Owners of a VAZ 2110 very often encounter a problem - the starter spins, but the car does not start. In today’s article I would like to tell you about all the reasons for this malfunction, what to pay attention to first and how to fix this breakdown yourself.
In general, there are many reasons why the engine may not start and it is impossible to consider them all in one article. However, there are “basic” conditions that are necessary for a successful launch. We will discuss them now.
Timing belt broke
VAZ 2110 does not start, the starter turns - perhaps the reason lies in a broken timing belt?
The undoubted advantages of a belt drive over a chain drive are its simple design, low weight and low noise. However, it is not without its drawbacks, the main one of which is the relatively short resource of the timing belt.
Of course, a faulty, torn or misaligned timing belt also causes the VAZ 2110 to fail to start. By the way, on stock, non-deformed models of the 21120 engine, a torn timing belt also causes valve deformation and requires additional repairs. In this case, driving even after replacing the belt without restoring the valves is impossible.
New timing belt VAZ 2110
Check for the presence of a spark in the spark plugs visually by turning on the ignition and pressing the outer metal part of the spark plug against the unpainted metal body of the car or against structural elements. Do not forget that all electrical parts of the product are under high voltage, so it is better to carry out work with insulating gloves. If there is no spark on only one spark plug, be sure to check the others and draw the appropriate conclusions.
The consequences of a broken timing belt depend entirely on the design of the power unit. To imagine what will happen at this moment, you need to turn to the mechanics of the internal combustion engine.
In a running engine, the pistons continuously move from one dead center to another. During the intake stroke, the piston moves down and the intake valve opens; during the exhaust stroke, the exhaust valve opens and the piston moves up. At the moment when the piston is at top dead center, all valves must be closed. If the timing belt breaks, the camshaft stops rotating and the valves stop in one position. At the same time, the crankshaft continues to rotate by inertia, and the pistons rush towards the open valves.
Timing belt VAZ 2110 OPEN
In some engines, for example, the 8-valve VAZ-2111, the pistons have special recesses to avoid contact with the valves in the event of a break. In this case, there will be no consequences, except that the car will not be able to get to the garage or workshop under its own power.
Reasons for difficulty starting a car in cold weather
Novice drivers are interested in the question of why the car does not start in cold weather. There are plenty of reasons: problems with the battery and starter, an increase in lubricant thickness, disruption of the fuel supply in the system, as well as the use of summer grades of diesel fuel in diesel cars.
Battery problems
The battery is the main culprit for problems with starting a car in cold weather, especially if the battery has been actively used for more than 3 years - at this time its power begins to decrease. In addition, particles of rust and dirt accumulate on the battery terminals over time, and oxidation of the terminals and contacts can be caused by temperature fluctuations: when the motor is turned off, the wires have the same temperature as the environment, and at the moment of starting they begin to heat up. This process leads to a gradual breakdown of the integrity of the connections.
Chemical processes inside the battery slow down at sub-zero temperatures: already at -15...-20°C it operates at only 40% of its potential even when fully charged - this is another reason for problems with starting the engine.
Starter malfunction
It is not uncommon for the starter to break down in winter. This unit is subject to critical loads in cold weather due to:
- thickening of lubricants;
- freezing of moving parts of parts due to condensate freezing on them;
- changes in resistance at the contacts.
All this leads to an increase in the current flowing through the armature, which causes incorrect operation of the unit, and sometimes even destruction of the armature, starter brushes, and commutator lamellas.
Thickened motor oil
At subzero temperatures, lubricants tend to become thicker, which increases resistance in rotating and moving mechanisms. This, in turn, increases the load at the starting moment on the battery, which is also cooled, as a result of which the battery discharges faster. Using special winter brands of oil can partially solve the problem.
The coolant also works only in the temperature range specified by the manufacturer; when this indicator decreases, it freezes. At the same time, the starter will continue to rotate, which often causes breakdown of the entire unit and makes it impossible to operate the car. To avoid this, use coolant designed for the appropriate climate conditions.
Bad gasoline or its supply is interrupted
The use of low-quality fuel also becomes a problem. The drops of moisture contained in it, freezing, form ice plugs that prevent the normal flow of the mixture into the combustion chamber. You can prevent trouble by using high-quality fuel or specialized additives.
In cold weather, the operating parameters of fuel pumps deteriorate, which leads to problems in the functioning of injectors and nozzles. Misfire may occur in some or even all cylinders.
The ignition system is misregulated
The main “winter” enemy of the fuel system, which causes its imbalance, is moisture entering the unit in the form of condensate. It freezes at sub-zero ambient temperatures, preventing the flow of the fuel-air mixture.
Spark plugs flooded
In winter, it is necessary to use proven spark plugs; it would be a good idea to change them in the off-season, before the first cold weather begins, and also have a spare set of spark plugs with you. In addition to the general problems that can arise at any time of the year, there is also a typical “winter” problem - the candles are flooded with fuel.
In the cold, the formation of a combustible mixture requires a change in conditions. In frosty air, the concentration of oxygen is increased, and accordingly, more gasoline will be needed, and the command to increase the fuel supply is sent by the electronic control unit to the injector nozzles. A cold starter produces a weak spark, and meanwhile the injectors continue to supply fuel to the system, which fills the spark plugs.
The use of summer diesel fuel in diesel cars
A diesel car may not start in winter due to the use of the wrong fuel. Summer diesel fuel - a special type of diesel fuel - can only be used at an ambient temperature of at least -5°C, because already at -6°C it becomes cloudy and thick, and at -7... -8°C it begins to solidify.
The crystals formed in this process:
- the fuel filter is clogged;
- accumulate in the heat pipe;
- damage the engine and other components of the mechanism.
If it is not possible to use winter fuel, you should definitely use special additives for diesel fuel.
The VAZ 2110 engine does not catch the injector 8 valves reasons
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Yes, I know that there are already many such topics, but I couldn’t find answers because I can’t imagine what the reason could be.
This is the situation. Started having trouble starting. At first it just took longer to turn the starter, then it stopped starting altogether the first time. You try to start one, try again ten times, and suddenly it starts at one. Both hot and cold. At the same time, no checks were lit. Well, on Sunday morning it wouldn’t start at all.
The starter turns, there is a spark, the module is working, gasoline is supplied to all cylinders, the DPKV has been replaced. Gasoline seems to be normal, I always fill up there, no problems. They suggested starting it with the MAF switched off in emergency mode, but it still doesn’t start. What else could it be, or has anyone encountered something similar? Please give me some advice?
What engine? My IMHO: - either the timing belt has jumped (the key of the generator gear pulley may have been cut off); — either the positive (outermost) contact in the injector chip does not make contact.
The crankshaft gear itself seems to rotate normally (I don’t understand this part, so maybe I don’t know where and how to look)
I'll check the contact of the chip, but fuel is supplied to the cylinders rhythmically and synchronously.
The crankshaft gear itself seems to rotate normally (I don’t understand this part, so maybe I don’t know where and how to look)
. fuel is supplied to the cylinders rhythmically and synchronously.
Filters
It happens that the car stops starting due to a dirty filter. There are only two of them. These are fuel and air. You need to check both, but first the last one (since it is easier to remove). If its condition leaves much to be desired, it needs to be replaced.
In this case, air is not able to enter the cylinders, which is why there is a lot of gasoline in the chamber and floods the spark plugs on the VAZ 2110 8 valves. The injector may also fail due to poor fuel supply. In this case, you need to replace the gasoline filter. When purchasing, please note that there are carburetor and injection filters. They are easy to confuse, and they are designed for different pressures.
Checking spark plugs and sparks
If the engine does not start within five seconds, there is no use turning the starter. You can try to start it again, but it’s unlikely to help. Moreover, operating the starter for too long can lead to overheating and even fire.
If you try to start a carburetor engine for a long time, gasoline will flood the spark plugs and make further starting attempts impossible in principle. The injectors have a purge mode, so the spark plugs can be dried without removing them from the car - you just need to press the gas pedal to the floor and turn the starter.
Clean working spark plugs VAZ 2110
But these are half measures. First of all, you should unscrew at least one spark plug, put the wire back on it and position the spark plug on the engine so that there is a distance of about three millimeters between the metal part of the spark plug and the metal of the engine. Turn on the starter and make sure that there is a uniform spark between the spark plug contacts.
Checking the spark in the spark plugs of the VAZ 2110
Do this check for each candle. If there is no spark on any spark plug, then there are global problems in the ignition system.
Some useful recommendations
If one fine morning the owner of a car gets behind the wheel, but cannot start the car, do not despair, let alone panic.
You must try to find the cause and make an accurate diagnosis of your sick iron horse. The cause may be a dead battery. It happens that a motorist forgot to turn off the headlights and the car stood there all night with the headlights on. Of course, it is possible to leave, but it is clearly impossible to do without outside help. It is necessary to find out whether the starter rotates. If yes, what is their intensity? It may be that the starter does not turn or click at all. So it just broke down. Then you’ll have to take another car; you’ll hardly have to go anywhere with this one. Of course, the problem may lie in the battery. In the simplest case, the terminal may simply fall off. Then you should tighten their fastening. You can try to leave by starting the car "with a push". But if the car has an automatic transmission, you don’t even have to try to do this. Nothing will come of this. The same applies to electronic fuel injection.
In such a situation, you can try to “light” a neighbor, but on some cars this can damage the on-board computer.
If the starter operates in vigorous mode, but the engine does not start, the battery should not be blamed for this. Most likely the problem lies in the fuel supply or ignition system.
VAZ starts and immediately stalls
The car may stall immediately after starting, even due to trivial little things such as consumables. Therefore, first of all, I advise you to check the fuel and air filters. If they are clogged, it is difficult for the engine to receive oxygen and fuel, which causes it to simply stall.
If before your VAZ stopped starting, the following were discovered:
- Power Loss
- The car doesn't start well
- Increased fuel consumption
It is most likely that the catalyst that is equipped with VAZ injection models is faulty. The catalyst can be removed by flashing the engine control unit. As an alternative: install lambda decoys. A clogged catalyst may also be the reason why the VAZ does not start.
Nozzle
The main difference between the injection and carburetor power systems is the absence of nozzles in the latter. The mixture is prepared under high pressure. If the injector does not produce it, the car will start poorly and run unstably. Due to low-quality fuel, it becomes clogged. Moreover, a dust particle larger than 10 microns in size is sufficient for this. How to check? If the engine still starts, listen to the engine. If it triples and the injector on this cylinder is cold, it means it has become unusable. You can clean it of dirt using ultrasound. This procedure is performed on a specialized stand.
Why else does the engine not want to start?
VAZ-2110 owners often say that the car does not start, but the starter rotates, and the spark plugs are wet from fuel. Replacing the latter does not fix the problem. Most likely, clogged injectors are to blame. The easiest option here is to wash them with kerosene.
Another common case is that the VAZ fuel pump does not provide sufficient pressure in the system. As a result, fuel arrives in a smaller volume, and, accordingly, the engine does not start. A faulty pump will have to be replaced.
Sometimes the engine does not respond to turning the key because the fuel mixture is supplied incorrectly. The culprit here may be the air flow sensor. The sensor cannot be repaired, which means that all that remains is to replace it.
The car starts after several unsuccessful attempts. This happens if the throttle valve or idle speed sensor is clogged. Wash the named elements in cleaning liquid. The one designed for carburetors will do.
The VAZ power plant does not start in the cold, but at the same time:
- the starter turns;
- tank full;
- the battery is running low;
- The oil level indicator came on.
Remove the spark plugs and turn the starter several times so that excess gasoline leaves the combustion chambers.
You replaced the ignition switch, and later it turned out that the engine will not start. Most likely, the new unit is defective or there is a break (short circuit) in the wires leading to it.
The power plant started, but then the indicator with an exclamation point flashed and it stalled. Here the problem arose due to the fact that the starter of your VAZ continues to receive power, that is, decoupling from the engine has not occurred. This trouble leads to the breakdown of the mentioned device. It will have to be replaced.
The above are the most common problems that occur in injection “tens”.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8XF3rAHu-ZA
How to check it?
For this we need a multimeter. We measure the resistance of the crankshaft sensor coil. It should be between 500 and 700 ohms. On the multimeter itself, we set the limit to 200 millivolts and attach the probes to the sensor outputs.
We pass a steel object several times in front of the core. If the element is working, it should recognize it, and the multimeter will show the readings described above. If there are none, the sensor has become unusable. It cannot be repaired - only replaced.
VAZ 2110 injector takes a long time to start - 8 and 16 valves, what to do if the problem is cold
Hi all! There is a VAZ 2111. Engine 21114 - 8 cells, 1.6. Bosch 797. It always takes a long time to start - both cold and hot. Problem since summer. The remote control was washed. Everything is clean and not clogged. The valves have been adjusted. Cleaned the injectors. I checked the suction pipes and replaced many. The air filter is new. The fuel tank strainer has been replaced. The rail pressure is around 3.8. The check engine light is constantly on. The BC displays a mass loss error (1602). But it’s unlikely that the check is related to this mass error, because she's been around for a long time. There are no problems when driving (I don’t drive). True, there is one nuance - sometimes when accelerating/driving around 2000 rpm there is a certain gag - the car seems to twitch/gouge for a second and then drives normally. The voltage at the mass air flow sensor is 1.04. But there are no floating edges or a noticeable drop in traction. The muffler-resonator connection cuts. But this happened before. I'm tired of twisting new clamps. Scored. But this is true, just in case it can help with the diagnosis) Here are the readings from the BC in three modes - immediately after start (23g), warmed up (88g) - XX and 3000 rpm.
Temperature 23 g Speed 1240 Consumption l/h 2.21 VAF 1.72 v Reg. XX steps 94 DC 0.45 in UOZ 3.7 Air consumption kg/h 23.9
Temperature 88 g Speed 800-840 Consumption l/h 1 VAF 1.5 v Reg. XX steps 36 DC 0.66 in UOZ 9.7 Air consumption kg/h 11.1
Temperature 88 g Speed 3000 Consumption l/h 3.55 VAF 1.92 v Reg. XX steps 80 DC 0.11 V Throttle 4% UOZ 30.7 Air consumption kg/h 34.1
Wiring
On almost all car models, the wiring to the fuel pump consists of three wires: “positive”, “negative” and a wire for determining the amount of fuel in the tank.
If the fuel pump stops pumping, the wiring may be damaged. You can check the power using a 12 W lamp, powering it from the external connector of the fuel pump. When the ignition is turned on, the light should light up. If not, then the external circuit is broken somewhere. To check the external wiring, you need to connect in turn the “positive” and “negative” contacts removed from the fuel pump power connector. It is necessary to close the “negative” contact to ground, after which the light will light up when the ignition is turned on. So, it can be determined that the contact is inoperative. If the lamp does not light up, then the “positive” contact is damaged. Placing a contact on the relay in which the light does not light up, there may be a problem with the wiring in the section from the relay to the fuel pump.
What could happen to electrical equipment?
If there is something to burn in the working cylinders, then you need to look for what will make the mixture burn
This means that you need to pay attention to the car's ignition system. This could be an ignition distributor, a high-voltage coil and wires, spark plugs. It doesn’t happen that all devices fail at the same time, so we should talk about them separately
It doesn’t happen that all devices fail at the same time, so we should talk about them separately.
We will assume that the distributor is installed correctly; in this case, a failure may occur through a breakdown of the cover or slider, or a failure of the Hall sensor. However, most often the cause is poor contact in the power connector of the ignition distributor. An ignition module or coils that do not produce high voltage to produce a spark at the spark plugs can create problems.
Injectors work in conjunction with ignition modules, of which there are usually two per engine. One ensures the operation of cylinders 1 and 4, and the second - cylinders 2 and 3. In these systems, the electronic control unit, which generates control pulses for all systems, including the ignition, may be problematic. This block can only be checked by replacing it. The same can be done with ignition modules.
Sometimes the fault may come from the high voltage coil. it does not generate voltage that can create a spark to ignite the air-fuel mixture. You can check its operation if you unscrew the spark plug from the cylinder and, together with the high-voltage wire, ensure its contact with the engine ground. At this time, you need to crank the starter and watch the spark plug. The absence of a spark confirms that the ignition coil is faulty.
It is impossible not to dwell on such elements of ignition systems as spark plugs. They are the ones who ignite the combustible mixture in the working cylinders of the engine. During their operation, the metal parts of their electrodes burn out, after which the gap increases, starting the motor becomes more difficult, or even becomes impossible. Check the condition of the spark plugs regularly, especially their gap. then problems can be avoided.
You can continue to review situations when the starter turns, but the VAZ 2110, 2112, 2114 does not start. It is simply impossible to take into account absolutely all cases, but to avoid such situations, carry out routine maintenance of the machine in a timely manner, use only high-quality operating fluids.
VAZ 2110 won't start, the injector turns the starter
Probably every motorist has encountered a situation in which your car does not start, and there is little pleasure in it, especially if it happens on the road.
To begin with, it is recommended to conduct a general diagnostic of the engine and try to identify the malfunction. In this situation, in order to determine the malfunction of the VAZ 2110 power plant, it is recommended to check all operating systems of the engine, proceeding from general to specific.
Sensors
These monitoring devices serve to inform the on-board computer about the local situation. If they break down, the engine is basically unable to start.
It is relatively easy to check them yourself; in this case, the failure of the sensors will be indicated by the absence of a spark.
Checking the starter
The starters installed on the VAZ 2112 are relatively reliable. But if, after all the checks carried out above, it was not possible to identify the reason for the inability to start, then you should remove it for diagnostics.
It will be extremely difficult to disassemble and check all its components on your own. First of all, you need to check: is voltage coming to the starter power contacts? Often it is a cable break, a crease, or contact oxidation that leads to the impossibility of starting the motor.
It should be noted that if there are problems with starting, it is difficult to determine a hot fault. If you cannot cope with the repair yourself, then you should contact a qualified service center.
Scheme
The fuel pump circuit is not particularly complicated. In fact, the unit is an ordinary electric motor, powered by 12 volts from the car’s on-board network. The problem is that getting to it is not easy - you will have to disassemble half of the interior.
The fuel pump is mounted directly on the tank body. The inlet hole is protected by a mesh - this is a filter that provides rough cleaning of the fuel. This element prevents dirt and solid foreign matter from penetrating into the assembly, so its characteristics remain stable.
The electrical circuit includes:
- control module;
- ignition unit;
- wiring;
- fuse;
- relay.
All 2110 models that left the assembly line before 2000 have mechanical fuel pumps. Its components are:
- frame;
- top cover;
- return spring;
- two valves;
- a pusher equipped with a diaphragm.
Power is supplied to the fuel pump in the 2110 model after turning the key in the ignition switch. Voltage is supplied first to the relay. It closes and the unit begins to pump fuel. When the hoses are full, the on-board computer turns off the current. The engine is cranked by the starter and starts.
An important point is that detailed pinout of the fuel pump is not required when troubleshooting a fault, since most often easily replaceable standard elements fail.
Doesn't start well and boils
In this case, the reason lies in the coolant. Check its level. If necessary, dilute with distilled water. However, there is no need to mix different brands of antifreeze. It may foam, which will further accelerate overheating.
The thermostat may also break. The VAZ 2110 8-valve injector is equipped with a two-piston element. It's very easy to check. To do this, you need a burner and a pan of water. Place the thermostat in the container and wait for the water to boil. If bubbles appear and the piston does not move, it means the element is faulty. The temperature at which it should operate is indicated on the metal body of the thermostat. The element cannot be repaired - it must only be replaced. As a result, the system is unable to regulate the operating temperature of the antifreeze. The coolant moves only in a small circle. But the car may start poorly (every once in a while) due to an incorrectly adjusted ignition. Most "ten" cars have a distributor ignition. Here you need to set the correct lead angle.
Battery
The first thing you should pay attention to is the battery. Open the hood and see if the terminals are tight. The banal reason that the VAZ 2110 8 valve (injector) does not start is a poor fit of the positive or negative terminal. But do not exclude the possibility of the battery itself being discharged, especially in winter or after a long period of inactivity. You need to measure the battery voltage. If it is below 12, it should be charged. The battery produces normal starting current at 14-14.5 Volts. Useful advice from experienced motorists - in winter, remove the battery at night and store it at home. This way you have a better chance of successfully starting the engine. You will spend much less time than if you fiddle with the charger (especially if the car is in the yard and not in the garage). And when the car sits for more than a week, remove one of the terminals from it. Some elements can work constantly and reduce the voltage a little.
Repair work
On a carburetor VAZ 2110 it is easier to replace the fuel pump if necessary. It is located under the hood and is not difficult to get to. It is enough to disconnect the pipelines, then unscrew the pump itself.
The electric fuel pump installed on an injection machine is located directly in the gas tank, so it is more difficult to get to it; this is done from the passenger compartment by removing the rear seat.
All fuel pumps are dismountable. After removing the cover, the mesh is removed and its condition is assessed. Of course, you can wash it, but it’s even better to replace it right away. Before starting repairs, you should purchase a repair kit, which must be equipped with a mesh.
