If you discover that the generator on your VAZ 2110 does not charge, you should immediately look for the cause of the malfunction, because the supply of all electrical equipment with current, as well as charging the battery, is at risk.
Generator
As you know, with a working generator, the battery does not require charging for many months and years, while maintaining at least 60% charge. That is, a battery with a capacity of 55 Ah, which is usually equipped with dozens, is replenished with current due to the operation of a working generator.
Basic problems
If the generator begins to act up, then the main causes of the malfunction should be sought either in the on-board network, or these are problems with the generator itself. If the generator gives a charge, but not enough, then perhaps it has been “loaded” too much by installing many other gadgets in addition to the standard electrical equipment, and it is already working at the limit of its capabilities.
Our motorists really love tuning the VAZ 2110, adding, for example, speaker power, enhancing the light, etc. In such cases, some people change the battery, for example, installing it with a capacity of 70 Ah, instead of the usual VAZ one with 55 Ah.
But although this may help at first, over time such a battery will run out even faster, since a standard generator will not be able to provide it with a full charge; it does not have enough power for this.
The reasons for battery discharge are described in detail in the following material:
What are failures?
Failure when pressing the gas pedal lies in the improper reaction of the engine to this. Thus, when trying to accelerate, the engine does not gain the required speed.
This leads to a drop in speed. It manifests itself with gradual and sudden acceleration. Dips appear when you press the gas pedal in different ways:
- Short-term failures. There is no response to pressing for a couple of seconds.
- Lingering failures. The engine loses speed for 4 to 10 seconds, and it is possible that the car will stall.
- Jerks. Dips up to 1 or 2 seconds. The car seems to be “twitching”.
- A series of jerks. The engine either increases speed or slows down, although the pedal is in the same position.
- The car jerks. Consists of a series of protracted failures.
troubleshooting
To accurately determine the source of the problem with the generator, you need to perform a basic check. If you do not have “additional” energy consumers, you can immediately look for generator faults; if there are any, turn them all off for a while. Moreover, do not turn it off, but simply disconnect it from the car.
Test plan:
- Measure the current output on a cold car, when it is not running and all its life support systems are turned off. It will be ideal if there is no return at all. But this happens extremely rarely. On almost every VAZ 2110, somewhere due to insufficient contact, local short circuit, etc. There is still a small return. But - just a small one, and not one in which the battery can run out during a night of parking;
- If everything is normal, there are no current leaks, or they are negligible, the battery is not discharged, reconnect all those devices that you (no matter, independently or with the help of hired specialists) installed on your car on your own initiative. Repeat the same check. If it turns out that current is actively leaking, it means that the reason is not in the battery and is not related to the generator; it is the device not provided for by the designers of the VAZ 2110 that is to blame;
- But if even then no kickback is detected, we proceed to a thorough examination of the generator. And here there are many possible malfunctions: • there is not enough contact between the brushes and the rotor rings; • there is a break in the excitation winding; • an interturn short circuit is possible directly in the field winding coil. At the same time, the generator heats up and hums; • the field winding may short-circuit to the rotor housing; • breaks can also occur in the stator phase winding; • the stator can short-circuit to the housing; • possible short circuit of the “plus” to the housing; • diodes in the rectifier unit can be pierced; • mechanical failures also occupy a significant place on this list.
It is possible to repair or replace the generator yourself if you have the proper desire and knowledge of the nuances of the procedure. Details:
Now let's look at all of the above generator malfunctions in more detail.
Connection diagram for the VAZ-2110 generator
Connecting a generator to a VAZ 2110 car is not difficult. All you need is some wrenches and patience. First you need to determine which side the mechanism is installed on. Everything is simple here. You just have to look at the fastenings and location of the rollers. After this, you should place the device on the seat.
The next step is to connect the positive and negative wires. The positive wire is usually red and thick. The negative one is slightly smaller, black or brown. The wires must be placed in their places on the generator and tightly clamped with nuts. Make sure that the wires are securely and firmly fixed. This determines how well the electricity will flow from it. After this, you can fix the device in its seat using bolts. Next, we put on the belt and start the car to check its performance.
If there is no charging, then you should proceed to detailed diagnostics of the device. First, let's look at the VAZ 2110 charging circuit diagram. Electrical connection diagram for the generator on a VAZ 2110, VAZ 2111, VAZ 2112 car:
Winding break
If the excitation winding is broken, then there is no charging of the battery. To determine this, it is often enough to place your hand on the generator. When it breaks, it heats up. For an accurate check, you need to disconnect the end of the excitation winding from the brush, connect the battery wires to it, and connect the battery wires to terminal Ш of the generator (via a voltmeter or a light bulb).
If there is a break, the voltmeter needle will not deflect and the light bulb will not light up. To find which of the coils prevents the generator from working, connect the wires from the battery to each individually. Finally, check the soldering and coil terminals. If the break is internal, the coil needs to be replaced; for external ones, soldering helps.
No charging
Indicator
On carburetor and injection VAZ 2110, the lamp on the dashboard, indicating a malfunction in the battery charging circuit, is connected via a relay to the output of the generator.
If the lamp is constantly on and there are no problems with the battery, then the warning lamp relay and the generator-relay-dashboard wiring are checked. If the light does not light up when you turn on the ignition, then most likely it is the one that has failed.
If there is a simultaneous indication of a malfunction and the battery is undercharged, the cause must be sought in the generator and relay regulator, although it is possible that the drive belt may simply slip due to a loose fastening.
Voltage regulator
On a running car, disconnecting the negative battery from the battery when the generator is faulty will cause the engine to stop. Such a check cannot be carried out on an injector, only on “old” eight-valve engines. The relay regulator (“tablet”) ensures that the generator output voltage is maintained within the range of 13.2–14.7 volts.
The voltage at the battery terminals, with the engine running at different speeds, should not go beyond this range (a sag at the time of start-up is acceptable). Structurally, for engines with both a carburetor and an injector, the regulator is located in the generator; in case of defects, it is replaced entirely.
Diode bridge
Diode breakdown also leads to a lack of output current for charging; often such a defect occurs after a short circuit in the cigarette lighter socket, when connecting “left-handed” electronic car accessories, or after incorrectly connecting the polarity of the battery terminals.
What to do if the battery charging light is on?
First of all, get out of the car and, with the engine running, measure the voltage at the battery terminals (do not remove the clamps under any circumstances).
If charging is in progress, the voltage should be at 13.6-14.2 Volts. In the absence of charge, the voltage level will be much lower - about 12 Volts.
To fix the problem, prepare the following tools:
- twelve volt indicator light,
- two screwdrivers (flat and Phillips),
- multimeter,
- pliers,
- knife,
- Use sandpaper to clean contacts.
So let's get started:
The readings of the on-board voltmeter indicate the presence of a charge, the charge signal lamp on the dashboard does not light up, there are about 12 volts at the battery terminals, and the battery itself is almost discharged.
In such a situation, clean the wire connections on the power source itself. If these measures are useless, measure the voltage level at terminal “30” of the generator itself.
Place one multimeter probe on this terminal, and the other on ground. If the voltage here is much higher than at the battery, then strip the thirtieth terminal. If necessary, replace the wire from the generator to the battery.
The voltmeter on the dashboard and the lamp show the presence of a charge, but the battery is discharged.
The voltage on the battery is normal (about 14 Volts). Turning on a load (for example, headlights) causes the charge arrow to shift to the extreme left position.
The main reason is weak belt tension on the generator pulley (tighten the belt, and if it is damaged, replace it).
This problem can also be caused by a breakdown of one of the diodes, as well as a break in the stator phase winding. Turn off the ignition and check the diodes with a multimeter. In case of breakdown, replace them.
Check the generator brushes. To do this, take them out and measure the length. If it is less than five millimeters, then it is better to replace the brushes.
When you turn the key in the ignition, the charge warning lamp does not light up, the charge sensor does not work, and there is no charge on the battery. The reason is a blown fuse.
Its designation is F10, rating is 10 Amperes. If installing a new fuse does not produce results, then the reason must be sought in the ignition relay or the lock itself.
After turning on the ignition, there is no charge, all devices work, the warning light does not light up.
The check is simple - remove the wiring from terminal “sixty-one” of the generator and connect it directly to the “minus” (car body). If the light comes on, then the cause of the problem is the generator field winding.
The second option is bad contact in the connector. If after cleaning there is no result, then there is a risk of the lamp itself burning out.
When you turn the key in the ignition, the charge lamp lights up, and after starting it continues to light up. In this case, there is no charging or appears periodically. The reason is insufficient contact of the wire at the connector with the dashboard (it may oxidize).
Finally, check the relay regulator. To do this, apply voltage from the battery to its contacts. If there is 12 volts on the brushes, then the relay is working properly. If not, the device must be replaced.
If you have problems charging the battery (the warning light does not go out or does not light up at all), then check all versions.
But, as a rule, the problem is always on the surface, and the cause is poor contact, a burnt out light bulb or a faulty relay regulator. Good luck on the roads and of course no breakdowns.
Topic: What goes to the generator exciter wire?
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Pointer
Registration 03/25/2011 Address Kaliningrad Messages 92
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I measured the blue wire and nothing seemed to be going through it.
Lupo
Registration 06/15/2011 Address Tver Age 36 Messages 230
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That's right, the blue wire is needed to excite the generator. When the ignition is turned on, there should be supply voltage. It comes from the dashboard: 12 pin tidy, black 10-pin connector (1 pin) in the ECU box, then to the generator. Look for a cliff.
I confirm
Without this very wire, the gene is excited quite well
But first you need to accelerate.
Pointer
Registration 03/25/2011 Address Kaliningrad Messages 92
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Depends on the residual magnetization of the armature and stator.
Well, yes, I agree. I started this recently. And if it stays overnight, he probably won’t get aroused without forced arousal.
Pointer
Registration 03/25/2011 Address Kaliningrad Messages 92
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So the problem is in the tidy.
READ How to connect popcorn to computer
Source
Diagnostics
Due to the fact that the price of a new generator is “biting”, and maintainability is quite high, many motorists do it themselves with their own hands to eliminate generator malfunctions in the VAZ 2110, which I suggest you do with the help of these instructions:
Fault No. 1
In the case when the control light on the instrument panel indicates a discharge of the battery, and when checking with a tester in the electrical circuit of the car, the voltage does not rise above 13.2 volts, it is necessary to check:
Checking the voltage in the on-board network
It is also possible that the stator winding may short-circuit, break or short circuit to ground (in this case, noise from the generator appears in the VAZ 2110, the generator “howls”). These assumptions are checked using an ohmmeter; if a malfunction is detected, the stator or the entire generator must be replaced.
Malfunction No. 2
The warning lamp in the instrument panel also indicates that the battery is low, and the tester displays a voltage value in the vehicle circuit of at least 14.7 volts:
Malfunction No. 3
The generator noise is clearly audible in the VAZ 2110:
Also in this case, one of the valves may close, which threatens to replace the rectifier unit.
Malfunction No. 4
The warning lights in the instrument panel do not light up when turning the ignition key:
