Does a Chevrolet Niva have an 80 amp generator?

The generator has to be replaced not only when it malfunctions. Sometimes, after installing additional electrical equipment, the current strength of the standard generator may not be enough, so they are looking for a more powerful replacement. Let's find out which generator for Niva 4x4 is better to choose.

The generator model installed on an SUV depends on the year of manufacture of the vehicle and engine. On the very first Nivas with an engine capacity of 1.6 liters, a generator from the “classics” was installed with a remote voltage regulator. On later models, the voltage regulator is already built into the generator. Generator pulley for mono V-belt.

Generator Chevrolet Niva

A generator is an important part of any car, which is responsible for its power supply.
With the help of this unit, it is possible to provide a continuous supply of electricity to all components, various systems and sensors, making its operation possible. On the car, a unit with article number 9412.3701 is used as a standard generator. Such a generator can also be found on the injector of the VAZ-21214, VAZ-2131, VAZ-2123.

If the generator on a Chevrolet Niva fails, you can replace it with analogues, the most popular of which are presented in the table.

A generator for a Chevrolet Niva costs between 5,000 and 7,000 rubles. The price of the original unit depends on the region of purchase. Many owners prefer to use Start Volt at 120 amperes when the factory generator fails.

Generator type 9402.3701-01 alternating current (installed on Chevrolet Niva produced after the fall of 2003), three-phase, with a built-in rectifier unit and electronic voltage regulator, right-hand rotation (drive side).

NOTE Chevrolet Niva, produced before the fall of 2003, was equipped with a generator type 9412.3701, which was also installed on the injection VAZ 21214, VAZ 2131, VAZ 2123 until the fall of 2003.

NOTE: The generator installed on the vehicle used for photography is driven by a V-belt. Repair work is shown using the example of a generator with a multi-belt pulley. All elements of both generators, except for the pulleys, are absolutely identical.

The generator armature is driven into rotation from the crankshaft pulley by a V-belt or (depending on the version) by a poly-V-belt.

Rice. 9.3. Generator 9402.3701-01: 1 - rectifier unit; 2 — bearing sleeve; 3 — rear bearing of the rotor shaft; 4 — slip rings; 5 — protective sleeve; 6 — terminal “B” of the generator; 7 — gasket; 8 — casing; 9 — voltage regulator with brush holder; 10 - coupling screw; 11 — back cover; 12 - stator; 13 — front cover; 14 — spacer ring; 15 — front bearing; 16 - pulley; 17 — washer; 18 - rotor.

Stator 12 (Fig. 9.3) and covers 11 and 13 are tightened with four screws. The rotor shaft 18 rotates in bearings 3 and 15, which are installed in the covers. Power is supplied to the rotor winding (excitation winding) through brushes and slip rings 4.

The three-phase alternating current induced in the stator winding is converted into direct current by a rectifier unit 1 attached to the cover 11. The electronic voltage regulator 9 is combined into one unit with a brush holder and is also attached to the cover 11.

Rice. 9.4. Generator system connection diagram: 1 - battery; 2 - generator; 3 - battery charge indicator lamp located in the instrument cluster; 4 — mounting block; 5 - ignition switch.

The generator connection diagram is shown in Fig. 9.4. The voltage to excite the generator when the ignition is turned on is supplied to terminal “D” of the regulator (terminal “D” of the generator) through indicator lamp 3 located in the instrument cluster. After starting the engine, the excitation winding is powered by three additional diodes installed on the generator rectifier block.

The “W” output of the generator is not used on vehicles of the BA3-2123 family. The operation of the generator is controlled by a warning lamp in the instrument cluster. When the ignition is turned on, the lamp should be on, and after starting the engine, it should go out if the generator is working. A brightly lit lamp or glowing at full intensity indicates a malfunction.

How to find out if the generator is faulty

When operating a Niva Chevrolet, certain difficulties and malfunctions sometimes arise. During a trip or long-term use of a car, various problems arise, and one of them is the failure of the generator.

Diagnosing a breakdown is quite simple. There are several manipulations that can be used to determine the need for repairs:

• The corresponding light on the dashboard lights up, indicating that the battery is constantly discharged.

• The battery drains quickly when the engine is running.
• The brightness of the light decreases as the engine speed increases. In this case, it is necessary to replace the generator brushes.

And also interesting: Chevrolet Niva speedometer does not work.
All of the listed signs indicate that the generator urgently needs to be replaced or repaired.

A simple way to diagnose an engine using the oil filler neck

Auto mechanics rightfully consider the oil filler neck to be the “mirror” of the entire engine. This part of the engine is as accessible as possible for a quick inspection and allows you to identify a number of faults without opening it. Fixing problems early allows you to save a lot on repairs later. That is why I decided to talk about how to diagnose an engine using the oil filler neck without using specialized equipment.

Many car owners use the oil filler neck exclusively to add engine oil. At the same time, auto mechanics recommend inspecting this area at least occasionally even if there are no noticeable problems with the engine

.
Early diagnosis of a malfunction will make it possible to get rid of it with a quick and inexpensive repair
, rather than having to overhaul the entire engine later.

First, you should inspect the oil filler cap. Many car enthusiasts notice a white emulsion

and they start sounding the alarm.
A similar liquid in color and consistency is formed inside the engine when antifreeze mixes with engine oil through a broken cylinder head gasket. However, a white coating on the oil filler cap does not indicate such a problem
.
As a rule, an emulsion is formed as a result of condensation. The oil filler cap is usually located at the top of the engine, so this is where the maximum amount of condensate accumulates
.

Now we look into the oil filler neck itself and evaluate the surfaces for the presence of deposits

.
Car owners often encounter the formation of dark, thick contaminants that look like fuel oil. A similar phenomenon is associated with the use of low-quality oil or its untimely replacement
. In such a situation, it is advisable to flush the engine with a good flushing oil the next time you change the engine oil.

Next, you need to tighten the oil filler cap and start the engine. With the engine warm, unscrew the cap again and observe unnatural phenomena. Worn out engines can usually be identified by smoke coming out of the oil filler neck.

.
This phenomenon is associated with incorrect operation of the crankcase gas exhaust system. The situation can be corrected by cleaning the valve or replacing structural components, but in practice, car owners forget about the problem and drive like this for a very long time. It is advisable to still think about troubleshooting, otherwise the engine life will gradually decrease
.

Smell of unburned gasoline from the oil filler neck

may indicate that the air-fuel mixture is too rich or the fuel pump is faulty.
In this case, it is advisable to carry out a full diagnosis of the car, since it is impossible to determine the exact cause of the phenomenon by smell
.

Source

Generator replacement

When problems are detected in the operation of the generator, most Chevrolet Niva owners turn to specialized service stations, where professionals carry out high-quality diagnostics of the vehicle and quickly deal with the problem.

However, if necessary, you can change the generator yourself if you know the structure of the car and prepare the necessary tools. In addition, it is better to familiarize yourself with the replacement algorithm in advance.

To change the generator on a Chevrolet Niva, you will need to follow a few fairly simple steps.

• First of all, you should take care of the safety of the work being carried out. To do this, you need to put the car in a repair place, turn off the engine and remove the terminals from the battery.
• The next step is to remove the wire from the contact bolt, which is located on the rear panel of the generator. You will also need to remove the block from the assembly that secures the brushes.

• After this, you should begin dismantling the alternator belt. The belt is tensioned using a special plate called a tensioner. You can adjust the tension using the fastening bolts; they need to be loosened. The plate is located in the area of ​​the tension roller and is attached to the structure with three bolts. To unscrew them, you need to take an open-end wrench for two bolts, and use a wrench to loosen the third.

• Next, all that remains is to remove the belt and unscrew the generator mounting bolts. There are only two bolts - top and bottom, but they are massive, and you will need a wrench for a large diameter. If the bolts will not turn, you will need to hold them from behind.

When the bolts are unscrewed, all that remains is to dismantle the generator and begin installing a new one.

The belt is part of the transmission system between the engine and the generator, so its condition directly affects the operation of the generator set. During operation, it may break, which will stop the production of current in the machine. This should not be allowed, so if it is damaged, it must be replaced with a new one. To replace, you will need the following tools:

• mount;
• screwdriver;
• a set of keys;
• jack to lift the car.

The replacement process is as follows:

1. Disconnect the battery, then use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the crankshaft sensor fasteners.
2. Loosen the belt fastening nut.
3. Place the right side of the car under a jack, raise it, and engage 4th gear.
4. We rotate the right wheel and first pull the belt off the pump pulley.
5. We install the new one in the reverse order. The belt is placed on the crankshaft pulley and only at the end is secured to the generator.
6. We rotate the wheel so that the belt is tensioned and takes the desired position.
7. The fastening nut is tightened. The crankshaft sensor is installed.
8. The belt is placed on the part in this order: crankshaft, then the upper tension roller, the lower right pulley, the lower tension roller, pump, generator.

Checking the condition of the engine using the oil filler cap

Agree that when you come to inspect the car you like, you are unlikely to measure compression, oil pressure and timing chain tension on the spot. But checking in the service is not free, it takes time, and the owners (for obvious reasons) do not particularly like this procedure. However, you can roughly understand the condition of the piston without service, literally in the yard.

Verification procedure

Everything is elementary. Start the engine and unscrew the oil filler cap. And then there are possible options.

Option number one: nothing special happens.

And by placing a piece of paper on the oil filling hole, you can watch how it slightly sticks to it. This is a good sign. You can inspect the car further (you should prepare a list of items to check in advance). However, the probability of encountering such an idyllic picture on a middle-aged engine is approximately equal to the probability of encountering the crew of a flying saucer. But anything can happen, what if you are lucky?

It's already worse, but in general, it's expected.
Now we place the lid itself on the neck. Just put it on the hole as tightly as possible. The lid twitches, but does not fly off
. And this is the most likely outcome of events. In the absence of other negative factors (smoke or oil splashes), you can already put on a sad face and tell the seller that “the ventilation is all over, and maybe there’s no compression at all. "Remember this phrase - it will come in handy. Well, then - the classic auction and further inspection of the car with passion.

Option number three: something incomprehensible is happening.

Namely: smoke comes from the engine neck, or worse, oil splashes.
The attached cover comes off even at idle. And here there is nothing more to talk about. You screw it back in, shake the seller’s hand and leave. No options.

And what is the result?

Those who carefully read my blog can already guess. For those who don’t read carefully, I recommend reading this article

, where I described in detail the essence of the VKG system. Therefore, I’ll simply state: firstly, a strong “blowing” from the neck indicates a clogged crankcase ventilation. This may be bad, but it can be solved independently (see below). But what’s worse is that this is a symptom of an active breakthrough of gases into the crankcase itself. From there they are already rushing out with all their might through any hole, which you can observe with the oil filler cap removed. Needless to say, in this case, replacing the piston rings and disassembling the engine is the best option for further developments. And the worst is banal capital. Moreover, you will only find out the price during the process. And you shouldn’t be surprised that it can easily amount to up to a third of the price of a car purchased “without looking”.

Below is a personal example of how to clean the ventilation system built into the valve cover.

Source

Installing a new generator

The algorithm for installing a new generator is practically no different from dismantling the old one, only all steps are performed in reverse order. So, the car owner will need:

• Screw the assembly to the engine by turning and fixing two bolts - upper and lower. At the same time, there is no need to tighten them too much, since then the belt still needs to be tensioned.

• Install a new V-ribbed repair on the pulleys. You need to put it on with a little effort and go around the pulleys in the following sequence: hydraulic pump pulley, roller, crankshaft pulley, power steering pulley, roller, generator pulley.
• Tension the belt by tightening the adjustment bolt and the special plate. It is important that the belt deflection in the upper free part does not exceed or be less than 15-16 mm.

Then all that remains is to tighten the three bolts of the bottom plate and check that the power source is secure.

Generator connection

Replacing the generator is only half the battle. It is also important to connect it correctly to the circuit source. Before connecting, you need to complete the work on the front and rear panels of the unit, only after that you can connect the terminals to the battery.

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The contacts must be clean during connection. If contamination is detected, it can be removed using special cleaners. Also, the terminals on the battery must be tightened, otherwise the oxidation process will begin on their surface.

If everything was done correctly, then when you start the engine, the light on the dashboard indicating a low battery charge should go out. However, experts recommend, just in case, checking the operation of the generator using a multimeter by measuring the voltage at the terminals.

Thus, in order to avoid any serious problems with the generator during the operation of the Chevrolet Niva, it is important to undergo a technical inspection on time and repair the components of this unit.

Nuances

To transfer, you will need a set of keys, a bracket, mounting bolts, and a V-belt. You can make a generator transfer bracket with your own hands according to the drawing below.

Drawing of a homemade bracket

Sequence of actions during transfer:

• We dismantle the propeller, pump and remove the belt.
• By unscrewing the standard bracket, you can remove the generator.
• We cut off the bead around the side of the cylinder head and on the cylinder block.
• Then you should unscrew the two bolts and two studs.
• Next, the assembly is installed on a new bracket and final assembly is performed.

Thus, moving the generator unit upstairs is not difficult.

When replacing a generator with a Niva 21213, 2121, 21214, a number of subtleties arise, and one of them is the location of the generator unit. It is located at the bottom of the engine compartment.

Actually, this is why problems arise with the operation of the structure: while driving, various contaminants get on the generator, and coolant drips. If you don’t want to constantly change the generator unit, it is recommended to move it upstairs.

To ensure that no problems arise during the operation of the car, it is important to monitor the condition of the car. First of all, it is recommended to regularly inspect the generator.

Timely inspection will help to avoid unpleasant situations in the form of breakdowns of the constituent elements of the generator, and as a result, failure of entire electrical systems.

How does a Chevrolet Niva generator work?

The vehicle's on-board network has two power sources. The role of the first of them is performed by the battery, but its functions are very limited. It powers the network before the engine starts, and also powers some elements of the engine control system while it is running.

The Chevrolet Niva generator performs an additional function by charging the battery. If the elements of the electrical circuit operate properly, the car can remain energy-independent and autonomous throughout the entire period of engine operation.

The basic design of the generator on cars of the VAZ family is a combination of a moving and a fixed part. The rotor is a moving element that acts as an electromagnet. It consists of a magnetic circuit in the grooves of which the winding is laid. The stator, that is, the stationary part, is made in the form of a ring.

1. A pulley that transmits torque from the crankshaft to the rotor.
2. Housing consisting of front and rear covers;
3. Sleeve;
4. Rotor
5. Stator;
6. A rectifier block or diode bridge consisting of six semiconductor diodes;
7. Voltage regulator combined with brush holder into one unit;
8. Sleeve;
9. Pad;
10. Casing.

Each component part is a consumable item, so the generator must be disassembled and repaired. It must be emphasized that the Chevrolet Niva's current source differs from similar units of other cars only in the geometry of the housing and the method of its installation in the engine compartment.

Generator type 9402.3701-01 alternating current, three-phase, with built-in rectifier unit and electronic voltage regulator, right rotation (drive side). Generator Niva Chevrolet 9402.3701-01: 1 – rectifier unit; 2 – bearing sleeve; 3 – rear bearing of the rotor shaft; 4 – slip rings;

The Niva Chevrolet voltage that occurs in the car system maintains the functionality of all electronic devices of the vehicle. The electricity generation system within the machine has its own characteristics, which are worth learning about before various breakdowns occur. First, you should familiarize yourself with the node that creates electricity.

Design Features

A standard generator for AvtoVAZ JSC cars consists of the following elements:

1. Back and front covers.
2. Air intake.
3. Brush holder.
4. Rectifier block.
5. Stator.
6. Capacitor.
7. Voltage regulator.
8. Pulley.
9. Rotor.

Some electric generators do not have a built-in voltage regulator. For example, this element is missing in generators for the VAZ-2101.

General characteristics of the generator

On Chevrolet Niva cars, the manufacturer installs an alternating current generator of type 37.3701 with a three-phase circuit.

The generator has the following technical characteristics:

• The maximum current when the engine operates at 5000 rpm is 55A;
• Output voltage – 14.1 V with an error of 0.5 V;
• The maximum permissible rotation speed is 13,000 rpm;
• The ratio of engine speed to generator speed is 2:2.04.

Interchangeability of autogenerators

Interchangeability of generators for Lada cars is achieved if the following requirements are met:

• the main technical characteristics of the installed generator are not lower than those of the device being replaced;
• the gear ratio from the internal combustion engine to the generator is the same;
• the devices have similar electrical circuits;
• The new generator is suitable in terms of weight and dimensions and type of fasteners.

Most Russian-made automobile generators have a 2-leg mount. These fasteners are found on both covers. For equipment of foreign brands, installation is carried out using 1 paw, the fasteners are located on the front cover.

In order to correctly install and securely fasten a foreign generator in a car from AvtoVAZ, it is necessary to replace the bracket.

Principle of operation

The basis for obtaining electric current is the phenomenon of electromagnetic induction. It represents the occurrence of an induction current in a closed circuit under the condition of a change in the magnetic flux penetrating this circuit. There may be several ideas for implementing a generator set. It is enough to recall all the experiments on observing EMR.

But rational and technical components impose their limitations. It is irrational to use a permanent magnet as a source of magnetic field, since it will be impossible to regulate the magnetic flux. By changing the current strength in the electromagnet, you can ultimately influence the output parameters of the induction current.

The rotor includes not only the windings of the electromagnet, but also the shaft with slip rings. Thanks to the sliding contact of graphite brushes with slip rings, the movable winding is excited. Current is supplied to the voltage regulator through one of two circuits. Initially, when the engine is turned off, the winding is powered by the battery.

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The operation of the generator is monitored by turning on the lamp on the instrument panel.

When the device is operating, the potential at the generator contact and at the output of the diode bridge is the same, therefore, current cannot flow through the lamp. If the light is on, this means low voltage at the diode connector, which indicates a faulty power source. The rectified current powers the on-board network and recharges the battery.

Tools:

There seemed to be a service in the area where we worked. I'll give the car back and go to the office while they fix it. The charge was just enough to get to the box.

The last meters were walked by hand. The electrician came out and said in a menacing, confident voice that everything was full today and he couldn’t do it. But the problem was solved immediately by itself.

My property was already in a box and I couldn’t leave on my own. But the comrade who was supposed to come has not yet appeared. In general, they quickly diagnosed me that the diode bridge had burned out.

The auto parts were a block away from the service station. An hour later I was back on the wheels. Hooray!

Parts and consumables:

The diode bridge burned out photo from the network. When overcoming puddles, it will be much more difficult to fill it than the lower ones. So I started thinking, maybe I’ll install a more powerful generator, because I plan to install a trunk and, of course, a chandelier; I think 4 lamps from hella will fit in quite well.

Plus I will also install a winch, and it also drains the battery pretty badly.

And if the gene is weak, then when fighting off-road, we can get a situation where we are skidding in the dark, the chandelier is turned on, the engine is boiling - both fans are threshing at full strength, we are pulling with a winch - will the gene be enough for 80 amperes? Such energy consumption, of course, will not happen often, but when it happens, it’s better to be safe, isn’t it?

Removing the voltage regulator

If we consider the simplest closed circuit, which is placed in a time-varying magnetic field, then the induced emf in it is proportional to the rotation frequency of the electromagnet. Considering that a car engine operates at different frequencies, a device is needed to stabilize the output voltage. The role of this device is played by a voltage regulator located in the brush assembly.

The current flowing through the rotor winding is able to regulate the magnetic flux, hence the output voltage. When it exceeds 14.2 V, the transistor closes the excitation circuit. When the voltage drops to 13.5 V, the circuit is unlocked again.

The voltage regulator can be removed from the Niva Chevrolet for replacement using a flat-head screwdriver and a size 8 wrench. The procedure is as follows:

1. This is worth doing if the voltage in the system does not correspond to the norm - less than 13.5 V.
2. Disconnect the wire from the negative battery.
3. Disconnect the generator block with terminal D. Turn the rubber boot to the side and unscrew the nut.
4. Disconnect the wires from the stud.
5. Unscrew the nut securing the generator excitation circuit terminal, and then remove the terminal itself.
6. Loosen the 3 screw fastenings of the plastic casing of the generator set and remove the casing.
7. Next are 2 more fastening nuts that secure the voltage regulator.
8. We disconnect the screw securing the terminal to the D bus from the rectifier, after which you can finally remove the voltage regulator itself.

The generator on Niva works for a very long time and will remain in operation for several years without any problems. Over time, its power drops noticeably, then it is worth replacing several of its parts or the entire assembly. If after replacement the problem with a drop in power cannot be eliminated, you should go to a service center for diagnostics.

Stop over-tightening the oil filter.

Every time I buy another used car, I, like many of you, naturally immediately change all the fluids in the car, as well as all the filters. Including oil. In general, this is unnecessary maintenance, a guarantee that the car will last as long as possible. After all, you must agree that an honest car seller is a rarity these days. I have been convinced more than once that all owners need only one thing - to sell their car as quickly as possible. For this they are ready to do anything. So, “a big lie” about the last recent maintenance, in which all the fluids were allegedly changed, is a normal occurrence when communicating with a car owner.

You know, I bought a lot of cars on the secondary market. There were both good and bad. I admit, I have made the wrong choice more than once, buying outright rubbish. True, I was always lucky, I quickly got rid of unwanted cars. Moreover, I often gave away a car I didn’t need, even more expensive than I bought it for.

And you know what irritates me most about used cars during the first maintenance after purchase? Oil filters. You won't believe it, but every car I've ever purchased on the aftermarket had terribly tight oil filters, which caused me a lot of inconvenience. Yes, I understand that a loose filter can also turn into a whole problem. But this does not mean that when replacing it, the filter needs to be tightened as if it will remain in the engine forever.

Did you know that every part in a car must be tightened with a certain force? For this purpose, the automotive industry even has entire specifications that indicate the torque (force) required for reliable and correct fixation of parts, components and attachments of the car.

Of course, it is worth mentioning that it is not convenient to screw in oil filters on all cars. After all, it all depends on where its landing nest is located.

For example, on my 1992 Jeep Cherokee (photo above), the oil filter is in a very convenient location, allowing it to be easily accessed from above. It only takes a few minutes to unscrew the old filter and install the new one. The filter on this SUV screws in very easily.

But, for example, another one of my cars (Jeep Grand Wagoneer - pictured above) has a slightly different location of the oil filter. Therefore, if you screw the filter very tightly later, when replacing it with a new one, unscrewing the oil filter will not be so easy. Most likely, in this case, you will have to use a special tool for unscrewing oil filters to unscrew the filter, or adapt your home tool to a special filter puller. Agree, it is very inconvenient. This is what constantly irritates me when, after buying a used car, I change the engine oil along with the oil filter.

But that's only half the problem. In many cars, removing the oil filter can be a real hassle. Especially in those cars where the design of the engine compartment and engine does not provide easy access to the filter.

For example, the photo above is of the engine compartment of a 1995 Jeep Cherokee, which has an oil filter located very close to the engine.

Removing this filter from the engine is very difficult even with the help of tools, since the space between the filter is very small. The thing is that when you use a tool to unscrew the filter, you have virtually no room left to rotate the filter. In this case, many auto repairmen and car owners, when dismantling the old filter, get rid of it as best they can, using the dirty method that is so popular in our country: a flat screwdriver + a hammer.

For example, here's how to unscrew an old oil filter from a Nissan:

Why did I decide to raise this topic? As you can see, there are many cars in the automotive world that, due to their complex engine compartment design and engine features, have oil filters located in places that are inconvenient for replacement. That's why I urge anyone who changes their own oils and oil filters not to tighten them too tightly. Can you imagine what it will be like to unscrew a tightly screwed filter, if it is still located in a very inconvenient place. Then you yourself will suffer.

Basic generator malfunctions

Mechanical problems include an insufficiently tensioned alternator belt or its breakage, bearing failure, wear or damage to the pulley. Diagnosing them is not so difficult, because the condition of the belt and pulley can be assessed visually. A failed bearing produces extraneous noise when the rotor rotates.

1. Worn brushes or worn commutator. The condition is determined visually after dismantling the voltage regulator.
2. Broken rotor winding. It is necessary to measure the winding resistance with an ohmmeter. If the value is “infinity”, the rotor should be replaced.
3. Short circuit of the rotor winding to its body.
4. Failed bearings can cause the armature to cling to the stator winding. Such a stator with traces of runout should be replaced.
5. Broken stator winding. It is necessary to measure the resistance of each winding.

Generator malfunctions may not be accompanied by the warning lamp lighting up. You can notice this situation by the battery losing charge or by a change in the brightness of the headlight when the engine frequency changes. By contacting a qualified auto electrician, you can significantly save on repairs, because replacing a part is much cheaper than buying a new generator.

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