How to lower a VAZ 2107? cutting springs is ineffective

You can see a lowered “six” on the road quite often. Especially when the driver is a young guy. There are several reasons why the clearance on the VAZ 2106 is lowered. The original idea to reduce ground clearance appeared in regular car racing: rally or circuit racing, drifting and similar competitions. To achieve this effect, the suspension is “clamped,” which lowers the center of gravity, making the car more driven and responsive.

The unusual appearance and position of the car, the popularity of motor sports forced many to tune their cars in a similar way. Over time, this became fashionable and was recognized as one of the ways to stand out from the standard image of the VAZ six. At the same time, a noticeable disadvantage of driving a low-slung car is the unevenness of domestic highways and artificial road barriers (“speed bumps”).

There are quite a lot of ways to lower a VAZ 2106 yourself, from expensive to budget ones. The easiest thing for a car owner will be to purchase and install ready-made lowering kits for “classics” or to independently adjust the springs by cutting them to the desired height.

How to lower a VAZ 2107? Cutting springs is ineffective

Many classic owners sometimes wonder how to lower the VAZ 2107. This car is found on our roads quite often.
If we talk about it in more detail, it is the most popular of the classic models due to its versatility and simplicity. How to lower a VAZ 2107? is a question that people often ask on forums. Let's try to figure out a solution to this problem. In fact, all the work comes down to performing various manipulations with the suspension

. It is due to this that the lumen decreases.

Tools and materials

To work you will need the following:

• shortened springs;
• shock absorbers (see the article “What to choose, gas or oil shock absorbers”);
• metalworking tools of various types and types;

• reinforced anti-roll bars.

After all the equipment is assembled into a single unit, you can begin to carry out the work.

Some bad decisions

When a person decides to tune his VAZ 2107, he must be prepared for the fact that he will have to change the characteristics of other parts of the car. In this case, it is imperative to lower the suspension, as it will help maintain stability on the road.

Inexperienced owners use a rather primitive method of how to do this. They simply shorten the spring by about 2-3 turns

. Yes, indeed, the clearance in this case becomes smaller, but such a procedure carries with it a number of negative aspects.

When cutting the springs, there is a high probability that the car will become not just stiff, but super-stiff. In addition, its handling will deteriorate significantly. At the same time, we should not forget about the wear of the chassis, which also increases significantly.

Thus, if a car enthusiast decides to do such tuning on his own, then he has to look for alternative methods that do not have such a detrimental effect on the car.

Method of sawing off springs

A cheaper, quick and easy way to lower a VAZ 2106 is the method of sawing off the springs. After preliminary preparation of the machine, the springs are cut down with a grinder into the required number of turns so that the landing of the machine becomes the required height. You can use either the stock version or use springs from a different brand of car. It is often recommended to use Niva springs for these purposes, since they are stiffer and more durable.

Before walking with an angle grinder, you should make the necessary height calculations so that the front and rear bumpers of the car are the same height (or the rear is slightly higher). Professionals advise cutting the springs by a maximum of 2 turns. This will help lower the VAZ 2106 enough so that it is both visually visible and the suspension retains its properties at least partially. After cutting, it is recommended to install a Panhard rod. This will allow you to correct the rear axle in the center, because after landing the axle often “leads” to the side.

You can successfully combine a ready-made set of shortened shock absorbers and cutting the springs. This will be a more expensive method than simply cutting the coils, but also safer.

The best way

In order to achieve your goal, you definitely need to think about purchasing only high-quality spare parts

, which are created specifically for tuning. They were listed in the tools and materials section. This is the only way to reduce the harmful effects on all parts of your steel horse.

If we talk about other classic models of the domestic automobile industry, then here all the work is carried out in a similar way. Experts also advise using exclusively special parts and not cutting springs.

As for the actual process of installing new springs

, then it is standard, that is, no additional innovations are required. Everything is done in accordance with the rules of standard assembly of the vehicle chassis. Moreover, each individual part is always equipped with a manual, which you need to study in order to do everything really well.

Do not forget about the negative aspects that this procedure brings. The most important thing is that the car becomes much stiffer. This is felt throughout the body. There are also undeniable advantages.

We also recommend reading our article: “Do-it-yourself modifications to the VAZ 2107.”

Do not forget that after carrying out the work, the brake force regulator on the rear axle must be adjusted. If this is not done, the car will consider that it is overloaded. The rear wheels will skid during heavy braking.

Thus, there are two main ways to lower a VAZ 2107. As you can see, simply trimming the springs is ineffective

, as it leads to a decrease in the performance of the machine. It is better to use special spare parts for tuning, since only they can truly replace original components with high quality.

Front suspension assembly disassembly sequence

Replacing the front springs of a VAZ 2106 is somewhat more complicated; you will need to completely unscrew or remove the shock absorber or unscrew its lower mounting bracket, which is not very convenient. The operation is complicated by the fact that the stand is located inside the spring and will not allow it to be removed. Otherwise, the process is very similar, only the block will need to be placed under the lower suspension arm. The key here is to maintain consistency.

1. Remove the wheel, place a block under the lower arm so that you can unscrew the shock absorber.
2. Having opened the hood, unscrew the shock absorber rod from above, and the 4.5 bracket bolts from below, remove the part.
3. Place the ties on the spring and do not fix it without putting the pins in a long box.
4. Unscrew the steering wheel all the way to gain access to the lower ball joint nut. Loosen and unscrew the nut, and lightly hit the bushing with a hammer to knock the ball joint pin out of it. The force of the compressed spring will help push it out.
5. Now you can raise the jack and remove the spring along with the ties. Further work is performed as described above.

In order not to buy new springs, VAZ 2106 owners often purchase higher rubber spacers, these are commercially available. They are also placed under the rear springs

in order to raise the rear of the machine to transport heavy loads. In this case, the matter becomes simpler. After removing the tie part, there is no need to twist it, just change the rubber product, and then assemble the entire assembly.

Replacing springs on the famous “classic” is a long-established procedure that will only require some time and physical effort from its owner. Turbine for VAZ 2106 To replace the windshield on a VAZ 2106 car and Place the windshield on it like a windshield. But you won’t have to pay for it at the service station.

How to lower the classics correctly?

Welcome! Classic - this name came from the people and it stuck to old cars, many manufacturers have their own line of classic cars (That’s what people call them, in real life, each car has its own real name, which was given to it by the manufacturer), if we talk specifically about Russia, then these cars are the well-known VAZ 2101-VAZ 2107, in common parlance simply “Zhiguli”, of all the cars that are produced at AvtoVAZ, the so-called “Zhiguli” are the hardest to underestimate, and it is especially very difficult to put such cars on the doorsteps, in this In this article we will give you advice on how to properly lower such cars and tell you how to lower the car’s suspension to make it exactly the same as on stock (Comfortable).

Note! To lower such cars, you will need a lot of tools, various kinds of keys, a grinder is required, but you just need to work with it carefully and wear a protective suit, there have already been many cases when a disc flew out of an grinder and simply maimed people, so you can’t joke with this and you need to be extremely careful, and also if the car is planned to be lowered very low, then you will have to touch upon the bodywork, and all this depends on how low the car will lie and how big the wheels will be, you will learn about all this as you read the article!

Summary:

We underestimate according to our minds. Rear suspension. — logbook Lada 2106 Native 1990 on DRIVE2

It also came to the suspension. I started from the back. It was decided to install Tehnoressor - 70 and stock shock absorbers with modifications, and in advance - Tehnoressor - 50 and shock absorbers immediately lowered or stock (depending on the condition; let’s analyze it and see). So, the first thing I did was buy springs. Beautiful, green. And I'm glad)

Here they are! =)

Started installing. The first spring was removed using zip ties. But without them it’s much easier - you jack it up higher and the spring comes out.

What was to be expected - there were reinforced rubber spacers for the springs. That's why the car was like a jeep))) I bought standard thin ones. The difference between them is approximately 2 centimeters. This allows you to turn one chip. More on this later.

On the right is reinforced, and on the left are standard spacers

I clearly show the difference between factory springs and technosprings - 70: the difference is 2.2 turns.

But it is worth considering that the rigidity is different. Therefore, if you cut the springs for such a number of turns, the understatement will be more than - 70, because The stock springs lose their rigidity when cutting and sag greatly. My subjective opinion)

The shock absorbers turned out to be quite working. Recently replaced, judging by the well-preserved sticker. "Ober Kraft" - I've never even heard of these.

The new spring fits in generally easily, because... Briefly speaking. Immediately put a spacer on top. Then we place the second jack under the rear axle (where the torque rod is attached) and lower the car. The spring will press the spacer and snap into place. The main thing is to align the ends of the spring with the grooves in the lower cup and the upper rubber pad.

And we lower the car

In my case, the new thin spacers did not fit into place. The soap solution didn't help. I had to trim them slightly from the inside. New spring in place:

Now comes the fun part. To prevent the car from being a stool, you need to maintain full travel of the shock absorbers. When lowered - 70 mm, we see that the shock absorber reduces its stroke by about 9 cm in my opinion (I’ve already forgotten, I’m describing the August events))). In general, this distance must be compensated in order to maintain a working soft suspension.

I marked this distance in the photo with a red line:

And it is not necessary to buy special ones with an understatement. The desired effect is achieved by so-called “houses” or brackets for transferring the shock absorber mount. In general, they are used for inflating, but if you turn this product upside down, then they are also suitable for understating.

Native classic ones will fit without problems with minimal modifications. But, firstly, I didn’t find them, having traveled all over the city, and secondly, they give a small increase for such a lowering - about 4-5 cm. That is, the shock absorber remains compressed by a couple of three centimeters. Ideal when lowering to -50 mm, but I lower by all of 70 mm))).

The second option remains - to use houses from the eighth family. But you will have to suffer with them: they do not hold firmly and can turn. With some modifications this can be avoided and you can get 100% effect, as well as the ability to adjust the shock absorber stroke!

A friend fitted old, but good-quality brackets made of thick metal, which inspire confidence in contrast to store-bought ones, which seem to be made of foil. To adapt the alien “house” for my shaytn, I took up a grinder: I made two cuts on the sides to such a height that the “house” would fit into the standard place for attaching the shock absorber and so that the mounting holes on the “house” and the mounting location would align. You also need a cut from the end of the “house” so that it does not touch the jet thrust. The first time I went too far and cut off a lot. The second time it turned out great. The photo will make it clearer:

Why bother so much, you ask? After all, you can simply cut out the whole thing, as in the photo:

But in this way we get rid of the “ears” in the corners that DO NOT ALLOW our “house” to turn! I need to leave these “ears” - I’ll be able to perfectly keep the bracket from turning.

And no welding is needed.

Clearly

Then you need to select the internal bushings to match the width of the house. They will not allow the “house” to bend from being tightened. And we will have to tighten it tightly. Bushings from large reaction rods are excellent; at the very least, you can saw a long bushing from the lower mount of the rear shock absorber.

jet bushing

Tighten the bolts and nuts. We have this look.

Now about the bonus - adjustment. Firstly, by installing reinforced spacers instead of standard thin ones, I can lower them - 50mm instead of -70mm, because their thickness is just 2 cm more! And look at the last photo - the upper hole in the “house” exactly corresponds to the understatement of -50 mm! If we use the lower hole, the shock absorbers will knock on sunbeds and other uneven surfaces.

Let's say I wanted to change the configuration and lower it by 70 mm. Then I take and place a thin rubber spacer under the spring, get the drawdown to the 2 cm I need, and then twist the shock absorber mount from the top hole of the “house” to the bottom. The result is a working lowered suspension! Moreover, the shock absorber will still have about 1 cm of power reserve, which is to our advantage. Again, there will be no knocking on bumps. This feature is only possible when using eight-nine “houses”.

Naturally, I tried all these options. I rearranged the springs about five times! “Houses” are like that ten times!) I settled on a lowering of - 70 mm. As a result, I have a lowered rear suspension with the working stroke of the original shock absorbers. It feels like you're driving stock. And as you know, the standard suspension of Zhiguli cars is very comfortable and soft. And these properties can be preserved even by lowering the car. And with a minimum investment!

Thanks to all! Comment! Ask if something is unclear!

PS And lastly (the front is stock!):

PPS There was no need to install an adjustable Panhard rod, the bridge remained in place! =) This happens too)

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How to lower the classic VAZ 2101-VAZ 2107 correctly?

Note! In this article we will only talk about statics, nothing will be said about air suspension, because if we disassemble the air suspension, then the article will turn out to be very long, and not all people (Especially those who drive classics) are ready to pay that kind of money for air suspension (This is around 40 thousand rubles if everything is new, you can find a used one for 20 thousand), but many people want to know how to lower a car by cutting off standard springs, and by the way, we won’t look at severe lowering either , everything is within normal limits!

1. At the beginning, you will need to decide on lowering the car, namely how much you will cut the coils, but before you do this, find a car that you definitely like based on the fit and, after talking with the owner, find out what has been done to the springs. , you can also ask how the car behaves in everyday driving (namely, how it overcomes obstacles, are there any problems with movement and similar questions) and having learned all this, decide for yourself how much you will cut the springs and remove them from the car, cut them down, but under no circumstances cut the springs if they are installed on the car.

Installing a ready-made set of elements

If the owner decides to use a ready-made set of elements, after preliminary preparation of the car, you can begin installing it. The modern car market provides a huge selection of parts and manufacturers, hard and soft springs and shock absorbers, to suit any lowering. The problem is that not everything fits the VAZ “classic”. But you can find it. The main thing is to clearly decide how much you want to lower the car and in what conditions the car will be used.

Professionals recommend 50 mm as optimal, taking into account the standard of the car. What's good about this option:

• the machine is given sufficient rigidity;
• The car's suspension remains working, the car will not jump over uneven roads.

When selecting finished parts, you should take into account the number of turns of the spring. Fewer turns means lower height, which is important when lowering a car. There are sports sets that have the appropriate characteristics. Among them it is quite possible to choose the right one.

In addition to purchasing a ready-made kit, there is the option of ordering parts with the required characteristics from a specialist. After installing the updated suspension, all components are assembled in the reverse order.

How to properly lower a VAZ 2101, 2106, 2107

I welcome you, dear readers, to the site about tuning and repairing VAZ cars, or, more simply put, how to build a cramp yourself. In this article we will talk about such a common tuning as lowering a car with your own hands , and most importantly, how to do it correctly with less harm to your car. Let's first look at what methods exist to lower your car .

Tuning and repair of VAZ 2110

Recently, there has been a tendency among young people to undervalue their cars. As they say: “A low pelvis is pleasing to the eye!” I’ll say right away that if you decide to lower your VAZ, you can do this in several ways, but the easiest and cheapest is to cut the springs. But, I want to warn you that on bumps it will not be very pleasant, due to the fact that all the impacts will go to the bump stops, the spring will not smooth them out much. If this doesn’t stop you, as in principle it doesn’t stop me, then this article is for you  And this article is also for those who don’t like the fact that the back of the VAZ 2110 is much higher than the front. To level them, you can cut off just a couple of turns - this will not affect the behavior of the car.

Well, less words, more action.

How to trim springs

1. Immediately you need to jack up the rear wheel and remove it.
2. Next you need to remove the shock-absorbing strut of the VAZ 2110, you can read how to do this here: DEVICE AND REPAIR OF THE REAR SUSPENSION.

Instructions for working with rear springs

Before starting the replacement, you should slip 2 boots under the wheel located diagonally from the one being removed. Replacing the rear springs begins with unscrewing the wheel without removing it; later, you need to place a block under the end of the rear axle beam without lowering the jack. The entire mass of the car will rest on the block and will not compress the spring. Engine number, On a VAZ 2106 car, model and number, engine model, mass. The block should be positioned in such a way as not to interfere with unscrewing the lower shock absorber mount. Further on the annotation.

1. Loosen the shock absorber mounting nut, unscrew it and do not remove the long bolt. The shock absorber must be unscrewed so that you can remove the spring later.
2. Place ties on the coils of the spring 5 from the reverse sides, do not securely fix them, pressing them by the studs with a wrench.
3. Raise the surface of the car body with a jack until you can remove the spring together with the ties.
4. You, the rubber spacer sticks to the metal of the body and does not remain in the glass, only the steel ring falls out. I have been thinking for a long time about replacing the front windows of the VAZ 2106 with glass, like the VAZ 2106. Therefore, it is necessary to pry up the rubber using a long flat-head screwdriver so as not to remove it from the socket.
5. Loosen the grips of the ties, alternately unscrewing the studs with a wrench. Replacing tie rods on VAZ 2101, 2103, 2105, 2106 as with VAZ collapsible tie rods. Rearranging the ties on the new spring will not tighten it to the approximate size of the old one.
6. Place a new rubber spacer with a steel washer on the upper coil of the spring. Its configuration is such that it should coincide with the shape of the upper turn.

How much should the springs be cut? | Topic started by: Nitalaksha

Good evening, can you tell me how much the springs need to be cut so that the wheel arch liners don’t rustle too much, and is it even worth it? car with 14 rims

Alex (Javion) ​​I think Nivov’s puzhins if you cut them, the front is 1 turn, the back is 2 turns, but the amors should be normal

Alex (Javion) ​​What kind of springs are they? ! They seat a friend.

Alex (Javion) ​​Alex, those whose finances do not allow, they cut, others buy at a discount

Alex (Javion) ​​Alexey, the amors are changing. but quality!! she sits on 14 skating rinks and there are five in her, how is that possible? ! )))

Alex (Javion) ​​Alex, naturally it is necessary to set the Amorra at a lower level, but you can set the rollers to 15, everything will be fine, but this will most likely be without lockers

Renat (Saghir) Why the hell cut them? Idiot fashion.

Artyom (Abhigurti) you install springs from the Niva, new ones, and cut 2 turns, I did this to my bro on the 5, and he also has 15 rims, without lockers, 7 people ride calmly in the car and nothing rubs even on bumps.

Collective farm to the masses. Part two) (Understatement 2106)

I never thought that I would be cutting springs, or even getting into the suspension of a car.
But having cut down one and a half turns at the back, I couldn’t shake the idea of ​​finishing everything to the end. And the council of mechanics (consisting of me and my sidekick) decided to redo the suspension for better stability in corners and on the track. As I read somewhere once: “understatement is done: 90% for the sake of showing off, the rest for better stability.” =) In general, the rear springs from the Niva were urgently found, because... have higher rigidity compared to stock classic springs. My adjustable panhard rod was welded (there are a lot of descriptions on its construction on the net). A couple of spring compressors. After spending 2 days in the garage in the cold, the suspension was redone. So: Rear Niva springs -2.5 turns, adjustable rod, gas-myas shock absorbers. The situation ahead was strange. The springs that were there turned out to be stiffer than the stock ones, and moreover, they clearly had more turns than the stock ones. At first 1.5 turns were cut, but this turned out to be not enough!!! Again, the council of mechanics ^_^ decided to cut 2.5 turns at the front! And so they did. Total before -2.5 turns. The shocks are stock. They were killed a long time ago. But when lowered, they almost completely stopped working. due to a lack of supplies, I had to leave them for now. Now I can proudly say that the work on the suspension is finished. All around there are Sachs 579 gas shock absorbers. As it turned out, there were Niva springs and Niva shock absorbers in front. Filthy)

What is the result: As a result, the stability on the track is simply amazing for a classic! Of course, if the skin on the ass is sensitive, then it is better to refuse such modifications) The suspension is stiff. Small bumps are swallowed perfectly. On bumps you can feel the impacts on your butt. Well, if you are a fan of flying over speed bumps, then you should tie down everything that is in the trunk... and in the cabin too... In many ways, the blows to the ass were caused by dead shock absorbers. Today they have been replaced with gas ones. And oh miracles! The suspension works! And it’s very good. I got a stiff but at the same time elastic suspension. I think that the classics should only have this one. I just advise everyone to do the same, even without underestimating. The difference is obvious. =)

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