Catalyst for VAZ 2107 - how to remove, removal, what is it for

Yesterday I worked on the car all day) In the morning I went to Yuzhka to look for a spacer pipe instead of a catalyst (I didn’t want to cook the exhaust and in general, it’s always more pleasant when the process of replacing/removing something is reversible). For those who are reading this article and are planning to remove the catalyst on a VAZ 2107 themselves, I will immediately note all the nuances that lie in wait for you in this process: firstly, I was able to get a spacer pipe with flanges ready for installation only on the market, that is, in you are unlikely to find it in any ordinary stores, secondly, on cars with Euro-2 and Euro-3 the spacers are very different (on Euro-2 it is much shorter and without bending), thirdly, on Euro-3 on all spacers there is a hole for the oxygen sensor, which will not be useful to you if you are going to install the firmware without a catalyst, so get a plug in place of the sensor in the form of a regular bolt that fits the thread, and fourthly, it is better to take all the bolts new, since there is a high probability tear off the old ones when dismantling the catalyst).

The whole kit, including the gasket and new bolts, cost me 1050 rubles.

Returning from the market, I immediately went to remove the catalyst; I didn’t take any photos before installing the spacer, but here’s what it looks like after the installation is complete:

So that the “check” would no longer light up due to the catalyst, I went for a brain chip, and in general this procedure was long overdue. I went to ECUtuning on Starovatutinsky Ave., Moscow.

I was pleasantly surprised by the equipment and the room, everything is clean, nothing superfluous, the prices are reasonable, they do the flashing both with and without removing the ECU. The catalyst and adsorber were removed from the firmware, and they promised that the car would become more vigorous. What can I say based on my feelings? Well, of course, you shouldn’t expect that the car will become 1.5-2 times more powerful, but the car now responds much better, there is no pause when pressing the gas, now I started shifting not so early - I keep the rpm 500 higher than the needle, the car drives a little more vigorously , it works more stable at idle (but it seems to me that this is due to the removal of the catalyst).

How to repair a muffler

If your car's muffler requires repair or complete replacement, it is not recommended to do this work yourself, since there is a high risk that you will only worsen the condition of the exhaust system, and possibly the entire vehicle as a whole. In order to prevent such a situation, contact only specialized car services. In our car service center, qualified specialists with the necessary competence in the field of working with exhaust systems will competently diagnose the exhaust system of your car, and, if necessary, repair or install a new muffler in the shortest possible time.

If you encounter any malfunction in the exhaust system and you need to diagnose it, repair it or replace the muffler, then our salon specialists will be happy to help you with this, since we carry out all types of this work!

How it works?

The catalytic converter is designed to purify exhaust gases by oxidizing them to water vapor and carbon dioxide. The process takes place on the surface of ceramic honeycombs coated with a thin film of precious metals (platinum, rhodium and palladium). The first, control, oxygen sensor (lambda probe) is installed in front of the catalytic converter unit. It measures the amount of free oxygen in the exhaust gases, and the engine control unit ensures the combustion process in the cylinders so that enough oxygen remains to oxidize harmful substances in the converter. A second, diagnostic, lambda probe is installed behind the neutralizer. He checks how the neutralization process went - how much oxygen is left.

Why does the idea of cutting out the exhaust gas catalytic converter even arise? After all, very few people turn off their climate control or, for example, the ABS system. What's wrong with this relatively new device?

As long as catalytic converters were located under the car's underbody, they were safe for engines. They honestly cleaned the exhaust from harmful impurities. Having died, they began to interfere with normal driving - and they were cut out. The ceramic block of the neutralizer either fell into pieces or became crusty. In both cases, the passage of exhaust gases was difficult.

Under the bottom, instead of a neutralizer, a pipe was usually welded or the ceramic filling was simply knocked out. An empty “barrel” could “mumble” and add bass to the sound of the exhaust, and then a pipe with holes was welded into it, behind which there was a steel wire or glass wool. This softened the unpleasant sound effect.

But progress does not stand still. For faster warm-up, the catalytic converter was installed as close to the engine as possible. All neutralization processes taking place at high temperatures will begin earlier. The neutralizer combined with the exhaust manifold is called a catalytic converter.

So the main danger lies in the proximity of the catalytic collector and the engine. The ceramic base begins to crumble over time - the resulting particles can get into the engine cylinders. But the cylinder-piston group and abrasive ceramic particles are incompatible things. Significant wear and tear of the cylinder-piston pair and even scuffing occur. The motor may require major repairs long before its average life is reached. The reasons for chipping the ceramic base of the converter are the low quality of the ceramics, the bad fuel that burns out in the catalytic converter, and the gasoline additives used by the car owner.

The degree of danger of motor damage varies greatly among different manufacturers.

Design Features

How does the catalyst work? "Priora" in terms of its design is no different from other modern cars. The part consists of a steel body (can) and a working element - metal honeycombs, the surface of which is coated with an active substance that promotes heating of the exhaust. The latter is a platinum-iridium alloy.

Unburned harmful impurities, passing through the honeycomb of the device, settle on the surface of the catalytic layer and, under the influence of high temperature, continue to burn, oxidizing almost completely. As a result, at the output we have an exhaust with a minimum amount of harmful substances.

Recommendation "Behind the Wheel"

There are three options for solving the problem with a failed converter - from good and expensive to simple and cheap.

The most correct thing is to replace the failed catalytic collector with a new one. But the price of the issue is, as a rule, inhumane. On Rio or Solaris, a new collector costs about 50,000 rubles.
Luckily for us, a number of companies produce repair catalytic units. It looks like a flame arrester, only inside the cylinder there is a full-fledged ceramic base coated with precious metals. And also, to the delight of intimidated car owners, the base is not ceramic, but metal. This one will definitely not collapse, turning into dust. Such blocks are installed instead of the standard neutralizer or inside its body, depending on the car model. The part itself will cost 6,000–9,000 rubles. Those with a metal base are the most expensive. Installation work costs another 1,500–2,000 rubles.
Owners of some models have another option to solve the problem. For example, almost all Korean cars, in addition to the main catalytic converter, have an additional one in the exhaust manifold - under the bottom. It is significantly inferior in efficiency to the main neutralizer and will not be able to compensate for its loss. But in its place (under the bottom of the car) you can install a cheap but full-fledged catalytic converter, for example, from a VAZ-2107 with an injection engine. It will cost a little more than three thousand rubles. For poor car owners, this is a salvation. Just keep in mind that the rate of warming up of the converter under the bottom will not be the same. And so that the second oxygen sensor does not lie, you will need to reflash the engine control unit.

The catalytic converter is not the car owner's enemy. He, to the extent possible, preserves clean air for you and me. Therefore, if it fails, try to restore operation using one of the methods listed above.

Why knocking out is not the solution

About removing the catalyst , I already wrote an article and shot a video, it’s interesting to watch. There I said that, in principle, you can do this and “flash” it to EURO2 (remove the second lambda probe), install a flame arrester and drive.

BUT YOU KNOW , the car turns out to be downright “toxic”. Once again I will write my words from the upper paragraphs: - “exhaust gases can enter the car, through a window, or be sucked in by the stove (air conditioner). In the city, with traffic jams and low traffic, this is unpleasant to say the least, and if you are driving all day, it also has an adverse effect on your health. Dizziness and nausea are guaranteed"

BUT what to do? For example, some owners of KIA RIO or CEED write to me, especially from 2012 to 2014, when the warranty on catalysts was absurdly short (about 1000 km) and it could fail and “take down” the engine as a whole. And if the warranty has expired, the service life of the catalytic converter has also come to an end (and this could be for short runs) - WHAT TO DO THEN? Shouldn't we leave the engine to die?

Several of my readers wrote to me about the solution. Install a universal catalyst in the catcollector or simply weld it in front of the second lambda umbrella.

Moreover, now there are universal types, on a metal base, that is, much more reliable. And they don’t cost that much (you can get them for almost the price of a flame arrester, well, a little more). There are even options for EURO4, so the second oxygen sensor, which goes behind the catalyst, can show normal data (if not, you can screw up the snag, not even the firmware ).

By the way, someone even welded in converters from LADA PRIORA, and they worked fine.

As a result, we remove the smell (harmful gases escape), do not pollute the atmosphere, and there is no ringing (empty) sound. Something like this. And the old one, which has served its service life, can be handed over, and even get money for it.

Now we are watching a useful video.

I’ll end here, I think my article was useful to you. Sincerely yours, AUTOBLOGGER

(
71 votes, average: 4.54 out of 5)

Similar news

How to unscrew a stuck bolt (nut). Let's disassemble the muffler, coll.

Removing the catalyst. Pros and cons, consumption, firmware - revealed.

It clogged and the catalyst fell apart. Signs and definition via ELM.

Source

VAZ 2107 catalytic converter

Yesterday I worked on the car all day) In the morning I went to Yuzhka to look for a spacer pipe instead of a catalyst (I didn’t want to cook the exhaust and in general, it’s always more pleasant when the process of replacing/removing something is reversible). For those who are reading this article and are planning to remove the catalyst on a VAZ 2107 themselves, I will immediately note all the nuances that lie in wait for you in this process: firstly, I was able to get a spacer pipe with flanges ready for installation only on the market, that is, in you are unlikely to find it in any ordinary stores, secondly, on cars with Euro-2 and Euro-3 the spacers are very different (on Euro-2 it is much shorter and without bending), thirdly, on Euro-3 on all spacers There is a hole for the oxygen sensor, which will not be useful to you if you are going to install the firmware without a catalyst, so get a plug in place of the sensor in the form of a regular bolt that fits the thread, and fourthly, it is better to take all the bolts new, since there is a high probability tear off the old ones when dismantling the catalyst). The whole kit, including the gasket and new bolts, cost me 1050 rubles.

Returning from the market, I immediately went to remove the catalyst; I didn’t take any photos before installing the spacer, but here’s what it looks like after the installation is complete:

So that the “check” would no longer light up due to the catalyst, I went for a brain chip, and in general this procedure was long overdue. I went to ECUtuning on Starovatutinsky Ave., Moscow.

Sale of spare parts and repair of muffler in St. Petersburg tel.: +7 (812) 336-43-32

Catalyst (catalytic converter) - is a metal body (in the form of a “can”), coated on the inside with a layer of refractory material in the form of numerous honeycombs.

The main symptoms of malfunction of this element are: a decrease in engine power and, as a consequence, the dynamic capabilities of the car; the “Check Engine” sign turns on (engine ECU error: “low catalyst efficiency”). Possible breakdowns may include blockage of the cells or their melting, or melting or rupture of the wires of the oxygen level sensors. Unfortunately, catalysts cannot be repaired in any way; for this reason, it is almost always necessary to remove it from the system and install a blende in its place. It is possible to replace the catalyst, but the high cost of this element repels almost everyone.

Almost all modern electronic engine control systems are equipped with numerous detectors that monitor the composition of the fuel mixture. Oxygen detectors (lambda probes) always operate in tandem with a catalyst, and two sensors are usually installed in the system:

The first of them is mounted in front of the “catalyst can”; its task is to change the fuel supply depending on conditions and send a signal to the engine ECU; The second lambda probe is inserted into the system after the catalyst and serves to determine the qualitative composition of the combustion products of the fuel mixture. If a catalyst is excluded from such a gas exhaust system, then the content of toxic elements in the combustion products of the fuel mixture will be higher than normal, and the diagnostic sensor will give a signal about excess CO in the exhaust tract. The engine ECU will receive the signal and inform the driver about the error - after the catalyst is ejected from the gas exhaust system, the Check Engine light will turn on on the instrument panel.

Types of service

Service of Ozone carburetors can be partial or complete. 1st - flushing the unit without removing it from the motor. It is produced using special cleaning products such as “Carb Cleaner”. We use the product according to the instructions and continue to operate the car. But the effect of partial maintenance is short-lived and does not always help. As a result, you will have to do a full service.

How much do catalysts cost for Zhiguli, VAZ, Lada, Daewoo. Features of catalysts.

Full setup of Ozone carburetors comes down to complete disassembly of the unit, cleaning of the channels, checking the functionality of the suspension units, troubleshooting parts, assembly with the introduction of spare parts and the following adjustment.

Throttle body

The next step is to configure the throttle body:

Unscrew the “quality” and “quantity” screws;
We carefully clean the body and blow through the channels in it;
We replace the cuffs with screws and put them in place;

After servicing each component of the carburetor, we also carefully inspect them for correct assembly. Next, we assemble the components together and install the carburetor in place, having previously replaced the gasket under it and painstakingly cleaned the seating surface on the intake manifold.

Solution or sabotage?

Catalytic converters on some engines begin to deteriorate at mileages of less than 50,000 km. And the owners, having read horror stories, go to liquidate them. There are two ways to remove the catalytic converter. Simply remove all the ceramic filling and layers of wall seal. You just need to do this with the device removed, because you can push particles into the cylinders through open valves. The exhaust sound after this procedure may become slightly louder in certain modes. Those who don’t like this open the catalytic collector and weld a flame arrester instead of ceramic blocks.

Are all problems resolved? Of course not - let’s list what will be wrong:

The engine management system will display a “Check engine” error. After all, the second lambda probe will see the same amount of oxygen as the first. The solution may be to reflash the control unit to Euro-2 or install a so-called decoy on the second oxygen sensor. A decoy is a threaded bushing that restricts the passage of gases to the oxygen sensor or contains a piece of ceramic neutralizer filler that can purify gases.
Your car will become very smelly. And you’ll take a sip of it yourself: while warming up in the yard and in a slowly flowing traffic jam, you’ll smell it. Your housemates and neighbors won't improve your karma either. Also, if you carry children or pets, remember that they are more sensitive to smell and ride in the back, where the concentration of harmful substances is higher.
You won't be able to get a diagnostic card honestly. After all, in fact, you don’t even have Euro-2, instead of the Euro-4 or Euro-5 value recorded in the PTS.
If the car is still under warranty, then you will have to say goodbye to it (at least the engine warranty).

Fuel consumption

After you have removed this filter, many are tormented by the question of fuel consumption - will it increase or not? Of course, he will fall (so I think), no matter what anyone says. Let's think logically - if there is this filter element, it represents an obstacle that the exhaust gases need to overcome, and accordingly the engine will spend more effort to push them through (consumption increases slightly). If this element is NOT present, then the “working out” will be much easier - fuel will be saved.

Of course, you shouldn’t expect any global savings, usually it’s about 3% (maximum), but it’s worth noting that consumption will drop slightly.

Do-it-yourself electronic catalyst blende and emulator circuit

A real electronic emulator is a microprocessor device consisting of a single-chip microcircuit. The principle of its operation is based on the formation of an output signal, which in shape corresponds to the information in the working neutralizer. This option is difficult to do on your own, so you should immediately consider a simpler method. To implement it you need to prepare:

Electric soldering iron.
Solder and rosin.
Knife and side cutters.
Resistance 200 Kom, power 0.25 W.
The capacitor is non-polar with a capacity of 4.7 microfarads.

The principle of operation of the system is to average the readings of the oxygen sensor, which is installed after the converter. The method of connecting emulator components is simple and universal. All elements are connected directly to the vehicle’s on-board network conductors. Before connecting the electronic trick to the catalyst with your own hands, you should disconnect the battery terminals to eliminate the possibility of a short circuit.

Do you need an oxygen sensor emulator?

The ECU puts the engine into emergency mode when the engine operates according to the specified fuel maps without taking into account the readings of the oxygen sensors.
The “Check Engine” indicator lights up on the dashboard and an enriched fuel mixture enters the cylinders.
Soot on the spark plugs increases, the power of the internal combustion engine decreases and the oil becomes contaminated.
Increased fuel consumption entails extra financial costs.

Almost all automakers recommend replacing a faulty converter. But not every car owner will do this, because the price of some copies, for example, for VAZ, reaches 60,000 rubles. It is also worth adding the cost of installing the device. Therefore, many car enthusiasts are interested in what a do-it-yourself catalyst blende is and the scheme for its implementation.

The essence of the emulator's operation is to change the real sensor readings, after which the ECU switches to normal operation. In this case, the neutralizer itself can be cut out or replaced with a flame arrester. The procedure for installing a simulator is no more complicated than increasing the ground clearance of a Renault Duster.

How much does it cost to hand over a VAZ 2107 catalyst?

The ability of Russian people to effectively transform unnecessary waste into quite good income is amazing. The business of collecting used automobile catalysts, which brings significant dividends, is a prime example of this!

Catalysts in modern cars contain a certain amount of precious metals. To a greater extent it is Platinum or Palladium. Rhodium is less common.

The cost of metals used in catalysts for purifying exhaust gases today reaches 3,500 rubles per gram, while one unit can contain from 1 to 8 grams of Platinum, or another noble alloy.

The main business associated with the purchase of used catalysts from the population lies precisely in the removal of precious metals from vehicle waste.

Even an ordinary motorist can hand over a used device and receive from 1,000 to 18,000 rubles for it.

How to do it? Read below and then perhaps you can make good money by collecting autocatalysts containing platinum.

What catalysts do you buy?

They buy automobile catalysts of both domestic and foreign production.

Accepts metal and ceramic.

Foreign copies are accepted both in whole and disassembled condition.

Domestic, only disassembled.

How much do catalysts cost?

The cost of filters for purifying exhaust gases of a foreign-made car can be determined by the serial number of the product.

The most expensive specimens can be valued at 15,000 - 20,000 rubles per piece up to 45,000 rubles per kg.

Domestic catalysts are bought from 800 rubles to 4000 rubles per piece.

How the price is formed.

The cost of the catalyst at collection points (they are accepted mainly by weight) directly depends on the content of precious metals in them.

If 1 kg contains 6 grams of platinum, then the price will accordingly be based on the cost of 6 grams of platinum. The fewer precious metals there are in a kilogram of catalyst, the correspondingly cheaper it is.

How do you find out how much platinum is in the catalyst?

A disassembled catalyst is taken (only models in exceptional condition are not disassembled).

All filter mass is removed.

Afterwards, using a special device, X-ray fluorescence analysis is carried out, the purpose of which is to determine the exact amount and mass of precious metals in the catalyst.

XRF spectrometer for checking the content of precious metals

Next, the cost of the precious metal on the world market is clarified, a commission of up to 30% is subtracted from it, and the total price of the metals in the catalyst is calculated.

For example, you have 1 kg of catalysts containing 1 gram of Palladium (3000 rubles per gram) according to the XRF test. In this case, you can get 3000 - 30% = 2100 rubles for this mass

Each catalyst has a different content of Platinum, Palladium or other precious metals, so XRF is required when selling them.

Where can you find catalysts containing platinum?

More often, catalysts are supplied to purchase points by service stations, car dismantlers and organizations involved in the purchase of scrap metal. Less often, catalysts are brought by an intermediary who buys the units from the population at lower prices.

Sources

zr.ru/content/articles/922074-flamegasitel-catalizator/
zen.yandex.ru/media/autolifestyle/ubral-katalizator-i-vot-chto-izmenilos-v-povedenii-avtomobilia-rasskaju-kak-na-etom-mojno-esce-i-zarabotat-5f1aa0f3dae5eb15901a3548
drive2.ru/l/548535357054910514/
drive2.ru/l/1056727/
zen.yandex.ru/media/id/5c49e7b7df2d7400ade0306d/kak-i-za-skolko-mojno-prodat-otrabotannyi-avtokatalizator-5d25044f23371c00ad7b9f65

Removing the catalyst for VAZ 2107

So, today we will talk about the catalysts that were installed on VAZs depending on the model and year of manufacture, and we will also discuss the advisability of removing the catalyst, supposedly this improves the dynamics, but does not have any consequences. So, the most common opinion, which serves as a reinforced concrete justification for the need to remove the catalyst, is “The catalyst is strangling the engine.” In my opinion, this is a fundamentally wrong opinion, from the category of superstitions. A working catalyst creates absolutely no resistance to the flow of exhaust gases. Melting and clogging of the catalyst honeycomb are usually the consequences of long-term operation of a faulty car coupled with lousy fuel. For example, many people like to add additives to gasoline. But no one thinks that this could be one of the reasons for the failure of the catalyst. Poor fuel quality is undoubtedly a good assistant in the process of “killing” the catalyst, but there is always the opportunity to change the gas station, right? Also, one of the reasons for cat failure may be an incorrectly prepared fuel-air mixture. On average, the service life of a catalyst ranges from 150,000 km to 200,000, but sometimes they last longer. If you still decide to remove the catalyst, then remember - you need to know the toxicity standards of your car. EURO 2 or EURO 3. Finding out is easy. EURO 2 does not have a lambda after the catalyst. EURO 3 must have a control lambda after the catalyst. It tells the brain how good the cat is.

In cars with Euro 2, removing the catalyst is very simple. The catalyst is located under the bottom of the car in the exhaust system and auto stores sell inserts that are installed instead of the catalytic converter.

But in systems with EURO 3 standards, everything is somewhat more difficult. It is necessary to “agree” with the lambda probe, which is located after the catalytic converter, otherwise there will be a check engine “reduced efficiency of the catalytic converter”. There are two ways here - mechanical snag or flashing the brain of your car. And finally, where is the notorious catalyst located in our VAZs?

Recommendations

Comments 16

The spacer seems to cost 500r. less hassle than cooking

inserting costs money, but here everything is done with free material!

why did you remove it?) was the check constantly on or what?)

I have one Euro 2 sensor, on my pants, there wasn’t a second one initially, so I didn’t have anything on, I pulled it out because with it the output resistance was greater, the car is now picking up speed better and better!

I have Euro-3.) and the check light periodically lights up, bastard, due to the insufficient efficiency of the catalytic converter) I remove it through a computer in the service center)

buy yourself an on-board computer and you will delete errors yourself and you don’t have to pay anyone money, the simplest one on the diamond costs 1000 rubles in place of the parking brake lights and a beard belt!

Is it possible to clear the errors yourself so that the check does not light up? )

did you mean the brake fluid and heated rear window lamps)) but you can put it to the left, where the plug is, and there are no lamps))

I have Euro-3.) and the check light periodically lights up, bastard, due to the insufficient efficiency of the catalytic converter) I remove it through a computer in the service center)

there is no need to go to the service center, I removed the positive terminal on the battery for a couple of minutes and the check light does not light up

yeah, it's burning, it's still on))

I didn't feel hot after that

the terminal is also not good, when I bought the car, naturally, after spending a penny, I removed the terminal from the battery at night, when I installed the battery, it started giving me an error saying that the power to the brain was being lost, I haven’t removed it for 4 months now and everything went away, but the check still doesn’t work caught fire!

yeah, it's burning, it's still on))

Location of the VAZ 2107 resonator

The exhaust system of carburetor VAZ 2107 consists of three sections:

double exhaust pipe connected to the exhaust manifold flange;
resonator;
main muffler.

A similar system was installed on the first seven with an injector that complied with Euro 0 standards. Later, injection modifications of the VAZ 2107 appeared, produced in accordance with the requirements of Euro 2 and Euro 3, in which the exhaust tract was supplemented with a fourth section - a catalytic converter located between the exhaust and resonator pipes .

The resonator, connected at the front to the exhaust pipe or catalyst, starts under the gearbox and ends in front of the rear axle beam. The resonator tank is located to the right (in the direction of travel) of the propeller shaft. The connecting pipe coming out of the body is bent upward and docked with the main muffler pipe that goes around the rear axle. The entire structure is supported by the engine exhaust manifold flange, a metal bracket and rubber hangers attached to the bottom of the car.

Is there an alternative

If you don’t want to spend money on a standard catalyst, you can always buy a universal device, which will cost you half the price, taking into account installation. Essentially, it is the same catalytic converter with the same functions and similar design. And they are produced mainly in the same factories as the original ones, and their price is lower due to the absence of various trade markups.

Well, if you want to easily tune your Priora, buy a good flame arrester for it. It is installed instead of a catalyst. With it, the engine power will increase due to improved exhaust gas flow, and the sound of the power unit will acquire sporty notes.

Replacing the VAZ 2107 resonator

Replacing the VAZ 2107 resonator is carried out on an inspection pit, overpass or lift. To complete the work you will need:

two keys for 13;
powerful flat screwdriver;
hammer and wooden handle;
pliers;
pipe wrench (gas);
aerosol lubricant WD-40 or equivalent;
fabric gloves.

Theoretically, disassembling the exhaust system is not very difficult. However, in reality, the problem of separating sections usually arises, since the joints of the joints are firmly stuck due to heating and the formation of internal carbon deposits.

The resonator is mounted at four points: at two joints (with the exhaust pipe and muffler) and at two rubber hangers, hooked directly to the tank. Its dismantling is carried out in the following order:

Drive the car into a viewing hole (overpass), set the parking brake and secure it with wheel chocks.
Apply aerosol lubricant liberally to the joints of the resonator section and wait 15-20 minutes.
Using 13mm wrenches, loosen the rear and front fastening clamps. Carefully knock the mandrels off the thickened part of the joint onto the pipe.

If you cannot disconnect the pipes in this manner, try bending the end of the outer pipe with the slots by driving a flat-head screwdriver under it. When the gap widens, spray the joint again with spray lubricant. If necessary, you can remove the rear suspension of the main muffler and have an assistant rotate this element while you hold the resonator with a pipe wrench.

The new resonator is installed in the reverse order. Before installation, it is recommended to carefully inspect the main muffler and intake section. If burns are detected on them, appropriate work should be performed.

During the assembly process, it is necessary to ensure that the pipe does not sag and at the same time does not touch the body. In the first case, the resonator may be damaged on a rough road, and in the second, it will hit the body while driving, causing a dull knock in the car's interior. Upon completion of the work, it is necessary to start the engine and, going down into the inspection hole, make sure that the joints do not allow exhaust gases to pass through.

Video: replacing the VAZ 2107 resonator

The VAZ 2107 resonator operates under difficult conditions - the temperature of the gases passing through the section is about 600 °C. If you do not monitor the condition of the rubber fasteners, the pipe will become loose and begin to leak gases. If a fistula appears in the body, the tank should be welded immediately, otherwise the damage will quickly increase. Replacing the VAZ 2107 resonator is quite simple. To do this, you will only need a minimum set of plumbing tools and step-by-step implementation of the instructions of professionals.

We recommend watching:

Catalyst VAZ 2107 euro 3
Resonators VAZ 2110 types
What is the difference between a muffler and a resonator?
Replacing the muffler VAZ 2107 injector
What is the difference between a resonator and a muffler?
Sectional view of the exhaust system resonator

Why does the lambda probe on a VAZ 2107 break?

There are quite a few reasons why the VAZ 2107 oxygen sensor fails. In this case, the injector does not work correctly and does not behave as expected. Often, lambda probe failure occurs when low-quality fuel is used. If you fill up with gasoline that contains a large amount of lead, this will lead to rapid failure of the oxygen concentration sensor.

Often liquids get on the device itself - brake fluid, antifreeze, gasoline, water. This leads to microcracks appearing on it, which disrupt the entire operation of the device. Also, driving a car in which the fuel filters are clogged leads to rapid breakdown of the lambda probe, not only on the VAZ 2107, but on all others. When replacing the oxygen concentration sensor, you will have to install new fuel filters.

Of course, like any other device, the oxygen concentration sensor has a certain resource. And if it has served for a long time, and for it this is 3-5 years, depending on the mileage, then this device must be replaced. Mechanical damage occurs somewhat less frequently. This can happen both when the car is moving (for example, a stone bouncing off the wheel), and during unqualified car repairs.

Signs of carburetor problems

Dust, dirt and foreign particles that get inside the carburetor with fuel and air settle on the internal walls of the channels, of which there are a huge number in the design of the unit, which leads to malfunction. The carburetor design contains a number of components, the components of which wear out and become damaged over time, which affects its performance. Signs indicating a carburetor malfunction:

Difficulty starting the engine;
Decrease in acceleration dynamics;
Jerks, failures during acceleration;
Unstable idle speed;
Unauthorized stop of the engine;

These signs are also given by other engine systems (the same ignition system), but if the carburetor has not been serviced for a long time, then the reason for poor engine performance lies in this unit.

Carburetor cover

Let's start with the lid. Maintenance includes the following steps:

Unscrew the screws securing the cover.
Disconnect the telescopic air damper control drive.
Remove the cover from the housing along with the trigger and float.
Unscrew the screws securing the starting device and disconnect the rod from the damper axis lever.
We remove the float axis and remove the float along with the locking needle.
We unscrew the filter plug installed on the fuel supply fitting (if the plug does not unscrew, apply a few gentle blows to it with a wrench). Remove the filter element (mesh).
We remove the gasket.
We wash the lid from dirt. We blow out the channels in it using a cleaning agent (if you don’t have the product on hand, you can blow it with compressed air).
We wash and blow through the filter mesh. We put it in place and tighten the plug.
We examine the condition of the locking needle (the rubber cuff on it). We install the float with the needle in place.
Check the position of the float (affects the level in the float chamber). This is done like this: we turn the lid over vertically (so that the locking needle closes the feed channel) and measure the distance from the float in the surface of the lid. The distance is 6.5 mm, with this indicator the level corresponds to the norm. If it doesn’t fit, we adjust and adjust the position of the float by bending the tongue.
Check the tightness of the locking needle. To do this, turn the cap over with the float up and create a vacuum in the inlet fitting with your mouth (extract air from the fitting). If the locking needle “does not hold,” replace it.
Using vacuum, we check the integrity of the diaphragm of the starting device (when creating vacuum, the rod of the device must move). If necessary, we repair the starting device using a new membrane from the repair kit.
We install the starting device on the carburetor cover (replacing the sealing collar of the device), connect the rods and the telescopic drive.

READ How to open the door of a VAZ 2112 from the outside

Afterwards we put in a new gasket and put the cover aside.

Something else useful for you:

Manufacturers of resonators for VAZ 2107

In the post-Soviet space you can purchase resonators from many manufacturers. The production devices in greatest demand are:

OJSC AvtoVAZagregat (manufacturer of original parts);
OJSC Togliatti Plant of Technological Equipment;
LLC "Izhora Silencer";
TRANSMASTER UNIVERSAL (manufacturer of exhaust systems made of regular and stainless steel).

There are no big differences between the products of these brands. The service life of resonators made of refractory steel is approximately the same and amounts to 20-30 thousand kilometers. The service life of stainless steel products is approximately twice as long, but the price is one and a half times higher than the price of analogues made of ferrous metal.

Replacing the catalyst on a 16-valve VAZ 2114

On a VAZ 2114 with a 16-valve engine, the catalyst is structurally combined with the output manifold and is located in the engine compartment immediately behind the cylinder block. To replace it, a special insert is used, a zero-resistance catalyst, better known as a “spider”. Removing the catalyst and installing a spacer can also be done in a garage. To gain access, you will need to remove the fuel rail.

The peculiarity of removing the catalyst on 16-valve VAZ 2114 cars is that there are two lambdas. The first is installed on the catalyst itself and is responsible for setting the fuel mixture, and the second, “ecological”, is located on the flange after the catalyst. Its absence will inevitably cause a sensor error, a check engine indication, incorrect injection operation, increased fuel consumption and poor traction. There are two ways out of this situation.

If you purchased a spider for one sensor, the ECU needs to be flashed from Euro-3 to Euro-2. In addition, the spider for one sensor has a drawback: the only thread for the lambda probe is located on the flange. To screw in the “injection” lambda, you need to assemble an extension cord from two male-female connectors and a wire.
If there is a spider for two sensors, the “injection” lambda can be installed in its original place. The thread for the second sensor can be plugged or a “dummy” for the computer can be installed there. In the second case, flashing the ECU to Euro 2 will not be required.

Before removing the catalyst, you need to understand why it is needed. The power gain from this procedure is a myth. As well as the belief that an engine with a catalyst “does not breathe.” Removing a working cat (and if the odometer shows less than 100 thousand kilometers and diagnostics show the system is working, it works) will not add additional horses. However, the belief that driving with a clogged catalyst is more environmentally friendly than driving without it is also a fallacy.

Popular myths

Varieties
Some people deliberately get rid of the catalyst, others deliberately ignore the clogged unit. All this caused the spread of myths.

By removing it, the engine gains power. A misconception that arose for unknown reasons.
The engine cannot “breathe” normally due to the catalyst. Absurd. It functions quite well if the cat itself is in working order.
A clogged element ensures a more environmentally friendly ride. Another myth, the origin of which can only be guessed at. Rather, on the contrary, a clogged device harms nature and your car even more.

Therefore, monitor the condition of the catalyst on the VAZ 2114, check its functional condition, and if necessary, replace it with a new one or replace it with a flame arrester. Both options have shown their effectiveness.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=j8h-zE9LUR4

Loading …

Design and purpose of the VAZ 2107 resonator

The resonator is a cylindrical metal tank designed to preliminary reduce exhaust sound. Connecting pipes with a diameter of 40 mm are hermetically welded to it at the front and rear. The front pipe is equipped with a mating flange for the catalyst or exhaust pipe, and the rear pipe has two longitudinal slots for docking with the muffler section.

The resonator consists of:

a tightly sealed cylindrical body to which connecting pipes are welded;
an internal pipe with a large number of holes (perforations) for passing exhaust gases;
a transverse partition dividing the body into two internal chambers.

The operating principle of the resonator is based on the phenomenon of sound resonance. Getting inside the housing along with the exhaust gases, sound waves penetrate through the perforations in the pipe and are repeatedly reflected from the outer walls of the tank. Mutual damping of oscillations occurs, and the amplitude of the waves decreases. As a result, the volume of the exhaust sound is significantly reduced.

The VAZ 2107 resonator performs the following functions:

Preliminarily reduces the exhaust sound level;
unlike the main muffler, it creates virtually no resistance to the exhaust flow;
promotes cooling of hot gas;
taking on part of the load, extends the service life of the main muffler.

Tools and equipment for work

To carry out maintenance work you will need:

A set of standard keys;
Screwdrivers;
Pliers;
Rags;
Carburetor cleaner (“Carb Cleaner” or equivalent);

You will also need a repair kit for the carburetor. Different types of repair kits are produced, some of which include only gaskets, while others include all the parts (jets, screws, emulsion tubes, etc.). It's better to get the full set.

Since the carburetor consists of a huge number of small parts, disassembling it into its component parts, washing and troubleshooting and tuning is carried out in stages so as not to lose sight of anything.

Choosing a resonator for VAZ 2107

Four types of resonators are installed on the VAZ 2107:

Long section with one tank. Installed on all classic carburetor VAZ 2101-2107 with an engine capacity of no more than 1.3 liters. Catalog number - 2101–1202005.

The choice of resonator depends on the specific modification of the VAZ 2107. When purchasing, you need to keep in mind the following recommendations:

On the carburetor version with a 1.3 liter engine, you can easily install a long section with one (VAZ 2101-07) or two (VAZ 2106-07) tanks. In the second case, the sound of the running engine will become quieter, but the power will drop by about 3-5 hp. With. Shortened resonators will not work.
Both long resonators are suitable for carburetor and injection VAZ 2107, corresponding to Euro 0. When installing a part with one tank, the exhaust noise will increase and the engine power will increase slightly. Short pipes cannot be installed.
The exhaust system for Euro 2 is equipped not only with a catalyst, but also with an oxygen sensor (lambda probe) mounted in the exhaust pipe. For such cars, the original shortened resonator with a two-bolt flange or any long section is suitable. However, such a resonator is not suitable for the VAZ 2107 Euro - it is connected to another catalyst and differs in length.
The exhaust system of the VAZ 2107, manufactured in accordance with Euro 3 standards, has two oxygen sensors. On the VAZ 21074 you can install the original short resonator or a long one, but with some modifications.

"Native" oxygen sensors

For VAZ cars equipped with an injection system, the following oxygen sensors are ideal:

For engines with a volume of 1.5 liters, complying with Euro-2 standards, they were equipped with a lambda probe manufactured by Bosch, number 0258005133. It was also used on cars that were compliant with the Euro-3 standard, directly in front of the catalytic converter.
The second oxygen sensor is manufactured by Bosch with model number 0258006537. It has been actively installed on cars since 2004. The difference from the first lambda is that it has a special heater. This oxygen sensor can be installed on a car that was equipped with a lambda without a heater. But under no circumstances should you carry out a reverse replacement.