In the gas distribution system, the belt is of particular importance. It is he who is responsible for the possibility of connecting the crankshaft and camshaft. In addition, without this drive, synchronous operation of the pistons in the cylinders and the intake/exhaust valves is impossible. The timing belt turns the camshaft pulley exactly half a revolution of the crankshaft pulley.
Quality and reliability are especially important in engines where the piston and valve group are a single unit, for example, like Kalina’s. Why should every car owner know how to change the timing belt on Kalina? The valves and pistons are located in the same block, but thanks to the belt they do not touch. Accordingly, when they break, the pistons hit the valves, which leads to expensive engine repairs.
Replacing the timing belt on a 16 valve engine
To change the belt in the drive of VAZ-21126, VAZ-21127 engines, no special conditions are required. You will need sockets for “10”, “15”, “17”, the fifth hexagon number, and a powerful screwdriver with a flat blade. The cylinder head of these engines has 16 valves, which means there will also be two camshafts.
The replacement can be done something like this:
- Open the engine compartment hood and disconnect the terminals from the battery.
- Using a hexagon number 5, unscrew 5 bolts of the upper protective timing cover and 2 screws of the lower protection.
- Rotate the head to “17” by the bolt on the crankshaft pulley to set the timing mechanism to the TDC position of the first cylinder. In this case, the marks not only on the crankshaft and camshaft pulleys, but also on the flywheel and the gearbox housing must match.
- Next, use a screwdriver to stop the crankshaft from turning by inserting its blade between the teeth of the flywheel ring and the gearbox housing.
Causes of breakage and consequences
There are several factors why a part fails. Here are just the main ones.
Factors |
Why is this happening
It is also important to change parts on time. The consequences of untimely replacement may vary. If the timing belt breaks on a Kalina with an 8-valve engine, the valves do not meet the pistons, which means the consequences are not as catastrophic as when the belt breaks on an internal combustion engine with 16 valves.
How does the replacement take place?
The process of replacing the timing belt on a Lada Kalina with 16 and 8 valves follows a similar scenario, but there are some differences, so we will consider each separately.
Required Tools
To replace we will need:
- a set of keys;
- screwdriver;
- tension key.
Stages of work
The process itself is not complicated, and after reading the instructions we offer, you will be able to cope with it without much difficulty and it will not take much time. Let’s say right away that to replace it it is better to purchase the original kit, although it costs more. But in any case, whichever case you choose, follow the recommendations given in this article. It is better to change with an assistant because some work will be difficult for one person.
On 8 valve
- First of all, we remove the plastic protection; to do this, you need to unscrew three bolts.
- Remove the front wheel on the right. This is necessary in order to gain access to the shield that protects the power unit.
- After unscrewing the two screws, pull the shield down to gain access to the pulley, which is located on the crankshaft.
We pull back and secure the shield. Next, you need to rotate the crankshaft so that the shaft stars align with the marks.
The marks must be aligned. To unscrew the flywheel, lock the crankshaft. On the side where the clutch is located, there is a small gap on the engine through which you can see the flywheel. We remove the rubber band and lock it with a screwdriver. You may need outside help for this.
Window closed with rubber band
- Next, remove the alternator belt.
- We unscrew the tension roller until the timing belt loosens.
- We remove it, but the gears should not move out of place.
- The new one is pulled onto the camshaft gear on the right. Don't forget about the tags. Then you need to pass it through the roller and then pull it onto the pump.
- The tension should be such that the belt can only turn 90 degrees.
- Having turned the crankshaft, we look to see if the marks are off. If this happens, the work done will have to be repeated.
- Assembly work is carried out in the reverse order of disassembly.
On 16 valve
- We remove the cover that is located on top and covers the timing belt of Kalina with a 16 cl engine.
- We dismantle the wheel located on the right front.
Wheel removal key
Aligning marks
Installation diagram
Do not lose sight of the fact that the mark on the crankshaft pulley should be opposite the tide on the oil pump housing.
As you can see, there is nothing complicated and we hope that this article helped you understand all the intricacies of this process. You can now independently determine which belt is best for your car, how to change it correctly and how much you can save on it.
Article number and price of the video for Lada Kalina
An integral operation of selecting a belt is also selecting a timing pulley. As in the first option, there is an original and several analogues that can be used. Let's look at the article numbers and prices for the timing pulley Lada Kalina 8 valves:
- The original catalog number of the timing belt roller of the 8-valve Lada Kalina is: 21126-1006135. The average cost of this part in the Russian Federation is 700 rubles.
- There are quite a lot of analogues of the original timing pulley, which are successfully certified for use on a car and differ only in quality and service life. Let's consider which timing pulley can be installed instead of the original one on a Kalina with 8 valves:
Table indicating manufacturers, part numbers and prices for a non-original timing pulley
Manufacturer's name | Catalog number | Average price in the Russian Federation in rubles |
Master-sport | 21126-1006135-ST-PCS-MS | 580 |
QML | BT1006 | 650 |
Pilenga | PT-P1571 | 670 |
Torque | KR5016 | 680 |
Caffaro | 320-99 | 720 |
Trialli | CM172 | 735 |
Optimal | 0-N2044 | 750 |
LYNXauto | PB-3012 | 1080 |
Gates | T42150 | 1300 |
Dayco | ATB2543 | 1450 |
Ina | 532060410 | 1470 |
SNR | GE372.00 | 1500 |
Ruville | 57207 | 1550 |
Coram | C834 | 1850 |
Outlog | RT1663 | 2000 |
This is a Chinese video, the quality is not very good, it quickly became noisy
A fairly large selection of timing rollers is available to the owner of the 8-valve Lada Kalina. It is worth noting that most of the products from the table have high quality workmanship and also have a service life of about 40,000 km.
Choosing a timing repair kit for Lada Kalina
The quality of the belt and roller is very important, since the smooth operation of the engine depends on it. The issue should be approached with all responsibility. On the other hand, this is a consumable item, which means you still have to change it.
The Lada Kalina is equipped with a timing belt with number 21126-1006040 from the factory. The original is considered one of the best and is highly reliable, on average it lasts for 50,000 kilometers. The cost varies depending on the region: 1,000–1,500 rubles. There are a large number of analogues on the modern market, which are usually cheaper.
But there are also more expensive examples. The following brands became the most popular:
- Gates (on average about 2 thousand rubles);
- LUZAR (2,000 rubles);
- Bosch (1,500–1,800 rubles);
- Pilenga (tensioner roller and belt on average 3,000 rubles);
- Trialli (set, about 3,500 rubles).
The most affordable analogues are considered to be belts from manufacturers such as Master-Sport, Hofer and some others. On average, their cost does not exceed 1 thousand rubles. It is also equally important to choose a high-quality tensioner roller, since belts are usually changed together with them in pairs. There is also a lot of variety here.
The original roller installed from the factory has a catalog number 21126-1006135.
The average price, depending on the region, is no more than 700 rubles. The market for analogues is much more diverse, and accordingly, their prices vary from 400 to 2,000 rubles. More often than others, car enthusiasts choose brands such as Gates, Pilenga, Trialli, Master-sport and others. On average, their service life is about 50,000 kilometers +/- 5,000, it all depends on the quality.
Video about setting marks on Kalina's 8-valve valve
When performing all work, do not close the hood and start the engine. If everything is installed correctly, then there should be no extraneous noise or creaks in the operation of the motor. With a well-tensioned drive, the engine should not move in “waves”, that is, regardless of the speed, the engine should not deviate from stable operation. If the belt is tensioned too much, a peculiar “hum” from the tension roller may be observed. If this happens, loosen the roller and fix everything again. Upon completion of all work, reinstall the belt and engine cover.
Timing belt tension on Kalina
This Lada has two types of engines. On a 16-valve internal combustion engine, an automatic timing belt tensioner is used, and on an engine with 8 valves, a tensioner roller is installed. In the case of a roller, the tension should be checked every 10-15 thousand kilometers and replaced after 75,000 kilometers.
On a 16-valve engine, you do not need to tighten it yourself; there is an automatic mechanism for this. The belt in such motors lasts longer. But, on the other hand, it is possible that the tensioner may fail or oil may get onto the teeth due to a faulty crankshaft oil seal. Breakage or wear of its teeth will lead to disruption of the gas distribution mechanism and subsequent repair of the internal combustion engine. Therefore, you should not rely only on the automatic mechanism and periodically check the wear status of the part during maintenance.
To carry out the procedure for tensioning the timing belt on a drive with a tensioner pulley, you will need a special wrench. The algorithm of actions is as follows.
- Using a 10mm wrench, unscrew the bolts securing the drive cover, lift it up and remove it.
- Rotate the timing drive mechanism by the camshaft pulley mounting nut, thereby assessing the degree of belt wear. There should be no oil stains, cracks, delaminations on the surface of the belt, and the teeth should not be worn out.
- At the middle level (between the camshaft and crankshaft pulleys), you should turn the belt 90 degrees to the right and left, without applying significant force. If the force is not enough to turn the belt 90 degrees, it means it is too tight and needs to be loosened. Accordingly, if the belt turns to a larger angle, it should be tightened.
To adjust the tension, you will need to cool the engine and use a 17mm spanner to loosen the tensioner roller fastener. Next, you will need a special key with which you need to turn the roller to the right or left (to tighten or loosen), after which, holding the key in the desired position, tighten the roller fastening nut. After this, the tension level is assessed again. If necessary, the procedure is repeated. If the belt is tensioned as required, you can put on the protective cover and secure it with three fastener bolts.
For a 16-valve engine equipped with an automatic tensioning mechanism, a similar procedure is not provided.
What is a timing belt
Of course, the vast majority of motorists are aware that there is a timing belt in the car, what it is needed for and what the abbreviation means. If you are not already aware of this issue, this omission needs to be corrected immediately, filling the gap in the knowledge base of any driver. Knowing what a timing belt is in a car and when to replace it is the responsibility of every vehicle owner.
The timing belt is a gas distribution mechanism, which is an internal combustion engine device, whose purpose is to control the supply of the air-fuel mixture, and the dosing procedure is performed at certain time intervals.
The belt, made of high-quality reinforced rubber, is part of the gas distribution structure. It has an important role in ensuring synchronous operation of the crankshaft and camshaft. Thus, the timing belt determines the movement of the mechanism components and is a direct participant in the procedure for supplying fuel and exiting combustion products.
The coordinated functioning of the mechanism parts also determines the optimal operation of the vehicle’s power unit. The condition of the device affects the serviceability of the entire mechanism, and its replacement is strictly regulated by the automaker; a description is included in the vehicle’s operating instructions.
If during the period of car warranty service you don’t have to worry about the quality of the timing belt, especially since the manufacturer supplies the original part, then in the future, when purchasing a replacement part, you need to be especially careful and not try to save money by purchasing a low-quality product, because the functioning of the engine depends on it.
There are symbols on the timing belt, let's look at examples of translation of the decoding:
- 136-25.4 HNBR, where 136 is the number of teeth, 25.4 is the width of the belt, and HNBR is the material from which the part is made. This model is made of heat-resistant rubber that is resistant to ozone and chemicals, and also contains varying levels of acrylonitrile;
- ISO-58111x The first numbers (58) indicate the series of teeth, the next three indicate their number (111), the last value (19) indicates the width of the product in millimeters;
- 58127x3/4 HSN. The first digits are also the series number, the subsequent ones indicate the number of teeth, 3/4 is the width in inches (19 mm). The HSN marking stands for highly saturated nitrile, a modern belt material that is particularly durable.
Replacing the timing belt must be approached with all responsibility, since by ignoring the need for the procedure, you can bring a number of problems to your car and the quality of the purchase must be taken care of first of all. It is very important that the belt is original, so special attention should be paid to the manufacturer.
On some Japanese car models, the timing system is driven by a chain. If so, then there is no need to worry that the replacement date may be missed; the chain is replaced after 200,000-250,000 km. Well, the usual timing belt is most often replaced at each scheduled maintenance.
Checking the timing belt with automatic tensioner
1. We prepare the car for work.
2. Using a 5 mm hex key, unscrew the four bolts securing the front upper timing belt cover.
3. Remove the cover from the engine
4. Rotating the crankshaft (by the pulley bolt
or behind the flywheel ring gear, through the inspection hole in the clutch housing), we check the condition of the belt by external inspection. Make sure that the marks on the tensioner match.
The belt must be clean - without dirt or oil on its surface.
It is necessary to replace a belt with tears, cracks, delaminations, cut or worn teeth, abrasions to the cord, or oily ones. Oil leaks should be eliminated as soon as possible.
5. After inspection, install the cover.
see also
Comments 28
www.drive2.ru/l/8981345/?page=0#a163962325 On the K-1 I replaced the belt, the roller and the pump, mileage 52,000, and because of the pump I changed it, it started to crunch and “pee”, although the belt and roller are still there something on the shelf.
I have already replaced the belt with the roller with 59000, I will change the pump later
At 45 thousand they did both valve adjustment and inspection (they had to according to the maintenance regulations). After the warranty expires, I don’t go to the officials, because... not satisfied with the quality of their work, price and attitude towards the client. That's actually why I'm asking :)
Don’t forget that the imported belt is ten times better quality than the previous one. generations of this engine. The self-tensioning pulley is also sold complete with a belt and is also considered a very high-quality product. But the pump... In stores they sell either Lada-detail or Luzar. On board. I saw someone in magazines praising the DOLZ L121. I think it’s somewhat naive to just change everything, new parts can be worse than the original ones. It is necessary to carry out troubleshooting by removing the belt, checking it carefully for cracks, peeling, the pump for jamming, play, squeaks and tension similarly. And then you can bring a candle to church))))
I don’t understand...WHY is this belt better than BRT? Everyone says high-quality, high-quality, high-quality. What is its quality?
It is clear that taste and color are all relative, but by default, imported spare parts from more or less famous manufacturers are considered to be of higher quality than domestic ones, if only because they have a longer service life compared to ours. There are exceptions, of course.
I used BRT on the previous 21103 (1.5-16 cells) (the salesman in the store said take it and don’t bother). So I changed it for 50,000 - it looked like new. And the second and third time I used only BRT. I drove the last one 70,000 and sold the car.
and on this gates supposedly 120 is stated, that’s the difference
I don’t know how much BRT claims.
I used BRT on the previous 21103 (1.5-16 cells) (the salesman in the store said take it and don’t bother). So I changed it for 50,000 - it looked like new. And the second and third time I used only BRT. I drove the last one 70,000 and sold the car.
GRT only for old ones for new ones 8 klp. he is not here
I don’t understand...WHY is this belt better than BRT? Everyone says high-quality, high-quality, high-quality. What is its quality?
There is no such thing even...
Don’t forget that the imported belt is ten times better quality than the previous one. generations of this engine. The self-tensioning pulley is also sold complete with a belt and is also considered a very high-quality product. But the pump... In stores they sell either Lada-detail or Luzar. On board. I saw someone in magazines praising the DOLZ L121. I think it’s somewhat naive to just change everything, new parts can be worse than the original ones. It is necessary to carry out troubleshooting by removing the belt, checking it carefully for cracks, peeling, the pump for jamming, play, squeaks and tension similarly. And then you can bring a candle to church))))
Whose link did you see?
There are cases of 20 and 50 and 60
on the nine it broke at 55t. km, on a 4-wheeler at 52t. km, but it didn’t matter there, valves and pistons do not meet.
Usually, potassium makers write that they change it closer to 60 t.km. And at about 50t.km maintenance they check the belt and rollers
On the old Kalina, I honestly wasn’t puzzled by this issue, partly due to the fact that the old engine 11183 was still there. I didn’t change the belt and the car was sold with a mileage of almost 80 thousand km. although it moved a little to the side from the block. They say that factory parts last the longest. And so far this is true. The mileage on the new Kalinas is still small, so I haven’t looked. but I think it’s still better not to risk it and change it when it’s supposed to. and if the factory belt is still alive, leave it in reserve. and you will be calmer too.
good question, I’m also puzzled by this question: to change, not to change!
The belt runs for quite a long time (it’s easy to check it from time to time). In the tension roller, the problem is in the lubrication (at 50 thousand km it is almost dry, if you haven’t changed the lubrication, then change the bearing; it is already rustling and the automatic machine may not work). With fanfare, a dark story, no one knows how long it comes out. Two options: change every 50 thousand km (selecting high-quality components), or trust in the reliability of the plant and constantly listen and look into the timing belt (if extraneous noise occurs, identify the source and change).
Video
It’s rare that a car owner has not heard of the devastating consequences of a broken timing belt. The valves “fall” into the cylinders and break the pistons at top dead center. Sometimes, after this breakdown, the engine cannot be restored, or the repair involves such high costs that it is simply abandoned in favor of a contract engine. How often or after how many kilometers the timing belt needs to be changed, as well as how to evaluate its safe life, we will figure it out together with the specialists of the Auto-Master service.
Content:
Cost of replacement work
Prices for Lada Kalina timing belts in our auto stores vary from 400 to 1000 rubles per unit. If you also need to replace the tension roller, be prepared to shell out another 400-600 rubles.
The cost of replacing a belt is 500-800 rubles. With a roller – up to 1000 rubles.
When buying a timing belt, it is better to give preference to a branded VAZ product. If this is not possible, you can purchase an analogue produced by a well-known brand. Below are samples showing the catalog numbers of the original belt and worthy imported analogues.
MANUFACTURER | CATALOG NUMBER OF SPARE PARTS |
TIMING BELT VAZ 2110 (8 VALVES) | |
AVTOVAZ | 2112-1006040 |
BOSCH | 1987949559 |
CONTI | CT996 |
CONTITECH | CT 996 |
GOODYEAR | G1535 |
GATES | 5539 |
FLENNOR | 4428 |
LUZAR | LTB0112 |
LYNX | 136CL254 |
PILENGA | CTP0996 |
OPTIBELT | ZRK1538 |
TENSION ROLLER | |
AVTOVAZ | 21120-100612000 |
Belt replacement
Required tools and tools:
- open-end wrench or ratchet head 10;
- open-end wrench 17;
- key to 13;
- Large slotted screwdriver;
- special key for rotating the tension roller;
- jack;
- balloon wrench.
If the belt is not broken, we start by setting the gas distribution mechanism settings according to the marks.
1. Place the car on a flat surface, engage the gear, and jack up the right front wheel.
2. Raise the hood, use a 10 mm wrench or socket to unscrew the 3 bolts securing the timing belt casing.
3.Using a 13mm wrench, unscrew the generator belt tensioner nut. We remove the belt.
4. Visually look for a mark on the camshaft sprocket. It looks like a rectangular protrusion on the inside edge of the gear.
5. Turn off the gear and, turning the front right wheel with your hands, ensure that this mark coincides with the upper protrusion of the casing mounting plate.
6. Using a screwdriver, pry off the rubber plug on the gearbox housing (behind the 4th cylinder) and open it. There is a flywheel under it. There is also a mark on its gear, which should coincide with the triangular protrusion located on the left.
7. If the gas distribution phases are set correctly, then in this position both the mark on the timing sprocket and the mark on the flywheel will coincide with the pointers. If the marks do not match, you need to release the tension roller, remove the belt from the timing sprocket and, by turning the crankshaft pulley, make sure they match. We carry out the same procedure if the belt has been broken.
8.Fix the position of the flywheel by locking it through the hole for the plug with a screwdriver. Unscrew the tension roller if it has not yet been relaxed.
9.Remove the front right wheel.
10.To remove the old belt and install a new one, you need to dismantle the generator drive pulley. After making sure that the flywheel is securely locked, use a 17mm wrench to unscrew the bolt securing this pulley. Let's take it off. We remove the generator belt to the side.
11.Remove the old belt from the crankshaft pulley and throw it away.
12. Install the new belt in the reverse order, checking the position of the marks.
13. We tighten it by rotating the tension roller with a special key to the right and left. A timing belt is considered ideally tensioned if its plane can be rotated horizontally by a maximum of 90 degrees (1.5-2 kgf) in the middle between the timing sprocket and the crankshaft pulley.
14.Clamp the tension roller in this position.
15.Remove the screwdriver from the flywheel and close the plug. We are not installing the belt cover yet.
On Kalina-2 with a prioro engine, is it customary to change the timing belt? When?
I heard something out of the corner of my ear that the belt seems to last for the entire service life. And I heard something like: what are you, a fool? it should be changed at 75, or better yet at 60.
I can’t look in the service book, because I lost it somewhere.
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