The gearbox crunches when changing gears: possible malfunctions

When buying a car, many drivers give preference to manual transmission, considering it more reliable. A manual gearbox has several advantages, the main one of which is its unpretentiousness. If we compare a manual transmission with an automatic transmission or a variator, then in the event of damage or failure of any elements of the manual transmission, repairs will cost the driver relatively inexpensively.

With proper operation and timely maintenance, a manual transmission will not require special attention. However, in practice, problems may arise over time in the operation of a manual transmission, as in other components of the car. One of the common problems with manual transmissions is the crunching noise that occurs when shifting the gear lever. In this case, the driver needs to determine the cause and fix the problem.

knocks out 2nd gear

I was driving and stuck the 2nd one. knocked out. when you keep it to the norm, repairing the gearbox or they told me about synchros, any thoughts on what to do? Tell me...

My opinion leans closer to the synchronizer, but by 40%, although I also had problems with the 2108, I actually changed the release valve and everything became normal.

I completely changed the clutch less than a month ago.

I have the same crap, I should say I need to fix the synchronizers and something else

So the synchronous gear needs to be changed and the 1st-2nd gear clutch needs to be changed.

gears, or are there none in the PP?

buddy, I have no idea myself, so I’m writing here for advice from experienced guys.

Thanks for the advice, but I’ll go with the simplest and cheapest)

The simplest and cheapest option can be taken from the arsenal of Tavrie breeders. It's called ROGULKA. This device is a stick 30-40 cm long with (as indicated in the name) a flyer at the end. Operating instructions (brief): 1) Engage the gear you have chosen (note - how to engage a gear is described in the instructions for your vehicle). 2) While holding the clutch pedal depressed, place the device (FLYER) so that its forked end rests on the gear shift lever, and the opposite end rests on the dashboard, or on the technological projections of the floor tunnel between the front seats of the vehicle. Note: the location of the stop of the opposite end of the device (FLYER) depends on the gear you choose. 3) Smoothly release the clutch pedal while lightly pressing the gas pedal. This product is patented and protected by the Copyright Law and before its use, copying and mass production it is necessary to contribute funds to the Fund for Support and Development of the Transmission Department of KB MeMz. Whoever can.

thanks for the advice, IMHO collective farm, with my driving habits it will crash after a few traffic lights, I would prefer normal repairs. WITH RESPECT, for the information provided.

100% second gear synchronizer with fork. Repairs at the service center will cost 5-6 rubles)) The second gear assembly is ready for replacement. At the same time, you can check the other gears))

If it's a synchronizer, why change the transmission assembly?

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For those with automatic

If your car has an automatic transmission. It will not hurt you to know the modes in which your machine can operate:

  • P – For parking and starting the engine. Switching to this mode is possible only after the machine has completely stopped.
  • R – To move backwards. Switching to this mode is also possible only after stopping the car and with the brake pedal pressed.

  • N – Neutral. When the engine is completely disconnected from the gearbox.
  • D – Moving forward without restrictions on gear shifting (the most commonly used operating mode of the automatic transmission).
  • D3(S) – Low gears for climbing and braking engines on descents.
  • D2 – Mode for difficult conditions (slippery or mountainous roads). Gears above second are not shifted, that is, only first and second gears are engaged.
  • D1(L) - Movement occurs only in 1st gear, used off-road on mud, snow or ice, where you need to drive without changing the throttle, and also to overcome steep climbs.
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    Second gear slips out on Priora

    There were problems with 2nd gear initially, from the moment of purchasing this Lada Priora. Well, how can I say the problem - at first it didn’t turn on at all, then it started turning on with a crunch (we’re talking about a quick start and switching from 1st to 2nd at 6000-6500 rpm, there were no problems during normal driving). I got there :) The second gear began to fly out, and it was impossible to hold it in place even if I held it tightly with my hand - the car jerked violently and did not want to go. I drove almost like in a video recording of one of the blogs of a well-known person - 1-3-5 DAL GONE

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