The stove blows barely warm air VAZ 2109

VAZ 2109 carburetor. The radiator itself is hot (not boiling water, but rather hot). The lower pipe from the radiator is slightly warm, and the upper pipe to the radiator is the same temperature as the radiator itself. The stove blows barely warm air. Does the thermostat always move in a large circle?

With the onset of cold weather, many owners are faced with problems with their car heating system. At normal coolant temperatures, a slightly warm, and sometimes even cold, air flow flows from the air ducts into the passenger compartment; in other words, the stove does not heat properly. Thus, even in mild frost it will be difficult to warm up the car from the inside.

From the article you will learn what to do if the VAZ-2109 stove blows cold air. This material will be useful to you, including if the VAZ-2109 stove has broken down and does not work, also in order to avoid this problem in the future.

The simplest solution

If the heater blows cold, the simplest thing you can do is tighten the cable that controls the heater damper. To do this, wrap it a couple of times around the damper control lever. It is located on the heater housing near the gas pedal.

Each joint of the air duct and the edge of the heater damper are covered with foam rubber, which is quite problematic for the control lever to compress completely. Therefore, during compression, a small gap remains and the damper, which directs air flows from the street directly or through the stove radiator, cannot close completely. It closes in its upper position, while air flows into the front nozzles through the heater radiator, and into the upper and side nozzles from the street through the remaining gap. When the heater fan is running, and the car is still moving, a small gap is enough to keep the cabin cold.

To make it clearer what we're talking about, shorten the damper lever on the driver's side with your hand while the heater fan is running. After which you can notice how the sound changes and over time the temperature of the air flow coming from the deflector increases.

Unfortunately, this is not the only reason why cold air is blowing from the heater. Below are a few more reasons and options for solving them.

Why does the heater blow cold at idle?

The essence of the reason why a cold heater at idle in most cases comes down to problems with the engine cooling system. So, there are FIVE main reasons for this situation and several less common ones:

Insufficient coolant level in the system . This is the most common and easiest option to fix. In such a situation, even significantly heated coolant is not able to sufficiently warm up the interior heater. Please note that a low level of antifreeze in the engine cooling system not only causes the heater to blow cold air at idle, but also harms the engine itself, as overheating occurs, which leads to a decrease in its overall life. This problem is an indicator of the failure of its individual parts, or a change in their geometry.
Formation of air jams . Air in the cooling system may appear due to depressurization of individual pipes or their connection points, improper replacement of coolant, malfunction of the air valve, problems with the pump, or a breakdown of the cylinder head gasket. Air locks impede the circulation of antifreeze in the system; as a result, the stove heats only when moving, and at idle cold air blows from the deflectors.
Faulty water pump . This unit is responsible for circulating fluid through the system and when the impeller is not able to create sufficient flow, the heater blows cold air at idle, and when the car is moving it can be a little warmer.
Dirty heater radiator . The heater radiator tends to become clogged over time. As a result, heated liquid begins to pass through its honeycomb poorly. And this, in turn, will lead to the fact that the stove fan drives barely warm, or even completely cold, air.
The coolant supply is cut off . If the stove has a valve for supplying fluid to the heater radiator, then it may be that the car owner simply forgot to open it, having closed it in the summer, or it is jammed in a half-open or completely closed state. This is especially true for domestic cars, especially quite old ones (for example, VAZ “classic”, Moskvich and other cars of Soviet design). Typically, taps simply rust, especially when, instead of factory-made antifreeze, the car owner uses ordinary water as a coolant, especially “hard” water, that is, which contains a significant amount of salts of various metals.
Thermostat failure . When the thermostat rod sticks in the open state, this will be the reason why the heater blows cold at idle. If in a cold engine the coolant initially circulates in a large circle, it will only be able to warm up after the car has been driving for a long time, or it will take a lot of time to warm up when the engine is idling.
Problems with the operation of the climate control system . Modern cars equipped with this system sometimes experience software malfunctions, which leads to a situation where the heater does not heat up at idle. Problems may be associated with either incorrect configuration of a particular system, or a software or hardware failure of the climate control.

The tap is not fully open

To check this, whether this is the reason why the VAZ-2109 stove does not heat, it is enough to compare the temperature of the inlet and outlet pipes of the heater radiator; if it is different, then there is a high probability that the valve is not completely closed.

This problem can be solved by tightening the valve control cable and bringing the control lever to the maximum open position. But there is a danger that after these actions the valve will not close completely and it will be very hot in the cabin.

In addition, the valve has a big drawback - it is “designed” for a certain number of openings and closings. Where the axis of the control lever and the damper inside the valve connect, the tightness is lost and a leak forms over time. A solution may be to set the lever to the “hot-cold” position without further adjustment.

Usually, when you try to move the valve of the heater stove, a leak occurs, in this case, wrap the leak area with a strip of fabric soaked in sealant and fix it all with “cold welding”.

Operating principle of a car heater

If the car heater “refuses” to blow warm air, then, of course, the interior will be uncomfortable and unpleasant, especially in inclement, cool weather.
Having understood the principle of operation of the heater for the VAZ-2109 injector or carburetor, you can set up the operation of this device quite easily. A car heater stove can be considered a very ordinary heating device called a heat exchanger. The heating system is connected through a special tap to the system that is responsible for cooling the engine. When you turn on the stove, a special tap automatically opens, which allows cooling liquid to flow into the radiator located in the heating system. The liquid entering the radiator pipes is cooled, which leads to heat entering the cabin. The car heater is equipped with a fan that can operate in three modes. By choosing one mode or another, the driver can independently control the flow of warm air.

The instrument panel is equipped with a special handle for controlling the heater; with its help, the driver can choose which temperature he needs most: the highest or, for example, average.

Leaky ducts

Another factor in the formation of a cold flow instead of a hot one may be its loss in the cracks along the path from the fan, because of this the warm flow becomes weaker and cools down. To get out of this situation, you need to seal and glue all connections along the air flow path from the heater to the output nozzles. To do this, you will have to disassemble the dashboard, which in itself is long and laborious. But as a result, you will feel that the air flows from the heating system deflectors have increased.

Prevention and care of the VAZ-2109 stove

To avoid problems with the stove in cold weather, it is recommended to periodically maintain the system. Use the following recommendations:

Clean the radiator from internal contaminants that may accumulate during long-term use.
Use only high quality coolant. You should not save on such consumables. Low quality products can clog the system or damage the rubber pipes. Accordingly, it is better to use a good antifreeze than to subsequently incur additional expenses on repairing the cooling or heating system.
Check the thermostat's operation regularly. This device is designed to maintain a certain temperature in the system. If the unit jams, the liquid will not flow into the stove radiator, and the motor will begin to overheat.
Pay attention to the condition of the fan bearing. From time to time it is recommended to lubricate this element.

Airiness of the heating system

If the heater is working properly, there are no leaks and the damper cable has been adjusted, but cool air is still coming out of the deflectors, then an air lock may have formed in the system. To get rid of it, put your car on a hill with its front wheels, open the tap all the way and turn on the gas.

Another consequence of weak and cold air from the nozzles may be a clogged radiator core. Most often, the radiator becomes clogged in the fall, since then the air through the fan into the radiator, in addition to dust, also includes fallen leaves, which get stuck in the radiator, and sometimes can fly into the cabin, since this VAZ model does not have a cabin filter.

Troubleshooting methods

Methods for eliminating the problem of why the stove blows cold air at idle will depend on the reasons themselves, which have been rechecked in order. So, first of all, you need to check the coolant level in the expansion tank. Please note that this must be done on a cold engine (!!!), so that the coolant is also relatively cold and the car owner does not get burned.

If it is below the middle, then add coolant. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the compatibility of antifreeze. It is advisable to fill it with the same brand and class that is in the cooling system. If the antifreeze has not been changed for a long time and/or is in poor condition, then it is better to replace it with a new one.

If air pockets form in the cooling system, they must be removed. There are three main methods for removing air from the cooling line. They all boil down to allowing the engine to run with the system depressurized so that the air can come out of the system on its own during the antifreeze circulation process. You can perform the procedure for removing air from the cooling system yourself in the garage or even in the field.

When the check shows that the pump is faulty, it will have to be replaced accordingly. But to identify the problem, you will have to dismantle the water pump. Often the cause of failure lies in wear of the impeller, bearing, or depressurization of seals. As for the bearing and rubber seals, in some cases they are replaced with new elements.

If the reason lies in the difficulty of the passage of liquid through the heater radiator, then you can try to rinse it. At the same time, it will be possible to see if it has cracked the body, and, accordingly, if antifreeze is flowing through it and if air is being sucked in. Typically, flushing has a positive effect on the efficiency of the heater, including at idle speed of the engine, as well as when the car is driving on the highway or in the city driving cycle at high speeds.

If the car heater has a valve for supplying liquid to the radiator, then do not forget to check its operation. So, for example, on VAZs (both new and old), this is one of the weak points of the interior heating system.

When the stove heats poorly only when starting on a cold engine and the engine itself does not reach operating temperature for a long time, then the first thing you should do is check the operation of the thermostat. So, for the first few minutes, until the coolant reaches an operating temperature of about +80°C...+90°C, the pipe leading to the top of the main radiator will be cold and relatively soft. The thermostat valve should only open when the antifreeze is warm enough. If yours is different, the thermostat must be replaced. In rare cases, you can try to repair it, but it is better to install a new one.

The car's climate control system operates on the basis of its own separate software and hardware. Therefore, checking its operation depends on the specific brand of car and the type of system itself. The verification algorithm is usually described in the car manual. If such information is available, you can check it yourself. Otherwise, it is better to seek help from a car service center, preferably one that specializes in working with the specific brand of car being tested.

The interior heater has failed

If the VAZ-2109 stove stops working, it does not respond to any position of the control lever, then it is very likely that the heating system motor has failed and should be replaced. But if this is not the case, then in order to find the problem, the car owner will need to “ring” all the contacts of the electrical part of the heating system; for this, you will need to remove the dashboard.

The heating system of a car is one of the important and serious systems in a car. Its malfunctions are especially unpleasant in winter, so try to carry out its maintenance and repair in a timely manner, then it will not let you down.

The VAZ 2109 stove must be in good working order. If in summer this is not so critical, then in winter it is simply impossible to drive a car with a non-working stove: firstly, it is cold, and secondly, the windows fog up, freeze and you cannot see the road. Many times I have seen comrades who drive in winter with the window open - it’s because their stove is not working. If you do not open the window, the windshield will very quickly become covered with steam, which, when frozen, becomes a crust of ice. This method of driving should be reserved as a last resort if the stove breaks down on the road. And so the stove needs to be repaired.

As a result, the stove begins to blow cold air into the interior.

Most often, the culprit for the fact that warm air does not flow into the cabin from the heater is a malfunction of the faucet or a stretched cable of the heating system. It is worth noting that these breakdowns can manifest themselves in VAZ-2109, which have a low panel, as well as in cars with a high panel. To find out the cause of the malfunction, first of all you should check the functionality of the crane:

the faucet valve is checked for various contaminants;
if contaminants that can get inside when pouring low-quality antifreeze are detected, the tap must be cleaned;
the structure is assembled and installed in its original place.

A training video will help you learn more about cleaning the faucet of a car heater; you can watch it at a time convenient for you on the Internet resource.

How to open a window when the SP is not working

Sometimes problems arise on the way, and the possibilities of self-diagnosis, and especially repair, are significantly limited. How to raise the window in such cases if the window regulator refuses to work? We have put together a small selection of tips that will help you get out of this unpleasant situation with honor:

A screwdriver or pliers are enough to remove the door trim. This will allow the glass to be disconnected from the actuator, after which it can be raised or lowered by hand. To fix it in the upper position, the glass will have to be supported with something suitable, at least with a stick. In this condition, you can operate the machine for several days until it becomes possible to carry out a full repair;
It is often possible to lift the glass manually by holding it between the palms of your hands and pulling upward with force. If the edge of the window is not visible, you will need to remove the rubber gaskets, and if this does not help, proceed to the previous step;
Often the inoperability of the joint venture is caused by a banal discharge of the battery, especially after a long period of inactivity. The problem is solved by recharging the battery. You can try to “borrow” it from a neighbor, at least to raise the glass. But if you are in a hurry, and there is no compassionate neighbor, try pressing the “Up” key with high frequency - sometimes the glass actually begins to rise a little;
You can raise a lowered window if the window lifter does not work using a barbaric method called “fishing”. It consists of using a fairly strong hook that squeezes into the gap between the door and the window. By moving it down/up and to the sides, you can hook onto the actuator and try to pull the glass up with this hook;
if the joint venture does not respond to your actions, you need to check whether power is supplied to the electric motor. This is done as follows: turn on the ignition, and then turn on the overhead lamp, then press the window lifter button. If power is supplied to the motor, the intensity of the glow will decrease momentarily. In this case, you can try to revive the engine by pressing the ESP button and hitting the handle with which you open the door with your fist with considerable force. Sometimes this helps - if the reason lies in the wedging of the worm due to worn teeth of the plastic gear of the gearbox. This usually happens in the extreme (usually lower) positions of the glass;
If the window regulator does not go down, the reason may be a broken electrical wiring. In such cases, it is necessary to open the door and remove the casing with wires. To check the lack of contact, you will need the help of a friend who will press the SP button, and at this time you will pull each of the wires in turn. If the glass moves, you have found a malfunction, and you can even fix it yourself;
if you are convinced that the motor is intact and the problem is not a faulty gearbox (if the window goes down normally, without jerking or suspicious sound effects, but does not want to go up), try rearranging the wires going to the motor, and then press the “Down” key . If the glass rises, you can lower it before repairs can be made by repeating this procedure.

We hope these tips will help you temporarily solve the problem of your power window not working.

The window regulator slowly raises the glass - what should I do? There is a solution!

Hi all! Dear friends, you are all aware of what “jambs” and shortcomings each of us “happy” owners of domestic VAZ cars have to eliminate. Today’s article is another life-saving solution for those who are faced with the problem of poorly functioning beet lifters.

Electric windows (ESP) have been installed on foreign cars for decades, so, as a rule, there are no problems with them, which cannot be said about VAZs. On “our” swallows, such a miracle has been occurring for about 10 years, and as practice shows, the good old “meat grinders” in the form of a simple mechanical handle worked much more reliably. Get to the point! A defect was noticed on many models from 2109 to 2115, where, as a rule, the front right glass does not rise well. Moreover, the window lifters slowly raise somewhere from the middle or even lower, the glass slows down or stops rising altogether. At the same time, drivers help the ESP either with their hand or with a “clarion word”.

Heater motor malfunctions

Troubleshooting in the heating system of front-wheel drive VAZs should begin with the heater motor:

turn on the ignition, start the engine;
On the heater control unit we check the operation of the motor in all positions. If you can hear the stove motor changing speed when switching, it is most likely working.

The heater motor may not work for several reasons:

the fuse responsible for the operation of the electric motor has blown;
the contact in the mounting block has oxidized;
the switch itself is faulty;
there are breaks in the electrical wiring;
The furnace electric motor burned out.

If the motor only operates at maximum speed (third position), the resistor is most likely faulty.

When the heater motor burns out, it needs to be replaced. We carry out the work of replacing the part as follows (using the example of 2114):

remove the decorative trim on the driver's side of the cabin;
disconnect the black-blue power supply wire of the motor, unscrew the ground mount;
open the hood, remove the wiper arms;
unscrew the fastenings of the frill (windshield wiper panel), remove the rubber seal;
unscrew the four screws securing the upper motor casing;
we pull the power wires of the electric motor through the rubber seal;
to remove the motor itself, the housing must be halved;
Having turned half of the housing with the motor, we dismantle the assembly.

Now all that remains is to install the new spare part and secure all the removed parts in their places.