Why do you need a front strut brace?

May 20, 2016 Lada.Online 79 728 4
Installing a stretcher or spacer for the front supports (cups) is a popular modification among tuning enthusiasts. This accessory is designed to strengthen the front part of the car body, which allows you to change the behavior of the car on the road. Let's look at this amplifier in more detail.

Replacing the front suspension extension on a VAZ 2110

Details We remove the lever from the car to replace the silent blocks of the lever and extension or the lever itself.
We remove the extension to replace its silent blocks or replace the suspension when completely disassembling the front suspension. We carry out the work on an inspection ditch or a lift. Remove the engine mudguard (see section Removing the engine mudguard for VAZ 2110 2111 2112). We remove the ball joint or disconnect it from the lever (see section Removing the ball joint for the front suspension of VAZ 2110 2111 2112). Holding the extension with a 24mm open-end wrench, use a spanner wrench of the same size to unscrew the extension nut. Holding the extension with a 24mm open-end wrench, use a spanner wrench of the same size to unscrew the extension nut.

Use a soft metal drift to knock out and remove the bolt.

Using two 19mm wrenches, unscrew the nut of the bolt securing the lever to the body.

We remove (or knock out) the bolt and remove the lever from the bracket.

Remove the washer and lever from the stretcher.

On the stretcher behind the large washer there are washers for adjusting the pitch angle of the turning axis (in our case there are three of them).

To remove the brace from the cross member of the front suspension, use two 24mm wrenches to unscrew the nut...

...remove the washer and take out the extension from the silent block. Washers for adjusting the caster angle of the steering axis can also be installed at the front end of the brace

To replace the silent block of the lever, press it out in a vice with suitable pieces of pipe. We wet the new silent block with soapy water and press it into the lever.

We knock down the silent block of the extension with a chisel.

Having removed one, we similarly dismantle the second.

We pre-press the new silent block in a vice...

...and finally press it, striking a punch with a diameter of 8 mm through three windows in the rubber layer. We carry out the assembly in the reverse order, and tighten the threaded connections of all rubber-metal hinges in the “vehicle on wheels” position.

In what cases is it necessary to change silent blocks on the top ten?

Typically, experienced drivers quickly determine the reasons for the failure of the elements in question. Firstly, while driving the vehicle, shocks will be felt in the suspension area. Secondly, in the absence of intervention, the silent block structures are destroyed, the angle of the wheels changes and the controllability of the vehicle worsens. If a motorist ignores these problems, then he will face expensive repairs in the future. Let's look at the signs of failure of silent blocks:

  1. the appearance of tire squeaks while the vehicle is moving. Minor wear produces minimal noise;
  2. You can hear a knocking noise right next to the wheels. This indicates that the fastening elements of the silent blocks are damaged;
  3. Upon visual inspection, cracks are visible on the surface of the elements. This is evidence that the parts have lost their operational parameters and require replacement.

Replacing front silent blocks on a VAZ 2110

Often, beginners prefer to contact a car service to replace the silent blocks of the front control arms. And it’s completely in vain, because car repair shops charge quite a large amount for the service. Here it is necessary to emphasize that service stations do not always perform work at the proper level.

To carry out repairs, the motorist will need a special puller.

This tool is quite expensive and is required in exceptional cases. Therefore, it is advisable to borrow it from a familiar service station employee. There are many recommendations, instructions and even videos on the Internet that allow you to make the puller in question with your own hands. If there is free time, the motorist can make it using 2 tubes, washers and a special foot.

If you need to replace the silent blocks of the front levers of a VAZ 2110, you need to know that the beam design has two elements.

One silent block is located in the upper arm, and the second is located in the lower arm. Therefore, we will focus on replacing each element.

Feedback after installing the strut stretcher

Analyzing the reviews of car enthusiasts, we can conclude that the majority (about 85%) consider the front strut brace to be a useful accessory and recommend its installation, even during normal, everyday driving.

One of the video reviews that most viewers agreed with:

How do you feel about this type of car tuning? Is it worth installing a front-end amplifier or is it all at the level of self-hypnosis? Participate in the survey and leave your feedback on this improvement.

Where can I buy

: In our online store (for Vesta, for XRAY, for Granta/Kalina, for Priora, for Largus, for Lada 4×4)

Let us remind you that a more controversial issue arises after installing the reinforcement for the rear part of the body (trunk). By the way, have you heard about the bumper booster?

Keywords: body amplifiers Lada Granta | body amplifiers for Lada Priora | body reinforcements for Lada Kalina | body amplifiers for Lada Largus | Lada Vesta body reinforcements | body amplifiers lada xray | body reinforcements 4x4 | Niva body reinforcements | universal article

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Possible faults

One of the main and most common “symptoms” is knocking. Considering the number of parts and components that make up the suspension, there can be quite a few reasons. Perhaps there is some malfunction in the strut, which is the main element that ensures ride comfort. It consists of:

  • springs;
  • polyurethane buffer, which limits the compression stroke;
  • top support;
  • a bearing responsible for the ability to rotate the racks with wheels;
  • shock absorber

Another reason for the knocking noise may be that the front suspension spring has failed or weakened. In any case, it requires replacement. It is also common for the cushion or brace located on the cross member to wear out. It happens that the bolts are simply loose. They must be checked to prevent more serious damage. The hinges may also wear out or the attachments to the body may become loose.

The knocking sound of the front suspension of the VAZ 2110 may be metallic in nature, which indicates the destruction of the rubber elements. Wheel imbalance may also be the cause. If any of the listed malfunctions occur, the VAZ 2110 suspension can be repaired without the help of a specialist.

If while driving the car constantly “pulls” to the side, it means:

  • springs have different compression ratios;
  • different tire pressures;
  • one of the rubber elements collapsed;
  • different wheel alignment angles;

Spacer installation

Very often, for those who like to drive a VAZ, you can see a spacer under the hood, usually yellow. Attitudes towards such modifications are quite varied. Some say that this is a very necessary thing, others say that such a spacer does more harm than good. So, in this article I want to list all the pros and cons of stretching the front struts. And also how to install a spacer on a VAZ 2110 with your own hands.

  • Advantages of spacers for VAZ 2110:
  • Disadvantages of spacers on the VAZ 2110:
  • Types of front strut struts:
  • How to install a spacer on a VAZ 2110:
  • The car behaves more stable at high speeds when cornering.
  • Road unevenness causes less deformation of the car body.
  • Reducing extraneous noise and crackling of the interior trim.
  • Steering wheel vibration becomes less.
  • The body becomes more rigid.
  • Beneficial effect on front suspension parts.

There is no evidence of these disadvantages, well, at least not known to me, so it’s up to you whether to believe them or not. There is an opinion that in an accident, namely in a side impact, not only the side of the impact will suffer, but also the other side (it will bend the bowl, the stand). You say, exactly, this will happen with the help of a spacer, but these spacers have a hole in the center, through which, during an impact, the spacer bends and it does not transfer the blow to the other side. Another legend says that during a frontal impact, the engine is carried into the cabin due to the strut. Honestly, it seems to me that this is not justified and the spacer certainly cannot affect this. Therefore, I repeat once again, the choice is yours to trust these legends or not.

The only negative that I heard about from owners of cars with installed spacers is that on some cars it slightly interferes with adding brake fluid.

There are 2 types of such stretch marks: adjustable and solid. I advise you to use adjustable ones only if none of the solid ones fit your car. Or, over time, the bowls have collapsed inward (this happens over time, they shrink by 4-10 mm) and the solid spacer just doesn’t work.

According to the type of fastenings, spacers are also divided into 2 types: two-point and three-point. The first ones are attached only to the studs of the glass, the second ones have another fastening - to the body.

  1. First of all, unscrew the nuts on the strut supports (don’t worry, the strut won’t run away).
  2. We put the spacer on the support bolts. It happens that the holes almost coincide (Ravshan and Dzhumshut made the spacer), then use a drill to drill out the holes. If you are using an adjustable spacer, use the adjusting nut to adjust the distance between the supports.
  3. Tighten the nuts on the strut supports.

Suspension design features

A feature of the suspension design is that many of its elements should not be rigidly connected, otherwise it will transfer all the vibration to the body.

How does the VAZ 2110 suspension work?

Therefore, some composite suspensions are connected by means of rubber bushings and rubber pads with metal bushings inside, i.e. silent blocks.

So, in the front independent suspension of the VAZ-2110 the following are connected to each other through silent blocks:

  1. Lower arm;
  2. Stretching;
  3. Anti-roll bar.

Each of these elements plays an important role in the suspension design.

The lower arm prevents lateral movement of the wheel, the extension prevents the wheel from moving longitudinally relative to the body, and the anti-roll bar prevents the body from swaying when performing maneuvers or when driving over uneven surfaces.

But the loads on these elements coming from the wheels are very large, so their displacement, although small, must be provided in order to partially absorb the loads and partially absorb them, and not transfer them to the body.

Purpose and principle of operation

Before you buy yourself a similar element and think about how to adjust the spacers, let's talk about the very essence of this design.

The car body includes a large number of elements that are connected to each other by welding, bolting and other fastening options. And when some forces appear on the body, the components interact. And the fewer movements are made, the higher the rigidity parameters are. This directly has a positive effect on controllability. Body rigidity is most noticeable when the car is moving at high speeds and cornering.

And so, a strut brace is a part that is designed to provide and create additional rigidity. The element looks like a tube with a round or rectangular cross-section. There are special platforms at both ends. They are welded and allow the levers to be fixed.

Installation is carried out across the engine compartment. And the mounting platforms are held on the rack glasses. The existing bolts help here.

After installing such a design, it is possible to eliminate body displacement and thereby improve the quality of handling. That is, the spacer takes on a certain part of the loads that affect the car body when driving. When the car turns into a corner at speed, the stretch prevents the cups from mixing, connecting them into a single whole.

Choosing which ones to buy

It is impossible to say unequivocally which front struts are best to choose for the VAZ 2110. Some choose factory ones because they are not rigid enough for them, others prefer analogues for their softer and more comfortable behavior.

Some people even want to install a sports version of the struts on their “top ten”, since they are the stiffest and the springs are the thickest.


Sports

Focus on what you want to get out of driving. But from the point of view of manufacturers, Samara CC20 devices have proven themselves to be excellent. If necessary, you can figure out how to pump up such racks.

The choice is between oil and gas (gas-oil, actually). The former are more affordable from a financial point of view, but they do not have such a wide temperature range, which is why the shock absorbers become stiffer in winter.

Gas analogues have a more complex design, a high price, but an excellent “tenacity” indicator.

Among the manufacturers, in addition to CC20, the following manufacturing companies can be distinguished:

  • KONI
  • Sachs
  • Kayaba
  • Monroe
  • Brillstein.

All of them have approximately the same devices, so there should be no problems with selecting suitable parts.

Installation

Recommendation. After replacing the longitudinal extension, it is necessary to check the pitch angle of the steering axis at a service center.

We install the longitudinal extension in the reverse order.

The hole in the adjusting washer is chamfered on one side. When installing adjusting washers, the chamfer should be directed towards the bend of the longitudinal extension.

Today we will talk about how to replace silent blocks on a VAZ 2110.

The suspension is one of the most loaded devices of a car, since it constantly absorbs all the oscillatory movements of the wheel that are transmitted to it from the road surface.

Which front strut brace is better to choose?

It is recommended to choose body reinforcements that meet the technical specifications and have passed the test cycle. Try to buy such accessories from trusted manufacturers (for example, TechnoMaster or AvtoProdukt).

Types of front strut struts:

  • without adjustment (check before purchasing that the spacer fits the mounting points);
  • with adjustment (easier installation, since it is possible to adjust the mounting points);
  • with a hood stop (when it is possible to additionally install a gas hood stop);
  • with an additional engine mount (an additional engine mount to reduce shocks/vibrations/jerking when starting to move/braking or when you sharply press/release the gas pedal, as when installing the rear gearbox mount on a Priora).


Installation of the spacer is shown in the video:

Replacing the extension

The braces on the car are designed to hold two opposing struts together. The main function of a device of this kind is to reduce the flexibility of these struts under conditions of sharp turning of the machine. Stretch bars increase the strength of the body, allow you to make corners as comfortably as possible and improve feedback between the car and the driver.

The main reason why car extensions break is that they were poorly (or poorly) made or installed. They must be both light and as strong as possible - which is why most high-quality products of this type are made of aluminum or carbon fiber (carbon fiber), but steel braces are also widely used today.

Front suspension. Design Features

The front suspension of the VAZ 2110 is independent, telescopic. It is based on hydraulic shock absorber struts and coil springs, as well as lower wishbones with braces and a stabilizer bar.

Telescopic stand


1 – compression valve body; 2 – compression valve discs; 3 – throttle disk of the compression valve; 4 – compression valve plate; 5 – compression valve spring; 6 – compression valve cage; 7 – recoil valve nut; 8 – recoil valve spring; 9 – recoil valve plate; 10 – recoil valve disc; 11 – throttle disk of the recoil valve; 12 – piston; 13 – bypass valve plate; 14 – bypass valve spring; 15 – plunger; 16 – plunger spring; 17 – rod guide bushing with a fluoroplastic layer; 18 – guide bushing cage; 19 – sealing ring of the rack housing; 20 – rod seal; 21 – oil seal cage; 22 – gasket of the rod protective ring; 23 – rod protective ring; 24 – nut of the strut body; 25 – compression buffer support; 26 – rod; 27 – spring cup; 28 – rotary lever; 29 – rod limit sleeve; 30 – rack body; 31 – cylinder; 32 – drain tube

Front suspension assembly

1 – telescopic stand; 2 – nut; 3 – eccentric bolt; 4 – nut; 5 – steering knuckle; 6 – front wheel drive shaft; 7 – protective cover of the hinge; 8 – external shaft joint; 9 – lower lever; 10 – ball joint; 11 – decorative disk (cap) of the wheel; 12 – hub; 13 – brake disc; 14 – protective casing; 15 – rotary lever; 16 – lower support cup; 17 – suspension spring; 18 – protective cover of the telescopic stand; 19 – compression stroke buffer; 20 – upper support cup; 21 – upper support bearing; 22 – upper support of the rack; A – control size

Sources

  • https://motorchina-online.ru/avto-lada-drugoe/rasporka-na-vaz-2112.html
  • https://CarsUp.ru/avto-lada-drugoe/rasporka-na-vaz-2112.html

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Spacer and extension for VAZ 2112

Spacers and braces are usually installed between the front pillars of the car, thereby giving rigidity and integrity to the car body. Let's look at the example of the VAZ 2112. In addition to the fact that the installation gave rigidity to the body, it also improved handling. The disadvantage of guy wires is that in the event of an accident, both posts are pulled away at once.

Installing a stretcher on a VAZ 2112 takes a minimum of time and effort. However, it is worth remembering that spacers must be purchased specifically for a given car model, in our case, for a VAZ 2112. Installing the device is very simple. We unscrew the nuts on the bolts of the strut stops in the engine compartment, install the brace and screw the nuts into place. If you are moving at low speed and are not maneuvering much, then the changes are unlikely to be felt. When driving at high speed and maneuvering, it becomes noticeable that the roll when turning is reduced, the steering becomes more obedient, and in general it seems that the car has become reliable. First of all, you need to park the car on a level area without slopes. The spacer should fit freely onto the studs of the upper strut supports. If there is a slight discrepancy of a few millimeters, then it is necessary to pull the car body in the right direction. If it is more, then you need an adjustable spacer. Additional engine support limits its maximum movement when braking, sharply moving the car away and when hitting bumps. Plus, this support is credited with the ability to prevent self-switching of gears in the gearbox. Installing the fourth support yourself will not be difficult. Moreover, with an eight-valve injection engine, then you will have to purchase a special bracket for moving the ignition module, which also has positive aspects; the ignition module rises slightly higher and, accordingly, away from road dust and moisture.

The rear suspension stabilizer is installed on the rear beam of any front-wheel drive VAZ cars, including the beam of the VAZ 2112, thereby increasing its angular stiffness, reducing the lateral roll of the car and improving wheel grip when cornering. In real life, if the rear wheel accidentally falls into a hole, it hangs out so much that when it collides with the edge of an obstacle, the rear shock absorber rod often breaks out. When a car passes a protruding obstacle, its shock absorber wears out, which also does not contribute to the durability of the latter. If the beam is reinforced with a stabilizer, this will not happen - the load will be redistributed between the wheels. It turns out that this additional part of the rear suspension is a kind of fuse for the shock absorbers. Many car enthusiasts can install a stabilizer on a car, but they will need to drive the car into a pit or overpass. The only difficulty is drilling eight holes in the rear beam. There is also a so-called anti-roll bar on sale, which differs from the standard one in the increased diameter of the steel rod.

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