Replacing the heater radiator VAZ 2114 (2115): step-by-step instructions

Tips for purchasing and replacing pipes on a VAZ2115

As with any car, a moment arises when it becomes necessary to replace the pipes of the ventilation and heating system of the car interior. Malfunction occurs for various reasons. Pipes get cracked due to frequent temperature changes. Sometimes the ingress of oils and gasoline also leads to malfunction. Usually cracks and holes form in the pipes under the fastening clamps. If the pipes are of poor quality, a sharp increase in pressure in the cooling system (ICE) of the car engine also leads to malfunction of the pipes.

Saving tip

There is a need to replace the pipes with new ones. You should not spend money on new pipes manufactured specifically for the cooling and ventilation system of the VAZ2115. In a year they will crack and tear. It is better to buy a heater hose from a gazelle car with a diameter of 16mm. A 3 meter long hose will be sufficient. According to the outer diameter of the hose, clamps are purchased for mounting on fittings.

To replace faulty pipes, the machine is placed on an overpass, in an inspection hole. The car engine must cool down for at least an hour.

Cooling system design

When the engine is running, a lot of heat is generated for removal, which is used by the car’s cooling system, consisting of the following components:

1 - Heater radiator.
2, 3 - Outlet, underwater pipes of the heater.
4 - Pump hose.
5 - Pipe coming from the expansion tank.
6, 12 - Steam removal hoses.
7 - Tank cover.
8 — Expansion tank.
9 - Thermostat.
10, 19 - Outlet pipes.
11, 13 - Supply pipes.
14 - Cooling radiator.
15 — Radiator drain plug.
16 — Radiator blower fan.
17 - Pump

You need to drain the coolant from the system. Open the expansion tank cap. Remove the sides of the instrument panel in the cockpit. Open the liquid supply valve to the stove radiator. Drain the coolant into a 10-liter container by loosening the clamp on the liquid supply to the stove radiator and disconnecting the pipe itself. In this case, you need to be careful not to let the coolant get into your eyes. Direct the end of the pipe into the container, since the liquid from the container, after replacing the pipes, will need to be poured back into the cooling system. For ease of operation, remove the air filter.

First remove the external pipes, then the pipes from the stove radiator in the cabin. The heater hose is cut to fit the size of the nozzles. For ease of fitting onto the fittings, lightly lubricate the surface of the fittings with grease or lithol. First, attach the hose to the fittings of the stove radiator, then to the tap tubes, not forgetting to first put clamps on the hose. Clamps secure the hose to the fittings and tubes. The same actions are performed on the outside of the pipes and fittings. After assembly, check the tightness of the hose clamps on the tubes and fittings.

Pour coolant into the expansion tank, only up to the maximum mark, and replace the air filter. The expansion tank cap is closed. Start the car and warm it up until the cooling fan comes on. Check to see if there are any coolant leaks from the cooling system. With proper repair, there are no leaks. If necessary, add coolant to the reservoir until the average level between the minimum and maximum marks is reached.

What are the advantages of ordering pipes and other auto parts online?

First of all, I would like to note how convenient it is to sit on the couch at home and choose the necessary auto parts for your car. It doesn’t matter what the weather is like outside at that moment. In addition, using the Internet it is possible to buy parts for cars at work. This is explained by the fact that ordering goods online does not require much time. A few clicks of the mouse and products from the virtual car store will be ordered, all you have to do is wait for it to be delivered.

It makes no difference what make and model of the car. There are auto parts for all cars on the Internet. This purchase is beneficial for those who value their time. If necessary, it is always possible to order auto parts from any city. There is no need to worry about their delivery, because this is handled by the courier service. Usually the goods are delivered to the buyer as quickly as possible.

In conclusion, it remains only to clarify that the cost of parts in virtual stores is affordable. The car owner will not have to worry about this. When making a purchase in this way, he will have the opportunity to save money.

DIAGRAM AND DEVICE OF THE COOLING SYSTEM

The cooling system of the VAZ 2114 is liquid, with forced circulation. Antifreeze or antifreeze is poured into the system as a coolant. In the most extreme case, you can fill it with water, but you can’t drive it for a long time - in winter you can defrost the engine, and during the rest of the season, when the engine is used for a long time on water, the cooling jacket in the block and cylinder head is corroded, and rust accumulates in the radiator.

The VAZ 2114 engine cooling system (SOD) consists of the following elements:

Radiator. It is the main cooling part in the system and performs the function of transferring heat to the liquid into the surrounding airspace;
Water pump (pump). The pump creates forced movement of antifreeze in the system, thereby cooling the entire SOD, including the internal combustion engine (ICE). The pump rotates from the timing belt;
Branch pipes (hoses). Antifreeze circulates through them;
Thermostat. It regulates the passage of coolant through all pipes or only in a small circle and maintains the required operating temperature of the internal combustion engine;
Electric fan. The fan is located on the plane of the radiator and, due to the air flow created, cools its surface when turned on. The electric motor turns on only when the temperature set by the sensor is reached (103°C);
Expansion tank. Liquid is poured into the tank, and when the fan is activated, antifreeze flows into it through the return hose, thereby releasing excess pressure into the SOD;
Expansion tank plugs. There are valves in the plug that relieve excess air pressure created in the system when antifreeze circulates.

What is a stove fan

A fan is a functional element that drives air through the heater radiator and into the cabin. The fan, along with the radiator, pipes for refrigerant circulation, liquid regulator and air duct, is part of the heating unit. Its purpose is to drive cold air through a heated radiator, creating heat exchange.

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Node functions

The heater fan is a motor that supplies air. You can imagine its operation in more detail only during the operation of the entire heating system:

As the car engine heats up, liquid enters it, cooling the walls of the cylinder block and taking away heat.
Hot antifreeze enters the heater radiator, and the latter quickly heats up.
A motor (fan) is turned on, supplying flows of cold air, thereby cooling the element.
The interior of the car begins to warm up.

The heating diagram of the VAZ 2113–2115 clearly shows the purpose of the motor

Where is the VAZ 2113-2115 heater motor located?

On VAZ 2113-2115 vehicles, the heater motor is located in the engine compartment. It is covered with a protective casing secured with four screws. The fan itself is also supported by bolts and nuts and is connected to the body of the car.

Three main water pump problems

During the operation of domestic vehicles, you can sometimes hear noise and play in the bearings. If damage is detected, you should not drive the car for a long time, otherwise the pump may jam or rupture.
The substance boils away through the hole - this is an alarming signal that indicates rapid wear of the spare part.
A broken impeller means a malfunction; the car’s engine quickly overheats.

Cooling fan: The car engine will also overheat greatly if the fan in the vehicle is not working properly.

Poorly tightened and faulty clamps can cause your personal car to overheat. Sometimes it happens that thin hoses become clogged and therefore the throttle valve heating return flows poorly.

Cleaning and flushing the radiator of the VAZ 2114/15 stove

You can increase the efficiency of the stove by cleaning and flushing the radiator. The procedure can be performed without dismantling the radiator or with dismantling it. In the first case, you will need to remove the outlet and inlet pipes from the heater and pour a cleaning solution into it. Citric acid, plumbing cleaners (for example, “Mole”), etc. are used as such a solution. Then the radiator is washed with running water and coolant is added. You can clean the radiator better by removing it from the car. This will allow you to wash it not only from the inside, but also from the outside, removing dirt between the honeycombs. Washing is usually carried out with running water.

If after performing these procedures the stove does not work better, the radiator must be replaced.

Video: flushing the stove radiator

Thus, diagnosing a malfunction and determining the cause of poor heating of the VAZ 2114/15 interior with your own hands is quite simple. Self-repair and replacement of individual elements of the heating system are also not very difficult. It is enough just to strictly follow the recommendations of specialists.

With the onset of cold weather, car owners often find that their car's interior heating system is not working efficiently. Everything seems to be fine, but the air coming from the deflectors is not warm enough. This problem may be an indication that the car’s heater core is clogged and cannot pass the required amount of heated coolant through it.

What to do in such a situation: replace the heater or try to repair it? Do not rush to resort to radical measures. If the heat exchanger does not leak, it can be repaired.

In this article we will talk about how to flush the heater radiator without removing it from the car. In addition, we will discuss which products are best suited for this procedure.

Changing the coolant strictly according to the maintenance regulations

It is important to change the coolant frequently to prevent engine damage, because over time, it loses its properties and is subject to heating. To carry out work on changing antifreeze or antifreeze, you need to know the important components:

To carry out work on changing antifreeze or antifreeze, you need to know the important components:

Know the period during which you can use cooling liquid, antifreeze for 2 years, antifreeze for 5 years.

Monitor the mileage for fluid changes, usually from 20,000 to 40,000.

Check the condition of the fluid, paying attention to the color; if the color has changed after use, the fluid must be replaced.

Of course, the best choice would be antifreeze as a coolant, because... It has a longer shelf life, unlike antifreeze, and the system wears out less. But the price indicator for antifreeze is much cheaper.

When flushing the cooling system, you must:

Drain all coolant from the system, tighten the plugs tightly and fill with distilled water to the maximum mark.
Start the engine and warm up until operating temperature is reached.
Let it run at about 3000 rpm. Be sure to monitor the movement of the engine temperature scale to avoid overheating.
Then turn it off and leave it for 7 minutes, after which we pour the water out of the system. In case of water contamination, repeat the procedure until the effect of clean water is achieved.

Resistor fault

Despite the fairly simple design of the heater, some of its elements may fail over time. At the same time, the probability of failure of the heating system as a whole is quite small. The most common stove failures include:

problems with the radiator;
faucet leak;
wear of pipes;
resistor failure;
switch malfunctions.

Let's look at each fault block in more detail.

As noted above, the resistor is designed to change the level of resistance of the current supplied from the generator to the heating system fan. In the VAZ-2114, using a switch, you can ensure the fan operates in three modes. In the extreme position, the fan is powered by a voltage equal to the nominal voltage of the vehicle's on-board network, providing maximum power output.

If the windings burn out, regardless of the switch position, the fan operates only at full power. The inability to switch fan operating modes is evidence of a resistor malfunction.

A faulty resistor may be indicated by the fan operating in one mode, when manipulations with the switch do not affect its blowing speed. To replace the resistor, you need to prepare a screwdriver with a Phillips head, fine-grain sandpaper and a multimeter. Algorithm of actions:

disconnect the negative terminal of the battery;
unscrew the screws that secure the right console cover;
Use a screwdriver to unscrew the screws securing the right cover of the center console;
you will have access to the resistor, from which you need to disconnect all the wiring and evaluate the contacts for burning. If the contact surface is oxidized, use sandpaper to clean it down to metal;
It may well be that the resistor has lost its functionality precisely due to burning/oxidation of the contacts, so we assemble everything in the reverse order and check whether the fan will work in all normal modes;
in case of a negative result, again remove the negative terminal, the panel cover and unscrew the screw that secures the resistor to the body;
We remove the resistor and use a multimeter to measure the resistance at the resistor inputs and at the inputs of both windings. In the latter case, the indicator indicating the working condition of the additional elements is 0.2 Ohm. For the entire resistor, the standard resistance should be 0.8 ohms. If the multimeter readings do not match the specified values, replace the resistor with a new one, and then reassemble in the reverse order.

WHY DOESN'T THE OVEN TAP WORK?

Under the hood

Let's go to the salon.

In the cabin

Three final steps

Under the hood

Let's go to the salon.

In the cabin

Three final steps

One of the reasons for a non-working faucet is souring. As a result of corrosion under the influence of chemical liquids, the flag loses its mobility, and the tap stops opening or closing. If this happened when the tap was open, then warm air will flow inside even when no one needs it.

Sometimes a failed heater faucet in a VAZ 2114 leads to air in the system, the stove does not heat, and cold air enters the cabin.

But the most common defect is a leaking stove tap. Antifreeze gets into the car body and stains the floor mats. In both the first and second cases, it is necessary to replace the VAZ 2114 heater valve.

All owners of VAZ 2114, 2115 and other models unanimously claim that the original faucets that are equipped with the stoves of these cars are the most unreliable. The locking mechanism is a rubber membrane. Aluminum housings are susceptible to corrosion and quickly turn sour. True, the price of these parts is low - 80-120 rubles. Apparently, the price is calculated on the fact that the faucets will change every season.

Ceramic faucet is considered the most wear-resistant

But car owners don’t want to crawl under the car every time it gets cold, spoil their shoes with leaking antifreeze, and freeze inside the car. Yes, and this is a troublesome task - replacing the faucet on the VAZ 2114 stove. Therefore, motorists give preference to more reliable models of faucets:

ceramic, their locking mechanism is made of ceramic plates, and the body is made of high-quality plastic;
Ball valves, the locking element of which is a ball with holes.

Most VAZ 2114 owners prefer the Yavva ceramic faucet as one of the highest quality and most reliable. Although these models have lower heat transfer than ball models. The latter are susceptible to oxidation, but to a lesser extent than the duralumin models of AvtoVAZ cranes.

This malfunction occurs as a result of the heater housing drying out or due to souring of the shut-off device. The last reason is usually a consequence of the car being idle for a long time. In order not to damage the faucet or break the control cable, in such cases it should be opened very carefully, without using excessive force.

When the stove dries out, it is often not possible to diagnose the malfunction in time, since the leak may be minimal. But over time, the coolant leaking from the stove will certainly make itself felt. The first obvious sign of this malfunction is the appearance of a puddle on the floor of the car in the area of the passenger seat closer to the center panel. A driver or passengers with a good sense of smell can sense a characteristic odor before a puddle appears, which will only increase.

Another nuisance when the heater tap leaks is the formation of a thin oil deposit on the windshield, which appears as a result of evaporation of the coolant. At night, or when the sun shines directly into the driver's eyes, this can cause problems with the quality of vision, making it difficult to make the right decisions in a timely manner when the traffic situation changes.

To replace the faulty faucet of the VAZ-2114 stove, we will need 10/13 wrenches (socket ones will work much more conveniently), rags, a Phillips-head screwdriver, and a container for draining the coolant. Dismantling algorithm:

we drive the car onto an overpass/inspection hole, place a prepared container with a capacity of about 5 liters under the drain hole, unscrew the plug and wait until all the antifreeze is drained;
We look in the engine compartment for the pipes connecting the power unit to the tap, use a screwdriver to loosen the fastenings in the form of clamps, and remove the pipes;
go to the interior, unscrew the screws that secure the left panel cover;
on the right side under the panel we find the heater tap, to which the pipes from the engine compartment are connected, put a rag under them and use a screwdriver to remove both pipes;
go back to the engine compartment, find the studs on which the faucet is attached to the car body, unscrew the bolts with a 10mm wrench;
now nothing is holding the crane, we go into the interior and pull it out, disconnecting the drive fastening cable;
We attach the cable to the new tap, install it in its original place and reassemble it in the reverse order.

Removal and replacement instructions

If you need to dismantle the heater, you will need to completely remove and disassemble the dashboard. As for directly replacing the radiator device, it will be enough to only partially disassemble the console. Repairing such a plan is not a particularly simple undertaking, however, if you have patience and strength, you can do everything yourself. To perform the work, you will need standard plumbing tools, including screwdrivers, wrenches, and pliers.

Replacing the VAZ 2114 heater radiator is performed as follows:

First of all, the antifreeze is drained from the heating system. To do this, you need to unscrew the filler cap of the expansion tank and drain the consumables from the main radiator assembly into a previously placed container under the drain hole. When the liquid from the radiator is drained, it is necessary to unscrew the cap in the cylinder block, which will allow the liquid to be drained from the BC. If you notice that the antifreeze has become dark and contains sediment and deposits, then most likely the consumable has already reached the end of its service life and it’s time to change it. Next, you need to remove the audio system from the center console. Remove the frame, pull out the radio itself and disconnect the connectors and wires from it, after which the device can be dismantled. Next, remove the plug and unscrew the screws of the frame that secures the dashboard - in total you need to unscrew 4 screws - two on top and two on the bottom. It is not necessary to dismantle the device itself. After completing these steps, you will need to remove all control levers and sliders from the heating system control unit. Next, the protective cover on the steering column is dismantled; the clamps are located at the top and bottom. The next step is to remove the diagnostic connector cover; it is located in the center console, under the cigarette lighter. To do this, you need to unscrew the screws that secure the connector itself, after which the cover can be removed without any problems. During this step, be careful not to damage the connector. Having done this, you can disconnect the connector from the cigarette lighter. After completing these steps, you need to disconnect all connectors and plugs that are on the center console. At this stage, be careful - it is better to mark all the connectors in advance, otherwise you can confuse them during panel assembly. Next, the signaling unit is removed; to do this, you need to unscrew two screws. This will leave the center frame of the dashboard free so it can be removed. Having done this, you will be able to get to the cigarette lighter illumination connector; it will also need to be disconnected. The next step will be to dismantle the glove box. It is attached to six self-tapping screws; they need to be unscrewed. There are fasteners on the sides of the control panel - self-tapping screws; they will also need to be unscrewed. Remove the screws that secure the ECU mount. Then unscrew a few more screws that secure the heating system control unit. Next, there are plastic trims on the A-pillars; they will need to be dismantled; to do this, again, you need to unscrew the screws. There is a special screw between the steering column and the panel, which also needs to be unscrewed. Having completed these steps, you have loosened the center console, now all that remains is to lift it up and towards the seats. It is not necessary to completely remove the console - you just need to have it pulled back enough to remove the radiator. The panel must be fixed to the side. Now you need to get to the clamps installed on the hoses of the heating unit; use a screwdriver to loosen them. Remove the hoses, but before doing this, wrap them with a rag, since they will most likely release residual antifreeze.

Pay attention to the condition of the pipes - if you see that they are worn out or heavily clogged, or there are signs of damage, then it is better to replace them immediately. The radiator is directly fixed to the heater body using three self-tapping screws - they need to be unscrewed, and the device itself must be removed

After dismantling, the device is replaced with a new one, the assembly procedure is carried out in the reverse order.

Price issue

Prices for radiators vary, but they vary roughly within the same range. The cost of devices depends on the quality of the product, the manufacturer, and the place where it is purchased. For example, Luzar products for the VAZ 2114 on average cost on the market from 900 to 1300 rubles. Aluminum radiators from the manufacturer DAAZ cost on average about 1 thousand rubles.

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Maintenance

Regular maintenance of the cooling system comes down to checking the level of the coolant mixture in the expansion tank and monitoring its color. It is recommended to check before each trip or, in extreme cases, regularly every 500 - 600 km.

The level of the coolant mixture in the tank must constantly exceed the minimum level by 2...3 cm. Checking the level and adding fluid must be carried out only on a cold engine. The mixture intended for topping up must be of the same type as the liquid poured into the system. Mixing different types is not recommended.

Replacing the heater motor

The following sequential steps must be performed:

The electrical network is completely de-energized.
The positive wire should be disconnected from the motor. It is located under the dashboard.
It is necessary to unscrew two bolts located in the engine compartment. They serve to hold the stove casing.
Then you need to disconnect the mass.
Unscrew and remove two bolts that serve to secure the fan to the heater housing.
The air duct grille is being dismantled. To do this, the element is rotated 90 degrees and removed from the casing.
The device should be assembled using the reverse sequence. The power supply contacts must be securely fixed. Otherwise, the assembly will have to be disassembled a second time.

Instructions for replacing the heater radiator VAZ 2114

From the manual for operation, repair and maintenance of VAZ 2113-2114-2115

Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery.
Open the tap and drain the coolant from the system.
Remove the instrument panel.
On the right side of the stove, loosen the clamp of the heated glass damper rod.
Unscrew the three screws that secure the heater radiator.
Remove the radiator from the heater body.
Loosen the clamps and disconnect the hoses from the heater tap pipes in the cabin, under the panel.
Loosen the hose clamps and disconnect them from the radiator.
Installing a new radiator is done in the reverse order.

For more information on this procedure, we recommend this video.

Usually they start replacing the heater radiator when the problem is already obvious, coolant is pouring into the cabin and this is not good, as you yourself understand.

First you need to drain the coolant. Unscrew the screw under the plastic plug.

Unscrew the 2 upper and 2 lower self-tapping screws located at the instrument panel.

Remove the steering column cover by unscrewing 3 screws and three self-tapping screws from the bottom.

Disconnect the connector going to the cigarette lighter.

Disconnect and remove the radio

Now we can unscrew the screw fastening the plastic console from both sides. They are located symmetrically.

Then remove the adjustment flags and the heater fan mode switch.

Now we can detach the console from the panel.

We disconnect the terminals from the buttons on the console; it is advisable to mark them so as not to confuse them later.

Disconnect the plug for the ashtray light.

Unscrew the screws from the diagnostic connector.

Now the console is completely free and can be moved to the side.

We unscrew the 2 screws that attach the metal base to the floor, you can see the first one in the photo, the second one is located symmetrically to the first one on the left side.

Now we need to unscrew the 4 screws securing the torpedo, 2 of them are located on the right, and 2 symmetrically on the left.

We unscrew the two self-tapping screws embedded in the iron base.

We disconnect 2 self-tapping screws located in the iron structure.

We unscrew 2 more screws and remove this structure by pulling out the ECU.

We lift the dashboard and access to the heater radiator is free.

Just in case, place a rag on the floor, since coolant may leak from the radiator. Unscrew the clamps of the heating system.

We drain the antifreeze from the stove and hoses. We remove the old current heater. We reassemble everything in the reverse order.

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Sequence of repair work

Also need a new head gasket and valve cover gasket. Having all this, you can begin the renovation. The sequence of actions for repairs is as follows:

The car is placed in the garage, the gearbox is set to neutral, and chocks are placed under the rear wheels. The first thing that is done after setting up the car is to de-energize the on-board network by disconnecting the “-” terminal from the battery.
The pressure in the fuel system is relieved. For this purpose, there is a control valve on the fuel rail in the form of a regular tire valve. You need to place a container under this valve and clamp the spool. When the pressure is released, gasoline will leak out. You will also need to drain the coolant using drain plugs.
On the engine, you need to set the piston of the 1st cylinder to the TDC position. To do this, remove the protective cover of the timing belt and rotate the crankshaft until the marks on the pulley, camshaft and flywheel match.
The next step is to remove the valve covers. To do this, all pipes, the throttle drive rod, the accelerator drive bracket and the valve cover mounting nuts are disconnected from the cover fittings.
The exhaust pipe of the exhaust gas removal system is disconnected from the exhaust manifold. These works are carried out under the car.
The wiring is disconnected from the mass flow sensor, the air supply pipe to the throttle assembly is removed, after which it is completely dismantled along with the air filter housing.
Then you need to disconnect from the head all the elements suitable for the head - pipes of the cooling system of the throttle assembly, vacuum booster, throttle drive linkage, ground wires, bracket for the exhaust manifold supply pipe.
The intake manifold strut mounts are also loosened, and the struts themselves are removed. Next, the wiring is disconnected from - oil pressure sensors, coolant temperature and throttle position sensors, XX regulator, injectors, high-voltage wires from spark plugs.
Then the timing belt is removed. Before this, you need to once again check the alignment of the marks on the crankshaft pulley and the timing gear. After this, the belt tension is loosened and it is removed from the timing gear.
To remove the camshaft gear, you will need to fix it through the technological holes and unscrew the fastening bolt. You need to remove it from the shaft carefully so as not to lose the key. After this, you will need to remove the rear cover, located behind the removed gear, from the head and block.
The cooling system pipes are removed from the head along with the thermostat from the head, as well as the rest of the wiring. The fuel supply and drain pipes are also disconnected.
All that remains is to unscrew the head bolts. But to do this, they must first be weakened, and in a strictly defined order. And only after relaxation do they completely unscrew. If disassembly is done correctly, after removing the bolts, you can remove the head and remove the damaged gasket. At this point, the first part of the repair is considered complete.

Main causes of malfunction

There can be several reasons for such problems, but the most common are:

Worn or damaged pipes.
Incorrect connection of pipes.
Broken stove tap.
Radiator failure.

The first of these reasons - wear of pipes - can occur for natural reasons during operation, since the chemicals contained in coolants have a corrosive effect, which is complemented by the influence of high temperature.

In addition, the hoses of the VAZ 2114 stove can be easily damaged by over-tightening the clamps on them. When such damage occurs, fluid leaks from the system.

In total, VAZ 2114 cars have 4 pipes. Two of them are located under the hood and two in the cabin.

Their damage, which led to a coolant leak, can be judged by the following indirect signs:

there is a constant drop in the liquid level;
a specific smell appeared in the cabin;
A puddle of coolant forms under the car or in the passenger compartment while parked.

If at least one of these signs is observed, then urgent diagnostics of the pipes should be carried out and their replacement.

Another video with an example of replacement

The stove valve in the car opens or blocks access to warm air into the car body, thereby regulating the heat supply to the cabin. Sometimes the heating and cooling system refuses to function properly, stops supplying heat, or supplies it in unlimited quantities. What this may be connected with and how to eliminate such malfunctions, you will find out below.

A working faucet is the key to a warm car interior

The VAZ-2114 car uses a hidden engine cooling circuit with an injector. It is highly complex and includes 28 elements. Traditionally, the assembly of the cooling system of this car is not of high quality. Therefore, throughout the entire period of operation, it requires constant monitoring, regular maintenance and repair.

1. How to properly replace the coolant mixture?
2. How to flush the cooling system?
3. How to remove air from the VAZ-2114 cooling system?
4. How to properly replace the cooling system pipes?

Symptoms of a problem

The main reason why probably 90% of people who want to replace the stove radiator turn to a car service center is the following: “the stove is not heating well, what should I do?” In this case (at least in a normal car service, where the mechanics’ task is to solve the client’s problem, and not to fulfill “any whim for your money”), first of all, the cooling system is checked for problems.

Problems that cause this symptom include:

faulty thermostat;
air lock in the cooling system;
the heating radiator is clogged;
The stove tap is closed.

Let's look at each in more detail below.

Thermostat

One of the reasons for poor heating of the stove in the cold season may be the thermostat being stuck in the open position. In this case, the coolant immediately goes into a large circle when the engine starts. As a result, the car takes a very long time to warm up, the engine does not warm up properly, and the heater does not heat up either.

If in your case poor heating of the interior in winter is combined with slow warming up of the engine, pay attention to the thermostat. By the way, in the hot summer this problem may not be noticed

The engine warms up more slowly than usual, but only an experienced car enthusiast will notice this.

It also happens that the thermostat gets stuck in the closed position. In this case, the stove also does not work, and the engine, on the contrary, boils faster than usual. In cold winter, the problem may not be noticed if you only drive short distances and avoid traffic jams.

Airlock

An air lock most often forms after replacing antifreeze. But there may be other reasons for airing the system. We have a special material on our website completely devoted to this issue. If necessary, we recommend contacting him. It’s easy to check the system: you need to warm up the car until the fan turns on and carefully probe all the pipes

Pay special attention to those connected to the radiator valve fittings. By feeling an area whose temperature is different from the neighboring one, you can verify the presence of this problem.

Heating radiator clogged

Another reason for a poorly functioning stove is this. The radiator clogs for a number of reasons:

antifreeze does not change at the correct frequency, which is why deposits appear on its walls, which clog the channels;
there was a breakdown of the pump impeller, particles of which got into the radiator;
destruction of the inner surface of the radiator due to age-related reasons.

If there is a suspicion of clogging (and there should be, if all other elements of the cooling system are working normally), you should use special means for flushing the cooling system.

Stove tap

It may clog or sour in the half-closed position. Or is it simply covered up? Perhaps the previous owner preferred to drive cool. Check how it opens and closes and whether there are any leaks.

And finally, if all of the above didn't work, congratulations. It begins...

Subtleties of filling new antifreeze

Before you start filling in new coolant, you need to drain the old one, and also thoroughly clean the entire cooling system of contaminants. To do this, it is better to use a special cleaning agent that can be purchased at a car enthusiast store. Make sure that all taps and plugs of the VAZ-2114 are open. You can determine whether the system has been flushed or not based on the color of the antifreeze flowing out.

The plugs and tap are closed only when the product becomes transparent. If the manufacturer describes in the instructions the specifics of using the cleaning mass, follow these rules for effective cleaning. As for the level of antifreeze filling, some drivers prefer to fill to the limit mark, others deliberately do not top up, and later, after a successful test, add more fluid.

After the antifreeze has been replaced, all that remains is to close the expander and start the car engine. The motor should idle until the furnace fan starts running.

What will be needed for repairs?

Please note that replacing the VAZ 2114 stove can be done in 2 ways: with removing the dashboard and without dismantling the dashboard. Professionals prefer the first method

That is, master mechanics of any service station replace the radiator with a 2114, having first disassembled the top down to the screw. Only someone who has already assembled and disassembled the dashboard with their own hands can handle this work. There are a lot of subtleties and nuances.

Speaking for us, we will replace the VAZ 2114 stove radiator without removing the dashboard.

But again, only highly qualified craftsmen can qualitatively change the design of the machine. We won't interfere there, out of harm's way.

For this job we will need:

Screwdriver Set
A set of keys
A pair of new clamps for the diameter of the radiator pipes
New radiator. By the way, it’s better to take something imported, for example, Fenox RO0004C3 (it costs twice as much as the original)
New antifreeze for the heating system

By the way, pay attention to the article about the advantages and disadvantages of various types of radiators. Now let's look at the question of how to replace a VAZ 2114 stove without removing the panel (only the radiator)

Now let's look at the question of how to replace a VAZ 2114 stove without removing the panel (only the radiator).

Replacing the front brake hose on a "tag" - step-by-step guide

The first step is to determine the location of the damage and decide which hose you need. In this case, the front brake hose burst. Next, we buy everything we need and get to work. The photo shows the location of the rupture (damage).

We begin the work by tearing off the wheel bolts while the car is standing on four wheels, then jack up the side we need, unscrew the bolts and remove the wheel.

We treat the bolts with WD-40 and wait until the liquid eats away the rust and allows you to easily unscrew the connection. Next, unscrew the hose connected to the metal brake pipe

Using a wrench set to “15”, hold the tip of the hose, and with another wrench set to “10”, carefully unscrew the brake pipe fitting. Here it is important to be as careful as possible, since it is very easy to rip off or “lick off” the edges. If the nut does not budge, use a special wrench for brake hoses. This wrench allows you to tighten it, making the connection between the wrench and the threaded connection stronger.

After the connection is unscrewed, the tube should be plugged with something of a suitable diameter, this is necessary in order to avoid leakage of the fuel fluid.

Now, using a key set to “15”, unscrew the hose fitting connected to the brake cylinder. There is a copper ring installed between the cylinder and the fitting, which it is advisable to replace, but if it is in order, then you can do without it.

Then we reassemble in reverse order. However, it is too early to put an end to this. Before you enjoy the work done, you need to bleed the brake system to remove all the air that has entered the vehicle. I won’t tell you how to bleed the brake system, you can read about this in one of my previous articles - here is a link to this article

After bleeding the brake system, check the tightness of the connections and the level of fuel fluid in the system. Next, let's check how everything works. I warn you, do not rush to accelerate too much to test the brakes, anything can happen, if the brakes fail, you can cause an accident and damage your or someone else’s car. First, check how everything works somewhere in a sparsely populated place at low speed; if everything is ok, check how the car behaves on an empty highway.

Removing the heater radiator on a VAZ-2114

The design and structure of the VAZ-2114 heater is fundamentally no different from any similar one. If it is definitely established that it is the heat exchanger that is leaking (or clogged), then you need to change it. This can be done without removing the tidy or by removing it.

Replacing the heater core without removing the instrument panel

Remove the terminals from the battery to avoid shorting the wiring.
Drain the coolant into a separate container (this fluid can be reused, so do this as carefully as possible).
Unscrew the screws securing the glove compartment and console.
Remove the steering column cover.
Unscrew the screws that hold the front dashboard (so that you can move it freely).
Remove the heater operating mode control cables, which are located on the driver's and passenger's sides.
Disconnect the cigarette lighter connector.
Disconnect the center console connectors, first marking them (1, 2, 3, etc.) to facilitate reassembly.
After unscrewing the two screws, remove the signaling unit.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GcNZ7y50KQ4

Remove the plastic ends from the heater and damper adjustments.
Remove the central frame of the tidy, then disconnect the cigarette lighter illumination.
Unscrew the fasteners on the sides (one screw at the top and bottom).
Unscrew the bolts securing the engine control unit.
Unscrew the bolts securing the iron frame to the bottom (on the left and right sides).
It is better to remove the trim of the front pillars so that they do not interfere.
Remove the screw between the dashboard and the steering column.
Remove the cover from the heat exchanger.
Unscrew the two screws closer to the passenger door and the one on the panel in the upper right corner, it is closed with a plug near the buttons.
Carefully move the dashboard towards the seats, lift it up a little and lock it in such a position to easily remove the heat exchanger (you need to pull it out very carefully so as not to break anything).
Remove the clamps and disconnect the rubber ones (place a container under them so as not to spill the “precious” coolant).
Remove the heat exchanger by unscrewing the three screws securing it to the housing.

Replacing a radiator with complete removal of the dashboard

This method is suitable for those who, in addition to replacing the heater, plan to take care of the appearance of their car’s dashboard (switching to modern devices, installing LED lighting, etc.) or gluing additional sound insulation. This method is much more labor-intensive than the first and requires additional skill and skill. Well, the result, of course, can be noticeably better: not only will the interior heating improve, but the appearance will also change. This method is also suitable for those whose dashboard squeaks and at the same time you can glue the tidy and get rid of the squeak.

Let's start in order:

Disconnect the equipment from the power supply (by disconnecting the terminals on the battery).
Remove the side trims.
Remove the radio (if you have one).
Turn off the cigarette lighter and remove the ashtray.
Disconnect the stove control levers.
We unscrew the two screws on the right and left sides of the tidy.
Remove the plastic trim by unscrewing the screws from the top and bottom of the dashboard.
We unscrew the screws securing the tidy in the area of the center console.
Remove the plug in the upper right corner of the dashboard and unscrew the screw.

To remove the cover, you need to unscrew the two screws holding the bottom of the cover.
We move the cover and after marking the connectors, disconnect them.
Remove the steering column trim by unscrewing the fastener.
Unscrew the lower bracket fastening.
We remove the intermediate housing from the torpedo socket.
Unscrew the holder and controller of the fuel injection system relay.
We pry up the dashboard and press forward. There is a cable coming from the speedometer, it needs to be pulled out.
Remove the decorative inserts on the dashboard.
Now you can remove the torpedo carefully, checking again to see if everything is disconnected.

After removing the heat exchanger, you need to purchase a new one. It can be: copper (brass) or aluminum. Which one is better is up to you to choose; we will only tell you about their qualities.

Replacing the thermostat

Remove the air filter.

Drain the antifreeze into a prepared container.

Remove the four hoses by lowering the clamps. Keep in mind that a small amount of antifreeze may spill.

Carefully remove the thermostat.

We clean the nest from dust and other residues. We take a new thermostat and apply a layer of sealant to all joints with the hoses, then wait 10 minutes.

To further install the new thermostat, follow these instructions in reverse order:

install four hoses;
fill with coolant;
install the air filter.

Removing the air filter housing

We unscrew the 2 nuts from the front and pull out the plug behind the body.

We remove the connector from the MAF sensor; you need to press the latch from below and pull the connector.

After loosening the clamp, carefully remove the air hose.

Slowly remove the air filter housing, slightly loosening it.

The filter is assembled in the same way, but in reverse order.