It is very possible to start a car engine without using an electric starter. To do this, you will either need to push the car well, or ask someone to take you in tow. But, you must admit, there are not always passengers in the cabin with you who would help you start the car from the pusher, and not every driver you meet will agree to carry you.
Unfortunately, problems with engine starting occur everywhere on domestically produced cars. As for the starter, it itself fails quite rarely. But the parts that ensure its operation often fail.
In this article we will talk about what a starter solenoid relay is and understand its design using the VAZ-2114 as an example. In addition, we will consider its malfunctions, as well as possible malfunctions of other elements of the engine starting system that have similar symptoms.
The design of the starting device and where the starter relay is located on the VAZ-2114
The “fourteenth” starter is a conventional DC electric motor, consisting of:
- housings;
- four-pole armature (rotor);
- Bendix (overrunning clutch);
- solenoid (traction) relay.
The device body is closed with two covers. In the design of an electric motor, it plays the role of a stator. Inside it there is a four-pole armature (shaft with windings), rotating around its horizontal axis. The shaft is supported by two support bearings located in the motor housing.
The Bendix, or overrunning clutch, is a mechanism that engages the armature gear with the crankshaft flywheel ring. It is located at the front of the rotor.
Where is the starter relay located on the VAZ-2114? It is located right on it. Above. In fact, this is not an ordinary, in our understanding, device that closes contacts. It performs two functions at once. It closes the contacts of the armature winding and also drives the bendix and gear.
Necessary tool
Starter relay VAZ 2114
Without tools, dismantling and installing a new part cannot be accomplished. The procedure for removing the solenoid relay or starter assembly requires a simple set of wrenches. The following tools will be useful for trouble-free work:
- Socket wrench and open-end wrench 13.
- Phillips and flat head screwdrivers.
- Key for 10.
- New retractor.
A simple set with all types of keys will be useful to any driver, because... No one is immune from sudden breakdowns of VAZ cars. The advantage of the 2114 model is that repairing most components is cheap, and even a novice driver can change the retractor on a VAZ 2114.
Operating principle
When the ignition is turned off, the armature, thanks to the spring, is in the extended position. The Bendix gear, however, is not engaged with the flywheel crown. When we turn the ignition key to the second position, voltage is applied to the relay contacts. The magnetic field created by the retractor coil drives the armature. It moves backward, compressing the spring, and closes the contacts through which voltage is supplied to the starter. The retracting winding is turned off at this moment, and the holding winding is turned on.
During movement, the armature moves the fork along the rotor shaft. She, in turn, moves the bendix, bringing the gear into engagement with the flywheel. When we release the ignition key, the voltage on the holding coil stops flowing, and the armature returns to its original position under the influence of the spring. The fork, at the same time, disconnects the Bendix gear and the flywheel crown.
Checking with the starter removed using a multimeter
This test of the solenoid relay allows you to very accurately perform internal diagnostics and determine the condition of the windings and contacts. Dismantling the starter, depending on the make of the car, is carried out in various ways. For VAZ 2110, this procedure is carried out from below from the pit. Before unscrewing the fasteners, remove the wires (it is better to mark the terminals so as not to confuse them during assembly); you may need to remove the crankcase protection.
To begin with, voltage is applied from the battery to the body and terminals of the relay; operation is accompanied by a characteristic click and visible movement of the rod. Further checks are carried out using a multimeter, which is switched to resistance measurement mode and the range of 200 Ohms is selected.
Video: Checking the starter removed from the car
First, check the serviceability of the retractor and retention coils. To do this, one of the probes is connected to ground, the second touches the contacts in succession. The device readings are 2 ohms. Deviation of the device readings from the specified value is a sign of a break or short circuit. To check the power contacts, remove the core from the relay body and remove the return spring, after which the core is inserted back. The core rod is pressed against the table with a certain force and the resistance between the contacts is replaced. The resistance is approximately 1.5 ohms.
Signs of a malfunctioning retractor relay
A faulty traction relay can be identified by the following symptoms:
- when the ignition is turned on, there is no characteristic click accompanying the movement of the device’s armature to the rearmost position (the starter does not turn, the engine does not start);
- a click is heard, but the trigger does not fire;
- The relay is triggered, the starter starts the engine, but does not turn off.
If you turn on the ignition and find that the engine does not start, and one of the listed signs of a faulty starting device is present, try to find the problem yourself. In some cases, the damage may be on the surface, and it will only take a few minutes to fix it.
Electrical diagram of VAZ 2115
Such models are marked with the numbers F2 10A Direction indicators, relay-breaker for direction indicators and hazard warning lights in hazard warning mode. Then release the pressure, turn off the power to the fuel pump and turn on the ignition. In some cases, the problem in the operation of certain devices is solved by reconnecting the plug if it is a question of poor contact of the device with the electrical network. Lift the pump assembly and pull out the electrically powered fuel pump. It has an anti-theft device. In this case, the blocks “12” are connected to the washer pump, and the wires connected to the pumps “13” and “14” are connected to the corresponding solenoid valves.
As a result of the change in the circuit, changes were made to the design of some electrical circuits. Table 7. Distributive fuel injection systems are controlled electronically.
Using a screwdriver, unscrew the 2 screws that fit the fuel lock and pull it out. Learning to read a car's electrical diagram. Part 1. Auto electrics.
No clicking of the solenoid relay
The absence of a click may indicate that either there is no voltage supplied to it, or there are problems with the pull-in winding. First of all, we check the wiring. To do this, visually inspect the positive wire going to the relay from the battery, and then the thin wire from the ignition switch. If possible, check the voltage level with a voltmeter (multimeter), connecting its positive probe to the terminal on the relay from which the wire goes to the battery, and the negative probe to ground. The device should show battery voltage. If this indicator is lower, you need to look for a problem in the wiring.
If there is voltage to the relay, try to start the engine directly, without the ignition switch. To do this, disconnect the wire coming from it and use a screwdriver to close the relay contacts (output to the battery and output to the starter). It worked? Deal with the contact group of the ignition switch.
Preliminary safety notes
- Voltage above 36 volts is considered dangerous to humans. Electric shock of 0.1 ampere is fatal. The situation is aggravated by high humidity and metal flooring.
- The starter is a DC electric motor capable of delivering 260 amps at maximum load.
- Interfering with bare hands or metal tools into the current circuits of a switched-on unit is dangerous to health. Dismantling, repairs, and installation must be performed with the battery power turned off.
- Testing windings for interturn short circuit and insulation breakdown to ground is performed with a megger. The generator of the measuring device produces voltage up to 2500 volts. It is prohibited to touch the contacts during the verification process.
- Electric motor equipment requires care and experience. Printed and electronic publications are not deprived of the right to errors or typos. An incorrect wrench size will quickly become apparent. A play on Russian words will sound, untranslatable into foreign languages. Things will go further. The inaccuracy of the diagram is hardly noticeable.
- At the first symptoms of uncertainty or lack of knowledge, you should contact a professional auto electrician. The safety of car wiring and on-board electronics is valued above personal ambitions.
There is a click, but the starter does not turn
If you clearly hear the relay click when you turn on the ignition, the problem is most likely in the starter itself. Perhaps the brushes are worn out, or there is a break in one of the windings. In any case, further diagnostics without dismantling the device is impossible. If a break in the windings is detected, you can try to restore the starting device by entrusting it to winding winding specialists. If things are generally bad with it, it is better to buy a new starter 2114. The price for it varies between 3700-5000 rubles.
Fuse box
The VAZ 2114 car has a total of two mounting blocks.
The first and main one is installed in the engine compartment above the windshield on the left. Relays and fuses are located there. Actually, largely because of this, it is often called a fuse block rather than a mounting block.
The unit cover is held in place by special plastic clips, which makes it easy to snap and remove. On the inside of the cover there is a fuse diagram, the rated current of each individual charger.
Under no circumstances should you install a charger into the mounting block whose current strength exceeds the rated values provided for in the circuit. This may lead to electrical equipment failure.
In the image above you can see that there are tweezers in the corner of the block. It is specifically included in the design, since it is used to dismantle and install new fuses.
In total, the power supply includes 17 active fuses (F1-F16) and four more backup fuses - F17-F20.
Also for the VAZ 2114 there is a second block with fuses. It is located inside the cabin under the glove compartment and shelf. This PSU includes the following fuses:
- For fuel pump. Rated current -15A;
- For fan relay, speed sensor, mass air flow sensor and oxygen sensor. All of them have a rated current of 7.5A;
- To protect the ignition unit and electronic engine control unit. Their normal current is also 7.5A.
Purpose of the memory
In order to quickly resolve issues with failed fuses, VAZ 2114 owners should figure out which charger is intended for what. This will make it much easier for you to navigate the notations. Use a special table.
Protection for the lamp and turn switch, hazard lights, white reverse lamp, instrument unit power supply, trip computer, alternator winding, low oil pressure warning light, parking brake, brake fluid and low battery
If the engine becomes unstable, electrical problems arise, light bulbs burn out, or electrical appliances stop working, the first step is to check the effectiveness and integrity of the fuses.
To do this, the following activities are performed.
- Determine the location of fuses that may fail. You already know the diagram, the designations are also familiar to you. Therefore, it remains to be understood that the charger should be looked for under the hood or in the block inside the cabin.
- Be sure to turn off the power to the car. To do this, simply remove the negative terminal from the battery.
- Remove the plastic clips that hold the plastic cover of the mounting block in place. This is how you can easily remove the block.
- Remove the tweezers from the mount, which are located directly inside the mounting block next to the fuses and relays.
- Use tweezers to grab the device that you suspect is broken and pull it out.
- Now you really need to make sure that the fuse is blown and not working. To do this, visually inspect the fusible element. If it comes off or is deformed, it means that the protection has worked, and therefore the fuse will have to be replaced.
- But it is not always possible to detect a memory failure using the visual method. In this case, you will have to use a tester.
- Having reached the truth, that is, having determined that the protective device has failed, it will be enough to replace it with a new one.
Today, a new fuse, depending on its type, costs around 150-300 rubles. If you need to completely replace the entire fuse box, then you will have to spend about 2,000 rubles.
Safety regulations
Now a few more safety rules:
- Under no circumstances insert homemade devices and jumpers in place of broken chargers;
- Never install fuses whose rated current exceeds the values indicated on the housing cover. This may result in a short circuit and fire in the vehicle;
- Do not use metal screwdrivers or other metal tools when working with the mounting block. This even applies if the car is de-energized, that is, the battery is disconnected.
How to replace the VAZ-2114 starter solenoid relay
Now let’s move on to the process of dismantling and replacing the “fourteenth” traction relay. Let us immediately note that for this it is better to remove the starter assembly. This way it will be possible to simultaneously check the condition of its brush assembly and bearings. So, the process of replacing the relay is as follows:
- Remove the negative terminal from the battery.
- Disconnect the wires from the relay terminals and from the terminal of the starter brush assembly.
- Unscrew the bolts securing the starter to the clutch housing. We remove it from its seat.
- Unscrew the coupling bolts securing the relay.
- Disconnect the relay from the starter and install a new one in its place.
- We carry out installation in reverse order.
Engine control circuit (January 5.1, Bosch M1.5.4N)
- Fragment of the mounting block;
- Electric engine cooling fan;
- Automotive anti-theft system status indicator;
- Automotive anti-theft system control unit;
- Coolant temperature sensor;
- Air flow sensor;
- Throttle pipe;
- Block connected to the throttle position sensor;
- Block attached to the idle speed control;
- Controller;
- A block connected to the air conditioner wiring harness;
- Oxygen sensor;
- Knock sensor;
- Crankshaft position sensor;
- Speed sensor;
- Adsorber;
- Accumulator battery;
- Main relay;
- A block connected to the anti-lock brake system wiring harness;
- Diagnostic block;
- Main relay circuit protection fuse;
- Controller protection fuse;
- Fuse for protecting the electric fuel pump and its relay;
- Relay for turning on the electric fuel pump;
- Electric fan switch relay;
- A block connected to the instrument panel wiring harness;
- A block connected to the instrument panel wiring harness;
- Ignition module;
- Electric fuel pump with fuel level sensor;
- Spark plug;
- Injectors;
- F — Front harness wire going to the “B+” terminal of the generator;
- G - Front wiring harness wires.
The order of conditional numbering of plugs in blocks:
- A - Controller;
- B — Control unit of the automobile anti-theft system;
- B — Indicator of the status of the automobile anti-theft system;
- G - Pads 26;
- D - Throttle pipe;
- E - Air flow sensor;
- F - Electric fuel pump and oxygen sensor;
- 3 — Speed sensor;
- And - Ignition module.
Purpose of plugs in block 26:
- To the low-voltage tachometer input in the instrument cluster;
- —
- To the engine management system control lamp in the instrument cluster (from the controller);
- To the dome light switch located on the driver's door pillar;
- To the engine control system control lamp in the instrument cluster (+ power supply);
- To the trip computer (fuel consumption signal);
- To the instrument cluster (vehicle speed signal);
- To terminal “15” of the ignition switch (plug 4 of the switch block).
Other relay
We figured out where the starter relay is located on the VAZ-2114 and how to replace it. But in the engine starting system there is another part with the same name. Yes, yes, it is also called the “starter relay”. Only extra. And its function is completely different. An additional starter relay serves to ensure the safety of the entire starting mechanism. Without it, the brushes and armature windings would burn almost every time it was started.
You will ask again, where is the starter relay located on the VAZ-2114? On the first models of the “fourteenth” it was located in the engine compartment at the top on the partition separating the engine compartment and the interior. On the new VAZ-2114 it is not there. And some “experts” foam at the mouth and prove that cars of the Samara-2 family do not have it at all.
In fact, there is an additional relay, but it is located under the steering column. Just remove the bottom part of the plastic casing and you will immediately see it. This is a regular four-pin relay labeled 98.3777-10 that protects the starter circuit. If you have problems starting the power unit, do not be lazy to check it too.
Purpose of fuses
Starter relay for VAZ 2114: self-diagnosis of the breakdown
What fuses are on the VAZ 2114? The electrical circuit of this car is designed in such a way that in front of all the main electrical units there are chargers located in the fuse box.
VAZ 2114 fuse diagram
The connection diagram of these protective devices is shown in the figure.
- F1 - rated insert current 10 A - protects the fog lamps located at the rear.
- F2 - with a current of 10 A - these are left and right turn lights, an emergency warning light, a relay-breaker for turn lights and emergency lights.
- F3 - with a current of 7.5 A - protection of light bulbs in the cabin and trunk, trip computer circuits, ignition and brake lights, "Check engine" warning light.
- F4 - with a current of 20 A - protects switches located in the heating circuit of the trunk door glass and heating elements of this glass, “carrying” contacts.
- F5 - with a current of 20 A - protects the horn circuit and its switch, as well as the electric motor of the cooling system fan.
- F6 - with a current of 30 A - this is a circuit of electric windows and their switches with contacts.
- F7 - with a current of 30 A - a protective device for three electrical units - a heater, a windshield washer and a headlight cleaner. In addition, there is also a cigarette lighter, glove compartment lighting and winding for the heating switch for the trunk door glass.
- F8 - with a current of 7.5 A - is protection for the right fog light bulb located in front.
- F9 - with a current of 7.5 A - this is protection for the left fog light bulb located in front.
- F10 - with a current of 7.5 A - protects the indicator lights on the left side, the license plate number, the engine compartment light, the dashboard lights and switches with heating levers, as well as the indicator lights for the size.
- F11 - with a current of 7.5 A - protects the right-side headlight bulbs.
- F12 - with a current of 7.5 A - a protective device for the right low beam headlight bulb.
- F13 - with a current of 7.5 A - a protective device for the left low beam headlight bulb.
- F14 - with a current of 7.5 A - protects the left high beam headlight and the blue high beam warning light.
- F15 - with a current of 7.5 A - protects the right high beam headlight.
- F16 - with a current of 15 A - protects the light bulbs and the turn switch and hazard warning lights, the white reverse light, the power supply of the instrument cluster, the trip computer, the generator winding (at startup), the lights indicating low oil pressure, brake fluid and parking brake, battery discharge.
Prices and manufacturers
Where is the fuel pump relay and fuse on the viburnum?
Prices for starting devices may vary depending on the manufacturer and the design of the device itself. Among the product manufacturers we can note such companies as Pramo Iskra (a Russian-Slovenian joint venture), STARTVOLT, LKD (China), BATE (Belarus), PEKAR (St. Petersburg), KZATE (Samara), Avtopribor (Vladimir). Nowadays, you can increasingly find a gear starter on sale - it has an additional gear mechanism that allows the device to operate under increased loads. Such devices are smaller in size and have a longer service life, but their price may be slightly higher.
Below are approximate prices for some types of devices:
Starter manufacturer price table
At the VAZ plant they install a KZATE 5712.3708 starter manufactured in Samara. It is difficult to say whether it is the best in quality, but you can always buy spare parts for it. Many people praise Belarusian products, but problems often arise with spare parts - most often in stores only Bendix is sold as spare parts for it. It should be noted that the starters of VAZ 2108, VAZ 2109, VAZ 2113, VAZ 2114 and VAZ 2115 are no different from each other and are completely interchangeable.
If the starter on a VAZ 2114 does not turn, it is not at all necessary to remove it immediately. The fact is that the relay may be to blame for the malfunction, but not the retractor, but the one that is unloading and is usually installed either under the hood closer to the windshield, or under the steering shaft in the cabin. The relay is connected to the electrical circuit. running from the ignition switch to the VR, and is intended to protect the starter from overload.
But the question of where the starter relay is located on a VAZ 2114 often confuses many motorists, and this question is often asked on forums. The simple fact is that, depending on the year of manufacture of the car, the manufacturer slightly modified the electrical circuit and changed the arrangement of its elements. Then, when installing an alarm system, auto electricians could move the starter relay on the VAZ 2114 to another location.
How to find this tricky relay if it is not clear where it is located? It is necessary to remember how the connection diagram for the starter on the VAZ 2114 is arranged. There are only two supply wires on the VR - a constant voltage of 12 volts from the battery and a supply wire to the VR coming from the ignition switch. It is along the circuit of this wire from the starter that you need to follow, in the end, the wire will lead to the desired relay, in the diagram it is indicated as a locking switch.
Starter connection diagram
Depending on the year of manufacture and the engine control system, the relay might not be installed at all, for example, on cars produced before 2003. In cars produced before 2005, the relay block was installed in the engine compartment next to the vacuum brake booster.
Later, on cars with a Europanel, this element was moved under the control panel, above the pedals in the cabin.
