What to do if the brake lights on a VAZ-2110 do not light up

On the VAZ 2110, as on other car models, brake lights play an important function in warning other road users about braking or reducing speed. If the brake lights on a VAZ 2110 are not lit, this reduces the safety of using the car and can lead to an emergency. In this case, you should not immediately take the car to a workshop, because most often you can find the cause of such a breakdown and fix it yourself. To cope with such a problem on your own, it is important to understand how the brake lights on the VAZ 2110 work.

Scheme of operation of stop lights

The stops on VAZ cars work according to the same, fairly simple scheme. The main element of this unit is the sensor responsible for turning on the brake light. When the sensor is triggered, the brake lights in the rear of the car light up. When braking stops, the lamp stops lighting. If the brake lights on a VAZ 2110 do not light up, the first thing you need to do is make sure that the lamps have not burned out. The brake light circuit works as follows: voltage from the battery is sent to the brake switch, which, when closed, allows current to flow through the filament of the lamps connected to each other. Voltage is then sent to the negative of the battery, allowing the lights to light up.

On most older VAZ cars, the brake light sensor is located in the area of ​​the brake system line. In this case, the process of closing the contacts was carried out by increasing the air or liquid pressure in the system. The main disadvantage of this connection was that the brake lights came on along with the brake pads when the car began to slow down. On modern models, such as the VAZ 2110, the stop sensor is connected to the brake pedal. This made it possible to turn on the lamp exactly at the moment the driver presses the brake. This design connects the brake lights at the moment the brake pedal free travel is selected, before deceleration begins.

Reasons for a non-working brake light

If the brake light on a VAZ 2110 does not light up, the first thing you need to do is check whether the fuse responsible for protecting the signal lamp circuit has blown. Then we take a test lamp and check whether there is power to the stop sensor. If during such a test the indicator lamp does not light up, it means that the fuse has failed or the wire leading to the brake light switch from the fuse has broken. When performing this test, it is important to ensure that power is being supplied to and routed from the fuse. If necessary, we replace broken or burnt wires and eliminate broken contacts in the connecting circuit leading to the sensor or fuse. If power is present at one of the terminals, you can remove both wires and connect them with copper wire. In this case, the warning lights will light up.

If the lamps light up during the test, then we can talk about a sensor malfunction. This spare part cannot be repaired, so it must be replaced. If it turns out that the sensor is working, then you need to look for a break in the wiring or a malfunction of the lamps. At the same time, we take a test lamp and check whether there is power at the plug responsible for the operation of the rear lights. If power is supplied, it is most likely that the brake lights on the VAZ 2110 do not work due to faulty lamps. If there is no power, you need to find an open circuit or poor contact in the system between the stop switch and the warning light. It happens that a new fuse is installed, but it immediately blows. In this case, we can talk about the presence of a short circuit that needs to be found and eliminated.

Other causes of rear light malfunctions

But it may also happen that the reverse light on the VAZ 2110 does not light up, and the sensor is not the reason for this.
Then it might be a nutritional issue. It also needs to be checked. When turned on, no power is supplied, which means you should look for a break in the wiring. Check the area where the fuse is connected to the sensor and the section where the sensor is connected to the lamp. When reverse gear is engaged on a VAZ 2110, the white light bulbs should light up at the same time.

Their purpose is to perform the following functions:

1. parking is much more convenient with lit lights;
2. burning lights give pedestrians an indication that the car is about to reverse;
3. Reversing lights are used to prevent emergency situations.

If a problem arises in which the reverse lights do not turn on, you can try to fix the problem yourself, or contact a car service center.

The problem can be resolved on your own, since the reasons for this, as a rule, are the following situations:

• The light bulb just burned out. In this case, it must be replaced. But before replacing, it is recommended to check the integrity of the wiring in order to eliminate the possibility of a situation in which a short circuit occurs.
• The reason may also be that there is no voltage on the flashlight board.
• The fuse that is installed to protect against short circuit has blown. It just needs to be changed. The fuse doesn't just blow. This means that this is due to some problem in the circuit. To do this, you need to “ring” each section and determine the location of the problem.
• Contacts may burn. Because of this, the light bulb will stop lighting. In this case, the burnt contacts should be cleaned.
• It is possible that the electrical cable is damaged. A malfunction can be detected by visual inspection or instrumentally using a multimeter.
• If the car is operated for a long time in conditions of high humidity, this can lead to oxidation of the contacts. As a result, the reversing lights will no longer work normally.
• The reason may lie in the incorrect operation of the gearbox mechanism. It is this mechanism that should lead to the inclusion of the rear lights.
• The malfunction may be caused by a broken reverse sensor. It is not at all necessary to take your car for professional diagnostics. You can check its performance yourself. To do this, the sensor must be removed and the ends of the wires connected to each other. If the light starts to light up, then the problem is in the sensor.

Malfunction of the lights themselves

If during the check from the fuse box to the limit switch no problems are found, then you should move on. Now you should test the wiring from the second limit switch connector to the stop connectors with a tester. If it is working, then you need to check the board. The printed circuit board on which the taillights are mounted is not ideal, and is one of the biggest problems of all VAZ cars.

Its tracks often burn out or peel off, causing the lights to stop working. This problem can be solved in two ways - either re-solder the tracks (which can be done with a regular soldering iron, although not in road conditions) or replace the board with a new one (most motorists choose the second option).

Tail lights of VAZ 2114

Another reason why the VAZ 2114 brake lights do not work may be oxidation of the lamp sockets. In order to eliminate this problem, it is enough to clean all contacts from oxides that have appeared on them.

This is best done in one of the following ways:

• small grit sandpaper;
• WD-40 solution;
• kerosene;
• purified gasoline (“galosh”).

You should absolutely not use gasoline or other solvents to clean contacts.

Light bulb in the foot of a VAZ 2114

The last option for faulty stops is the light bulbs themselves. It makes no sense to give any detailed advice here - you just need to replace the burnt out light bulbs with new ones.

By following all the tips listed above, the car enthusiast gets the opportunity to check the entire electrical circuit of the brake lights, starting from the fuse box and ending with the bulbs in the lamps. Thanks to this, the guarantee that the fault will be accurately detected and eliminated is 100%.

Detailed diagrams of important components of the VAZ 2110 car

If you need an exact diagram of any component of your car, then I recommend that you familiarize yourself with these diagrams.

Generator system connection diagram

Diagram of the ignition system on the VAZ 2110

Contactless ignition system diagram

Turning on the rear window wiper and washer

Diagram of the automatic heater control system

The rear lights on the VAZ 2110 do not light up, what could be the problem? In this article we will look at the main types of faults in the electrical equipment of this car, and at the same time we will learn how to replace the rear marker lamps of a VAZ 2110.

Circuits protected by additional fuses (all fuses on A) on the VAZ-2110:

Additional fuses: 1 – ignition module, controller; 2 – canister purge valve, vehicle speed sensor, oxygen (heating) sensor, air flow sensor; 3 – fuel pump relay, fuel pump, injectors.

Additional relays: 4 – electric fan relay; 5 – electric fuel pump relay; 6 – main relay (ignition relay).

There is a fog lamp fuse installed in the niche of the instrument panel behind the mounting block:

Diagram of injection VAZ 2110 16 valves

CLICK HERE (TO SEE THE VAZ 2110 ELECTRICAL WIRING DIAGRAM IN HIGH RESOLUTION)

Why VAZ-2112 headlights do not work and repairs

On VAZ-2112 model vehicles, left and right headlights are mounted on the front. This design combines both low and high beam. Manufacturers can be Bosch or Avtosvet, respectively, and the products have minor differences. However, the mounts are always located in the same places, which allows you to easily install headlights made in different factories. The light bulbs used are also absolutely identical. Their characteristic feature is the presence of only one filament coil. What to do if for some reason the headlights installed on the VAZ-2112 do not work? We'll talk about this further.

Standard version of the brake light operating diagram

Power is supplied to fuse F17 from the battery, then the current goes to limit switch contact 11, and then, if the limit switch is closed, a circuit is formed with the filament of lamps 7. But note: part of the circuit is relay K1, more precisely, its contacts 5 and 4.

Basic network diagram

If the brake lights do not light up, on the VAZ-2112, as on all Tens, check one fuse. It is called F17 and is located in the mounting block to the left of the driver.

Main mounting block

It is important to know: voltage is always present at one of the fuse terminals. Check it out!

A few words about the “serviceability relay”

The lamp health relay is called K1, and it is the largest in the mounting block. If you remove this relay, then when you press the pedal you can dial the voltage at terminal 5 (but not 4). Look at the diagram again, and it will become clear what we are talking about.

The largest relay in the block

All relay contacts are numbered. Check the voltage at the block terminals:

• 6 – “mass” potential;
• 2 – voltage “+12”, but only after turning on the ignition;
• 5 – “+12” by pressing the pedal;
• 4 – the terminal rings like a ground tap.

If the potential “0” is not generated at terminal “4,” it means that the lamp filaments are burnt out or there is a break in the wiring. Now consider something else: the ground potential has been detected, but the lamps do not light. This is where suspicions of a short circuit arise.

CIRCUIT BREAKERS

To protect against voltage surges and other influences on the electrical component, a side light fuse is also included in the circuit along with the light bulbs and the button. At the moment of overvoltage, it burns out, but due to this everything else in the circuit remains intact. It is usually located in the engine compartment, where in the VAZ 2114 there is a place for a whole fuse block for all electrical networks in the car.

Since all of them have markings, we can easily find the parts that we need: F10 is responsible for the safety of the lamps on the left side of the car, and F11 for the right. Thus, in the event of a failure of one half, for example, when the rear left indicator does not light up, the right side of the car will remain operational and will do its job. And if the size fuse blows, then replacing it is, in principle, quite simple - this is considered the simplest malfunction of this kind.

Diagram and location of fuses on the VAZ 2114 (also on 2113 and 2115)

How to troubleshoot?

The most common reasons that the brake light on the VAZ 2114 does not work are the following factors:

1. Fuse failure.
2. Broken wires in one of the sections of the circuit.
3. Limit switch faulty.
4. Bulbs burn out.
5. Oxidation of contacts in lamp sockets.
6. Damage to the contact board.

The most common and at the same time the most easily removable of the above reasons is a blown fuse. To identify such a malfunction, you need to examine the fuse box. A 10-amp fuse F3 is responsible for the brake lights, which also protects the ignition switch, computer and interior lighting.

Malfunctions in the operation of the latter may also indicate a malfunction of the stop fuse (and in this case, troubleshooting should begin with the block). If it turns out that the fuse has blown, then you should replace it with a new, similar one.

A new fuse installed in place of a failed one must be designed for exactly the same maximum current. If it is less, the fuses will blow more often, and if it is more, the protected device itself may burn out.

The problem may also be in the fuse block itself - sometimes the tracks on its printed circuit boards burn out or the contact legs oxidize. In order to check its serviceability, it is enough to measure the voltage at the contacts of the newly installed fuse.

Another common reason why the brakes of the VAZ 2114 do not light up is a malfunction of the limit switch that turns on the signals. It is located on the brake pedal bracket and is always in working order, regardless of whether the car engine is turned on or not.

It works automatically when you press the pedal. In order to check its serviceability, it is enough to see whether the power supply is suitable for its contacts (on one of the contacts the presence of power must be constant). In addition, if you press the pedal and thus turn on the limit switch, you can measure the voltage at its connectors.

If there is no current at the switch contacts, you should check the wire going to the limit switch from the fuse box. If the test shows that the wire is faulty (there is a break), then it should be replaced with a new one and the test repeated.

Otherwise (if everything is in order with the wire), you should disconnect it (as well as the other wire suitable for the second connector) from the switch and connect directly. If after such an operation the brake light works, then the limit switch itself has failed and should be replaced.

You should purchase a new brake light limit switch that is exactly the same model as the failed one. Installing a different type of switch may result in incorrect signal operation.

Replacing the reverse switch

It is recommended to change the reverse sensor on an overpass by removing the engine armor. Disconnect the connector and unscrew the sensor using a 21 key. After removing the sensor, oil will run out of the hole, so prepare a new one in advance.

By the way, do you know how to improve the performance of the rear lights?

As you know, if any light fixtures malfunction, operating the vehicle is prohibited. And here there are two options: go to the nearest service station and pay a lot of money there, or try to fix the problem yourself. In this article, we will analyze the reasons for the reverse light “freezing” on the VAZ 2110 and try to fix the problem ourselves.

Rear brake lights of VAZ 2110 do not light up

Let's consider the causes and possible ways to eliminate problems with brake lights in a VAZ-2110 car. It is worth noting that solving this problem will only require knowledge, time and a little experience, so before contacting a service station, you can try to solve everything on your own.

Advantages of brake lights VAZ-2110

Unlike old VAZ models, where the sensor that turned on the brakes was closed from pressure, liquid or gas directly when the brake pads were activated, on the 2110 model the sensor is located on the brake pedal, and thus the lights come on at the slightest press on the pedal even before braking, giving road users a little advance warning.

Fuse blown

An equally common reason why headlights do not light up. The block where all the car fuses are grouped is open, their location is open and the search for what is needed is open. A burnt jumper is in most cases visible to the naked eye. The student will also be able to handle gluing the entire part together, so a trip to the service station may also be unnecessary in this case.

READ Fuse Box VAZ 2104 Old Model

By the way, if fuses blow with unenviable regularity, then there is a breakdown somewhere in the wiring. Either call the entire circuit yourself, or contact a professional electrician. Discrepancies with the wires threaten all sorts of troubles, even fire.

Wire problems:

And in a variety of places. You will need to check all the terminals at the connection to the relay and fuse box. They may spin poorly and fall out; may oxidize and current will not flow. In the first case, it is enough to tighten the clamping nuts, in the second. clean contacts.

You should also check the power button: very often the wire leading to it becomes oxidized or goes away. We can say that in domestic cars, first of all, you should be interested in the button itself, and only then go somewhere deeper.

The light in the VAZ-2110 interior does not work

Many owners of "ten" are faced with the fact that the interior lighting stops working. How to find a fault and return the light to the car?

To narrow down your search, let's divide the symptoms into several categories.

The interior light does not work when one door is opened

When the interior light does not respond to opening, say, the driver's door, try opening other doors. If there is no response to only one door, it is worth checking the limit switch installed on the rack. This is a button that is pressed when the door is closed, and when opened, it is pressed out and supplies “mass” to the lampshade. Limit switches, as such buttons are also called, often oxidize and may stop passing current. Another factor indicating a faulty limit switch is the absence of a sound signal from the on-board control system display unit. He “sees” open doors through the same limit switches.

Limit switch VAZ-2110.

To remove the limit switch from the rack, you need to remove the negative terminal from the battery, unscrew the screw that secures the limit switch in the rack and pull it out. It is necessary to disconnect the battery, because there is voltage at the end switch, and it is almost impossible to pull it out without hitting the body. Touching the body in this case is a short circuit.

After removing the limit switch from the stand, inspect its rear part where the moving contacts adjoin the body. The contact point is very small and over time becomes covered with a dark coating of oxides. Remove it with fine sandpaper and install the limit switch back. The light must appear.

If the light does not appear, then you should make sure there is voltage at the limit switch. This can be done with a multimeter or a test light. The current comes to the limit switch from the lampshade, and if there is no voltage, then there is a break between the limit switch and the lampshade. Another reason is a malfunction of the “mass” contact in the lamp itself.

In the case when voltage does arrive at the limit switch and its clean contacts are reliably closed, you need to check its seat on the rack. The “mass” is formed by a self-tapping screw that connects the end switch to the metal of the rack. If the screw or the hole for it is very rusty, then they should also be cleaned with improvised means. As an option, screw in a self-tapping screw with a slightly larger diameter.

The interior light does not respond to any door

When the interior light does not turn on when any door is opened, most often the problem is not in the limit switches, but in the power supply to the lamp. However, if the car is unfamiliar (for example, recently purchased), it is still necessary to check the limit switches on all racks. The previous owner could have started them so much that all four limit switches failed.

To remove the diffuser from the lampshade, you need to pry it off with a screwdriver.

The main reason for the lack of light in the cabin with such symptoms is the lamp itself and its power supply. Remove the lamp diffuser by carefully prying it from the side with a thin screwdriver. The plastic diffuser is held in place by two pins, one of which needs to be disengaged.

First of all, we check the light bulb - it may simply burn out. If the lamp is intact, close all the doors and check for voltage at all lamp contacts. One of them should have +12 Volts - this is the power line for the lampshade from the fuse box. When there is no voltage on any contact, check the fuse.

On the VAZ-2110, fuse F17 is responsible for the interior lighting. The same fuse protects the navigation light, the ignition switch illumination, and even the brake lights! Accordingly, if the navigation lighting was working for you, but now suddenly stopped along with the main lamp, it means that the fuse can be immediately replaced with a new one of the established rating. Fuses, as a rule, burn out for a reason, but due to the presence of a short circuit in the protected circuit. If the new fuse also blows soon after installation, then you need to contact an auto electrician or try to find the short circuit yourself.

Problems with interior lighting on a VAZ-2110 can also arise due to the BSK unit, which is connected to this system. The unit contains electronic components, so not everyone can diagnose it, and it rarely fails. However, if a malfunction is not found in other places, then it is worth checking this unit. It is also better to entrust this work to a specialist.

The interior light does not turn on permanently

To simply turn on the interior lighting in the “ten”, you need to press the diffuser of the lampshade, as if tilting it lengthwise. In this case, a moving contact moves inside the lampshade and comes into contact with another contact, which has a constant “mass”. Due to this, the light bulb begins to glow regardless of whether the doors are open or not.

The point of contact between these contacts is negligible and, over time, carbon deposits form on it. As a result, the lamp cannot be switched on in permanent mode. Remove carbon deposits with a thin screwdriver or your fingers. To access this contact, it is enough to also remove the lamp diffuser.

These are the most common reasons why the interior light on a VAZ-2110 may not work. In addition to them, there may be others, for example, broken wires or complex abnormal short circuits in the wiring. If it was not possible to return the light in the cabin using the above methods, it is still better to take the car to a specialist. Deeper work on troubleshooting interior lighting will require serious disassembly of the interior and strong knowledge of automotive electrics.

Main mounting block with fuses and relays

Diagram of the main mounting block of fuses and relays

Designations of fuses and relays of the mounting block Open cover of the mounting block Location of the mounting block in the machine

Relay

Circuit breakers

Wiring test for non-working brake lights (ground test)

Let's look at the basic diagram: the brake lights and the reversing lamps have a common ground pin. If contact with this pin is broken, the reverse lamps will not turn on. Well, brake lights too.

Connector for connecting “internal” lights

On the left side there is a connector through which the wiring goes to the fifth door. The connector has black and red wires. Check the voltages on them. Most often the ground on the black wire does not ring. But maybe the connector itself needs to be cleaned.

Usually, if the ground breaks, another pin is used - the one that is connected to the glass heating coil.

If the “plus” does not come to the red wire, we check the “frog”. It's simple here:

1. Disconnect the connector with two wires from the limit switch;
2. Using 17mm wrenches, loosen the two nuts: holding the lower nut, rotate the upper one;

Removing the frog brake

Signs of trouble

If the odometer suddenly refuses to work, and the speedometer works jerkily, or “lies” regarding speed and mileage, these are direct indications that the speed sensor or its drive is failing. It is also possible that there is a problem in the electrical circuit, the connector is failing, the pinout is mixed up, if the operation of this system has been interfered with, etc.

In addition, an indirect indication of a malfunction may be that the car stalls at idle (although there may be other reasons for this).

Naturally, if the speedometer begins to give deliberately false readings, and the “CHECK ENGINE” light is on on the dashboard, then the reason is the speed sensor.

Algorithm of actions when replacing a sensor

Changing it is not particularly difficult, but you need to do the following:

• To replace the car, you need to put it in a pit or drive it onto an overpass.
• If there is engine protection, it must be removed.
• You should first prepare some kind of container for the oil, since the moment the sensor is unscrewed, a certain part of the oil will leak out.
• Then you need to unscrew the wires that are connected to the sensor.
• The old sensor must be removed and a new device installed in its place.
• The oil that leaked out during the sensor replacement process must be added to the box.
• Next, the wires are connected. They must first be wiped dry to remove any oil that has got on them.
• Then you should start the car and check for light from the bulbs when reverse is engaged.

Such measures are one of the options for eliminating the problem in which the reverse lights of the VAZ 2110 do not light up.

Lamp replacement procedure

If not a VAZ 2112, then the light bulb may have burned out and needs to be replaced.

The replacement process consists of the following steps:

1. Disconnect the negative terminal on the battery. Replacing high and low beam lamps is the same, the only difference is the holes in which they are installed.
2. To access the element to be replaced, you need to remove the rubber plug.
3. Next, you should disconnect the wire block from the light bulb.
4. Then you need to find the retainer that holds the springs and carefully remove it from the grooves.
5. Now you can remove the light bulb from the socket.
6. The next step is to insert a new light bulb.
7. We assemble in the reverse order of removal.
8. To replace, you need to remove the casing by unscrewing 4 bolts. The lamp is unscrewed by grasping the socket and turning it counterclockwise until it stops.
9. Next, we insert a new light element and reassemble it.

Photo gallery “Replacing light bulbs on tenth models”

1. Remove the rubber plug.

Lower the latch down.

3. Remove the element from the socket.

After installing the lamps, you need to check their functionality.

Typical faults and their elimination

So, why might the dimensions not work on the VAZ 2110? There are several reasons, we will list them all:

1. The fuse responsible for powering the parking lamps has blown.
2. The power cable has broken.
3. There was a short circuit in the supply wire to the car body.
4. The control relay K1 has failed.
5. The light bulbs have burned out.
6. The exterior lighting switch is faulty.

Let's try to independently find the problem with the rear lights on the VAZ 2110 and fix it. First of all, let's analyze the situation. As mentioned above, fuse F11 is responsible for the starboard side, and F1 is responsible for the left side.

If only the rear lights do not light up, but the front ones work, then it is logical to assume that the fuses are in order. Otherwise (the side does not light up both front and rear), it makes sense to check the serviceability of the fuses in the mounting block. Where to find it will be described at the end of the article.

Now we need the so-called “control”, which is easy to assemble yourself. You need to take any indicator LED and a resistor with a resistance of 800 Ohms.

Let's start with the rear lights. We open the trunk and find two pockets in the upholstery at the level of the rear lighting fixtures that cover the lights. We bend them and get access to the power connector.

We bend the upholstery and see the back of the lights with the power connector

On the top and bottom of the lantern we find two latches, squeeze them and remove the board with the lamps from the lantern.

Carefully remove the power connector from the board. We connect one “control” probe to the body of the VAZ 2110 car in a place that can provide good electrical contact with the metal. We turn on the dimensions and measure the voltage at the connector socket to which the red (right side) or red-yellow wire (left side) goes.

If there is voltage, then the problem is in the flashlight. We remove the flexible board and carefully inspect the tracks - they often break due to vibration.

If everything is in order, then the reason is poor contact of the light bulb with the socket or its failure. We considered the case when there is voltage on the flashlight block. If it is not there, we continue the search.

We find the common power supply for the rear light devices (see diagram) and measure the voltage on it. The wires are still the same - red and yellow-red. If there is voltage, then the cause of the malfunction is a break in the wire going from this connector to the corresponding size. We inspect the harness, find a break, and fix it.

There is no tension - we move on. Now we need a mounting block. Where to find it will be described below. On the back of this block we find connector Ш2 and measure the voltage at the contacts to which the red and yellow-red wires go.

If it is, then the reason is a break in the wire running from the mounting block to the power supply block for the rear light devices. We inspect the harness, find it, eliminate it. No voltage? We measure the voltage at the same connector, the wire is black and white.

If it is there, then there are problems with the mounting block - fuses F1 and F11, control relay K1, broken tracks. We check the fuses, inspect the tracks, change the relay or install jumpers instead (see diagram).

Location of jumpers instead of control relay K1

If there is no voltage, the cause of the malfunction is a break in the black and white wire coming from the outdoor lighting switch to the mounting block, or the switch itself.

Important! Often the cause of a malfunction can be poor contact in the pads. When searching for a breakdown, it makes sense to disconnect them and make sure that the contacts are not oxidized and that the connectors are not filled with water or clogged with dirt.

Well, let’s talk separately about fuses that can burn out for two reasons:

1. Voltage surge in the on-board network.
2. Short circuit in power supply circuits.

In the first case, it is enough to replace the blown fuse with a device of the same rating (5A). In the second, the task becomes somewhat more complicated - after replacing the fuse, it burns out again. You will have to find a short circuit of the supply wires to the body, which is the negative power bus. We inspect the harnesses, find them, and remove them. Most often, insulation damage occurs where wires pass over and through the ribs of the body.

We turn on the brake lights forcibly

Relay K1 is successfully replaced with a pad with jumpers. In Fig. 1 just shows its diagram. If there is no such platform, you can temporarily close contacts 4-5. First, check everything mentioned above.

Have an observer watch what happens to the lamps. Press the pedal with one touch and release it. If the lamps do not turn on, check that the fuse is working properly. It's burned out, which means you're looking for a short circuit.

How to and how not to check the “0 Volt” potential

Let’s agree right away that we only work with a voltmeter. Voltage “+12” is caused by connecting one probe to ground. The presence of potential “zero” is checked differently: any of the probes is connected to a terminal with positive voltage, and then the second probe is connected to the wire being tested.

How to connect a voltmeter

Consider the error: one probe is connected to ground, the second to the terminal being tested, and vol. Here they conclude that there is a “mass” potential, but this is wrong! If the contact with ground is broken, the device will also show “0”. That is, the number “0” does not contain information.

Troubleshooting methods

What are the troubleshooting options:

1. If there is no backlight, you need to check the fuse and replace it if it is blown. All failed light bulbs must be replaced.
2. If the sensors are not working, you should check the integrity of the wiring with a multimeter or other tester to check the wiring. Damaged sections of wires also need to be replaced.
3. If the car interior is humid, over time this can lead to oxidation of the shield contacts. If such a malfunction occurs, the contacts must be cleaned or replaced.
4. If the problem lies precisely in the inoperability of the instrument cluster, then it is better to entrust the repair to specialists. It is possible that in the process you will have to resolder some elements, so if you do not have experience in carrying out such events, then contact an electrician (the video was shot by Alexey Lipatov).

Instructions for dismantling the tidy

So, how to remove and disassemble the device for its subsequent repair or replacement:

To begin, you will need to use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the two self-tapping screws located on the top trim. After this, you also need to unscrew two more bolts, they are located on the bottom of the lining. Then you need to carefully detach the cover and put it aside. Next, the connectors with wiring from the buttons located on the sides of the device are disconnected. This will allow you to move the trim to the side. Only after these steps can you unscrew the two bolts that secure the tidy to the center console

They are located at the ends. Then you need to carefully slide the combination back, parallel to disconnecting it from the metal plates installed on top. For complete dismantling, you also need to disconnect the two connectors with the wiring on the back of the panel. Having done this, you can remove the device from the mounting location and begin repairing or replacing it. The assembly procedure is carried out in reverse order.

Fault localization

Understanding the operating principle allows you to determine exactly why the brake lights may not light up:

• The fuse has blown. In the diagram, the fuses are marked with the letter F (from English - Fuse) and the serial number of the seat in the fuse block, for example, F3;
• poor contact at connectors;
• the light bulbs have burned out, but since the lights are connected in parallel, the likelihood that 2 lamps will burn out at once is extremely low;
• poor contact on the negative terminal of the lights. In this case, problems may begin not only with the feet, but also with the lighting of the remaining lamps in the lanterns;
• Damage to the negative track in the lamp board. From the total mass directly to the brake light lamp, the minus goes along a special path on the board. The path may collapse from water or mechanical impact;
• malfunction of the brake light switch, the so-called frog;
• broken wiring, oxidation of contacts.

Troubleshooting algorithm

To detect a fault in the electrical network, you will need a multimeter or a tester, which you can make yourself

Previously, we told you how to use a multimeter, so we won’t focus on that.

The sequence of searching for the cause of the breakdown:

• Check the fuse for the brake light circuit. The location diagram of the fuse links can be found in the repair and operating manual for your car; often the symbol of the protected circuits is located on the back of the cover covering the fuse mounting block. If the installed fuse of the required rating immediately blows, there is a short circuit (short circuit) in the circuit. Please note that the fuse can protect not only the feet, but also other circuits. Installing a fuse with an increased rating is fraught with the risk of a car fire;
• If oxidation is detected on the terminals, clean the contacts mechanically or use an aerosol contact cleaner.
• Having turned on the ignition first and holding the brake pedal depressed, check whether there is power on the positive wire that goes from the limit switch to the rear light connector. If there is power, there is a malfunction in the lights themselves;
• check whether the positive signal is coming from the mounting block to the limit switch. If + comes, but when you press the brake pedal it does not appear on the second terminal of the limit switch, then the problem is in the “frog”;
• If there is no + at the limit switch terminal, examine the circuit up to the mounting block. If the wire is intact and securely fastened in the connectors, then the problem is in the mounting block.

Tips for motorists

To figure out why the low and high beam headlights on a VAZ-2110 car do not work, you need to know what you need to pay attention to when trying to fix this problem. These cars are equipped with a headlight unit where the direction indicators are located, as well as two options for high and low beam headlights

These options differ in that in one case there are two single-filament lamps in the headlight unit (separately for the low beam headlights and separately for the high beam), and in the other case there is one, two-filament lamp. Therefore, there are two plugs in the electrical wiring for connecting the corresponding set of headlights.

Also involved in the operation of the electrical circuit of external lighting are: the external lighting switch, which is located in the cabin on the front panel; The headlight switch is located on the steering column; The low beam relay, the high beam relay and 4 fuses are located in the mounting block, and the high beam warning lamp is located on the instrument panel. When the high beams are turned on, all 4 filaments in the exterior lighting lamps should light up.

If one or more threads of the headlight lamps do not light, then, without getting out of the car, check the integrity of the fuses located in the mounting block under numbers F2, F3, F12, F13. Fuse F2 protects the low beam filament in the left headlight, F3 protects the high beam filament in the left headlight, F12 protects the low beam filament in the right headlight, F13 protects the high beam filament in the right headlight and the high beam indicator lamp.

VAZ 2114 (2113) stops do not work

There are few reasons why the brake lights of a VAZ 2114, 2113 car do not work. Let's list them all and try to figure out this problem ourselves.

The brake light bulb in the rear light is burnt out.

Most often, only one lamp burns out, but sometimes two lamps burn out.

In this case, you will have to replace the lamp with a new one or a known good one. The brake light uses a P21W lamp. Similar lamps for the turn signal, reverse light, and fog light are in the same rear light. They can be used to check the brake light by replacing it.

The contacts in the stop lamp socket have oxidized

In this case, a “break” occurs in the electrical circuit of the lamp. Most often, in this case, one brake light will not work, while the other will be on.

To restore contact, you need to turn the light bulb in the socket several times, or remove it and clean the oxidized contacts with fine-grained sandpaper.

The wiring block for the rear light is faulty (chip)

Either it is not securely fastened, or the contacts have oxidized. In any case, there will be an open circuit in the electrical circuit.

It is necessary to remove and put the block on the terminals of the rear light board several times to restore oxidized or unreliable contact. Subsequently, you can clean the pins on the board and the wire tips in the connecting block.

The fuse in the mounting block has blown

If the fuse is blown, both brake lamps in the taillights will not light.

The electrical circuit for turning on the brake lights of the VAZ 2114 (2113) is protected by fuse F3 (7.5A) in the fuse and relay mounting block. Check the integrity of the fuse. If faulty, replace with a new one. If the fuse is blown again, you should look for a short circuit in the circuit. According to the connection diagram shown below.

The track in the rear light board has crumbled

As a result, the electrical circuit will be broken (“open”), and the brake light lamp will not light up.

It is necessary to remove the rear light board where the brake light is not illuminated and inspect it for damage to the tracks. If you cannot visually detect the location of the damage, you should “ring” the tracks with a multimeter or test lamp. Wiring is soldered to the damaged track and the board continues to function. For details, see the article “Checking the rear light board.”

The rear light ground is missing

In this case, one or two lights may not work. The negative wire of the lamp of each of the rear lights comes out of its connecting block of wires (chips) and is attached to the body next to it. Over time, this connection oxidizes and the contact disappears (the circuit opens).

It is necessary to unscrew the nut securing the tip of the negative wire to the body. Clean the pin and tip. After which the contact will be restored and the stop will light up.

Brake light switch faulty

If it malfunctions, both brake lights will not light up. The switch is located under the brake pedal and, after pressing it, closes the contacts of the electric stop circuit.

We remove two wires from it - white-red and pink-red, and connect them together with a piece of wire. The brake lights are on fire - we change the sensor, no, then we check the electrical circuit. In addition, we check the adjustment of the free play of the brake pedal, since the position of the switch may be broken, it does not work completely and the contacts do not close.

“Open” in the electrical circuit of the stop lamps

The cause of the “break” may be insecurely fastened wire harness chips, oxidation of the contacts in them, breaking of the circuit wires or their damage as a result of repairs.

Using a multimeter in voltmeter mode, you can check the presence of voltage in various parts of the electrical circuit and determine the damaged area. The best way to do this is to use a diagram.

First of all, we check the presence of voltage at the tip of the red wire in the rear light blocks to understand the malfunction in the lights or circuit. Then we check for voltage at the tip of the white-red wire of the brake light switch under the brake pedal.

Notes and additions

Before carrying out a detailed diagnosis of a malfunction of the VAZ 2114, 2113 stops, it is necessary to visually inspect the accessible sections of the brake light switching circuit and its elements, and also remember whether any repairs have been carried out on the car, since often the solution to the problem is on the surface.

TWOKARBURATORS VK -More information on the topic in our VKontakte group

Other malfunctions affecting the illumination of the rear lights

The reversing lights may not light due to a faulty switch. To troubleshoot, you need to do the following:

• disconnect the connector;
• unscrew the switch with a 21 key;
• remove the switch and replace it with a new one.

A malfunction of the car's lights may be caused by problems with the hydraulic corrector. With its help, you can change the angle at which the headlights are tilted (this is due to the different load levels of the car). The hydraulic corrector consists of a master cylinder, which is mounted on the dashboard, actuator cylinders of the headlights and connection tubes. It cannot be disassembled and cannot be repaired. The assembly part should be replaced. Removal and installation of the main cylinder of the headlight hydraulic corrector occurs in stages:

• remove the handle and cylinder lining by prying it off with a screwdriver;
• unscrew the nut with a 22" head;
• remove the hydraulic corrector.

The trunk light may also need replacing. In this case you need:

• Disconnect the cable and terminal of the negative battery;
• disconnect the rear light from the block with wires by opening the trunk lid;
• press the fastener parts and remove the holder with lamps from the flashlight body;
• unfasten the lamp by unscrewing two nuts;
• loosen the three nuts that secure the decorative trim of the luggage lid and unscrew the nut closest to the lamp;
• lift the cover and remove the lamp;
• The new lamp is installed in the opposite order to that described above.

Many cars of the VAZ family, including the VAZ 2110, have a problem that affects safety and also causes a lot of trouble for drivers. The rear light board is a thin strip with conductive tracks. You have to change this tape quite often, and with it the burnt out light bulbs. You can use the option of inserting iron cartridges from the VAZ 2101. So, to do this, you need to:

• remove and disassemble the rear lights, removing the board and the tape from them;
• buy single cartridges for stops and dimensions;
• purchase copper wire with a cross-section of 2.5 mm, connectors, M3 bolts;
• mark the places for the cartridges and drill them, finishing the holes with a file;
• to modify the cartridges for clearance and brake lights, turn the tip terminals 180 degrees;
• completely cut out the cartridges from the turn signals;
• secure the cartridges to the plastic with bolts and nuts;
• connect all the cartridges, laying the pluses on the turn signal, stops and dimensions;
• extend the connector block and install everything on the car.

Installation process

Ready-made kits usually contain an installation diagram for the VAZ 2110. However, you should understand that adjustments may need to be made during the process.

Before starting installation work, you need to make sure there is space for them. If it is not provided for in your model, then you should think about it and decide on it yourself. It is recommended to do this through the front bumper.

The installation procedure is as follows:

1. At the very beginning we lay out the wiring for the fog lights. It is laid in the same way as the main wiring - along the wing, through the left side (under the hood).
2. After this, you need to supply power to the button, which will need to be placed on the dashboard. According to the standard, power is supplied from the fuse on the right dimensions. However, you can go the other way by connecting power to the light switch. You can take power from the output to the dimensions, but this method should be used last, since the battery may discharge prematurely if you forget to turn off the PTF.
3. We connect the plug together with the headlights. If the lights do not light up, then there was some error in the circuit. Each component of the network should be carefully checked. Often the problem is in the relay. To identify it, you need to make sure there is a click; if there is none, the relay should be completely changed.

It is quite simple to check that the headlights are set correctly and are working correctly: drive out onto the road and turn on the headlights.

If the light is directed slightly downward, but illuminates both the road surface and the side of the road equally well, everything is installed correctly.

What to do if the brake lights on a VAZ-2110 do not light up

Let's consider the causes and possible ways to eliminate problems with brake lights in a VAZ-2110 car. It is worth noting that solving this problem will only require knowledge, time and a little experience, so before contacting a service station, you can try to solve everything on your own.

Advantages of brake lights VAZ-2110

Unlike old VAZ models, where the sensor that turned on the brakes was closed from pressure, liquid or gas directly when the brake pads were activated, on the 2110 model the sensor is located on the brake pedal, and thus the lights come on at the slightest press on the pedal even before braking, giving road users a little advance warning.

Common problems with brake lights

There may be several reasons:

• blown fuse;
• faulty sensor;
• frayed or broken power cord.

The most common cause is a blown fuse responsible for protecting the signal light circuit. This fuse is located on a block built to the left of the steering column. This capacitor can withstand a current of 7.5 amperes, as evidenced by the inscription on it. It is located in the bottom row, fourth from the right edge.

If after replacing this circuit element the problem has not been resolved, other possible causes of failure should be considered.

The next troubleshooting point is to check the brake light sensor. To do this, you need to check whether voltage is entering and exiting the sensor. In this case, you need to use a control lamp. If the lamp does not light up when connected in front of the sensor, then the problem may be in the wires going to the sensor. If the lamp works before the sensor, but not after, then the problem lies in this part. You can also simply disconnect the input and output of the sensor and close it “directly” using a copper wire; if after these manipulations the lights in the brake lights light up, then the reason is precisely in the sensor. The sensor cannot be repaired, and the only way out is to replace this part with a new one.

Damaged wires may also be the cause, this will be especially noticeable if the just replaced fuse blows out - this means that the wire is frayed and there is a contact to ground. If the fuse blows without pressing the brake pedal, the wire before the sensor is damaged, and if it blows after pressing, the wire after the sensor is damaged. If there is no voltage, perhaps the wire is simply broken and does not short to ground. When troubleshooting, you should pay special attention to bends and possible areas of damage to the wires.

The next cause of problems is burnt-out LEDs in the brake light; there have been cases when both burned out at once. To replace the light bulbs, you need to remove the flashlight board by squeezing it from the sides and pulling it slightly towards you. Next, you should visually inspect the light bulbs; perhaps a visual inspection will already answer the question about the reason for the non-working brake light. After this, you should replace the old lamps with new ones.

Replacing the sensor

And now it’s time to consider the process of replacing the reverse sensor on various VAZ cars - from 2106 to 2115. Here are the instructions.

VAZ 2107

Let's start with the VAZ 2107 car. On VAZ Classic models everything is done exactly the same.

So:

First, we look for the sensor - it is located on the right side of the gearbox, if you look at the car as it moves. It is very difficult to make a mistake - this is the only part in the gearbox where two wires fit.

• If the wires are broken, then look for protruding contacts.
• If the wires are still on the sensor, then disconnect them.
• Next, you will need a 22 key. They need to unscrew the sensor. For convenience, it is better to take a longer wrench, since over time the sensor will stick to the crankcase.
• If you cannot unscrew the reverse sensor using a wrench (head), then you need to do this using a hammer and chisel.

• Then clean the seat from dirt using a knife.
• Remove the metal washer along with the dirt and replace it with a new one.
• Insert the sensor and tighten it using the same wrench until it stops.
• Next you need to put the wires back on. If necessary, crimp the contacts with pliers.
• And now, the replacement of the reverse sensor on the VAZ 2107 is completed!

Some people have a question about oil - whether it will leak or not. In this case it will not leak.

VAZ 2109

Let us remind you that this point applies to the Samara family as a whole, and not just to the VAZ 2109 car:

• Remove the protection from the car engine, if any.
• The location of the sensor on a VAZ 2108 and similar cars is slightly different than on a Classic, since the car has front-wheel drive.
• As the vehicle moves, the sensor is located on the left side.
• If the Classic had to be driven into a viewing hole, then cars with front-wheel drive can simply be lifted under the left front wheel using a jack.
• Again, the electrical wiring leads to the sensor.
• Remove the wires.
• To remove the sensor you will need an extended 22mm socket and a wrench.
• Using the head, remove the sensor.

• Prepare a container and, as soon as you unscrew the sensor, place it so that the oil does not spill on the floor.
• Insert the new sensor as quickly as possible.
• Screw it in by hand first and then tighten it using the same socket and ratchet.
• Connect the electrical wiring wires.
• Add the required amount of oil.

All is ready!

VAZ 2110

Cars of the VAZ 2110 family are equipped with engines from the VAZ 2108. Therefore, there is no point in writing the same information a second time. The answer is: VAZ 2110 replacement of the reverse sensor - see the information above.

VAZ 2114

Replacing the reverse sensor on a VAZ 2114 or cars of the Samara-2 family. Instructions:

• The essence of the process is the same.
• Raise the car using a jack.
• If necessary, remove the engine protection, but this may not even be necessary.
• Find the sensor; on new Samara-2 models it has a slightly different location, but finding it will also not be difficult.
• Disconnect the electrical wiring connector from the sensor.
• Using a 22mm wrench (it’s more convenient to use a head, but you can also use a wrench) unscrew the sensor.
• Before removing the sensor from the connector, place an oil container.

• Take out the old sensor and insert the new one along with a new ring.
• Screw the sensor using a wrench or socket.
• Wipe the gearbox housing from oil traces.
• Connect the wires.
• Top up the level to the required level.
• Reinstall the engine protection (if necessary).

So, the sensors have been changed. Now you can start checking their functionality.

Main reasons

Almost all problems related to automotive electrical systems can be solved in approximately the same way. You need to look for a potential or probable cause of malfunctions in the problematic object itself, or understand the system responsible for supplying power.

The situation is exactly the same with devices called brake lights. If they stop working, then you should look for the reason in one of the following points:

• There were problems with the fuse. It has oxidized or completely failed;
• There are faults in the lamps themselves or in one lamp, depending on how many stops are not working;
• The reason lies in the mechanism responsible for turning on the warning signal when the brake is applied;
• In the socket where the stop light is installed, the contacts have oxidized;
• More serious problems appeared related to damage to the wiring.

Based on the stated reasons why the feet may stop working, we can draw a completely objective conclusion. A truly serious malfunction concerns only wear or damage to the electrical wiring. Solving such a problem with your own hands is not always correct.

When the rear brake lights (left and right) or the additional central brake light repeater fail, do not rush to look for an auto electrician and offer him money to fix the problem.

There is a high probability that you will be able to do everything on your own. You will only need a standard set of tools for a motorist, as well as an understanding of how the lighting equipment in general works in your vehicle. Start with the most likely and fairly simple to solve possible malfunctions. Only if it turns out that the problem is bad or damaged electrical wiring, then it makes sense to visit a good car service center. It is better to entrust such tasks to experienced craftsmen. The main components for restoring the operation of brake lights on your own, you will need a spare working lamp, a control unit or a multimeter, as well as suitable tools.

It would be a good idea to study the owner's manual and understand how to get to the stops on your car.

Fuse

The first place to start is by searching for the mounting block in which the fuse responsible for the brake light is located.

Moreover, each machine has its own electrical circuit and specific location of fuses.

These can vary significantly depending on the vehicle, such as:

• VAZ 2110;
• VAZ 2107;
• Toyota Rav 4;
• Ford Fusion;
• VAZ 2114;
• VAZ 2115;
• Ford Focus;
• Chevrolet Lacetti;
• Lada Granta;
• Hyundai Accent;
• Renault Logan;
• Hyundai Solaris, etc.

A blown fuse quite often causes the failure of a number of equipment, including lighting devices. Check fuses visually and using a multimeter.

But there is a simple and effective way to check that takes a minimum of time. To do this, start the engine and hold down the horn button. This is not suitable for all car models, but on many vehicles the same fuse is often responsible for the sound signal and brake lights.

If this is not the case, we continue our search further.

Brake lamps and their sockets

Next, you should switch to the brake lights themselves. In most cars, to gain access to the feet, the luggage compartment is opened, the rear light bulb is removed, after which you can get to the feet themselves.

But the dismantling process may differ on different brands and models. Here, start from your car specifically; if necessary, look for hints in the operating manual. There are examples of cars where you can get to the brake light without removing the rear optics at all. You still have one main task ahead of you. It consists of gaining physical access to the faulty device, the lamp and the socket in which it is located. Not everyone can try to determine the problem by eye. Here it is better to take a different route.

The optimal solution would be to use new, similar lamps instead of potentially faulty ones. Therefore, you will have to buy a light bulb in advance and screw it in. If you can't find a lamp of a similar size, use a marker or turn signal repeater. Make sure these conditional controls work first.

When everything worked after installing the new lamps, you found the reason. You can confidently buy new matching stop lamps, replace old ones and reassemble the unit in reverse order.

It is extremely important to take into account one feature. Some modern cars have such a principle of operation of brake lights, in which when one car brake light fails for one reason or another, the second one automatically stops functioning. That is, sometimes checking one lamp does not give a result, since in fact the chances are 50/50 of replacing the burnt lamp, and not the one that simply turned off in tandem.

If replacing the light bulbs did not give anything, check the sockets themselves. It happens that they oxidize, this breaks contact, and the device does not turn on, although power is supplied to it. Also make sure that the socket is connected to the vehicle wiring. If necessary, the contacts are disconnected, cleaned with fine-grained sandpaper, and then returned to their place. Even during this procedure, it is recommended to apply a special lubricant to the contacts after cleaning.

One more thing. When checking the sockets, it is also worth taking new light bulbs. It happens that due to oxidation of the cartridge, the lighting device itself fails. That is, in fact, 2 malfunctions occur simultaneously.

Problems with the switch

The brake light on a car lights up the moment the driver presses the brake pedal with his foot while sitting behind the wheel. When pressed in this way, the force is transferred to a special mechanism. It is popularly called a frog. It is also a limit switch and it is also a classic brake light switch.

There are 3 main reasons why a frog or limit switch may not work:

• contacts have oxidized;
• carbon deposits appeared;
• corrosion has formed.

Despite the slightly different processes, the essence of the problem is the same. It can be eliminated by stripping the frog, or by replacing the stop switch.

If none of the options are suitable, there is a high probability that the problem lies in damage to the vehicle's electrical wiring. Here it’s up to you to decide whether to try to resolve the issue on your own, or seek help from qualified specialists.

Considering the complexity of the electrical circuits of modern cars, a better solution would be to visit a trusted auto electrician. But the final choice is yours.

Thanks everyone for your attention! Be sure to subscribe, leave comments, ask questions and invite your friends to join us!

(No ratings yet)

Source: pricep-vlg.ru

Replacing fuses

If after replacing the bulbs the lighting still does not work, you should check the fuses. The mounting block is located on the left side of the steering wheel.

Fuse layout

Fuse F2 is responsible for low beam lighting in the left headlight unit, and F12 in the right one. It must be said that a fuse malfunction cannot always be detected visually. Therefore, it is better to install new fuses.

If the fuses are intact, but the lighting still does not turn on, you need to find the cause of the malfunction. To do this, you will need a test lamp, or even better, a multimeter.

Head lighting diagram for VAZ 2110

It must be said that repairing the low beam on a VAZ 2110 is not difficult - you just need to ring the circuit and find a break in order to fix it.

Below is the optimal procedure:

• Since the low beam relay on the VAZ 2110 is often the cause of a low beam malfunction, you can start checking with it. Using the device, you need to determine whether voltage is supplied to it and whether it is at the output. If there is no voltage at the output, then the relay needs to be replaced.
• If there is no voltage supplied to the relay and there is no voltage at the fuse terminals, then you should check the VAZ wiring from the switch to the fuses, as well as the switch itself.
• If there is voltage at the output of the relay, you need to check whether it is supplied to the lamp connector. Often the cause of the malfunction is burnt or oxidized contacts. If the low and high beams disappear at once, then the ground wire in the headlight may have come loose.

Note! The cause of relay malfunction is often oxidized contacts, which simply need to be cleaned. Thus, by checking all the main components along the circuit, you will definitely find the cause of the malfunction

The low beam diagram for the VAZ 2110, which is shown above, will help to simplify this work.

Thus, by checking all the main components along the circuit, you will definitely find the cause of the malfunction. The low beam diagram for the VAZ 2110, which is shown above, will help to simplify this work.

Low beam adjustment diagram

We turn on the brake lights forcibly

Relay K1 is successfully replaced with a pad with jumpers. In Fig. 1 just shows its diagram. If there is no such platform, you can temporarily close contacts 4-5. First, check everything mentioned above.

Have an observer watch what happens to the lamps. Press the pedal with one touch and release it. If the lamps do not turn on, check that the fuse is working properly. It's burned out, which means you're looking for a short circuit.

How to and how not to check the “0 Volt” potential

Let’s agree right away that we only work with a voltmeter. Voltage “+12” is caused by connecting one probe to ground. The presence of potential “zero” is checked differently: any of the probes is connected to a terminal with positive voltage, and then the second probe is connected to the wire being tested.

Consider the error: one probe is connected to ground, the second to the terminal being tested, and vol. Here they conclude that there is a “mass” potential, but this is wrong! If the contact with ground is broken, the device will also show “0”. That is, the number “0” does not contain information.

PRICES OF COMPONENTS

There is also a separate section for prices for all the parts that may be needed when repairing this part of the car, because if the side lights on a VAZ 2114 or the fuses have blown, they will still have to be replaced with new ones. In any case, all the components are quite cheap, all we might need:

• Marker lamp;
• Fuse;
• Power button;
• A whole fuse block.

Today, an ordinary white light bulb costs up to 30 rubles; of course, the price depends on the individual pricing policy of a particular seller. Individual fuses can be selected for up to 50 rubles, unless, of course, you want to install a higher quality option. Button, if you look for exactly the same one as the original one, you will have to pay up to 300 rubles. In some situations, more serious problems may arise and you will have to change the entire unit, this is quite an expensive proposition, together with all the wires it will cost up to 1000 rubles.

Article 2: How to correctly replace the fine fuel filter on a VAZ 2114