The device serves to transform mechanical energy from the crankshaft into electricity. The generator charges the battery and is also a source of alternating current and power for all electrical equipment of the car. It has a diode bridge (rectifiers) and a voltage regulation unit, operating in parallel with the battery.
Standard generator Grants
At the factory, VAZ 2190 and 2191 are equipped with a device with the catalog designation KZATE 115A (9402.3701-14). It has the following technical characteristics:
- rated voltage – 14 V;
- maximum current – 115 A;
- shaft rotation speed – 1200 rpm. (without load);
- shaft rotation speed at a maximum current of 115 A – 6000 rpm.
The main components of the generator are a stationary stator and a rotor rotating in it. The parts are separated from each other by an air gap. Their main working part is the winding and magnetic circuit. Other components serve to provide adequate rigidity, cooling, etc.
The brush assembly is necessary to connect the rotor electrical network to the stationary stator winding; it consists of several graphite contacts. A diode bridge is used to convert AC to DC current and is also called a rectifier block. The regulator converts the output electricity into the desired voltage.
To protect the car's network from surges, a step-down capacitor with a capacity of 2.2 μF is used. After turning on the ignition, voltage is supplied through the control lamp: the battery icon lights up on the instrument panel. After the engine starts, the generator receives power from the rectifier unit: the lamp on the panel goes out.
Review of manufacturers, cost of brackets for generator
| Manufacturer article number | Price, rub.) | Resource (Thousand km) |
| Bosch 2170-3701010-13 (F000 BL0 652) | From 4200 | 90– 100 |
| Standard KzATE 115A 9402-3701000-03 | From 3800 – 4000 | 85 — 90 |
| Pulley FENOX OP6034 | From 1800 | 60 – 70 |
| Brushes Cargo BX2132 | From 180 | 75 — 85 |
| —/— TRT5 10142 | —/— | —/— |
| Generator bracket with tension adjustment VAZ 1118 Kalina, VAZ 2190 Granta TEKHNOMASTER3701.0200.04 | From 1800 - 2000 | 100 |
| Bracket AvtoVAZ 21900-1041034-00 | From 1200 – 1300 | 100 |
| Tension roller VAZ 2123104105610 | From 500 | 85 — 105 |
| 21230-1041056 | —/— | —/— |
| Timing belt roller (tensioner) RUVILLE 55306 | From 600 | —/— |
| GATES T42041 | From 800 | —/— |
| DAYCO ATB1009 | —/— | —/— |
*prices are current as of November 3, 2020.
Basic faults
Failures associated with the failure of the Granta generator lead to discharge or, conversely, overcharging of the battery and its boiling. In both cases, this will make further operation of the car impossible. If the belt is overtightened, problems with high bearing wear will soon arise. If the belt tension is insufficient, slipping will occur and the battery will receive too little charge.
Normally, a working generator produces 14.5 V; exceeding this value is most often due to a breakdown of the voltage regulator. Without urgent replacement of the element, constant recharging of the battery will lead to shedding of lead plates and battery malfunction. If the unit does not produce the required voltage, and it is below 13 V, then the problem may not only be with the regulator, but also with the fact that the brushes are worn out, the diode bridge or windings are damaged.
It happens that suspicious sounds occur during operation, in which case the nature of the noise is important. It’s not difficult to deal with this: just remove the wires from the generator. If the rotation of the pulley is accompanied by a howling or squealing noise, then the problem is in the bearings. If, after removing the wires, the noise disappears, then it is in the diode bridge, or a short circuit has occurred in the winding. In any case, repairs are inevitable, and sometimes only replacing the unit will help.
Typical faults and methods for their elimination:
Cause of malfunction
Remedy
Design features of the generator belt tensioner
Such a component as the generator belt tensioner has a very simple structural design, is easy to repair, and even a not very skilled driver can install the tensioner.
It is known that each car manufacturer creates tensioners according to its own designs, but most tensioners have the following components:
— bracket for mounting on the engine;
— belt tensioner roller;
The bracket is secured to the engine using 3-4 bolts or studs. It is believed that the most vulnerable point of the tensioner is the bearing. It has been experimentally proven that the bearing, being constantly in motion and simply making a countless number of revolutions, exhausts its life and needs to be replaced.
After completing the procedure for removing the alternator belt, diagnosing the bearing is very easy. A properly functioning bearing should have no play.
The bracket can cause just as much trouble. After some time, the bracket tends to bend slightly, displacing the roller from the plane of rotation of the belt. This defect can be observed not only in cars that have a significant mileage.
Sometimes a bent alternator belt tensioner is also found on completely new cars, which casts a shadow on the shortcomings of the factory production.
The belt tensioner pulley of the Grant generator also fails. Such a defect leads to a weakening of the belt tension, which in turn can affect the operation of the generator.
It is very easy to diagnose such a problem, because it is diagnosed in the same way as the Grant timing belt tensioner pulley - you just need to loosen the tension of the roller and rotate it. Rotation must occur without difficulty and play, otherwise it will need to be replaced.
Replacing the VAZ 2190 alternator belt
According to the maintenance regulations, the condition of the drive belt must be checked every 15 thousand km, and the part must be changed every 30 thousand km, even if it is visually in good condition. The 8-valve Granta power unit does not provide a device for tensioning the belt, therefore, it is considered a disposable consumable, i.e. its repeated installation is not allowed.
To independently check this rubber product, you need to perform a few simple manipulations. 5th gear is engaged first. Then you need to lean on the front bumper and try to roll the car away from you, while at the same time assessing the appearance of the belt. It should not have even small cracks, not to mention peeling and ruptures, which often appear during prolonged use.
Replacing the Lada Granta alternator belt begins with its purchase. Usually the original spare part is not very expensive. Characteristics of the Lada Granta belt:
- article in the catalog – 1118-1041020-07;
- length (size) – 823 mm;
- marking on the package – 6РК 823.
To work you will need a minimum set of tools:
- stationery knife;
- screwdriver or long mounting blade;
- key to "13".
Replacement is carried out as follows:
- Remove the old belt. To do this, it is most convenient to cut it with a knife.
- Unscrew the lower mounting bolt of the unit two or three turns using a “13” key.
- Unscrew the nut and remove the mounting bolt from above.
- Now, being careful, you need to try to rotate the generator so that the eye on top can go beyond the protrusion of the bracket. The generator should be pressed against it and secured with available materials. An ordinary wire will do, with which it is tied to the cylinder head cover nut.
- Place the belt on the pulleys first.
- Turn on the fifth speed, at the same time press the belt against the pulley (outside help is needed). The car should be pushed again so that the belt is in its place.
- Remove the wire and, armed with a screwdriver, press the generator at the point of contact with the bracket, and then screw the bolt into the upper mount.
Next, all that remains is to tighten the nut and tighten the lower fastening. This concludes the procedure.
Replacing the generator bracket with tensioner on the Lada Grant from Lada Kalina
Bracket from Lada Kalina
Despite the fact that the previous method is the most economical, it is time-consuming.
Many drivers prefer to pay an additional 350-450 rubles and purchase a ready-made kit for installing a bracket from the Lada Kalina to the Lada Granta.
The sequence of actions is as follows:
- After dismantling the converter from its standard place in the engine compartment, we proceed to install the bracket from the Lada Kalina.
Original equipment of the modernized mount:
- belt;
- tensioner roller;
- bracket;
- axis to “10”;
- tensioner
- We unscrew the three mounting screws from the old converter, remove the old bracket, install and screw the new one.
- We fix the structure in its regular place, screw the three nuts to “13”.
- We activate the rocker to the third gear position.
- We put on the generator belt, turn the generator pulley by hand until the belt fits into the groove grooves.
We start the engine, check the charging and the LED indication on the dashboard.
Where is the standard generator located on a Lada Granta car?
Regardless of the modification of the Lada Grant, the converter is installed in the engine compartment on the left side, closer to the radiator of the cooling system.
The design of the Lada Granta’s engine compartment is not “entirely successful”; craftsmen have difficulty dismantling the equipment.
Engine compartment
The difference between replacing the generator bracket in 16 and 8 valve engines
The brackets are identical in shape and number of fasteners. The difference is the absence of an automatic tensioner in the 8-valve engine modification.
The Lada Granta generator bracket with air conditioning is identical to the 16-valve modification of the engine.
Difference between belts of 16 and 8 valve engines
For Lada Granta models, an alternator belt with the following markings is used:
- 8 valves: 1118-1041020-07: 6РК 823, length 823 mm, thickness 3.0 mm;
- 16 valves: 6PK1123 with air conditioning, 6PK1113 with power steering, without air conditioning.
Signs of generator malfunction, methods for eliminating them
| Sign | Cause/remedies |
| The control diode on the console does not light up when the engine starts | The power circuit is broken in the section from the battery to the generator. Checking the continuity of the circuit circuit. |
| The control diode does not go out after starting the power unit | The belt tension is weak, insufficient to generate current. Check the voltage in the circuit. |
| The brushes are badly worn, the diode bridge has become unusable. We measure the output voltage with a tester. We replace worn elements as necessary. | |
| Shorts to ground | The cable insulation is damaged. Check the insulating coating. |
| The output voltage from the converter is below 14 - 16V | The contact terminals have oxidized. Clean with a metal brush, sandpaper, or file. Replace with new ones as needed. |
| Replace the battery. | |
| Insufficient drive belt tension. Adjust the tension. | |
| The diode bridge has become unusable. Install a new one. | |
| The battery is not receiving charge from the converter | Replacing the rectifier bridge. |
| Damage to the power cable. Replacing wiring. | |
| The voltage in the circuit drops randomly | The terminal connections are weak, the clamps are oxidized. Tighten the terminals, replace with new ones. |
Related link:
Lada Kalina: changing the engine oil and oil filter
List of online stores selling generators and components for the Lada Granta
(Moscow, St. Petersburg, Kyiv region)
| № | Name | Address |
| 1. | "LadaShop" | Kiev, st. Veresnevaya, 24, 2nd floor https://ladashop.kiev.ua/ |
| 2. | Service station on Zatyshnaya | https://genstar.ua/, Kiev, Zatyshnaya st., 7b, Bolshaya Okrug st., 4b, Krinichnaya st., 2, Polyarnaya st., 10th century. |
| 3. | "Engine" | https://dvizhcom.ru/ |
| 4. | "TopDetail" | https://topdetal.ru/ |
| 5. | "AutoWall" | https://www.avtoall.ru/ |
| 6. | "Autocompass" | https://www.autocompas.ru/ |
Review of manufacturers, cost of brackets for generator
| Manufacturer article number | Price, rub.) | Resource (Thousand km) |
| Bosch 2170-3701010-13 (F000 BL0 652) | From 4200 | 90– 100 |
| Standard KzATE 115A 9402-3701000-03 | From 3800 – 4000 | 85 — 90 |
| Pulley FENOX OP6034 | From 1800 | 60 – 70 |
| Brushes Cargo BX2132 | From 180 | 75 — 85 |
| —/— TRT5 10142 | —/— | —/— |
| Generator bracket with tension adjustment VAZ 1118 Kalina, VAZ 2190 Granta TEKHNOMASTER3701.0200.04 | From 1800 - 2000 | 100 |
| Bracket AvtoVAZ 21900-1041034-00 | From 1200 – 1300 | 100 |
| Tension roller VAZ 2123104105610 | From 500 | 85 — 105 |
| 21230-1041056 | —/— | —/— |
| Timing belt roller (tensioner) RUVILLE 55306 | From 600 | —/— |
| GATES T42041 | From 800 | —/— |
| DAYCO ATB1009 | —/— | —/— |
*prices are current as of November 3, 2018.
Recommendations for the selection of parts and components
In the absence of external mechanical damage, the service life of the brackets is unlimited. In practice, manufacturers set a maximum warranty period of 100,000 km.
Regardless of the modification or type of bracket, purchase only original parts with factory catalog numbers.
Save money or buy fasteners from Lada Kalina - this is the choice car owners face. The difference in the cost of parts is 350 – 450 rubles. The final choice is up to the driver.
The expert's advice is to buy fasteners from Lada Kalina.
Reviews
| № | Positive |
| 1. | Gennady: the 8-valve Lada does not have a tensioner, I drove without it for two years and suffered. On the advice of my comrades, I installed a bracket from Tehnomaster. Cheap and practical. |
| 2. | Vitaly: Of course, there is not enough automatic tensioner as standard, but I installed the mount from Lada Kalina myself. It works properly, no complaints. |
| 3. | Vyacheslav: after a year of using the car, I installed a mechanical tensioner from Tehnomaster. I didn’t pay an extra 500 rubles for the Kalinovsky video. It has been working properly for two months, the bearings are intact, the belt fits evenly in the grooves. |
| 4. | Victor: I bought a tensioner from Kalina, installed it myself, it wasn’t difficult at all, I had the instructions at hand. I've been driving for three months, no problems. My recommendations to motorists. |
| 5. | Alexander: I advise grant providers to buy a tensioner from Kalina, it costs 1600 - 1800 rubles. I’ve been using it for six months, the quality is good, the bearings are intact, the generator does not creak. |
| 6. | Vasily: after six months of using the machine, the generator bearings fell off, I visited the service center and installed new ones. On the recommendation of the craftsmen, I bought a bracket from Lada Kalina, which I also installed. Now there are no problems with belt tension. |
| 7. | Ignat: I knew about the problem of bearings on the Grant before the purchase, so I purchased a tensioner from Lada Kalina in advance. I installed it myself, the process is not complicated. My recommendations to motorists. |
| Negative | |
| 8. | Dmitry: During the service, I installed a mechanical tensioner from Tehnomaster. The fastener served for two months, after which the bushing began to warp and the belt began to slip off the pulley. I didn’t like the quality, I’ll buy a Kalinovsky bracket. |
| 9. | Georgy: I used the bracket from Tehnomaster for six months, there were no comments on the work. After I noticed a distortion in the structure, I restored the factory fastening. |
| 10. | Ivan: I ordered the installation of a bracket from Tehnomaster at the service center. The fastening served for several months, after which the structure began to bend. The workmanship is very primitive. |
Related link:
Tips from experts on replacing the thermostat on your own on a Lada Grant (16 valves)
Alternative belt replacement options
Insufficient tension creates less inconvenience than constriction. The latter provokes too rapid wear of the bearings. To avoid such a problem, many Grant owners install the tensioner themselves: a part from the Lada Kalina is perfect for this.
The manufacturer does not initially install the part at the factory, since it positions Granta as the most affordable in its class, hence the savings on components. This is typical for the cheapest models with an 8-valve power unit.
To adjust the belt tension, you can use a bracket from Kalina, modifying it a little with your own hands. To do this you will need the following set:
- bracket;
- tensioner;
- roller bracket;
- alternator belt from Kalina 1;
- screw tensioner.
Thanks to this kit, you can significantly improve the design of your car, extending the service life of some parts and components.
Self-check the condition of the alternator belt
Before replacing an implement belt, drivers should perform a visual inspection to determine if replacement is necessary. To perform diagnostics, the vehicle must be stationary. To prevent the car from rolling during inspection, clamps should be installed under the wheels. The generator belt is located in the engine compartment, and is tensioned on the pulleys of the attachment.
The entire product must be checked. Having examined one area, inspect all the others sequentially, turning the belt. You can make a mark at the place where the inspection began.
The following signs indicate the need for replacement:
- cracks and abrasions on the surface, both internal and external;
- frayed, sides;
- peeling of rubber from rubber;
- mechanical damage;
- traces of oil and working fluids are on the surface.
During inspection, you also need to check the belt tension. If it is loosely tensioned, the generator will not work at full capacity. Too much tension causes premature wear of the bearings and strap. To check the tension, press the belt in a place free from equipment. With a force of approximately 10 kg, the deflection should not be more than 7-8 cm.
If the tension is insufficient, then you need to know how to tighten the belt. The tensioner screw acts as a regulator; it is used to perform tension (video author – Remgar).
When replacing a belt, it is advisable to change the tensioner pulley, which should also be inspected. It should be free of scratches, chips, play, and deformation. The roller should rotate freely without delay. You should not neglect regularly checking the condition of the belt drive.
If the belt breaks on the way, further movement is only possible using the battery. But even if it is fully charged, you can move it for no more than one hour. Therefore, it is recommended to have a spare alternator belt in the trunk in case it breaks.
Generator replacement
The problem with the standard Lada Granta generator is known to many owners of this car. To troubleshoot problems, it is most often necessary to remove the device. Conventionally, unit breakdowns can be divided into two types - mechanical and electrical. But one of the most common problems associated with replacing a device is the natural wear and tear of components. Therefore, sooner or later, every car enthusiast faces the question of replacing or repairing a generator.
The procedure has some difficulties, but it is quite possible to do it yourself. Removing the unit may also be necessary for maintenance or to improve the design of the car. The dismantling procedure has its own characteristics depending on the engine configuration (8- or 16-valve), as well as on the presence of air conditioning.
Video “Detailed instructions for replacing the RG on a Lada Granta car”
You can learn how to properly replace the strap on the domestic Lada Grant from the video below (the author of the video is MR. BORODA).
On cars of the Lada Granta family with 8-valve engines, an automatic alternator belt tensioner is not pre-installed. Engine modifications are as follows: VAZ-11183, VAZ-21116, VAZ-11186.
You can compensate for the lack of a tensioner in different ways:
- monthly check of the tension level of the converter drive, which is impractical and costly;
- replacing the standard KATEK generator with a Bosch: not every car owner will afford to purchase an imported converter;
- systematic “updating” of the generator bearings: excessive tension of the drive belt, the absence of an automatic tensioner in the design creates the preconditions for premature wear of the bearings;
- set the fastening bolt with a diameter of “6.0” instead of “10.0”, which will increase the free play of the converter by a few millimeters to adjust the tension;
- “makeshift” modification of the standard bracket for the Lada Granta generator;
- replacing the Lada Granta generator bracket with the Kalina bracket.
Each of the above methods has its own advantages and disadvantages. Let's consider the last two options for “modernization” as the most common.
Replacing a generator on an 8-valve Granta engine
To work, you need to use three keys (at “8”, “10”, “13”) and a mounting blade. First, disconnect the “–” terminal from the battery. The operating procedure is as follows:
- Remove the engine protection by removing two rear and four front bolts.
- Disconnect the wire block.
- Remove the protective cap from the nut that holds the power wire.
- Unscrew the power cable nut.
- Release the top fastening by unscrewing the nut.
- Move the generator away with a mounting spatula or a long screwdriver, and remove the upper mounting bolt.
- Loosen the lower fastening.
- Press the generator from the engine using improvised means, for example, a mounting spatula, removing the lower mounting bolt.
- Move the generator to the right side.
- Remove the belt from the pulleys.
- Remove the generator.
To install the device in its original place, perform all steps in reverse order. You need to make sure that the grooves on the pulleys match the grooves on the belt.
Preparatory stage before modifying the Lada Granta generator belt bracket
Necessary tools, materials:
- a set of car keys, sockets, ratchet, screwdriver with a flat, cross-shaped bit;
- rags;
- liquid for removing deposits and rust WD-40;
- hammer, drill, metal drill bit for “6”, “8”, “10”;
- graphite-based lubricant;
- additional lighting, since visibility in the engine compartment is limited;
- metal mounting;
- torque wrench;
- bolt with a diameter of "8", length 100 - 110 mm.
Link on topic:
Features of replacing hydraulic compensators on the Lada Granta 16 valves
Replacing a generator on a car with a 16-valve engine
Dismantling and subsequent installation of the device on Grant modifications with a 16-valve power unit have their own characteristics: there is a belt tensioner. Therefore, the procedure for removal and installation is somewhat more complicated. As in the previous case, you will need a standard set of tools, and before starting work, the negative terminal of the battery is disconnected. It is necessary to remove the engine protection, if any. After this, you can begin to remove the unit by following these steps:
- Disconnect the wiring harness from the generator.
- Remove the cap covering the power wire.
- Using a “10” wrench, unscrew the nut that holds the wire tip.
- Use a key set to “13” to loosen the tension bar nut.
- Loosen the belt by unscrewing the adjusting bolt to the left.
- Move the generator to the right and remove the belt.
- Unscrew the adjustment bolt completely and remove it.
- Remove the tension bar.
- Unscrew the fastening nut from below.
- Remove the bushing and remove the bolt holding the lower mount.
- Remove the generator.
Car with air conditioning: the differences are not only in the presence of a tensioner
Owners of cars with air conditioning will have to stock up on WD-40 or similar lubricant, a “10” key, and also a cylinder one, since the right front wheel will need to be removed.
We do not change the procedure, otherwise the lubricant will not have time to act.
- We wet the bolts securing the cushion and bracket.
- We support the front part of the car on the right with a jack.
- We remove the wheel.
- While lowering the car, unscrew the tension roller.
We work carefully because we only need a little engine lift.
Note that to work you will have to lower the car without the wheel.
An attempt to reduce the cost of cheap Grant configurations led to the absence of a tensioner on the alternator belt, which is why the latter can be over-tensioned and, as a result, fail.
Replacing the grant generator belt without tensioner
Replacing the alternator belt without tensioner, solution =)
Replacing the grant generator belt without tensioner
Modification of the Lada Granta generator mount
Remaking the belt tensioner of the LADA Kalina generator
Then remove the floor tunnel lining from the left leg side of the front passenger, up to the upper surface of the block. One of the disadvantages of the 2108 8212 body is its weakness relative to the Lada Granta: replacing the alternator belt without a tensioner with the front wheels on a bulge such as a curb or a large stone. For this reason, many car enthusiasts replace them at the first opportunity, choosing more reliable parts. But you understand perfectly well that any liquid loses its properties over time.
The reaction to a sharp decrease in fuel supply in a turn in the ninety-ninth is very logical: it unambiguously screws inward and skids the rear axle. Well, with rare exceptions, and regardless of the brand, they worked. Let's see what the manufacturer advises us; many people fill in oil made in Korea and other oils.
When disassembling and dismantling the sensors, they must be sorted, in turn, directly interacting with the cooling system of the vehicle, where the refrigerant acts as a coolant. I went to the car market and wanted to find half a set of deflectors, the one I lost in the case. This is all maintenance work on the crankcase ventilation system. What, in your opinion, it turns out that you set the brush correctly, and after it has worked, it stops vertically. Interior climate control system only for vehicles that provide smoother forward seat travel and.
At the same time, the monster of the Russian automotive industry plans to lead the automotive market further. It is at the connection points of contact with the current-carrying conductor and other ignition system parts that electrical disruption of the network most often occurs.
VAZ 2190 was launched on sale in 2011. The car is a budget version of the Lada Kalina with a larger trunk and a more modern generator mechanism. The mechanism for adjusting the alternator belt tensioner that is missing in the Lada Granta is its feature, unlike other models. The economy class model was designed to replace its outdated predecessors, whose production at AvtoVAZ had already ceased.
Replacing a generator on a Grant with air conditioning
An air conditioner powered by a generator significantly complicates the design and operation of attachments: it must be moved away before removing the generator. The list of required tools includes:
We start by removing the negative terminal from the battery. After this, you can begin work on dismantling the generator:
- The bolts are treated with WD-40.
- The engine protection is removed.
- The bracket nut is unscrewed.
- The right front part is lifted with a jack (after loosening the wheel bolts).
- The wheel is removed.
- The tension roller and bolts holding the engine mount are unscrewed.
- The car is lowered with a jack, and the engine mount will move, opening access to the generator.
The further removal procedure is no different from the methods described above. Installation is carried out in the reverse order of removal.
The Lada Granta car is positioned as one of the cheapest in its segment. Most owners note the presence of chronic problems caused by low-quality components. Among the huge variety of such problems is the low reliability and fragility of the standard generator.
The most reliable way to overcome these shortcomings is to replace the unit with a device of higher quality. For example, you can install an analogue from Bosch at 110 A. The replacement will not require a major transformation of the car’s design, and the effect will be noticeable. In this way, you can get rid of most problems associated with the vehicle's electrical supply for a long time.
Join our club, share your first impressions of the car, start your blog on our website. In the near future we will hold a competition for the best review of the Lada Granta.
Hi all. Due to the great urgency of the problem with the generator, I decided to write a short blog about how I solved this problem. At first I wanted to supply all the parts from fret 1118, but when I couldn’t find these spare parts, I did it differently. To do this, I needed a grinder, a sharpener, the top bolt of the generator 2 cm longer than the original one, and straight arms
