Ground clearance of the VAZ 2110, increasing the ground clearance of the Lada 2110. How to increase the ground clearance of the VAZ 2110

Many motorists want to increase the ground clearance of the VAZ-2114. This is due to increased load capacity and cross-country ability. But not everyone knows how to do it with their own hands. For this, there are special spacers that are installed between the shock absorber and the body. They are different for the front and rear pillars, but the principle remains the same.

How to properly increase a car's ground clearance

The vehicle's ground clearance is a parameter that does not happen much on our roads. Although, if you look from the other side, it is not uncommon to come across a car on the street with a lowered suspension.

Most often they decide to increase clearance due to the following cases:

1. A loaded car hits the fender liners with its rear wheels or the mudguards on the ground, so they want to lift the rear of the car.
2. It touches the bottom or crankcase protection on uneven roads, so they want to raise the front of the car.

In some cases, they decide to raise the rear and front suspension at the same time. It is no secret to many that after such actions some troubles may arise, wear of some components may increase, and the characteristics of the car may change. Let's try to find the answer to the question: how to increase ground clearance without negative consequences.

What are they needed for

I won’t be unfounded, but I’ll just give simple examples from life. I think they will allow you to understand why it is worth considering the issue of installing spacers to increase ground clearance.

The car is initially quite low. This applies to imported cars, since our automakers understand that fighting the roads is pointless, as is waiting for their quality to improve. Therefore, they try to adapt to current conditions, offering high ground clearance. But even that is not enough. As a result, driving through the next section, you again and again cling to the bottom, crankcase protection, cannot pass the curb, brake before each hole so as not to get hit. All this interferes with normal movement and driving turns into a test.

Installing spacers is the most optimal solution to the problem, if you look at it from a price-quality perspective. They increase rigidity and increase the distance from the bottom to the ground. Fortunately, my car is quite high, but this problem is very close to me, since my friends do not have such ground clearance. Actually, I would like to install inserts for them too, since I have to constantly take my car if we go somewhere in nature or outside the city. But let's not talk about sad things.

I think it’s very clear to you why these spacers are needed and what function they perform. But before you install and even purchase these elements, which are sold not only in Volgograd, but also in any cities such as Moscow, St. Petersburg, Novosibirsk, Yekaterinburg, Krasnoyarsk, etc., I suggest you find out what these spacers are.

How to properly increase a car's ground clearance

The vehicle's ground clearance is a parameter that does not happen much on our roads. Although, if you look from the other side, it is not uncommon to come across a car on the street with a lowered suspension.

Most often they decide to increase clearance due to the following cases:

1. A loaded car hits the fender liners with its rear wheels or the mudguards on the ground, so they want to lift the rear of the car.
2. It touches the bottom or crankcase protection on uneven roads, so they want to raise the front of the car.

In some cases, they decide to raise the rear and front suspension at the same time. It is no secret to many that after such actions some troubles may arise, wear of some components may increase, and the characteristics of the car may change. Let's try to find the answer to the question: how to increase ground clearance without negative consequences.

Suspension adjustment after installation

This completes the installation of spacers on your VAZ 2110. Having returned the car to its normal position, you need to make a number of important adjustments. We are talking primarily about the pressure regulator for the rear brakes, headlights and front wheels.

In the case of the latter, we are interested in their longitudinal inclination angle, otherwise called castor. After installing the spacer on the rear pillars, the rear of your VAZ 2110 will naturally rise, and the castor, on the contrary, will decrease. This will negatively affect the vehicle's stability in motion and its overall handling. Obviously, these parameters are critical for your safety, so it is better to entrust castor adjustment to certified auto mechanics from a car service center.

The first two settings of the VAZ 2110 can be done independently.

Having picked up a speed of about 35 km/h in the car, we sharply brake. At this time, the assistant should observe how soon the rear wheels will lock. Normally, it lags somewhat behind the locking of the front wheel pair. If this does not happen, then return to point 16 of the plan discussed above and change the size of the gap upward.

VAZ 2110 body weight for scrap metal

I took the car for spare parts, I took off everything I could, I wanted to sell it as metal, but there are no scales to weigh the body. If anyone knows, tell me how much the bare body of a VAZ 2110 weighs (without doors, trunk lid, hood, rear and front beams, A-pillars, and fenders) in advance thanks a lot!

Comments 16

330 kg turned out

I also sold it without a roof for 2k, with the price of metal being 6.5r/kg

everywhere? Some of us also have 5. There are also 7, but there the scales are twisted too much))

yes, if you take the current to the city

at a price of 7-8 rubles per kg they give about 2-2.3 k for a bare body. cut into pieces. This makes it easier to transport and weigh

If the body is alive, they can buy a quarter or anyone who needs anything (left glass, roof, rear part), and this is more expensive than scrap metal

It’s a long time and he’s bothering me...

they seem to cost more in pieces)

from a penny entirely without doors and hood - pulled 330 kg, from 10 I don’t know

They accept bodies, don’t listen to anyone, you’ll just have to look where. I personally went there to hand over the metal - there was a gantry crane and scales on a hook, and workers there cut the bodies with a cutter and loaded them into the wagons right away. In small caricatures this may not be accepted, but in general they may require some kind of paper, a passport 100%. I didn’t hand over the body itself, a friend had been carrying a penny for a long time, he didn’t even ask about the weight.

The curb weight of a vehicle is the weight of a vehicle with standard equipment, various consumables (oil, coolant, etc.), but minus the weight of passengers, driver and luggage.

Technical characteristics of the “tens”

Initially, the car was equipped with a carburetor engine with 73 horsepower. What do reviews say about this VAZ-2110 engine? The motor did not differ in dynamic characteristics. Acceleration to hundreds took 14 and a half seconds. And the maximum speed barely reached 165 kilometers per hour. The carburetor required constant adjustment. And consumption in the city is about nine liters per hundred. In 2000, the “tens” came with a 1.5-liter injection engine. This unit was one and a half seconds faster than the previous one. In terms of fuel consumption, it is also more economical. A car spends up to eight liters of 92 per hundred in the city. Maximum speed is 170 kilometers per hour.

But the most valued in the lineup are the 1.6-liter engines. They came with both eight- and sixteen-valve timing mechanisms. These engines produced 81 and 90 horsepower, respectively. The “Ten” 1.6 accelerated to hundreds in 12-13.5 seconds. And the maximum speed was 180 kilometers per hour. In terms of fuel consumption, these engines were very economical - reviews say. VAZ-2110 consumed 7.5 liters in the combined cycle.

Let's start with body transformation

The manufacturer did not set out to create an original design. This car is an average urban station wagon from the 90s. The shapes are smooth, the body lines are straight, there are no bulges. Compared to modern models, Lada 111 remains unnoticed.

We begin tuning the VAZ 2111 with our own hands by installing new bumpers. We replace the civilian front bumper with a tuned one. The car accessories market is replete with all kinds of bumpers, stuffed with body kits, stampings and original parts. There are many options specifically for the standard mountings of the VAZ 2111. Installing front protection will instantly transform the frontal projection of the Lada.

Depending on the concept of tuning the Lada 2111, there are 2 main types of bumpers:

The first option is the details with which the appearance of the car becomes dynamic and aggressive. In this case, there are massive bumper shapes, body kits, original stamped transitions and a lowered design.

The classic style implies a solid low bumper without sharp inserts. This bumper has convenient large recesses for fog lights, radiator grille and air intake. An ergonomic location for the license plate seat must also be ensured.

After installing the front protective element, modifications are made to the side skirts and rear bumper. Leaving only the front bumper is unaesthetic, because when looking in profile, differences in ground clearance are visible. You can customize the parts included or combine styles. When installing tuned body elements, do not forget about the quality of Russian roads. Bumpers and skirts that are too low are impractical.

What can be done What to pay attention to If you are going to repaint your Lada 111, do it before installing the bumpers, so that you can then match the protection to the color of the body. You can do the painting process yourself or rely on specialists. When painting a car with your own hands, you need to dismantle the civilian bumpers, and also seal all the windows, headlights and wheels. Additional tuning of the car after painting is the application of vinyl. Choose the design you like at the tuning studio

Then paste the stencil onto the surface of the body area and paint. After painting, we peel off the excess parts, resulting in an original drawing. The finishing touches will help complete the exterior tuning. This is the modernization of rear-view mirrors, installation of deflectors, air intakes on the hood and roof rails of the VAZ 2111. Many may disagree about the last element, because the roof rails of the VAZ 2111 give the car the appearance of a “country” cargo station wagon. A matter of taste.

Materials used

Reviews from friends, online users and personal observations made it clear that it is extremely important what spacers you buy. When we install the first items we come across, bought for pennies, we greatly risk our own health and the health of our car.

Go shopping, go to the same Aliexpress, look carefully at the drawing of the proposed spacers. But the most important thing is the material they are made from.

Today spacers are produced on the basis of three different materials.

• Aluminum. Aluminum spacers are quite reliable. By installing them, you will eliminate the process of deformation of the bushings, and also provide a fairly high level of comfort. Many spacers have a negative impact on the ride comfort and performance of the car. Aluminum, as a rule, affects these characteristics less than others.
• Polyurethane. Polyurethane analogues are deformed due to the impact of springs on them when you often drive on uneven roads. Therefore, over time, the risk of damage to the body by its own bushings increases.
• Polymer or plastic. Plastic products are the most reliable and high quality. But only on condition that you buy spacers from truly proven and well-established manufacturers.

#7 11:39:39

Master From: Cherepovets Auto: two FF2 Registration: Messages: 24813

Thanked 1412 times in 1251 messages

Now I looked through the catalogues. On 2112 they can install springs from 2110, but this is probably only for 8kl.

Negative consequences of increasing clearance

If the vehicle's ground clearance is increased by no more than 5cm, then there should be no negative effects. But a further increase in clearance will be associated with unjustified difficulties. In addition to those points described above, add less stability of the car on the road (drift and large rolls) and greater wear of suspension components and assemblies. What does it mean ?

When the center of gravity rises and the car rolls and sways while driving, it increases

To prevent a rollover, it is important that the vehicle's suspension is adjusted correctly. An example would be a tall Mercedes A class when it capsized in front of journalists during the “moose test”

Then they delayed the release of the car and began to modify the chassis. It all ended with increasing the elasticity of the suspension and replacing the wheels with low-profile ones. You can combat vehicle roll by installing various additional stabilizers.

"Lifting" the machine

In principle, as we have already noted, this is enough for a more or less comfortable ride. But, of course, many people want to “raise” the VAZ 2110 a little more, based on their realities.

“Raised” VAZ 2110

We will tell you how you can actually do this. But let us warn you right away: “raising” the car above the asphalt level entails a number of unpleasant consequences:

1. Clamping the springs, firstly, will lead to a decrease in comfort while driving, and secondly, the shock absorbers will suffer as a result, which will not be able to cope with their responsibilities;
2. The suspension also suffers from too stiff springs, as this leads to increased loads on it;
3. Corrosion is inevitable when using aluminum spacers;
4. By increasing the ground clearance of the VAZ 2110, car owners risk the stability of the car while driving. The fact is that the center of gravity shifts, the car can rock, and in some cases it can even roll over. Therefore, experts strongly recommend not increasing the ground clearance by more than 5 cm. That is, the maximum limit should be no more than 170 mm!

Shock absorber modification

When transporting large loads (and often VAZ 2110 owners do not listen too much to recommendations regarding load capacity), the car seriously “sits down” and its ground clearance is significantly reduced.

If you have to constantly carry heavy things, it makes sense to install springs with class “A”. Naturally, they will make the shock absorbers stiff, and you will only be comfortable in a heavily loaded car, and without a load it will shake like on a cart.

There are also s, which are installed between the spring coils and do not allow the shock absorber to compress too much.

Interturn spacers in the shock absorber spring

In principle, such a car will no longer sag significantly under load, as well as nod off, but the shock absorber stroke will decrease and it will fail faster.

conclusions

Selecting and installing a spacer for VAZ-2114 shock absorbers to increase ground clearance is quite simple. Even a novice motorist can cope with this task.

It turns out that my husband installed spacers for me secretly :) I thought there were factory ones at the back. Now I'm convinced that this is a revision. It’s clear why my butt is raised so much...

This seems like a joke. If someone is serious about using the 2114 for cargo purposes, it would be better to sell it right away. In a year or two he will simply ruin the car.

Budget options for increasing ground clearance

First option. The easiest option to increase ground clearance by a few millimeters is to replace the standard wheels and tires with tires and wheels of larger diameter. This is perhaps the simplest and most “gentle” method, since in this case you practically do not change the design of the car’s chassis. When increasing ground clearance in this way, it is necessary to take into account the permissible parameters recommended by the car manufacturer; you can find them in the operating manual or from the dealer, or on the manufacturer’s website.

Pros:

1. Increased ground clearance;
2. Slight increase in lumen;
3. Minimum costs.

1. Increased fuel consumption;
2. Violation of the accuracy of speedometer readings;
3. A dirty body due to larger diameter tires, wheels touching the arches when turning for the same reason.

The second relatively inexpensive option is to install special spacers between the springs and the car body. When choosing this method of increasing ground clearance, you need to understand that such modification of the chassis is already considered an intervention in the design of the chassis, that is, you are deliberately changing and violating the factory parameters of your car. How the suspension will behave after such tuning and how this will change the safety of your car is anyone’s guess.

If this does not scare you, you need to choose the appropriate spacer option, since there are several types of them. Spacers can be made of plastic, aluminum, or polyurethane. The main difference between each of these spacers is their service life. Thus, aluminum spacers are the most durable; they will last many times longer than their plastic or polyurethane counterparts. When purchasing, you need to specify where exactly you are going to install the spacers, as well as the type of suspension of your car. There are spacers that are installed between the spring of the shock absorber strut and the body cup, as well as so-called intercoil spacers, that is, those that are placed between the coils of the springs. Different materials are used to make such spacers. In addition to increasing ground clearance, these spacers allow you to stiffen the suspension, thereby avoiding some of the disadvantages that arise after installing conventional spacers. The fact is that interturn spacers reduce car roll when cornering.

Pros:

1. Increased ground clearance;
2. In case of heavy load, the rear of the machine does not sag.

1. Vibration and loads on the body and suspension;
2. The suspension angles change, as well as the car's handling;
3. The shock absorber stroke increases.

The third option to increase ground clearance is to replace the standard shock absorber springs with springs with a larger number of turns. This method is more expensive than the previous two, since it involves the purchase of reinforced springs with a large number of turns and shock absorbers for them.

Pros:

1. Long service life;
2. Uniform increase in ground clearance and no subsidence compared to the effect of spacers.

Homemade spacers

Any spacers are structurally simple, so they are not difficult to make. Moreover, this process is quite creative.

Some make them by simply cutting them out of an old tire, others use ebonite, steel, polyurethane and other materials.

Any tools are good for making. At home, a drill, jigsaw, files, etc. may be useful for this.

Those who have the opportunity to use a lathe simply turn them from blanks.

In general, any suitable material can be used for manufacturing, and it can also be processed with different tools and equipment. The only important condition is compliance with the dimensions.

For cutting, you can try to find drawings, and if they are not there, then focus on the dimensions of the components of the suspension (for example, a spacer for a spring is made based on the diameter of the spring itself and its seat).

In general, if you want to make spacers at home, it is quite possible.

Communities › VAZ.EE › Blog › VAZ 2115- Front pillar spacer

All the best. After my post about lifting the car, I received a lot of questions, how? What? Where? etc. As a result, today I decided to tell you how it was done. The spacer is placed between the front strut support and the engine body. Depending on the make of the car, spacers have different shapes. In any case, the spacer on top follows the shape of the A-pillar support.

This photo shows SS20 spacers, 12 mm thick, which often come complete with supports. Such spacers can be made from different materials, but each material has its own disadvantages. Plastic ones are considered the safest for a car; it is assumed that they do not cause negative consequences. Polyurethane ones have a tendency to deform the body. Metal ones can speed up the corrosion process at the joints with the body, but this effect can be virtually neutralized by simply painting (and protecting with varnish) the spacers before installing them. If you have the appropriate tool or friends at the factory with a milling machine, then you can make such spacers yourself, of the thickness you need. I bought silumin spacers on the market:

To install the spacers we will need to remove the struts. There is no need to disassemble the strut, just remove it along with the hub. It seemed to me that this was the simplest option, which also did not affect the alignment. (You still need to do the wheel alignment, because it will eat more rubber, but getting to the service center is still safer). In order to do this, we need to unscrew 4 bolts and unscrew 4 nuts (not counting the removal of the wheel).

First of all, I would recommend looking at the ball mounting bolts; for most domestic cars, this is a 10mm bolt with a 17mm head. If so, then you are lucky and you should not experience problems with them. However, in recent years, our cars have begun to use foreign standards and you can see a smaller bolt head - an asterisk. A 10mm head fits perfectly on it, but most likely you won’t be able to unscrew it; you’ll tear off the corners. Therefore, you should think about purchasing a head for such bolts in advance. Also, you should take care of the steering rod puller in advance, especially if the car is not very new. My car is 3 years old and without a puller it was already difficult. The puller usually looks like a clamp, one of the pads of which has a cutout (looks like a two-pronged fork):

READ How to Install a Cake Fountain

Source

how to raise the front of a VAZ 21099?

• Understanding

• ordinary user

• ordinary user

• Storky Ol

• ordinary user

• Storky Ol

• experienced forum member

• Sinister!

the question is necessary is not necessary is not worth it. your ass is up, you need to raise your face. how and what is the best way to do this. everything will fit together with the replacement of the front struts and supports. They say that if you put the 10th rack, then the muzzle rises. really no, I don’t know.

If possible, then links to the necessary things, photos, etc. Plz.

• ordinary user

If possible, then links to the necessary things, photos, etc. Plz.

• experienced forum member

• At work

• Sinister!

• So OT)

There are no bad people, there are those I don't like.

• Sinister!

• Chip-Tuning

• Megatheronosaurus

• Sinister!

The CV joints are new. not even thousands of them have been run over.

raise your face , but there is no need to dissuade. it's decided.

It has not been decided how to properly raise it , preferably without spacers.

RAISED THE FRONT INTO THE SKY! TUNING VAZ 2109. AVTOSH STYLE

• experienced forum member

Sources:

https://prodemio.ru/kak-podnjat-peredok-vaz-2109/ https://teron.online/index.php?showtopic=375385

Shock absorber modification

When transporting large loads (and often VAZ 2110 owners do not listen too much to recommendations regarding load capacity), the car seriously “sits down” and its ground clearance is significantly reduced.

If you have to constantly carry heavy things, it makes sense to install springs with class “A”. Naturally, they will make the shock absorbers stiff, and you will only be comfortable in a heavily loaded car, and without a load it will shake like on a cart.

There are also s, which are installed between the spring coils and do not allow the shock absorber to compress too much.

In principle, such a car will no longer sag significantly under load, as well as nod off, but the shock absorber stroke will decrease and it will fail faster.

Relevance

Due to imperfect design and savings on components, which is typical for many simple outdated models like the VAZ-2109, their driving and performance characteristics are at a low level. Therefore, they have very great potential for improving all nodes. At the same time, tuning them is relatively inexpensive. As is clear, such machines are purchased by poor people who, when improving, try to save money, including on work. Therefore, such a thing as home tuning of such cars is common.

Salon

Inside, the car looks just as boring and ascetic. There is a simple two-spoke steering wheel without an airbag, as well as a primitive instrument panel with a pair of arrow indicators.

On the sides of the visor there are large buttons, in which “hellish” backlashes appear over time. There were also gaps on the center console. By modern standards, it does not boast a range of options. But there is everything you need here - a clock, a stove and a shelf for a radio (it was not installed from the factory). A 12-volt cigarette lighter with backlight was provided at the bottom. The seats in the “ten” are fabric, with minimal lateral support. As reviews note, the seats in the “ten” are quite hard, but you can drive for short distances. The rear row of seats is designed for three people.

But in fact, only two fit here. It will be very crowded here for three people. Depending on the configuration, the machine could be equipped with:

• Air conditioning.
• Electric windows.
• Central lock.

Ground clearance of VAZ 2110, increase in ground clearance of Lada 2110

The ground clearance of the VAZ 2110, or ground clearance, as for any other passenger car, is an important factor on our roads. It is the condition of the road surface or its complete absence that makes Russian motorists interested in the ground clearance of the Lada 2110 and the possibility of increasing the ground clearance using spacers. To begin with, it is worth honestly saying that the real ground clearance of the VAZ 2110 may differ significantly from that declared by the manufacturer. The whole secret is in the method of measuring and where to measure ground clearance. Therefore, you can find out the real state of affairs only by arming yourself with a tape measure or ruler. The official ground clearance of the VAZ 2110 is 160 mm when the car is loaded. In an empty car, you can easily measure 180 mm of clearance.

Some manufacturers use a trick and declare the amount of ground clearance in an “empty” car, but in real life we ​​have a trunk full of all kinds of things, passengers and a driver. That is, in a loaded car the ground clearance will be completely different. Avtovaz is honest in this regard. Another factor that few people take into account is the age of the car and the wear and tear of the springs—their “sagging” due to age. The issue can be solved by installing new springs or purchasing spacers for the sagging springs of the VAZ 2110. Spacers allow you to compensate for the sagging of the springs and will add a couple of centimeters of ground clearance. Sometimes even an inch of curb parking makes a difference.

But you shouldn’t get carried away with “lifting” the ground clearance of the VAZ 2110, because spacers to increase ground clearance are focused only on springs

If you do not pay attention to the shock absorbers, the travel of which is often very limited, then independently upgrading the suspension can lead to loss of controllability and damage to the shock absorbers. From the point of view of cross-country ability, high ground clearance in our harsh conditions is good, however, at high speeds on the highway and in corners, serious sway and additional body roll appear

At the rear of the “ten”, so-called “houses” are traditionally used to increase ground clearance. Which simply lift the entire rack assembly. This method is suitable for almost all front-wheel drive Ladas. For an example, we suggest watching the video.

Any car manufacturer, when designing the suspension and choosing the ground clearance, looks for a middle ground between handling and cross-country ability. Perhaps the simplest, safest and most unpretentious way to increase clearance is to install wheels with “high” tires. Changing wheels makes it easy to increase the ground clearance by another centimeter. Do not forget that a serious change in ground clearance can lead to damage to the CV joints of the Lada 2110. After all, the “grenades” will have to work at a slightly different angle. But this only applies to the front axle.

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Pros of this idea

A modification that has only disadvantages usually disappears quickly. The installation of spacers continues to this day. Therefore, there are significant advantages to this.

The advantages of spacers include:

• Increased cross-country ability . It will become easier to drive the car off-road; various bumps and unevenness will be overcome without difficulty. The likelihood that a car driving over hillocks will “sit on its belly” is reduced. In such unpleasant situations, the help of outsiders is usually required.
• Reducing the likelihood of damage . When actively driving off-road or even sharply braking on a flat road with low ground clearance, the percentage of damage is always high; you can accidentally scratch the bottom, damage components: fuel lines, wiring, small parts, etc. There may not be anything “vitally important” located in the lower part of the car, but serious damage can cost the life of your iron friend.
• Preventing "accidental touches" . The car’s bumper or lower body will no longer touch various bushes, curbs and other objects that can be found on uneven terrain.
• Improving the appearance of the car . One way or another, with high ground clearance, even a Soviet passenger car will look more impressive.
• The ability to maintain normativity . There is a certain standard for ground clearance for each brand of car. When it decreases excessively, the vehicle becomes uncontrollable or difficult to control, which is rarely liked by the owners. When installing spacers, it is possible to maintain the standard.

Parameters of Priora bodies

In any Priora body, the characteristics of its wheels and wheelbases will be the same, and therefore it makes no sense to indicate them separately everywhere. These are the parameters:

Meaning

These dimensions are valid for all bodies except the coupe. Hatchback parameters:

1. The distance from the rear to the front point of the car is 4210 mm.
2. The front overhang of the car is 770 mm.
3. The rear overhang of the car is 660 mm.

Station wagon and sedan parameters:

1. The distance from the rear to the front point of the machine is 4350 mm.
2. The front overhang of the car is 740 mm.
3. The rear overhang of the car is 830 mm.

1. The distance from the rear to the front suspension of the car is 440 mm.
2. The wheelbase of the car is 2492 mm.

Overhangs for cars of sportier variants are not specified by the manufacturer. Considering that the Priora's ground clearance is 165 mm, we can choose the best body type that allows us to use ground clearance more successfully than others. Having analyzed all the available characteristics, we will definitely come to the conclusion that the hatchback option is much better than all the others.

Dimensions of Lada Priora

The fairly large wheelbase of the body, despite its small length, allows us to call the car a cross-country vehicle.

However, it is necessary to remind Priora owners that, even if you own a hatchback, you need to be very careful when parking next to high curbs. This warning is especially relevant when your machine is fully loaded

But if the Priora hatchback can, with a stretch, be called the conqueror of forest roads and mountain peaks, then the coupe body cannot receive such a title. Such a car has too long a distance between the front and rear wheels and a very large front overhang. Whatever one may say, it will be difficult to drive along rural country roads. This car design is only good for asphalt surfaces.

However, even they will need to be driven very carefully where there are large potholes and there is a need to overcome artificial unevenness. But since there are no unnecessary or protruding parts from under the transmission on the Priora, you can confidently count on the quality of the available ground clearance.

Despite the absence of parts sticking out from under the bottom of the Priora, you can greatly reduce the ground clearance if you put a lot of people in the car and load the trunk with things. Reducing its length by only 20 mm will be enough for the bottom to touch the surface of the speed bump. It is necessary to force such obstacles with special care in order to eliminate the possibility of breakdowns in time.

Lada Kalina Universal Necross › Logbook › How I swore off lifting cars, part 2

To install spacers under the stabilizer bushings, studs protruding from the body are required, 30 mm longer than the standard ones. First I tried to unscrew the stock ones. But apparently they are driven or welded in there; they couldn’t be unscrewed. Then I shortened them a little and screwed long adapter nuts onto them, and then screwed new studs into the nuts. There were no problems at all with the spacers for the crabs, I just bought longer bolts. True, the crab strut began to hang very low, and before that I sometimes plowed the ground with it (even after lifting the suspension). As a result, with such a suspension, the camber angle became not as large as before (but still positive, you can still adjust it to zero impossible), and the internal grenade came out slightly.

That is, the main problem in the form of positive camber has not been fully resolved, but now there are three more problems: 1. the stabilizer struts are crooked and will quickly fail 2. the crab extension hangs very low and will plow the ground more often. 3. When I got into the car and drove from the dacha to the city (and the car still had the worst VOLTYRE tires and it was raining, which these tires cannot stand), I realized that the car no longer had a steering wheel. The control is very unpredictable, the car simply ignores slight movements of the steering wheel and goes where it wants. To fix this, you need to turn the steering wheel very significantly, and as a result, all the way I was doing nothing but trying to keep the car in a straight line with all my might. I haven’t been so tired behind the wheel for a long time, and such handling is comparable only to the last days of my 2111, when both of its side members rotted. In general, the next day I drove the car back to the dacha, where it ended up sitting for almost three weeks, waiting for it to be brought to life.

I became very sad and began to seriously think about buying a new Kalina Granta FL, or returning this one to full stock. After all, you can just drive with pleasure and not have any problems! But still, the recently purchased sticker really motivated me to make a normal raised car, otherwise such a good joke would be lost! It is clear that the problems with handling are associated with the suspension stiffness, which has dropped significantly after my modifications. It is clear that the stabilizer probably has little effect on the situation, but the design with houses and crab spacers raise questions. I decided to try to change the system a little, and if it doesn’t help, return to the version that existed from 75,000 to 95,000 km.

You can remove the houses completely or give them one last chance and try to weld the spacer better and still stick the lever into the +30mm holes. It was decided to give it one more chance.

The spacers for the crabs can be made more rigid, or they can be removed completely. It was decided to remove it completely, since then the spacer wouldn’t hang so low.

And then the main pair of 4.3 of the tenth design just arrived from Tolyatti and I gave the car along with the main pair, self-locking differential and clutch to the car service vk.com/spb_remont_kpp. I can't help but say a few words about this place. The professionals there are competent, they know their job, they even managed to fit me in place and insert a lock into my box that didn’t fit there (special locks need to be installed in cable boxes, but I brought a regular one). But there is also a fly in the ointment. They work without an appointment, so the car stood idle for almost three days, waiting for its turn. There was little feedback over the phone; I had to call myself all the time to find out how things were going. During one of these calls, I found out that the clutch I bought was not suitable and they decided not to change it, since the original one was quite good (the mileage was 99,000 and I burned the clutch a lot when I got stuck somewhere. It’s amazing how it was still there alive! What is his resource? 150? 200?). But they decided to change the ball joints, which I didn’t ask them to do at all (but the ball joints were knocking, that’s true). In general, we managed to agree to buy and install a clutch instead of a ball clutch, but a sediment remained. They could have at least called and asked before making such decisions. A receipt for spare parts and labor is provided only if you clearly ask for it. But all the shortcomings are fully compensated by direct hands and low prices for work - there is simply nothing cheaper. In general, now I again enjoy driving Kalina, with the main pair 4.3 the standard dynamics are back (maybe even a little better, because in February I had chip tuning), and with the locking the turns have become more interesting and in the mud you can finally slip with two wheels .

V1.0

(approximately +65mm in front and +88mm in rear) 75,000-95,000 km mileage -cup spacer (upper) -Stretching arms, -stretching crabs, -two homemade strut support spacers made of rubber 25mm (sag to about 23mm) -additional steel plate 1.5mm strengthening the strut cup -8 homemade rubber spacers made of 5mm rubber above and below each spring -2 spacers for increasing the track of the front wheels 20mm and wheel studs. -thick upper rubber supports for the front spring (chosen by appearance in the store) -rear shock absorber extensions “houses” -additional rear bump stops (in vain, they worked poorly and quickly died) -tricks so that the steering rod does not touch the body -wheels 205/70R14

V2.0, V2.1

(had a lot of problems, I won’t write the specs) 95000-99000 km mileage

V2.2

(approximately +77mm at the front and +115mm at the rear) 99,000 km—present - cup spacer (upper) - Arm extension, welded together with the “houses”, the arms are lowered by 30mm - crab extension - Extended Demfi shock absorbers +15mm in a circle - two support spacers front pillar factory aluminum 15mm -additional steel plate 1.5mm strengthening the strut cup -6 homemade rubber spacers 5mm rubber above and below the front springs, above the rear springs -2 spacers for increasing the track of the front wheels 20mm and wheel studs. -thick upper rubber supports for the front spring (chosen by appearance in the store) -rear shock absorber extensions “houses” -reinforced upper supports for the rear springs -tricks so that the steering linkage does not touch the body -30mm spacers above the stabilizer bushings -main pair 4.3 -self-locking differential screw AVTOSPRINTER with preload 6 kg - wheels 205/65R15

V2.3

(in plans) - finally connect the two lower braces into the subframe and make crankcase protection, otherwise the old one has broken. -try lowering the engine -install transparent polyurethane CV joint boots (already bought a Trek), they say they last longer. -It might still be possible to weld a second swing arm above the first one on the front struts.

1.If the standard shock absorbers are still alive, there is no particular point in buying extended shock absorbers. Spacers do about the same thing, but are several times cheaper. 2. Raising the front suspension by more than 15-20mm is a very thankless task, mainly because of the steering rods, and to a lesser extent because of the CV joints. To avoid problems with steering wheels, you can install spacers under the spring, increasing the compression stroke and decreasing the rebound stroke. But driving on a small rebound speed is also bad. In general, it seems that the most normal light option without any problems is 15-20mm spacers and 185/70R14 tires. But from the very beginning I wanted more. 3. I think almost all of my experience can also be extended to the entire 2108-2115, 2110-2170 family. Except for the fact that the rear arches of the Kalina are much larger than the arches of the 10th family (and 08, probably, too), so such wheels in the 2110 will not fit on the back so easily. The front arches of the viburnum may also be larger. 4. For extremely high suspension, it makes sense to buy extended levers and drives. I wouldn’t take extended tie rods; the standard ones have a good margin of twist length (in Kalinas the twist is slightly longer than in 2110). As a last resort, you can increase the rods or lugs yourself using welding and an M18 nut (for example, a hub nut from a classic)

Source

Universal intercoil spring spacer for rear and front suspension (2 pcs.) auto buffer

Dear customers, in order to avoid errors when sending a set of round, interturn spacers 2101-2912600U (universal) for the rear and front suspension (autobuffers), in the “Comment” line indicate the model of your car, year of manufacture, for which spring (standard, with variable step, barrel-shaped).

Spring spacers (Autobuffers) are shock-absorbing pads (shock-absorbing inserts) installed in the spring to improve the performance of the car. In a nutshell, changes in the driving performance of a car after installing autobuffers can be described as the effect of air suspension. The high sides of the grooves firmly hold the autobuffer in the spring and do not allow it to jump out.

Spring spacers 2101-2912600U are interturn, universal for rear and front suspension, have the simplest design and are very easy to install. They can be used on rear and front suspension springs. The use of interturn spacers makes it possible not to change the vehicle's ground clearance, while increasing the stiffness of the springs. As a result, the springs can carry a greater load without sagging to unacceptable limits.

The design of spacers 2101-2912600U for rear and front suspensions can be quickly installed without the use of special tools. To install the interturn spacer, it is enough to jack up the wheel and spread the spring as far as possible. The part can be mounted using a regular screwdriver. To make the spacer easier to insert, it must first be moistened in soapy water.

Do not use oil during installation, because spring spacers 2101-2912600U interturn, universal rear and front suspension (autobuffer) will slide along the turns.

Before installation you will need: rags and water to clean the spring, as well as liquid soap or silicone grease to facilitate installation of the autobuffer if it is tight in the spring.

Problems that most motorists face:

— rolls, nods, longitudinal and transverse rocking;

— insufficient ground clearance (the bumper touches, the bottom widens, the wheels rub against the arches);

— instability of the car at speed (swaying, throwing the rear);

— bumps and knocks when driving over uneven surfaces (potholes, asphalt joints, rails, speed bumps, dirt roads, country roads, country roads);

— car sagging (many passengers or heavy load);

— structural rigidity of the car;

— structural softness of the car;

— low car comfort (“stool”, “tin can”, motion sickness);

— rigidity when driving on low-profile tires or reinforced springs;

— damage to the car’s suspension from driving on bad roads (springs, struts, shock absorbers, stabilizer struts);

— poor performance of the short-travel suspension.

Spring spacers 2101-2912600U interturn, universal rear and front suspension (atobuffers) dampen sharp shocks of the suspension, breakdowns occur much less frequently. Driving on broken roads is quieter, vibrations are reduced, and road unevenness is smoothed out. When braking sharply, the car “bites” the front less.

Spring spacers 2101-2912600U interturn, universal rear and front suspension (autobuffers):

— protect the suspension from breakdowns: the service life of shock absorbers and other suspension elements is significantly increased;

— an increase in ground clearance up to 2 centimeters without changing the suspension geometry and without threatening the springs and shock absorbers;

— the car’s handling is improved both on a flat road and on sharp turns: the roll and sway of the car are reduced, and the roll is reduced. The car's behavior becomes more collected and stable.

— the problem of car sagging under high load (many passengers or heavy load) is solved;

- reduce fatigue during long trips.

Other article numbers of the product and its analogues in the catalogs: 21010291260000U, 2101-2912600U.

VAZ 1111 / Oka, VAZ 2101, VAZ 2102, VAZ 2103, VAZ 2104, VAZ 2105, VAZ 2106, VAZ 2107, VAZ 2108, VAZ 2109, VAZ 21099, VAZ 2110, VAZ 2111, VAZ 2112, VAZ 2113, VAZ 2114, VAZ 2115, VAZ 1117, VAZ 1118, VAZ 1119, VAZ 2170, VAZ 2190, VAZ 2192, VAZ 2194, Datsun / Datsun on-Do and mi-Do, VAZ 2121, VAZ 21213, VAZ 21214, VAZ 2123 , VAZ 2131, Lada Urban.

Any breakdown is not the end of the world, but a completely solvable problem!

How to independently replace the front suspension spring on a front-wheel drive VAZ car.

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Engine

Tuning the VAZ- 2109 is carried out using the same methods as for other cars.

The initial and simple step is to modify the intake and exhaust systems.

Replacing the intake system is aimed at reducing air resistance and increasing its flow into the cylinders and involves replacing the air filter, receiver, throttle pipe and intake manifold.

It's very common to change releases. This is also one of the more common engine tuning options. The easiest way is to replace the exhaust pipe; a more professional option involves replacing the exhaust manifold. such tuning of a VAZ- 2109 with your own hands, but this allows you to reduce the resistance of exhaust gases, which helps to more effectively remove them from the cylinders.

To provide the engine with enough fuel, you need to increase the performance of the fuel system. To do this, with easy tuning, the supply pressure is increased by configuring the control program. The highest degree of boost requires replacement of the fuel pump and injectors.

The next most difficult step is modifying the cylinder head. This type of tuning is also used very often.

These works are aimed at improving the shape and increasing the diameter of the cylinder head ducts, which promotes better air movement. These works are carried out using the boring method. Ordinary users can do them using a drill. This kind of home tuning of the VAZ-2109 can be done using video tutorials. After boring is completed, the channels are ground.

Also, cylinder head tuning includes replacing valves. Their characteristics, such as material, diameter, spring hardness, are selected depending on the operating characteristics of the motor (diameter of channels, maximum speed, etc.). Parts from BMW are suitable for the 8-valve engine.

Timing tuning has a significant impact on engine performance. Its main element is the camshaft. Replacing it allows you to select the best supply of fuel-air mixture to the cylinder by configuring the valve lift height. With all this, the torque and power curves are transformed, the highest values ​​are shifted to a certain speed spectrum. In other words, the camshaft determines the way the engine operates depending on the valve lift height it provides. To adjust the camshaft itself, a split gear is used, which allows you to adjust the lift height of the intake valves relative to the exhaust valves. In addition, they use unusual cams to increase reliability.

Work on the bottom of the motor is much more complex, so they are used less frequently in order to increase productivity.

One of the main tuning methods is to increase the displacement. This is achieved by two methods: increasing the diameter of the cylinders and increasing the piston stroke. The cylinders are expanded using the boring method. The piston stroke is increased by replacing the crankshaft, connecting rods and pistons. During severe tuning, the latter are replaced with forged parts. Finally, a lightweight flywheel is installed. Such comprehensive work provides a significantly larger productivity increase than the tuning discussed above. The VAZ- 2109 required for this are relatively inexpensive, and their installation and boring, although labor-intensive, can be done independently.

One of the more productive and complex methods of engine tuning is the installation of injection equipment. It allows you to artificially increase the volume by supplying air under pressure. These devices are represented by compressors and turbines. They differ in the operating principle and the productivity gains they provide. In addition to the part itself, such tuning also requires others (pipes, intercooler, etc.). This is very expensive work. In addition, painstaking calculation is required to avoid damage to the motor. First, you need to take into account the strength potential, and not just the motor. Economical, low-power cars are usually not designed for such loads. Some of them are unreliable even in stock condition, including the VAZ- 2109 . Tuning of this kind, therefore, requires changing almost all components.

Nitrous oxide can be used without other modifications, but is commonly found in motorsports. The substance is supplied to the intake manifold or cylinders, where, decomposing into oxygen and nitrogen, it increases pressure. Installing a simple system allows you to get a short-term increase in power (40-60 hp) for a 4-cylinder engine. To use a more efficient system, significant modifications to the engine are required.

Separately, we can note such a modification as the installation of gas equipment aimed at saving. This is a very labor-intensive and voluminous work that involves changing the fuel system and subsequent engine tuning.