Replacing the rear brake drums of a VAZ 2115

Adjusting the pressure

First, you need to adjust the parking brake.
This device always requires adjustment after repair work. Secondly, the rear brakes are adjusted so that the system locks the rear wheels a little later than the front ones.

Knowing the structure of the brakes, loosen the bolt securing the pressure regulator, using a screwdriver, move the bracket of the regulator drive lever to create a gap of about 2 mm between the lever and its spring.

We carry out a test - we accelerate the car to 40 kilometers, then sharply brake. Someone observing the process from the outside notes whether the wheels are locked correctly. If the front wheels lock later than the rear ones, then the adjuster must be moved in the direction of decreasing the gap. Then test again until correct wheel locking is achieved.

How to prepare a car for repair? Let's do it right!

It is best to carry out repairs in an equipped garage or a suitable room where there is good lighting. It’s good to have a light carrier in case you have to carry out work in the dark or in low light.

Advice! Make sure the machine is parked on level ground. If we are changing the pads on the left side, then we need to put two “shoes” or supports - under the front right wheel and the rear right one, so that the car is stable during jacking. And vice versa, if we are repairing the right side, then the “shoes” are placed on the left side under the front wheel and the rear.

First, using a 19mm wheelbrace, you need to loosen the wheel bolts. Then remove the rear wheel, after lifting the car with a jack. To do this, unscrew the bolts with a wrench and put them in one place. If the wheels have hubcaps, the bolts can be folded into them. The main thing is that when you assemble the wheel, you do not look for them.

PRINCIPLE OF OPERATION OF THE BRAKE SYSTEM

We consider the operating principle using the example of our hydraulic system with drum brakes:

By pressing the brake pedal, we transfer the load to the booster, this booster creates additional force through the master cylinder
In this case, the piston of the master cylinder forces (pumps) fluid through pipelines (pipes and brake hoses) to the wheel cylinders
This increases the brake fluid pressure in the brake drive.
From this, the pistons of the wheel cylinders move (press) the brake pads to the drums (or discs, if the brakes are disc)
Further pressing of the pedal increases fluid pressure and triggers the brakes.
The mechanisms lead to a slowdown in wheel rotation and the formation of braking forces when the tires come into contact with the road
The more force we apply to the brake pedal, the more effective the braking is.
When braking, the brake fluid pressure reaches 10-15 Megapascals
When braking is completed (and the brake pedal is released), it is moved by the return spring to its initial position
The piston of the brake master cylinder also returns to its initial position.
Spring mechanisms (elements) pull back the drum (disc) pads
In this case, the brake fluid from the wheel cylinders through hoses and pipelines is forced into the reservoir of the master brake cylinder
Pressure drops in the brake system

Tools

Replacing the rear pads of a VAZ 2112 cannot be done without the necessary tools:

Two screwdrivers, flat (slotted) and Phillips
Jack
Balloon wrench
Pliers and needle nose pliers (pliers with thin and long jaws)
Deep head 7 with extension and wrench or ratchet
A 30 head with a strong wrench may come in handy (if you suddenly fail to remove the brake drum)
Wire brush

What are brake pads for?

But before we start replacing them, let's understand what brake pads are and how they work. So, brake pads are the most important part of a vehicle’s braking system, responsible for stopping it in a timely manner. The pads can be installed on front and rear wheels. Their operating principle is quite simple: the driver presses the brake, the force of which is transmitted to the brake pads; at this moment they fit tightly to the drum (or disc, if the pads are front) and do not allow it to spin, as a result of which the wheel stops spinning and the car slows down.

Problems when paying with bank cards

Sometimes difficulties may arise when paying with Visa/MasterCard bank cards. The most common of them:

There is a restriction on the card for paying for online purchases
A plastic card is not intended for making payments online.
The plastic card is not activated for making payments online.
There are not enough funds on the plastic card.

In order to solve these problems, you need to call or write to the technical support of the bank where you are served. Bank specialists will help you resolve them and make payments.

That's basically it. The entire process of paying for a book in PDF format on car repair on our website takes 1-2 minutes.

If you still have any questions, you can ask them using the feedback form, or write us an email at

Small but important tips

Advice!
Always have a special liquid in your “first aid kit” for your car - “VD-40”.
It is capable of penetrating deeply into rusted and scalded joints of adjacent metal parts. By spraying the joints with it, you can easily unscrew the bolts, nuts, etc. To make this easier, gently tap the drum with a hammer on the reverse side, helping it move off the axis.

Advice!
Brake drums are made of various metals - cast iron, duralumin or an alloy of metals and sometimes they are not very resistant to impacts.
Therefore, before tapping the body with a hammer, it is good to place a small wooden block between the surface of the metal and the hammer. As a result, the block will absorb sharp impacts and help protect the body from damage. If it is not possible to remove the drum from the hub immediately, then perform the following operation. We spray the threaded holes that are used to remove the drum with “VD” liquid, screw in the guide pins until the drum separates. Tighten them well and tap them with a hammer on the back of the drum. Gradually unscrewing the pins, we tap the front part of the brake drum. At the same time, do not forget to place a wooden block.

On a note
.
There is one unpleasant nuance. The thread of the guides is very thin, especially considering the material from which they are made - duralumin or alloy. Very soft and flexible. Therefore, it is best to use special bolts, which are inserted into the same holes, rather than guide pins to remove the brake drum. Recently they began to be sold complete with brake pads. Therefore, you can safely use them without worrying about damaging the guide pins.

We clean the connection between the drum and the hub axle from dirt and carefully treat it with VD-40 liquid. Now we unscrew the guide pins or bolts, and the drum can be easily removed.

Do-it-yourself replacement of rear struts on a Priora

So, first of all, when the car is still on wheels, we remove the plastic plugs from the pillar cups from the interior side. It is under them that the shock absorber mounts are located.

If you have a special wrench, then use it to unscrew the nut securing the strut from above, holding the rod from turning. If there is no device, then we hold the rod with improvised means.

Once the nut is free to rotate, you can move to the lower shock absorber mount. To do this, remove the rear wheel and apply penetrating lubricant to the threaded connections. We wait a few minutes and unscrew the nut securing the rack from below.

We knock out the bolt if it is soured using a hammer and a punch. When you have dealt with this, you need to completely unscrew the upper fastening nut.

Now you need to pry up the shock absorber and remove it from its seat in the rear beam using a pry bar.

Now you can remove the entire shock absorber assembly, as well as the spring of the Priora rear suspension.

If necessary, we replace the struts with new ones, as well as springs if they are already worn out. The spring can be removed without any problems, after which we remove the boot and reassemble everything in the reverse order with new parts.

Causes

VAZ 2109 brake malfunction

Causes of malfunctions:

For some reason, brake fluid leaks from the cylinders.

Note: Low brake fluid can be the cause of many vehicle problems. Therefore, you need to regularly ensure that it is in sufficient quantities.

The brake pedal does not move well. In this case, when you press it, the brake setting does not reach the wheels in the optimal time, so there is a delay in the brake.
Air in the brake system. In this case, air can get here in various ways (perhaps the car was recently repaired, and the mechanic did not keep track of something, or missed a valve).

Brake pedal doesn't work

VAZ 2109 does not brake the rear wheel

In this case, the pedal does not necessarily not work at all. It works, but not correctly. That is, when you press it, the load is slightly increased. And even if the driver does not press the pedal hard, the braking is too noticeable. In this case, the car brakes “abruptly”: at first it goes quickly forward, and then returns back. You can fix this problem like this:

First, change the parts of the cylinders that are no longer working at full strength.
The brake pads need to be thoroughly washed and dried (if they are too coated with oil, they will not function properly).
You need to check the brake system for air in it. If it is still there, then it must be removed immediately.

Note: The air in the brake system is the same as the air in the human body. And when it reaches the periphery point, the body (car) will stop working correctly.

Replace rings and hoses, and then bleed the system.

VAZ 2109 does not brake the rear wheels

The disc should be thoroughly sanded. You need to measure its thickness. If it is too small (less than 17.8 mm), then the disc urgently needs to be changed, since when braking it does not have time to slow down its speed in the required time.
Change the O-rings.

Long braking

VAZ 2109 no brakes

After the driver pressed the brake, braking did not occur. To resolve this issue, you should:

Wash and dry the pads. This is necessary in order to get rid of unnecessary amounts of oil.

Note: if necessary, the brake pads can be replaced altogether. This is necessary if they are already out of order.

Replace parts that are damaged. Bleed the system. If the pistons are jamming, then this problem must be corrected.
Allow all brake components to cool if they are overheated.
If your car has pads with inappropriate linings, they need to be replaced.

Note: it is advisable to use pads recommended by the VAZ 2109 manufacturers.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nXaQTpTp_jQ

Not all wheels release brakes

VAZ 2109 if the front brakes do not work

That is, not all wheels begin to brake in time. This problem is solved like this:

You need to see if the brake pedal is working correctly. If not, then the pedal free play should be adjusted.
Sometimes gasoline seeps into the cylinder that contains the brake fluid. This causes the cylinder rubber to swell slightly.

Note: In this case, replacement of damaged parts is necessary. You should also flush the entire system with brake fluid.

If the cylinder piston jams, you need to check it and, if necessary, replace it.
It is also advisable to adjust the protrusion of the adjusting bolt. It is necessary that it protrudes no more than 1.25 mm.

Dismantling and installation

Of course, you will not be able to install new disc brakes on the rear axle of the VAZ 2110 until you remove the drum mechanisms. To dismantle them, do the following:

The wheel is removed;
The drum is dismantled;
The pads are removed;
The brake pipe is unscrewed;
The hub is removed from the wheel.

In words it looks simple, that's a fact. But in reality, certain difficulties may arise. First of all, due to sticking of elements and sticking of fastening bolts as a result of corrosion. In order not to suffer with them, treat them in advance with the almighty WD40, which will dissolve rust and “scale”, and remove them without serious effort or harm to the edges of the fasteners.

Fastener drawings

Now we proceed to the installation, in which the old drums are sent to their well-deserved rest, and new disc brakes take their place.

When you knock off the hub, it needs to be put back in place.
Install the element through a plate with a caliper built into it.
Make sure all holes line up and alignment is correct.
Use a hammer to adjust the angle of the beam. The caliper should not rest against it.
Place the brake disc on the hub. A spacer is placed between the elements and the disk is fixed with brackets in its new place.
Now install brake pads selected specifically for the VAZ 2110.
First, attach the brake hose to the caliper, and then connect it to the pipe.
The friction material of the pad must be partially worn off. This is necessary so that the braking force on the rear brakes is less than on the front.

How to replace the master cylinder

It is necessary to remove the upholstery in the engine compartment to gain access to the cylinder. To do this, unscrew three self-tapping screws on the VAZ-2110. The brake system, the malfunctions of which are discussed in the article, is hidden under this upholstery. It is worth noting that there is no need to completely remove it. Just bend it a little. Once access to the cylinder is gained, the liquid level sensor must be disconnected. Then you need to unscrew the cap from the expansion tank. Using a bulb or syringe, pump out all the liquid. After this, unscrew the tube fittings from the cylinder. Put them away.

Now you can unscrew the two nuts that secure the GTZ to the vacuum booster housing. Remove the cylinder along with the expansion tank. To dismantle the latter, just pry it off with a screwdriver. Installation of the master cylinder is carried out in the reverse order. In this case, it is necessary to bleed the system. However, almost any repair of the VAZ-2110 brake system ends with bleeding.

Installation

It's time to install disc brakes instead of the removed rear drum brakes.

Having knocked off the hub, we will put it back, but in a different way:

It should be installed through the plate into which the caliper is already mounted. Carefully ensure that all holes line up

Particular attention to alignment; Next, use a hammer to straighten the corner of the beam so that the caliper does not rest against it; Now you can put the brake disc on the hub, placing spacers between these parts, and secure the disc with a bracket; We install brake pads from VAZ 2110; First, carefully and securely attach the brake hose to the caliper, and then to the tube; To reduce the braking force of the rear brakes compared to the front, you need to partially grind off the friction material of the pads.

pros

Let's look at why disc brakes are better than drum brakes:

Braking becomes more reliable, braking distance is reduced; Braking forces are distributed more evenly, given that the VAZ 2110 is a front-wheel drive car; There is an effect of faster response after pressing the pedal; Unsprung masses are reduced; Heat dissipation occurs better, which is especially important when driving on a mountain road or during active acceleration/braking. For this reason, the brake system is cooled better; Disk ones are much easier to dismantle and replace; There is no need to adjust the handbrake after each repair of the rear brakes, although this will have to be done the first time; They do not freeze in winter after washing, like drum ones; Rear disc brakes installed on the VAZ 2110 are much more convenient to control and promptly notice pad wear.

Grooving brake drums of trucks and cars - malfunctions

For both trucks and cars, there are two ways to restore the brake system:

replace the brake drums with new ones;
Grind the brake drums.

The optimal solution in this situation is to buy new drums. But often the cost of replacing parts with new ones is quite high. And with constant use of the car, the additional costs may not be affordable for everyone. The option of boring car drums is cheaper, so it is in great demand among motorists. It is this method of solving this problem that many of our fellow citizens are increasingly resorting to.

To grind or bore - this means that on a special machine or stand, using the grooving method, defects and irregularities are eliminated from the working surface by removing (removing) a layer of metal. Experts sometimes call this process restoration or preventive maintenance.

So how much exactly should you withdraw? For each individual model, the manufacturer sets the minimum allowable thickness. These are precisely the numbers that are normatively acceptable. And you can see them either in the user manual, if the car has standard drums, or in the operating instructions from the manufacturer.

Machine and stand for boring brake drums - a solution to the problem

Not so long ago, a motorist did not even have to choose where and how to bore. I simply took them off and took them to the lathe. Where an experienced turner, who knows his business well, gave your spare parts a “second life” in turn. It was a rather complex and time-consuming technological process.

Boring is not just a banal grinding of the top layer of the working surface

It is also important to adhere to all parameters when balancing regarding the drum and wheel hub. Inaccuracies or failure in one of the stages of this process can lead to serious and sometimes tragic consequences

Therefore, it is recommended to approach these moments with all responsibility and attention.

Nowadays, modern service station masters have at their disposal a specialized miracle machine in which all parameters can be programmed, and grinding, grooving, or boring of the drum occurs in the specified program mode. This will minimize the likelihood of errors and errors in this technological process.

Grooving with removal is usually carried out on a stationary lathe or a specialized stand for boring drums. The process without removal is carried out using a portable specialized machine for grooving. The option of boring yourself or grinding the drums using improvised means is possible, although this method looks rather dubious in terms of its effectiveness and further operational safety.

In the case of professional grooving by a master using specialized equipment, we will receive:

elimination of runout;
increasing the efficiency of the braking system;
increasing the service life of brake drums;
real savings on the family budget (which is nice).

Well, now let's summarize:

It is quite possible to drill the brake drum yourself. However, to complete this process you, at a minimum, need to be prepared to fulfill two conditions: to be a turner of a certain qualification and to have a lathe. In all other cases, using common sense, it is better not to take risks.

Cast iron

The disadvantages of this material are directly opposite to the advantages of aluminum. That is, cast iron drums are heavy, expensive and rust, so they need to be painted and treated with anti-rust. However, their reliability is beyond praise: they are temperature stable (the handbrake does not stick even in deadly frosts), they do not creak, something that aluminum often suffers from, their geometry is correct from the moment of purchase and does not require adjustments throughout their service life. True, you will need to buy stronger pads for them - soft ones will quickly wear out.

Another advantage is that they practically do not stick.

: Cast iron drums that have been in service for years often do not even require the use of a sledgehammer.

As for going overboard with weight, this argument is somewhat dubious: in aluminum drums, the working surface is also filled with cast iron, that is, the gain in lightness is not so great.

An additional bonus is the ability to choose a manufacturer: cast iron drums are produced by many firms and companies.

VAZ 2115 brake drum cast iron or aluminum

The time has come to replace the brake drums, I wanted to take the same aluminum ones as they are now. The store said it was better to take cast iron ones, but they couldn’t explain why they were better. So which ones should you take?

Roma_Mayorov
27 October 2011, 18:26

Stanny_Sokolovskiy
October 27, 2011, 6:31 pm
v

Sergka_Malishev
27 October 2011, 18:32
v

Roma_Ostrovskiy
28 October 2011, 02:42
v

Alekhandro_Goncharuk
October 28, 2011, 12:48 pm
v

Roma_Ostrovskiy
October 28, 2011, 6:44 pm
v

Maksim_Kudryavtsev
October 28, 2011, 20:41
v

Solid cast iron, i.e. heat is distributed better. And therefore it should brake better. On the other hand, cast iron is heavier, and therefore has more inertia, i.e. its weight is added to the weight of the wheel and according to the plan it should brake harder.

I don’t know what wins in this balance. I think nothing.

Personally, I use cast iron.

PS another minus of cast iron is the appearance. collapse branch

Dmitriy_Ponomarev
29 October 2011, 14:04
v

Sergka_Malishev
October 29, 2011, 10:06 pm
v

Maksim_Kudryavtsev
October 29, 2011, 10:49 pm
v

Sergey Ponomarev, cast iron bends easily. so I wouldn't say they are stronger.

Pasha ¤¤¤ EVOSIF fucking KOBZDON ¤¤¤ Malyshev, I didn’t understand what to take apart. collapse branch

Some drivers wonder which brake drums are better, cast iron or aluminum. And this is not surprising, because the material is different, it has its pros and cons. All this needs to be understood in order to answer the question posed. Of course, when choosing, each driver relies on his own knowledge and reviews. It is worth remembering that not only your safety, but also the comfort of movement depends on the quality of brake drums.

It is worth focusing your attention on this matter and carefully examining the presented models. There are currently two types of brake drums:

Cast iron;
Aluminum.

Which brake drums are better, cast iron or aluminum - this is a question that arises among many drivers. The safety of not only the driver, but also the passengers depends on this.

It is very important that the system works like a clock, without failures or jams. Of course, at the first malfunction they can be easily changed

But this is extra money and time. There are times when the brake drum simply sticks to the base and is not very easy to remove.

You have to resort to physical force, spend extra effort and money. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to regularly check the brakes and lubricate them. It is not very easy to answer this question, since cast iron and aluminum have their own characteristics, pros and cons. We will talk about them further.

Many can say that this material is very popular and lightweight. It can compete with cast iron drums, which is not surprising. The main advantages include:

Price category. This part can be purchased much cheaper than cast iron. The fact is that during production it does not require a lot of time and money;

Weight. The aluminum drum weighs almost nothing, which is great. Due to this, the driver will not have problems with servicing the system, removing the drums;

Corrosion. This material is absolutely not susceptible to corrosion.

This is very important for any driver, since you will not have to spend additional money to prevent the process;

Cooling. The material cools down very quickly, which is important.

Adjustment

After installing the disk mechanisms, a leak test procedure and, of course, bleeding are required.

But the work cannot be considered completed at this point, since the braking force needs to be adjusted.

The efficiency of disc brakes is much higher than drum brakes, therefore the braking force regulator must be adjusted.

This unit is located at the left wheel, fixed to the body and connected to the beam by means of a small traction. Loosen the fastening of the rod to the regulator (sorcerer), move it 2-4 millimeters back. In this position, the thrust is fixed. Such manipulations allow you to deceive the sorcerer

It will distribute less braking force to the rear brakes. Drive the car in favorable weather conditions for several days after replacing the brake system, brake carefully, and do not press hard on the pedal. Please note that “rolling” can have both a positive and negative effect on the behavior of the car. If the car behaves well, it means that you managed to correctly replace the drums with discs

If problems arise with the stability and balance of the brakes, it is advisable to entrust the adjustment to specialists from good service stations.

Installing disc mechanisms at the rear is a competent and correct decision for all VAZ 2110 owners. Of course, if the drums behave well, there are no complaints about the quality of braking, and you are not going to increase the power of the power unit, then there is no clear need to switch to disc brakes. But if you do this over time, you will clearly experience the difference between discs and drums from your own example.

Source luxvaz.ru

Problems and their solutions

There are several common problems associated with brakes on a VAZ 2110 car. The reasons for their occurrence may be different, but the solution is always the same - timely and high-quality repairs.

The brakes have completely lost their effectiveness, pressing the pedal does not cause any reaction. In such a situation, it is categorically impossible to drive anywhere under your own power, even if we are talking about a trip to a service station? How do you brake? About a wall or pillar? Call a tow truck and start repairs. In some situations, the problem can be solved on the spot, but these are temporary measures.
During braking, strong vibrations are observed, most often in the steering column. At the same time, when you press the pedal, it is difficult to hold the steering wheel in your hands. There may be several reasons for this:

If you have non-ventilated discs installed, similar situations may arise during rain or when braking through a puddle. Such devices do not like moisture, so to get rid of vibrations, replace the disks with ventilated ones;
Another cause of vibrations is faulty drums. If there are dark spots on the working surface of the drums, the unit wears unevenly. Immediate repair or complete replacement of mechanisms is required;
Be sure to check for signs of deformation on the front brake discs. They often cause vibrations.

Pressing the brake pedal is very tight, it is physically difficult to press it properly. The reasons are also different:
The vacuum booster itself is faulty, the tips and diaphragm are damaged, the movement of the check valve is disrupted, and there is damage to the connecting hose. Each of these problems causes the pedal to become stiff. The solution is to repair failed components;
The pads can wear out over time, which is also often the cause of a stiff pedal.
Pressing the brake causes a hissing sound. Check at what point the hissing starts. If you directly press the brake pedal, then the vacuum booster is checked first. Depending on the degree of damage, it is replaced or repaired. If there is a hissing sound when you release the brake pedal, then nothing bad happens. This is a completely natural phenomenon. Of course, if the hissing is not very loud and intense.

As you can see, the brake system of the VAZ 2110 car is far from perfect in its factory version, but it performs its functions effectively and reliably. All possible malfunctions can easily be fixed independently, but in some situations it is advisable to contact a professional service station.

Didn't find the information you are looking for? on our forum.

Rear

For clarity, we recommend watching a video about replacing the rear brake pads on a VAZ 2110. This will make it easier to complete the task and have a visual representation of each stage of repairing the brake system.

It will be good if you once installed disc elements on your rear brakes. The beauty of them is that the process of replacing the rear pads will be similar to the front ones.

In some cases, depending on the design of the rear brakes, it may be necessary to completely remove the rotor and caliper. All other activities are carried out in exactly the same way as in the case of the front pads.

The situation is completely different for those who use factory drum braking systems. The work will have to be done delicately, but completely achievable on your own.

To get started, arm yourself with a set of tools, which includes:

Balloon wrench;
Jack;
Pliers;
Screwdriver;
Hammer;
Sharp chisel;
Open-end, socket and ring wrench sizes 12, 13 and 17 - 3 sizes of each type of wrench.

Now we proceed directly to replacing the rear brake pads.

Place chocks under the front wheels and remove the rear wheel.
Unscrew the guides using a 12mm wrench.
Guides are required for fixing to the axle shafts of the drums.
It may be quite difficult to remove the drum from its place. This is where you will need a hammer and a wooden stand. Tap the inside of the drum. It is strongly not recommended to hit the drum directly with a metal hammer, as the mechanism may be damaged.
If the drum cannot be removed even after hammering, treat the contact areas with the hub with WD40 or other penetrating lubricants.
Then, arm yourself with pliers and remove the springs from the bottom and top of the pads.
Remove the guide spring located in front.
This will allow you to completely remove the block.
When the bar is removed, you can begin to remove the spring from the rear pad.
Well, now remove both parts of the block. When removing the back one, remember the hook. It comes from the handbrake cable.
After removing the old block, put a new one in its place. Assembly is carried out in reverse order.
But there is one caveat - the bushing must be removed from the drive arm, which will greatly facilitate the reassembly process. The upper part of the pads is inserted into the grooves located on the cylinder rod.
Be prepared for the fact that certain difficulties may arise when installing a new element. The reason is the large output that remains as a result of the operation of old brake elements.
Take two pry bars and squeeze the two blocks together to bring them as close as possible. At this point the replacement can be considered completed.
At the last stage, mandatory bleeding of the brake system is carried out. Without it, not a single intervention in the design of car brakes can be done.

As you can see, replacing the pads is not difficult if you act consistently. The best option is to install disc brakes everywhere. They are easier to work with, they are more efficient in their tasks, plus replacement is carried out without any problems, unlike drums.

Removing and installing the rear wheel brake drum.

The maximum permissible diameter of the drum working surface is 201.5 mm. Replace the drum if the diameter is greater than or equal to the maximum permissible value.

There should be no burrs or deep marks on the working surface of the drum. Otherwise, replace the drum or grind its working surface on the machine.

After grooving, grind the surface with fine-grained abrasive stones; after processing, the diameter of the drum should not exceed 201 mm.

Replace the drum if cracks are found.

You will need: a “7” wrench, two mounting blades, a hammer, a wooden spacer.

1. Engage 1st gear and install thrust blocks under the front wheels.

2. Make sure that the parking brake lever is pushed all the way down (the car is released).

3. Remove the rear wheel and clean the brake drum from dirt.

4. Using a 7mm wrench, unscrew the two alignment pins.

5. Apply a liquid such as WD-40 to the hub and, after waiting a few minutes, clean off any dirt and rust from the area.

6. Use a hammer to remove the drum from the hub using a wooden spacer.

7. Remove the drum from the hub. If this fails, knock it down with a hammer, striking through a wooden spacer on the collar on the back of the drum.

8. . or compress by driving pins or suitable bolts evenly into the two threaded holes of the drum.

9. When installing an old drum, use a file to remove the collar on its working surface, formed as a result of wear.

10. Install the drum in the reverse order of removal. Pre-lubricate the hub seating belt with graphite grease or LSC-15 grease and bring the pads together using two mounting blades.

11. Check that the wheel rotates easily. Light brushing of the drum against the pads is allowed. With the car stationary on the ground, press the brake pedal two or three times to move the brake pads to the drum.

Repair and diagnostics of VAZ cars.

replacing the Kalina camshaft position sensor, adjusting the Kalina clutch, removing the bumper of the VAZ Kalina, the electric motor of the cooling system fan. Kalina, remove and install the rear bumper of the VAZ 2112, Lada key does not learn, Lada Kalina heater, Kalina controls, Kalina gas exhaust system, VAZ 2112 malfunctions, diagnostics of Kalina steering tips, how to check the removed Lada Kalina controller, VAZ 2112 control panel

Contact site moderator nkvd#russia.ru

Buy, sell used VAZ, Lada cars. 2010 (C) LADAOMG

Let's start replacing

To replace the rear pads on a VAZ 2112, you need to place your car on a level surface, place “shoes” or other supports under the front wheels, and engage first gear. Then:

Loosen the rear wheel bolts
Using a jack, we hang up the rear part of the car body, and instead of a jack we use special supports (chocks or sawhorses, if available)
Then we finally unscrew the bolts securing the rear wheels and remove the wheels
Before disassembling the rear brake mechanism, it is necessary to wash it with water and a special detergent, then dry the mechanism thoroughly

Unscrew the pins from the brake drum

Using a brush, clean the seating surface of the drum, then screw special bolts into the service holes of the drum.
Screw in the bolts one turn at a time to remove the drum.
From many years of practice, we know that the drum often sticks tightly to the hub due to the peculiarities of the operating mode
In this case, it can be removed by tapping it through a wooden block with a hammer (in this case, the blows should be applied alternately and preferably from opposite sides)
You can try to remove the drum using a flat screwdriver (insert the screwdriver between the edge of the drum and the casing and squeeze it out)
At the same time, do not forget that the drum is made of aluminum alloy; if handled roughly, it can simply burst; the cost of careless and rough handling will be unexpected
Having removed the drum, take a ruler or a caliper and measure the thickness of the linings on the brake pads
The permissible thickness of the overlays is 1.5 millimeters
When the thickness is slightly more than the maximum permissible thickness, operation of the machine is allowed, but you should not be deluded by this fact
Just a couple of hundred kilometers of driving on our Russian roads and then the prospect of dismantling the rear brake mechanisms is again on the horizon
Therefore, if the thickness of the linings approaches the maximum permissible value, it is better to replace them immediately and forget about problems with them for a long time

Use a screwdriver to remove the pressure spring

Then, use pliers (nose-nose pliers) to disconnect the lower return spring

Disconnect the lower brake spring using needle nose pliers

Now, using a screwdriver, remove the pressure spring from the rear brake pad
Unscrew the lower part of the brake pad upwards, move it up and disconnect the upper return spring

Disconnect the upper return spring

Using needle-nose pliers, disconnect the parking (hand) brake cable from the operating lever
Then remove both pad assemblies from the brake shield
We disconnect the spacer bar from the pads, then remove the cotter pin and take out the axial pin and washer together
Remove the parking (hand) brake lever from the brake pad

We take out the cotter pin, shown in the figure with a red arrow, take out the pin and remove the hand brake lever

When installing new brake pads, it is necessary to recess the pistons of the working brake cylinders
Now is the time to remember the warnings at the beginning of the article that the liquid may overflow. Check the level, pump out if necessary
Don't forget to hook the end of the handbrake cable to the lever attached to the block!
We install the rear pads on a VAZ 2112 in strictly reverse order.
Considering the fact that after assembling and placing the car on wheels, you should press the brake pedal all the way down several times to return the pads to their working position
Put on the brake drum, then install the wheel
Carry out the same actions on the other side, do not lower the wheels to the ground
Then press the brake pedal several times
We go down under the car and adjust (pull) the handbrake cable
By tightening the nut on the cable equalizer, check the tension
Inside, we lift the handle of our parking brake, count the clicks, if there are more than eight clicks, then tighten the nut a little and check again
The optimal number of clicks is considered to be from two to seven
The main thing is to check that when the parking brake lever is raised, the wheels are locked (our wheels are not lowered, so we try to turn them by hand)
When the handbrake is removed, the wheels should rotate freely, without jamming or friction of the pads. Otherwise, when the car is moving, the drum may jam when heated

That's it, the process is completed, everything seems to have been taken into account, all that remains is to watch the video if something is still not clear.

Removing a jammed or stuck brake drum

The brake drums of the rear wheels of a VAZ car wear out during operation; deep scuffs may appear on the inner surface of the drums that cannot be removed by grooving. There is only one verdict: replace the brake drums with new ones.

Having reached a value of 201.5 mm, we can talk about the maximum wear of the drum.

To determine this indicator, the drum is measured in several places with a caliper. If the inner diameter becomes larger, replacement is required. To install new drums you need to remove the old ones.

Before you remove the brake drum on the vase, you need to prepare your tools. We will need a jack, a lubricating fluid like WD-40, a set of wrenches, a pry bar, and a metal brush.

We put the car on a flat surface and leave it in gear;
Loosen the wheel bolts;
Raise the car with a jack;
Unscrew the rear wheel bolts and remove the wheel;
Next, unscrew the 2 brake drum guides;
The part of the drum that is adjacent to the hub or axle shaft of the car, as a rule, becomes heavily clogged with dust and road dirt; it must be thoroughly cleaned with a wire brush. Due to contamination, the drum very often literally sticks to the hub, and it is quite difficult to remove it immediately. In order to remove it, you need to tap around the entire perimeter of the drum with a hammer. Usually hit through a wooden board to avoid damaging the drum, or you can use a rubber mallet. The drum is mostly made of aluminum and is easily damaged;

Now, pry it off with a screwdriver and remove it. If suddenly it is still not possible to remove the drum, it is pressed: to do this, the wheel pins are screwed back in slowly and carefully. At the same time, you can replace the bearings of wheel hubs or axle shafts (VAZ classic), and also do not forget about the brake pads, they also need to be replaced with new ones;
It is important during the replacement process, when the drums are not on the car, not to press the brake pedal so as not to damage the brake cylinder mechanism;
Before installing new drums, spread the brake pads apart with a pry bar;
We carry out assembly in reverse order. After installing the wheels, press the brake pedal firmly several times until it stops, the pads will fall into place.

Knowing how to remove a jammed brake drum on a vase, you can replace brake drums on any car with rear drum brakes. Also remember that reels can only be changed in pairs at a time; replacing just one is not allowed.

Installation

Installation is always carried out in the reverse order of dismantling. But in order not to get confused in this work, we will discuss this issue in more detail.

To begin with, we need to push the piston of the brake system cylinder all the way inside.
It is necessary to attach the handbrake rod to the new rear block. This must be done in exactly the same way as was the case with the old node, and in no other way.
We put the cotter pin in place.
How much we suffered before we pulled out the guide spring. Now it's time to bring her back. We attach it to the block.
The cable is connected to the handbrake rod.
The previously removed upper spring is now attached to the pads at one end and the other.
Now get ready to perform the most important stage of the work: we place the block on the brake cylinder, in the place where it should be. We tighten it a little from below so that the spring stretches and makes it possible to place a spacer bar in the niche. We insert the bar. After this, we put the second block in place, but only so that it does not fit into the hole of the strip.
Armed with pliers, we engage another spring with the assembly. But here, keep in mind one important nuance: the cable should under no circumstances touch the parts of the drum that are in motion, otherwise it can lead to serious consequences.
We are approaching the end of the work process. We install the drum in place, fasten it with bolts, and install the wheel.

The work is completed. For the first time, it is better to put detailed instructions in front of your eyes, so as not to get confused and make a mistake, it would be good to also watch video materials on installing brake pads.

The second time, this work will be performed automatically and will take no more than half an hour. The main thing is not to delay replacement: brake pads are a serious matter that cannot be tolerated, because they ensure the safety of the vehicle.

Now we take a set of new friction linings out of the box and put them in place. We will need to install the cotter pin and drive arm pin support washer. The upper ends of the pads must fit exactly into the grooves of the piston. The slightest distortions are excluded. To bring the pads together, you need to move the piston to the center of the cylinder.

Replacement

In principle, assembly occurs in the reverse order, although there are some peculiarities:

To achieve normal brake fluid pressure, in the future, it is necessary to drive the piston of the brake cylinder inside;
Connect the handbrake rod and the block, be sure to insert the cotter pin;
Connect the guide spring to the brake pad;
Connect the cable to the handbrake rod;
Connect the upper spring to the installed new block;
You need to rest the second shoe on the heel of the brake cylinder and pull its lower edge. The spring is tensioned, the bar can be inserted;
All that remains is to insert the second block and place it in the slot of the bar;
Using pliers, engage the spring with the second block;
After making sure that the cable does not get affected by the movement of the parts that make up the brake mechanism, it is necessary to install the brake drum in place;
All that remains is to tighten the guide bolts, then install the wheel.

We do the same with the other wheel.

Device

Before disassembling, you need to know the structure of the braking system. The VAZ 2110 has hydraulic brakes with distributed circuits. One circuit is the front right and rear left mechanisms, the second circuit is diagonal.

The hydraulic drive includes a (also dual-circuit) pressure regulator. It helps regulate the brake fluid pressure on the rear brake systems. It is through the regulator that the fluid flows to both rear mechanisms.

Hydraulic brake circuit diagram

Adjustment is carried out through four chambers. Their design is as follows: two are connected to the main cylinder, and two, respectively, to both cylinders of the rear brakes.

For high-quality braking, it is necessary that the entire system works smoothly, there is correct adjustment and reliable mechanisms.

Bleeding and adjustment

After any manipulations with the brake system (it doesn’t matter whether you repaired the rear, front or parking), on a VAZ 2110 it is vitally important to bleed the brakes so that an air plug does not form anywhere in them, which can negate the ability to brake at the right moment.
It is convenient to do this together, but you can do it yourself, although this requires some additional equipment . Many people know how to bleed the brakes on a VAZ 2110. The main thing is not to forget to do this diagonally, always starting with the front wheels, and pump the right one first

It is convenient to do this together, but you can do it yourself, although this requires some additional equipment. Many people know how to bleed the brakes on a VAZ 2110. The main thing is not to forget to do this diagonally, always starting with the front wheels, and pump the right one first.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=jkYHTz9lNgM

After bleeding, you still need to check the braking forces. This requires an outside observer. You accelerate and brake sharply, and he watches as the brakes apply. The front ones should work first, then (with a small gap) the rear ones, and the braking force should be greater for the front ones.

How to remove a brake drum on a VAZ 2110

When the car is new, the driver does not experience any problems with it. But a certain time passes when the car has already traveled a sufficient number of kilometers and something in it begins to work not as it should. For example, when braking, the driver hears a creaking noise. The brake drum of the VAZ 2110 makes itself known. Find out that it needs to be replaced. It is possible not only based on real sensations

Pay attention to actual wear and tear

To assess the condition of the brake pads, you don’t even have to remove the rear brake drums on the VAZ 2110. You can simply use the inspection window and look into it. After removing the rubber plug with a screwdriver, inspect the lining. Their thickness should not be less than 1.5 mm. During operation, they wear down and can no longer provide a quick stop after pressing the brake pedal.

If the thickness of the linings is smaller, the rod itself also moves incorrectly. This leads to leaks. Fluid is lost and, as a result, pressure changes. And this can already lead to problems with the entire braking system.

What is better for making a brake drum, cast iron or aluminum?

Despite the existence of disc options, rear brake drums are still used on cars. In this regard, some motorists ask the question: which brake drums are better, cast iron or aluminum, for the VAZ 2110? Cast iron is superior to aluminum in strength, but is much heavier. But still, many motorists prefer cast iron products. They are stronger and easier to remove. But still, the disc system is superior to brake pads. It is 15-20% more effective. Therefore, the motorist himself has to decide which brake drums are better for the VAZ 2110.

Disassembly

Of course, before replacing, the question arises: how to remove the brake drum on a VAZ 2110? For this operation, it is better to drive the car onto an overpass. You can, of course, do this on level ground, but first you need to jack up the car.

Algorithm of actions:

It is necessary to remove the wheel and disc.
Next you need to unscrew the two guide bolts.
Very often, drivers are interested in how to remove the brake drum on a VAZ 2110 if it is stuck. The problem can be solved by tapping it with a hammer through a board.
Then, using pliers, the tension spring is removed.
The retaining guide spring, which holds the block in place, is then removed.
Then the block itself is removed.
The upper spring weakens, and the block itself turns to the side.
Similar actions are carried out with the second block.
The spacer bar is removed.
The handbrake rod is disconnected from the cable.
It is necessary to remove the cotter pin and disconnect the spring. The brake pad can now be removed.

This completes the removal of the VAZ 2110 brake drum. Now all that remains is to replace it with a new product. To do this, assembly should be done in reverse order.

After this, pressure adjustment is required. First of all, you need to adjust the parking brake. After repair work, this device always needs to be adjusted. Then the rear brakes are adjusted.

The adjustment must be made in such a way that the rear wheels lock a little later. Then the car must be tested. To do this, it should be accelerated to 40 km and then braked sharply.

Replacing the rear brake pads of a VAZ 2110 yourself

Replacing rear brake pads

If when braking a car you hear a terrible creaking sound, which gets on the nerves, especially of the car owner, then replacing the rear brake pads of the VAZ 2110 will solve the problem. There are, as a rule, two ways to solve this problem: either contact a special service center where the work will be done, or repair the brake pads yourself. However, if you have decided to carry out the work yourself, you must remember that to do this you need to have professional skills and special knowledge of car repair, otherwise this will not lead to any good consequences, and may even worsen the situation. However, replacing the rear brake pads on a VAZ 2110 is not as complicated an operation as it might seem at first glance. Below we will tell you and show you how to do the work correctly.

How to replace brake drums?

Replacing brake drums is not an easy task and often requires experience, considerable knowledge and specialized tools. To replace it, you need to remove the car wheel and disassemble the drum. It is usually also necessary to remove the vehicle's wheel bearings and replace the pads. The above steps require unscrewing the arm of the jaw adjuster itself, as well as reassembling and correctly assembling this element. Since the parking brake operates through drum brakes in many cases, it will be necessary to disengage it from the jaws and then reinstall and adjust it before replacement. It is recommended to replace the dismantled wheel bearing with a new one; rarely reusable. In addition, we must not forget to check the level of brake fluid, which is located in the expansion tank on the master cylinder. Experts also suggest measuring the boiling point of the brake fluid, for which we will use a special tester. In addition, let's not forget that all replacements should end with a diagnostic path to ensure that everything was done correctly.

Rear brake mechanism diagram (brake drum)

Let's say we are sure that the rear pads have died and need to be replaced with new ones. Ten to fifteen years ago, no one even thought of throwing away old worn-out pads; they scrupulously changed the linings, riveted them and put them on special glue.

Now this is easier, the public has become richer and can afford to replace the entire element. In order not to forget what the rear brake mechanism looks like, below is a diagram.

Brake mechanism diagram

Grooving stages

The grooving procedure itself consists of 3 key steps. This is precisely the principle that specialists adhere to, and those who do the work with their own hands rely on it.

First stage. At the first stage, the initial removal of a layer 0.5 mm thick is carried out. This makes it clear how much the drum material is worn, what its current condition is, and whether there are more serious defects;
Second phase. Next comes the procedure of smoothing, leveling and subsequent removal of all existing irregularities. About 0.25 mm of the metal layer is removed;
Third stage. He's the finisher. This involves finishing sanding and removing all remaining small nicks and chips.

Having sharpened the brakes, a smooth working surface remains, and braking efficiency increases significantly.

But this procedure only allows you to get rid of irregularities. If there are geometric errors, the groove will not help at all. Similar phenomena occur if strong temperature changes occur.

Thank you for your attention! Subscribe, leave reviews, ask questions and tell your friends about us!

(1 ratings, average: 5.00 out of 5)

How to remove the pads

In order to remove defective rear pads from a VAZ-2110, you need to prepare the following arsenal of a car mechanic:

a jack is needed to raise the rear of the car
key 12, it will become the main tool in our business
pliers are useful for removing parts
hammer, yes, you will have to make physical efforts to knock out old parts
a screwdriver, a good helper in removing old pads
the block is an excellent stand.

Work begins

The very first thing you need to do is put the car on a jack. Remove the rear wheel and disc. Our view opens to a drum (6), attached to the entire structure with two bolts (cotter pins (7)). These need to be removed. Here you will need a 12 key (you can also use an 8 key). it is just suitable for working with tens of pads. Remove the brake drum (6). This is probably the most difficult thing in the process of replacing the rear pads, because over the years of the car’s service the drum “sticks” almost tightly, and in order to remove it without damaging it, you will have to work hard. A hammer, which needs to be tapped, will help here on the drum, but only before this it is important to place a previously prepared block in order to prevent deformation of the drum, otherwise it will not take long and break into pieces, which we, of course, do not need. Carefully and slowly remove the spring securing the rear pads of the car

The spring is removed using pliers or a simple screwdriver (9). Now you should disconnect the spring (8) fixing the block on the shield (1). We loosen the upper spring (3), which secures the unit. In order to loosen the spring, you need to turn the block a little to the side, about 50-60 degrees. To remove the unit, carefully remove the part from the support and the brake cylinder (2)). To do this, you need to grab the block (4), not connected to the handbrake (a sorcerer in common parlance)

We pull the part as if we are trying to move the pads apart from each other. You will have to loosen the part several times until it is disconnected and pulled out. In order to remove the second block, we disconnect the handbrake rod (sorcerer) from the cable. Now the block is easy to pull out

The process of removing the units is completed, now you can begin replacing the old pads with new ones.

Installation is always carried out in the reverse order of dismantling. But in order not to get confused in this work, we will discuss this issue in more detail.

To begin with, we need to push the piston of the brake system cylinder all the way inside.
It is necessary to attach the handbrake rod to the new rear block. This must be done in exactly the same way as was the case with the old node, and in no other way.
We put the cotter pin in place.
How much we suffered before we pulled out the guide spring. Now it's time to bring her back. We attach it to the block.
The cable is connected to the handbrake rod.
The previously removed upper spring is now attached to the pads at one end and the other.
Now get ready to perform the most important stage of the work: we place the block on the brake cylinder, in the place where it should be. We tighten it a little from below so that the spring stretches and makes it possible to place a spacer bar in the niche. We insert the bar. After this, we put the second block in place, but only so that it does not fit into the hole of the strip.
Armed with pliers, we engage another spring with the assembly. But here, keep in mind one important nuance: the cable should under no circumstances touch the drum parts that move. otherwise, serious consequences may result.
We are approaching the end of the work process. We install the drum in place, fasten it with bolts, and install the wheel.

We wish you good luck and good mood!

Replacing rear pads

Replacing the rear pads of a VAZ 2110

First you need to prepare the necessary instrumental support. In order for the replacement of the rear pads on a VAZ 2110 to be successful, you should arm yourself with the necessary tools. In this case we will need:

Key for 12;
Hammer;
Wooden block;
Pliers;
Screwdriver;
Jack.

Removing the pads

The set of tools is not so extensive. You can start working. The first step is to clear the workspace and put the car on a jack. So, let's begin the repair work. Step 1:

First you need to prepare the car for removing the rear wheel;
Carry out the operation to remove the rear wheel;
When the wheel and disc are removed, you can see two mounting bolts on the drum that should be unscrewed. A wrench will come in handy here (usually suitable for 12).

We remove the brake drum.

Note. This action may be quite difficult and may take some time: very often the brake drum “sticks” and it is difficult to remove it. In this case, you should use a hammer and hit the drum, but be sure to attach a wooden block or flat metal object to soften the blow and not crack the drum body.

Taking a screwdriver or pliers, carefully remove the spring that tightens the rear brake pads of the VAZ 2110;
Disconnect the guide spring - the one that secures the brake pad to the shield.

Replacing the rear pads of a VAZ 2110 is easy

We remove the block from the support bar.

Note. To do this, you need to take the brake pad that does not have a direct connection with the handbrake rod, and pull it along the shield, as if spreading the brake pads apart from each other. It is necessary to continue this action until the brake pad is disconnected from the support bar.

Replace the rear brake pads of a VAZ 2110

Now you should try to loosen the spring, which is located on top; it tightens the brake pads.

Note. In order to carry out this operation, you need to turn the block itself 60 degrees to the side. As soon as it appears that the brake pad can be removed, you need to do so.

We perform a similar operation to remove the next brake pad.

Replace rear brake pads on a VAZ 2110

After the second spring is disconnected, the spacer bar should be removed.

Disconnect the handbrake linkage from the cable.

VAZ 2110 rear drum pads

You should definitely look and remember, or even better, sketch the connection between the handbrake rod and the brake pad;
Using pliers, you need to disconnect the guide spring and remove the cotter pin, after which the block will detach by itself.

This completes the dismantling process.

Installation of pads

VAZ 2110 rear brake pads

The next step is to prepare for the installation of new brake pads, and in fact, their installation is all the steps that were taken during disassembly, only in reverse order. So, here's what you'll need to install your brake pads. Step 1:

Install the brake cylinder piston: to do this, push it in as far as it will go;
Connect the handbrake rod to the new block in the same way as it was connected to the old block;
Insert the cotter pin.

Take the guide spring and connect it to the brake pad of the VAZ 2110;
Attach the handbrake rod to the cable.

VAZ 2110 rear block

The upper spring needs to be connected to the newly installed brake pad, and its other end must be connected to the second new pad, which is now to be installed.

Installing rear brake pads

First you need to rest the brake pad on the corresponding heel of the brake cylinder;
Then pull the brake shoe by the lower edge, while the spring should tighten, which will allow you to insert the spacer bar;
Insert spacer bar;
You need to take the second brake pad and slide it into place so that it fits into the slot in the spacer bar.

Engage the remaining spring with the brake pad of the VAZ 2110 using pliers.

Rear wheel drum diagram

Note. It is imperative to pay attention to the fact that the sheath of the handbrake cable should not touch the moving parts inside the brake drum.

Next you need to install the brake drum in its place.

Now you need to tighten the two mounting bolts using a 12mm wrench;
Reinstall the wheel.

All that remains is to put the wheel in place

So, the brake pads of the VAZ 2110 were replaced. Now you can start replacing the other side of the car, all operations are similar. Video and photo materials will help during the work process. If you do everything yourself, be sure to follow what the instructions indicate! This way you can avoid mistakes. In addition, by carrying out the work yourself, you can save a lot of money, because the price for such services from specialists is sky-high. You can also find out about replacing front brake pads on our website.

Troubleshooting possible replacement problems

There are relatively few difficulties when replacing brake pads. As a rule, they are associated with souring of bolts due to rust. The drum elements that are most susceptible to corrosion are the mounting pins. In case of possible difficulties, the drum is removed along with the rear wheel hub, and when unscrewing the studs, it is allowed to use a penetrating lubricant such as WD-40

However, when working with brake mechanisms, lubricants should be used extremely carefully, avoiding their contact with the working surface of the pads or disc (in the case of the front wheels). Otherwise, the efficiency of the brakes may be significantly reduced, up to severe slipping between the working surfaces of the pad and drum linings or disc

To summarize, we can note the ease of replacing brake pads on a VAZ-2110. The procedure does not require special skills or tools; it can be done in an ordinary garage without any particular difficulties. Knowing the order of operations when replacing allows you to complete this procedure quickly and efficiently.

Sources

Replacement of rear brake pads VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112

If, when braking on a VAZ 2110, 2111 or 2112, a motorist hears a grinding noise and feels vibrations, most likely the rear brake pads need to be replaced. There is no need to delay repairs. Traffic safety directly depends on the serviceability of the brakes, and the pads directly take part in stopping or reducing the speed of the car. The cause of the malfunction may be resource exhaustion. The average is 45 thousand km for the rear pair. The intensity of wear depends on operating conditions, so in an urban environment the pads wear out faster. Another reason for replacement may be malfunctions: destruction of the protective layer and exposure of the structure. You can take the car to a car service center or do the repairs yourself. It is important to understand the devices of this node.