manufacturers can use various additives in their products. If these substances are incompatible with each other, then when heated by the engine, they enter into a chemical reaction with each other.

Torn and expired oil cooler gasket

What threatens the appearance of an emulsion?

Having turned into a water emulsion, the oil completely loses all its carefully balanced properties. Left without lubrication, the parts will instantly go into semi-dry friction mode, local overheating will begin, metal destruction will begin, and the motor will be irreversibly damaged.

The most heavily loaded main and connecting rod bearings of the crankshaft will suffer first. They work with small gaps filled with an oil film under significant pressure.

Water does not have the strength of this film, so metal will work on metal, which will instantly release a large amount of heat, the liners will partially melt and rotate in the shaft beds. This is enough to jam and stop the engine, accompanied by strong knocking.

What is the danger

It all depends on the amount of “mayonnaise” mass and the reasons for its appearance. If there is not a lot of emulsion foam, and it was formed as a result of natural processes, then the motor system cannot suffer from this. The vapors formed as a result of the condensation process will be pumped out through the crankcase ventilation hose after 40-50 km and moved into the manifold cavity.

If antifreeze penetrates the oil, this will lead to a decrease in its lubricating properties, which indicates the need for its complete replacement. If this is not done, then scuffing may appear on the cylinders, the crankshaft liners will receive significant damage, which in turn will lead to malfunction of the timing system components.

In winter, the working fluid may even crystallize. The appearance of a film between the contacting parts of the mechanism, which vaguely resembles a lubricant, threatens to jam the motor.

If antifreeze begins to enter the cylinders of a running engine, this can lead to a pressure surge in the system. This causes deformation of the connecting rod. Piston fragments will damage the surfaces of the cylinder and combustion chamber. And if they fall into the crankcase, then damage to the crankshaft or even a broken connecting rod cannot be avoided, which in this case may well pierce the crankcase wall. After this, the propulsion system will have to undergo serious repairs, and it will not be possible to do without replacing some components.

How does the emulsion appear?

An oil emulsion in an engine can form for various reasons, but there is one reason that unites all sub-reasons - moisture has somehow gotten into the oil. But there can be many reasons for its appearance, most often this happens due to:

• holes in the gasket lying between the cylinder head (cylinder head) and the block;
• deformed cylinder head;
• cracked head or block;
• accumulation of condensate in the crankcase;
• water entering the crankcase through the cylinders.

None of these reasons can be said to be considered insignificant. All of them will lead to breakdowns one way or another. Therefore, checking the oil for emulsion formation should be done on a regular basis. Any appearance of whitish or foamy deposits on the dipstick or cap will mean that there is moisture in the oil.

White slime on the oil filler cap, what is it and is it dangerous for the car?

The appearance of a white substance on the oil filler cap causes concern among many drivers. In some cases, it is quite justified, since a similar phenomenon is observed when serious problems arise in the operation of the power plant. The mixture is whipped to a foamy state either by the engine components or by mixing oil with water in the crankcase ventilation system. Why is white mucus dangerous?

If the white coating appears due to water, then there is no need to worry. It is much more dangerous if it is present on the dipstick. The presence of an aqueous emulsion instead of pure oil is fraught with destruction of the crank block, which is due to insufficient cooling and increased friction of parts. In addition, the pump is not able to provide the pressure necessary to ensure lubrication of other elements.

Reasons for the formation of white plaque

• A negative external temperature may act as a provoking factor, due to which condensation appears in the crankcase. When heated, moisture evaporates and vapors are released, mixing with oil in the crankcase space. During a long trip, water molecules evaporate and the mucus disappears, leaving behind only oily traces. This picture periodically forms in cold autumn, early spring and winter, but it is not able to harm the engine due to the involvement of minor foreign inclusions in the lubrication process. The phenomenon is most often observed in winter, when moisture covers all cooled surfaces that do not have time to warm up quickly, which is typical for short-distance trips. To verify the validity of this version, you need to drive a long distance of 70 km and check the cover again. If the defect has disappeared, then the engine is not in danger.
• The formation of an emulsion may indicate low-quality oil that has contained antifreeze or any other immiscible liquid. An antifreeze leak can be determined by a decrease in its level in the tank and an increase in the amount of oil in the pan.

• The answer may lie in the destruction of the cylinder head gasket, which occurred due to a manufacturing defect, which is extremely rare. Violation of the tightness of the cylindrical block due to deformation of the seals, poor-quality processing of the rolling planes or loose bolts leads to coolant entering the oil system and overheating of the engine. In the event of a gasket breakdown, the coolant is found not only in the lubrication system, but also in the combustion chamber, passing through which it settles on the exhaust pipe in the form of sweet drops of condensate, clearly visible when the engine is cold.
• This could be a crack in the crankcase itself or the head, which cannot be repaired. Parts will have to be replaced.

Having made sure that the appearance of white mucus is not associated with moisture condensation, the search for other sources must begin by examining easily accessible aggregates. First of all, you need to inspect the oil exchanger to see if there are any leaks or fogging on it. In the initial stage, the problem is solved by flushing the engine and repeatedly changing the oil. For this purpose, it is recommended to opt for an inexpensive product with a mineral base, since it will still have to be quickly removed. In this case, if the drained liquid is completely in a foamed state, then a complete disassembly of the power plant, cleaning or replacing the oil nozzles, purging the crankshaft lubrication channels, and checking the gaskets will be required. A flaw may lead to the need for major engine repairs.

Before traveling, you need to record the antifreeze level. If, after the engine has completely cooled down, no drop is noticed, then the reason does not lie in the loss of tightness. Otherwise, you should determine the place where the liquid is leaking.

Accurate diagnostics can only be carried out on a pressed stand, which will demonstrate the condition of the channels and lenses. At the same time, you need to make sure that the piston heads are intact and the spark plugs are in working condition. If there are no defects, then the elements will be completely clean.

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Topic: emulsion on the dipstick and oil filler caps. HELP

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  Lupo

  Registration 05/25/2005 Address Russia, Petrozavodsk Age 43 Messages 187

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  emulsion on the dipstick and oil filler caps. HELP

  Today, after the frost, I climbed under the hood, I looked at the coolant loss, I opened the oil filler cap and it had a white coating on it.

  and on the dipstick too.

  I understand that I was in for repairs!

  1) Is it impossible to drive at all? (I don’t really know when this happened and how long I’ve been driving like this)

  2) If you change the oil and rinse it at the first stage! is it possible to travel until the repair?

  3) What could be the consequences of this problem?

  To all Peppers - Pepper Club!

  Registration 04/13/2005 Address Russia, Moscow, South-Western Administrative District Age 54 Messages 22,541

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  GAN

  It's better not to go. If the coolant is gone and there is emulsion in the crankcase, the head gasket is broken! ..the consequences of driving are not good: lubrication will be bad. or rather, not at all as it should be.

  ..solution to the problem: go to the service center, replace the cylinder head gasket, drain the oil emulsion, flush, change the oil.. generally not very scary.. but definitely necessary.

  Polo

  Registration 04/27/2005 Address Russia, Stavropol Age 50 Messages 436

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  GAN

  1. You can’t drive, then it will take a long time to wash it 2. It won’t help 3. Disassemble the entire engine and wash (clean) the oil. channels.

  If it’s fresh, you can find and replace the leaky gasket.

  Phaeton

  Registration 03/16/2005 Address Russia, Moscow, Eastern Administrative District Age 50 Messages 3,097

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  Received: 57 Sent: 48

  1) It is advisable not to drive, because oil with antifreeze is not good. 2) You will ruin the new oil. At least tighten the head bolts, and then try adding new oil.

  3) Wear of the motor, up to its jamming. Look for the cause of the leak. It may be enough to tighten the head bolts, but most likely the head gasket will need to be replaced.

  Golf

  Registration 11/29/2005 Address Russia, Ufa Age 43 Messages 911

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  Received: 5 Sent: 1

  So you started it and how far did you drive? if less than 50 km, then the flight time will be in any case and on any car, because this is condensation. But if you drove more, then OH!

  To all Peppers - Pepper Club!

  Registration 10/06/2004 Address Russia, St. Petersburg Age 53 Messages 20,998

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  Received: 2,975 Sent: 376

  If there is antifreeze in the crankcase, then there is no need to wash anything and add oil, then look. First eliminate the cause. Change the gasket (if there are no cracks)

  Passat

  Registration 11/26/2004 Address Russia, Cherepovets Age 54 Messages 1,687

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  GAN

  , stop getting upset
  . The coolant could escape through the connection of the pipes. And the white coating may be condensation that has settled in the cold. Take out the dipstick and look carefully to see if there are any droplets in the oil itself. If not, most likely as I said. Add coolant and ride. If there is, then it’s worse, the car is on a tie for service

  To all Peppers - Pepper Club!

  Registration 10/06/2004 Address Russia, Moscow, South-Western Administrative District Posts 9,907

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  GAN

  There’s no way you can decide remotely. BUT

  Maybe it's not an emulsion at all? but the coolant has gone and not into the oil at all! Did it just shrink because of the cold? And “emulsion” is condensation from frost.

  If the oil level has not risen, then there is probably nothing wrong. IMHO

  To all Peppers - Pepper Club!

  Registration 04/13/2005 Address Russia, Moscow, South-Western Administrative District Age 54 Messages 22,541

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  Men - read the first post - what condensation can be on the dipstick. if it is dipped in oil. and the emulsion is easily distinguishable from condensate.

  ..there is no need to disassemble and scrub the motor. if it is an emulsion, it is enough to eliminate the cause (replace the cylinder head gasket) and then flush the engine.

  ..unless he himself is confusing something. sorry.

  Golf

  Registration 04/27/2005 Address Ekaterinburg Age 42 Messages 712

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  1967s

  Explain, dear friend, why every third person has such a problem, is it cold?

  Noble Pepper of the VW Passat B5 Club!

  Registration 12/24/2005 Address Russia, Moscow, South-Western Administrative District Age 47 Messages 7,921

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  Sometimes when coolant gets into the oil, the reverse process occurs, i.e. oil getting into the coolant. Let me explain: where the pressure is less, that’s where it gets. At different engine temperatures, both of these processes can occur.

  I think it would be a good idea to look into the coolant reservoir and see if there is an oil floating spot there.

  If there are no abundant external coolant leaks, then unfortunately the head will have to be removed. And then you need to inspect the gasket very carefully. God grant that we see the real cause of the malfunction there. If the gasket is “virgin”, then after a careful visual inspection of the head and block, if nothing is visible to the eye, pressure testing follows - then everything will be completely clear.

  Once you remove the head, change the caps, polish the valves and casting - there will be no harm, you can also give up the rings if you have doubts about them.

  To all Peppers - Pepper Club!

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  PV

  well, about every third person - this is probably an exaggeration... because droplets of condensation on the neck cover and oil emulsion on the dipstick are a huge difference.

  ..somehow I haven’t seen any posts here yet with topics about emulsion on the dipstick. In any case, this is the first topic during the frosts.

How to flush the engine from emulsion, dirt and deposits

It is quite obvious that if you need to wash the engine from the inside, then you need a good engine flush. There are a large number of different formulations on sale.

In practice, all products can be divided into two groups:

However, choosing the best engine flush product is not so easy. First of all, you need to proceed from the specific situation. If you just need to flush the lubrication system before changing the oil, and we are not talking about removing remnants of an emulsion or counterfeit product, then a regular “five-minute” may be quite enough.

It should also be remembered that quick flushes in oil can also have a negative effect on gaskets, seals and other seals. There have been cases where, after applying oil flushes, the engine began to leak.

In case of more serious contamination, it is better to use ready-made flushing oils, which are poured into the engine in full instead of base oil. Depending on the type of flushing composition, the unit should either operate only at idle speed, or short-term driving with minimal loads on the internal combustion engine is allowed.

This type of washing is less aggressive to rubber seals compared to “five-minute” ones, and also more thoroughly washes away dirt and deposits. We also note that flushing oils can be synthetic, semi-synthetic or mineral, and are also universal. In other words, they can be used in both gasoline and diesel internal combustion engines.

In practice, this solution can be considered optimal for flushing the engine from emulsion after antifreeze or antifreeze gets into the lubrication system. Flushing oils are also better suited for cleaning dirty internal combustion engines with high mileage.

At the same time, the risk of “clogging” the channels and filters (for example, in hydraulic compensators, the oil receiver mesh) with soggy dirt is still present, but it is not as high as compared to a quick rinse in engine oil.

What's the result?

As you can see, the main cause of the emulsion on the dipstick and oil filler cap is the working fluid of the cooling system. In such a situation, it is recommended to stop operating the internal combustion engine and carry out repairs immediately.

After diagnostics, you can accurately verify the severity of the problem, as well as the possibility or impossibility of repairing detected cracks in the block or cylinder head. In any case, before carrying out the inspection, you should not hastily decide on the need to replace damaged elements.

It may also be necessary to slightly shorten the subsequent service interval. With the onset of heat, the problem may disappear on its own, since the car will not be subject to significant temperature changes, and excess moisture will be eliminated from the engine along with replacing the lubricant.

Why is antifreeze getting into the engine oil a serious problem? What consequences may arise for the internal combustion engine after driving on a mixture of coolant and oil.

Foaming of engine oil in the engine: in what cases and why is this dangerous for the engine. Main causes of malfunction, diagnostics.

Engine flushing oil: in what cases and how it is used, what is included in the composition, advantages and disadvantages of this type of flushing of the lubrication system.

Why do antifreeze or antifreeze enter the engine cylinders and what to do in such a situation. How to determine the presence of antifreeze in the cylinders yourself, repair methods.

Features and types of flushing oils, how to use them. In what cases should you use flushing oil, what brand and type of flushing is best to choose.

Means and methods for flushing the engine before changing engine oil. Is it necessary to flush the engine, with what compounds and in what cases is it necessary?

What to do if there is emulsion in the engine

When emulsion appears on the engine cover or on the dipstick, the first thing to do is perform a series of simple checks that will allow you to determine the severity of the cause. It's easy to do. After starting, you need to warm up the engine to an operating temperature of about +80°C...+90°C and drive the car in normal mode (you can let it burn a little) for at least 10...15 kilometers, and preferably a little more. And then look at the oil filler cap and dipstick again.

Please note that the cap itself and the oil in the engine will be very hot, so you need to unscrew the cap carefully! It's better to wait a few minutes for the temperature to drop a little. Foam emulsion inside the engine that needs to be removed. Foam emulsion inside the engine that needs to be removed

Foam emulsion inside the engine that needs to be removed

If, as a result of the check, it turns out that the emulsion has disappeared, then there is no need to worry, and you can continue to drive the car. To ensure that an emulsion does not form in winter or in the off-season, special anti-emulsion additives (demulsifiers) are sometimes used. They work on the principle of forming a chemical reaction, the result of which is getting rid of foam. Another good preventative option is to use engine insulation.

When the emulsion on the engine cover has not disappeared, and maybe even increased, this means that you need to check the engine oil and cooling systems for depressurization. At the same time, it is recommended to check the antifreeze level in the expansion tank of the cooling system. If it regularly decreases, then this directly indicates that it “goes” into the oil. In this case, it is not recommended to use the machine until all diagnostic and repair measures have been completed!

White foam on engine dipstick

An emulsion in the oil system that is not worth worrying about occurs only on the cap and neck, rarely on the top of the dipstick, in the off-season and in cool weather during short trips. If it’s hot outside, or “mayonnaise” has formed on the valve cover and is noticeable inside the internal combustion engine, or the control dipstick is completely in such an emulsion, it’s worth looking for the reasons.

It is not difficult to notice this condition of the oil - it is enough to check the oil level often, and not just when the oil light comes on! Other signs of emulsion in the engine, such as increased temperature, will not be needed.

Causes of emulsion in the engine

The main reason why an emulsion forms in the engine and on the inner surface of the oil filler cap is moisture getting into the oil. The more it is, the more severe the consequences. He can get there for two reasons:

• in the form of evaporating condensate from the internal walls of the engine;
• due to depressurization of the oil system or cooling system.

Table of reasons for the appearance of emulsion and methods for eliminating it.

Condensation from the air

When it is just condensation in the engine, the emulsion usually forms only on the cap and the edges of the engine filler neck. There should be no beige foam in the oil itself. Such an emulsion is formed due to a temperature difference when moisture, evaporating, settles on the neck cover, and during intensive engine operation mixes with oil droplets. If the trip is short (up to 10 minutes), then it will not have time to disappear. You can drive with condensation in the engine without fear. This condensate evaporates 15 minutes after the engine warms up to operating temperature. If the car is constantly used for short trips, then the emulsion will be on the lid almost constantly.

Reasons for the formation of emulsion

How does water get into the engine?

Water enters the engine in a gaseous state along with the moist air entering the engine, after which it condenses into a liquid state due to the temperature difference. This is why “condensation emulsion” most often appears in cold weather (autumn, winter, spring).

How and when does a “condensate emulsion” form?

The formation of “condensate emulsion” begins with the crankcase ventilation system.

When the engine is running, hot gases containing moisture (water vapor) are formed in the crankcase. After complete combustion of hydrocarbon fuel, end products are formed in the form of carbon dioxide and water vapor, which are crankcase gases. Subsequently, it is the water vapor that condenses (turns into a liquid state), coming into contact with the cold valve cover and other cold engine elements. After turning into a liquid state, the water mixes with the oil, which leads to the formation of an emulsion.

As a rule, in winter the engine often does not warm up completely, especially when driving short distances. For example, when the owner of a car drives it only to his place of work, which is only a few kilometers away. Accordingly, the engine, which has been in the cold all night, does not have time to warm up well, since it does not work for long. It is under such operating conditions in a cold engine that the emulsion begins to form in large quantities.

Important! “Condensate emulsion” only on the oil filler cap (without a layer of emulsion on the oil dipstick) is not dangerous for the engine! This is just a consequence of short and short trips in cold weather. It will be enough to clean the cap from the emulsion and regularly check the condition of the oil

In this situation, it should be remembered that it is not the “condensate emulsion” that causes damage to the engine, but short trips over short distances in cold weather. If the engine does not have time to warm up to operating temperature, then rapid wear of its parts will occur. Therefore, if the vehicle is used frequently for short periods of time, it is recommended to change the engine oil more frequently or reduce the number of short trips.

How and why emulsion appears in the engine

An article about the causes and consequences of the appearance of emulsion in a car engine - what it is and how to deal with it. At the end of the article there is a video about the emulsion in a car engine. An article about the causes and consequences of the appearance of emulsion in a car engine - what it is and how to deal with it. At the end of the article there is a video about the emulsion in a car engine.

During the next maintenance or inspection of the engine, many drivers are surprised to discover under the oil filler cap or on the oil dipstick a white-brown substance that looks like cream or foam. This substance is called “emulsion”, it indicates the presence of foreign impurities in the oil with which the oil was actively mixed.

As practice shows, in most cases the concern turns out to be in vain, although in some cases the appearance of an emulsion may be the result of a serious problem. Next, we will look at how and why emulsion forms, as well as how to identify possible problems associated with its appearance.

How to diagnose a malfunction?

It is better to start diagnostics by checking the coolant level. If the antifreeze level drops without obvious reasons, this may indicate a cylinder head malfunction or a gasket failure. In the second case, the engine runs unevenly, and antifreeze leaves the cooling system.

To check the oil for the presence of coolant, it must be drained into a clean container. The engine should be warmed up as the oil should be warm.

Pay attention to what the working fluid looks like. In the heated oil, traces of coolant will be clearly visible, which, as it cools, turns into an emulsion. If antifreeze is diluted with water, most of it is concentrated at the bottom of the crankcase and is drawn into the oil receiver

There may be no traces of emulsion on the dipstick, but you cannot drive such a car, as the viscous substance will clog the lubrication channels. The consequence may be failure of the engine valve or connecting rod bearings

If antifreeze is diluted with water, the bulk of it is concentrated at the bottom of the crankcase and is drawn into the oil receiver. There may be no traces of emulsion on the dipstick, but you cannot drive such a car, as the viscous substance will clog the lubrication channels. The consequence may be failure of the engine valve or connecting rod bearings.

The appearance of an emulsion on the neck cover indicates the destruction of the cylinder head gasket. Confirmation of gasket wear will be the leakage of working fluid from the tank. When inspecting the power unit, check the junction of the BC and cylinder head. The presence of smudges in this place will confirm an oil leak.

If thick white smoke comes out of the exhaust pipe, this is evidence of coolant getting into the engine elements. This is true for all types of power units. However, for diesel engines the coolant enters the manifold, and for gasoline engines it enters the cylinders.

How to determine antifreeze in oil

Many, especially novice, car enthusiasts are interested in the question of how to find out that antifreeze has entered the oil system of the car’s engine. In fact, there are a number of typical signs by the presence of which one can judge the occurrence of this malfunction. Among them:

• At the neck under the lid, an emulsion of oil and antifreeze appears, usually white or yellowish in color, similar in appearance to cream (sour cream, mayonnaise). Accordingly, the more antifreeze or antifreeze that has leaked into the oil system, the more such a mixture will be in its composition. It is not difficult to check the presence of an emulsion; to do this, you just need to look at the condition of the engine oil on the dipstick. There will be a similar emulsion on the oil filler neck, just open the cap.
• Drop in coolant level. This sign is indirect, since antifreeze can leave the system not into the oil, but simply into the engine compartment. Therefore, in this case, additional diagnostics are necessary.

• Engine overheating. This symptom is also indirect, since it can be caused by other problems. However, if antifreeze and oil are mixed, then, accordingly, the cooling and lubrication systems will stop working normally, which will also lead to rapid overheating of the engine, especially when it operates at significant loads (speeds).
• Presence of oil in antifreeze. As a rule, when one (or both) systems depressurizes, mutual mixing of these process fluids occurs. At the same time, the antifreeze turns black and begins to smell like burnt oil, and the cooling system does not work well. You can look at the condition of the antifreeze by opening the cap of the expansion tank of the cooling system.
• Decrease in engine power. This factor is a logical result of the deterioration of the cooling and lubrication systems. Often the motor “troits”. Additional diagnostics must be performed as other problems may be causing the loss of power.
• White smoke from the exhaust pipe. This is true for both gasoline and diesel engines, however, the reasons why this phenomenon is caused differ in the first and second cases. If white smoke comes out of the exhaust system, then there is antifreeze in the engine elements. For gasoline engines, the coolant enters the cylinders, and for diesel engines, it enters the manifold.
• The spark plugs will have a light tint (the color of burnt antifreeze). True, this is only an indirect sign; a number of other reasons will need to be considered.
• Air bubbles in the expansion tank of the cooling system. They can be seen through the transparent tank body or by opening the cap (at high engine speeds). The higher they are, the more air will escape from the system. This sign directly indicates depressurization of the system.
• Coolant leaks from under the cylinder head gasket onto the body of the unit itself. At the same time, regardless of their color, it is necessary to check the condition of the engine oil and antifreeze in the engine to ensure they are mixed with each other.

If a car owner encounters one or more of the symptoms listed above, then it makes sense to check the condition of the engine oil, coolant, and also perform additional diagnostics of individual engine parts, which will be discussed below.

What to do if there is an emulsion in the engine oil

If the symptoms indicate the formation of an emulsion from condensate, that is, there is little of it, then it is enough to warm up the engine under load and make sure that this deposit has disappeared.

But in the event of massive formation of white whipped oil and the absence of a clear level on the dipstick, the engine must be stopped immediately, without waiting for major breakdowns. This is usually accompanied by copious white smoke from the exhaust pipe.

Water evaporates intensely, enters through the crankcase ventilation or directly through the gasket into the cylinders, passes through the muffler, condenses again and forms clouds of steam behind the car.

To diagnose the cause, a pressure test of the cooling system is usually used to determine antifreeze leakage paths. After which, as a rule, the engine is disassembled and the entire set of damages is assessed.

If an emulsion is detected in the early stages, when the engine has not suffered critical malfunctions, it is possible that the problem can be eliminated without complete disassembly. It turns out that removing the head, checking its plane and replacing the gasket is sufficient. But the emulsion from the lubrication system must be completely removed.

To do this, the engine is flushed. Use regular flushing oil according to the instructions for use. It is better to do this at least twice, then fill with fresh engine oil and install a new filter.

Old engines could be flushed with a mixture of diesel fuel and engine oil. You can’t do this with modern ones, there is no safety margin, the effect will be no less dangerous than working on an emulsion. Diesel fuel, like water, does not provide the required viscosity and does not contain anti-friction additives.

Solutions to the problem

The longer you use a car with a similar problem, the higher the likelihood of serious breakdowns, the elimination of which will require much larger investments. It's worth remembering the following:

1. If the cause is a leak in the seal, then you need to remove the cylinder head and check it. In this case, you should immediately buy a gasket, since it will have to be replaced in any case. After disassembly, clean the junction of the elements and check each of them for cracks. If damage is detected, the part is either replaced or welded, if possible. Due to overheating, the plane of the cylinder head may be disrupted. In this case, it is sent for polishing. If the gasket is at fault, then it is simply replaced; the main thing is to tighten the fasteners correctly, following the diagram.
2. When using incompatible oils, it is necessary to fill in a new composition, selecting a suitable one from the catalog. But before this, it is best to additionally flush the engine and, if possible, blow it with compressed air. The better the internal cavities are cleaned, the less likely it is to disrupt the lubrication process. Usually, after carrying out the described actions, the problem disappears; the main thing is not to fill in different oils afterwards.
3. As for condensation, its occurrence can be practically eliminated through proper heating. In winter and after the machine has been idle for a long time (several weeks or more), it is necessary to heat the engine to operating temperature. If you do this constantly, excess moisture will evaporate and water will not get into the pan. It is insufficient heating that most often provokes the accumulation of water, as it enters the lubrication system day after day.

If you recently purchased a car and do not know how long ago the oil was filled and what brand it is, it is better to replace it immediately. This also applies to compliance with replacement periods; this is usually done after 8-10 thousand kilometers. But if the car drives little, it is better to change the lubricant to a fresh one at least once a year.

If oil foams on the dipstick, you need to deal with it as quickly as possible. Then work to fix the problem. Moreover, it is better to entrust the installation of a new cylinder head gasket and oil change to specialists, as they will do the job much faster and better.

Chemical incompatibility

It is necessary to add the same engine oil as was added during replacement. Mineral oil is in no way compatible with synthetic oil. This “mix” disrupts the structure of the liquid. This is due to the fact that in mineral oil the hydrocarbon molecules have a wide range in size, while in synthetic oil all the molecules are homogeneous.

Due to the different molecular sizes of mineral oil, it performs well under operating temperature changes. Thus, the viscosity, freezing temperature and level of lubrication of the rubbing elements by the liquid change.

As you know, oil is not completely homogeneous. It contains various additives. They vary depending on which area needs more lubricity to be added. It happens that the added additive begins to enter into a chemical reaction with the poured oil, which leads to the appearance of foam.

What measures should the driver take?

If diagnostics revealed a damaged cylinder head gasket, it should be replaced. To replace the gasket you will have to remove the head. After installing the gasket, it is better to tighten the mounting bolts using a torque wrench so that the specified tightening torque is not exceeded. If the cylinder head “leads”, the problem can only be solved by turning it on a machine. It is better to entrust this work to specialists.

If the heat exchanger is damaged, it is sealed, if, of course, this is possible. If not, the heat exchanger is changed. If errors were made when connecting the main line of the cooling system, all pipes will have to be disconnected and reconnected.

If the BC is damaged, the unit will have to be dismantled. At the same time, the block is bored and sleeved.

If coolant leaks are detected in the pipes and connections, the leak must be eliminated. Then you will have to change the engine oil and antifreeze, after flushing the cooling system. Such leaks are diagnosed when the engine is running at high speeds. The liquid will flow out under pressure, and finding the leak will not be difficult.

Engine oil and the engine itself should be checked as often as possible. This is the only way to prevent serious damage.

When inspecting and diagnosing the engine, many car owners are faced with the presence of a whitish coating on the oil filler cap and the oil level dipstick.

What it is?

The basis of all modern motor oils is hydrocarbons. The combustion of fuel leads to the appearance of various substances: acid, various types of peroxides, moisture, etc. Their mixing in the hydrocarbon leads to the formation of an emulsion mass that settles on the oil filler cap and the dipstick for measuring it. Its adhesion to these areas is due to the fact that they are the coldest. The structure of the white emulsion is an abundance of microscopic bubbles. Its appearance is an alarming sign indicating the need for diagnostics of the power unit.

Details about the appearance of the emulsion

The problem of the appearance of a white mass on the neck cover especially concerns cars parked on the street. But it may also affect cars in the garage. If you regularly leave your car outside, it will be exposed to the weather. In autumn it often rains, and moisture may well accumulate in the crankcase cavity. In winter, “mayonnaise” can be observed even more often.

Another reason for the formation of white mass is frequent driving over short distances. During such trips, the engine does not have time to warm up, which leads to the formation of condensation. It follows from this that in winter the engine must be well warmed up before driving.

If the crankcase ventilation system is clogged, the accumulated gas will look for other places to escape, which will also lead to the appearance of an emulsion. In this case, there is no need to change the oil, you just need to clean the ventilation. It is much more dangerous if motor oil is mixed with antifreeze, as this leads to serious engine damage.

What else can be said about this?

The reason for this phenomenon may also be operating conditions. Very often, foam appears on the dipstick in winter or when it gets cold. This is caused by the fact that condensation forms when a heated car cools. When the engine is hot, moisture vapor entering the oil evaporates and then condenses on the cover, for example, as shown in the photo.

Often, such condensation, in addition to the lid, also appears on the dipstick. Another reason for the formation of such muck may be bad oil. When using a good, non-scorched product, this does not happen.

The consolation is that this only occurs in winter and disappears when the weather gets warmer. Usually this phenomenon does not pose a direct danger to the engine and does not require emergency measures. However, it is necessary to carefully monitor the levels of lubricant and antifreeze; it is quite possible that what is happening is only a harbinger of a breakdown of the cylinder head gasket.

What does it mean when a white emulsion is found on the dipstick?

In this case, you need to remove the cylinder head and replace the gasket. This cannot be ignored. In this case, failure to replace the gasket in time can lead to serious consequences. Foam in the oil indicates that the performance of the oil has seriously deteriorated. Because of this, the quality characteristics will also decrease, that is, the components will not receive enough lubrication, and the risk of overheating of the components will increase, as a result of which they then fail.

The worst case scenario is an engine wedge. In this case, major repairs will have to be made; it will cost a couple of tens of thousands. It is possible that the reason is that the oil itself is of poor quality. Then you will need to drain the old oil, thoroughly rinse the engine and fill it with something of higher quality. If the reason for the appearance of foam is the formation of condensation, then you need to wait until the weather becomes warmer outside.

The oil level and lubrication condition must be treated with extreme care. However, you shouldn’t panic when an emulsion appears on the dipstick. You just need to check it yourself, taking into account the above recommendations. A fault found in time is much easier to fix than a fault that is neglected.

White deposits on the oil dipstick

One of the problems with moisture getting into the oil system is a white emulsion under the oil cap; when coolant gets in, exactly the same light “scale” appears.

Will help eliminate moisture in both the oil and fuel systems

2) Fuel Line , it binds moisture and cleans the entire system.

Mix one part of Fuel Line Cleaner (in equal proportions), add the mixture to the engine, let it run for 20 minutes, then drain the old oil and replace it with new one.

It is also recommended to remove moisture from the fuel system by adding Fuel Line Cleaner to the fuel tank, which will bind moisture to the fuel, dissolve all tar and coke deposits along the entire fuel path, clean the injectors, fuel lines, filter and fuel pump.

As a result you will get:

• The fuel system (including the pump, filter, fuel tank, spray nozzles and fuel lines) is free of moisture, acids and resins.
• Absolutely clean (no coking residues) oil recirculation system
• Normalized oil and fuel consumption
• Stable running engine
• Protected components of the most important systems (oil and fuel) of the car
• Improved power performance
• Increased efficiency

Condensation has appeared

If water enters the lubricating system, then the oil completely changes its properties. The oil will not be able to dissolve without a residue, but with prolonged mixing, an emulsion can form. This is the kind of liquid the driver detects on the dipstick. Even if the oil has just been changed, the water that gets in will completely change its properties.

Don't be afraid that there is a leak somewhere. Water in the cylinders may appear from the air. And that's a fact. If the ambient temperature has a large difference with the temperature of the metal parts of the engine, then condensation may settle on the cylinder walls. Typically, this phenomenon can be encountered in the fall or winter, when the car is parked on the street. Water condenses on the metal and flows into the crankcase, where it mixes with the oil. The result is foam.

In order to somehow overcome this problem, you need to warm up the engine thoroughly and for a long time in the winter. Then the water will simply evaporate. Experts also recommend insulating the engine to quickly warm it up in the morning.

How to deal with “condensation emulsion”

To avoid the formation of a “condensate emulsion”, it is enough to follow a few simple rules and recommendations:

You should not warm up the engine for a long time while parked, since at idle the crankcase ventilation system is almost not activated. Moreover, fully warming up the engine to operating temperature in cold weather takes a lot of time. It is recommended to leave the parking lot after 5–8 minutes of warming up. This is exactly how long it will take to clear the snow from your car. We cleared the car of snow and drove off. When driving (at gentle speeds), the unit will heat up to operating temperature much faster and better.

As mentioned above, it is advisable to reduce the number of short trips during which the engine does not have time to warm up to operating temperature.

Periodically take long trips to allow the engine to warm up well and run at high speeds to evaporate condensation.

Use additives for motor oils - demulsifiers (to break the emulsion).

Description of the problem

A dipstick is used to check the lubricant level in the engine crankcase. When the element is removed from the engine, a cloudy white or yellowish coating mixed with engine oil appears on the surface. A similar emulsion is formed on the inner surface of the plug installed in the hole for filling lubricant into the engine. The car owner needs to understand why the foreign deposit has formed.