Front suspension arm and subframe extension - removal and installation

We repair the Lada Largus suspension ourselves

The suspension of the Lada Largus ensures comfortable movement. It is recognized by many motorists as unkillable. This is especially true on domestic roads. This detail is completely borrowed from Renault Logan. It is energy-intensive, soft and reliable. But sometimes problems arise with it. You can solve them yourself.

The front suspension is a simple, comfortable and inexpensive MacPherson strut design, but with some modifications. It is mounted on a subframe. The front arms are attached to it. At the ends of the levers there is a ball joint, through which the lever is connected to the steering knuckle. Vibrations are dampened by shock absorber struts with coil springs. To avoid lateral rolls, a torsion stabilizer is installed.

If in old VAZ models the lever was changed separately from the ball joint, then on Largus the ball joints are changed simultaneously with the lower lever, as on Renault Logan. Largus also differs in that the stabilizer is secured to a lever located below. Due to the simplicity of the design and maintainability, you can find faults yourself at home.

The main part of the rear suspension is a semi-independent beam, in the cavity of which there is a stabilizer, rigidly connected to the lower arms. The rear shock absorbers are attached to the lever at their lower end; its springs rest against the lever bracket through a gasket. The difference between the largus suspension is that the shock absorber and spring are separate parts that are not combined into a single unit. Each lever is attached to the body using silent blocks. The rear suspension is a reliable unit; it rarely breaks, but is easy to repair.

Diagnostics and signs of suspension malfunctions

One of the advantages of the Lada Largus is its reliable and durable suspension. But despite this, over time the elements wear out. If proper maintenance is carried out in a timely manner, faults are identified and corrected, you can

extend the service life of the suspension and prevent failure of its parts.

The subframe is the main element of the front suspension, so timely diagnosis will avoid problems with the chassis and unit failure. We attach the levers, the rear part of the engine and the exhaust system cushions. Malfunctions of the subframe should be looked for in the places where the hanging elements are attached. Typical symptoms of malfunctions are a knocking sound in the front suspension, camber changes

wheel alignment.

To maintain a smooth ride, dampen road irregularities, ground clearance and level the vehicle while driving, shock absorber struts are installed. They limit swaying

body The following signs indicate the presence of malfunctions:

• The body sways when driving on uneven roads;
• oil smudges;
• knocking, vibration and creaking when moving;
• poor handling;
• When hitting even small holes, impacts and shocks are felt.

When some of the coils of springs break off, the ground clearance decreases, and body roll is noticeable if you place the car on a flat surface.

The function of the anti-roll bar is to prevent the body from swaying and maintain vehicle stability on the road. Node problems

determined by the following symptoms:

• when driving on an uneven road, a metallic knock appears;
• if you brake sharply, the body sways strongly;
• On sharp turns there is a noticeable roll.

Using levers, the angle of rotation of the wheels is adjusted. Structurally, the lever is a metal pipe, thanks to a ball joint it is connected to the steering knuckle. Problems possible due to wear and tear

fixing silent blocks.

Malfunctions manifest themselves in the form of a knocking sound that occurs when the car hits an uneven surface, the drive wheels become unbalanced, the vehicle pulls in different directions while driving, and play in the steering wheel is felt. If the hub wears out, the steering knuckles fail. The malfunction can be determined by uneven wear of the tread

tires, when you turn the steering wheel you hear a creaking sound, the car pulls to the right and then to the left.

Diagnostics of suspensions is carried out only on a flat plane. It makes it possible to determine which parts and assemblies need to be replaced.

The suspension is checked in stages:

1. First, we inspect the shock absorber strut supports. There should be a distance of no more than 1.5 cm between the glass and the top of the support.
2. The steering wheel should rotate easily both left and right, and there should be no play or extraneous sounds in the form of crackling or squeaking.
3. Check for play by rocking the balls, arms and rods from side to side.
4. Try to rock the car. If the shock absorbers are working properly, after a few vibrations the body will return to its previous position.
5. Make a visual inspection of the silent blocks. If defects are found on them, they must be replaced.

Front suspension diagnostics.

Most suspension elements, excluding shock absorbers, cannot be repaired. If they are faulty, they must be replaced with new parts.

Restoring the suspension

Suspension repair work includes dismantling and replacing worn and faulty elements.

To do this you will need to prepare the following tools:

• Screwdriver Set:
• a set of keys;
• set of heads;
• jack;
• hammer.

Replacing the anti-roll bar

To restore the performance of the stabilizer, it is necessary to replace worn parts, which is performed as follows:

algorithm:

1. Place the car on a hill or hang the front part of it.
2. First, clean the screw from dirt.
3. Next, unscrew the nuts that secure the stabilizer to the lever.
   To prevent the screw from turning when unscrewing the fasteners, it must be held.
4. After this, remove the bushing from below.
5. Now remove the screw, bushing and washer.
6. Similarly, unscrew the second bolt securing the anti-roll bar and arm.
7. We install new parts instead of old ones.
8. We reassemble in the reverse order of disassembly.

To replace the rod cushion, unscrew the subframe and bracket mounting bolt with a spanner. Next, remove the part and install a new element. If a visual inspection of the rod reveals signs of wear in

in places where the pillows are attached, it is advisable to replace it.

Replacing levers

Levers are mainly changed when replacing silent blocks and ball bearings. To do this, hang the car from the front, remove the crankcase protection, and unscrew the fastener of the rod to the lever. In the next step, we unscrew the fastening bolt, with its help the ball joint is fixed in the steering knuckle. If you are unable to unscrew the bolt,

knock it out with a hammer.

Using a flat-head screwdriver, loosen the connection between the ball joint tip and the steering knuckle. At this moment, press the lever down to disconnect the parts. After unscrewing the fastening bolt that secures the bracket to the subframe, remove the subframe. Next, sequentially unscrew the rear and front bolts. Now we dismantle the lever and install a new one in its place. Then we assemble the knot in reverse

disassembly order.

Changing the ball joint

Despite their long service life, ball joints are replaced more often than other suspension parts. The unit is changed when play appears or rubber parts wear out. Using the algorithm described above, we dismantle the lever together with the ball joint. Then we press the ball out of the assembly body. We clean the seat from dirt and dust. Taking a suitable mandrel, we press the new ball joint into place with a hammer. Next, we assemble the assembly in the reverse order of removal.

Features of operation

The most important nuance of operation is that it is almost impossible to check their characteristics after installation on a vehicle. This is due to the fact that very often parts simply break at the joint junction, that is, where they come into contact with the lever. In addition, if the ball is not suitable for Largus, then, naturally, it will not achieve the unambiguous trust of the master - it is simply impossible to check.

Causes of failure

If this level of wear is too strong and the entire load in Largus is distributed unevenly on the two ball joints, then this leads to the pins being pulled out of the housings. The consequence of this is the impossibility of supporting the wheels and, accordingly, the car falling onto the asphalt.

In addition, the natural wear and tear of parts can be “loaded” with obsolete materials. Due to the increase in dynamic load and considerable speed of movement, they are simply not able to perform their functions.

Lada | VAZ Largus from 2012, rear suspension arm joints instructions online

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Crimping process

The main goal is to ensure that the distance between the outer edge of the silent and the plane of the lever becomes 7 mm. There is no need to do less!

To carry out all actions, you will need two gas or Swedish keys. A screw with washers (puller) and a set of mandrels are also used.

All equipment shown above was taken from the repair kit for the VAZ-2109. A lubricant is usually applied to the screw thread: cyatim, litol, etc.

Sequence of actions

First, clamp the lever in a vice. Then we assemble the structure as shown.

The details go in this order:

1. Bottom nut;
2. Bottom washer;
3. Mandrel with liner;
4. Upper washer (it presses on the silent block);
5. Second nut.

Once again, make sure that the inner sleeve remains free. The two nuts on the screw must be tightened, checking the result with a caliper.

Owner reviews

Replacing the silent blocks of the Renault Logan front levers is successfully carried out in one case: during installation, a force of 100-120 N*m must be applied. It's a lot. There is often concern that the thread may break. The “VAZ kit” was not designed for such loads. In general, all of these actions are carried out at your own peril and risk.

Ball joint for Lada Largus: selection and replacement - AutoExpert

The front suspension arm on a Lada Largus car is removed if it is damaged or when replacing silent blocks. In this article we will talk about the procedure for removing the front suspension arm from the car. One of the features worth noting is that the ball joint is pressed into the suspension arm. Changing it in a garage is very difficult, since you will need a specific puller.

It is also worth mentioning that the ball joint can be changed only once, and only if the newly installed support has the R marking on it, and before that there was a support without such a marking. That is, there is no R marking on the “original” ball joint and it can be replaced. If you already have a ball joint with the marking (letter R), then such a ball joint cannot be replaced, since it has already been changed, that is, it will be necessary to change the entire lever assembly with the support.

The repair ball joint includes a retaining ring, by which it can also be distinguished from the “original” one, where a retaining ring is not provided.

Tools required to replace the front suspension arm of Lada Largus

You will need: keys “13”, “16”, TORХ TZO.

Brake the car with the parking brake and install wheel chocks (“chocks”) under the rear wheels. 1. Loosen the wheel bolts, lift the front of the car, place it on stands and remove the wheel. Loosen and tighten wheel bolts only with the vehicle on the ground. 2. Unscrew the lower fastening nut..

Articles

Renault produces silent blocks both individually and assembled with levers. The part is designated as follows: 6040002245 (60 40 002 245). Analogues:

• 26304 (FEBI)
• 60 92 6304 (SWAG)
• TD729W (DELPHI)
• C8617 (LYNXauto)
• 30292 (ASAM)
• 4500001 (FORMPART)
• 53210 or 33124 (MAPCO)
• FZ90454 (FORTUNE LINE)
• L25819 (MONROE)
• 38DC1002 (AS METAL)
• V46-0268 (VAICO)
• MGZ-508014 or 72-1956 (MAXGEAR)
• 5103924 (NK)
• F8-7977 (OPTIMAL)
• D300165 (DENCKERMANN)
• 4340201409 or EMS8502 (JP GROUP)
• DC11001 or B56112 (RIW)
• 57-00732 (TALOSA)
• 8500 25819 (TRISCAN)
• 77-00862-SX (STELLOX)
• 31242 01 (LEMFORDER)
• RESB3746 (MOOG)
• JBU751 (TRW)

It seems that the last three are praised. But there is nothing better than the original. And the cheapest analogue is produced by SWAG.

The shelf life of rubber is 5 years. For fluorine rubber the figure doubles

In general, when choosing spare parts, pay attention to the date of manufacture. Pure rubber is not used in the manufacture of silent blocks, but it is better not to buy something that was produced 7 or 8 years ago.

DIY Largus suspension repair

It’s easy to understand how important suspension is in a modern car by taking an ordinary cart as an example. As a rule, driving on bumpy roads on it is not synonymous with comfort. In order to smooth out all the irregularities and dampen vibrations as much as possible, rear and front suspensions were invented. In addition, this system connects the wheels to the body.

The purpose of all pendants is the same. But the design features are different. For example, Lada Largus is a representative of the budget class on the B0 platform and has a simple suspension arrangement.

Removing “old” silents

When carrying out a replacement, the most difficult thing will be to get rid of the “old” silent blocks. The steps look like this: fix the lever and use a drill d=3-4 mm to make a set of holes in a circle. Then, using a jigsaw, installing a file with a fine tooth (“A” or “B”), we cut the rubber. You can also use a regular jigsaw here.

At the last step, having laid wooden blocks, the lever is secured in a vice. The outer sleeve is sawed with a hacksaw. And try not to touch the metal of the lever so that it does not rust.

In theory, replacing the silent blocks of the Renault Logan front control arms looks no more difficult or easier than on any other car. Many people say that the “old” silent block can simply be knocked out. But it seems that they did not encounter a replacement.

Case from practice

You can hear from owners that rubber can be easily cut with a knife. Maybe this is true when the mileage is about 100 thousand km.

At a mileage of 170 thousand, many of the bushings crumble. In theory, it remains intact, but only until the lever is removed.

If the mileage is short, stock up on a drill and jigsaw. Well, and patience, of course, too.