We independently change the stove fan on a VAZ 2107

Reasons for replacement

Replacing the VAZ-2107 stove motor occurs for several reasons. Let's look at the most common cases when a new VAZ-2107 heater fan is needed.

1. A terrible sound with a characteristic screeching sound. If such a squeal appears when the car is warming up, it is better not to lubricate the engine, as many do, but to replace the VAZ-2107 heater fan.
2. The air does not flow and the interior does not warm up - there is nothing left to do but remove and change the heater motor on the VAZ-2107.
3. The air flow is very weak.
4. The interior warms up extremely slowly.

Remember that a well-functioning system will be almost inaudible, since insulation and other materials ideally muffle sound very well. However, if something is broken, you can easily fix it.

Where to begin

If the fan of the VAZ-2107 stove does not work, it is most likely necessary to change the motor. Replacing the VAZ-2107 stove fan begins with preparing the necessary keys and screwdrivers. It is better to work with gloves.

The first step is to remove the trim from the windshield. To do this, open the hood and begin to remove the trim from the corners: unscrew the fastening nuts. After the nuts, unscrew the screws along the entire length of the windshield.

We remove the seal, being careful not to damage it, and put it aside. Carefully remove the cover. Disconnect the hose from the washer. We will also need to remove the trim and frill, for which we unscrew all the screws under the plastic plugs. We remove the remaining linings and insulation, getting to the heater housing. Next we need to get to the electric motor itself.

Important points

In order for the stove repair to proceed as quickly as possible, and its results not to disappoint the car owner, you should adhere to the rules below:

• When removing the old motor, be sure to turn it. If this is not done, part of its fastening may break and get stuck in the torpedo, or more precisely, in the mounting bracket. And getting to the stuck fragment will not be so easy.
• When tightening the mounting screws with a Phillips screwdriver, you should not use too much force: they are small, so the threads in their sockets can easily be stripped.

As practice shows, replacing an engine is not particularly difficult even for a novice car enthusiast if he has held a wrench and a screwdriver in his hands at least once in his life. The whole procedure takes 40–50 minutes maximum. The main thing is not to overdo it with tightening the fasteners, and everything will be fine.

Do-it-yourself replacement of the VAZ-2114 stove motor

To force the air flow in the interior heating system, a fan driven by an electric motor is used. Thanks to this fan, the heater's operating efficiency increases.

Of the entire stove design, the fan is the most complex element, since it uses an electric motor. The electric motor itself is a direct current motor with excitation from permanent magnets. Despite its structural simplicity, the motor gradually wears out and stops working or functions incorrectly, which affects the performance of the interior heater.

Causes of malfunction

Note that the reason that the fan does not turn on is problems with the power circuit. Oxidation of wiring contacts, blown fuse, faulty resistor - all this leads to the cessation of operation of the electric motor.

Therefore, if it does not turn on, you should first check the power circuit components.

Common problems with the fan motor are the occurrence of extraneous sounds during operation - squeals, rattling, interruptions in operation - spontaneous stopping, difficult starting, etc.

The reason for the appearance of third-party sounds:

1. Deterioration in the landing bushings into which the electric motor rotor is installed, lack of lubrication in them. Because of this, the rotor becomes loose during operation, which creates increased vibrations and rattling, and “dry” friction is accompanied by squealing.
2. Interruptions in operation are caused by critical wear of the graphite brushes and contact plates of the rotor. Because of this, the brushes and plates cannot make normal contact with each other, which leads to problems in the operation of the fan motor - it does not spin up when turned on and may stop spontaneously.

Troubleshooting the electric motor of the stove is a problematic process and not always advisable; it is easier to purchase a new fan and replace it.

How to replace a heater motor

Due to the fact that the fan is fixed on the heater housing and is accessible from the engine compartment, replacing the VAZ-2114 heater motor is a simple process and does not require disassembling the interior heating system and draining the coolant. Therefore, you can replace the fan yourself, without seeking help from a service station.

To replace the motor, the tools you will need are screwdrivers and a 8-10 wrench. The algorithm for dismantling the heater fan on a VAZ-2114 is as follows: 1. Turn off the power to the on-board network by removing the “positive” terminal from the battery.

2. In the passenger compartment, on the driver’s side, behind the pedal unit, we find the fan power wires – black (“ground”, pressed with a nut to one of the bolts) and blue (“plus”).

3. Unscrew the ground nut, find the blue wire connector and disconnect it. 4. Open the hood.

5. Remove the fan casing with the filter installed in it. To do this, unscrew the 4 fastening screws.

6. Unscrew the fastening screws of the air intake grille installed near the glass. We remove the grille. 7. Unscrew the 2 bolts securing the fan housing.

8. Using a “pull” motion, remove the body from the support. 9. Rotate the body 90 degrees. and remove it from the niche.

Further actions depend on what exactly was purchased for replacement - the assembly with the housing or just the electric motor with the impeller. If a fully assembled structure is available, we install a new element using the technology reverse to that described above.

Fan disassembly

In the case where there is a motor with an impeller, we disassemble the fan housing. To do this, remove the foam seal from the outlet socket, then remove the housing clamps, after which it will split into two halves.

We extract the email. motor, for which we unfasten the spring clamps of the motor cover, remove this cover and remove the electric motor. the engine together with the impeller from half the housing.

The electric motor is replaced only as an assembly with the impeller, and it is not recommended to disconnect them so as not to disturb the alignment.

When assembling, be sure to stick a foam seal around the perimeter of the outlet socket, otherwise the air flow will dissipate due to the cracks, which will reduce the efficiency of the stove.

If the electric motor of the stove made a strong squeal during operation, you don’t have to change the electric motor, just disassemble the fan and put grease in the bushings. But these measures will help eliminate the squealing for a short period of time and ultimately the stove motor will have to be replaced.

Replace without removing the panel

But no matter what method is used, you will first have to drain the coolant from the system. Therefore, you will have to stock up on antifreeze in the required quantity in advance.

First, let's look at the replacement method without removing the panel. As already mentioned, this will require making cuts in some places.

To complete the work you will need:

• Set of screwdrivers of different lengths;
• Hacksaw blade for metal;
• Flat container for draining residual coolant from the radiator;
• Rags.

Having prepared everything and drained the coolant from the cooling system, you can begin work:

1. We remove the storage box (glove compartment) from the panel, for which it is necessary to unscrew 6 screws securing it;
2. Remove the side trims on the center console;
3. Using a metal blade, we make the necessary cuts: The first cut is vertical
   , we make it on the inner wall of the panel near the center console (behind the metal strip of the glove compartment).
   Moreover, here you will have to make two cuts. The second cut is horizontal
   , running in the upper part along the rear wall of the opening under the glove compartment.
   The third is also vertical
   , but not end-to-end. It is done on the right on the rear wall of the lower storage shelf of the panel;
4. After all the cuts, part of the panel together with the wall can be bent down, which will provide access to the radiator. We bend this part and fix it;
5. Unscrew the near bracket for fastening the heating system flap control cable and move the cable to the side;
6. Loosen the clamps of the coolant supply pipes to the radiator. In this case, you should place a prepared container under the connection points, since liquid will flow out of the heat exchanger. Remove the pipes;
7. We unscrew the three screws securing the radiator, remove it and immediately inspect it.

Afterwards we replace the heat exchanger, fix it in the seat, connect the pipes to it and clamp it with clamps. To make the pipes fit easily, lubricate them with soap.

At this stage of work, you should fill the cooling system with liquid and run it to remove air pockets.

Next, it remains to make sure that the connections between the pipes and the radiator are not leaking, and that the damper and faucet are connected without errors.

After this, all that remains is to return the cut part of the panel to its place and fix it. To do this, you can use screws and plates.

The main thing is to fix it in several places so that in the future the cut off part does not rattle when moving. Use sealant or silicone.

This method is convenient because if you replace the radiator again (which is quite possible), all the work will be very simple - you just need to remove the storage box and unscrew a few screws.

In addition, all cuts are made in such places that after assembling the panel and installing the glove compartment they will not be noticeable.

Removing the fan

Using a 7 mm wrench, slightly loosen the clamp of the heater damper regulator drive cable and remove its loop from the lever.

Using a ten key, unscrew the nut holding the heater retainer, as well as both air hoses. The latter are extremely carefully removed from the body of the stove itself. These elements are very easily damaged - if this trouble occurs, the defects must be immediately eliminated or the air ducts must be completely replaced with new ones.

Using a flat-head screwdriver, press out the latches that hold the fan itself to the surface of the radiator. Then the terminals supplying the electric motor are disconnected and only then the entire assembly can be pulled out.

As a rule, the fan motor also needs to be removed. Before replacing it, you need to remove the impeller. You will need pliers here. They use them to pull out the locking ring, as well as the adjusting washers.

The blades will then be held in place only due to their tight fit to the axis. They should also be dismantled extremely carefully, as they are quite brittle. Having completed this stage, they begin to remove the fan itself from the case. Using a screwdriver, remove all the spring plates and it will come out easily.

If an electric motor breaks down completely, it is not repaired, but simply replaced - it is not very expensive.

It only makes sense to disassemble it if you need:

• clean the collector;
• Remove old dried grease from bearings.

The heater blows poorly into the legs and side windows

The heating system of the VAZ-2114 is not reliable. Over time, the stove stops heating the legs and side windows normally. Moreover, the problem is not in the temperature of the air (on the contrary, it can be hot), but in the strength of the flow with which it comes from the nozzles. In this case, you will have to modify the air flow channels. To do this, remove the front panel so that there is access to the nozzles.

Next, a new corrugated hose is installed (just plastic tubes come from the factory). Additionally, we treat the joints with the heat-insulating material “Spleen”. All cracks between the top and bottom of the panel are also covered with it. Next, you should modify the stove damper, which directs the flow to the desired area. Often it does not fit well against the body. Because of this, a large percentage of hot air is simply lost in the panel and “walks” in the cracks. So, we remove the damper and remove the old yellow factory seal. We seal all the cracks with modelin. Instead of a sponge, we glue “Bitoplast”. It is advisable to apply it in several layers.

Replacing the stove fan

Interior plastic, washer reservoir (third one already!), heater fan (has been humming and groaning for a long time), arch protection, additional brake light (mine is broken), seat belt clamps, and floor mats in the interior - the top one on the tidy, and in the floor tunnel , and yes, I also took something like a glove compartment into the route PC compartment.

Upon arrival home, without eating or drinking, I ran to install it all)) Having installed all the new plastic and tank, I set to work on the stove fan

Everything went well: I unscrewed the casing, unscrewed the fan mounts, and pulled the wires out of the interior. Well, I think it’s written in the book - “turn, pull and there it is in your hands” - so let’s repeat it now... But that’s not the case...

Taking different poses, running back and forth, crying and laughing like a normal person, the right position was finally found...

Here's what we have...

Carefully, without peeling off the foam (it’s better to replace it, of course), without breaking the latch, open the casing,

Change the filling and assemble everything in reverse order.

What about the prices:

• Rack cover 2109 middle bottom (set) - 120 rub.
• Front top strut trim (set) — 80 rub.
• Dashboard mat — 85 RUR.
• Tunnel mat 2108 — 60 rub.
• Heater motor 2108 — 910 rub.
• Washer reservoir 21083(eng) - 130 rub.
• Miniblock console 21083 — 170 rub.
• Additional stop 2109 - 290 rub.
• Wing arch 2108 (set) — 30 rub.
• Seat belt retainer (set) - 50 rub.

The stove doesn't work in summer

Sometimes during the warm season it is impossible to turn off the stove by setting the upper handle of the control unit to the extreme left position. If you cannot turn off the tap, the tap itself or its drive cable is faulty. The tap can be found under the instrument panel on the passenger side. If you also cannot close it manually, you should not apply much effort. The faucet may break and antifreeze may leak into the cabin.

You can replace the faucet after purchasing a new one at any car service center. However, you can try to do this yourself. It should be noted that changing the faucet with your own hands is quite inconvenient due to its location. First, open the hood and disconnect the pipe going to the tap. Since coolant will flow from the pipe, it is necessary to place a previously prepared container under it. After this, you need to remove the storage shelf and, using a 10mm wrench, unscrew the two nuts securing the faucet to the heater body from the passenger seat. Then the tap is removed from the studs, removed and replaced with a new tap in the reverse order.

The reason for the inability to turn off the heater is usually a faulty heater valve.

Replacing the heater switch on a VAZ 2114

Replacing the heater switch

It should be immediately noted that replacing the VAZ 2114 heater switch is not a difficult job, but very inconvenient and painstaking. For greater convenience, you can also remove the dashboard and completely drain the coolant, but you can do everything without this. In order to replace the heater valve we will need:

• Key for 10
• Rags
• Coolant
• Worm clamp with a diameter of 16-23 mm
• New heater tap
• Empty containers with a volume of 5 liters or more
• Crosshead screwdriver.

How to replace the heater valve on a VAZ 2114

The first step is to unscrew the side wall on the passenger side of the central instrument panel or remove the panel completely - at your discretion. So:

• We place rags under the passenger’s feet and under the faucet to absorb spilled drops of liquid.
• Open the hood and unscrew the clamps of the heater outlet and inlet hoses, remove the pipes from the faucet and drain the liquid into an empty container.
• Then, inside the car, using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the fastening clamps securing the heater pipes to the faucet and disconnect them. Place a container to drain the coolant.
• Using pliers, remove the bracket from the faucet lever rod and remove it from the lever hole.
• Then we return to the engine compartment again and, using a 10mm wrench, unscrew the 2 valve fasteners of the heater to the panel.
• And again we return to the salon and pull out the faucet.

Install the new faucet in reverse order:

• We install a new faucet in its place.
• We secure it from the engine compartment with two nuts (it is recommended to pre-lubricate them with anticorrosive.
• Fully open the faucet from the interior side and tighten the bracket.
• Then we put the pipes on the engine compartment side and the interior side and secure them well.
• If you have drained it completely, then fill it with coolant, or unscrew the pipe on the throttle assembly and pour liquid into the tube until it is full.
• We install the pipe in place, start the car, warm it up, tighten the clamps on the tap pipes and turn on the heater.

If cold air is blowing from the heater, then there is most likely air left in the heater radiator. To fix this problem, you will need to remove the air. This completes the procedure for replacing the heater tap, screw the instrument panel into place and you can ride.

How to get to the heater

First of all, to make it more convenient to work, you need to think about additional lighting for the place where you will be replacing the VAZ-2107 heater motor. Unscrew the negative wire from the heater motor. It is screwed on with a nut and it will take some effort to unscrew it.

If the nut is rusty, it is better to first lubricate it with penetrating lubricant. We unscrew it first with a key, and then by hand, trying not to drop the consumables. If there is another nut, unscrew it with a deep head; if not, remove the wire. Remove the clamp from the self-tapping screw. We are looking for another positive wire and disconnect it from the plug.

Now it is most convenient to use a short screwdriver to unscrew the screws securing the heating system box and remove the 4 spring brackets. The bolts in the middle are the longest, so set them aside to screw them into place later.

Replacing the heater motor on a VAZ 2114

1. Examination
2. Replacement
3. Price issue

When a car's heater fails, the fan motor is often the cause. You can detect such a malfunction by the characteristic sounds that occur when you try to turn on the heater.

Examination

To make sure that the motor is the cause of the heating system malfunction, you should carry out a simple but indicative procedure:

• Start the car;
• Turn on the first, second and third speeds of the stove alternately;
• If there are no sounds indicating the start of the fan operation, the motor has failed;
• If the fan did not turn on at speeds 1 and 2, but started working at speed 3, then the cause of the problem may be a switch or an additional resistor.

Causes of failure

The motor may not work for several reasons. Each of them requires separate consideration. Therefore, we invite you to familiarize yourself with the possible causes of fan failure in our table.

Cause

It is important to know

Fuse blown

The fuse F7 with a voltage of 30A is responsible for the stove. Replacing it is not difficult, but the main problem lies in the possible occurrence of a short circuit

This fuse is responsible for the lighting in the glove compartment, headlight washers, cigarette lighter, and heated mirrors. If it malfunctions, all specified devices will stop working.

There is no contact in the mounting block

This is a common problem in cars and occurs as a result of contact oxidation or loss of connection strength.

Ignition relay sticks

The heater turns on only after the car has warmed up. Therefore, it is recommended to check the condition of the ignition relay if the fan is not working. Replace relay if necessary

The heater only turns on at speed 3

Speeds 1 and 2 are activated by an additional resistor, and in mode 3 the current goes directly to the motor. In this situation, you should replace the additional resistor or check its contacts

The heater switch is broken

Here we are talking about problems with the electrical target or fuse. To check their condition, you can use a test lamp

Problems in motor design

If everything is fine with the switch and current, but the fan does not respond, you should check the level of overheating of the motor, its ground contacts or brushes for sticking

Depending on the problems encountered, you may need to replace the fan. Changing the motor is not difficult, although to do this you must have some skill or at least minimal experience in working with the electrical equipment of your car.

The first step when replacing the heater motor is to disconnect the battery.

Motor location

Replacement

Replacing a failed unit is not difficult. Follow certain rules and sequence of your actions to achieve the desired result.

1. Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery.
2. Lift the hood and in the engine compartment, remove all the mounting bolts that hold the plastic trim.
3. For now, the overlay can be moved to the side so that it does not interfere with work.
4. Remove the rubber seal, which also has its place in the engine compartment.
5. Remove the protective cover from your heater motor. So you have reached the desired object and can begin replacing.
6. On the sides of the motor are two bolts that hold your fan in place.
7. Now go into the interior and remove the driver's side panel. There is a positive plug located there, which must be disconnected.
8. Next, look for the negative wire. It is held on by one nut, which must be unscrewed.
9. The disconnected wires are inserted into the hole in the body of your car, passing through the rubber seal.
10. Remove the damaged motor. To do this, you need to turn it and pull it out through the right side.

Dismantling the fan motor

Follow the reassembly sequence strictly to avoid mistakes that could lead to even more serious problems.

As you can see, removing the device is not difficult. Having studied the condition of the fan motor, we can draw a conclusion regarding the need to replace it. Sometimes car owners get by with simply repairing brushes or replacing fuses.

Price issue

We advise you to choose a high-quality motor for replacement so that later there are no problems with its performance.

The price depends on whether you buy the motor complete with housing or separately.

The motor itself will cost you about 500 rubles, and for the assembled device you will have to pay about 1000 rubles. Which option is preferable for you, decide for yourself.

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Replacing parts

How to change the heater fan on a VAZ-2107 becomes clear when you see this motor. With a slight force, the motor is pulled out of the grooves, and the wires are pulled out through the seal. The negative wire can usually be removed without problems, but the positive wire requires some effort.

When the wires are removed, the motor is disconnected from the body and can now be replaced with a new one, previously purchased at an auto parts store.

How to independently remove and replace the stove on a VAZ-2115

20.02.2017

Heater malfunctions in any car cause a lot of trouble. It is especially difficult to correct the situation when the problem has already started and coolant has leaked.

Replacing a heater on a car is not an easy task, since in order to get to it, you will have to disassemble half the car and it will take a lot of time. Unfortunately, not everyone knows how to remove and replace the stove on a VAZ-2115, and therefore they turn to a car service center.

But you shouldn’t rush to give your car into the wrong hands because of this procedure alone, because:

1. Work to replace components costs about 1500–2000 rubles.
2. It’s not a fact that they will do everything efficiently.
3. Very often, car service workers treat their work anyhow and can break something when dismantling the panel.

The device of the VAZ-2115 stove

The VAZ-2115 and VAZ-2114 have the same heating systems; using the diagram below you can clearly see its structure.

44 — fan motor; 45 - additional resistance resistor; 46 - speed switch.

How to diagnose the performance of the VAZ-2115 heater

• Turn on switch 1 first, then second and third speeds.
• Using levers 2 and 4, you can adjust the desired direction of the air flow, and the latter also makes it possible to select the desired temperature.

The reasons for the breakdown may be different:

• A faulty fan means the stove does not work at all.
• If the radiator still shows signs of life, then the breakdown may be a failure of the additional resistor or the interior heater does not respond to switch commands.
• But the stove tap can also leak or become stuck, in which case it must be urgently replaced.
• When the fan is running at full power and the temperature is at maximum, and the engine is warm, then perhaps the heater radiator is clogged. To clean or replace it, you will need to disassemble it.

Replacing the radiator of the VAZ-2115 stove

Replacement is necessary when the heater radiator leaks or is clogged. If the radiator is clogged, you can blow it out with a Karcher, but keep in mind that it can deteriorate under high pressure.

How to disassemble the stove and remove the radiator

In order to remove the radiator, you must first drain the coolant and disassemble the dashboard. If the coolant is still good, it can be refilled again after replacing the failed elements.

To save time, you don’t have to remove the panel completely, but just do partial disassembly.

Replacing the heating fan on a VAZ 2107

Before starting work, you should select everything you need. Here's what we need:

• screwdrivers (phillips and flat);
• wrenches (set of open-end and socket wrenches);
• new stove fan for VAZ 2107.

Sequencing

First you need to carry out one preparatory operation: remove the gear shift lever. In the VAZ 2107 it creates serious problems when dismantling the furnace fan. Then you should remove the radio from its niche. It is attached with two self-tapping screws. When removing the radio, do not forget about the wires that are located behind it. The device carefully slides out of the niche so that you can stick your hand into the gap formed between the radio and the front panel and remove all the connectors with wires located on the back cover of the radio.

1. Now, using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the shelf located in front of the passenger. It is attached with four self-tapping screws.
2. Next, remove the console with the cigarette lighter. It is carefully pryed up in the lower left corner with a flat screwdriver and bent towards itself until it clicks. The same is done with other corners, after which the panel is removed from the niche.
3. Behind it are wires that are manually disconnected from the panel. Before disconnecting the wires, it is strongly recommended to put some marks on them so that nothing gets mixed up when reassembling. At the top of the niche there are two 10mm fastening nuts. It is most convenient to unscrew them with a socket head.
4. Above the panel with the cigarette lighter there is another panel with buttons. It is pryed from below with a flat screwdriver and bent upward. Underneath there are two screws with washers that can be unscrewed with a Phillips screwdriver.
5. Now the cigarette lighter panel is completely freed from its fasteners, and it can be removed and placed on the floor of the cabin.
6. The next step is to disconnect the air ducts. They are held on by flat plastic latches that can be easily bent with a flat screwdriver.
7. After removing the air ducts, access to the VAZ 2107 heater itself, or rather, to its lower part, opens. It has four steel latches: two on the left, two on the right. If you have certain skills, the latches can be bent with your fingers. If that doesn’t work, then you’ll have to use a flat-head screwdriver again (it should be noted here that you need to use the screwdriver as carefully as possible, since when bent, the latches pop out of their sockets and fly away to God knows where).
8. Access to the electric motor and fan is open. The motor with the fan attached to it is held in place by two steel latches located at the top and bottom. It is impossible to bend them by hand, so you cannot do without a screwdriver (and the blade of the screwdriver must be very thin and narrow, since another blade simply will not fit into the slot of the latch).
9. The motor with the fan, free from fasteners, is removed and replaced with a new one. After this, the VAZ 2107 heating system is reassembled.

Causes and signs of heating fan failure

The list of reasons why a VAZ 2107 stove fan may break is small. Here he is:

breakage of the blade in the impeller. As mentioned above, the furnace fan impeller on the VAZ 2107 is unreliable because it is made of very fragile plastic. To make matters worse, the fragility of this material increases in the cold. Therefore, you should not be surprised that the impeller breaks in the most severe frost;

As a rule, the plastic blades in the impeller of the VAZ 2107 break at the root

If the brushes in the VAZ 2107 motor are worn out, the fan will not rotate

The signs by which you can recognize a breakdown of a heating fan are also well known. Let's list them:

• After turning on the heater the fan does not make noise. This means that either the motor is broken, or it is working properly, but the current supply to it is interrupted. This usually occurs due to a blown fuse responsible for this section of the vehicle’s on-board electrical network;
• The rotation of the heating fan is accompanied by a loud grinding or crackling noise. This means that a piece of the blade has broken off from the impeller and is hitting the inside of the furnace casing;
• The furnace fan rotates with a loud, continuous squeaking noise that gets louder as the speed increases. The source of the squeak is the bushing in the fan. Over time, it wears out, and play appears on the fan, which causes a characteristic creaking sound.

About lubrication of the heating fan VAZ 2107

In short, lubricating the fan on a VAZ 2107 is a pointless task. Now more details. All heating fans on the VAZ 2107, regardless of the year of manufacture of the car, are equipped only with bushing bearings. As mentioned above, the bushing wears out over time and begins to creak piercingly. If the play resulting from wear of the bushing is small, then the creaking can be eliminated with the help of lubricant. But this is only a temporary measure that will lead to nothing, because very soon the lubricant will run out, the play will increase, and the fan will creak again. Therefore, the only rational option in this situation is to replace the furnace fan with a new one. Moreover, it is desirable that the new fan be equipped not with a bushing, but with a ball bearing, which will last twice as long.

Equipment operation mechanism

The fan regulates the flow of air that will circulate inside the car. It has several damper positions, which can be directed towards heating the feet, glass or the passenger part of the cabin.

1. 1. To supply heat to the interior of the car, it is necessary to adjust the supply of thermal air by closing and opening the tap.
2. 2. Through these actions, coolant enters the radiator, which contributes to the formation of heat. The stove operates at the maximum coolant level with a fully heated motor, which is about one hundred degrees.
3. 3. When the stove switches to different speed modes, the fan speed is regulated.
4. 4. In the car interior there are special partitions with the help of which you can determine the main root causes of failure of the VAZ 2114 stove.

In case of malfunctions, the cause should be sought in the following:

The fuse has failed;

The most pressing reason. A faulty fuse does not work properly, which can be the main reason for the breakdown of the entire heating system of the vehicle. Often the cause of a blown fuse is a short circuit. To determine this deficiency, you will have to fully understand the operation of the safety chain.

Poor contact in the inside of the mounting block;

Poor contact of the mounting block

The main cause of this malfunction is considered to be oxidized wiring. There is a solution to the problem: just reconsider the wires connected in front of the mounting block and replacement may be required.

The ignition relay has failed;

Occurs as a result of a stuck ignition relay. The trouble is revealed simply. In this case, the fan does not work properly and is noisy; its effectiveness is expressed only when the engine is fully warmed up. To eliminate this failure, it is necessary to replace the relay.

Inoperability of the stove speed modes;

It is detected when the fan is operating at maximum mode, which makes noise. In this case, it is necessary to evaluate the performance of the heating resistor. If it becomes unusable, replacement will help. This is the design of the heating system. In modes 1-2, the equipment operates using an additional resistor, and only mode 3 is switched on directly from the battery.

Malfunction in the VAZ 2107 mounting block

If the stove stops blowing air, then first of all look to see if fuse F1 in the mounting block is intact. Usually, if this fuse blows, then the heated rear window and reverse lights stop working along with the heater. This fuse must be rated 10 amps. No more and no less. If you install a fuse of less than the nominal value, it will constantly burn out, and if you install a fuse of a higher nominal value, it is possible to burn the mounting block. If you have a fuse of a higher rating (as in the photo below), then the likelihood increases that the mounting block has failed and the plus is not supplied to the speed shift button. How to find out, read the next paragraph.

Repair of stove fan VAZ 21132115

Why does the heater motor stop working? There are reasons for this, and there are several of them. However, most often the cause of malfunction is clogging. Dust gets everywhere, including inside the mechanism.

Cleaning the stove fan in some cases helps to improve the operation of the mechanism

Causes and signs of heater motor failure

With the onset of cold weather, correct and uninterrupted operation of the heater becomes more important. But according to the law of meanness, it is precisely at this time that frequent problems are observed that have their own reasons:

1. The safety element fails, designed to monitor not only the heater along with its components, but also the glove compartment lighting, the optics washer motor, etc. This 30-amp fuse is located in a special block and is marked with the number F7. As a rule, the reason for its burnout is a short circuit. A burnt out element simply needs to be replaced.
2. The ignition relay is located under the instrument panel. It can also cause problems with the stove motor, as it is connected to the electrical circuit. You can make sure that it is a relay by the following sign: the fan does not work only when the engine is warm (more details about the relay are written at the end).
3. The stove radiator deteriorates and scale forms in it over time. The element can be removed and washed with “Mole” or other liquids.
4. Air enters the system, forming plugs. This negatively affects the overall operation of the stove, including the motor. Proper airing of the entire system will help.
5. The additional resistor is faulty. If this part is the “culprit”, electricity will begin to flow to the motor only in the third position of the heater operation. Accordingly, in the first and second modes the fan will not turn on, since the current in this case flows through the resistor. The problem is solved by replacing the resistor.
6. The contacts of the wiring terminals connecting the fan to the car's electrical system have become loose. You need to re-tighten them, and if they have oxidized, clean them.

How to remove the fan

The VAZ 2113-2115 heater motor is removed as follows:

1. First remove the side cover of the dashboard from the pedal side.
2. Then the electrical contact is disconnected from under the dashboard - a transition device between the car's electrical system and the motor.
3. The “ground” located on the bolt under the head “10” is also unscrewed.

After this, you need to transfer the work to the engine compartment:

1. Unscrew the protective cover hiding the motor.
2. Then remove the screws holding it in place.
3. Wires disconnected inside the car should be pulled up.
4. After this, you need to remove the top cover of the motor to make it easier to remove.
5. Pull by hand to remove the fan.

Video: how to dismantle the heater motor on a VAZ 2115

How is the replacement carried out?

Before direct replacement, it is recommended to check the motor, because it may not work:

1. Place the fan on a flat surface.
2. Connect the wires to the battery terminals.

A faulty element will not rotate at all or will do so intermittently, weakly and noisily. Before work, you must also remember to thoroughly clean all debris from the niche where the new motor will be installed. The replacement procedure does not take more than 40 minutes for an experienced motorist. All you need is a screwdriver, wrenches and a new fan. The activity is performed in reverse to the withdrawal process. The wiring terminals must be securely secured so that they do not loosen while the machine is moving.

Where is the VAZ 2113-2115 heater relay located?

Not all motorists who decide to carry out repairs and replacements themselves can quickly find a faulty stove. The relay is responsible for sufficient heating of the interior, so a motor malfunction may be associated with it.

Often this element simply wears out. This is not a repairable part, it only requires replacement

Therefore, it is important to know where the relay is located in order to replace it yourself in a timely manner. The element is located on the center console under the instrument panel, often in the mounting block, next to the fuse

The VAZ 2113-2115 heater relay is located near the fuses

The heater motor is an important and indispensable element of the car heating system. Periodic maintenance and timely replacement of faulty parts will always help keep the car interior warm.

Other actions

Owners of VAZ-2107 cars are well aware of most of the intricacies of repairing their iron horse with their own hands. Anyone who does not disdain such an activity understands perfectly well that replacing a part in a given car can be much easier than getting to it. Therefore, if you have disassembled almost half of the torpedo, you should take the opportunity and carefully inspect all those spare parts that are in your public domain.

It is necessary to pay attention to possible malfunctions that are visible to the naked eye, a violation of the tightness of the same stove, as well as signs of a possible imminent failure of some other spare part

How to replace the VAZ-2114 stove motor with your own hands

A warm interior is the key to good and comfortable travel by car. A non-working stove can not only cause discomfort, but also become an argument against further travel by car at all. It’s one thing when you came to the garage, noticed a non-working heater and refused to move further in the car during the breakdown, but if this breakdown caught you on the road, the nearest service center is far away, and it is not possible to drive a car with a non-working interior heater, because the windshield becomes covered with frost and further movement becomes dangerous. Then the only option left is to either transport the car using a tow truck, or try to fix it yourself.

Malfunction in the heater motor itself

Before disassembling the panel and stirring up the interior, check whether the mass going from the heater motor to the body sits well. It often happens that this wire simply rots.

If you have a multimeter, you can ring it. To do this, take out the speed switch button and disconnect the contacts from it. Now, in the continuity mode, connect one probe of the multimeter to ground, and check the wires with the others one by one. If the motor and ballast resistance are working properly, the multimeter will beep when checking two of the three wires. If the ballast resistance is faulty, then the multimeter will beep when checking one of the three wires, and if the heater motor does not work or does not have contact with ground, then the multimeter will be silent.