Instructions for replacing tie rod ends on Lada Kalina

A car is a complex complex of various systems that are inextricably linked. The failure of one unit can provoke unpleasant consequences for both the car and the driver. Almost all mechanisms included in the control system operate in difficult conditions: large amounts of dirt, dust, water, snow, chemical reagents, negative temperatures. For this reason, they are very vulnerable, and their technical condition must be treated with increased attention, especially when operating a vehicle on unpaved roads.

Removing the Kalina steering rack

You will need: heads “10”, “13”, “15”, “17”, “27”, a spanner “19”, pliers, a mounting blade, a hammer, a flat-head screwdriver.
Inside, unscrew the nut and remove the bolt securing the lower cardan joint to the steering gear shaft (steering rack), using a 13mm socket. If the bolt turns, hold it with a 13mm wrench.

In the engine compartment:

1. Unscrew the upper fastening nut of the steering rack casing using a 10mm socket.
2. Unscrew the 2 nuts securing the steering rack casing from the bottom of the car with a “10” socket.
3. Remove the casing.

We hang the front part of the car and remove the wheels. To remove the steering rack without tie rods, they should be disconnected:

1. Remove the locking plate of the steering linkage bolts by prying it up with a screwdriver. Then unscrew the 2 bolts securing the steering rods to the rack.
2. Unscrew the nuts securing the steering rack brackets to the front panel using a 13mm socket.
3. Move the steering rack forward, removing the pinion shaft from the hole in the front panel.
4. Remove the Kalina steering rack along with the rods.

To remove the steering rack along with the tie rods, then you need to disconnect the tie rod ends from the swing arms of the shock absorber struts, to do this:

1. Remove the cotter pin using pliers.
2. Unscrew the ball pin fastening nut partly using a 19mm spanner.
3. Loosen the tie rod end pinch bolt using a 17mm socket.
4. We press the ball pin out of the lever by inserting a mounting blade between the swing arm and the tip, pressing the tip away from the lever, and striking the end of the swing arm with a hammer.

1. Unscrew the ball stud mounting nut completely.
2. Remove the ball pin from the hole in the swing arm.
3. Unclip the tie rod end groove using a screwdriver.
4. Unscrew the tip, holding the adjusting threaded bushing with a 27 wrench. We count the number of turns in order to screw the tip the same number of turns when installing. At the same time, we maintain the position of the threaded bushing on the steering rod. This will help approximately maintain the same wheel toe angle.

We remove the Kalina steering rack along with the rods:

Replacing the steering rack on a VAZ 1117-VAZ 1119

Note! Follow the terms: in the article we will call the rack a steering mechanism, because in front-wheel drive VAZ cars this is the case.

Removal

We recommend removing the front wheels from the car and placing it on blocks or two jacks (Satya will help you remove the wheels correctly: “Replacing wheels on cars”). Then be sure to remove the battery (read “in this article”) and disconnect the steering shaft from the steering rack. To do this, while in the cabin and having two 13mm wrenches, unscrew the bolt nut and remove the bolt (photo 1) that tightens the steering shaft clamp with the steering rack gear. Pry apart the clamp using a strong screwdriver or similar (Photo 2).

Note! Before unscrewing the nut of the tension clamp bolt, be sure to place the wheels level. This will help to avoid installation difficulties and you will not have to rearrange the steering wheel after replacing the rack.

Disconnect the two tie rod ends (on both sides) from the levers (for details, see the article: “Replacing tie rod ends on a VAZ”), then the four steering rack mounting nuts (two on each side). When faced with difficulties, WD-40 will help you: apply and let the lubricant penetrate inside for 5-7 minutes, then unscrew them (photo 1) and two metal clamps (one indicated by a blue arrow) that attach the rail to the body. Carefully remove the rack by hand through the left wheel arch (left side towards the car). Think about whether it is necessary to remove the steering rods? It happens that a new rack comes without rods, in this case, remove it from yours, if they are in good condition, of course, and transfer it to a new one. A flat-head screwdriver will help you do this: pry up the plate and remove it from the bolts securing both rods (photo 2), then apply WD-40 penetrating lubricant to the bolts, they are unscrewed (one bolt secures one rod, photo 3), removed and the rods are disconnected from the rack ( photo 4).

Note! If you did not remove the front wheels, loosen the lug nuts a little, then lift the left side of the car so that the wheel is lifted off the ground and continue unscrewing. We remind you that it is better to remove the wheels.

Installation

The new rack is installed in the reverse order of removal. Make sure that the rack is in a level position (in the position of straight-line vehicle movement, the wheels are straight). Make sure that the marks on the boot and crankcase coincide with each other, make sure that the flat on the gear shaft is on the right, as shown in the photo below. If the mark is knocked down, turn the staff all the way (in any direction), then move the staff in the other direction one full turn until the marks match.

Note! When tightening the rack fastening nuts, lubricate them and the studs with grease: they will not oxidize and rust. After a couple of years, you can easily unscrew the nuts again even without the help of WD-40!

Basic steering rack faults

Seal leakage

French and Japanese cars usually suffer from leaks in the input shaft seals. It occurs due to corrosion of the oil seal area.

2. Leaking power seals and corrosion of the steering column shaft

This problem occurs when water gets in through the rod boots.

Worn steering rack center tooth

Due to the fact that the steering wheel remains in the central position most of the time, the vast majority of all loads fall on the central part of the rack.

5. Knocks of the support bushing

The support bushings are designed to centralize the shaft in the steering rack housing; when it wears out, the shaft begins to knock on the rack housing.

Knocks of the pressure block

Over time, a sample forms on the surface of the cracker and the gasket wears off. At the same time, the cracker begins to knock on the steering rack, dangling in its body.

Steering wheel turns tight to one side

This effect is observed when the hydraulic fluid is contaminated and grooves are formed inside the distributor.

Tight steering in both directions

There could be many reasons:

• grooves described above.
• The Teflon ring on the piston could rupture.
• wear of the working pair could have occurred on the pump.
• The distributor torsion bar could have broken.

Diagnostics of the Kalina steering rack

So, dear readers, by replacing the bushing, repair the Kalina steering rack

It is only worth it if the right end of the rail is in perfect condition. If there is rust on it (as it was for me), then it will act as an abrasive and will “eat” the nylon bushing quite quickly. The right edge of the “rasp” should shine like a mirror, only then it will not break the sleeve.

Check the condition of the right edge of the rack

quite simple

To do this, you need to carefully cut off the plastic clamp that secures the long right boot, then remove this boot and, turning the steering wheel to the left, visually inspect the right end of the rack that has emerged from the body

I advise you to carry out such a diagnosis

before removing the rack from the vehicle. And in general, if you are going to solve the problem with the rack yourself, then I sincerely wish you to remove and install it only once, because the process of installing the rack is quite complicated and can cause discomfort, especially if it needs to be repeated.

In the article about I already mentioned how to determine that a knock

comes precisely from the Kalina steering rack

.
To do this, open the hood and give the steering rod a good tug with your hand
.
A serviceable steering rack bushing
will not allow the rods to move even a millimeter, but with a “broken” bushing, the rods will shake.

At the beginning of this video you can clearly see the play of the steering rack after a run of 164 t.km, and at the end - a new steering rack after a run of 3 t.km.

As you can see, there is no play on the new rack. If

on your Kalina the steering rods do not hang out

, which means
it is NOT the rack that is knocking
.

Correct fault determination

1. The right edge of the rack should shine, otherwise a steering rack repair kit is needed.
2. The presence of even the slightest traces of rust, which will act as an abrasive material, is not allowed.
3. You should check the integrity of the bushing: if it knocks or shows signs of wear, it needs to be replaced.
4. It is necessary to carefully inspect all the fasteners: if places with loose clamps are found, tighten them.

You need to be very careful with the last factor. Excessive physical force will only do harm here. If you decide to diagnose and replace it yourself, you must use lubricant and a wrench. A heavily threaded bolt or nut simply requires the use of oil. In some cases, it can be moved 1-3 divisions, but do not despair. This is enough for a visual inspection.

If no signs of physical wear or rust are detected, you can return the nut to its place with your own hands. This will require a wrench and extreme concentration. Carefully pull the element to the desired level and fix it. There is 1 practical tip associated with the mentioned element: when driving intensively, you need to tighten the steering rack nut every 6 months.

There shouldn’t be any difficulties, because information on how to tighten the part is contained in the vehicle’s operating instructions.

Design features

The structure of the Lada Kalina steering unit includes:

• electric amplifier;
• steering column, adjustable for reach and tilt;
• electric power steering rack with gear ratio change mechanism;
• rods with tips, as well as rotary levers.

In the mechanism housing there is a unit with mechanical gearing, where the main operating element is a helical gear, the pitch of the teeth of which varies depending on the length of the rack.

The figure shows the design of the Lada Kalina rack and pinion unit.

The pressure in the rack-and-pinion pair is carried out by means of a spring, and the plastic liner present is designed to reduce the friction force. The compression level of the spring element is adjusted using a nut. The factory gap between the steering shaft and the rack is 0.1 mm in the LADA Kalina model.

If a knock appears inside the unit, it can be eliminated by adjusting the gap with your own hands. The steering shaft is centered using two bearings, one of which is located in the column bracket, and the second is located inside the electric power steering housing. The bracket is connected both to the pedal mounting unit, or rather to its front part, and to the body. Structurally, the bracket together with the pipe forms a hinged connection from a pair of plates. This unit provides a change in the position of the steering wheel, where the width of the range of movement is limited by slots in the designated plates.

The specific position of the pipe is fixed by a lever, which is connected to a special bushing that performs an adjustment mission. It is screwed onto a coupling bolt located just in the slots of the plates. When the lever is turned, the sleeve rotates synchronously. At this moment, the fixation of the plate weakens, and the steering wheel begins to change its position. Springs located in the middle of the bracket and plates, when the fastening is loosened, pull the pipe in the upward direction.

Let us repeat, the steering unit of the Lada Kalina has two rods and rotary levers. The rod design includes two tips, one of which is external, and the second is internal. The process of adjusting the length of the rod is carried out by rotating the threaded bushing present here. Having completed the adjustment manipulation, the position of the tips should be fixed with specially designed bolts. The outer rod end is connected to the swing arm bracket via a ball joint.

The power steering mechanism, operating on an electric drive, changes its degree of gain depending on the driving speed. When the car is stopped, the amplifier produces maximum torque, and the steering wheel turns very easily. As the speed increases, the force on the steering wheel of the Lada Kalina increases, which is facilitated by a decrease in the torque generated by this unit. The mechanism is based on an electric motor, which transmits rotation through a gearbox “hidden” under the column casing. The amplifier is controlled using an electronic unit, which is supplied with impulses from speed sensors, recognizes the amount of force when rotating the steering column shaft, and also reads the number of revolutions of the engine shaft. The instrument panel has a special indicator that allows you to monitor the operation of the amplifier.

Vulnerabilities in the Lada Kalina steering system

The weak links in the steering system are the ball joints. According to the service manual, replacement of steering tips on Kalina should be done when the odometer reaches 80 thousand km. However, practice proves that on average they travel up to 40 thousand km, although exceptions do occur.

The service life of the part that serves as an intermediary between the rod and the strut directly depends on driving style and the condition of the road surface as a whole. Indirect factors are:

• operating conditions (dust, sand, salt quickly damage rubbing surfaces);
• unit assembly culture;
• quality and accuracy of manufactured components;
• durability of passive protection (reliability of boot).

A high level of organization of the sequence of repair operations consists of:

• cleaning mating surfaces;
• use of high-quality lubricant for friction joints;
• monitoring the tightening force of bolted joints.

What are tie rod ends used for?

Steering tips are responsible for turning the wheels, both on Kalina and on other cars. If the steering rack did not have movable tips, then there would be no question of any softness of the suspension when hitting bumps and getting into potholes.

Tie rod ends operate on the ball joint principle. But do not confuse the ball joint with the steering ends - these are different parts.

On Kalina, good quality steering ends usually last from 20 to 50 thousand kilometers. If a person takes care of the pendant, then the tips take longer to take care of.

The service life directly depends on the following factors:

• quality of roads;
• season;
• driving style.

Steering tips serve to transmit driving force from the steering column to the wheels. At the same time, all steering tips are hinged.

All tie rods are similar in design. So, replacing these parts, which are considered consumables, most often follows the same algorithm.

When should you think about replacing the steering tips in the control system on Kalina and why?

Ideally, it is necessary to inspect the important components of the technical part of the car before each trip. But very often there is not enough time for the mini-diagnosis process. The control system must be reliable, since it directly affects the safety of movement.

By shaking the hinge with your hand, you can first determine the serviceability of the hinge, as evidenced by the absence of play. Wear of the pin that secures the part to the strut affects the behavior of the car. It reacts sluggishly to sudden rotations of the steering wheel, which is unacceptable in critical situations.

In addition, a knocking noise appears when driving over small irregularities. The reason lies in the formation of an unacceptable gap in the mating parts.

How to put the steering wheel straight on Kalina?

After repairing or replacing the steering rack, it is not always possible to position the steering wheel so that it faces straight, so many car enthusiasts have a question: how can Kalina place the steering wheel straight? Indeed, when the steering wheel is straight when driving in a straight line, it is not only pleasant, but also convenient. It's just easier to hold on to.

To then set the steering wheel straight , first, while driving in a straight line, make a mark at the top point of the steering wheel, and when you arrive at the repair site, place the steering wheel so that this point is at the very top. Next, pull the central part of the steering wheel towards you, it will detach and end up in your hands.

The horn terminals must be disconnected, the central part of the steering wheel can be put aside.

Using a 24mm wrench, unscrew the nut securing the steering wheel to the steering shaft.

Don't forget to mark the position of the steering wheel relative to the shaft with a marker.

Now we take the steering wheel with both hands (at 9 and 3 o’clock) and, alternately shaking each hand towards and away from us, carefully remove the steering wheel from the splines of the steering shaft. As soon as the steering wheel is removed from the splines, turn it to the position you need (that is, put it straight) and put it back on the splines. Now, when driving straight, your steering wheel will also point straight.

My steering wheel was slightly skewed to the right, so I moved it one slot to the left, like this:

Classification of steering mechanism faults into groups:

• large play (free play) of the steering wheel;
• the presence of extraneous noises, knocks and creaks while driving a car in different modes (creaking, knocking, for example, can only happen when turning right or only when going uphill);
• tight turn of the steering wheel.

Causes of malfunctions:

1. The tie rod nuts have become loose.
2. The steering tips and silent blocks are worn out.
3. The nuts securing the entire steering mechanism (RM) have become loose.
4. There is a large gap between the nut and the adjusting rod.

Troubleshoot problems by tightening bolted connections, replacing tips and silent blocks.

If the steering wheel on your Kalina car has become very difficult to turn, then the reasons for this may be:

1. The bearings of the upper support of the steering column upper universal joint (RC) are worn out.
2. The steering rack support bushing is worn or damaged.
3. The telescopic strut of the front suspension broke.
4. The electric power steering (EPS) does not work.
5. Low pressure in the front wheels.

The fifth reason can be easily eliminated with your own hands. To eliminate other causes of problems, you will have to contact a car mechanic or study the device and replacement procedure yourself.

There are also worm and screw types of steering. Some people are interested in whether it is possible to install a mechanism of a different operating principle instead of the standard rack and pinion mechanism for driving a car. Answer: It is possible, it is possible, but is it necessary? It is better not to change the factory design at as many critical components as the machine control unit.

Repair kit for repairing or replacing the Lada Kalina steering rack

A properly functioning steering mechanism is one of the main conditions for ensuring the safety of any vehicle. If the owner of a Lada Kalina detects suspicious signs of failure of any component components of this unit, then he urgently needs to take effective measures to find and eliminate the malfunction. The main characteristic symptom of problems is knocking.

It is clearly audible when driving over bumps or when turning the steering wheel while driving. When the owner determines that the steering rack requires steering rack repair, then he has two options: go to the station to the experts or dare to repair the steering rack on his own. You can make the replacement with your own hands; of course, it is not easy and troublesome, but nevertheless it is possible.

Replacement instructions

We put the car on a jack and unscrew the wheel. If you wish, you can put the car on 2 jacks at once and remove both wheels. But I prefer to change the tips one by one.

To make it easier to unscrew the tip fastening nut, pre-treat it with any penetrating lubricant. for example WD40 and let it sit for a few minutes.

We turn the wheel out to make it easier to unscrew the tip.

Now, using a 17mm wrench, unscrew the nut securing the tip to the rod.

Next, straighten and pull out the cotter pin, then use a 19mm wrench to unscrew the nut securing the steering tip to the rack.

Now, using a puller, we pull the tip out of the groove of the stand; if there is no puller, we simply knock it out.

So, unscrew the old tip, clockwise! If the adjusting sleeve starts to unscrew, hold it with a wrench.

We install the new tip, counting the turns, and reassemble in the reverse order, not forgetting to insert the cotter pin.

Determining the degree of tip wear

You can see the play if you press the tip body several times with a pry bar resting on the stand cup.

If the tips are to be replaced, they will have significant play . To check we do the following:

1. Turn the wheel out.
2. Pressing the hinge with your finger from below, press the upper part of the part with your palm. The slightest play indicates the need to replace the element.

In addition, the malfunction of the steering tips is clearly visible when driving . If the car drives over uneven surfaces, a fairly strong kickback is felt in the steering wheel . When driving on a flat road, slightly rock the steering wheel from side to side. The appearance of play indicates that it is time to change the consumables.

Features of replacing tie rod ends on Lada Kalina

To begin with, here is a list of tools that will be needed to perform this type of repair. I’ll say right away that this information is slightly different from the manual that was written by the “Third Rome”; they were probably mistaken. Here's what you need:

• Balloon wrench
• Jack
• Open-end wrenches for 17 and 19
• Pliers
• Torque wrench (when tightening)
• Crowbar and hammer (instead of a puller, if you don’t have one)

For those who like to watch everything live, I decided to make a video where I clearly showed everything:

And below will be a step-by-step photo report on the work done, if suddenly the video is not displayed.

First, we tear off the wheel bolts and jack up the car, the side where we are going to repair. Then we remove the wheel and be sure to apply penetrating lubricant to all threaded connections of the tip: to the pin and the tie bolt. One more thing: when performing the procedure on the left side, we turn the steering wheel all the way to the right, respectively, when replacing it on the right, we turn it all the way to the left. It will be more convenient to work this way.

Then we unscrew the coupling bolt, not necessarily all the way, the main thing is that the thread becomes looser. This bolt is located in the place shown in the photo:

Then we straighten the lower cotter pin of the tip nut and remove it with pliers:

Then you can unscrew the nut with a spanner or open-end wrench:

Next, we take a pry bar, if there is no special puller, and insert it between the swing arm of the stand and the tip. We press harder, as if trying to lift the tip up, and at this time we hit the rotary lever with a hammer exactly in the place where the finger sits. This is shown more clearly in the photograph:

After several strong blows of the hammer and under the influence of the lever from the mount, the steering tip should jump out of the hole in the swing arm, as shown above.

Then we take it by the tip and lift it up, thereby finally releasing it:

Now you can unscrew it from the steering rod

Please note that you must turn clockwise

Attention! Be sure to count the number of turns until the tip is completely turned out. If this is not done, then there may be serious problems with the alignment of the front wheels.

And if you count and remember the number of revolutions you made, then you can approximately put everything the same as it was before the replacement.

I got 23.5 turns on the left side and 21.5 turns on the right side. Your data may differ.

The result of the work done was as follows:

Now we take the new tip needed in this case (the right and left are different!) and twist it counterclockwise with the same number of turns as when unscrewing.

We tighten the coupling bolt into place, but the nut securing the tip to the swing arm should be tightened with a certain torque. Once again, my Ombra torque wrench, which had been lying around for quite some time, came in handy. The tightening torque of this connection should be between 27 and 33 Nm. I turned it up to 70 Nm according to the manual from the Third Rome, for which “many thanks” to them, there are jambs on every page in their book! After which I had to weaken it when I checked it in other sources.

Don’t forget to insert the locking pin into the pin hole and bend its edges. That's all the replacement, the end result of which is shown in the picture below:

Replacement on the second side is carried out in the same sequence. The price of new steering tips for the Lada Kalina is about 600 rubles per pair.

As a result, after testing it on the road, the steering wheel immediately became noticeably more collected, knocks and vibrations on the steering wheel stopped being heard, and the reaction to turns is now immediate, which is something I’ve been missing lately. In short, there is now no looseness or wobbling, all that remains is to check the balls and, if necessary, replace them, but more on that a little later!

Reasons for replacement

Steering tips on the Lada Kalina are exposed to environmental influences and mechanical stress when driving on bad roads. All this leads to their damage and can create an emergency situation. For this reason, it is necessary to carry out regular inspections and identify emerging defects.

The first thing you need to pay attention to is the protective covers, or anthers. They must be filled with lubricant, there are no cracks or mechanical damage on the cover. Otherwise, immediate replacement of the Kalina steering tip boot is required.

A malfunction caused by wear on the joint can be identified by increased play in the steering wheel. Signs appear when the car is moving at low speeds. Damage to the hinge can also be detected by the characteristic knocking sound of the suspension during a turn.

A more accurate diagnosis is carried out by placing the car on a pit or overpass. You need to ask an assistant to shake the steering wheel, while the steering tip should not move along the axis of the finger by more than one and a half millimeters. Otherwise, the part requires replacement. In order to make sure there is play, you should check everything again. With both hands, shake the tip strictly in a vertical direction - if there is wear, play will certainly appear.

Analogs of tips

There are also many analogues that are available in any store:

1. Manufactured by "TRACK" with indexes TR70-107 and TR70-108 (left and right tips, respectively) - cost from 400 rubles and more.
2. HOFER HF-812002 are sold as a set for the left and right sides. The cost of the set is at least 700 rubles.
3. "BELMAG" BM-1118-3414056/57, also sold in sets of two tips, cost 800 rubles and more.

These are indicative prices, you need to build on them. If you come across a set of TRACK tips for 900 rubles (and these may be on sale), then these are most likely high-quality products. But if they cost 500 rubles or less, then this is an obvious fake - you should not trust such mechanisms.

How to adjust the spring and tune the amplifier?

Rail

The spring requires adjustment due to its natural tendency to stretch over time. The tightening should be done after disconnecting the steering unit shaft. The action does not imply the need to remove the entire mechanism from the car.

Repairing the steering rack involves correctly setting the amount of gap observed between the shaft gear and the rack itself.

1. To do this, the rack assembly will need to be set to the central position and secured against spontaneous displacement.
2. Remove the rubber plug.
3. Place the indicator probe inside the opened hole and make sure it comes into contact with the stop (close).
4. We rotate the gear shaft, with the help of which the stop is pushed out. We measure the length of its movement with an indicator, which should be within 0.05 mm.

If we observe an excess of the measured value beyond the designated limit, we resort to eliminating it by rotating the adjusting nut. After completing the procedure, we check whether the electric power steering rack rotates easily in the crankcase by rotating the steering wheel all the way in both directions.

Note that the adjusting nut should be rotated with a special wrench. Do not try to tighten this nut with great force, as this may cause difficulty in turning the steering wheel, especially in extreme positions. It is advisable to make adjustments in stages. First, turn the key 20-25 degrees and check the assembly for absence of knocking during the rack movement. If the knocking does not disappear, then we add the angle of rotation by about 10-15 degrees and again resort to control. It happens that a lift does not lead to the expected result. This hints at repairs, and perhaps only the steering rack will need to be replaced.

Tightening and adjusting the rack

During the operation of the vehicle, natural wear and tear occurs on the contacting parts, including the PM rack. The presence of such wear can be easily recognized by the characteristic knocking sound of the mechanism at low speeds on uneven roads. This sound also produces a vibration that you can feel through the steering wheel. The initial stage of wear is easy to eliminate; this requires adjustment of the Kalina steering rack, which is easy to do with your own hands.

First of all, you need to loosen the three clamps on the air duct pipe:

• on the mass air flow sensor,
• on the crankcase ventilation pipe,
• on the throttle assembly.

After removing the air duct pipe, a large enough space opens up so that you can stick your hand in with a special wrench to adjust the rack and tighten the nut on the end of the PM crankcase. By turning the adjusting nut a quarter turn clockwise, you can begin installing the disassembled pipe and testing the machine. If the knocking noise has disappeared and when the car is moving, the steering wheel automatically returns from its extreme position, then the adjustment was made correctly. If the steering wheel does not return, you have over-tightened the rack. You will have to perform all the procedures again and loosen it somewhat, and then check again. If the knocking noise does not disappear when the nut is fully screwed in, then replacing the steering rack on Kalina is inevitable.

Installation of the Kalina steering mechanism

Before installation, check that the rail is installed in the middle position. To do this, using sliding pliers, use the flat on the gear shaft to rotate the shaft in any direction until it stops, then turn the shaft in the opposite direction two full turns and turn the shaft so that the flat on the shaft is located vertically on the right side along the direction of the car. Otherwise, the installation of the rack is carried out in the reverse order.

Thus, it will take at least 1 hour to replace the steering rack on Kalina. If it is not possible to repair it, then you will have to buy a new one. The steering rack of the Lada Kalina is the same as the rack of the Priora or VAZ 2110-2112 of the new model and has a catalog number: 11183-3400010 (rasp inside 21100-3401068). Price approximately 3500 rub. For Kalina Sport:

• 11183-3400010-10 inside rasp 11183-3401068-00 (3.1 turns)
• 11183-3400010-12 inside rasp 11183-3401068-01
• 11183-3400010-01 without EUR inside rasp 21100-3401068-00 (4.1 turns)
• 11183-3400010-10 with EUR inside rasp 11183-3401223-00

Steering rack Kalina 2: 11183-3401068

By the way, do you know how to adjust the steering rack?

Operating principle and design of rack and pinion steering mechanism

When the steering wheel rotates, torque is transmitted through the column shaft through a helical gear to the rack, which is connected to rods that change the angle of rotation of the wheel hub. The working pair in the rack and pinion mechanism is the helical gear located on the column shaft and the PM rack.

Kalina's steering rack is placed in an aluminum housing (case), which includes a helical gear connected to the column shaft. The helical drive gear meshes with a rack and is supported by two bearings and a bushing on the crankcase. The rack also has an oblique tooth with a variable pitch, with a smaller pitch on the peripheral part. As a result, the driving behavior becomes more natural and comfortable, and the steering wheel angles are reduced. In a car with a variable ratio rack, the steering range of rotation is 720°. In this case, the driver, turning the wheel one revolution, reaches the right or left stop. During linear motion, the gear shaft is in the zone of straight teeth. When cornering or maneuvering, the steering responds more dynamically. In the area of ​​the rack, which has oblique teeth, the gear ratio decreases rapidly as the steering angle increases.

For fans of fast driving, a Kalina Sport steering rack can be installed, which has a gear ratio of 3.1, unlike other models, in which this figure is 4.02. This shortened version allows you to feel the car better, but increases the risk when driving at high speeds.