VAZ 2109: starter malfunctions - looking for reasons | MasteraVAZa

Author: Ivan Baranov

Many owners of Russian-made cars are faced with the problem of the inability to start the car, and the reasons may be different. And quite often it happens that the VAZ 2109 does not start due to the fact that the car’s starter does not turn. You can learn more about this malfunction, as well as options for solving the problem, from this material.

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Popular causes of malfunction

The most common reasons account for about 95% of all cases where the starter does not turn. That’s why we pay attention to them first.

The starter does not turn differently in different situations. It is important to take this into account and clearly monitor all associated symptoms. So, even without the help of specialists, you will be able to return the unit to operation and resume normal operation of the ignition system

Bendix
Often, simply disassembling and cleaning the internal components of the starter can eliminate problems with its functionality. Therefore, after removing the device and not finding damaged elements inside it, try to thoroughly clean everything, assemble it and put it back in place. It is likely that the starter will start turning.

Starter and retractor

It was said above that the first thing to check is the solenoid relay. However, it is no less important to test the starter itself, especially if the above checks did not yield anything. The best remedy is to install a known working starter and check how everything works.

Thus, it becomes clear why the starter starts every other time. The reason for this is either the contacts, the fuses, or the starter itself.

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The starter does not turn over, what should I do?

In the life of owners of the VAZ-2114, and other cars close to this line (see above), sometimes such an unpleasant moment arises when you need to go somewhere, but it is not possible to start the power plant due to the fact that the starter does not turn the flywheel engine.

That is, when you turn the ignition key to the “start” position, nothing happens.

And if in the summer you can calmly look for the cause of the malfunction, then in the winter, in severe frost, you won’t spend much time searching for the malfunction. And in order to quickly fix a breakdown, you need to know where to look for it.

How to quickly start your car in cold weather, see below.

Individual situations

If the VAZ 21099 injector stops starting, you can try to close the contacts of the mechanism in a straight line.

But sometimes there are emergency situations when the device stops functioning, let’s consider a few of them:

1. The injection engine does not start in cold weather, but all devices work normally, the battery is charged. If there is no click, you should first diagnose the safety components, electrical circuit, and also the solenoid relay. If the device clicks, the relay must be replaced.
2. all day, there was a spark, but in the evening the engine stopped starting. Before, you need to fully charge the battery, and then clean the contacts both on the battery and on the mechanism itself. If these steps did not help solve the problem, you need to check the battery itself more carefully - try closing the contacts with a wire, which may cause a spark to melt. If this does not help, try applying a positive charge from the battery directly to the relay. If there are no changes, the unit will have to be replaced.
3. If the car was operated normally all day, but after parking for five minutes it stopped starting, you can try to close the mechanism. You need to directly close two bolts on the relay; if this helps, but later the problem reappears, then disassemble the unit completely. Most likely, the problem lies directly in the erasing of the brushes. In this case, they will need to be changed.
4. The unit does not turn at all, but the car can be started from the pushrod. If the problem is not with the starter, then check the fuse box and ignition switch. But before this, you should check the wiring - the reason may lie in the oxidation of the contacts.

A starter, without it you can’t start the car, which means you won’t go far. The success of the trip depends on its performance. Therefore, you need to figure out how to prevent its failure, or fix an existing breakdown. Let's take a closer look:

• Alarm Signals
• Malfunctions

Why is there no sound from the starter when I turn the key?

The design of the starter of any vehicle is a powerful electric motor, the power source of which is a car battery. Such an element is characterized by both mechanical damage caused by improper operation and natural wear of its component parts, as well as malfunctions associated with its electrical part. When no changes occur in the starting system of the power unit after turning the ignition key, the starter is silent, and its retractor relay does not make characteristic clicks, the following diagnostic measures must be carried out:

1. Measure the power supply voltage
2. Check the condition of the contacts in the ignition switch
3. Perform a performance test on the solenoid relay
4. Carry out diagnostics of the starter and its bendix

The condition of the lock contacts is checked by turning on the ignition using the key. The lighting of the indicators on the instrument panel is evidence of the working condition of the ignition switch, but if this does not happen, it is necessary to begin troubleshooting.

To check the battery, simply disconnect the negative terminal and measure the voltage of the power source using a voltmeter. If it is within 9V, the battery needs to be recharged, since its capacity is not enough to start the engine.

Clearly audible characteristic clicks in the area where the starter is located when starting the engine are produced by its traction relay. Note that the relay can click either when there is a fault in it or the starter itself, or when the power source is discharged, while the indicators on the instrument panel glow dimly or go out completely.

How to spin the starter directly - video with instructions

Many owners of used cars often complain about this defect. They need to know why the starter starts every other time, or why the starter rotates normally several times in a row, but on the fourth or fifth time there is zero emotion. Let's try to figure it out.

As a rule, in such cases it is recommended to replace the solenoid relay. However, this does not help in most cases, since the reason lies in a completely different plane.

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Radically disassembling the starter device, lubricating the internal elements, checking the bushings and other routine work related to testing the starter also does not help. What's the matter then?

A few clicks

The VAZ 2109 starter does not work when you hear several clicks after you insert the key into the ignition and turn it. However, these few clicks immediately notify the driver of the cause of the breakdown:

• The holding winding began to weakly fix the core;
• Your battery is dead;
• The terminals are loose.

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To start

charge the battery

, because it very often leads to the car not starting. If this does not help, then check the winding and terminals. Both parts can be replaced very easily if you have the slightest understanding of your car's design and mechanics. However, every driver must know such basic things, otherwise you will often get stuck in the middle of the road.

Answers to frequently asked questions

How can you tell if the starter relay is not working?

To determine whether the starter relay is working, apply power from the positive terminal of the battery directly to the control contact of the relay. After this, a click should sound; if it is faulty, there will be no sounds.

How to check whether the starter is working or not?

To check the serviceability of the starter itself, you need to apply current to it directly by connecting the power wires of the retractor relay (thick wire from the battery) and the electric motor (stud with a thick wire from the retractor to the starter). A working starter should start moving.

What to do if the starter does not work after turning the ignition key?

First, make sure there is voltage at the battery terminals. If you don’t have a tester, this can be done using a 12 V lamp. Then try to apply voltage directly to the starter: use a screwdriver to close the pin to which the wire from the battery goes and the control contact located nearby. If there is no reaction, check the quality of the contacts of the terminals on the battery, the ground contacts (with the body and the engine) and the contacts of the starter itself by cleaning and tightening the terminals. If the battery is discharged or the starter is faulty, you need to start the car with a pusher (manual transmission) or tow it to the repair site.

How to fix starter malfunctions with your own hands

The electrical component of the starter consists of the following structural elements:

• winding;
• brush assembly;
• solenoid relay.

When checking the solenoid relay, skip the starter operation, bypassing its switching. The relay has 3 terminals at once, one of which is the control terminal. The remaining 2 large terminals, located at the input to the battery and at the output of the starter, are closed using a screwdriver or wrench. Closing for a short period of time is enough, the main thing is that the tool you are using does not touch the metal body directly under the hood.

Observe the changes in the starter during the process of closing the terminals - if the device rotates, perhaps with a clearly audible crackling sound, then the fault is caused by the solenoid relay.

Remember that starting the engine in this way is prohibited, because the main gear of the device does not engage.

Most likely, the contact planes on the inner plane simply burned out, and therefore a dielectric layer of metal oxides formed on top. To burn the contacts, there is no need to make great efforts; just one start of the VAZ-2109 engine is enough.

There are 2 ways to repair the VAZ-2109 solenoid relay:

1. Dismantle the device and disassemble it into components, clean the contacts.
2. If it is financially possible, it is better to replace the relay completely. Practice shows that if a relay fails, the contacts will have to be cleaned more and more often to restore its operation. If you want the repaired relay to last a long time, give preference to this option for repairing the starter if the device does not spin or click.

Rare situations

They happen noticeably less frequently than those we described above. But under no circumstances should we exclude them.

After reviewing the situations below, compare them with the behavior of your starter and a car that has stopped turning or clicks but does not turn.

1. With an injection engine at a frosty temperature of about -20 degrees Celsius, all devices function. This indicates that the battery is fully charged. At the same time, for some reason the starter refuses to turn. Your actions:
   If there are no clicks when you try to start the engine, check the condition of the fuse, wiring and solenoid relay;
2. If there is a clicking noise, the most likely source of the problem is the solenoid relay. It must be replaced.

1. The engine started normally throughout the day, but in the evening it suddenly stopped working normally. When you turn the key in the ignition switch, there is only a click, but the starter does not turn. When you try to start the engine several times in a row, several clicks are heard. Your actions:
   Charge the battery;
2. Crimp, strip and tighten the contacts on the starter and battery;
3. If the first two points do not produce results, check the battery itself. To do this, the wire closes its contacts. If the battery is working properly, a spark will appear that melts the wire;
4. Connect the plus from the battery directly to the solenoid relay. If the starter is silent, replace the starter.

car battery

1. During the day the car started without problems. But after being idle for several minutes, attempts to start the car fail. When you turn the key, the relay is activated, but the starter stubbornly refuses to turn. By closing the two bolts of the solenoid relay, everything started. We reached our destination, stopped, and turned off the engine. When I try to start again, the same situation occurs. Just locking the bolts no longer works. Your actions:
   Disassemble the starter housing;
2. Check the condition of the brushes. There is a high probability that they have been completely erased. Hence this effect;
3. Replace the brushes with new ones. This is cheaper than completely replacing the unit.

1. The starter doesn't turn over. When you try to close it, only noise arises, like when a drill is working. The engine shows no signs of life. But it was possible to start it from the pushrod without any problems. Your actions:
   Make sure your starter is working properly;
2. If everything is fine with it, go to the mounting block and check the fuses;
3. Also examine the condition of the ignition switch. It is possible that the problem is with him;
4. Do not forget to check the wiring for breaks and short circuits;
5. Check the status of the contacts. It’s not uncommon that minus does not reach the starter relay only for the banal reason of oxidation or burnt wire.

Having understood the reasons for the failure of the starter, you can bring the device back to life on your own. Don't rush to throw away your old starter and buy a new one. The practice of VAZ 2109 owners shows that partial repairs, and sometimes even simple cleaning of the device, make it possible to restore the functionality of one of the main elements of the ignition system for a long time.

Starter device, principle of its operation

The starter of the VAZ-2114 car (factory index - 5712.3708) is a DC power electric motor, additionally equipped with an overrunning clutch with a gear (Bendix) and a retractor relay.

The principle of its operation is very simple: when the ignition is turned on, voltage is supplied to the solenoid relay. Due to the creation of a magnetic field in it, the armature connected to the plug is retracted.

This fork moves the bendix along the rotor shaft of the electric motor and engages the gear with the flywheel ring gear.

In this case, the armature, fully entering the relay, closes the contacts, and voltage is already supplied to the electric motor itself, which is switched on.

The task of the overrunning clutch is also to protect the electric motor. After starting the power plant, the rotation speed of the flywheel significantly exceeds the speed of the gear. It turns out the opposite effect - the flywheel turns the gear.

And so that the force is not transmitted back, after exceeding the speed of rotation of the electric motor, the gear begins to rotate freely on the shaft until the driver turns off the power to the retractor relay, after which the spring returns the bendix to its original position, disengaging the gear.

Read more: Car starter design.

VAZ 21099 carburetor does not start List of popular reasons and repair methods

• There is no voltage from the battery to the starter;
• Check the indicator on the battery; it should light green.
• If it is black or red, it means the charge is very low and you need to recharge the battery. 20-25 minutes are enough to start the engine;
• The degree of wear of the graphite rod on the distributor of the trampler has exceeded the permissible standards, as a result of which current does not flow to the first cylinder and the mixture cannot ignite;
• We unscrew the cover of the distributor and look at the rod, it is centered inside. The minimum length should be 1.0 cm or more, if less, replace the tamper cover. Due to the fact that the graphite rod does not reach the distributor, the current is not transmitted to the spark plugs and, accordingly, there is no ignition.
• The throttle valve is closed and air does not enter the working chambers of the carburetor;
• Check the tension of the choke cable. The air damper rod must be strictly vertical; all other positions may overlap it and become a barrier to air. Press out the bolt and straighten the rod.
• The fine filter of the fuel system is very dirty and does not allow gasoline to pass into the combustion chamber in the required quantity;
• Look at the filter color. If it is a rough orange color, it needs to be changed because it is clogged. The optimal color is light yellow.
• The coil on the ignition coil is damaged, causing the spark plugs to not receive the spark that is the source of ignition. See the article “How to test the ignition coil with a multimeter”;
• Proceed as follows: disconnect the positive cable on the battery, unscrew the top part of the ceramic block on the coil and you will see a metal spiral. If there is damage, the entire ceramic module must be replaced. There are no other options. It is strictly forbidden to use soldering, it will not help.
• The fuel and/or air jets are clogged and cannot transfer the mixture to the combustion chamber;
• You can only check by unscrewing the air filter cover and removing it along with the top carburetor cover. After unscrewing both types of jets, blow them with a stream of compressed air and screw them back in. There is no need to change.
• The line of the electrical cable that transmits current through the circuit is damaged;
• If you are not an electrician, then it will be difficult for you to determine which wire is damaged. Try only with the tester, starting from the ignition switch;
• There is no gasoline in the gas tank (for example, it was drained);
• The diaphragm in the fuel pump does not work or is damaged (see signs of a faulty fuel pump);
• Only by removing the top cover of the fuel pump can you understand the degree of integrity of the diaphragm. Replace if damaged.

• The cam on the fuel pump rod is damaged or severely worn, as a result of which the rocker rod does not touch it and fuel is not pumped into the system;
• In this case, it is necessary to change only the entire fuel pump as a whole. Once a cam wears out, it cannot be repaired.
• The air filter is clogged;
• The cylinder head is broken, and as a result, the compression level has dropped sharply and is not enough to ignite the mixture.

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Connection diagram

Now let's talk about how to connect the starter to the car's electrical network. Let's look at the connection diagram somewhat simplified.

Since the electric starter motor of the VAZ 2114 and other cars is a power motor, a significant amount of energy is consumed, which is supplied from the battery. Essentially, the device is the main consumer.

And to ensure maximum energy output, the battery and starter are connected directly to each other by a “positive” wire of a large cross-section.

This wire goes from the battery terminal to one of the solenoid relay terminals.

The second terminal of this relay is connected to the electric motor. To ensure that the electric motor runs only when needed, there is an open circuit between these terminals.

There is also another “positive” wire in the circuit, which goes from the battery to the ignition switch and is intended to power the auxiliary relay itself. Additionally, the circuit includes a mounting block and fuses.

Knowing the connection diagram, you can understand how everything works. By turning the key to the “start” position, the driver closes the relay power circuit and voltage is applied to its winding, resulting in the formation of a magnetic field that acts on the armature.

That, in turn, after moving, eliminates the circuit break between the relay contacts, and the energy is supplied to the electric motor.

Is the problem caused by the alarm?

A blocking relay can be installed in the starter circuit when installing an alarm system. And many alarms need to meet certain conditions in order to remove the blocking. The simplest thing: the on-board voltage must be greater than 11 Volts.

Alarm with blocking relay

Conclusion: the starter may not operate when cold if the battery is discharged and the car has an alarm system. So, we remove the battery, charge it and install it back.

Device

1. retaining ring
2. restrictor ring
3. overrunning clutch drive
4. lever axis
5. front cover
6. drive lever
7. armature relay
8. traction relay
9. back cover
10. protective cover
11. lock washer
12. pinch bolt
13. shim
14. brush spring
15. brush
16. frame
17. anchor

The starter on the “Nine” does not turn: we are looking for the cause and a way to eliminate it

Many owners of Russian-made cars are faced with the problem of the inability to start the car, and the reasons may be different. And quite often it happens that the VAZ 2109 does not start due to the fact that the car’s starter does not turn. You can learn more about this malfunction, as well as options for solving the problem, from this material.

How to charge the battery in a VAZ-2109

If the starter malfunction is due to lack of battery charge, start charging the device. To properly charge the battery, carry out the procedure in a ventilated room. It is not necessary to remove the unit from the car; the process can take place directly in the VAZ-2109. When charging the battery, follow these requirements:

1. Disconnect all electrical cables.
2. Immediately before charging, carefully clean the terminals from adhering dirt and dust, paying special attention to oxidized areas.
3. It is advisable to completely discharge the battery before charging - to do this, turn on all electrically powered devices.
4. Observe the movements of the ammeter needle; it should approach the zero mark.
5. Monitor the temperature of the electrolyte - it will increase during charging. For example, the temperature of the electrolyte has increased to 40 degrees, then the current should be halved. If within 2 hours the density of the electrolyte and the battery voltage in the VAZ-2109 remain unchanged, it means that the battery is fully charged.

Typically, 10-12 hours are enough to charge the battery. Please note that in the summer the electrolyte in the VAZ-2109 heats up at an accelerated pace, so the car owner’s task is to regularly check the density and level of the material.

Forced starting of the starter by closing the contacts

In order to put knowledge into practice, you will need the help of a partner (preferably) and a long screwdriver or wrench. The idea is that the metal base of the tool needs to close the power contacts of the starter and apply voltage to its winding directly.

Before starting work, it is extremely important to check the gear shift lever. It should be in a neutral position. The handbrake lever should be raised and locked as much as possible.

A spark may occur

Alternative methods (if there is no key)

In addition to this method, there are several more. One of them involves starting the starter from the passenger compartment. To do this, you will need to remove the plastic panel located under the steering wheel of the car. Separate the bundle of wires going to the ignition switch from it.

Disassembling the steering column mechanism

First of all, we are interested in the wire going to ground (black or green, sometimes yellow with a black stripe). You can correctly determine whether it is correct or not using a multimeter. To do this, the tip is connected to the one we are interested in, the second to the body of the machine. A zero on the device screen will confirm that this is the correct wire. Its stripped end is isolated and moved to the side.

Power on the VAZ-2114 car is supplied by a red or yellow wire, but it is best to check this with a multimeter.

The one responsible for the starter is determined as follows: the power wire is closed with the remaining ones. The one from which the mechanism will work and will be its supply wire.

The remaining beam is connected to the positive one, after which it is struck with the “starter” one. If determined correctly, the engine should start. It is extremely important when starting in this way, not to short-circuit the wires for a long time, as this will discharge very quickly.

Important! When starting the starter, the car must be in neutral and have the handbrake applied.

Push launch (classic)

The starter spins for a long time before starting

Safety block, wires, terminal blocks

The so-called black box of the motorist, in which fuses and relays are located, quite rightly comes into question in such situations. A short circuit or simply stagnation of contacts may occur in the block. Experienced motorists recommend not hitting the block too hard, this really helps.

If that doesn’t help, find the terminal blocks with the power wires and clean them thoroughly from oxides. Then carefully solder everything.

You can also test the ignition switch and clean the chips whose wires go to the starter. It is better to replace the nuts on the terminals with brass ones to make contact better.

It is important to check the armored wiring that goes directly from the battery to the starter and ground. Experts recommend paying attention to the terminal blocks that are screwed to the generator, because this is where the voltage enters the cabin.

It is highly recommended to purchase silicone aerosol for wires to improve the quality of contacts. They should treat all the areas and locations that were tested.

Starter bushings

Another reason could be worn copper-graphite bushings on which the rotor rests. One of them is pressed into the rear housing cover, where the brushes of the electric motor itself are located, and the front end of the rotor rests on a bushing, which is pressed into a hole in the clutch housing or in the starter housing itself, if the structure is closed.

The first option has almost gone out of use, because the bushing located in the clutch housing quickly breaks, the rotor begins to rotate misaligned and quickly becomes unusable. The second option is widespread almost everywhere, and bushings in this version are much more durable.

However, they also wear out over time and play appears, which eventually leads to jamming.