When to change and how to check the clutch - its service life may have come to an end


Lada Granta cars are equipped with a clutch of the same system as the Lada Kalina. Reliable, correct operation of the clutch ensures correct gear shifting and allows the car to move smoothly. If the system malfunctions, the car moves jerkily, and the driver experiences problems when changing gears. The problem can be resolved by replacing the clutch with a new one. You can do this yourself with a special mandrel for centering the clutch disc and some repair skills.

Replacement is carried out in the following order:

  1. The car is placed on a lift and the gearbox is removed;
  2. If there is no need to change the basket, marks are made on the flywheel with a center punch;
  3. The six bolts that hold the basket in place with an “8” key are unscrewed;
  4. The basket is removed from the flywheel and the driven disk;
  5. Next, the release bearing is removed. To do this, use a flat-head screwdriver to remove the spring that holds the bearing;
  6. The release bearing and clutch are removed from the guide sleeve;
  7. The spring holding the release bearing is removed;
  8. If there is a need to change the clutch fork or its bushing, use a screwdriver to pry off the rubber boot;
  9. The fork bushing is pulled out from the clutch housing;
  10. The clutch fork is removed from the seat and removed from the clutch housing by lifting it up. If the need arises, we replace it with a new one;
  11. The clutch is assembled in the reverse order of removal. Before this, all removed parts must be washed with kerosene;
  12. Next, “CV joint-4” lubricant is applied to the bushing guide and the splined part of the input shaft;
  13. All removed parts of the clutch housing are installed in the reverse order of removal;
  14. To center the clutch, you need to use a mandrel that is inserted into the hole in the end of the crankshaft;
  15. After this, the driven clutch disc is placed on the mandrel, with the side where the hub protrudes larger directed towards the gearbox;
  16. Next, the basket is installed;
  17. We align the marks made before disassembly and tighten the bolts;
  18. The centering mandrel is removed and the gearbox is installed in place.

After replacement, you should check the operation of the clutch drive. If everything is done correctly, gears will shift without crunching and clearly, and the car will move smoothly, without jerking or beating.

This completes the replacement of the clutch on the Lada Granta. This work is not difficult to perform, but if you have absolutely no experience in carrying out this type of operation, then it is better to do it with a person who has already replaced clutches on cars.

Why has the clutch pedal become stiff?

If the car is completely new, then the so-called drive wedge may have occurred. This is the easiest fault that you can adjust yourself. But if we are talking about an older car, then perhaps the problems are more serious and affect the entire unit.

Most often, such problems occur due to poor performance of the diaphragm spring. It is possible that the fork is jamming or the bearing being pressed out is jammed. Cable scuffing often occurs. The driven disk itself may also become jammed.

If the car is in use for a long time, then cracks may appear on the drive fork. You also need to understand that over many years of driving a car, a large amount of dirt could simply accumulate in this unit.

Sequence of actions when removing and replacing the Lada Granta clutch with cable drive

  1. After removing the manual transmission (the process is described above), we mark the location of the basket and flywheel with marks. In the event that we do not plan to replace the basket or pressure plate. The decision is made by the repairman based on the diagnostic results.


Removed manual transmission

  1. Unscrew the bolts and remove the basket with the pressure driven disk.


Cart with disc

Note to the driver!!! We loosen the tightening of the bolts evenly, according to the diagonal principle, one turn of the key.

  1. Remove the discs from the clutch basket.


Removing a disc from the bin

  1. We carry out troubleshooting of parts, adjacent mechanisms and elements.

What to pay attention to when troubleshooting:

  • cracks, breaks in parts;
  • depressions of more than 0.2 mm;
  • check for cracks on the diaphragm spring;
  • We inspect the support rings; there should be no signs of wear, visible or obvious defects on them;

We replace worn elements with new ones as necessary.

How to replace a release bearing - step-by-step instructions

The entire bearing replacement process is outlined below, supported by photographs for greater clarity. To replace you will need: a new release valve (suitable from Priora, but you will have to trim the “ears”); pit or lift; set of tools.

1. Work is performed on an inspection pit or on a lift. We unscrew everything that may interfere with hanging the box (protection, hanging cables, etc.).

2. Unscrew the bolts securing the box and disconnect it from the motor.

3. We hang the box on ropes without removing it completely and without disconnecting the CV joints.

4. Remove the retaining spring, then remove the faulty bearing from the guide bushing.

Reassembly is performed in reverse order; during assembly, do not forget to lubricate the shaft on which the release bearing sits. If the replacement process is not described in sufficient detail for you, you can read a more detailed report

Replacing the release bearing Kalina 2, 1118, Cross, Sport

To make a replacement you will need to put your car on a pit or a lift. Repairs are also possible if you have reliable supports and a jack. It is worth noting that without a pit or lift, the replacement method without removing the box, which is described at the end of the article, is suitable.

How to remove the gearbox and release bearing on Kalina 2 (1.4-1.6 8kl) with your own hands

Replacing the release bearing on a Lada Kalina begins with dismantling the gearbox; this process is described in detail in step-by-step instructions with photos/videos. Perform the operations in order.

  1. Open the hood of the car and immediately remove the battery.
  2. Next, remove the air filter by unscrewing the clamp and disconnecting the fastenings to the body.
  1. The clutch cable is located behind the battery; you need to unscrew the nut and disconnect the cable from the fastener.
  2. Now disconnect the plug of the speed sensor wire, it is located behind the “engine”, in the area of ​​​​the pipes.
  1. Next, find the upper bolts securing the gearbox to the engine and unscrew them.
  1. The last operations on top of the gearbox are unscrewing the starter and its terminals, as well as disconnecting the clutch cable and electrical wiring.
  1. Remove the front wheels and tighten the hub nuts. We disconnect the protection (mud flaps) under the wing.
  1. Immediately disconnect the terminal of the reversing lights wire.
  1. Nearby there is a suspension beam, first twist the rear nut with a 24mm wrench.
  2. Now we move on to the ball joints, loosen the nuts and remove them on both sides.
  1. On the same side of the manual transmission we find the oil drain plug, unscrew it and drain it into any container.
  2. Between the manual transmission and the engine there is a clutch protective cover. To remove it, unscrew the nuts around the perimeter.
  1. Let's move on to dismantling the gearshift mechanism. First, unscrew the two bolts and remove the cover.
  2. Then unscrew the screw that secures the linkage connection.
  1. The next step is to remove the wheel drive shafts from the gearbox on both sides.
  1. Let's return to the suspension. On the manual transmission side, it is necessary to unscrew the bolt securing the lever, and also disconnect the extension.
  1. Next, to remove the gearbox and replace the release bearing of the VAZ Kalina, unscrew the lower bolts securing the gearbox to the engine, as well as the front cushion. Before doing this, be sure to install a support under the engine.
  1. As a result, the housing of the high-speed unit (MKPP-2181) will be completely disconnected from the mating units, and it can be dismantled. First, use a sharp, wide screwdriver to separate the assembly from the engine.
  2. Then we manually dismantle the assembly. It is advisable to use a special telescopic stand or ask a partner for help, since the gearbox is not light. After removal, we proceed to replacing the release bearing on the Lada Kalina with our own hands.

How is the clutch adjusted?

So, how to properly adjust the clutch? The clutch of the modern VAZ model family has a clutch cable, along with which there are ratchet mechanisms in the structural unit. These cables do not provide for any clearance, which in theory does not imply the need for adjustment. However, the manufacturer insistently recommends performing periodic adjustment procedures on this mechanism.

To perform the adjustment on these cars, including the Lada Granta, you should stock up on a ruler (a caliper is also suitable) and a screwdriver.

The sequence of manipulations looks like this.

  1. Open the hood of the Lada Grant and install the clutch cable in its original position. To do this, move its lower edge forward until it stops. By moving the cable, you can feel the force created by the return spring. We do not pay due attention to this aspect and continue this manipulation.
  2. Taking a ruler or the same caliper, we measure the distance. The photo clearly shows the segment to be measured: between the beginning of the fork and the cable lead. For correct measurements, you will need to keep the cable in a stationary and certain position. The ideal measurement result would be 27 mm. When clutch adjustment is required, the actual parameter will differ from the stated standard. To achieve the required value (27 mm), rotate the cable lead.
  3. Having completed this action, insert the cable end into the groove of the fork, and then release the retained element. Please note that there is no gap.
  4. This completes the procedure. Now we move on to pressing the pedal multiple times to make sure the unit is functioning correctly. After completing a set of presses, we once again measure the distance along the cable and, if discrepancies appear, perform repeated adjustments.

The need to adjust the cable on Lada Granta, Kalina or Priora occurs regardless of its condition (new or has already spent a certain amount of service life).

When does the need for adjustment occur?

In such cases:

  • when there are jerks from the start that are permanent;
  • when an attempt to engage a gear is accompanied by a blow;
  • if the pedal is stuck.

These are the most striking symptoms indicating the need for adjustment. Ideally, the level of the pedal should coincide with the brake. In this case, the full pedal travel is 125 - 135 mm. Practice shows that the stroke can be exceeded by up to 160 mm.

To properly adjust the pedal assembly, you will need to stock up on two wrenches with suitable parameters.

  1. Loosen the locknut holding the cable. It is located on the engine compartment side.
  2. Now use a wrench to rotate the second locknut to achieve the correct clearance.
  3. Upon completion of the process, be sure to tighten the first nut to the required torque.

Attention! If the pedal is adjusted with its position below the brake, then the moment the clutch engages will occur when the pedal itself “lifts” from the floor. When the level is above the brake pedal, seizure will occur at the end of the stroke.

We remind you that efforts should be made to achieve a uniform level in the pedal assembly (the author of the video is Time R).

How to check the clutch?

The clutch is checked using already proven and reliable folk methods, and only by them. Naturally, in addition to disassembling the clutch. We are talking about how you can check the clutch of your car yourself, and then decide whether you need a more in-depth diagnostic with dismantling the clutch mechanism.

So, let's start checking the clutch on the main points.

Clutch slippage. Those. again we are talking about wear on the driven disk when it is not fully pressed against the flywheel, which means there is no full clutch.

  • We put the car on the handbrake and start the engine;
  • engage a higher gear: 3rd or 4th;
  • slowly depress the clutch and “give” the gas;
  • When the handbrake is adjusted, the car engine should stall. If this does not happen, then it is time to think about replacing the clutch disc.

The clutch “drives” , i.e. it doesn't turn off completely. This malfunction is accompanied by difficult gear shifting, or extraneous noises and sounds when changing gears. And the gearbox is hardly to blame here. Checking the clutch.

  • the engine is idling;
  • Depress the clutch pedal completely and engage first or reverse gear;
  • If the gear is engaged with uncharacteristic effort, and at the same time you hear extraneous sounds, then the driven disk does not completely move away from the flywheel, i.e. the clutch “drives”;
  • you need to pump the hydraulics and adjust the free play of the clutch pedal;
  • check again, if nothing has changed, then it’s time to go to a car service for a more in-depth diagnosis of the clutch.

Using these simple methods, you can independently check the clutch before it fails at the most inopportune moment. Timely diagnostics, and even better - correct operation, will increase the life of the clutch, or take timely measures to eliminate malfunctions.

What signs indicate a malfunction?

If, when you press the pedal, it fails without effort, and it is impossible to change gear while moving, then the drive is faulty.

If the wear is severe, you may notice an unpleasant smell of burnt metal. You can feel it when starting to move or during sudden acceleration.

An increase in engine speed when the accelerator is pressed, if the speed does not change, also indicates a faulty mechanism.

A hum and noise when you press the pedal indicates that it is time to change the release bearing.

Clutch box design "Lada-Grants"

On this car, this unit is no different from that installed in the Lada-Kalina. This is a mechanism consisting of a flywheel on which a special basket is attached. It must constantly press the disc with the friction linings. Thanks to this, torque begins to be transmitted to the transmission.

When we talk about a cable-type clutch on a Lada Grant, in this case it means that when the car owner presses the pedal, the cable that is connected to the clutch fork is tensioned, and special petals stop pressing the disc. Accordingly, the torque from the power unit is no longer transmitted to the gearbox.

There is only one clutch disc on the Lada Grant. This unit itself is a friction unit, equipped with a diaphragm-shaped spring. The clutch is combined with the gearbox in one housing.

Cost of a new node

If we talk about how much a clutch for a Lada Granta costs, then it all depends on the generation of the car, modification and other parameters. For example, if we are talking about a car produced between 2011 and 2018. with an engine capacity of 1.6 liters, a complete set can cost up to 35,000 rubles. But it is not always necessary to replace the entire assembly.

For example, a kit without a release bearing will cost about 5,800 rubles. Therefore, the price of a clutch for a Lada Granta may fluctuate.

Preparation for repair

To remove and subsequently replace the clutch, prepare a set of tools consisting of:

  • center punch;
  • extension cord;
  • funnels;
  • heads (8, 10, 15, 17, 19 and 30 mm);
  • high head (13 mm);
  • heads Torx E12 and Torx E14;
  • Phillips and flat screwdrivers;
  • pliers;
  • curved spanners (8 and 13 mm);
  • straight spanners (17 and 19 mm);
  • two adjustable stops;
  • metal brush;
  • ratchet wrench;
  • caliper;
  • stands;
  • hammer;
  • jack;
  • balloon wrench;
  • torque wrench;
  • centering mandrel.

In addition, you will need to apply certain parts and consumables. So, you will need CV joint-4 lubricant, a guide pin M12×1.25 mm, transmission oil, wood blocks, a technical container, a hose, rags and the clutch itself.

Preparatory stage before replacing the clutch on the Lada Grant

Necessary tools, materials:

  • set of car keys, sockets, ratchet;
  • extension;
  • calipers;
  • additional lighting;
  • screwdrivers with a set of bits;
  • mounting blade;
  • pliers;
  • hammer;
  • metal brush;
  • hydraulic (mechanical) jack;
  • cylinder and torque wrench;
  • graphite-based lubricant “CV joint-4”;
  • container for draining waste;
  • 6 liters of gear oil;
  • clutch assembly;
  • wooden spacers;
  • rags.

How to replace the cable in the clutch mechanism?

How to properly replace a clutch cable? Below are detailed aspects of the instructions to successfully replace the cable.

  1. First, we begin to unscrew the cable nut from the bracket, which is located under the dashboard. We perform this action using the key set to “8”, after which access to dismantling the bracket stop appears.
  2. We disconnect the locking bracket, which is located on the “finger”.
  3. Next, remove the body of the compensation device (use a screwdriver).
  4. We remove the fluoroplastic bushing from the pedal pin.
  5. We visually monitor the assembly element for wear. If such “artifacts” are present on the surface of the bushing, then we definitely replace it by pre-treating it with grease.
  6. We dismantle the cable seal, which is mounted in the technological hole of the frontal shield of the body (in the photo it can be seen from the engine compartment).
  7. Pull the cable end as you move until it is removed from the fork groove.
  8. Using the key “17” we “defeat” the nut by means of which the cable tip is held on the corresponding bracket of the transmission unit. To prevent the tip from turning, we use an additional key.
  9. Now we proceed to dismantling the cable end, after which we remove this element from the hole. The cable itself can also be removed.
  10. Having completed the indicated manipulations, we begin the installation of a new unit.
  11. First, we pass the cable into the previously designated hole in the front shield.
  12. We treat the bushing with a special compound and fix the wear compensation element on the corresponding pin.
  13. Now we attach the cable directly to the pedal and return the previously removed seal to its place.
  14. We move on to installing the tip on the LADA Granta transmission bracket. Screw the retaining nut with the required torque (do not overdo it).
  15. We remember the need to tighten the leash.
  16. We continue the installation procedure by moving the lower tip in the forward direction until a feeling of stop occurs.
  17. We hold the tip in the designated position and at the same time measure the distance that was illuminated by us earlier (more specifically: in the “leash-fork” section). If the parameter is incorrect, rotate the leash until the optimal value appears.
  18. We remember the need to lubricate the body of the leash before installing it in the knot. The surface in contact with the fork must be lubricated.
  19. The final action is to press the pedal to its full value multiple times. Then we again make a control measurement in the “fork – leash” sector and, if it deviates from the regulations (27 mm), we make a re-regulation. This completes the clutch cable replacement.

Do-it-yourself clutch installation on a Lada Granta

  1. Using a mandrel, we install the driven disk, basket, and centering pins.
  2. We fix the basket to the flywheel with three bolts. We tighten the bolts evenly according to the diagonal principle with a force of 37 N.m. We use a torque wrench.
  3. We remove the frame and install the manual transmission.
  4. We fix the clutch drive on the manual transmission.
  5. We adjust the distance from the plastic bushing to the drive fork. It should be equal to 27 mm. We adjust the key value to “10”.


We measure 10 mm

Release bearing Gearbox 2181, Clutch release clutch Gearbox 2181 - replacement in Lada Granta

Well, I was struck by the death of the release bearing with a mileage of 23 thousand km, also known as the clutch release clutch of the gearbox 2181. Judging by people's reviews, this bearing does not last more than 30 thousand km. In the evening everything was fine. The next day in the morning, while squeezing the clutch, I noticed that it was somehow not being pressed correctly, I thought, maybe it seemed, and after 20 - 30 km the clutch disappeared altogether.

With the car running, I could not turn on the first and rear, 3,4,5 turned on with difficulty, and after a while they did not turn on. But with the car turned off, all transmissions were switched on. Having opened the hood, I pulled the clutch fork, it dangled as desired in different directions, i.e. was not fixed. Having reached the garage under my own power (25 km), I began to find out the reason. I disassembled and removed everything unnecessary that interfered with removing the box. We unscrewed and separated the box from the engine and supports, hung it by the CV joints (in this position it is problematic to install it later, it is better to read a repair book). The problem became immediately clear - the release bearing had died. Among other release bearings, I chose a roughly similar one - the Priorov one, but it still needed to be installed somehow, and for it to still work. In the 2181 gearbox there is a release fork similar to a fork from a cornfield, based on this I decided to also buy a release bearing spring from a cornfield (or from a VAZ 2101) that secures the bearing to the fork.

on the left - Grantovsky, on the right - Priorovsky bearing

action plan

+spring

hanging the box

modified Priorov bearing sits on the shaft

The spring is installed in the bearing groove and fixes the fork on the other side, i.e. the fork is clamped by a spring, if something is not clear, then read the manual for replacing the release bearing in the field.

Well, that’s all, actually. I put the box back, assembled everything, and connected it. Works great. Don’t forget to lubricate the shaft where the bearing sits and the splines with a lubricant like lithol, but not too much because if you overdo it, then when the shaft rotates, lubricant can splash onto the clutch disc, and it will slip. After these procedures, the clutch pedal became a little softer, and the gears shifted better. I drove more than 100 km, everything is fine, time will tell how long it will last. Well, everyone decides for themselves to change the original 2181 release bearing every 30tkm or less, or install another one with modifications. The release bearing should last for the entire service life of the clutch, i.e. operating time to failure is at least 800 thousand “off-on” cycles of the clutch, which is equivalent to a car mileage of 100,000 km, and a bearing that falls apart up to 30 thousand km.

When to change and how to check the clutch - its service life may have come to an end

Good day, dear car enthusiasts! Each of us is always concerned about how long this or that part or car system will last. It `s naturally. Especially considering the quality of some products, the “skills” of workers, etc.

This issue fully concerns the car’s clutch. Very often on motorist forums there is a serious question about when to change the clutch, and how to know when the time has come to replace it. So let’s try to figure out together what the actual service life of the clutch is, and whether it exists at all.

Is there a certain clutch resource?

Whether or not you will be upset when you find out that the manufacturer does not indicate specific figures for clutch service life. If, for example, in the brake system, it is clearly stated that the thickness of the brake disc should be such and such, then why is this not applicable to the clutch?

The fact is that clutch wear depends on many reasons, and first of all, of course, on how the driver changes gears and in what mode the clutch is used.

And while clutch disc thickness cannot be measured the same way brake disc thickness can be measured with a caliper, there are ways to measure it. There are two of them.

  • The first way to measure the thickness of the clutch disc is with a special measuring gauge. This method does not require dismantling the clutch; it is performed on a lift. But you are unlikely to use it.
  • the second method is simpler to implement and allows you to determine the wear of the clutch disc in order to replace it. Replacing the driven disk is a procedure provided by the manufacturer, because The driven disk is a consumable part. The check is carried out as follows: with the engine running, you need to put it in high gear, accelerate it, and if the car does not stall, this means that the driven disk is worn out and requires replacement. It must be remembered that such a check of the thickness of the clutch disc is not technologically correct, but it is effective and allows you to determine the condition of the disc extremely accurately.

As already mentioned, the life of any clutch is determined by its operating conditions. Without going into technical details of the interaction of clutch parts, you should understand that basically the life of the clutch and the wear rate of the discs depend only on the driver.

A clutch of the same quality and manufacturer can last 5,000 km for one driver, and 100,000 for another. Participation in drag racing, frequent slipping, abrupt starting at high speeds, ingress of foreign liquids and objects, unqualified installation and adjustment clutch - all this reduces the life of the clutch.

Clutch installation

Before you begin assembling the clutch, you must wash each removed element in kerosene. Then apply a thin layer of CV joint-4 lubricant to the guide sleeve of the release bearing and to the spline of the input shaft. The installation of parts begins with the release bearing, after which the clutch fork, spring and bushing are installed.

Next, the clutch is centered using a special frame inserted into the hole in the crankshaft end, while the driven disc is placed on the frame so that the protrusion located on the hub faces the gearbox. After this, the clutch basket is installed, and the centering frame is removed. Then you will need to install the gearbox in its proper place.

After installation, check and monitor the gear shifting process; they should turn on clearly, without clearly audible extraneous crunching sounds. In addition, ideally the car will move away without jerking.

Clutch selection | Topic author: Fumo

I apologize for creating such a topic, I want to know what is better to put? I drive fast, sharply)

Alexey (Bishamon) I change the clutch every year and a half.

Alexey (Bishamon) Alexey, don’t forget to buy a release spring. It is not included in the kit. Price 5 rub. And this is a completely normal clutch. I have two years and the flight is normal.

Alexey (Bishamon) Okay, I’ll take that into account. Thank you!

Alexey (Bishamon) And the mileage is 60 thousand, already changed twice

Artem (Deepa) I drive a Kraft. ok...nothing to compare with yet.

Alexey (Bishamon) There are legends on the internet about the toughness of Craft. When you have the opportunity to compare, let me know.))

Artem (Deepa) Alexey, definitely. but I hope not soon.

Aydar (Sisel) Alexey, I installed craft, for the first two days I couldn’t get going) but then I got used to it) so far everything is fine)

Alexey (Bishamon) Aidar, in the summer when it’s hot, if it starts to twitch, change it right away, don’t wait until the release valve falls apart.

Sergey (Giladah) I changed the clutch myself, I even removed and installed the box myself.. Replacing the clutch in our service costs 4000 rubles. It’s free and high quality (when I was changing it I noticed that the bolts securing the box were not tightened). And how nice it is to drive a car that you made yourself!

Alexey (Bishamon) My clutch constantly jerks in the heat. You change it, drive it for a month and it starts jerking again when you start. Could it be the flywheel?

Alexey (Bishamon) Alexey, these are either springs or a basket. As a result, the clutch still dies from this hammering. Install a normal set, don’t buy Craft or anything cheap. and forget it.

Pavel (Hadasa) is it possible to put the clutch disc from the Niva on the seven? please advise?

Alexey (Bishamon) Pavel, what kind of question? https://avtopasker.ru/catalog/index.php? search=? 4?? 4?? ..

Vlad (Sylvia) people, started the car, turned on the clutch, it fell down and the gear does not engage, and when the car is not started, all the gears work, and every other time the clutch pedal returns when turned on, what is this.

Alexey (Bishamon) Vlad, what did the check and adjustment show? https://car-exotic.com/vaz-cars/vaz-lada-2107-auto-rep.. Although if you say that the pedal has fallen, then the GCS needs to be changed. Didn't change it? . Or look where the liquid leaked.

Vlad (Sylvia) Alexey, ok

Nikolay (Cornell) I drove a craft about 4 years ago, it was hard and the release was either defective, or it was really shitty, it whistled and didn’t run a thousand. Since then I have had a negative attitude towards him. Plus, it’s true that everything was there, the right-handed plastic convenient one was included in the kit, well, to center the disk, I still use it)

What to pay attention to

There are certain signs that the clutch on the Lada Grant has failed and action needs to be taken. It is worth paying attention that if the car has just been purchased, the pedal will be pressed quite easily. If this requires great effort, then this is the first evidence that the clutch needs to be adjusted or replaced.

It is also worth paying attention to the appearance of extraneous squeaks at the moment when the driver presses the pedal. In addition, it should not twitch when the car owner does not touch it.

Most often, car enthusiasts are faced with the fact that the pedal travel becomes too tight. It is worth considering in more detail the reasons for this problem.

Replacing the clutch on a Lada Grant (robot)

The process of prevention and replacement is similar to that described above. Provided the recommendations are followed, the repairman will not have any problems with the installation.

The main task is not to damage the upper actuator when dismantling/installing the automatic transmission. To make disassembling the automatic transmission easier, first remove the subframe cross member. We lower the two engine mounts, remove the automatic transmission, and replace the clutch. When finished, assemble the structure in reverse order.

Reviews

Positive
1.Vladimir: I have been successfully using the machine for two years now, there are no comments on the work. Investments are minimal, consumables, filters, oils.
2.Gennady: I ​​attend every scheduled maintenance according to the schedule. The car is in good condition, the technician is carrying out computer diagnostics. Soon the mileage will be 90,000 km, I hope that repairs will occur after 105,000 km.
3.Vasily: at 60,000 km I replaced the cable, it started to creak, I didn’t lubricate it, I bought a new one. There are no more comments, everything works properly.
4.Ignat: I have no special complaints about the car. Of course, Lada is not ideal, but for the budget segment it is the best solution.
5.Dmitry: at 80,000 km I replaced the repair kit for the bushings on the clutch pedal, it started to creak. Additionally, I lubricated the cable. My recommendations to motorists. All work was carried out independently, without the help of service station workers.
6.Kirill: I replaced the clutch at 95,000 km, I think that this is a very good mileage for a domestic car. The installation process is not complicated, I did the work myself. Special thanks to the store manager for recommending quality spare parts.
7.Georgy: replaced the release bearing at 105,000 km, mileage as in the instructions. There are no problems with the engine, the car runs like a watch.
Negative
1.Victor: my bearing fell apart at 50,000 km, it was replaced at a service station. After 10,000 km the cable creaked and was also replaced with a new one. The Granta model is crude, has many flaws, I do not recommend purchasing it.
2.Vyacheslav: over the past six months it has undergone unscheduled repairs twice. Initially, the basket flew off after a problem with the starter.
3.Kirill: despite the manufacturer’s warranty, the clutch basket has already flown for 60,000 km. Contacted the service for diagnostics and repairs. The manufacturing quality is low, the actual service life of the parts is lower than stated.

Selection of components

The clutch life on Grants depends on the operating conditions in which the car is located, and therefore can have significant differences. When using the car sparingly, the clutch is changed after 100,000 km. One of the most common types of clutch installed by the Volzhsky Automobile Plant is LUK clutches.

As a rule, clutches are sold in the form of kits, which include a clutch disc and basket, as well as a release bearing. The approximate cost of clutches for Granta starts at 2,000 rubles and can vary significantly in a particular region.

To purchase an original kit and not a counterfeit, buy parts only in specialized retail outlets, based on real customer reviews, or order the kit directly from the manufacturer (for example, using the Internet). Sometimes clutches are assembled from components made by different manufacturers.

Where is the best place to make a purchase?

You can buy a Granta clutch new or old, original or non-original. The choice depends on the financial condition of the car owner and his preferences regarding the manufacturer. Car mechanics recommend installing new original parts, as they are ideal for the car.

But original spare parts are expensive. You can save a little by purchasing an analogue from another company (for example, Valeo or KraftTech). New clutches are sold in the following places:

  • Auto parts store.
  • Online store.
  • Car market.

The first option is preferable due to reliability. In the car market there is a risk of buying a Chinese counterfeit.

Old auto parts have a short service life, but are cheaper than new ones. Motorists with a limited budget should choose such parts. Used clutches are sold on the car market, by advertisement, at a disassembly point.

Review of Manufacturer Prices

Manufacturer article numberPrice, rub.)Resource (Thousand km)
Set of wheels LADA 2190-316010001From 310085 — 105
—/— 2190-31601000—/——/—
—/— 302050901—/——/—
—/— 302052223—/——/—
—/— 302052307—/——/—
LADA 21810160118001 clutchFrom 65080
LADA 21090160119000 input shaft guideFrom 75075 — 80
LADA 21010160121500 fork supportFrom 15075 – 95
LADA 21810160120001 plugFrom 80085 – 95
Connecting spring fork and clutch 21010160118800From 35085 — 95

*prices are current as of October 30, 2018.

Features of correct adjustment of the unit

Quite often, clutch-related problems are solved by standard adjustments. However, such measures must be carried out based on the recommendations of specialists and experienced car owners. First of all, you need to turn off the engine. After this, just press the pedal several times and listen to the sounds. If no grinding or creaking is heard, then the adjustment continues.

If the Lada-Granta clutch pedal gets stuck or it moves jerkily, then its position needs to be adjusted. First of all, you need to completely squeeze it out with your hand. It is better not to use your foot, as in this case it will be much more difficult to feel minor jamming or, conversely, jerking at the moment when the lever returns to its original position.

If you manage to find out that the pedal twitches a little, then you need to arm yourself with a ruler and determine the distance from the floor to the pedal, or rather, the part that protrudes outward. After this, while continuing to hold the measuring device, the car owner must press the lever and wait until it returns to the same position. If the values ​​on the ruler diverge or the distance is more than 14.5 cm, then in this case you need to make adjustments. It is worth noting that the full pedal travel should not be more than 146 mm. The cable guide cannot move in relation to the fork lever by more than 2.7 cm.

Cable

To make sure that the clutch cable on the Lada Grant requires repair or replacement, it is enough to carry out a simple check. To do this, you need to depress the pedal and quickly release it. The lever should return to its original position quickly and without any vibration. If it jerks and does not go smoothly, then the problem is guaranteed to be in this part of the clutch.

More detailed diagnostics can also be performed. To do this, the cable must be disconnected. It is also a good idea to see how easily it moves across the shirt. Sometimes it is enough to add a little lubricant to it.

Signs of clutch wear

SignCause and remedy
Incomplete engagement of the clutch (slips)Replacing discs, cleaning clutches
Incomplete shutdown (leading)Prevention of the clutch mechanism
Periodic jerksClutch cable wear, clutch replacement
Vibration, beating when shifting to higher gearsThe flywheel is bent, the gripper teeth are worn out. Replacing the flywheel and related consumables
Noise, creaking, grinding noise when activatedDamper spring wear, replacement with a new one, drive lubrication
Pedal free play is increased, exceeding 2 -3 mmTensioning the cable, replacing with a new one
You can hear the smell of burnt friction liningsDismantling the clutch block, replacing worn elements
Increased fuel consumptionFlywheel worn, teeth damaged
Reduced acceleration dynamicsReplacing clutches

How do I replace the clutch assembly or its components?

Many are also interested in the question of how the clutch is replaced. Next, we will consider the features of replacing a disc or other elements in the clutch units of Lada Granta, Prior and Kalin. Choosing a clutch is not difficult, since the market is represented by many offers. This aspect is influenced not only by individual preference, but also by the price factor.

The disc replacement process is identical, regardless of the modification of the designated VAZ models, including the Lada Granta. Having decided on the choice of element, we proceed to the direct replacement procedure.

  1. The initial action will be to dismantle the LADA Granta transmission unit.
  2. If you plan to reinstall the pressure plate (basket), you will need to first mark the location of the flywheel and housing. This manipulation allows you to save balancing and install the disk in a position identical to the element previously located here.
  3. Next, we mount a special bushing (mandrel) into the central hole of the pressure element. If such a mandrel is not observed, then it is possible to dismantle the assembly without it, but you will need to hold the driven disk during removal in order to prevent it from falling out.
  4. To eliminate the risk of the flywheel turning, we arm ourselves with a locking component (screwdriver or mounting blade).
  5. We unscrew the 6 bolts that hold the basket on the flywheel. The action should be characterized by uniformity and without completely removing first one screw, then the second, etc.
  6. Now we remove the casing together with the driven disk.
  7. Having detected the presence of damage on the surface of the assembly elements, the next step is a complete replacement of the clutch.
  8. We focus special attention on the degree of wear of the friction linings on the disk in LADA Granta. When it is discovered that they are oiled or the rivets are deepening, we urgently replace such an element. We check the rigidity of the damper springs. If they are found to be damaged, the disk must also be recycled. We inspect the disc for runout. If its value exceeds 1 mm, then this fact means the part is unsuitable for use.
  9. We inspect the pressure element and the flywheel, especially the plane of their contact. Areas with scuff marks, signs of overheating and wear are strictly unacceptable.
  10. We study in detail the condition of the disc spring, on the surface of which traces of the indicated defects are also unacceptable. The contact points of the petals of this part to the bearing device (“release”), which carries out the process of disengaging the clutch of the disc with the flywheel, must be in a single plane. No defects are appropriate in this case, and the discrepancy should not exceed 0.8 mm. If this parameter is not maintained, then a complete replacement of the clutch is necessary.
  11. Don't forget to inspect the spring support rings. It also excludes the presence of any defects.
  12. When, based on the completed set of testing manipulations, the fact of the need to replace certain elements of the clutch assembly or the entire assembly structure has been identified, then before starting work it will be necessary to monitor the characteristics of the movement of the driven disk along the corresponding section of the transmission unit shaft. If, during movement, the fact of jamming, jamming, or other aspects that do not allow free movement of the disk emerges, then these negative factors must be eliminated without fail. When achieving such a result is not possible, you should resort to replacing the entire list of defective parts.
  13. When carrying out the installation procedure, it is imperative to take into account the issue related to the correct installation of the driven disk in relation to the pressure component of the basket.
  14. First, we center the disk, using the mandrel we previously designated for these purposes. This will require careful consideration to ensure the element is positioned correctly in relation to the flywheel.
  15. Now we fix the basket directly to the flywheel using the bolts indicated here. We proceed by analogy with the dismantling procedure in terms of ensuring reliable retention of the flywheel from the risk of turning.
  16. Do not forget about the correct tightening of the basket fixing bolts. The procedure involves an algorithm of actions with uniform screwing of each of the fasteners. It is impossible to fully tighten one particular bolt, since such an action may cause the basket to skew, thereby causing incorrect operation and uneven wear of the clutch elements.
  17. The next step involves removing the previously installed mandrel from the corresponding recess in the center of the flywheel.
  18. After this, you can attach the transmission unit to the engine block.
  19. Now we mount the lower end of such a part as the clutch cable to the corresponding bracket on the gearbox housing, after which we carry out the previously indicated adjustment. Do not forget to install the compensation device in its original position, which will allow you to return the clutch cable to its original position. This procedure is necessary so that the compensation device, shifted to its lowest position, can signal to the owner that the disc is worn out. Replacement of the clutch cable in the LADA Granta has been completed.

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Replacing the clutch on a Lada Granta takes from 3 to 8 hours. Replacing the Lada Granta clutch is done only with the removal/installation of the gearbox. On some models, to remove the box you need to remove the subframe. It is best to determine what exactly to change: the disk, basket or release bearing after the box is removed.

The decision to replace the clutch on a Lada Granta must be made after diagnostics at a car service center. Some symptoms may be similar to a faulty transmission or gearshift mechanism. On robotic gearboxes (robot, isitronic, etc.), after replacing the clutch, you will need to adapt the grip point. This can be done at our stations.

Cost of replacing a clutch on a Lada Granta:

Replacement optionsPrice
Replacement of clutch Lada Granta, manual transmission, gasolinefrom 4500 rub.
Replacement of clutch Lada Granta, manual transmission, dieselfrom 5000 rub.
Lada Granta clutch replacement, DSG, robotfrom 8000 rub.
Clutch adaptation of Lada Grantafrom 2500 rub.
Removal/installation of Lada Granta subframefrom 3000 rub.

If you notice that the clutch begins to behave differently than before, we recommend that you immediately contact a car service for diagnostics. If you start this moment, then subsequently, in addition to replacing the clutch on the Lada Granta, you will also have to replace the flywheel. And the cost of a flywheel is several times higher than the cost of a clutch kit.

When replacing the clutch, we also recommend replacing the crankshaft rear oil seal and replacing the axle shaft seals

When replacing a clutch, a good mechanic will always pay attention to the condition of the gear selector rod seal. The cost of seals is minimal and it is better to do everything at once without overpaying for the same work in the future

Clutch adjustment methods

There are two methods for adjusting the clutch. When regulating it in the first way, you must:

  • pick up the tip, after which it is pulled forward to the maximum possible value;
  • Use a caliper to measure the distance between the leash and the fork, normally it is 27 mm;
  • If you find any problems, adjust the length of the cable by tightening the thread;
  • Next, you should press the clutch three times and make sure that it functions normally.

If problems arise, take new measurements with a caliper (the distance from one extreme point to the other cannot exceed 146 mm). If this indicator is exceeded, a new cable must be installed.

The second adjustment method is an alternative, thanks to which you can adjust the clutch without a caliper. The beginning of alternative adjustment is no different from adjusting the clutch in the first way. When the leash is snug against the fork, you depress the clutch three times, then open the hood to make sure that the leash is pressed to the metal as before? One of the mandatory conditions for adjustment is the complete absence of movement of the fork or its minimal mobility (not exceeding 2 mm).

Each car owner can use both the first and second methods, since the automatic adjustment system still will not relieve him of the obligation to periodically carry out the work described above. Remember - even with a properly functioning cable, you still need to open the hood of your car at least from time to time.

Don’t forget one more recommendation from experienced car owners: to make adjustments, don’t wait for obvious problems to appear in the clutch. It is best to carry it out regularly (once every 10,000 km), because adjustment will help you protect yourself from clutch problems. And when carrying out this procedure again, do not forget to also evaluate the condition of the cable. If cracks or thinning are found on it, it is recommended to replace the part immediately.

Sources

  • https://FB.ru/article/465967/stseplenie-ladyi-granta-obzor-vozmojnyie-neispravnosti-i-otzyivyi
  • https://evrasia-today.ru/skolko-hodit-stseplenie-na-grante/
  • https://vaz-remont.ru/kak-zamenit-vyzhimnoj-podshipnik-na-lada-granta-svoimi-silami/
  • https://Vaz-Lada-Granta.com/dvigatel-korobka/zamenit-tros-stsepleniya.html
  • https://cartore.ru/153-kogda-menyat-sceplenie-srok-sluzhby-i-kak-proverit.html
  • https://new-granta.ru/sceplenie/
  • https://remont-avtovaz.ru/instrukciya-po-zamene-scepleniya-na-lade-grante/
  • https://www.spike.su/index.php/%D0%92%D1%8B%D0%B6%D0%B8%D0%BC%D0%BD%D0%BE%D0%B9-%D0% BF%D0%BE%D0%B4%D1%88%D0%B8%D0%BF%D0%BD%D0%B8%D0%BA-%D0%9B%D0%B0%D0%B4%D0%B0 -%D0%93%D1%80%D0%B0%D0%BD%D1%82%D0%B0.html

Manual transmission diagnostics and repair services

The car transmission needs professional diagnostics: our auto center is equipped with the most modern equipment to detect and fix any problems. Computer testing makes it possible to accurately localize faults and determine ways to eliminate them. The employee will determine the cause of the breakdown and list the spare parts needed to restore the operation of the gearbox.

Gearbox repair is carried out in several stages:

  1. Diagnostics and removal from the car. After this, a complete disassembly and troubleshooting is carried out: a specialist determines the degree of damage to the parts and compiles a list of components that will have to be replaced. The owner can be present during disassembly and troubleshooting: the technician will tell you in detail about the identified damage and the cost of eliminating it.
  2. Installation of new components to replace worn ones. The employee will list the parts that urgently need replacement, and which it is desirable to replace in the near future.
  3. Assembling a manual transmission after repair and installing it on a car. After this, testing and running-in are carried out: the specialist will make sure that there are no more problems with gear shifting.
  4. Manual transmission repairs are completed by issuing a warranty card valid for up to 2 years. The service center bears full responsibility for the results of the employees’ work; the guarantee gives the right to eliminate repeated problems free of charge.

Replacing a manual transmission

A complete gearbox replacement is one of the most difficult types of car repair: this operation requires special equipment and tools, as well as the experience of specialists. It is necessary to change the gearbox in case of serious damage, when it is impossible to limit yourself to reinstalling only one part. To solve the problem at minimal cost, use the services of our service center specialists: you have dozens of completed orders on your account.

Replacing the gearbox is carried out with a careful selection of suitable spare parts: our technicians will install high-quality parts and carry out all the necessary settings. In many situations, a complete replacement is cheaper than a major overhaul; a specialist will suggest the most economical solution.

In order for the gearbox to last longer, it is necessary to carry out timely maintenance: this includes a professional inspection, replacing the transmission fluid, and eliminating minor problems. Replacing a manual transmission most often becomes the result of untimely and unprofessional maintenance: if the driver does not follow the manufacturer’s recommendations, the parts wear out much faster. Our employees will solve the problem in the shortest possible time. and troubleshooting will require very little cost.

Why should you contact us?

The Premium Color workshop specializes specifically in transmission repair: our auto center is equipped with all the necessary equipment to identify and eliminate problems with manual and automatic transmissions. It is beneficial to use our services for several reasons:

  • Favorable prices for the installation of components, as well as for complete replacement of the gearbox. Fix any problems without extra costs, the technician will choose the most economical repair option.
  • Highly qualified personnel. Our service center employs only experienced specialists who are well versed in typical malfunctions of domestic automotive products.
  • Minimum lead times for orders. In order not to waste time waiting, you can call in advance and agree on a repair time with the technician. We are always ready to help you: call today and choose a convenient day.

Do not delay until later contacting a service center and troubleshooting transmission problems. Problems with gear shifting impair vehicle handling and can lead to accidents on the road. To avoid accidents and breakdowns with expensive repairs, call us and arrange a time to fix the problem. Check out our auto repair shop price list to make sure we offer affordable repairs.

Sources

  • https://www.autosecret.net/lada-granta-vaz2190/transmissija-lada-granta/1356-snjatie-korobki-perekljuchenija-peredach
  • https://avtozam.com/vaz/lada-granta/zamena-masla-v-korobke/
  • https://remont-korobok-peredah.ru/uslugi/remont-korobki-peredach-lada-kalina-lada-granta/
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