How dangerously weird electric power steering is, especially VAZ ones - data from 2022


Cars for sale

Lada Granta, 2013

Lada Granta, 2019

Lada Granta, 2021

Lada Granta, 2019

Comments 41

I had this problem.
The EUR stopped working periodically. Diagnostics does not show errors. I changed the speed sensor 2 times. The first time I bought it on the market, I was told that the grant required a speed sensor. I didn’t check the numbers with the old ones; in the end, nothing changed after the replacement. The speedometer works, but the EUR works every now and then. Then I bought exactly the same dachik after checking the numbers. Everything is working. I have the same problem: the EUR turns off when the air conditioner is turned on at idle, but when I move it turns back on! I'm sinning with the generator, just what should I pay attention to?

I drove with this problem for a year, the officials denied the problem and said that everything was fine. The problem was solved by chance when replacing the pads, with the ignition on, I turned the steering wheel all the way in one direction and the other. Perhaps some sensor was touched, but there are no sensors or contacts in the pads. I hope it helps someone.

I have this problem on my Priora. In short, I go to work, get into the car, start it, warm it up, start to move away and the EUR turns off, and only by the end of the evening it doesn’t seem to work for me. I decided to check the charging and this is what happened: with the engine running 13.9, with a stove 13.7, with dimensions and a stove 13.5, with low beam and with a stove and dimensions 13.3 and all together and the high beam in general is 13, I think that’s why the EUR turns off because it doesn’t have enough power, I think There's something wrong with my generator, who knows?

It seems to me that they are lying. Is the relay on the left under the steering wheel clicking?

What kind of relay is it exactly?

I think no. Check the fuse and ALL connectors!

I drive a Lada Granta. Hi all. There was the same problem. The icon flashed and the K4 (ignition switch) relay clicked on turns and on bumps. I redid everything, changed the speed sensor, it didn’t help, I disassembled the steering column, the wires and connectors were normal. The car is almost 4 years old. I solved the problem by cleaning the contacts on the battery, the ground terminal on the thermostat, and the positive terminal on the starter. Now everything is fine. I think it will help someone.

I have the exact same problem. We should also try to clean everything up. What does it have to do with just the mass on the thermostat?

Not the thermostat. There is a male-female connector on the starter, clean them. It is the wire from the ignition switch that, when there is poor contact, clicks the ignition switch relay and therefore the electric amplifier lights up. And the thermostat is just a mass. Oxidized terminals can be cleaned well with ammonia.

I drive a Lada Granta. Hi all. There was the same problem. The icon flashed and the K4 (ignition switch) relay clicked on turns and on bumps. I redid everything, changed the speed sensor, it didn’t help, I disassembled the steering column, the wires and connectors were normal. The car is almost 4 years old. I solved the problem by cleaning the contacts on the battery, the ground terminal on the thermostat, and the positive terminal on the starter. Now everything is fine. I think it will help someone.

Same topic. It also manifested itself as: you turn on the ignition, everything seems to be normal, but the headlights do not turn on and the starter is silent. Everything else lights up and works. The solution to the problem is the same: cleaning the oxidized contacts on the battery, on ground and on the starter, which is the funny thing - on the starter it is more critical, when there was no time to clean the contacts - I just pulled the wire on the power starter and everything worked.

Reasons for shutdown

The main reason lies in the electric power steering. When ignited, the system performs a self-diagnosis and if the mechanism does not pass it, a signal is turned on indicating a malfunction. The color of the signal indicates the degree of danger. The light turns red, the problem needs to be fixed urgently. If the color is yellow, the vehicle can be operated, but safety precautions should be taken. There may be several reasons why the electric power steering on Kalina does not work:

  • speed sensor malfunction;
  • torque sensor malfunction;
  • speed exceeds 60 km/h;
  • engine speed is less than 400 per minute;
  • failure in the control unit;
  • poorly soldered contacts;
  • insufficient tension.

Software shutdown

  1. The electric power steering on Kalina turns off after 60 km/h. Therefore, keep this point in mind; it is set in the system unit and is not a breakdown. The Priora's electric power steering is switched off at a speed of 110 km/h.
  2. Also, the EUR does not work at low engine speeds. If the value is less than 400 rpm, it is not active.

This is software planned inactivity. It is needed to give information to the steering wheel at high speed and reduce wear of the mechanism.

Electrical booster malfunctions

In the event that it is impossible to immediately check the cause of failure of the electric power steering on Kalina, you need to remove the fuse from the block. This is necessary to prevent sudden activation of the mechanism, which leads to emergency situations.

Disadvantages of power steering and electric power steering

Many car owners prefer installing electric power steering on the VAZ 2114 as a replacement for the standard power steering. However, is such a decision justified from a practical point of view?


Connection

To answer this question, it is necessary to consider not only the positive aspects of this or that amplifier, which we have already done, but also point out their main disadvantages.

What is better for the VAZ 2114? Let's try to figure this out.

  1. The hydraulic booster does not allow additional fuel savings, but the efficiency of the electric booster is sometimes too low.
  2. The hydraulic booster has a weak element - the pump. He has to be checked regularly to monitor his condition. It so happens that on the VAZ 2114 this component is not reliable.

With this short list the list of shortcomings can be completed. But it is worth paying attention to some nuances.

Removing the electric amplifier

  1. If you decide to repair the electric power steering, then first of all you need to dismantle the steering column switches. Next, you need to disconnect all the blocks with wires from the control panel - if you need to remove the ignition switch, then to do this you need to unscrew three self-tapping screws. A Phillips screwdriver is used for this.
  2. After completing these steps, you can dismantle the lower cross member of the control panel. To do this, press the clips that secure the wire block, and then disconnect them from the system control unit. Only after these steps can you disconnect the block from the switches themselves.
  3. The bracket itself is fixed with several nuts, they are unscrewed.
  4. The entire steering column must be carefully lowered. You need to find the screw that secures the cardan to the assembly shaft. This screw is unscrewed, while you need to hold the nut to prevent it from turning. After dismantling the screw, the terminal clamp must be released, then the intermediate shaft is carefully removed. To prevent installation problems, the location of the shaft, as well as gears, must be marked with a marker. If the marks on the shafts are not aligned, this will lead to problems with the system. When removing the electric amplifier, do not damage the wiring under any circumstances.
  5. As for installation, the procedure is carried out in reverse order (the author of the video is Murzik Bely).

Also check out

  1. Remove the frame along with the filter and remove the old filter.
  1. Place the frame from the previous filter onto the new filter and install it in its original place. You can use a cabin filter from Lada Kalina
    .

The old filter looked like this:

Reassemble in reverse order. If no problems arise, you managed to replace the cabin filter of the Lada Granta yourself

.

Installing an EUR on a Granta Standard is a common reason for the owners of these cars to contact a car service center. However, with proper skill, you can easily do everything yourself. Read the article about how to install such a system if you have a Lada Granta and whether it’s worth doing it at all.

Major failures of the EUR

Experienced drivers and Prior owners can observe the following trend - breakdowns occur in the same parts, weak points of the system. Why is this happening?

The first thing you need to pay attention to is the operation of the electric power steering. After the system has been completely turned off, a code should appear on the on-board computer - it reports the cause of the breakdown. Each code has its own interpretation. However, very often the real reason for the cessation of operation of the amplifier can be determined only after a full diagnosis has been carried out. In order to find out about the nature of the breakdown of the Lada Priora electric power steering, do the following:

  1. The engine is turned off and the steering wheel is turned a couple of times.
  2. The engine turns on and the steering wheel turns several times.

The absence of changes in the applied efforts is a sure indicator that the power steering is disabled.

It is quite possible to drive with the system turned off, but it is not recommended. It is very difficult to understand the features of control with and without an electric booster. Therefore, it is better to perform a diagnosis. It will help determine which component has failed, whether it can be repaired or whether it is better to replace it with a new one.

Sometimes you can observe the following situation: the speedometer and the sensor stop functioning at the same time. This most often occurs due to a malfunction of the speed sensor. The sensor provides data to the control unit, which processes the information on the speedometer and determines the supply of the required amount of force.

If the cause of the breakdown is the sensor, the solution to the problem is simple. It is enough to check the quality of the wires and, if necessary, replace them with new ones. If the wires are in good condition, it is recommended to replace the sensor itself.

Stopping the operation of the electric power steering can also occur due to insufficient voltage. This occurs due to violations of the wire insulation - short circuits can occur. For the same reason, the generator stops working. The sensor has a huge number of wires, which over time can become dusty or clogged. In this case, you need to disassemble it and carry out “general cleaning”.

Fuse removal process

If, during smooth and smooth movement forward, the car turns sharply to the side, it is recommended to carry out unscheduled diagnostics. After all, such unpredictable behavior of the Priora’s electric power steering will not happen without emergency situations. Park and unplug the unit: Disconnect the fuse to stop power supply to the amplifier.

Malfunctions and their symptoms

Undoubtedly, the electric booster is a more reliable unit than a device running on hydraulics, but malfunctions also appear in the power steering. If they are detected, repairs must be carried out immediately, since the safety of the driver, his companions and other road users depends on the operation of the amplifier.

Complete failure of the EUR

As practice shows, this unit does not have many faults; breakdowns occur in the same parts. The first thing worth considering is the complete failure of the ESD. When you turn off the amplifier, you need to check the on-board computer screen; most likely, you will see a code there indicating a malfunction in the unit. But sometimes it is possible to determine when an amplifier is turned off only in practice.

We perform the following actions:

  1. Turn off the engine and turn the steering wheel in different directions several times;
  2. We repeat these steps, but with the engine running;
  3. Has the steering effort changed? This means the node has completely shut down.

Even with the ESD not working, you can continue driving, but this is not recommended. The driver needs time to get used to driving with the help of an amplifier. It is better to immediately begin diagnostics and determine which component requires repair or replacement.

Sometimes the amplifier and speedometer stop working at the same time. The cause of this defect is a speed sensor that has failed. Taking a look at the electrical diagram, you will understand that these three elements are connected. The torque sensor supplies data to the control unit, it compares it with speed and determines the force. If the cause is the speed sensor, then the repair consists of checking the wiring that leads to this element. It is also worth checking the wires connecting the sensor to the speedometer and power steering. If there are no breaks in the switching, then the sensor should be changed.

How to tighten the electric power steering rack?

The appearance of a knocking sound in the operation of the electric power steering is associated with the need to tighten the steering rack.

How to do it right:

  1. First you need to disconnect the battery; to do this, disconnect the terminals from it. Unscrew the battery mount; to do this, you need to unscrew two more nuts located at the edges. After this, the battery is removed and put aside.
  2. Then you need to lift the plastic stand, there are four more screws under it, they can also be unscrewed.
  3. Having done this, it is necessary to move this stand forward until the platform is disconnected from the air filter housing retainer pad. After this, the trim can be moved back, this will provide freer access to the rail itself.
  4. At the next stage, you will need to crawl your hand under the rail. Directly below it, as shown in the photo, there is a rubberized cap; it will need to be removed, this will allow the key to access the adjusting nut.
  5. To perform adjustment work, you will need a special wrench to tighten the rack; without it, the adjustment procedure will not be possible. Using this wrench, you need to crawl under the car rail to install the tool in the required hole.
  6. When adjusting, be careful not to overtighten the rack. If its tightening is very strong, then when cornering the rack will bite, and this, in turn, may affect the safety of movement. The angle of adjustment is always different, it depends on how much the nut is loose, but usually when performing such work the nut is tightened by approximately 30 degrees. This should be enough to get everything right. After the adjustment is completed, it will be necessary to check that this task was performed correctly. That is, you will need to make sure that the steering wheel turns normally to any position all the way and there is no knocking. If the knock remains, then the adjustment continues.

Photo gallery “Adjusting the steering rack”

How to check the EUR yourself

To understand what is broken in the amplifier, you need to diagnose it. Not every car owner has a diagnostic scanner; some people like to repair the car themselves. In this case, you can determine the malfunction of the electric amplifier yourself using a paper clip. This option is suitable for Kalina and Priora cars.

"Paperclip" method

We disassemble the protective cover of the steering column and get to the amplifier control unit. We find a black block with six wires. It is necessary to close contacts 7 and 6 between each other - “ground” and “K-line”. If you look at the block from the side of the wires, then the countdown goes from right to left, from top to bottom. You need a brown wire - contact number 7 and an empty socket, not used - number 6 in a row.

Turn off the ignition, insert a paper clip into the contacts, make sure that it does not short-circuit the other wires. Turn on the ignition and count the number of flashes of the warning light on the dashboard. One long signal, and then several short ones, these are the ones that need to be counted. Let's look at the decoding of fault codes for Kalina's electric booster :

  1. One short one – the system is working;
  2. Two - No signals from the engine speed sensor;
  3. Three – The torque sensor is faulty;
  4. Four – Electric motor failure;
  5. Five – There is no signal from the steering shaft position sensor;
  6. Six – The rotor position sensor is faulty;
  7. Seven – Low voltage on-board network;
  8. Eight – EUR control unit;
  9. Nine – Vehicle speed sensor.

In practice, this method may not always show real breakdowns. In this method, the control unit checks itself, and it needs to be checked under load. There were cases when it generated false errors, and the fault was hidden in the electric power steering ECU.

Mechanical failures of the EUR

Why, exactly, did we remove the EUR? Diagnostics of the electrical part of the device did not reveal any problems, which means that we need to look for the cause of its malfunctions in the mechanics, which may be as follows:

  • Worn or clogged drive elements or worm gear;
  • Wear of the support bearing of the worm shaft of the electric drive;
  • Other signs indicating destruction or wear of ESD parts.

In such cases, it is necessary to replace the worn part, if possible, trying to understand the factors that influenced this result of the amplifier's operation, or, in critical cases, buy a new electric amplifier.

How to keep the EUR in working condition longer?

Despite the fact that you can remove the EUR yourself in a garage, without special tools and special skills, this procedure is not quick, because There is no way to quickly get to this device. Therefore, motorists are interested in a simple question - how to avoid the need to repair or change the EUR. The answer is obvious - you need to extend its service life. To do this you will have to adhere to the following rules:

  • Never move away if the steering wheel is in one and the extreme positions. It is also not recommended to leave the steering wheel in this position for a long time, even without moving;
  • Do not hold the steering wheel for more than 4-5 seconds in extreme positions, even if parking or turning requires it. It is better to make the necessary maneuvers;
  • Pay attention to sounds coming from the electric amplifier;
  • Clean contacts and moving mechanisms from dirt;
  • Pay attention to the condition of the wiring and terminals if they come into view when checking other technical systems;
  • Carry out diagnostics of this node more often.

Common causes of electrical amplifier failure and risks

Electric power steering stops functioning under certain circumstances for a variety of reasons:

  1. Due to increased humidity, the electric motor and fuse may fail, so it is important to prevent these negative factors from occurring.
  2. The voltage regulator should produce a voltage of 13.6-14.4 Volts when the generator is running. At lower values, the electronic power steering control unit will not work.
  3. Due to a blown fuse, which must be identified by checking the integrity of the internal thread and replaced if necessary.
  4. If the ECU fails, it can overheat under the influence of high temperatures from the radiator of the heating system.
  5. If the voltage in the on-board vehicle network is too low. This may be due to a weak battery or malfunctioning car charging system.
  6. Situations arise when the electric power steering turns off while the vehicle is moving. The cause of such phenomena is the failure of the motion sensor. As a result, the ECU does not receive the necessary information and does not turn on the device.

To correct the situation, you need to clean the outer surface. In addition, you should check the contacts and wiring. If such measures do not lead to the desired result, then you will need to replace the sensor itself, which can be purchased at an affordable price at a car store.


When stopping the operation of the power steering after starting the on-board computer with the ignition on, you need to pull out the fuse located to the left of the steering wheel. This will prevent the device from turning on unexpectedly while driving and causing an emergency. After this, it is best to immediately seek professional help from a car workshop.

Relay block Lada Granta

The relays are located in the same fuse and relay box, which is located to the left of the steering column under the cover.

K1 - heater fan relay

K2 - power window relay . If they do not work, also check fuse F2; if this does not help, then the problem may be in the control unit.

K3 - starter relay . If it does not work (does not turn) and this relay is working, check the battery charge level. It could also be a problem with the retractor or the ignition switch and its contacts.

K4 - ignition switch terminal 15 relay

K5 - turn signal and hazard warning relay . If the turn signals come on and do not turn off, this relay may be shorted. Also check fuse F3 (emergency mode).

K6 - windshield wiper relay . Check also fuse F4.

K7 - high beam relay . Also check fuses F14 and F15 and the lamps themselves.

K8 - horn relay . Also check fuse F20, signal switch contacts on the steering wheel.

K9 - low beam relay . Also check fuses F12 and F13 and the lamps themselves.

K10 - rear window heating relay . If the heating does not work, the problem may be in fuse F8.

K11 - engine control unit relay . Also check fuse F1.

K12 - electric fuel pump relay . Also check fuse F21.

Fuse box

The weak link of the electric power steering on Kalina is the fuse box; if something doesn’t work, it’s worth checking them. To get to them, you need to open the dashboard, to the left of the steering wheel. To do this, pull the top part towards you and the latch will open.

Check if the fuse is working, if it fails, replace it. It is very easy to check, check the integrity of the thread inside the fuse. Changing a 50 amp relay to a 30 amp one will also help.

Newer versions of Kalina are equipped with electric amplifiers from Hyundai, which has a positive effect on its reliability. However, there are still thousands of cars with the domestic version, which malfunctions and breaks down from time to time. Now it will be easier for you to repair the electric power steering on Kalina yourself. The main thing to remember is that not every amplifier shutdown is a breakdown. And you can find the problem yourself and fix it, but somewhere you will have to go to a service center.

Electric power steering for modern cars has already become an integral part of them. On the Russian market it was first installed on the Lada Kalina ( VAZ 1118 ). The electric booster added both a lot of positive emotions and a lot of negative ones. Failure of this unit occurs quite often on the first samples. Our guest today was no exception – a car from the Lada “Kalina” family (Fig. 1).

The situation is quite typical: the client complains that sometimes the electric power steering turns off and the electric power steering warning light comes on, but after driving along some hole or rails, the electromechanical power steering (EMUR or EPS) resumes its operation.

This situation is very annoying, because not only the owner uses the car, but also his wife. It is much more problematic for a woman to turn the steering wheel without electric power assistance.

We start the car, and the electric power steering fault light actually lights up and it becomes quite difficult to turn the steering wheel. It is imperative to deal with this problem.

We connect the diagnostic scanner and connect to the EMUR control unit.

On the monitor screen we see the following error: C1044 – incorrect sequence of the rotor position sensor. What is a rotor position sensor and where is it located?

Electrical faults of the electric booster

When troubleshooting electrical problems, be sure to remove the terminal from the battery. This procedure must be performed during any electrical work in the car.

Operation failure

It happens that when you turn the key in the ignition switch, the icon indicating a malfunction in the EUR turns on again. A possible malfunction is a breakdown of the amplifier drive motor. It is possible to fix such a malfunction yourself if you have electrical knowledge. If you are unable to repair the electric motor, it is recommended to replace it with another one.

Operation failure may also occur in the following cases:

  • The fuse has blown. However, it is recommended to replace the fuse only after eliminating the cause of its blown. The fuse is designed to protect the electrical circuit from short circuits. When the wires are shorted, they heat up and the fuse link melts, breaking the electrical circuit. There is probably an overlap of wires in the circuit and their further short circuit. Eliminate the cause and only then change the fuse.
  • Poor contact at the connections, resulting in a lack of power in the amplifier circuit. Correct the contacts or clean the wire connections.

Speed ​​sensor

One of the most vulnerable elements of the system is the speed sensor. This is an electrical device that is designed to control the electric drive of the amplifier at various speeds.

The fact is that using ESD at high speed can cause an accident, since the slightest rotation of the steering wheel will lead to the car being driven off the road. This sensor reads the speedometer and, as speed increases, weakens the power steering effect. Thus, it turns out that at high speed the power steering operates in the same way as when using a mechanical amplifier.

The main malfunction of the sensor is its failure. If the sensor fails, the amplifier circuit does not receive speedometer readings and the amplifier is turned off. After this, a special icon on the instrument panel lights up (steering wheel with an exclamation mark). In this mode, the amplifier operates without an electric drive and does not interfere with the steering. In this case, you just need to remove fuse F31 in the block to the left of the steering wheel to completely disconnect the circuit before replacing the speed sensor.

Ultimately, to fix this problem, you just need to change the speed sensor.

Electric power steering repair. The advantage of EUR over power steering

Regarding the hydraulic booster, the EUR has the following advantages:

  • compactness;
  • independence from temperature changes;
  • efficiency;
  • easy maintenance, simple setup;
  • installation variability.

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One of the main disadvantages of the system is the relatively high cost of repairs if significant problems occur. In most cases, serious costs can be avoided if you contact a car service in a timely manner, without postponing a visit to specialists for many weeks and months.

In most cases, it is not possible to properly repair the EUR on your own. All measures taken, including a complete replacement of the system, require preliminary diagnostics. To prevent electrical power steering repairs from leading to new defects, you should immediately seek help from specialized car services.

Do you want to contact professionals, but don't know who to contact? Then we will help you! By leaving a request on this website indicating the repair of the electric power steering and a description of the characteristics of the car, you can find a competent specialist in the shortest possible time. Our site operates on an auction system: many car services will compete for your order, trying to offer the best conditions; the final choice is always yours!

Electric power steering repair

As a rule, the fact of a malfunction of the EUR is promptly reported by the corresponding indicator located on the dashboard. In this case, the hydraulic booster may well continue to function properly, but you should not put off a visit to a specialized car service: driving a car with a faulty power steering is not only prohibited, but also life-threatening. By contacting specialists in a timely manner, the car owner will be able to order professional diagnostics, which will help determine the main specifics of the problem.

A significantly heavier steering wheel is another symptom that may require electric power steering repair.

Cleaning injector nozzles

If ultrasonic cleaning is carried out by an inexperienced specialist, then the work performed may be negative.

Let's look at the most common EPS defects, which may require electric power steering repair.

Damage to the electric power steering motor. The rotation of the steering wheel is accompanied by continuous operation of the motor, which can significantly reduce the driver’s efforts, so breakdowns of the mechanism are quite possible. In most cases, high-quality repair and restoration measures allow you to return the engine to a fully serviceable condition, however, in difficult situations, only replacing it will help solve the problem.

Malfunction of the electronic control unit. The ECU includes an electronic circuit that is responsible for the operation of the EUR, so a breakdown of one system may be immediately followed by a breakdown of another.

Electrical wiring defects. Typically, this problem occurs in cases where the integrity of individual connectors and connections has been compromised. To fix this problem, you need to carefully check the condition of the wires and contacts.

Some ESD defects may not be able to be confirmed without the use of special equipment. In addition, it can be very difficult to unequivocally confirm a system malfunction without relevant experience. When you first suspect that there is a problem with the ESD, you should seek help from qualified specialists.

Diagnostics

To check the amplifier in a car, you need to remove the plastic trim on the steering column; to do this, unscrew the bolts securing it from the bottom.

Then you will need to get to the 8-pin plug, its pinout is as follows:

More accurate results will be obtained by checking the amplifier using a scanner. But since such equipment can usually only be found at service stations, you can try to check the operation of the system with a paper clip.

To check you need to do the following:

How to understand where to look for the cause by the blinking indicator icons:

Error codes

It doesn’t happen, the alternative is to take it apart, the price of a new one is more than 20 thousand rubles

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