Idle speed sensor VAZ 2110 (IAC): repair and replacement


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Many people underestimate the importance of sensors or idle air control. But in fact, the speed stability depends on the correct operation of the IAC. It also prevents the car from stalling when the gearshift lever is in an intermediate position.

In this material we will talk about the meaning, device, and signs of malfunction of this device. We’ll also tell you how you can easily replace the IAC with your own hands.

Appearance of the device

General concepts

One of the most common troubles that prevents you from fully driving a car is the idle speed sensor of the VAZ 2110 and modifications.
Although this device is called a sensor among drivers, it will still be correctly called the idle speed controller, abbreviated as IAC, because all automobile sensors are measuring equipment, and this product serves to automatically stabilize and maintain idle speed by supplying air to the engine VAZ 2110 with the throttle valve fully closed. IAC is an important component of the engine and plays a significant role in the stable and uninterrupted operation of any VAZ vehicle.

Idle speed control

The VAZ 2110 idle speed sensor (abbreviated DXX) is an actuator, simply a valve consisting of an electric motor, a spring, and a rod on which a shut-off needle is installed (you can see it in the photo). It is through which the volume of air is dosed. That is, when the throttle of a VAZ 2110, 2112 is completely closed, and the controller determines that the idle speed needs to be increased, the IAC generates a command to change the position of the needle. It moves, partially or completely opening the intake port, through which air bypasses the throttle and then mixes with fuel. As a result, the engine does not stall.

Causes of failure. Node check

The reasons for the malfunction of the XX regulator are breaks in the electrical winding. engine and needle jamming due to dirt or corrosion. But the sensor is not always the “culprit” for missing idle speed. Therefore, before removing and checking the sensor, check its power supply circuit.

For all checks you will need a multimeter. The power circuit is checked with a device set to “voltmeter” mode. Diagnostics is simple - we disconnect the block with wires from the regulator, connect the “negative” probe of the multimeter to ground, and the positive one to the terminals marked with the letters “A” and “D”. With the ignition on, we take measurements. If the circuit is working properly, the readings should correspond to the rated voltage of the circuit. If there is no voltage, you should check the computer and relays responsible for powering the sensor.

To make it easier to check the sensor itself, remove it from the car. To do this, you only need a screwdriver. To remove a part you need:

  1. Disconnect the on-board network (remove the terminal from the battery).
  2. Find the regulator (installed on the throttle assembly).
  3. Disconnect the wiring (after operating the lock).
  4. Unscrew the two fastening screws;
  5. Remove the regulator.

The element is checked with the same multimeter, but switched to “ohmmeter” mode. We first connect the probes to terminals “A” and “B”, and then to “C” and “D”. With this measurement, the readings are 50-55 Ohms. Then we connect the probes to terminals “A” and “C”, and then to “B” and “D”. During this test, the ohmmeter shows infinity.

If the readings are correct, there is no break inside the sensor, and its incorrect operation is due to the needle getting jammed.

There is an alternative verification method that does not require the use of measuring instruments. This check is simple:

  1. Remove the sensor from the car.
  2. We connect the block with wires back to it.
  3. We power the on-board network (connect the battery).
  4. Holding the regulator in your hand, place your finger on it.
  5. We ask someone to turn on the ignition.

Signs of IAC malfunction

Unfortunately, the 2110 VAZ DXX is not equipped with a self-diagnosis system, so the “CHECK ENGINE” light signal will not indicate a malfunction. Loss of performance on the VAZ 2110, 2112 is determined by the following main features:

  • the engine “stalls”, for no apparent reason, at idle;
  • idle speed “floats”;
  • when a “cold” VAZ 2110, 2112 engine is started, there is no increased speed at all;
  • The engine stalls, namely, after turning off the gear while driving.

The symptoms completely coincide with the failure of the VAZ 2110 TPS, but in the case of this sensor the “CHECK ENGINE” indicator will light up.

Idle speed regulator VAZ-2110

On VAZ-2110 equipped with engines with an injection power system, the crankshaft speed of the power plant at idle is maintained by the XX (IAC) regulator.

The task of this element is to stabilize and maintain crankshaft speed at a given level under different conditions - abruptly releasing the gas pedal, creating a significant load on the on-board network (when the heater, headlights, etc. are turned on). A malfunction of the VAZ-2110 idle speed control does not affect the performance of the engine, but the lack of idle speed causes a number of inconveniences when operating the car.

How to remove IAC

If signs of malfunction characteristic of the IAC are detected, then it will need to be removed (first for inspection). On the VAZ 2110, this sensor, which is small in size (easily fits in the palm of your hand), is located in a seat on the throttle body (can be seen in the photo).

Removing the idle air control

If necessary, its dismantling is quite easy - it is secured with only two screws. In extremely rare cases, it is necessary to remove the entire VAZ 2110 throttle assembly.

Dismantling is carried out in the following sequence:

  1. The VAZ 2110 is placed on the handbrake;
  2. The negative terminal of the battery is disconnected;
  3. The wiring harness connected to the IAC is disconnected;
  4. Be sure to clean the connection between the sensor and the throttle body to prevent dirt and rust from getting into the hole;
  5. Unscrew the fastening screws holding the idle speed sensor of the VAZ 2110.

Replacement

Replacement is quick and easy, just follow the instructions below.

We remove the negative mark from the battery, since the work is carried out on the electrical equipment of the car

Remove the connector from the regulator and unscrew the two screws using a Phillips screwdriver

We take out the regulator and install a new one in the reverse order. Don't forget to install an O-ring between the IAC and remote control. It is recommended to lightly lubricate the ring with engine oil for easier installation into the throttle body.

We hope our article was useful to you.

Category: Sensors

How to check the sensor?

If you have a tester, checking is easy:

  1. Set the VAZ 2110 to the handbrake;
  2. Disconnect the IAC connector to check;
  3. Check the voltage of the VAZ 2110, 2112 sensor circuit, while connecting the “minus” to the engine, the “plus” to the removed block, namely to terminals A: D (marked on the block, you can see the diagrams);
  4. The ignition is turned on and the readings given by the idle speed regulator are checked, which should be about 12 V. The value will be less - most likely the battery is discharged. When there is no voltage, it is necessary to check the entire circuit, and then the electronic control unit. There are no malfunctions, which means the circuit is working - the IAC installed on VAZ 2112 engines and other modifications are checked;
  5. The tester terminals are connected to the block, the circuit is as follows - first to terminals A: B, then to C: D. The resistance should be within 53 Ohms;
  6. Next, pairs A: C, B: D are checked - in this case, the resistance on a working product will be infinitely large.

IAC diagram

When, as a result of these checks, the sensor reveals a discrepancy in the readings, it should be replaced. Also, the inoperative state of these VAZ 2110, 2112 engine sensors, in the unscrewed position, can be checked by attaching a block to them, then you need to turn on the ignition.

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When the power is connected to the working product, the rod with the needle will change position. No changes will occur on a broken sensor. If a breakdown of the idle air regulator is detected, of course, it must be repaired. But there is no need to rush to a car service center - you can do the repairs yourself, saving money and time. But first, in general, it is worth cleaning the IACs; often after this they return to “life”.

Replacement procedure

Replacement is carried out in the following order:

  1. We de-energize the on-board system by removing the negative terminal, which is located on the battery;
  2. Disconnect the block from the sensor. For a VAZ injector this happens by pressing a plastic latch;
  3. We unscrew two screws, and it is recommended to first unscrew the left fastener, then the right one;
  4. Now the regulator has been removed and there is no problem in replacing it with a new one;
  5. Before installation, it is advisable to spread oil on the sealing ring. See if there are even the slightest cracks on the ring, in which case it needs to be replaced;
  6. There is also no difficulty in the calibration procedure; the electronic relay will do everything. You just need to turn on the ignition for a few minutes and then turn it off. After this, the speed usually no longer fluctuates, and the car works without failures.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=4Ln1XJet2E8

IAC cleaning

It is recommended to wash and clean any non-working idle speed sensor on the VAZ 2110 to make sure it is faulty. The process is very simple and will not take much time. To do the job you need: carburetor cleaner, WD-40. The following actions are performed:

  1. The block is removed from the sensor;
  2. Apply any of the listed cleaning liquids to a regular cotton swab and carefully treat the contacts;
  3. Unscrew the screws securing the idle speed sensor;
  4. Remove the IAC from the seat;
  5. Inspect the idle speed sensor. If black dirt, oil, or IAC are detected, it is necessary to clean the entire throttle assembly. If not, spray WD-40 or cleaner onto the needle with a spring, thereby cleaning it. Dry the idle speed sensor VAZ 2110, 2112;
  6. Before reinstalling, measure the distance between the idle speed sensor housing and its needle, which on a working regulator is 23 mm.

When the IAC VAZ of the tenth family did not work normally, the guide needles wore out and the wire inside the housing broke. In these cases, the idle air regulator must be replaced.

On a VAZ 2110, the idle speed sensor is mounted in the reverse order of dismantling.

Lada 2115 2007, 81 l. With. - electrical and electronics

Comments 39

Participate in the discussion can only registered users.

If the reading is 49.5 is this normal?

It’s easier to roll back the throttle firmware and install it on all expensive sensors.

I had a problem with the crankshaft position adjuster sensor... it really ruined my life

Yeah, it's a bummer... So finally, all the sensors need to be shaken up)))

This is a question...if after changing gears the speed increases. — is this also RXX?

if you disconnect the air flow sensor...then the engine should work normally...otherwise it stalls without pressing the gas pedal

if it stalls, you must first check the IAC, then the MAF... The MAF does not affect the speed, I personally tried it

It's clear. Thanks, I'll try to remove and clean the throttle body today.

My speed fluctuates and stalls periodically...how can I determine the RRH or change the mass flow sensor...or maybe both.

If the speed fluctuates, it is most likely the TPS, try disconnecting the wiring from it, this sensor is located on the throttle assembly, if after disconnecting the speed stops floating, then 100% replace the TPS - throttle position sensor. If you google it on the Internet, there is a lot written about it. About Read the MAF check here www.drive2.ru/l/1750487/ If it stalls stupidly, then this is already an IAC - how to check it is also written above. I advise you to take the IAC and only with a metal tip. If you have any questions, write.

And if the speed can fluctuate and it stalls (but not immediately) at the same time, maybe it’s all going wrong?

If the speed fluctuates, it is most likely the TPS, try disconnecting the wiring from it, this sensor is located on the throttle assembly, if after disconnecting the speed stops floating, then 100% replace the TPS - throttle position sensor. If you google it on the Internet, there is a lot written about it. About Read the MAF check here www.drive2.ru/l/1750487/ If it stalls stupidly, then this is already an IAC - how to check it is also written above. I advise you to take the IAC and only with a metal tip. If you have any questions, write.

You don’t know. I measured the IAC, from the flange to the end of the needle it’s 30mm. Isn’t that normal?

Our price is 750 rubles original, cooperative 350))))

why so many things? The factory one costs 600 rubles (prices 2016)

780 .and washed it .helped

2110 From time to time it didn’t keep idle, it stalled or shook like a paralytic, it was especially infuriating in traffic jams. Trouble for no apparent reason also passed. I checked the IAC - 58 Ohm, everything is fine, no dirt, the needle moves. I replaced the old one (prudently not thrown away. 51 Ohm). Everything is gone. It became easier to get underway, believe it or not, but... even changing gears became easier.

I have January 5.1.1 and the chip (ABCD) is green-black, red-black, pink-black and pink. Voltage is present at terminals B and C. The IAC itself with 04 at the end.

And it works? I think that it doesn’t matter to the IAC windings where the + is supplied (electric/motor principle), as long as AB and CD coincide.

Yes it works. It was a long time ago, I don’t remember all the details. Somehow I’ll figure this topic out to the end and post the material on my site.

Preventive measures

In order not to encounter a complete malfunction of the regulator in the future, it is worth periodically carrying out the cleaning process described above. How often to carry out the cleaning process depends on how actively you use your vehicle. If the car is a work vehicle, it is recommended to check and clean the sensor once a year; if you use it only for yourself, once every two years will be enough. But, of course, do not forget about the signs of a part malfunction; if they appear, do not delay. This will help you avoid complete failure of the part and enjoy a high-quality ride. Together with you, we come to the conclusion that the part is unpretentious, simple in its functionality and use. Don’t forget: timely detection of a malfunction is the key to overall vehicle productivity. The full operation of the engine depends on the serviceability of each of its components, and if you neglect any part, including the idle speed sensor, this can lead to more labor-intensive repair processes and failure of the entire car.

Checking the idle speed sensor

Diagnosing the part is quite easy, but pay attention to a few points. The first problem may be removing the part; most manufacturers attach the XX sensor to screws, and in extreme cases they can be drilled out, but in some variations the part is mounted on varnish

If your regulator is secured with varnish, be careful not to forcefully remove it, as this may damage the intake part of the car. In your case, it would be correct to completely dismantle the throttle assembly and only then disconnect the IAC.

The easiest way to check is, of course, visual inspection.

During a visual inspection, the first thing you should pay attention to is whether the needle is dirty. Also pay attention to the condition of the contacts and the throttle valve itself.

If broken wires are found, they must be returned to their place. Solder them and, to avoid corrosion, treat them with varnish.

It would be appropriate, if possible, to check the IAC with a multimeter or a homemade tester. You can check the resistance with a multimeter, and use a homemade tester (you can make one from a mobile phone charger) to check the stroke of the regulator rod.

If you find that the motor is damaged, the rod is completely worn out, or the cone needle is worn out, the part will need to be replaced. Don’t be too upset about this, the cost of the part will only be about 1000 rubles.

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