How to replace silent blocks in a field without removing the lever

Replacing silent blocks

The silent blocks had dried out and cracked, although they would have endured another N amount of time, but I still decided to change them (I still didn’t suspect what it would be like).

Along the way, I also decided to replace the springs at the front (spacers at the rear), thereby raising the car a little, well, I didn’t like the fact that the 2131 sits so low (lower than the usual 3D), after all, it’s a Niva.

We begin disassembling the front suspension: - Remove the wheel

—
Unscrew the 3 bolts of the upper ball joint (with a 13 head, but you may also need a 12 head as I had)
— Unscrew the 3 bolts of the lower ball joint

Don’t forget to first spray all the bolts with VDshka or something similar. You can also hang the suspended part of the suspension (so as not to harm the CV joints) either by the ball or by the steering knuckle, and also put something under the brake disc, under the lower arm, you can also tighten the spring with a tie.

—Unscrew the 2 bolts of the clip securing the stabilizer bar (with a 13 head)

you need to be more careful, otherwise you can break off these bolts, then you will have to drill and work a little with a grinder, as happened in my case.

—Unscrew the 2 shock absorber mounting nuts

On the right side, the cup for the spring and the bump stop (or rather the compression stroke buffer) is cracked.

By the way, the spring was also cracked. Which indicated that the right side had clearly either hit an obstacle (for example, a tree stump) (as evidenced by a dented washer on the lower arm), or that a good hole had been caught. We welded a cup under the spring, installed a new bump stop (compression stroke buffer)

And now the fun begins. You need to remove the lever, in order to remove it you need to remove the lower axis of the lever, but it is stuck and does not give in to anything, not counting the fact that the silent blocks themselves are also stuck. This axle doesn’t want to succumb to blows from a sledgehammer, we try to heat it up with a portable torch (silent blocks need to be replaced anyway), hit it with a sledgehammer again - nothing happens.

We sawed the lever (then welded it together), we thought it would be easier to knock it out; nothing would interfere.

The next day they brought a cutting torch (gas welding). We heat it (after covering the CV joints with a sheet of asbestos), hit it with a sledgehammer, heat it up again and hit it with a sledgehammer again - and finally it gave in... knocked it out...

But it was on the left side that Gray’s real hemorrhage began

We try to knock it out, but it doesn’t work. Let's warm up again, warm up, warm up...

Doesn't go anywhere. They decided to throw these axles out anyway and try to bend them and turn them. By the way, the axles are kind of strange (not like in the store), there are threads on both sides, they were heated and bent

Once again we heat it up, hit it with a sledgehammer and at the same time try to turn it by putting a pipe on the end of the bent axle... to no avail. There is only one thing left to drill, we bought a drill (12 if memory serves), by the way you need to take a good hardened drill (so that it doesn’t turn out like mine, see below), first we drill with a small drill, then with a large one. Result:

Source

How to change the upper silent blocks of a lever on a Niva

To replace the silent blocks of the upper arm we will need:

1. 22mm socket wrench.
2. Hammer.
3. Penetrating lubricant WD-40.
4. Puller for silent blocks or hydraulic press.
5. A set of new upper arm silent blocks.

Puller for silent blocks

Perhaps, in difficult cases, a gas burner will come in handy. If there is one, you don’t have to think too much about how to press the silent block out of the lever, but simply burn out the rubber and knock out the remains of the silent block from the seats. If you have all this, you can start working.

1. We park the car on a level surface, tighten the handbrake and jack up the front end.
2. We install a stand under the lower arm, lower the car onto the stand to unload the upper arm. This is a must!
3. We remove the wheel and clean the nuts securing the silent blocks from dirt, and also clean and lubricate the nuts securing the upper arm axle with penetrating grease.
4. We unscrew the three nuts securing the upper ball joint and at the same time check the condition of its boot. Raise the lever on the axle.
5. Without forgetting about the adjusting washers and without losing them, we remove the entire lever assembly.
6. Using a 22 wrench, unscrew the nuts securing the silent blocks and thrust washers.

• We tighten all the nuts only after the suspension is loaded, that is, with the car lowered onto a stand under the lower control arm. After replacing the silent blocks, it is advisable to check the camber/toe of the front wheels.

Replacement

To carry out the work you will need a garage with a pit, as well as a standard set of tools.

Required tools and materials

First of all, you need to stock up on new silent blocks. It is also recommended to buy bolts and nuts for securing the arms so as not to use old ones.

Materials and tools you will need:

• WD-40 product;
• ½" and 1/4" collars;
• open-end wrenches and heads from 13 to 24;
• strong wrench and pipe to increase torque;
• bottle type jack;
• puller;
• chisel;
• hammer.

When to change the upper arm silent blocks

The service life of the upper silent blocks of the front suspension on the Niva is quite high. However, signs of wear may appear already after a mileage of 70-80 thousand km, or even earlier if the car is operated on a dirt road. The first sign of a worn silent block is a creaking and knocking sound when driving over uneven surfaces.

In the most advanced cases, a worn silent block will affect the car's handling and ability to keep a straight line; increased uneven tire wear and yaw along the road in a straight line are possible. The easiest way to determine the condition of the silent block is visually - there should be no cracks or chips on the surface of the rubber, and there should be no delamination or play.

Video process of installing silent blocks

Video possible cause of a burst bushing

1200 rub. for the photo report

To change the silent blocks of the lever, the first thing you need to do is remove this lever , so the task will not be easy and will take a lot of time, and if you are going to change the lower levers, then there will be even more work, because then you will also need to remove the spring. Fortunately, in our case it is enough to unscrew the nuts of the upper ball and the nuts of the bolts securing the Niva arm itself. All that remains is to knock out or press out the silent blocks by holding the lever in a vice and beating it fairly with a hammer.

Many owners burn off rubber silent blocks from the Niva suspension arms using a lamp, which does not have a very good effect on the arms themselves, because after heating the metal becomes softer. The silent blocks are pressed back into the lever using a good vice through the head at “22”, having previously lubricated the holder with graphite lubricant. So if you have never changed the silent blocks in the levers of a VAZ 2121 before, you will have to work hard, but an experienced master can change all eight silent blocks of the front suspension on a Niva in 2-3 hours.

Which silent block is better for Niva?

There are two dozen different silent blocks on sale, ranging from factory VAZ ones to polyurethane ones of various hardnesses. It is not advisable to install polyurethane silent blocks that are too hard - all the vibration will be on the body, and in cold weather a squeak is guaranteed.

The quality and characteristics of polyurethane silent blocks strongly depend on the rigidity of the material, so they must be installed with the expectation that vibrations on the steering wheel and body will be inevitable, and the service life is unpredictable. According to the owners' reviews, the best option for the Niva is VAZ rubber silent blocks, which have proven themselves well over many years of operation.

Silent blocks Chevrolet Niva. Device and purpose. Replacement.

Despite the fact that some car suspension repair work is carried out according to regulations, unscheduled interventions cannot be ruled out. Each car service has a price list, which indicates the cost of a particular service without taking into account the cost of spare parts. Among the entire list is the replacement of silent blocks. Not every car owner knows what this unit is and what it serves. Meanwhile, this work is expensive, so most motorists prefer to carry out such manipulations themselves. If, for example, you replace the silent blocks of a Chevrolet Niva yourself, you will be able to save several thousand rubles on repairing the front suspension.

Design and purpose of silent block

When driving a car on the road, and especially when driving it over uneven surfaces, the suspension takes on enormous loads. However, some suspension components must remain movable. We are talking about levers, and it doesn’t matter whether the suspension is multi-link or MacPherson system.

When the lever rotates about its fulcrum, we speak of a hinge joint. But the car's suspension arm experiences axial, radial and angular loads. In this case, all vibrations must be damped and not transmitted to the body. In such cases, the silent block plays the role of a hinge. The design principle of all silent blocks is the same. They differ only in shape or size. It is represented by two concentric bushings, between which there is a rubber (polyurethane) insert. The rubber is fixedly fixed relative to the bushings, and it can only vibrate due to its own elasticity.

Thus, the silent block allows not just a hinged, but an elastic connection between the lever and the axle. They come in several types. Some of them do not have an outer ring. The rubber product is pressed into the eye of the lever (by lever we here mean any rotating body), but the principle of its operation does not change.

Diagnosis of silent block faults

It is impossible to accurately indicate the service life of silent blocks, because everything depends on the quality of the rubber insert and the operating conditions of the vehicle. But everyone understands that sooner or later they will have to be replaced. There are several methods of self-diagnosis. All these methods can be implemented comprehensively in order to make an accurate verdict regarding repairs.

First of all, I would like to note that a faulty silent block causes a decrease in the car’s handling on the highway, and also causes extraneous noise or knocking in the suspension.

Any driver will immediately feel changes for the worse. But similar symptoms also appear when the ball joints are faulty, so you will have to use the method of elimination.

• For convenience, you should hang the wheel. Giving it variable forces at the top and bottom points, you need to rock the hub in a vertical plane. The presence of play is very easy to determine. It is important to make sure that the source of this play is the silent block and not the ball joint.
• It is necessary to visually inspect the entire lever mounting assembly. Small cracks are allowed on the elastic bands, but there should not be large breaks. A rupture of the rubber rim, which is visible from under the bushing, is not yet a cause for concern, but a sign of imminent failure of the silent block.
• The axis of rotation of the lever and the axis of the silent block must coincide. If they are at an angle to each other, then this indicates that the rubber has begun to deteriorate, and under load the inner bushing has shifted relative to the outer one.

Some craftsmen advise using a mounting tool to open the lever and swing it. But doing this on a loaded suspension is problematic, so the above diagnostic methods are quite sufficient.

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old style silent blocks

The topic of the article is silent blocks in the field. What is this anyway? This is a rubber-metal hinge, or a polymer-metal (polyurethane) hinge, which works in torsion. There is an internal metal bushing that is tightly clamped onto the axle, there is an outer bushing that is pressed into the lever and an elastic elastomer between these bushings. In relation to our car: these are the front lower and upper control arms, as well as a set of rear linkages. Other “rubber bands”, from the point of view of classical mechanics, are not silent blocks.

Replacing the upper silent blocks

If the technical inspection confirms that the part is faulty, it must be replaced. Replacing the upper silent blocks on a Niva is a roughly similar operation on the rear suspension of an SUV as on the front. Let's look at this process using the example of how to replace these vibration isolators on the front upper arm. The algorithm of actions is as follows:

First of all, you should unscrew the wheel from the required side. Then dismantle the upper ball joint by unscrewing its fastening nuts. Afterwards, the process of dismantling the lever itself occurs, which is carried out by unscrewing the nuts of the bolts securing it. After dismantling the lever, using a special puller or a hammer with a small chisel, the old silent block is knocked out of its seat

The procedure of burning out the silent block is very popular, but this negatively affects the condition of the levers themselves, since the metal softens and loses its factory reliability. Next, it is important to clean the groove for the silent block from dirt, and then lubricate it with a thin layer of some kind of lubricant. Now you can “fit” the new part into the groove. It can also be lightly lubricated before planting.

Replacement completed

The last step in the work will be to reassemble the suspension in the reverse order, but without tightening the nuts and bolts at the mounting points. It is important to do tightening with the machine standing.

KEY-DOP

Silent blocks on the field, problem

Two questions arise. The first is associated, as usual, with quality. The second and third with the design feature and material.

• There are quite a lot of manufacturers of old-style silent blocks, but literally two of them produce decent quality. These are Balakovo residents, under the Tadem brand and Dimitrovgrad (in AvtoVAZ branded boxes). As I have already said in many articles, our rubber components (in Russia) are of very poor quality. This applies to cuffs, hoses, hinges, boots, seals. And on top of everything else, our endless geography. In the South it is 40, in the North it is -40. The most complaints about tires and SBL are in the northern regions of our country. The average period without rubber destruction (that is, before cracks appear) is 1-2 years. Of course, our people don’t give up, and roll out the suspension to the point where they can no longer hold the car on the width of the road, but that’s another question.
• The silent blocks on the field were not “drawn from scratch” as expected, but were adapted. That is, the SBL from the “penny” is slightly strengthened and modified. This didn't lead to anything good. The fact is that the rubber hinge moves layer by layer, and the layers do not immediately move by the entire given angle, but relative to each other. I'll try to explain with a everyday example. Everyone imagines a Napoleon cake, made from a pile of cake layers with filling placed between them. Let's turn on our imagination again, and dedicate what we saw to Picasso and Salvador Dali))) Napoleon cake lying not on the table, but wrapped around a large diameter pipe. The thicker our cake, the less movement each layer (crust) will have relative to each other. And if this is a “diet cake” and there are only two or three layers, our structure will fall apart very quickly. This is what happens with our “low-layer” silent blocks.
• Polyurethane is very good, like a modern material. But he has a peculiarity. It works very well for compression, but not very well for high torsion angles, with a small amount of “meat”. That is why SBL made of polyurethane, in this design, DO NOT GO FOR LONG TIME AT ALL. I won’t list the manufacturers whose products were installed, just take my word for it. The specificity of the loads is such that most often the polyurethane falls off from one of the bushings. And the SBL begins to work not as a hinge, but simply as a bushing. In addition, polyurethane is afraid of heat and in order for it to survive at least somehow, for the right side you have to install all sorts of different thermal screens that protect the exhaust pipe from heat. Rubber SBLs do not need this.

What we put

We tried many options from different manufacturers. Both with rubber and polyurethane. We settled on the regular supplier of AvtoTAZ, PJSC Balakovorezinotekhnika, brand TADEM. Be very careful, because as we understand, from our practice, in the glorious city of Balakovo, there are a lot of companies related to rubber, hoses and cuffs. All of them have “Balakovo” and “rubber” in their names, and whatever you want. And what is sold in markets and stores is quite honestly called “Balakovo silent blocks”, after the fact of their birth. But the quality leaves much to be desired. In my native St. Petersburg, in a wholesale office selling “palenki”, “Chinese Balakovo silent blocks” pendants are available at a very ridiculous price. When SBL “Tadem” is not available, you can supply Dimitrovgrad ones. Usually they are in the blue and white Lada-Image boxes. We haven’t come across anything of decent quality and durability from other manufacturers.

Installation features.

At this stage, the main part of the magic created by the Papuan service happens. In the fairy tale, the toad turned into a princess, but here it’s the other way around. Transformation of the princess into a toad, vile and disgusting.

• The suspension silent blocks must be tightened while the vehicle is standing on the ground. Or put the car on the ground, measure the distance from the wheel to a point on the wing. Raise the machine on the lift again and tighten the SBL to this distance. If you see that your suspension silent blocks are being tightened on a lift without measuring them, run away from there. The resource of any SBL of the best quality will in this case amount to several hundred kilometers.
• AvtoVAZ provides a very specific tightening force for the lower axle nut. Moreover, in the Fiat service manual, it is written separately that this must be done with a torque wrench. The tightening force was specified as 17-18 kg. More modern manuals indicate a more democratic force of 105-170 Newtons, or 10-17 kg. To ensure this force, you need a meter-long wrench. Therefore, when a locksmith has two wrenches or, even more fun, a ratchet in his hands, then.....look for another service.

Confusion

Back in 2008, the Niva family was restyled. The lower axles have been changed in thickness from 16mm to 18mm. Accordingly, different silent blocks are placed on the field. That is, silent blocks and axles of the old and new type. Among the people, the name thin and thick has taken root. They are NOT interchangeable. Silent blocks are not different for Niva or Shniva, it all depends only on the year of manufacture of the car. The year of transition is 2008. The upper silent blocks are the same on all cars of all years.

Chevrolet Niva suspension repair

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Prices for suspension and chassis repairs

Niva car suspension device

At one time, Niva became the first car that was completely developed by VAZ specialists. The difference between the model and the usual design of SUVs is the independent suspension, borrowed from Lada cars. Initially, experts reacted to this option with a degree of pessimism. However, it quickly became clear that the plant’s designers were not mistaken.

Important Note

Otherwise, silent blocks will last no more than a thousand kilometers. In addition, there is a torque rating for the lower axle nut. For Niva Chevrolet it is 100–170 N. This is quite a large force and without a long lever it will not be possible to tighten the nut correctly. Good luck with the replacement and as smooth roads as possible!

Why is the node disassembled?

There are several objective reasons why it is necessary to disassemble the entire front suspension and remove the lower arms. They are associated with the following circumstances:

1. most often the unit is disassembled to replace the rubber-metal articulated bushings - silent blocks;
2. the lower arm needs to be replaced due to its damage or breakage;
3. It is necessary to remove the front beam to replace it or carry out other repair work.

The problem is that on about 50% of Niva cars, the bolt, which is the axis of the lower arm, does not want to voluntarily leave the front beam bushing. In other words, the axle becomes so sour that it is not only impossible to pull it out, but even to turn it. Moreover, on Nivas produced back in the Soviet era, this problem does not exist.

This raises another reason why it is very advisable to disassemble the lower part of the suspension in the first year of operation of the machine - prevention.

Before the axis of the lower arm has time to firmly stick to the bushing, it must be removed, cleaned and lubricated with graphite lubricant. This will save you from many problems in the future, since dismantling a stuck bolt will take a huge amount of time at the most inopportune moment.

How to remove the lower arm bolt on a VAZ 2121 Niva?

When disassembling the front suspension of a VAZ 2121 and its modifications, many car enthusiasts are faced with the question of how to remove the bolt of the Niva lower arm. The fact is that this bolt is the axis on which the lever rests and turns. Therefore, when repairing the chassis, this unit cannot be bypassed; the bolt still has to be removed. Sometimes solving a problem can be quite complex and time-consuming, which is something that motorists who service their Niva themselves would do well to know.

Pre-disassembly procedure

To get to the axle, remove it and change the silent blocks, you need to prepare the tools:

1. jack with wheel wrench;
2. open-end and ring wrenches of standard sizes;
3. set of heads and knobs;
4. To dismantle rubber-metal hinges, it is advisable to have a puller;
5. powerful hammer;
6. mount;
7. other locksmith tools.

It is not necessary to carry out work on removing the lower arm axis from an inspection hole or on a lift; an open, flat area is sufficient. But some operations are more convenient to perform from a ditch, so its presence is desirable. It is better to wear cloth gloves on your hands so as not to bruise your fingers. Having secured the car in place using wheel chocks under the rear wheels, you can begin disassembly, which is carried out in the following sequence:

• Raise the car on a jack, unscrew and remove the front wheel. Place a block under the lower lever and lower the car onto it.
• Unscrew the 3 lower ball joint fasteners and separate the hub assembly from the arm.
• Unscrew the 2 nuts of the bracket that holds the end of the anti-roll bar to the side of the arm. Use a spatula to remove it from the studs.
• Disconnect the shock absorber from the spring support pad by unscrewing its lower mount. Raise the car with a jack and remove the spring. There is no need to remove the support pad from the lever, unless it is in the way.
• While holding the head of the long bolt that holds the lower arm, unscrew the nut on the other side and remove it along with the washer.
• Using a hammer and a round brass socket, carefully knock the axle out of the bushing. There are several adjusting washers inserted between it and the lever; when knocked out, they will fall out. You can't lose pucks.

The adjusting washers located between the lever and the front beam bushing are installed on the Niva 2121 at the factory. During assembly, they must be returned to their place in the same quantity. Once disassembly is complete, you can begin replacing the silent blocks using a puller. If this is not available, the old rubber-metal bushings are knocked out in a vice, and new ones are carefully pressed into their place using an extension from a piece of pipe.

When assembling the unit, it is very important to treat the entire surface of the lower arm axis with graphite lubricant.

This will save you from suffering and wasting a lot of time during the next disassembly if the bolt becomes tightly stuck.

There is no Chevrolet Niva V6, but I would like it. › Logbook › Replacing silent blocks of lower arms

I fiddled with it for a week while I was changing it. The service center scared me that my lever was bent and the bushing on the beam came off after a collision with something, they said the beam needed to be changed and the left lever, everything together with the replacement cost 38,500 rubles. So I decided to dig it myself. So I climbed in, took everything apart, measured everything with a caliper, everything turned out fine. One day I did one side at a buddy's garage. Well, the other one is on a lift in another garage. Once I assembled it, I went to look at the technological holes through which the beam is attached, and everything turned out to be OK. After I assembled everything, I measured the distances from them to the levers using a factory tape measure, and everything turned out to be even. On the left side where the washers were welded, a bolt was bent. I bought a new one, installed it and now it’s such a beauty. Surprisingly, everything was easy to figure out. I was preparing for the worst, that I would have to heat it and saw it with a grinder.

You can remove the lower arm without disassembling everything else.

-Let's jack up the car, -Remove the crankcase protection and check with a knob whether the axles of the levers rotate. -Remove the wheel. -Tighten the spring with zip ties so that it doesn’t shoot. -Place a log under the lever, lower the car with the lever onto the log. -Loosen the long bolt on which the lever is held by unscrewing the nut. -Unscrew the stabilizer bracket; if the studs break, drill holes for the bolts. -Unscrew the 3 bolts of the lower ball joint, pull it off the lower arm and place it on top of the lower arm fork. -Let's jack up the car again. -Carefully move the lower arm down and pull out the spring.

Old and new silent blocks for Niva Chevrolet

The topic of the article is silent blocks in the field. What is this anyway? This is a rubber-metal hinge, or a polymer-metal (polyurethane) hinge, which works in torsion. There is an internal metal bushing that is tightly clamped onto the axle, there is an outer bushing that is pressed into the lever and an elastic elastomer between these bushings.

Upper arm and silent blocks.

Rubber-metal articulated bushings (silent blocks) on all Nivas until 2008 had a different design from the modern one, and the design and dimensions changed only for the lower front ones.

Broken silent blocks of the old design

The service life of silent blocks of the old design ranged from two to three years, depending on the intensity of use and climatic conditions.

After 2008

On the new parts, the diameter of the inner sleeve increased by 2 mm, and the outer diameter by 7 mm, which could not but affect the service life. Old bushings turned out well from Balakovo and Dimitrovgrad silent blocks, they were packed in branded VAZ packaging. The quality of other manufacturers is poor.

New bushings are supplied to the conveyor. And about the new articles: the upper silent blocks, interchangeable with the old ones, received the number 2101-2904040, the new lower, reinforced ones - 2121 2904040.

Polyurethane silent block.

Not so long ago, polyurethane bushings, dampers and silent blocks became popular. The thing is good and useful, but you shouldn’t take polyurethane unconditionally enthusiastically and here’s the thing.

Classic regular silent block

For example, shock absorber bushings made from it are quite durable. But the silent block mainly works to twist, and the articulation of the SUV’s suspension implies large angles of rotation of the levers. And rubber parts cope better with this; on off-road they work smoother and longer.

What are silent blocks and their features

Silent blocks are units that connect suspension parts to each other and absorb shock loads when driving. They absorb vibrations during driving, providing comfort to passengers and driver. The parts are bushings with elastic inserts.

In the store you may hear a question about when your Niva was released. This is very important, since for models that came off the assembly line after 2008, silent blocks are made with an increased internal diameter by 2 mm, and an increased external diameter by 7. Thanks to this, the service life of the part increases. When purchasing, it is important to pay attention to the diameter of the nodes.

What to do when a part is stuck?

The first signs of trouble can be detected early. To do this, unscrew the axle mounting nut with a 24 mm wrench, and then use a socket with a wrench to try to turn the bolt. If this cannot be done even with the elongated lever of the crank, then get ready for a lot of work - the axle is clearly stuck. In some, especially advanced cases, a stuck bolt does not even allow the spring to be released and pulled out.

There are several ways to solve the problem, but none of them are easy and will require from 1 to 5 hours depending on the degree of souring of the axle. Experienced owners of Niva 2121 practice the following method of dismantling the part:

• Using an angle grinder, cut off the axle on both sides to free the lower arm and remove it.
• Use a gas torch or blowtorch to heat up the part of the front beam with the bushing.
• Try to move the axle with strong blows of a hammer. If this was possible, but the end of the cut bolt was flattened, then you need to trim it again and knock out the part completely.
• If the bolt does not move, it is necessary to repeat the heating and cooling cycles several times. You can weld a crowbar to the cut-off part of the axle, with which you can try to turn it while warming up.

The described procedure usually takes 1-2 hours. If after this time you have not been able to move or rotate the steel rod, you need to move on to drastic methods:

1. drilling a bolt from the sleeve with a hand drill;
2. complete disassembly of the chassis and removal of the front beam.

The dismantled beam must be taken to the nearest car service center, where the rod will be pressed out with a press or drilled out on a machine.

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Replacing silent blocks of Niva lower arms

In the front suspension, when starting off, clicks were periodically heard; the fault turned out to be the silent blocks of the lower arms. During a detailed inspection, I discovered that they were destroyed; on the right side, the inner part peeled off and flew out, because of this, the lever could move forward and backward, which was what produced the clicks.

To replace, you need a pit wrench for 24,19,13, a jack, a hammer, a silent block presser, wooden blocks, gloves, wd-40, a chisel, silent sides, 2 assembled axles.

We take off the wheel nuts, jack it up, and unscrew the wheel. We jack up the lever, unscrew the shock absorber, the lower ball joint, and the mounts of the lateral stability arm.

Gradually lower the lever, pull out the spring, unscrew the lever axis, knock out the axis, do not lose the adjusting washers, remember where they were, they are responsible for the camber, when reassembling, put them in place, remove the lever.

We knock out the old silent blocks, press in new ones, I pressed the first one in with a special filler, but it’s not very convenient, I hammered the next three with a hammer through the spacer from the bearing and parts from the silent block presser.

We screw everything in the reverse order, silent blocks, shock absorber for mounting the transverse stability, tighten it when the car is on its wheels.

It took about 4 hours to replace both sides. On the right side, the soured silent block had to be cut with a hacksaw. The bolts of the transverse stability clamp broke off when unscrewing, fortunately I took a jar of bolts and nuts with me in reserve.

Replacing the lower silent blocks

Rubber-metal hinges of the front suspension have a service life of no more than 80-100 thousand km. Depending on operating conditions, the lifespan before replacing silent blocks on Niva 2121 and Urban is reduced significantly. Diagnosis should be made for the following symptoms:

Loss of straightness of movement, the car “moving” to the side at a constant speed or braking; Spontaneous changes in wheel alignment angles, uneven tire wear; The presence of booming sounds, rattling when working out irregularities; Body rocking VAZ 21214; The appearance of cracks, scuffs, and tears in rubber and metal structural elements.

Lack of timely attention to the problem leads to damage to adjacent suspension parts, deterioration of controllability and driving safety.

Unscrew the wheel bolts, remove the wheel, having first installed a reliable support.

This is what a spare part looks like, not suitable for further use.

Loosen the bolted connection of the upper ball joint (3 pcs), and then move the part up. Attention, an insufficiently unloaded element can cause injury.

Remove the upper arm assembly using 2 19mm wrenches. If soured, use WD-40.

Place the element in a vice, unscrew the 22 mm nuts from the ends, and remove the thrust washer.

Armed with a puller, press out the silent block.

In the absence of a specialized device, it is permissible to use a chisel. In this case, use a hammer to pry up the edges and remove the hinges.

To install a new part, a puller and a spacer or a tool head are required. When you first set up tools, secure one of the silent blocks in the eyelet.

Secure the lever, insert the complete axle, and secure the installed rubber-metal hinge with a nut. Install the remaining silent block in its place, as well as a 160 mm piece of tube (mandrel) between them.

Place the puller cup against the free end.

Tighten the nuts until the elements are completely installed in their original position.

In the second case, placing the eye on the support, hammer the silent block with a pipe of a suitable size or a tool head.

The second stage using improvised means.

After installing the part on the car, lower the car so as to fully load the structure. Tighten the nuts completely.

In addition to hanging the car, removing the wheel, disconnecting it from the lower ball joint, remove the shock absorber from the lower mounting to the spring cup.

Disconnect the stabilizer clip from the link.

Lower the lever and pull out the spring.

After securing the lever axis with a 19 mm wrench, unscrew the 24 mm nut and remove the washer.

Carefully knock out the axle using a metal rod.

Remove the thrust washers.

Remove the lower arm; do not remove the spring cup.

Using a puller or a heavy hammer, press out the silent block.

Replacing the silent blocks of the front and rear levers with new ones is carried out in a similar manner to the disassembly process. For pressing, use a puller or tool head.

Perform final tightening and adjustment with the machine on its wheels. At the end of the process, do not forget to visit the stand to adjust the wheel alignment parameters.

Instructions for installing new silent blocks

Replacement of parts on a Chevrolet Niva is carried out for the right and left levers according to the same instructions.

1. Raise the car using a jack. Remove the wheel.
2. Place a support under the lower arm.
3. Using a jack, raise the lower arm or, conversely, lower the car slightly to increase the load on the suspension. It is best to use a second jack to fully compress the spring. This way you will achieve this effect faster.
4. Install the tie down spring and then lower the second jack to relieve stress on the anti-roll bar.
5. Release the lever from the stabilizer clamp.
6. Remove the shock absorber mounting bolt from the eye, having first unscrewed it.
7. Remove the three nuts that secure the ball joint to the arm.
8. Remove the second jack and remove the spring. Unscrew the lower arm axle nut and use a spacer to knock out the axle.
9. Remove the lever. Pay attention to the location of the front suspension axle shims. Try to remember their number so that there are no problems when reassembling.
10. Remove the nuts from the upper arm axis. Remove them along with the washers.
11. Using a puller, press the old parts out of the lever lugs. If this cannot be done with a tool, then you need to use a blowtorch or gas torch. Clean the seat.
12. Install new silent blocks and press them with the same tool. Before this, it is advisable to coat the lever and bushing with graphite lubricant, Litol or Movil.

Now you need to install the lever in place, making sure to place the shims correctly. Before you install this part, you can change the silent blocks on the upper arm. This operation is carried out according to simpler instructions:

1. Tie the front hub together with the caliper to the body so as not to break the brake hose during the work.
2. Remove the upper arm by unscrewing the bolts securing the axle and arm to the ball joint.

The rest of the work follows the same principles as when installing parts on the lower arm. First, the worn bushing is removed with a puller, and then a new one is installed in its place. Don't forget to clean the seat of the upper assembly and treat it with lubricant. After installing this part of the suspension, carry out final assembly.

The final tightening of the silent blocks should only be carried out with the machine standing on the ground. The Niva manufacturer recommends tightening the lower axle nut with a force of 100-170 N. After replacing the components on both sides, it is recommended to have a wheel alignment performed at a service station. This will help increase the life of the suspension and tires.

Which silent block is better for Niva?

The larger lower joints will not fit the front suspension arms and axles of vehicles built before 2008. Therefore, you can only choose the type of insert - classic (rubber) or new (polyurethane).

The use of polyurethane hinges has the following positive aspects:

• polyurethane wears off more slowly;
• the material does not dry out when heated;
• the polymer does not lose its properties under the influence of motor oil and other aggressive chemicals.

There are two dozen different silent blocks on sale, ranging from factory VAZ ones to polyurethane ones of various hardnesses. It is not advisable to install polyurethane silent blocks that are too hard - all the vibration will be on the body, and in cold weather a squeak is guaranteed.

Which silent blocks to choose for replacement

For Chevrolet Niva, silent blocks with rubber or polyurethane inserts are produced. Car enthusiasts often choose more modern material, but do not take into account its disadvantages:

• the material quickly collapses under torsional loads;
• high cost of a set of parts;
• When used at temperatures below -20 °C, they often tear and lose elasticity.

Polyurethane inserts work best on new parts; you should not buy them for cars manufactured before 2008. It is worth deciding on silent blocks made of polyurethane for the following reasons:

• slow wear of the part;
• resistance to heat;
• preservation of properties under the influence of chemicals and motor oil.

If you want to change the upper silent blocks, then the best choice would be the Mitsubishi MB633820 part, which are resistant to low temperatures and create comfort when moving. It is best to replace the lower units with classic ones made of rubber, designed specifically for the Chevrolet Niva.

Silent blocks on the field, problem

There are often situations when the silent block, despite efforts, does not give in. In addition to the universal lubricant WD-40 and kerosene, a hacksaw or a torch (blowtorch) will help you change the element. In the first case, try to cut the rubber element without touching the lever, then remove the fragments with a screwdriver or other suitable tools. In the second, heat the polymer until it burns out, then knock out the clip with a sledgehammer and a screwdriver.

Two questions arise. The first is associated, as usual, with quality. The second and third with the design feature and material.

• There are quite a lot of manufacturers of old-style silent blocks, but literally two of them produce decent quality. These are Balakovo residents, under the Tadem brand and Dimitrovgrad (in AvtoVAZ branded boxes). As I have already said in many articles, our rubber components (in Russia) are of very poor quality. This applies to cuffs, hoses, hinges, boots, seals. And on top of everything else, our endless geography. In the South it is 40, in the North it is -40. The most complaints about tires and SBL are in the northern regions of our country. The average period without rubber destruction (that is, before cracks appear) is 1-2 years. Of course, our people don’t give up, and roll out the suspension to the point where they can no longer hold the car on the width of the road, but that’s another question.
• The silent blocks on the field were not “drawn from scratch” as expected, but were adapted. That is, the SBL from the “penny” is slightly strengthened and modified. This didn't lead to anything good. The fact is that the rubber hinge moves layer by layer, and the layers do not immediately move by the entire given angle, but relative to each other. I'll try to explain with a everyday example. Everyone imagines a Napoleon cake, made from a pile of cake layers with filling placed between them. Let's turn on our imagination again, and dedicate what we saw to Picasso and Salvador Dali))) Napoleon cake lying not on the table, but wrapped around a large diameter pipe. The thicker our cake, the less movement each layer (crust) will have relative to each other. And if this is a “diet cake” and there are only two or three layers, our structure will fall apart very quickly. This is what happens with our “low-layer” silent blocks.
• Polyurethane is very good, like a modern material. But he has a peculiarity. It works very well for compression, but not very well for high torsion angles, with a small amount of “meat”. That is why SBL made of polyurethane, in this design, DO NOT GO FOR LONG TIME AT ALL. I won’t list the manufacturers whose products were installed, just take my word for it. The specificity of the loads is such that most often the polyurethane falls off from one of the bushings. And the SBL begins to work not as a hinge, but simply as a bushing. In addition, polyurethane is afraid of heat and in order for it to survive at least somehow, for the right side you have to install all sorts of different thermal screens that protect the exhaust pipe from heat. Rubber SBLs do not need this.

Video “Pressing in silent blocks”

The recording shows one of the ways to replace silent blocks when there is no press at hand.

So, after diagnosing the suspension at OD, I had to replace the rear silent block of the front suspension arm.

In my case, the silent block is pressed into an aluminum part, and to replace it we will need to dismantle this part, press out the old silent block from it, and press in a new one.

We start the work by hanging the car on a jack, just in case, so as not to die under the weight of the iron friend in the event of an emergency, we put something under the wheel.

Having previously lubricated the bolts with WD-40, unscrew them (3 pieces on each side).

Then, slightly prying the lever with a pry bar, pull it down and simply remove the part with the silent block from the lever with your hands.

For pressing/pressing we will use a garage vice.

To exit the silent block, it is necessary to provide free space behind the part; to do this, we place pieces of plywood on the back of the part; in front, to push out the silent block, we use a 32 head from the kit.

New and old silent block.

We press the new silent block into the aluminum part, and also put plywood on it so that the parts are not crushed by the vice.

Next, having lubricated the hole in the silent block with liquid soap, we put it on the lever and fasten it with new bolts with a tightening torque of 50 Nm on the smaller bolts and 70 Nm on the larger ones.

We do the same on the other side.

How to change the upper silent blocks of a lever on a Niva

The silent blocks of the front suspension of a VAZ 2121 or Chevrolet Niva are able to withstand any abuse over a period of 80-100 thousand kilometers. If the operation is mainly asphalt, even more. Today we will replace the silent blocks of the upper arm on the Niva (2121, 21214, 21213, 2123) and choose the best one in terms of quality.

The service life of the upper silent blocks of the front suspension on the Niva is quite high. However, signs of wear may appear already after a mileage of 70-80 thousand km, or even earlier if the car is operated on a dirt road. The first sign of a worn silent block is a creaking and knocking sound when driving over uneven surfaces.

In the most advanced cases, a worn silent block will affect the car's handling and ability to keep a straight line; increased uneven tire wear and yaw along the road in a straight line are possible. The easiest way to determine the condition of the silent block is visually - there should be no cracks or chips on the surface of the rubber, and there should be no delamination or play.

Replacing silent blocks of levers - Arkhangelsk club of owners and lovers of the Chevrolet Niva car

Niva - replacing the silent blocks of the upper arm

If the Niva or Shniva is used as a city crossover, the worst test of which is getting out of a snowdrift in the yard, you can safely install polyurethane. But the silent block mainly works to twist; the articulation of the SUV's suspension implies large angles of rotation of the levers.

Up. Chevrolet Niva › Logbook › Replacing the Lower Silent Blocks. My father-in-law taught me. On the first field of the day...

The quality of other manufacturers is poor. In particular, the lower axles of the levers, levers and lower silent blocks were structurally changed.

After some time, the suspension will sit down and then tighten it a little more. To prevent you from falling for a Chinese counterfeit, we publish here a link to the official website of Autoscanner. Pressing out the old silent blocks of the front levers of the Niva Chevrolet The Niva Chevrolet car is installed on an inspection pit for ease of work.

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Purpose and design of the product

The main purpose of a silent block or, in simple words, a rubber-metal hinge is to connect suspension parts and dampen oscillatory movements due to the rubber filling inside the product. A truly useful product that has the simplest design. It is a silent block, a metal double bushing with rubber or polyurethane filling inside. This filling plays the main role of damping vibrations and vibrations. The photo below shows silent blocks.

These parts are installed mainly in the front suspension of the Niva Chevrolet vehicle. With their help, the connection between the front suspension arms and the anti-roll bar is ensured. A similar connection is provided in the vehicle's rear suspension, gearbox and engine.

Location of the upper silent block

When is a product replacement necessary?

Each part in a Chevrolet Niva car has its own performance properties. There comes a time when the hinges fail and need to be replaced. But first, it is important to find out when to start such procedures or how to determine whether a silent block is faulty.

For cars that are operated on high-quality road surfaces, the service life of silent blocks is 100,000 km. But for the Chevrolet Niva SUV, these joints will have to be replaced at least 3-4 times before this time. But you shouldn’t rely on mileage; you can determine the need to replace products based on the following factors:

• vehicle control has deteriorated;
• When turning the steering wheel, the movement of the wheels is felt to be slow.
• On bumps, knocking noises appear from the front of the car.

Replacing Silent Blocks with Your Own Hands on a VAZ-2131 (Niva)

Replacing silent blocks

on a VAZ-2131 (
Niva
) and what is needed for this. .

Chevrolet Niva replacing silent blocks

It's time to change the rubber bands... it worked) How I changed the silent blocks

in garage conditions. The author of the video is not...

To confirm their malfunction, you can contact a service station, but here you will have to pay for diagnostics, so you will need to remove the hinges and determine their wear, as they say, by touch. To do this, it is not necessary to remove them from the car, but only need to carry out a visual inspection in the inspection hole. Having found out that the front hinges need to be replaced, we will begin to do it ourselves.

Replacing front arm joints

Before starting work, you must ensure that you have the following tools:

Unscrew the nuts and remove the washers

• key to 22;
• a special puller for removing and installing new hinges;
• standard set of tools.

Of course, before starting work, do not forget to purchase new silent blocks for the front control arms for the Chevrolet Niva.

Replacement of the upper silent blocks is carried out for both sides of the front suspension, even if only the hinges on one side are faulty.

We begin to dismantle the old hinges of the upper arms, after which they are replaced with new ones:

Pressing out old silent blocks of front levers Niva Chevrolet

1. The Niva Chevrolet car is installed on an inspection pit for ease of work.
2. We turn on the handbrake and install chocks or shoes under the rear wheels.
3. The front wheel is removed.
4. The nuts securing the ball joint are unscrewed and it is removed.
5. The upper suspension arm is removed.
6. Using a 22mm wrench, unscrew the lever axle nuts.
7. After unscrewing them, you need to remove them along with the washers.
8. Next, you need to use a special puller. The puller looks like the photo below. With its help, the old element is removed.