What is the ignition switch for Niva 2121 suitable for?

All cars use a large number of different electronics, which increases the level of driver comfort, and is also necessary for the operation of the internal combustion engine and the entire car. As a rule, power circuits cannot be constantly energized, so the ignition switch is used to turn the vehicle control circuits on and off.

In this article we will talk about the ignition switch on a Lada Niva car (2121, 21213, 21214, etc.), namely the reasons for its breakdown, ways to eliminate them, self-replacement and much more.

About the castle

The ignition switch on the Niva is a part that has a mechanical and electrical part. Each part is responsible for specific functions. The mechanical part protects the car from turning on the ignition with another key and increases the car’s protection against theft. The electrical part (contact group) is responsible for closing the power supply and vehicle control circuits.

Each of the parts can fail, which will lead to the inability to start the engine or stop it altogether.

Instructions for setting the ignition

Now we suggest you find out how to set the ignition on a Niva.

On VAZ 21214, 2131 models, electronic ignition is set as follows:

1. First, cylinder 1 must be set to the top dead center position, while the mark on the crankshaft must be in front of the 3 - 0 degree mark.
2. Then, to set it up, you need to dismantle the distributor cover and see where the slider is located - it should be directed towards the pin of cylinder 1. Using a strobe, you need to set the torque, after which the ground of the device is connected to the battery negative, and the positive terminal to the positive.
3. Next, the regulator clamp should be connected to the high-voltage cable on cylinder 1 and marked with a mark on the crankshaft pulley. The engine starts, and its revolutions should be no more than 800 per minute, and the light from the strobe should be directed to the mark on the pulley. If the ignition adjustment was carried out correctly, the mark should coincide with the middle mark on the engine cover. If this is not the case, then the power unit must be turned off, then loosen the distributor fastening either clockwise or counterclockwise. The distributor cover is being dismantled; you need to ensure that the stator petals are aligned with the rotor mark.
4. Next, the engine starts again and warms up to 80 degrees. Accelerate to 60 km/h and press the gas pedal sharply. If the module is inserted correctly, the engine may briefly detonate at this point.

Breakdowns

Most often, the contact group fails, since it is made of plastic into which copper contacts are inserted; due to the flow of high currents and weak contact between the brackets, heating occurs. Due to high temperature, the plastic is deformed and damages the contact group.

The mechanical part fails much less often, but it also happens. It becomes damaged due to prolonged use, the springs in the lock sag, the lock becomes loose, which leads to its jamming or the ability to turn it with almost any key, which reduces the car’s protection to zero.

conclusions

The modification of the VAZ 21213 Niva undoubtedly benefited him. The new engine and improved ignition system have made its operation even easier and more confident in harsh conditions.

Of all the car accessories, the most essential one is a wallet.

Much has been written about how timely the first domestic SUV with a monocoque body turned out to be. Even more was expressed by the owners of the Niva car themselves, who practically deified its capabilities. All they needed for operation was the availability of spare parts and instructions for servicing the vehicle.

The popularity of the model is difficult to overestimate - 28 years in service

Differences between ignition switches

The ignition switches on the Niva are different; on the older VAZ 2121, the ignition switch is from the VAZ 2106, and on the Chevrolet Niva, the ignition switch is from the VAZ 2110.

Ignition switch on Niva until 2009. does not have a common connector, and the wires in it are connected separately. Quite often, when people remove the contacts from the lock, they forget their position and this complicates the assembly process, so it is best to mark the wires first, but if you have already removed the wires and now do not know how to connect them, then you can use the picture below indicating the color of the wires and their connections to a specific contact.

This is how it always happens, some little thing pulls behind it quite a chain of events and sometimes even efforts. I was clearing rubble in the garage) and accidentally discovered a steering column from 2110, I don’t remember where it came from, but it doesn’t matter anymore... in general, I decided to install it to the Niva. Since my main car is a Subaru Forester, the ignition switch is more convenient and familiar to me on the right, and there are two steering columns and not three, and I’m tired of making keys for the Niva, why do they make them... from tin, well, and many different usual ones goodies that are not available in Niva. Well, my soul went to heaven)))... for the steering wheel I had to buy an ignition switch 2110 - steering columns, for some reason everyone uses Shniv ones, I took the 08, it’s more convenient for me to switch them (the lever is closer to the fingers, IMHO) - column casing, again I took 2110, when I was picking it up, I was horrified to find out that there are 3 or 4 types of them... p.c. - a new steering wheel (the original one doesn’t fit), well, different switches, toggle switches, wires, male and female, this I have enough good stuff. There’s just a little bit left to do... time, that’s what I’m struggling with... in the end I got to work during the New Year’s boozy holidays. Installing the column itself was not particularly difficult, there is a lot of information on the Internet, so I won’t describe it for a long time... I only encountered one problem when I tried on the column, the steering wheel hit my “teeth”)))... I don’t know what the reason was, but I had to shorten it the driveshaft is 25 mm, but that’s not a problem, so I managed. The lock was also easy, and I connected it quickly, for which many thanks to comrade PowerFire, but then I slowed down. I decided to implement the possibility of the 10th lock, which few people pay attention to, namely the built-in microswitch. I powered it through the “minus” (85) as many as three 4-pin relays, the “plus” was supplied by a permanent one (86). I made one relay turning off the headlights, turning off the headlights on the second, with the ability to force the toggle switch to turn on while parked with the key pulled out (this is implemented in the Forester), and on the third I put the radio. Now when you take the key out of the ignition, you don’t have to make a bunch of gestures, and it’s gone the likelihood of draining the battery when the headlights are on or the lights are on in the parking lot. Give it to me.

The ignition switch in cars of the VAZ family fails from time to time due to weakening of the contact posts or burning of the contacts inside it. It also happens that the cams of a plastic roller are produced. You can disassemble the lock and clean it, but it’s better to just replace it with a new one, considering that it costs pennies compared to imported locks.

But if connecting the wires together did not result in the starter operating (or it did not turn on the first time), check the solenoid relay on the starter. The contact spots on it may also burn out, which will prevent the circuit from closing normally. Alternatively, you can use a screwdriver to short-circuit the two large terminals on the solenoid relay (before doing this, put the car in neutral and use the handbrake). When closed, the starter should begin to spin vigorously. If this happens, remove and change the solenoid relay. If the starter rotates “sluggishly” when it closes, you will have to remove it and check the condition of the brushes.

All operations are performed with your own hands, without the help of car service specialists. Moreover, the price of an ignition switch on a VAZ2106 is up to 100 rubles. To replace it, you will need to know the pinout of the wires coming from it, for which the editors of the site 2 Schemes.ru have prepared a large reference material.

1. supplies voltage to the vehicle’s on-board network, closing the circuits of the ignition system, lighting, sound alarm, additional devices and instruments;
2. at the driver’s command, turns on the starter to start the power plant and turns it off;
3. turns off the power to the on-board circuit, preserving the battery charge;
4. protects the car from theft by fixing the steering shaft.

The ignition switch on these cars is located to the left of the steering column. It is fixed directly to it using two fixing bolts. The entire mechanism of the device, except for the upper part in which the keyhole is located, is hidden by a plastic casing.

On the visible part of the ignition switch housing, special marks are applied in a certain order, allowing inexperienced drivers to navigate the lock activation mode when the key is in the hole:

• “ ” – a mark indicating that all systems, devices and instruments that are turned on using the lock are turned off (this does not include the cigarette lighter, interior lighting, brake light, and in some cases the radio);
• “I” is a mark informing that the vehicle’s on-board network is powered from the battery. In this position, the key is fixed independently, and electricity is supplied to the ignition system, to the electric motors of the heater and windshield washer, instrumentation, headlights and light signaling;
• “II” – engine start mark. It indicates that voltage is applied to the starter. The key does not lock in this position. If you release it, it will return to the "I" position. This is done so as not to subject the starter to unnecessary loads;
• “III” – parking mark. If you remove the key from the ignition in this position, the steering column will be locked with a latch. It can only be unlocked by inserting the key back and turning it to position “0” or “I”.

The ignition switch has five contacts and, accordingly, five terminals, which are responsible for supplying voltage to the desired unit. All of them are numbered for convenience. Each pin corresponds to a wire of a certain color:

• “50” – output responsible for supplying current to the starter (red or purple wire);
• “15” – terminal through which voltage is supplied to the ignition system, to the electric motors of the heater, washer, and instrument panel (double blue wire with a black stripe);
• “30” and “30/1” – constant “plus” (pink and brown wires, respectively);
• “INT” – external lighting and light signaling (double black wire).

How to check the ignition module?

After installing and connecting all components, you need to diagnose the functionality of the module:

1. First, the resistance between the terminals of the secondary winding is measured - the probes are connected to cylinders 1 and 4, and then to 2 and 3. The indicators can be any, the main thing is that they more or less coincide. A malfunction of the secondary winding will be indicated by an error in the indicators of more than 100 Ohms.
2. After this, you need to test the wiring; to do this, you need to disconnect the block from the unit and set the multimeter to voltmeter mode, with one tester probe connected to pin A, and the second to ground. Start the engine and watch the tester display - the readings should be about 12 volts, the second contact is diagnosed in the same way.
3. If there is no voltage, you should diagnose the safety element located in the mounting block under the center console. The reason for the lack of voltage can be not only a blown fuse, but also poor contact, broken wiring, as well as corrosion (author - AutoElectrika Diary channel).

Pinout of lock VAZ-2108, VAZ-2109, VAZ-21099

Pinout according to the old type

Pinout of the VAZ-2109 ignition switch with unloading relay:

1. comes +12V in position I, II, III (parking)
2. comes +12V in position I, II, III (parking)
3. comes +12V in position III (parking)
4. position I, +12V goes out after turning on the ignition (contact 15/2), disappears at start (II);
5. position I, +12V goes to the starter (pin 50);
6. position I, +12V goes away after turning on the ignition (pin 15), does not disappear when starting II;
7. +12V comes from the battery (pin 30);
8. comes +12V constantly.

New pinout type

Pinout of the new VAZ-2109 ignition switch:

1. comes +12V constantly
2. comes +12V constantly
3. +12V arrives after turning on the ignition (pin 15), does not disappear when starting II;
4. +12V arrives after turning on the ignition (contact 15/2), disappears at start (II);
5. position I, +12V goes to the starter (pin 50);
6. +12V arrives after turning on the ignition (pin 15), does not disappear when starting II;
7. +12V comes from the battery (pin 30);
8. comes +12V constantly.

Lock diagram and check

First of all, you need to deal with the wiring. In principle, there is nothing particularly complicated here. When the key is in position one, a contact called 30-INT is turned on. He is responsible for lighting, windshield wipers, and washers. Also in this position, contact 30/1-15 is activated. The circuits turn on the heater, heated rear window, turns, the generator winding is excited, etc. The carburetor valve and ignition system are also ready to start working.

As for the markings, you can see them on the wiring. It is also schematically depicted on the castle. To check the contact group, you must use an ohmmeter. The probes of the device are connected to the terminals of the ignition contacts. This way the switching is checked. If everything is in order, then at key positions 1, 2, 3, the resistance on the ohmmeter should not be higher than zero. If something is wrong, it grows. It is also worth noting that if there are problems, the contact group must be replaced. This is the diagram of the VAZ-2106 ignition switch, and as noted above, there is nothing complicated here.

Pinout of lock VAZ-2110, VAZ-2111, VAZ-2112

Pinout of the ignition switch VAZ-2110:

1. comes +12V for the microphone of the sensor of the inserted key;
2. the mass comes when the driver's door is open;
3. +12V goes to the starter (pin 50);
4. +12V goes out after turning on the ignition (pin 15);
5. +12V goes out when the key is inserted to pin 5 of the BSK;
6. comes +12V to illuminate the lock cylinder;
7. +12V comes from the battery (pin 30);
8. not used.

Inspection of the larva

A lock without a key looks like this - stoppers stick out in all directions, which catch when turning and thus prevent the cylinder from turning inside.
When you insert the key into the cylinder, all the pins should be removed, thus they will not interfere with the key turning. In our case, we had 1 pin sticking out on the left, which clung and did not allow the “larva” to spin. We worked on it with a file.

Also carefully inspect the lock cylinder; it is quite possible that you will see burrs and even grooves on the upper side that were “trodden down” by the pressure pin running along its top. It turned out that for all the time (and the car is already 10 years old), he made his own move in the “body of the larva” (outer side), which ended in a dead end. And in this position the key was locked (position I - ignition).

There, they also used a needle file to grind off the furrow it made; make the angle as sharp as possible. It is very difficult to explain, so think about how and what should work. The lock cylinder is made of soft material and in 10 years it will definitely wear out, the rear round pin “drills” its path. Point it the right way and you won't have to buy a new ignition switch.

On sale you can find locks with cylinders (3 pieces - for the front doors and trunk) - the cost is approximately 1,300 rubles.

Or take it without the cylinders - it costs 900 rubles, but now you will have 2 keys - one to start the car, and the second to close/open the front doors and trunk. So repairing the lock is a very good option, you win in 2 categories at once - you save money, and you will still have 1 key for everything, as before.

Pinout of lock VAZ-2113, VAZ-2114, VAZ-2115

Pinout of the ignition switch VAZ-2113, 2114, 2115:

1. comes +12V for the microphone of the sensor of the inserted key;
2. the mass comes when the driver's door is open;
3. +12V goes to the starter (pin 50);
4. +12V goes out after turning on the ignition (pin 15);
5. +12V goes out when the key is inserted to pin 5 of the BSK;
6. comes +12V to illuminate the lock cylinder;
7. +12V comes from the battery (pin 30);
8. not used.

Contactless (electronic) ignition of VAZ 2101. Scheme. Installation procedure

Replacing the ignition switch on a VAZ 2114 and wiring diagram
Since more and more owners of VAZ 2101 and “classics” are replacing the old ignition system with a contactless (electronic) one, it would not be amiss to talk about it.

Scheme of the VAZ contactless ignition system

Explanation of the scheme:

1. Non-contact sensor.
2. Ignition distributor sensor.
3. Spark plug.
4. Switch.
5. Ignition coil.
6. Mounting block.
7. Ignition relay.
8. Ignition switch.

The following equipment will be required:

1. Switch. Recommended models: K563.3734, K562.3734. The device includes 2 parts: the main unit and an additional one. Additional - serves as a reserve and can take over the tasks of the main unit or Hall sensor in the event of component failure.
2. Candles (it is better to use A17 DVR or any similar option).
3. Ignition coil marking 27.3705 (magnetic conductor must be open).
4. Ignition distribution sensor (marking distributor 38.3706).
5. Wire harness.
6. High-voltage silicone wires (recommended manufacturers - TESLA or CEZAR).

You will need a set of tools:

• keys for spark plugs, 8, 10, 12, 13 millimeters;
• probe 0.7-0.8 millimeters;
• drilling equipment;
• strobe

Ignition installation steps:

Replace the original spark plugs with a new one (the gap should be set to 0.7-0.8 millimeters). Install the switch. The optimal location of the VAZ 2101 is the inner side wall of the compartment. For installation, you will need to drill 2 holes and screw the device to the splash guard with the emergency switch facing up. It is necessary that the switch radiator has a large contact area with the surface of the body (this will increase thermal output). The switch can also be fixed with self-tapping screws. Remove the distributor cap and start turning the crankshaft until the slider turns towards the first cylinder on the distributor

It is worth paying attention that the mark on the crankshaft pulley and the middle mark on the gas distribution system cover must match. Using the key “13” you need to unscrew the distributor and remove it

Take a new distributor and remove the cap from it. Then, turning the rod, scroll it until the slider turns in the direction of the 1st cylinder (as it was on the original distributor). Install a new distributor and tighten the nut to thirteen. Next, scrolling it in a circle, relative to its axis, position it so that the central point of the Hall device coincides with the edge of the beginning of the window cutout in the screen. Then, you can tighten the nut securing the distributor to the end. Replace the ignition coil. The procedure includes the following steps: unscrew the old coil (in this case, the conductors do not need to be removed from its terminals); replace with a new part; the wiring harness is connected using connectors to the switch and ignition distribution device; the black conductor is connected to ground (the terminal must have a tight connection to the car body); the red conductor is connected to terminal “K” on a new copy of the part; the brown wire from the tachometer (disconnected from the previous part) is also connected to “K”; The blue wire and the black-blue wire (disconnected from the previous part) are connected to terminal “B”. It must be taken into account that components “K” and “B” cannot always be placed symmetrically.

Put on the distributor cap and high-voltage conductors. Check each fastener and you can try to start the car.

If you can't start, the problem may be the following:

1. A non-working switch has been installed.
2. The problem is in the coil.
3. Defect in the Hall sensor.
4. There is a break in the wiring harness, or they are badly tangled.
5. The distributor is not placed correctly.
6. The ignition has failed.
7. High-voltage conductors are tangled.
8. An error was made when installing the conductors on the coil.
9. The defect is located in the spark plugs or the gap is incorrectly set.

The structure of a car ignition switch

1. Locking rod
2. Frame
3. Roller
4. Contact disc
5. Contact sleeve
6. Block
7. Protrusion of the contact part.

The lock mechanism is connected to many wires. They continue from the battery, connecting all the electrical devices of the car into a single chain. When you turn the ignition key, the electrical circuit is closed from the “-” terminal of the battery to the ignition coil. As a result, the current passes through the wires to the ignition switch, through its contacts it is directed to the induction coil, after which it returns back to the “+” terminal. As electricity passes through the coil, it generates high voltage, which it transmits to the spark plug. Therefore, the key closes the contacts of the ignition circuit, thereby starting the car engine.

Features of the modification

First of all, the changes affected the engine management system and control instruments. In particular:

1. The wiring diagram for Niva 21213 received an additional wiring harness in the engine compartment for connecting a microcontroller and sensors;
2. On the Niva model of recent years of production, a more advanced power unit with the VAZ-21214 index is installed. Instead of a carburetor, it has a fuel frame with injectors from GM. The price of a car with injection has increased because of this;
3. The instrument panel has changed - the design is borrowed from the VAZ 2108 model.

Ignition system

The VAZ 21213 engine uses a non-contact ignition system consisting of:

1. ignition distributor sensor (marking 3810.3706). It is responsible for creating control pulses supplied to the electronic switch;
2. switch (model marking – 3620.3734) in climatic version U2.1 (corresponds to GOST 15150);
3. ignition coils (marking 27.3705).

For reference: this device provides increased spark energy, which helps start the engine in cold weather, and also improves the performance of the power unit when operating the vehicle on low-quality fuel.

Dashboard

A modified instrument panel appeared on the car. In particular, instead of a voltmeter, the manufacturer installed a low battery discharge lamp (no. 12 in the diagram).

Tip: if you often operate your car in off-road conditions, you can buy and connect a voltmeter to the instrument panel yourself. It is more informative than a warning light and will allow you to identify electrical system faults long before the battery discharges.

Replacing the ignition switch on a VAZ car

To carry out repair work to replace the ignition switch of a vase, we will need: a screwdriver, a tester and a thin awl. Once you have everything you need, you can begin the repair. On all classic VAZ cars, the ignition switch is located at the bottom, on the left of the steering column. To replace you need:

1. Disconnect battery
2. Remove the plastic casing by first unscrewing the screws that secure it.
3. Then unscrew the two screws securing the ignition switch to the bracket.
4. We insert the key and set it to position 0 to disable the anti-theft device.
5. Insert the awl into the hole in the bracket and press the latch. Then we take out the lock itself.
6. After removal, it is recommended to mark the contact wires so that nothing is mixed up the next time you connect.

Removing the ignition switch on a VAZ-2106 begins with disassembling the steering column casing. We unscrew the five bolts and remove its halves. Before you begin disassembling the electrical part of the lock, it is very useful to disconnect the battery by removing the negative terminal or unscrewing the switch bolt. After this, remove the spring retaining ring from the back of the lock body and remove the contact group. We move it to the side so that it does not interfere, and we begin to remove the lock itself.

It is secured in the steering shaft bracket with two bolts, after unscrewing which nothing happens. It is useless to try to remove the lock from its socket if you do not know about the special stopper. It is located on the lock body under the bracket. We press this stopper into the lock with a thin screwdriver through a small hole in the bracket. Further, according to all the instructions, the lock should be pulled out freely, but this does not work.

An obstacle that is not described anywhere is the anti-theft rod. Even though it is in a “disconnected” state, it still clings to the steering shaft. To remove the lock, you have to manipulate the key. In different positions of the lock cylinder, the anti-theft device also moves and is recessed as much as possible when the key is in the “Starter” position. After a few minutes the lock can be pulled out of the bracket.

Here is the time to write that assembly of the unit should be carried out in the reverse order of removal. And in general, this will be true. First you need to insert the new lock into the bracket, recessing the latch and holding the key in the starter position, tighten the fastening bolts, then connect the wires. Particular attention must be paid to this, because an incorrectly connected contact group can damage the starter or ignition system. We reconnect the wires from the old group to the new one one at a time, checking the numbers on the contacts. After this, we assemble the steering column casing.

On the car, the ignition switch is located on the driver's side, mounted on the left side of the steering wheel on the steering gear bracket, under the instrument panel.

First of all, you need to get rid of the decorative casing of the steering shaft, unscrew the fastening screws and remove it. We performed similar actions when replacing the steering shaft.

After removing the decorative casing, unscrew the two screws securing the ignition switch to the body, then insert the key into the lock and turn on the “0” position, which turns off the anti-theft device. Through the hole in the bracket, press the lock lock with a thin awl and remove the ignition switch from the mounting socket. This completes the repair work to remove the ignition switch.

On VAZ 2108 and higher models, a package with wires is connected to the lock, that is, nothing needs to be marked and the possibility of mixing up the wires when installing a new switch is completely eliminated. Well, on VAZ 2107 and lower models, this is not the case, each wire is connected separately, so when removing each wire, it must be marked so as not to be confused during further installation.

To replace the contact group of the ignition switch, you need to use a thin screwdriver or an awl to pry the retaining ring from the edge and remove the contact part. When installing a new contact part, orient it so that terminals “15” and “30” are on the side of the locking rod.

At this point, the repair work is completed, install the new ignition switch in the reverse order of removal, connect the wires, transferring the markings from the old switch to the new one. The pinout or connection diagram of the VAZ ignition switch wires is quite simple and understandable, so every car enthusiast can carry out repairs or replace a spare part without the help of car service employees.

I installed the ignition switch from a VAZ 2110. I have not connected the microswitch yet, I only connected the backlight with the door open.

Due to the fact that the frame of the instrument panel is from a VAZ 21213, the Kalinovsky steering column casing did not fit on top. I had to cut the upper part of the casing in place and shape it with glass mat and polyester.

On the lower part of the casing at the bottom I built up the edges with plastic plates. So that less fucking would be visible.

I took it apart several times. So far I have chosen the optimal position of the steering column and ignition switch in relation to the casing and steering wheel.

Chevrolet Niva hub - replacement

To replace the wheel bearing in the field, you need to pull out the hub. This is carried out according to the following plan.

1. Dismounting the conical bushing.

2. Unlocking the nuts. The problem may lie in the fact that they often lick off or turn sour. In this case, you can use a chisel and a light hammer.

3. Use the nineteenth socket or wrench to remove the lever clamps. They are located both front and back.

4. The locking plates are removed. These are metal perforated strips that are often overlooked.

5. The seventeenth and tenth keys require removing the circuit pipes.

6. A stop is installed under the lever. Using two twelfths keys, unscrew the nut fixed on the upper arm retainer bolt.

7. The lower block is also unscrewed in the same way.

8. When there are no fasteners left, it is possible to pull out the entire system at once.

9. By fixing the steering knuckle with a clamp, you can knock out the hub.

10. After this, the screws securing the knuckle to the lever mechanism are removed.

Knowing the structure of the front wheel hub of Niva 21213, you can carry out repairs yourself, without contacting a service center.

Article: 2110-3704005-30, additional articles: 21100370400530, 21100-3704005-30

Order code: 122326

I wanted something new in an old car. a decision was made to “modernize” the steering column space. I did not triple the functionality or appearance of the old VAZ “guitar”.

The lock appears to be made with high quality, everything holds tightly, the key moves smoothly. I didn’t find any fastening bolts in the kit, either they weren’t there or I lost them, the order was large, there were a lot of items. In general, I purchased separately: Bolt M6x1.0x28 VAZ-2101,2109 ignition switch x 4 pcs.

There is nothing complicated about installation and connection. You don’t even have to remove the old lock, because... 2110 is hung on the right side.

There remains 1 unconnected wire, which is a constant “+”, previously it was responsible for turning on the lighting (dimensions and headlights). It can be directly connected to the light switch, but then if you forget to turn it off, you can drain the battery. This problem is solved by installing additional relays.

To be honest, I don’t know how the circuit along the starter line was implemented on 2110, but on 2106 there were shortcomings, due to the absence of a relay in the circuit, the entire load was borne by the contact group of the ignition switch, which could lead to frequent breakdowns of the ignition switch itself. So, in order to avoid such problems with the new lock, we install an additional 12V 4-pin AVAR electromagnetic relay. According to the scheme:

This lock also has LED lighting, I haven’t connected it yet, but I will do it later.

In general, everything is fine with the ignition switch, I’m happy with the installation, it works neater than the old one, it looks prettier, the key moves softer, you can now make a switch key.

But, because If the lock is hung on the right side of the steering column, then the old casing will no longer fit.

To replace the “guitar” we will need new steering column switches, this is a matter of taste, some people install from Chevrolet Niva, others from Matiz and Nexia. I liked the Neksievsky ones better:

To install them we need:

A few on-the-spot modifications and everything falls into place:

Also, for beauty, we will need dust covers for the switches, because... The boots intended for these switches are quite expensive, but you can replace them with cheaper ones “Boot for steering column switch G-31105, Gazelle” art. 31105-3710072, much cheaper, but look no worse:

I won’t write the connection diagram here, as there are already a lot of letters