The design of the gas distribution mechanism on the VAZ 2115 car is identical to the previous modifications 2114, 2112, 2110. The main purpose of the timing gear is to transmit torque from the crankshaft to the camshafts for the subsequent movement of the car.
During the systematic operation of a technical device, the drive often fails. At high speeds and rpm, the belt breaks into pieces, blocking the operation of the cylinder head and valve mechanism. There are frequent cases of holes in the block and valve bends.
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The process of replacing the drive yourself is not at all complicated, but it requires attentiveness on the part of the technician. Violation of technology is not acceptable. If you encounter any difficulties with repairs, contact a service station specialist for help.
On VAZ 2115 cars a toothed belt is pre-installed. Unlike wedge and poly-wedge, it has a long service life. The cost of the belt is 10% higher than analogues.
Early models of VAZs were equipped with chain drives, but they are not as efficient and have a higher noise level during operation.
Causes of timing belt failure
There are several reasons for this breakdown on the VAZ-2115:
- natural wear and tear;
- pollution;
- ingress of oil and foreign objects;
- pump failure;
- changing the position of the tension roller;
- camshaft or crankshaft jamming.
The role of the timing belt installed on the injector of a VAZ-2115 car is to ensure that the engine valves open at the right time. It synchronizes the camshaft pulley with the crankshaft. Therefore, it is important to change it in time when it wears out so that problems with the engine do not arise.
Where does the belt slip and why?
Note! The belt can slip either towards the engine or in the opposite direction from it.
This happens regardless of how exactly it was installed in the middle of the gear, since the reason for this is not only the belt itself, but also the elements and mechanisms accompanying its operation. In order to solve this problem, you need to use the methods described below.
Timing belt
In modern times, in the automotive spare parts market, facts of counterfeits and low-quality products are becoming more and more common.
The top is the original timing belt and the bottom is a fake.
Specifically touching on the issue with the timing belt, we can talk about its uneven structure, increased elasticity (the ability to stretch excessively - approx.), as well as the presence of significant differences between the two edges (distortion - approx.).
The degree of straightness of the newly installed belt can only be determined on the mounted mechanism.
And, if even minor deviations are observed after starting the engine, then the reason is in the belt.
water pump
The timing belt can slip due to play in the pump (pump - approx.). It is very easy to determine its presence; you just need to grab the working surface of the gear with your hand, and if there is even the slightest play, the unit must be changed. In this case, read the material: “choosing a reliable pump for the VAZ-2114”
Leaks on the cylinder block from the timing side indicate that the pump has failed
Articles
- 2108-1006120 – video. Attention: parts 2108-1006120 and 2112-1006120 are not interchangeable!
- 2108-1006129 – pin for the roller;
- 2108-1006040-10 - belt;
- 2108-1006149 – seal under the casing;
- 2108-1006146 – plastic casing.
Analogs of belts
- GATES 5521 or 5521XS (heavy duty), recommended
- FINWHALE BD-111
- BOSCH 1 987 949 559
- LEMFORDER 58-111-19 or 14458 01
- CONTITECH ST-527
- GOOD YEAR G1474 (semicircular tooth) or G1485 (trapezoid tooth)
- DAYCO 111x190/1
Show all articles
- HANSE HZ 011 008
- BRTI 21080-1006040-10
- TOYOTA 13568-19035
- RENAULT 7701462019
- OPEL 636359
- ROVER GTB1124
- AYWIPARTS AW2110560
- PROCODIS FRANCE 05CD27
- FAI 40305
- GK 791170
- MAGNETI MARELLI 340018181434
- MAPCO 43080
- HEPU 29-0165
- OPTIMAL R-1113
- SCT G124
- WILMINK WG1151273
- VEYANCE G1474
- OPTIBELT ZRK 1123 (3 pcs.)
- TRISCAN 8645 5521 (2 pcs.) or 8645 5124 (2 pcs.)
- FLENNOR 4410 (2 pcs.) or F904410 (belt + roller)
- LYNXauto 111CL19 (1 piece) or PK-1236 (belt + roller)
Analogues of the video
- GATES T42042 or T42042A (2 pcs.)
- MAPCO 23081
- FLENNOR FS99018
- LUK 531 0671 20
- OPTIMAL 0N1917
Show all articles
- BREDA LORETT TDI3009
- TORQUE 830900AE2
- ESPRA 2108-1006120/ES0108
- INA 531075010
- CORAM C747
- VPZ-23 830900AE1
Preparatory operations
Open the hood.))
It's immediately obvious that the owner loves his car.
VAZ engine 8 valves.
If you plan to replace the pump, then let the engine cool, remove the protection and then drain the antifreeze. It is enough to drain only from the cylinder block.
Plug on the cylinder block.
Jack up the car and remove the front right wheel and plastic mudguard.
Timing and frequency
According to the regulations for carrying out technical work, on the VAZ 2114 the procedure for replacing the timing belt and rollers should be carried out every 120 thousand kilometers. However, in reality this deadline usually comes earlier. Many car enthusiasts advise preparing for replacement after 90 thousand kilometers. Do not forget about regular inspection of the components of the gas distribution system. If you notice the slightest problem, the defective components should be replaced immediately. Failure to promptly replace faulty parasitic rollers will sooner or later lead to a broken timing belt. During a break, desynchronization of the valves and piston occurs, which leads to breakdowns and deformation of these components.
When to tension the timing belt
The timing belt of the VAZ-2112 and other VAZ models is tensioned in the following cases:
If the cause of the intervention is a broken or “slipping” belt, you must first ensure the integrity of the valves. A broken gas distribution mechanism (drive) leads to engine damage on 16-valve 1.5-liter power units. However, in cases of drive failure at high speeds, valves and CPGs are also destroyed on other engines.
They check the operation of the timing belt on the VAZ-2114 and other models equipped with 8-valve units by turning the camshaft manually. A working mechanism should turn with some effort. A faulty one, as a rule, cannot be affected.
During the procedure, it is necessary to check the compression in each of the cylinders. The easiest way to do this is to tightly cover the spark plug hole with paper. If there is pressure in the cylinder, the plug is knocked out of its seat at a certain stage of camshaft rotation. » alt=»»> A similar check on 16-valve engines is not recommended. The risk of damage to an initially good valve mechanism is too great. There are no grooves in the pistons of one and a half liter engines of this type. Therefore, valves that move down bend when they contact the piston surface.
Belt replacement
Required tools:
- socket wrench 10 or similar size ratchet head;
- open-end wrench 13;
- open-end wrench 17;
- slotted screwdriver (large);
- special tension wrench for the tensioner pulley;
- jack, wheel wrench;
- a little machine oil.
First you need to set the timing gear and engine flywheel in accordance with the existing marks.
1. Place the car on a level surface and engage any gear.
2.Use a jack to lift the front right wheel so that it can rotate.
3.Open the hood, use a 10mm wrench to unscrew the 3 bolts securing the timing belt protective cover.
4.Using a 13 key, loosen the generator belt tensioner and remove it.
5. On the camshaft gear we find a mark in the form of a rectangular protrusion on the edge. It should align with the protrusion on the belt cover mount.
6.If it doesn’t match, put the car in gear and turn the right wheel until the marks match.
7.After this, we find a rubber plug on top of the clutch housing. It is located to the right of the cylinder block. Pry it off with a screwdriver and take it out. Below it is the flywheel crown, which also has a mark that should coincide with the triangular protrusion on the left.
8.If there is no such coincidence, use a 17 wrench to loosen the fastening of the tension roller, and using a tension wrench, turn the roller counterclockwise, loosening the belt.
9. Having removed the upper part of the timing belt from the timing gear, use a 17 mm spanner to turn the crankshaft until the flywheel marks coincide.
10.Fix the flywheel in this position by inserting a screwdriver between its teeth. It’s great if you have an assistant who will additionally hold it.
11. Dismantle the front right wheel, remove the arch protection.
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12.Using a 17 wrench, unscrew the nut securing the generator pulley, making sure that the flywheel does not rotate.
13.Remove the generator pulley and take it out.
14.Now the timing belt can be removed from the crankshaft pulley.
15.Using a 17 wrench, completely unscrew the tension roller fastening and remove it; you can simply loosen it and the belt will come out.
16. Without disturbing the position of the marks, put a new belt on the crankshaft pulley, install the generator drive pulley in place, having first put the belt on it.
17. We put the belt on the timing gear.
18.Install a new tensioner roller, lubricating it on both sides with machine oil (if removed).
19. We tighten the belt by rotating the tension roller with a special wrench (if you don’t have one on hand, you can insert two pins or screws into the grooves and secure them with a screwdriver) counterclockwise. The tension at which one plane of the belt can be rotated 90 degrees horizontally using your fingers is considered normal. In this position, tighten the tension roller mounting bolt.
20. We carry out further installation in the reverse order; if your marks are lost, then you definitely need to set them again.
How to change it yourself?
You can replace the belt on an 8-valve VAZ 2114 with an injector engine yourself or by ordering the appropriate service at a service station. During the shift process, there are nuances that must be taken into account when performing the task. If you make mistakes and do not change the strap correctly, this can lead to rapid wear and breakage. Below are instructions for replacing the belt in a VAZ 2114 8 valve.
Tools
If you change the belt yourself, prepare the following:
- a set of open-end wrenches, you will need tools for 13 and 17;
- long flat blade screwdriver;
- 10mm ring wrench, you can use a ratchet head;
- key for installing the tension roller;
- wheel wrench;
- jack.
User Pro Remont shared a video that describes in detail the procedure for replacing the timing belt pulley and timing belt in a VAZ 2114 car.
Algorithm of actions
How to change a belt correctly:
- Drive the car into a garage with a pit. The surface on which work is performed must be level. Switch the gear selector to neutral position.
- Loosen the bolts on the front right wheel. Place this part of the car on a jack so that the wheel can be rotated.
- Open the hood of the car. Using a 10mm wrench, remove the three screws that secure the plastic strap protector.
- Using a 13mm wrench, you need to loosen the bolt that secures the tension roller. Remove the device.
- You can see a mark on the camshaft gear; it is made in the form of a rectangular protrusion on the edge. When performing work, it is necessary that this mark coincides with the protrusion located on the fastening of the strap casing. If these marks do not match, you need to turn the wheel until they match.
- Then find the rubberized plug installed on the top of the clutch housing; it is located to the right of the power unit’s BC. The part is carefully pryed off with a screwdriver and removed from the seat. Under the plug you can see the flywheel crown; there is a mark on this device. It should be opposite the triangular protrusion located on the left. If the marks do not match, then take a 17mm wrench and loosen the tensioner. Using a pulley removal wrench, turn the device counterclockwise to loosen the timing belt.
- When the upper part of the belt is removed from the gear assembly, take a 17mm wrench and turn the crankshaft until the flywheel marks are opposite each other. The flywheel itself must be secured in this position; to secure it, use a screwdriver and install it between the teeth. If you have an assistant, ask him to hold the tool to prevent it from turning.
- Now you can remove the right wheel. Unscrew the screws that secure the arch protection and dismantle it.
- Using a 17 mm wrench, unscrew the nut securing the generator set pulley. When unscrewing, make sure that the flywheel does not turn.
- Dismantle the generator pulley and remove it from its seat.
- Remove the timing belt from the crankshaft disc.
- Using a 17mm wrench, completely unscrew the tensioner pulley lock and remove it from its seat. If you loosen the fastening, the belt can be removed.
- Install the new product onto the crankshaft disc. When installing, make sure that the marks are not broken. Install the generator set drive pulley by first placing a strap on it.
- Place the product on the gear of the mechanism. Install the tension roller.
- The strap is being installed. During installation, the tension roller must be turned with a special tool purchased in advance at the store. If you don't have one, you can use two self-tapping screws and a screwdriver. Self-tapping screws are installed in the grooves, and a screwdriver secures them. Turning is done counterclockwise. Tension the belt using the tension roller and tighten the screw that secures the roller.
- It is necessary to set marks if they are lost during the work process. The installation procedure for all components is performed in reverse order.
Photo gallery
Photos of belt replacement are shown below.
Remove the screws securing the timing belt guard.
The mark on the camshaft gear must coincide with the mark on the housing mount
Loosen the strap tension roller by turning it counterclockwise
Remove the belt from the pulleys and install a new product
Unscrew the nut securing the generator shaft
Put on the new belt and tighten the roller
Timing belt tension method
Hello, dear visitors of Drive! The other day I noticed that the timing belt started clicking. I immediately went into the garage and removed the top half of my sawed-off drive cover. Indeed, the belt turned out to be very loose. Inspection showed that the tension roller had moved.
The belt is clearly loose
The fact is that during the previous adjustment of the belt tension, the pin began to rotate along with the roller nut. Having read horror stories about the fragility of the stud, I decided not to touch it, and, having adjusted the tension, I was afraid to tighten the nut too much. I clearly tightened it weakly, and this is the result. It's good that the belt teeth didn't jump. I realized that it is undesirable to touch this unit again, and in order not to unnecessarily rotate the nut, and with it the stud, I need a reliable way to check and adjust the tension. The method proposed in many manuals for checking belt tension by twisting it 90 degrees with a force of 2 kgf does not provide for measuring this force. It is very difficult to evaluate it subjectively. As a result, the belt is either loose and slams, threatening to jump, or it is overtightened and howls like a shot down Messerschmitt in Soviet films.
How to determine that the belt twisting force is 2 kgf?
I remembered that I read somewhere a long time ago that you can tighten the belt with a household dynamometer using a special key. I bought a key on the market for 50 rubles, but it turned out to be impossible to work with it. I had to bend it into an “G” shape, screw the sector in place and make recesses for the dynamometer hook. The length of the arm from the key pins to the point of application of the torque force is 80 mm.
Special key for adjusting the timing belt tension. The distance from the pins to the groove for the dynamometer hook is 80 mm. As it turned out later, the key can be used without an additional sector
And then everything is simple. We put the x17 key on the driven gear nut and, lightly tapping it with your hand, select the slack in the drive belt branch. Next, we insert a special key into the holes of the roller axis, engage the key rod with a dynamometer and create a force of 2.5...3.0 kgf. Holding the special wrench by the sector, tighten the roller nut. The main thing here is not to overdo it and not tighten the nut with a torque of more than 4.2 kgcm, otherwise the stud may bend and the belt will subsequently slip.
Before adjustment, it is necessary to select the slack of the pulling belt branch
The force on the dynamometer should be 2.5…3.0 kgf
Having removed the dynamometer and holding the key by the sector, tighten the roller nut
If you don't have a torque wrench, you can use the same dynamometer to control the force. I did just that, only I had to put a pipe on the key, otherwise the dynamometer scale was missing. There are no photos of this action, because there were not enough hands to hold the key with the pipe, the dynamometer and the camera. I checked the quality of tension with the engine running: when revving, the radial runout of the pulling branch of the belt was 10...12 mm, which corresponds to the norm. Yes, I forgot: before adjusting, I turned the loosened pin with pliers and a rag wrapped around the thread by almost 2 turns and tightened it; It's holding up for now. Goodbye, peace and goodness to everyone!
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As a result, if the timing belt tension is correct, then when the casing is removed, its long part will fluctuate within 1 cm. from the axis.
Signs of a faulty timing belt and their causes
The main signs that the timing belt will soon fail are:
- cracks on the outer surface;
- stratification of the working fluid;
- lack of teeth on the inner surface of the belt;
- excessive stretching.
Reasons for this may include:
- long service life;
- contact with process fluids (oil, fuel, coolant) on the belt;
- violation of the geometry (deformation) of the teeth of the crankshaft or camshaft gears;
- liquid pump bearing failure;
- manufacturing defect.
Common mistakes
- Malfunction: the belt began to whistle after replacement. In reality, it is not the belt itself that whistles, but only the roller. It had to be replaced.
- If several teeth on the old belt were torn off, the cause could be a jammed pump. Check if this is the case and replace it (drain the coolant).
Replacing the pump on the engine
- Do not install automatic roller 21116-1006238 instead of the standard tension roller.
Timing belt on a VAZ 2115 car
The belt drive on the VAZ 2115 is identical in size to the VAZ 2110 - 2114. Technical characteristics of the drive: length 1306 x number of teeth 116 x width 9.5 mm.
| Name/article | Price in rubles |
| Original | |
| VAZ-2112 / 2110 engine 16 valves, 2112-1006040-83 | From 1600 |
| VAZ 21120 (2110)-1006040-00 | From 1600 |
| VAZ 2112 (2110)-1006040 (16 valves) | From 1600 |
| GATES K015644XS | From 2000 |
| GATES K015536XS (16 valves) | From 2000 |
| GATES K055781XS, K015587, K015564 | From 2000 |
| Analogs | |
| BOSCH 2112-1006040 | From 1200 |
| INA 530055410 | From 1200 |
| CONTITECH CT996 | From 1200 |
| GATES 5539 | From 1200 |
| BOSCH 1987948286 (16 valves) | From 1300 |
| BOSCH 1987946329 | From 1300 |
| CONTITECH CT527K2 | From 1800 |
| CONTITECH CT1137K1 | From 1800 |
| LYNXauto 137FL22 (16 valves) | From 1500 |
| Hola TH1372 (16 valves) | From 1500 |
| BOSCH 198798527 (tension rollers) for VAZ 8 and 16 valves | From 450 |
We recommend: How to replace the instrument panel lamps on a Lada yourself?
*check prices with an authorized dealer at the time of purchasing parts.
Before purchasing components, check the compatibility of the part with your technical device. Check the article numbers with the data specified in the operating instructions.
When replacing parts, do not forget to place marks on the crankshaft and camshaft. Many car enthusiasts neglect the rule, as a result of which the engine does not start, operates unstably, and the ignition timing shifts.
Which manufacturer is better: domestic or foreign? Russian analogues are not inferior in quality to imported ones. Whether it’s worth overpaying for “delivery” - decide individually, but you need to listen to the opinion of experts.
Causes of timing belt wear on VAZ 2115
- Duration of vehicle operation without intermediate prevention and diagnostics;
- Installation of non-original parts, poor workmanship;
- Mismatch in length, width, number of teeth;
- Aggressive driving style, speed limits;
- High, low temperature conditions, climatic features of the region where the technical product is used.
Stages of work
Replacement is quite simple, you just need to remove the installed part and put a new one in its place, making sure that there are no defects on it that could interfere with normal operation. But both dismantling and replacing the strap with a new one must be carried out in strict accordance with the instructions.
Preparation
Before the replacement procedure itself is carried out in the VAZ-2114, you need to turn on the handbrake and also set the lever to fourth gear. This is done in order to ensure not only safe, but also convenient performance of all work, since otherwise carrying out all work will be quite difficult.
Removing the old timing belt
- Remove the cover, which protects the parts from external factors, and then remove the drive belt.
- Next, you should carefully remove the crankshaft drive pulley, without touching the mounting bolt, and then switch the lever to neutral gear.
- Carefully rotate the crankshaft clockwise, constantly paying attention to the current condition of the flywheel and the marks, which can be seen through the special hole in the clutch housing. You need to move the crankshaft until the mark is in line with the middle strip of the scale.
- Once the mark is exactly parallel to the one at the back, you should unscrew the tension roller mounting nut in order to later remove the used belt.
How to determine when it's time to change the timing belt
The most prudent thing to do would be to install a new spare part on your VAZ-2115 before the belt breaks. The following signs may indicate that urgent replacement is necessary:
- hum and extraneous noise during operation of the power unit;
- mileage on one belt is over 60 thousand kilometers;
- oil getting into the timing belt.
In a situation with a belt, it is best to spend money on a new spare part and replace it several times than to pay later for a major engine overhaul. Manufacturers often assure that you can drive up to 100 thousand kilometers on one belt on a VAZ-2115; in fact, it is better to change it every 60 or a little earlier.
Check the belt tension regularly; if it sag or distributes the load unevenly, this component may soon need to be replaced. Remember that in this part of the timing belt there is no such thing as self-adjustment during operation. Uneven tension will inevitably lead to breakage. This part of the gas distribution mechanism must be replaced immediately after the first time it is tightened.
Be sure to monitor the battery and ignition system of your VAZ-2115, since starting the engine “from the pusher” has a detrimental effect on the condition of the timing belt. The fact is that with this type of launch, the shafts begin to move with a strong jerk, which stretches the belt and leads to a decrease in its service life.
Other ways to adjust the roller
If you look at the standard and proper operation of the timing belt, then the tension roller should be located exactly in the middle of the pump and camshaft gears. However, some VAZ-2114 owners, in order to avoid the belt slipping, pull the roller to the side, closer to the camshaft, thus the belt, receiving the greatest bend in its upper part, is more firmly fixed in its place.
All tension roller components for VAZ-2114.
Not a tricky way to adjust the belt
There is another simple way that helps VAZ-2114 owners avoid the belt slipping by adjusting the position of the tension roller.
In order to fix it in this position, it is necessary to pre-make a blank in the form of a half washer made of aluminum (an aluminum can works well - approx.), which must be fixed between the spacer ring and the cylinder block.
Such a need can arise only if the spacer ring has differences in its thickness. You can take its measurements yourself, using only a caliper.
Camshaft and crankshaft
New camshaft gear
Also, judging by the numerous reviews of “our tubers”, it is possible to eliminate the occurrence of timing belt slippage after replacing the camshaft and crankshaft gears.
However, such a procedure can bring results if the car’s mileage on old spare parts is at least 100 thousand kilometers. Otherwise, such a replacement may not bring the desired result.
Rust on the crankshaft gear
Crankshaft gear rusted
This situation arises as a result of the lack of dirt protection. The gear rusts and begins to work incorrectly.
We change the belt ourselves (on the 8 valve model)
Replacing the VAZ 2114 timing belt is strictly regulated in the car's operating instructions. It is recommended to change this part after 30-45 km. But you can’t rely only on recommendations; over time, without running the required kilometers, it slips off the gears, eats, bursts, and may even rupture.
For a car with a 1.5-liter 8-valve engine installed on it, a belt break will not have serious consequences: the car will simply stop and will not start. And in a 1.3 liter engine, the valves may become damaged, which will lead to breakdown of the entire engine. If an injector is installed on the VAZ2114, then when the belt slips, eats or breaks, the dashboard will display: “headlight sensor error.” Solve the question after how many km. This part should be changed after a visual inspection and a replacement should be made if it is in poor condition. Which strap is better to choose is written in the manual for the VAZ 2114.
Required Tools
To carry out the replacement yourself, you need to prepare new spare parts and tools:
- a set of keys;
- new timing belt;
- new tension roller.
New consumables for installation
Stages of work
The DIY replacement sequence consists of the following steps:
- The car must be set to the handbrake.
- Set to 4th or 5th gear.
- After unscrewing the three bolts, remove the cover that protects the camshaft drive.
- Next, you need to loosen the generator drive belt and remove it from the crankshaft along with the pulley, leaving the bolt that holds it in place.
- Now the car should be put into neutral gear.
- The next step is to take care of the marks. To do this, rotate the crankshaft in a clockwise direction, observing the marks and the flywheel. The shaft should be rotated until the mark is parallel to the middle division of the scale.
- After making sure that the mark on the pulley is opposite the mark on the protective cover, you need to slightly loosen the fastening nut on the tension roller. If necessary, change the tension roller.
- Using a roller, you need to loosen the tension of the strap to remove it.
- Next, you need to install a new product on the crankshaft timing pulley.
- Then you need to pull the leading branch of the product onto the camshaft pulley so that it does not sag.
- Then turn the crankshaft 1.5-2 turns and set the marks. If the marks do not match, the belt should be removed and the installation procedure repeated again.
- After setting the marks, you need to unscrew the bolt on the crankshaft and put the generator pulley in place, securing it with the bolt.
- By turning the tension roller counterclockwise, it is necessary to adjust the timing belt tension and put on the alternator belt.
Nut for loosening and tightening
- After completing all the work, you need to start the engine and determine by the sound whether it is necessary to adjust the belt tension.
Why you should change the timing belt yourself: you will save time and money, you will know what to do if it slips or eats.
Installation process
The timing belt itself is a rubber product closed with teeth inward, which synchronizes the torque between the camshaft and crankshaft. Ignoring its wear will not lead to anything good, because in the best case, your engine will stall while driving, and in the worst case, the entire wheelbase will jam, which can lead to the most unpredictable incidents on the road.
The replacement and debugging itself is carried out in two stages, in the first stage the main repair and debugging work is carried out, and the second stage carries the function of monitoring the work done.
First stage
- The assistant gets into the car and puts 5th gear in the gearbox, and at this time you remove the front belt protection.
- Insert the ratchet into the place allocated for it and begin to turn the crankshaft, you need to do this until you see that the mark located on the camshaft has not moved to remove several teeth from the control antenna of the rear cover. (this action is necessary to reduce the degree of belt tension).
- We dismantle the drive pulley on the crankshaft and return the mounting bolt to its place.
- The assistant switches the gearbox to “neutral”.
- Again, we begin to carefully turn the crankshaft until the mark on the VAZ 2114 flywheel is in the central position.
Coincidence of the mark on the flywheel with the slot in the bar
- We check that the installation mark of the rear cover matches the mark located on the camshaft pulley; if they match, then you can unscrew the roller nut, then remove the belt itself.
- We install a new belt - we start with the roller, then we put it on the pump pulley and lastly on the crankshaft pulley.
- We adjust the tension by turning the adjusting roller counterclockwise.
- Carefully turn the crankshaft again so that the marks are in their previous position (they will 100% go astray when putting on a new belt and adjusting the tension).
Mark on the crankshaft pulley
Second stage (control-final)
- Before checking the timing marks on the VAZ 2114, you need to fix the pulley on the generator and tension the belt with a roller to the maximum.
- Now we check all the matches, if nothing is wrong anywhere, then we install the protection back and clean the workplace.
Looking under the hood of your car, with knowledge of this information, you will understand that there is nothing difficult in this procedure, but its success is quite dependent on the skill of the performer. Therefore, if something doesn’t work out the first time, just repeat the operation, you may even need to do it twice. Don’t be discouraged, because after the difficult first time it will only take you a few minutes, like a seasoned professional.
Timing roller location
Before you begin diagnosing or replacing the timing belt and rollers on a VAZ 2115 with 8 valves, you need to determine where the system itself is located. You can find it on the left side of the engine if you stand in front of the hood. It is located under a protective cover that prevents debris and dust from entering the system. For visual diagnostics, simply unscrew a couple of bolts and remove the upper part of the casing. However, if you are planning a more serious operation, such as replacing a belt or rollers, this will not be enough.
A few tips before you start replacing the timing belt
Firstly, it is recommended to immediately change the tension roller along with replacing the timing belt. Secondly, before installing a new timing belt, you need to check whether there is grease on the roller and whether there is any play in the pump. Thirdly, if after replacing the timing belt you hear a characteristic whistle, then its tension needs to be slightly loosened. It is worth noting that the operation of replacing the timing belt is not complicated and therefore you don’t have to pay the technicians at a car service center, but carry out all the work yourself. The timing belt replacement process is divided into two phases, which we will discuss below.
Why change the belt?
In the list of routine maintenance for the VAZ 2114, the manufacturer provides for replacing the timing belt every 60-75 thousand kilometers. However, given the quality of our spare parts, experienced car enthusiasts recommend replacing it after no more than 30-40 thousand km.
The belt should be visually inspected for visible mechanical damage at least once a month. If the slightest problem is detected, it must be replaced immediately.
If this is not done, the tension pulley may fail, as well as the water pump. In addition, there are cases when parts of the belt wrap around the generator pulley, which leads to blocking of its shaft.
But there is also good news. In VAZ 2114 cars with 8-valve engines of 1.5 and 1.6 liters, a broken belt does not threaten bending of the valves and damage to the cylinder head, which cannot be said about sixteen-valve engines, where a similar problem occurs in 90% of cases.
Recommendations
Excessive belt tension causes increased wear on the water pump bearings and tension pulley. If the belt tension is weak, the valve timing may be disrupted due to the belt jumping over the teeth on the camshaft pulley. In addition, improper adjustment leads to increased belt wear.
Rotate the crankshaft only by the bolt securing the pulley to it (do not turn the crankshaft by the camshaft pulley).
The tension roller is turned with a special key. If it is not available, you can use a screwdriver and two suitable pins ∅ 4 mm (for example, drills) that fit tightly into the holes of the roller.
Correctly tensioning the timing belt on production vehicles is a simple procedure, but it requires certain special knowledge.
The algorithm of actions may vary slightly depending on the model of the power unit, and not on the make of the car. There are differences in the procedure for replacing and tensioning the belt on 8-valve and 16-valve engines. Read on to find out how to tighten the timing belt on both types of car hearts.
Four-cylinder eight-valve power units are more often found on:
Sixteen-valve engines are mainly used:
A number of cars of the Samara 2 family were also equipped with 16-valve engines. In addition, such engines were also installed on models 2110-2111.
Removing the old timing belt
Work order
1. Place the machine on a horizontally level area and secure it with the parking brake.
2.In the engine compartment, it is necessary to remove the protective plastic timing cover. To do this, unscrew the 3 bolts securing it (10 wrench).
3.Using a wheel wrench, slightly unscrew the bolts securing the front right wheel disk.
4.Raise the car body near the right front wheel with a jack. Completely unscrew the bolts securing the disc and remove the wheel.
5. Unscrew the two bolts securing the protective casing (engine protection) in the area of the right front wheel.
6.Unfold the protective cover.
7. We loosen the tension of the generator belt by unscrewing the tensioner nuts (wrenches 10 and 13).
8.Move the generator towards the crankshaft pulley.
9. Dismantle the alternator belt.
10.Now you need to remove the crankshaft pulley. It is secured with a 19mm bolt. Very often, unscrewing it is quite problematic, since the pulley itself must be fixed. In carburetor engines it has holes located around the circumference. Here it is easier to insert a screwdriver or key into one of the holes and thus immobilize it. There are no such holes in injection engines, so you can fix the crankshaft either by immobilizing the flywheel, inserting a screwdriver between its teeth and the clutch housing, or by resting the key (curved end) on the right tie rod, as shown in the photo, and crank the crankshaft using the starter .
11.Unscrew the bolt, remove the generator drive pulley, screw the bolt back in.
12.Remove the timing belt.
13. Loosen the tensioner roller nut (key 13).
14. We dismantle the tensioner pulley and install a new one in its place without tightening the nut that secures it.
15.Now you need to align the camshaft and crankshaft to the marks. To do this, take a 17mm wrench, place it on the camshaft gear fixing bolt and rotate it until the mark on it coincides with the protrusion on the inner protective (metal) belt cover. Next, using the same key, placed over the crankshaft pulley mounting bolt, we rotate the crankshaft until the marks on the timing gear (drilled funnel) and on the engine housing (cast protrusion) match.
16. Additionally, it would not hurt to make sure that the position of the flywheel is consistent. The mark on it should coincide with the notch on the clutch housing.
17.If everything is in order, proceed to installation.
Causes of breakdowns
Most failures of rollers, belts and other components of the gas distribution system are in one way or another related to improper belt tension. An overtightened belt can lead to wear on the bracket, the surface of the pulleys and the bearings in the rollers. In turn, if the tension is insufficient, the belt begins to slip over the rollers and gears, its teeth break off and fall under the belt itself, leaving dents on the rollers. That is why during installation, set the correct belt tension. Under no circumstances should it be installed on a hot or even warm engine. Because as soon as the engine cools down, the belt will begin to sag. To check the tension, you will need a spring scale and a caliper. We grab the scale by the section of the belt between the crankshaft gears and pull it down to the ten kilogram mark. Then, using a caliper, we measure the deviation from the normal position. If the deviation is 5-5.5 millimeters, you have set the belt tension correctly.
In addition, among the common malfunctions are fuel or oil leaks. During a leak, liquid gets onto the belt and begins to corrode it. This can be determined by the pieces of rubber and synthetic threads stuck around the rollers. Another common cause of breakdowns is the entry of debris and foreign bodies into the system. This can be determined by cracks and potholes on the working surface of the roller, caused by debris getting under the belt. Do not forget about malfunctions caused by system overheating.
Procedure for replacing timing rollers
Before replacing, you first need to install the car on a viewing hole or lift and let the engine cool for two to three hours. If you perform a hot replacement, you risk serious burns. Before the replacement itself, you need to remove the key from the ignition switch and disconnect the negative contact of the battery pack.
You will need the following tools:
- 10mm socket and ratchet;
- Open-end wrenches for 13 and 17;
- Flat head screwdriver;
- Tensioner pulley wrench;
- Jack;
- Cross key.
The procedure for replacing rollers and timing belt on a VAZ 2115 is as follows:
- We dismantle the protective casing of the gas distributor;
- Remove the belt tensioner for the attachments;
- We put the car in neutral and jack up the right front wheel;
- We rotate the car wheel until the mark on the camshaft gear matches the mark on the belt cover;
- We align the flywheel so that the mark on it aligns with the triangle on the body. To do this, loosen the tension roller and turn it counterclockwise;
- We fix the flywheel in the desired position by inserting a screwdriver between its teeth;
- We dismantle the front right wheel, after which we dismantle the protective arches;
- Unscrew the fixing nut of the generator gear. When carrying out this procedure, make sure that the flywheel has not moved from the desired position;
- Remove the generator pulley;
- Loosen the belt tension and remove it. If replacement is necessary, we dismantle the roller itself;
- We unscrew the parasitic gas distributor roller and change it;
- We mount the pulleys and gears in place and pull the timing belt onto them. Make sure that the crankshaft and flywheel alignment marks are not off;
- We tighten the timing belt. To do this, we rotate the tension roller counterclockwise using a special key.
We carry out further assembly in reverse order. When assembling, make sure that you do not knock down the inserted marks.
