How to replace the wheel bearing on a Lada Granta?
A malfunction of the chassis of “our brother” is a common thing and now, as a rule, no one is surprised why, for example, a strut or wheel bearing died. Every driver knows that no spare part will last on “our” roads.
Today I’ll tell you how to replace the front wheel bearing on a Grant with your own hands. In addition, you will learn how to understand that a wheel bearing is “dying”, as well as the causes of wheel bearing failure.
A wheel bearing, as you can guess from the name, is related to the hub, and not just any, but the most direct one, thanks to this part the hub, and with it the wheel, can rotate.
How can you tell if a wheel bearing is faulty?
Reasons why the hub fails
Wheel bearing life
100 thousand km, however, due to the constant loads and shocks that the part experiences while driving on a bad road, its service life is often significantly less. In addition, premature failure is affected by mechanical damage, after which the boot is destroyed and dust, dirt and moisture enter the bearing. High loads and temperature changes quickly damage the wheel bearing, after which driving such a car becomes unsafe. Getting jammed while driving can lead to an accident with tragic consequences, so do not delay repairs under any circumstances.
The work is not easy, and therefore will require certain skills and special equipment. Namely:
- Three-jaw hub puller, wheel bearing puller, and circlip pliers;
- Hammer, chisel, set of keys (including a “30” key) and screwdrivers;
- Jack or lift.
Which support bearing is better?
It's difficult to decide which journal bearing is best. The fact is that the driver usually decides, what is better? Buy a standard spare part similar to the existing one in a special car service center, opt for a cheap Chinese counterfeit, or, on the recommendation of a specialist, find foreign or domestic analogues, hoping that they will last longer.
Type of support bearings
Replacing the front wheel bearing of a Lada Granta
Today I’ll tell you how to replace the front wheel bearing on a Grant with your own hands. In addition, you will learn how to understand that a wheel bearing is “dying”, as well as the causes of wheel bearing failure.
A wheel bearing, as you can guess from the name, is related to the hub, and not just any, but the most direct one, thanks to this part the hub, and with it the wheel, can rotate.
How can you tell if a wheel bearing is faulty?
Reasons why the hub fails
Wheel bearing life
100 thousand km, however, due to the constant loads and shocks that the part experiences while driving on a bad road, its service life is often significantly less. In addition, premature failure is affected by mechanical damage, after which the boot is destroyed and dust, dirt and moisture enter the bearing. High loads and temperature changes quickly damage the wheel bearing, after which driving such a car becomes unsafe. Getting jammed while driving can lead to an accident with tragic consequences, so do not delay repairs under any circumstances.
The work is not easy, and therefore will require certain skills and special equipment. Namely:
- Three-jaw hub puller, wheel bearing puller, and circlip pliers;
- Hammer, chisel, set of keys (including a “30” key) and screwdrivers;
- Jack or lift.
How to find out about problems with the hub?
Instructions for replacing the rear wheel bearing on a VAZ 2114 with your own hands
The hub is an important part of any vehicle. It has a hole created to allow it to be attached to an axle or shaft, and the main purpose of this part is to transmit torque from the crankshaft to the wheel, due to which the latter begins to rotate and the car starts to move. Along with the hub, an equally essential element of the chassis assembly is the hub bearing, presented in the form of a double-row ball or single-row roller bearing. Together they are aimed at observing safety measures while the car is moving, so it is clear that failure of any part of them cannot guarantee this.
Today, the rear wheel hubs of any vehicle are subject to significant vertical and axial loads, and on vehicles with rear- or all-wheel drive, high torque is added to this.
Unknowingly, the car owner himself can contribute to the rapid wear of the wheel bearing during the process of replacing wheels. When tightening the fastening bolts, you may not calculate the force and tear them off, but this does not mean at all that you should not fix the wheel rim well
In this matter, it is important to find a “golden mean” and then you will not have to think about the possible consequences. To tighten the bolts, it is best to use an electric wrench, as it better “feels” the limit of permissible force
It affects the rapid wear of the bearing unit (rear wheel) and moisture and dust entering it from the road.
Penetrating into the hub, dust acts as an abrasive substance, gradually squeezing out the lubricant through the sealing parts, as a result of which the hub bearing is destroyed by heat.
It is not difficult to notice the need to replace the wheel bearing; you will be informed about this by a characteristic knock coming from the rear of the body, which intensifies when driving on uneven roads or when hitting bumps and holes. If the car moves on a flat surface, a hum occurs and, although this is not noticeable, the brake drum gets very hot. Also, when turning the steering wheel, quite often an uncharacteristic braking is noticeable - another sure sign of a faulty bearing.
Usually, to determine the cause of bearing failure, just a visual inspection is not enough; the condition of adjacent parts, the quantity (quality) of lubricant and the conditions of use of the vehicle should also be taken into account.
Among the main factors influencing rear wheel bearing failure are:
Reducing the service life of parts due to long-term operation in extreme conditions (the average service life of this type of bearings is calculated at approximately 1,000,000 km, which in reality often does not correspond to this indicator);
Unreliability of lubricants: their excess (lack) or poor quality (70% of cases);
Contamination when moisture or solid particles of various debris get inside the part (18% of cases);
Incorrect wheel installation: incorrect adjustment, excessive force, over-tightening of the bushing, overheating, inaccurate clearance, etc.
To avoid costly damage and take precautions, manufacturers recommend checking wheel bearings every time you replace brake pads, regardless of the age of the vehicle.
Where are the front and rear hubs on the Lada Grant? Description, purpose
The front hub joint is located on the front left (right) side of the axle shaft. The rear hinge is located in the rear left (right) suspension block.
The main purpose of the bearing is to firmly hold the hub and ensure wheel rotation. Structurally, the front (rear) hub consists of:
- outer and inner metal frame;
- a separator in which metal balls and rollers are located;
- insulating rings;
- special filler - graphite-based lubricant.
Analogs
- AUTO DETAIL
- VPZ
- GPZ
- RUSSIA
- AT
- AUTORAM
- BAUTLER
- BZAK
- GALLANT
- GAMMA
- HOLA
- LGR
- PILENGA
- SS20
- QML
- STARNER
- METACO
- TRIALLI
- STELLOX
- ZOMMER
Determine the best wheel bearing
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Front wheel bearing replacement process
New wheel bearing Lada Kalina
To replace the front wheel bearing on a Lada Kalina, you will need certain tools, namely: a 30mm socket, a thin chisel, a wrapper, pliers for removing retaining rings, and mandrels.
Diagram of hub and steering knuckle parts
When the entire tool is assembled, you can proceed directly to the replacement process:
- Remove the negative terminal from the battery.
- We remove the wheel from the car.
View of the removed Kalina wheel
Removing the caliper and brake drum
View of the dismantled hub
Removed steering knuckle
Using a hammer and vice, press the hub from the steering knuckle
Wheel bearing on steering knuckle
Dismantling the hub bearing retaining ring
Press in the new wheel bearing
Pressed in new bearing
That's all, the bearing has been replaced, and it is necessary to carry out the same operations on the opposite side.
Reinforced, non-adjustable hubs
For Niva 4x4 you can find on sale reinforced, non-adjustable hubs with double-row bearings from the Iveco Daily truck. According to the manufacturer, this modernized unit has the following advantages over Nivovsky:
- there is no need to adjust (the bearing tightening is precisely set during its production);
- no need for regular lubrication;
- eliminates rotation of bearings on the hub;
- eliminates wear of bearing seats on the steering knuckle and hub;
- a ball bearing reduces friction in the hub assembly;
- The service life of the hub is increased due to thickening (see photo).
Instructions for installing steering knuckles with non-adjustable bearings are included. To download files you need to log in to the website. There is at least one drawback of such a modified Niva hub - high cost.
The device of the hub on the Lada Grant
Front
- rounded fist;
- external and internal dirt-reflective metal rings;
- front roller bearings;
- hub;
- washer;
- hub nut;
- retaining ring, plug.
Rear hub device
- hub mechanism axis;
- metal ball bearing;
- mud ring;
- retaining ring;
- washer;
- screw;
- sealing ring;
- rubber boot;
- hub cover.
Resource for replacing hub mechanism elements
The average service life of wheel joints is 80 – 85 thousand km. The indicator is average, as it depends on the following factors:
- quality of workmanship of the part;
- frequency of operation of the technical device;
- driving style;
- quality of road surface;
- aggressive environment;
- high operating temperatures;
- compliance with technical inspection intervals.
Reviews
| № | Positive |
| 1. | Gennady: I’ve been actively using the car for two years, there are no comments on the chassis or suspension. Once I replaced the rubber boot on the left CV joint. |
| 2. | Kirill: I have driven the car over 80,000 km, I can say that the CV joint still has service life, but it is necessary to prepare for repairs. In general, the parts are maintained within the period specified by the manufacturer. |
| 3. | Vyacheslav: the car is a year and a half old, I bought it at a dealership, no complaints. I systematically carry out technical inspections, buy original consumables, and do not skimp on preventative maintenance. |
| 4. | Dmitry: replaced the “grenades” only at 90,000 km. The service station master said that the mileage is good, not every car gets that much mileage. I believe that careful driving contributed to extending the life of the vehicle's chassis. |
| 5. | Leonid: I’m pleased with the build quality of the car, there are no complaints. Breakdowns happen, but they are insignificant, I fix them myself. |
| 6. | Vasily: if you don’t take into account minor flaws, then the car is good, better than previous generations. |
| 7. | Victor: I drove Grant for a year and a half, didn’t do any repairs, visited a service station only for diagnostics. |
| Negative | |
| 1. | Ivan: I replaced the right CV joint for the first time at 45,000 km, after which the left one needed repairs. In general, the workmanship is low, I am dissatisfied with the machine. |
| 2. | Alexander: standard CV joints are weak and poorly made. After purchasing a car, experts recommend installing foreign analogues. True, the cost is 15% more expensive than domestic ones. |
| 3. | Vladlen: after two years of active driving, I can’t say anything bad. Minor defects are present, but they can be easily fixed. |
Diagnosis of wheel bearing failure Grants
The front wheel bearing on the Grant is not the most vulnerable part in the suspension, but its failure is possible after a mileage of 80,000 km or due to external and internal factors.
A front hub malfunction is determined by the following symptoms:
- Noise from the wheel while driving (damaged ball bearing parts: rolling elements, raceways or cage);
- Vibration, wheel beating, grinding noise (typical of a broken ball bearing);
- Front wheel play (the ball bearing has failed or the wheel nut is not tightened with sufficient torque).
The same signs of malfunction are characteristic of the rear wheel bearing on the Grant.
Watch the video with the characteristic noise when a hub unit breaks:
Bad bearing humming
Diagnostics of the front hub bearings proceeds as follows:
- The front of the car is raised with a jack;
- Spin the wheel by hand and check for noise;
- Check the axial play (clearance) according to the instructions.
- If you hear a noise or notice other signs, then replacing the front wheel bearing on Granta is inevitable.
- Be sure to watch the diagnostic video.
Diagnostics of the VAZ front wheel bearing
Preparatory stage before replacing the hub mechanism
Required materials and tools:
- hydraulic (mechanical) jack;
- wooden stand;
- wheel wrench;
- screwdriver with a flat, cross-shaped bit;
- hammer;
- knob, nozzles;
- spanners;
- stationary vice;
- chisel;
- two-jaw and cup pullers. The exact dimensions of the pullers are indicated in the operating instructions;
- forceps;
- metal brush;
- lubricant type “CV joint - 4”;
- rags;
- caliper for measuring diameter;
- new wheel bearings;
- additional lighting provided that the work is carried out in the dark.
Replacing the front wheel hub bearing of Lada Granta
Tools:
- Jack or ditch lift
- Stand - 2 pcs.
- Wheel key
- Medium flat screwdriver
- Hammer medium
- Kerner
- Driver for socket attachment
- 10mm wrench attachment
- 19mm wrench attachment
- 30mm wrench attachment
- Torx wrench attachment E12
- Torx wrench attachment E14
- 7 mm straight box spanner
- 17 mm straight box spanner
- Punch
- Bolt M12×1.25 mm - 2 pcs.
- Bench vice
- Chisel
- Double jaw puller
- Cup puller
- Circlip Pliers
- Metal brush
- Needle file
Parts and consumables:
Replace the bearing when it fails. There are two ways to replace a bearing. The first is by removing the steering knuckle assembly, the second is without removing it from the car. The operations for replacing the wheel bearings of the left and right wheels are similar. Carry out the work on an inspection ditch or overpass.
1. Apply the parking brake, raise the front of the vehicle using jacks or a trench lift, and place it on jack stands.
2. Remove the wheel using a wheel wrench.
3. Using a screwdriver, remove the hub protective cap.
4. Using a hammer and center punch, straighten the collar of the hub bearing nut that has been dented in two places.
5. Have an assistant press the brake pedal; At the same time, use a 30 mm wrench to loosen the hub bearing nut.
The nut is tightened with a large torque, so the attachment and wrench must be strong enough to transmit the necessary force.
6. Unscrew the hub bearing nut completely and remove the washer.
Replacement procedure
Lubricate So, we have determined that this cannot be done with a little blood, and the car really needs to replace the bearing. Therefore, we adhere to a clear procedure and begin work.
- Remove the brake drum. There should be no problems with this, since it is fixed quite simply on the rear wheel.
- Pry up the hub cap using a flathead screwdriver and remove it.
- Now, using a narrow chisel, straighten the collar of the nut, which was jammed in two places at once. Don’t be afraid, it wasn’t you who did something, such a jam is provided at production so that the element does not fly out of its rightful place.
- Use a 30mm socket to unscrew the fastening nut.
- Remove the unscrewed nut and also dismantle the thrust washer.
- Arm yourself with a three-legged or two-legged puller, which will allow you to remove the hub from its place.
- If you don't have a three-jaw tool, press out the hub using two bolts or screws. As the practice of craftsmen has shown, bolts for fastening the head of a power unit are excellent for these purposes.
- Screw the screws into the opposite holes for fastening the wheel and rest their ends against the heads of the bolts securing the hub axle to the rear suspension beam of your car.
- Try to tighten the screws evenly to allow the hub to press out. There is no need to remove the pads.
- As a rule, the inner race of the bearing should remain on the hub axis.
- Secure the ring using a puller, then remove it.
- If you don’t have a puller, you will have to additionally dismantle the brake pads and use a chisel to mix the ring to the axle.
- Next, the ring moves. Two mounting blades will help you with this.
- Do not be afraid that after processing with a chisel, some kind of defects or nicks will form on the hub axis. This is not terrible, but it is highly recommended to process them with a needle file.
- Arm yourself with pliers, thanks to which you can carefully remove the retaining ring.
- Using a piece of suitable pipe, also carefully knock out the bearing, leaning on the inner ring.
- Another option is to press it out using a wheel bearing puller.
- Clean and effectively lubricate the hub into which the new rear wheel bearing is pressed with a puller or vice. The pressing force must be applied to the outer ring. It will be most convenient for you to do this using the outer ring from an old bearing.
- Install the new retaining ring in its proper place.
- Using light blows on the inner ring, press the bearing onto the axle. Drive until deep enough to fit the nut.
- Full pressing is carried out with the nut already on.
- Be sure to use only the specified torque to tighten the fastener.
- Press the collar of the nut into the two grooves of your hub axle to restore the element to its original appearance.
This procedure cannot be called incredibly complicated, but you will have to “tinker” in your garage. But this is better and more cost-effective than going to a service station and entrusting your car to unknown specialists.
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Replacing the front hub of Lada Granta
- We place the car within the perimeter of the repair area and provide priority safety measures.
- Let's jack up the right (left) side.
- Unscrew the bolts and remove the wheel.
- Let's unlock the hub.
- On the back side, unscrew the two bolts that guide the brake caliper.
Location of two bolts
- We remove the caliper, hang it on a wire (we fix it on the steering tip).
- Unscrew the hub nut and remove the brake disc.
- We unscrew the two bolts - the rack clamps. If necessary, we use a liquid to remove deposits like WD-40.
- Disconnect the strut with the steering knuckle and unscrew the ball joint fasteners.
- We remove the CV joint.
Next, install the new hub assembly and assemble the structure in the reverse order.
Replacing the front wheel bearing of Lada Granta
- The front hub joint is located in the steering knuckle housing, remove it. Pre-clamp the structure in a stationary vice.
- We install the metal spacer - the head at “22” on the surface of the hub. We apply targeted blows with a hammer to press it out.
- We disconnect the inner race of the hinge and remove the separator with metal balls.
- To remove the outer part of the hinge, use pliers and remove the retaining rings.
- To dismantle the inner part of the cage we use a chisel. Gently tap with a hammer. Press-out puller
- Use a puller to press out the axle shafts.
Symptoms of a problem
Problems associated with the front hub are identified by the following symptoms:
- extraneous, unnatural noise from the wheel during rotation;
- wheel beating, vibrations of varying degrees of intensity;
- sounds of scraping metal;
- front wheel play appears.
Causes of breakdowns
The service life of the product is quite long and amounts to about one hundred thousand kilometers, subject to gentle operation. However, in real “combat” conditions, the element fails much earlier than its allotted time. Here are 3 important factors that significantly reduce the service life of a bearing:
- Unsatisfactory condition of roads. The fact is that when driving on an uneven surface, wheel bearings take on increased load, sudden impacts, and exposure to high and low temperatures. Over time, the metal components of the product become brittle and begin to break down.
- Aggressive environments. Due to the fact that the element is located in the center of the wheel, it is constantly in contact with moisture, water, dust, and dirt. In winter it is exposed to cold temperatures and in summer to hot temperatures.
- High operating temperatures. The rotation process is accompanied by the natural release of heat; constant heating and cooling occurs (especially in winter conditions), which has a detrimental effect on strength and wear resistance.
Replacing the rear wheel bearing of a Lada Granta with your own hands
Note to the driver. Before starting installation work, clean the surface from debris and dirt. Apply a thin layer of oil and be sure to lubricate the outer race of the hinge.
- We install the new hinge and lightly press it into the cavity.
- Evenly tighten the hinge until it touches the outer edge.
- We fix the retaining ring and install the hub in its original place.
Installation in a regular place. Assembly of the structure
- Apply a thin layer of graphite grease, put the assembly on the shaft, and secure it with a nut.
- We complete the tightening with a torque wrench (tightening torque 30 Nm).
- Use a chisel to counter the nut and put on the cap.
This completes the disassembly, assembly, and replacement of the rear wheel bearing.
Note to the driver. The Lada Granta Sport modification has a rear hub with a pre-installed ABS sensor.
It often happens that during the process of dismantling the hub mechanism, a bolt or pin breaks. The reasons for this are different, ranging from the old age of the metal to manufacturing defects.
So, how to remove a broken bolt. We carry out the work in several stages:
- mark the center of the stud;
- drill with a drill to 2.5, after 5.5, 9.5 mm;
- scroll with a bolt with a diameter of 9.5 - 10.0 mm;
- remove remaining metal and shavings.
Causes of malfunctions
The resource of this part is very impressive and can reach 100 thousand km, subject to gentle operation. Modern realities show that the front hub bearing can become unusable much earlier than the specified regulatory period.
Next, we will identify three significant factors that can cause premature wear of a part such as the front wheel bearing in a Lada Granta car.
- The state of domestic roads, the quality of which is far from ideal. When driving over bumps, the front wheel bearing experiences enormous stress. Also, critical temperatures and dynamic impacts (shocks) can have a negative impact on their condition. All this leads to the structure of the material from which the front hub bearing is made losing its strength properties, which provokes destructive processes.
- Exposure to aggressive environments. Due to the structural location of the bearing, it is doomed to constant contact with moisture, dirt and other negative atmospheric factors. The influence of heat and cold is also detrimental to his condition.
- Increased operating temperature. During the rotation process, natural heat generation occurs. Temperature changes, especially in winter, also have a detrimental effect on the strength parameters of the product.
Review of manufacturer prices for front and rear hinges
How to choose and buy quality parts
Service center specialists strongly recommend purchasing consumables and components exclusively from specialized stores, representative offices, and official dealers.
To a lesser extent, you need to use the services of unverified suppliers who sell spare parts at an unusually low cost.
When purchasing, check the catalog numbers with the actual data specified in the operating instructions for the technical device. If such a brochure is not available, consult a specialist.
Video “Do-it-yourself replacement instructions”
Visual instructions for replacement are presented in the video below (the author of the video is Dmitry).
Each vehicle mechanism requires timely technical inspection and maintenance, otherwise sooner or later serious problems may arise and the need for expensive repairs. This applies to almost every part of the vehicle and the wheel bearing is no exception. It is thanks to him that the wheel of the car rotates. The bearing experiences very significant loads during operation, so it is made exclusively from high-strength materials. However, over time, it can still fail and in this case it should be replaced immediately, since driving a car becomes unsafe.
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Lada (“Lada”) is a brand of cars produced by JSC AVTOVAZ. Previously, it was used only for export cars, and for the domestic market, cars were produced under the Zhiguli brand. In 2004, the management of AVTOVAZ announced the transition to the Latin alphabet for the official spelling of the names of all cars produced by the plant: Lada - instead of "VAZ" and "Lada".
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