Installation of stove 2108 on cornfield 21214

The stove on the VAZ 2121, 2131 has a number of advantages and disadvantages. One of them is associated with an electric fan, which not only blows weakly, but also makes a lot of noise and whistles during operation. Replacing it with a new type fan will solve only part of the problems. As practice shows, it is better to install an additional fan from the figure eight “snail” type.

The point of the modernization is to install on the Niva an additional electric fan from the VAZ 2108, which will be located in the engine compartment inside the air intake, where it is normally positioned at figure eight. Let us remind you that the standard Niva 4x4 fan is located inside a plastic box in the cabin.

You will need: a figure-eight stove fan with a casing (catalog number: 2108-8101091).

The fan control can be left as standard, then there will be the least amount of modifications. Or use additional parts from the VAZ 2108:

an additional heater resistor (article: 2108-8101081), which will need to be placed in the air intake next to the fan;
fan speed switch (2108-3709608), which is mounted on a panel in the SUV interior.

Revision instructions

Remove the air intake box (popularly called “boot”):

In the interior, unscrew 4 nuts using a 10mm wrench;
In the engine compartment, an assistant holds the bolts with the same key;
Remove the air intake.

Remake the “boot” and install a fan in it:

Cut off part of the plastic a little from the side so that the fan housing does not interfere with the hood lock;
We cut off all the protruding parts of the fan mount and place it inside the “boot”;
Secure the fan, securing its housing with sealant.

We close the space around the fan nozzle with suitable material to prevent air outflow;
We install the casing with the fan in place, laying the wires;
We check that the hood closes without problems.

The result should be a design as shown in the video:

The damper can be left in place, but if it is removed, there will be no additional obstruction to the air flow into the cabin.

Fan replacement

Experienced car owners recommend not stopping there and continuing to modify the stove by tuning the fan.

Some people suggest getting rid of the fan installed by the manufacturer and installing a figure eight fan instead.

If you also decide to carry out such a replacement, you need to additionally decide whether you will leave the original control of the stove or also replace it with a “eight” analogue.

Having decided on the second option, take care of purchasing the following additional items:

fan speed switch;

additional resistor for the stove.

So, after you have completely prepared all the necessary components, you can proceed directly to the process of modifying the fan.

Initially, you should dismantle the old air supply box. Unfortunately, despite the fact that this requires unscrewing only four nuts, it will not be possible to do this without outside help. Your partner will need to hold the screws under the hood while you unscrew them using a wrench.

After this, you can easily remove the air intake. Clean it if it needs it, and then cut away a small amount of the plastic to provide enough space for the new fan to operate.

Install the fan and carefully inspect for anything that may interfere with the operation of the installed fan. If you find such obstacles, carefully cut them off.

Once you are sure that there is nothing else that can prevent the fan from working, secure it with sealant. There are small gaps around the fan nozzle; it is important to eliminate them by covering them with any material. This will prevent warm air from escaping.

Now the assembled fan is being introduced back into the space in which its old counterpart previously “lived”. Everything is securely fastened and the closing and opening of the hood is checked. In some cases, after the introduction of a “foreign” fan, it is not possible to close the hood normally.

If everything is fine, reconnect all wires and install new controls. Upon completion of the work, be sure to check your results in action.

The stove should work perfectly, and warm air should spread very quickly inside the car.

What did you improve?

The modernized stove has a number of advantages:

Quiet, and at 1st speed silent.
Productive, at speed 1 it blows at the level of speed 2 of the old fan. At maximum speed, dust will fly out of the air ducts.

Such tuning of the heating system is mandatory for drivers of northern cities. Have you improved the Niva 4x4 stove in this way? Write reviews and additions on this modernization, take part in the survey. Let us remind you that other modifications to the SUV are published in this category.

Photo: Flea in-flight magazine

Keywords: Niva stove | Niva air ducts

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Heater VAZ 2121, 21213, 21214, 2131 modernized, in collection. with body

The heater is designed for installation on VAZ 2121, 21213, 21214, 2131, Lada 4×4 cars.

The heater is a plastic housing with a built-in electric motor and air blower.

It has a number of advantages over a standard heater:

The motor is easy to install. Practical silent operation.
Three-position switch.
Increased heating speed and air flow into the cabin.

The serial motor with a fan in the cabin can be removed (removal/installation steps are carried out in accordance with routine maintenance), but if you want to have a spare option, you can leave it. In this case, the old motor with an impeller will provide some resistance to air movement

Heater assembly Airflow mode switch Wiring harness Fasteners Air flow distributor

1. The serial motor with a fan in the cabin can be removed (removal/installation steps are carried out in accordance with routine maintenance), but if you want to have a spare option, you can leave it. In this case, the old motor with the impeller will provide some resistance to air movement. 2. If desired, the standard heater can be kept in working order as a backup. In this case, it will be necessary to connect an additional positive wire to the new heater and take into account that the simultaneous operation of both heaters will create an increased load on the vehicle’s on-board electrical network, which is extremely undesirable.

By clicking on the button you will receive all the information on delivery and payment of the method convenient for you to receive the goods. Our employees will calculate for you the most profitable method of delivering the goods you have chosen.

Pickup for everyone who is convenient in Moscow to independently pick up and pay for the goods you have chosen.

Delivery by mail or EMS Post. It is preferable for buyers who live in areas where there are no branches of transport companies nearby. Some goods can be sent by mail (restrictions on weight and dimensions). We will advise you on a more convenient delivery method.

Possible heater malfunctions and ways to eliminate them

If the stove in a VAZ 21214 has stopped working, then, in principle, repairing it yourself is not a particularly difficult task.

The reasons for the malfunction why the Niva stove refuses to work are given below:

Failure of the additional resistor. This element of the system is located behind the glove box and is designed to control the ventilating device for pumping warm air into the cabin. The problem is solved by replacement.
Wear of pipes. Over time, the pipes begin to wear out, and temperature changes especially contribute to this. To detect worn hoses, each line must be carefully inspected. Wear may be indicated by cracks and other damage to the pipes through which antifreeze can escape.
The heater valve is faulty. A breakdown of this component may be indicated by traces of a coolant leak in the vehicle interior. If the heater tap is being replaced, it is better to use a ceramic device; its service life is usually several times higher than that of traditional metal devices.
Problems in the operation of the control unit. It is best to have this part repaired by a qualified electrician.
The heater radiator has failed. On Niva 21213 you can easily replace it with your own hands, we will talk about this below (the author of the video is the OWNER G channel).

It is very easy to find a broken fan resistor - the fan only runs at maximum speed.

Fault Diagnosis

The stove supplied as standard will need to be modified for preventive purposes. The procedure will not take much time, but it will prevent many problems in the future. Driving experience suggests that the first severe frosts will undermine the “health” of the device. The list of main weaknesses is as follows:

the optimal operating temperature range for model 2121 is from -5 to +10°C;
inability to warm up the air in the cabin if outside is -8°C or lower;
when the blowing power increases, the temperature does not increase;
When driving in 2nd gear, the noise from the Niva's stove becomes significant.

That is why it is better to take the necessary measures in advance. The driver has few alternatives. On the one hand, everything remains in its place. The heating device is used at minimum power. During mild winters this is still tolerable, but with the onset of real cold weather the conditions will become unbearable. On the other hand, it's easy to spend a few hours rectifying the situation.

The presence of an unpleasant sound indicates the need to replace the device. A specialized retail network offers ready-made options for heating mechanisms for Niva. If desired, it can be assembled independently.

The second option is considered more preferable. When you assemble it yourself, you have the opportunity to literally personalize the stove. To do the work yourself, you will need to visit a specialized store or market to buy spare parts.

When purchasing, original parts or analogues are selected. The main thing is that they have a quality certificate. Otherwise, they cannot be installed. It would be useful to rewrite the technical data of the vehicle so as not to exceed the parameters recommended by the manufacturer.

Technical details of the procedure

The efficiency of the new heating system on Niva will be determined not by the cost of the purchased parts, but by their quality. To operate, you will need the following elements: a car resistor, a figure-eight heater and a “snail”. It is a mistake to believe that only “original” spare parts are suitable for repairing a heating device. The main requirement is technical compatibility.

If in doubt, a drawing of the heating system will provide clarity. The further procedure is as follows:

Cut a new mounting hole. This is done carefully, because the reliability of the heating system’s operation depends on the quality of the preparatory process. It is recommended to place the engine as low as possible in the air duct, otherwise the device will rest against the hood. This should not be allowed to happen, otherwise the stove fan will not last long.

The heating system of a new model is checked by test switching on. It is recommended to switch modes smoothly. The device must remain on each of them for at least 5-7 minutes. The driver’s task is to make sure that the operation of the system is not accompanied by extraneous noise and vibration.

Comprehensive modification of the stove/heater of Niva 4x4 (VAZ 2121, 2131)

Having set out to increase the efficiency of my car's heater, I re-read the available methods on the forums, and realized that these methods have some drawbacks that did not suit me. For example, installing a fan from a VAZ 2108 allows you to increase the air flow through the heater and blower nozzles, but this air is taken from the street, it is icy, and therefore the interior begins to warm up only after the engine has completely warmed up. In addition, this method requires significant modifications to the design of the heater, as well as the cost of purchasing a fan. Next, I’ll tell you how to modify the stove on the Niva with your own hands without investment and in a short time.

Modernization of the stove at NIVA (installation of a “snail” from 2108)

The stove in Niva is frankly bad! One of its most important problems is the fan itself, which often makes squealing sounds and its performance is quite low...

The main reason for the unpleasant sounds of the fan is the fact that it is installed under the radiator, and even in a vertical position.

Passing through it, the already heated air greatly heats the fan motor itself and all the lubricant gradually drains from the rotor.

As a result, the motor begins to squeal, since over time the bushings remain almost without lubrication. I think many are familiar with this problem!

But the problem is solvable! We install the “snail” from the VAZ-2108 and get increased productivity, silence, and, if desired, three control speeds.

The idea itself is generally not new; I also borrowed it from one of the forums. Only everyone does it in their own way. Here's how I did it...

One of the main advantages after the conversion is that you can’t hear the stove motor at all, since the motor itself is now located in the engine compartment!
So, the process: Remove the heater from the car and disassemble it...

If you want to have three speeds, we embed a heater resistor from a VAZ-2108/M2141 into the lower part of the body, on the driver’s side.

We glue all the joints of the case, and especially the place where the radiator is installed, with a rubber seal (you can buy it at any hardware store)

Assembling the lower part. We don’t put the fan itself there, we just throw it away, we don’t need it anymore!

We disassemble the upper part of the heater, remove the grille from the air intake...

And carefully, with minimal gaps, we cut out a place for the “snail” from the VAZ-2108. We install it as shown in the photo below (inside view)

We also carefully fill the remaining cavity with polyurethane foam, sealing all “unnecessary” places with masking tape to avoid gluing the fan itself! Then, after hardening, we cut it flush with the bottom of the air intake housing.

This is what the final air intake should look like:

We put a seal on it and install it under the hood in its place...

As you can see, it doesn’t take much effort and the result is worth it! Productivity increases significantly and the interior warms up faster.

Auto installations: Arthur Tevs (aka Fast)

Source: https://autoclub.tomsk.ru/?p=653

Improvement No. 1. We take air from the cabin

The main disadvantage of the Niva heater is that all the air into the heater radiator comes from the street, and when the air intake flap is closed, air circulation and heating stop completely. To eliminate this drawback, I disassembled the heater (I had to drain some of the antifreeze and disconnect the heater radiator pipes), and in the side wall of the heater housing, opposite the wall where the radiator tubes exit, I made a hole in the shape of a rectangular trapezoid. I did it in such a way that there was 1.5-2 mm of the body wall left to the boundaries of the plane in which I made the hole, and 6-8 mm from the side of the stiffener for attaching the petal valve. I made the hole using a drill, marked it, drilled along the contour of the small diameter holes, then connected the holes using a knife, then filed the edges of the resulting hole, giving it its final shape. The area of the resulting hole was approximately 25 square centimeters. It is through this hole, when the heater air intake flap is closed, that air is drawn from the passenger compartment.

Since the salon is a closed space, air circulation occurs in a closed circle, and the warming up air of the salon, passing through the heater radiator, becomes increasingly hotter at the exit. Despite the small size of the hole, due to the absence of a supply of icy air from the street, the time for warming up the interior to a comfortable temperature and melting icy glass is reduced by 4-5 times, and it is possible to achieve a comfortable temperature even in severe frost.

To prevent cold air from entering the cabin through the hole when the air intake flap is open and the heater fan is turned off, a petal valve is installed on the hole on the inside of the heater housing, which does not interfere with air intake from the cabin. The petal valve is a rubber band cut from a car chamber (preferably from a truck), 1.5-3 mm thick, in the shape of a hole, but slightly larger, and attached to a bolt in such a way that it can freely bend inside the heater body, opening the access of air from interior, and fit snugly against the wall of the heater housing, blocking the hole for the passage of cold air into the cabin, past the heater radiator.

Lada 4×4 3D #HAMELEON › Logbook › It’s done)heater motor from VAZ-2108 to Niva)

For a long time I have been thinking about installing a heater motor from the Eight. After all, the original airflow is not enough for the windows, and the noise from the original stove is like a jet engine) I saw this modification for the first time from a friend on the 214th Niva. I took it for a ride and realized that I would definitely do it by next winter and I would like to see such a useful modification, but in a more thoughtful way, namely: 1. I will insert the snail in the middle of the boot, and not from the edge (air will be sucked in from the street through the intake, and not from under the hood; the circulation of the air flow from the street will be preserved to some extent when driving without the heater on) 2. All joints and cracks of the air ducts will be completely removed and taped 3. Air diffusers will be made from metal plates on the cochlea (so that the entire radiator area is blown) Well, now the installation process itself:

We remove the boot (it is secured with 4 bolts) and dismantle the air damper. Now we are faced with the task of installing the snail into the Nivovsky boot (cutting, sawing, pruning). The main thing is that it is in the center and recessed as much as possible down the body.

on the body of the snail we cut out a recess for the hood lock (unfortunately there is no photo, I forgot to take it) and close it with whatever we want (personally, I closed it with plastic plates that I glued to the sealant) After we have finished installing the snail, the task ahead is to install the diffusers on it . We cut out the plates with a grinder (I used a galvanized sheet), heat them with a burner and drive them into the plastic case like oil.

But before that, connect the snail to power (for example, a battery) and, by trying on, select the optimal angle for installing the plates for maximum air dispersion. Then we make such a plate at the bottom of the boot so that everything is sealed and preferably from a whole piece.

and Let’s assemble the structure (Boot + snail + plate) I put everything on aquarium sealant (of all sealants, this is the most vigorous! (strong), I have tested it more than once.

in advance we make a hole in the boot for resistance (I used Kalinov resistance and a button) Next, between the radiator body and the metal frame of the car (where the damper was located), I inserted a piece of penofol (so that the air flow would blow 100% onto the radiator and nowhere else, take the width of the foam foam 10 mm) by covering it with sealant on both sides.

Now we take the seal (elastic band) of the boot, also apply sealant on both sides and join our entire structure (radiator housing and heater housing (boot)). Naturally, we do it together (one from above under the hood holds the bolts, and the second from the interior presses down the radiator housing and attaches the nuts .Then everything was pulled together well without fanaticism.Then I cut strips of penofol and pushed them between the radiator and the case so that not even a small hole remained. Well, now we move on to the part of the structure in which the original fan is located. Of course, I pulled it out. We close it on it the cover for blowing the legs and the whole thing is filled with sealant (the entire body around the perimeter, all the cracks on it. Of course, I didn’t forget about the legs) I made holes on the sides and inserted the cooling system pipes there (adjusted them to size so that the air blows cleanly on the legs and out of nowhere) and of course put them on sealant.

In the future, I’ll probably come up with some kind of screws (to block the airflow of the legs), but as practice has shown, the windshield has enough flow together with the airflow of the legs. I pasted this part on top at the junction with the radiator body with thin penofol (again, so that there are no air leaks) and secured it with standard brackets. After that, I decided to remove the dashboard in order to dismantle all the air ducts and humanly glue them at the joints and in the seams (there are gaps there, mother, don’t worry!) yes, the dashboard could be removed immediately, to make it easier to unscrew and join the radiator housing (but since the car was used every day, and I did everything after work, it took me a week.) If, of course, you take this matter thoroughly and immediately, then it would be better to remove the dashboard right away. I did the air ducts for the side windows this way (I cut off this square and inserted the air duct directly into the deflector, and not as it was - the deflector was inserted into the air duct. Now the flow goes to the side windows and not under the dashboard.

Improvement No. 2. Increasing fan performance

I also slightly increased the efficiency of the standard heater fan. The fact is that the gap between the fan blades and the diffuser is about 3 mm, and the width of the diffuser is no more than 15 mm, while the width of the fan blades is more than 30 mm. Therefore, some of the air leaks back between the blades and the diffuser, preventing a large pressure difference from being created between the suction area and the discharge area.

According to my estimates, the efficiency of the fan increases by 10-15%, so you don’t have to bother with this problem.

Improvement No. 3. Installing the grille on the air intake

When disassembling the heater, a large number of tree leaves and insect remains were found in the air intake casing and in the honeycombs of the heater radiator grille, which also reduced the efficiency of the heater. Therefore, after cleaning and flushing the heater core, I took measures to prevent the radiator from clogging.

To do this, I bent a wire frame to the size of the air intake inlet, covered it with a nylon mesh with a 1x1 mm cell, and installed it at the bottom of the rubber seal of the air intake inlet. It was perfectly fixed there in the fold, like an accordion, without additional fastening.

Fault Diagnosis

the optimal operating temperature range for model 2121 is from -5 to +10°C;
inability to warm up the air in the cabin if outside is -8°C or lower;
when the blowing power increases, the temperature does not increase;
When driving in 2nd gear, the noise from the Niva's stove becomes significant.

Further developments proceed as follows. If the heating in the car is running at ½ power, you can limit yourself to minor repairs. The main thing is to make sure that there are no noises or extraneous knocks, otherwise the Niva 21213 should immediately go for a technical inspection.

Let's sum it up

As you can see, on all modifications of the domestic Niva SUV, the interior heating system works extremely poorly, and this is mainly due to its design flaws. For this reason, vehicle owners have to constantly look for different ways to solve the problem, constantly upgrading the stove in the car.

As practice shows, it is not difficult to correct all the shortcomings and improve the interior heating. Any driver can carry out the procedure for independently tuning the interior heating system in a Niva-21213 car.

Technical details of the procedure

If in doubt, a drawing of the heating system will provide clarity. The further procedure is as follows:

Original parts vs analogues: practical advice

As mentioned earlier, such a choice does not affect the quality of the heating system. At the same time, car mechanics make several reservations. For those who plan to use VAZ stoves, it would be useful to check the power system. It is different for some modifications. That is why all actions are consistent with the drawings.

It is permissible to use the VAZ 2108 heater, provided that two recommendations are followed. Firstly, the mounting socket is 1-2 cm larger than the size of the device. The additional area will reduce the vibration impact. Secondly, the switch is installed taking into account the specifics of the VAZ heating system. You will have to tinker less when minor modifications to the system are needed.

The ventilation system is updated in 1-2 hours, depending on the degree of wear of the engine.

If the factory-installed “snail” has no signs of physical wear, you only need to replace the heater “engine” itself.

It’s worse if the factory equipment of a Chevrolet model has manufacturing defects. A complete replacement of the device is recommended. This will save time.

The operation of the heating system determines the comfort and safety of driving. The driver constantly monitors the system's performance. If extraneous noise appears, it is necessary to urgently carry out a technical inspection.

The process of refining the heating system

It is useful to note that modification of the VAZ-2121 stove is not accompanied by high problems. Even a car enthusiast who does not have special technical and repair skills can eliminate such technical defects.

In addition, modification of the Niva-2121 stove may involve performing a variety of actions, including the most basic ones.

Heating in your car can be improved by even just slightly upgrading the air ducts. If you want to radically improve the heating system and increase comfort, then, of course, you will have to tinker a little more.