Alternator toothed belt 10.7x8x944 for VAZ 2101-2107 and VAZ 2121, 21213, 21214, 21213, 21214, 21218, 2131 Niva cars without power steering.
Catalog number: 2107-1308020.
VAZ-2121, 21213-15, 2129-31 are a well-known family of SUVs that have gained enormous popularity since the first day of the model’s release in 1977. VAZ-2121 “Niva” is a basic model based on a station wagon with three doors and a transmission with permanent all-wheel drive.
During the production of this car, many different changes were developed and made regarding the body structure, appearance, engine used and many other elements of the car. For example, the VAZ-21213 “Taiga” is a modified and redesigned version of the base car, the VAZ-21214 is a model with a 1.7-liter domestic engine, and the VAZ-21215 was equipped with the French Peugeot XUD 9SD engine. A special place is occupied by copies converted for commercial use. In particular, the VAZ-2129 “Utility” is an extended 500 mm model with two front seats and a cargo platform, and the VAZ-2131 is an extended five-door station wagon.
Due to the huge number of modifications, it is difficult to talk about a specific group of the most popular spare parts. However, it should be noted that over the years there has been constant interest in the details of the classic basic version of the Niva.
Replacing the alternator belt with an injector on a VAZ 21214 Niva
Alternator belt, selection, check, tension.
Alternator belt, selection, check, tension.
Message by [email protected] » Mar 25, 2013, 10:41 pm
At the moment, I tightened the belt to the limit, as recommended by the guys from https://www.niva4x4.ru/viewtopic.php?t=5. &start=825. The conclusion is simple, again the belt is to blame for everything. Only now has a more cheerful failure arrived. I ran over some shit and the bracket on which the generator is mounted broke. After the greatest stretch to the point of breakdown, the tension increased again to 14.2-14.3, sags to 13.9-13-6 for all users. Now I’ll change the bracket, tighten it even tighter and see what happens.
doc Brown Fortunately, RR is not guilty
Re: On-board voltage.
Post by trumen » Mar 25, 2013, 11:10 pm
Re: On-board voltage.
Message by [email protected] » Mar 25, 2013, 11:18 pm
Re: On-board voltage.
Post by trumen » Mar 26, 2013, 00:19
Re: On-board voltage.
Message by [email protected] » Mar 26, 2013, 09:07
Re: On-board voltage.
Post by Stranger21 » Mar 26, 2013 11:16 am
Even according to the regulations, you shouldn’t pull the belt. It's better to buy the newest one. It’s enough - 1 or 2 slips - and then don’t pull it anymore - there’s no point - but the bearings die quickly. and it would be good on the gene. otherwise everywhere (
I guess you have a very powerful generator? and a regular belt? – this is complete nonsense, you will need to change the belt any month. For example, massive generators on foreign cars have two belts. In your case, I would recommend switching to a serpentine belt.
Re: On-board voltage.
Post by hohol007 » Mar 26, 2013, 11:23 am
Re: On-board voltage.
Post by Anton » March 26, 2013, 11:33
Re: On-board voltage.
Post by hohol007 » Mar 26, 2013, 11:36 am
Re: On-board voltage.
Post by Anton » March 26, 2013, 11:40
Re: On-board voltage.
Posted by [email protected] » Mar 26, 2013 12:56 pm
Stranger21 Got it right. Gena is the most powerful. And the belt is ordinary, toothed. At the moment I have been to three stores, only one knows what a poly wedge is, but for some reason the merchant was unable to pick up a belt for me. And I also dulled a couple, either the Shniv one (but it’s long), or the ordinary traditional one (but their poly-wedge ones didn’t have those)
Antokha I couldn’t take the gene upstairs, my power steering is in the way ((Judging by the length, you have a Shniv one?
Based on the appearance of the belt, how can you tell if it’s a V-belt or an ordinary one? And it was a long time ago that I didn’t take it. An acquaintance on the way to the store stopped by and bought it, he said that it was incredibly good and that it wasn’t cheap.
Re: On-board voltage.
Post by Anton » March 26, 2013, 13:40
On the contrary, I have a power pump at the bottom and a generator at the top. The belt is not made by Shniv, I don’t even understand what kind of machine it is for, I just selected it according to the length. V-belt Poly V-belt.
Added after 2 minutes 9 seconds: [email protected]
Listen, don’t believe that you don’t have stores for foreign cars in your regional town. You just need to come to them and say, give me a V-belt of this or that length, that width, that’s all.
Re: Alternator belt, selection, check, tension.
Post by tester12 » Mar 26, 2013, 4:00 pm
Re: Alternator belt, selection, check, tension.
Post by Stranger21 » Mar 27, 2013 11:52 am
If someone works, 100A gene on a 10mm V-belt - a flag in his hands. firstly, what is shown in the photo above is gene transfer, and as you can see from the photo, the arm around the pulley is COMPLETELY DIFFERENT. not than in the standard execution, below the installed genes.
so RAVE - you are here as much as you want, and pull the belts even until the shit out of you, but a POWERFUL generator in a shaky place, with a standard girth arm, will never work normally, just load it once and the belt will turn. in me at 05 - 80A gene. in standard execution - there is nothing good about it - I can already knit a ladder with belts. but I already killed the bearings in it once - in the pump too - replace it with scrap.
I have seen 2-belt designs in many places. and it was not out of the blue that foreigners came up with this idea.
polyclinic - solves all problems. although in the standard place, the girth shoulder is still stupid, but the contact area increases due to the width - which gives the effect.
transfer of Alya Shniva genes + polyclinic is the best thing that can be created - if you DO something!
but no, it’s a 55A gene, a regular contitech belt, without over-tightening, a good RR, no 100-watt light bulbs - and everything is great!
Source: www.niva-club.net
Power steering belt for VAZ 21214
Content:
Now we will talk about the power steering belt of the VAZ 21214. But before we start, we should remember what a power steering (power steering) is, how to care for it and whether it is absolutely necessary.
Story
It’s amazing, but for more than 50 years of serial existence of the hydraulic booster, it has not undergone significant changes. But along with it, electric power steering was created.
There was no need to install a power steering servo for the first cars, because low speeds did not achieve good maneuverability. And then there was no need to talk about comfort. There was only one way to make steering easier: increasing the diameter of the steering wheel.
And it was only towards the end of the 30s that cars began to be equipped with the first control amplifiers. These were pneumatic installations that were powered by a compressor. But after a short period of time, the first hydraulic boosters arose, which were distinguished by the accuracy of their operation and silence. It was precisely this amplifier model that the designers fell for. And in 1951, the Chrysler Crown Imperial appeared, which was equipped with a Hydraguide hydraulic booster.
By and large, power steering is a mechanism whose main element is the pump. The operation of the pump is ensured by a belt that comes from the crankshaft.
With the help of a distributor, the gain is monitored, which is transmitted to the steering wheel, and turns the steered wheels in a strictly dosed manner.
Advantages and disadvantages
+ it makes the work of your hands easier, especially when parking;
+ weakening of shocks from road unevenness transmitted to the steering wheel
– lack and absence of reactive effort. The point is that the hydraulic booster device can greatly help the driver, reducing that amount of returning force that helps “feel the car.” Therefore, designers need to find a middle ground: create a steering wheel that is not too tight and get good information content from the steering wheel.
Power steering care
Specifically, violation of operating criteria leads to failure of the power steering. Therefore, you should keep the following in mind:
- Check the oil level from time to time.
- Inspect the system for tightness.
- Inspect and adjust, as necessary, drive belt tension.
- Avoid holding the steering wheel in the last position for more than 5 seconds, because this may cause the oil to overheat.
Power steering belt VAZ 21214
Although the power steering belt is small, it is an important part of the car. Thanks to it, the power steering pump is driven from the crankshaft.
Despite the fact that there are several types of belts, there are two main ones: V-belt and rivulet.
The condition of the belt must be constantly monitored, and when undergoing maintenance, it must be diagnosed. Depending on the manufacturer, power steering belts should be changed every 50-60 thousand km. The replacement can be created independently or in a car repair shop. If you decide to make the replacement without the help of others, then you need to keep in mind that the VAZ 21214 power steering belt is located behind the alternator belt, so you need to remove two belts before replacing.
At the time of writing, the belt can be purchased for 125 -250 rubles, depending on the region.
Source: vaz-21214.ru
Nuances
When replacing a generator with a Niva 21213, 2121, 21214, a number of subtleties arise, and one of them is the location of the generator unit. It is located at the bottom of the engine compartment.
Actually, this is why problems arise with the operation of the structure: while driving, various contaminants get on the generator, and coolant drips. If you don’t want to constantly change the generator unit, it is recommended to move it upstairs.
To ensure that no problems arise during the operation of the car, it is important to monitor the condition of the car. First of all, it is recommended to regularly inspect the generator.
So, when the “battery” light blinks on the dashboard, if suspicious noises or creaking sounds occur, you should be wary and think that the generator is not working correctly.
Timely inspection will help to avoid unpleasant situations in the form of breakdowns of the constituent elements of the generator, and as a result, failure of entire electrical systems.
Read news about the new Niva
Recommend which alternator belt is better for a Chevy Niva
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From time to time it seems to me that people are falling from the moon! There are WORLDWIDE manufacturers of belts. Which, using Russian buckets, create products whose quality is many times better than ours. Contitech, Dayco, Gates
Z.Y. Balakovo does not enter them! It costs twice as much, but there are still individuals who buy THIS.
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Source: www.nn.ru
Rollers
Drive belt tension roller and parasitic roller. Here, perhaps, only one thing needs to be said: the cause of failure of drive belts in most cases is the rollers. As soon as the bearing or the plastic on the bearing begins to play, immediately after this the belt begins to “eat”. I didn’t see all kinds of rollers in the store: both blue and green ones))) I’ll just say that while GM controlled deliveries to the assembly line, rollers from the German company INA were installed on the engines. You can find a German video in stores and sellers, but be careful. The INA manufacturer's name must appear on both the bearing and the plastic part of the roller.
Source
Replacing the alternator belt VAZ 21214 injector
PS. At the moment I’m thinking of trying to install a 110-120A generator that comes with a VW Passat or other Germans. This was recommended to me by an electrician at an auto repair shop. He has crazy music and he thinks that a supply of current will not hurt. True, the new GENA from VW is not cheap: 280-340 euros. depending on the model. They are made by BOSCH. Maybe I'll find a used one.
Welcome, friends, to the DIY car repair website. Owners of VAZ cars often encounter a situation where, when starting the engine, the whistling of the alternator belt is heard.
In such a situation, most newcomers see only one way out - replacing a seemingly worn-out element. In reality, you shouldn't make ill-considered decisions.
Sweetness can be caused by a number of circumstances that can be removed with your own hands and at minimal cost.
Individuals and probable causes of alternator belt whistling
In order to “cure” the problem, you must correctly understand the intricacies of the generator’s operation and the possible causes of the malfunction. Also read the article on how to check the diode bridge of a generator.
The main purpose of the generator is to power the vehicle's electrical equipment. But how is constant rotation of the rotor ensured?
There are special pulleys on the engine crankshaft and the generator shaft on which the belt is tensioned. After starting the engine, the crankshaft begins to rotate, driving the generator rotor.
The occurrence of a squeak is due to excessive friction of the belt on the generator pulley (crankshaft) or ordinary slipping.
With all this, in practice, the reasons for squeaking and whistling may be the following:
- Excessive belt wear. From time to time even additional tension does not help.
- Various liquids (antifreeze, oil, etc.) get on the generator pulley (crankshaft) or specifically the belt.
- Low belt property.
- Bearing wear in the generator.
This malfunction most often manifests itself with excessive weights. The bearing may whistle or rattle. In such a situation, only replacement with your own hands or at a service station can help out.
Alternator belt tightening sequence
Using a “17” wrench, slightly unscrew the upper fastening nut connecting the generator to the bracket.
Loosen the fastening nut at the bottom (just unscrew it a few turns).
If you need to loosen the belt, grab the generator and pull it towards you (if you need to tighten the belt, pull it away from you). After that you need to tighten the nuts and check the operation of the generator.
Before starting the engine, turn on several main consumers, for example, the stove, high beams and heating. If the whistle disappears and the charging level remains at the usual level, then the work can be considered successful.
With all this, remember that overtightening is also unacceptable (this can lead to excessive wear on the pulleys and belt).
If a replacement is needed, then the sequence of actions is similar. Loosen until the belt is removed from the pulleys. Don't forget to read the article about replacing the timing belt.
There are situations when the alternator belt whistles at times, for example, when the temperature drops or the humidity increases outside.
In this case, you can use special additives (sold in regular cans). The implementation method is very simple.
You need to spray the mixture on the inside of the belt and pulleys. The cost of such products is from 500 to 1500 rubles.
If the alternator belt on your car squeaks, then you should not immediately rush to the service station and make expensive repairs.
Almost always the problem is solved much easier and in a couple of minutes. And now you understand how this is done. Fortunes on the roads and, of course, without breakdowns.
Adjusting the tension and replacing the cooling water pump drive belt Niva 2121, VAZ 2131, Lada 4×4 We check the belt tension by its deflection between the pulleys of the VAZ 2121 units. With normal belt tension, its deflection under a force of 98N (10 kgf) should be 1015 mm. between the pump pulleys and the generator. or 1217 mm between the pump and crankshaft pulleys. We adjust the belt tension by moving the generator (with its fastening nuts loosened): from the motor to increase the tension or to the engine to decrease the tension. To replace the Niva 2121 belt, loosen the nut securing the generator to the tension bar. 17mm head on a carburetor engine. or a 13 head on an injection engine. We move the generator towards the cylinder block to loosen the tension of the Niva 2131 belt.
We move the generator, acting on it with a screwdriver as a lever in the slot of the tension bar Niva 2131: on an injection engine. On engine 21214, remove the crankshaft position sensor (see Removing the crankshaft position sensor). We remove the VAZ 2131 belt. On a carburetor engine, it has to be removed through the gap between the radiator and the casing. Install the belt in reverse order. Turn the crankshaft clockwise two turns and check the belt tension. Excessive belt tension causes excessive overloads on the bearings of the generator and pump of the Niva 2121. The unique generator belt on the VAZ 2121 can serve the driver for about 100 thousand kilometers on Russian roads, such messages came from almost all the owners of the people's favorite.
But it’s not always possible to find a unique alternator belt on the auto market, the whole problem is that dealers tend to prick naive customers and the service life of the basement belt can be reduced by 2-3 times. Now we will tell you how to change the alternator belt on a Niva with your own hands in a garage. When you already have the new alternator belt in your hands, then you need to prepare an open-end wrench for 17 and a comfortable space for repairs. As people say, I'll leave this video here. Video. Do-it-yourself replacement of the generator and drive belt Dear users of our website, I recommend that you read the article on the topic with your own hands.
This {instruction} is suitable for both new and experienced drivers of the VAZ 2121 car. Replacing the alternator belt on a Niva 1. The image shows how to correctly loosen the alternator belt tensioner nut. 2. When the nut is slightly loosened, it is necessary to move the car’s generator to the side in order to have good access to the belt. The arrow in which direction the generator needs to be moved is shown in the photo. 3. Remove the belt from the pump pulley; look at the image for more details. 4. The alternator belt has been completely removed, now you can begin installing the new one. The cost of the newest belt is about 100 rubles. We carry out the installation in reverse order, also do not forget about tensioning the alternator belt; you can watch the video above about this operation.
Replacing the NIVA alternator belt. Alternator belt after 25 km. on NIVA 21214
The alternator belt on a Niva VAZ 21214 with power steering is changed after removing the belt from the power steering...
Source: l2rv.ru
Generator replacement
To repair or replace the generator, the car owner will have to remove the unit completely from the car or turn to professionals for work. If you still want to carry out the replacement yourself, then first you will need to prepare all the necessary tools:
The procedure consists of the following sequence of actions:
The structure is assembled in the reverse order; the entire procedure will take about two hours if you have all the necessary tools.
Also interesting: Niva Chevrolet steering tips
Additionally, it is worth noting that when everything is assembled, you will need to adjust the position of the generator using the tensioner. To do this, you need to unscrew the tensioner nut and tighten or loosen the belt, while observing the battery charge.
If the indicator returns to normal, then the selected tension is sufficient. There is no need to tighten the structure, as the generator bearing may fail. If the tension is insufficient, the generator will work intermittently, and this can also lead to breakdown.
Chevrolet Niva alternator belt: how to check and change the auxiliary drive belt
The accessory drive belt is most commonly known as the alternator belt. With all this, it is important to realize that this belt, in addition to the car’s generator itself, also drives the power steering, air conditioning, etc. It goes without saying that if problems arise with the drive belt, malfunctions in the operation of the suspended units will also inevitably appear.
Next, we will look at when to change the Chevrolet Niva alternator belt, what signs indicate the need for replacement, as well as how to replace the Chevrolet Niva alternator belt with your own hands.
About the belt
All belts are different; the Niva 2121 uses a V-belt, while more modern Nivas such as Urban and Chevrolet use a poly-V-belt. The poly V-belt has a larger contact patch and is more resistant to wear.
The length of the belt depends on the number of attachments; if the car has air conditioning or power steering, the belt will be significantly longer than in a Niva without additional options.
Alternator belt: when you need to replace the Chevrolet Niva belt
First of all, according to the regulations for the Chevrolet Niva, checking the condition of the auxiliary drive belt should be carried out every 15 thousand kilometers. In other words, it is necessary to inspect the belt at any maintenance, in parallel with changing filters, engine oil, etc.
As for replacement, in practice, in terms of mileage, it is necessary to replace any 50-60 thousand km; in terms of time, it is better to change the belt within any 2-3 years. But it should be taken into account that this data is vital for unique belts or analogues of the highest quality.
- Go ahead. It should also be taken into account that it may be necessary to pay attention to the drive belt of auxiliary units not only as part of a scheduled check, but even in this case if problems arise with the belt.
Typically, the main signs are considered to be:
- the alternator belt whistles;
- there are tasks with charging the battery;
- the force on the steering wheel has increased, the power steering is not working correctly;
- extraneous noise occurred during the operation of the internal combustion engine;
- the car's air conditioning does not work properly;
If such symptoms occur in relation to the Niva, also during a scheduled check, the Niva Chevrolet belt must be visually inspected and its tension must also be checked. The fact is that this rubber product is subject to deformation, destruction and aging. Naturally, during use, the belt can stretch, delaminate, burst, etc. As a result, a break may occur.
Also, the condition of even a new belt can deteriorate significantly in this case if oil, fuel, other lubricants and industrial waters, chemical reagents, acids and the like get on its surface. Such waters quickly corrode the rubber and destroy the belt itself, which also does not add strength to it. In any case, the belt must be carefully inspected.
In a similar situation, you first need to check the tension and tighten the Chevrolet Niva belt. If tightening the problem cannot be solved, the only option left is to replace the Chevrolet Niva alternator belt.
Checking the alternator belt, tightening and replacing the Niva Chevrolet belt
First of all, to check the condition of the Chevrolet Niva belt, you should remove the engine screen cover (attached to 4 studs). To check the belt tension, press your finger on the belt in the area between the generator pulley and the pump (cooling water pump).
If you press with a force of about 7.5-8 kgf, normally the belt should bend by 11-13 mm. By the way, both sagging and tightening of the belt are not allowed. The fact is that a very tight generator belt puts additional load on the bearings of the generator itself; it also wears out faster, stretches and can break.
- To adjust the tension of the generator belt, remove the rubber sleeves through which air is supplied to the throttle;
- Then, using the “13” head, you need to loosen the 3 nuts that secure the tension roller bracket;
- Next, using a key or head 13, you need to rotate the adjusting bolt clockwise. This will allow you to tighten the belt;
- Then it remains to tighten the nuts securing the tension roller bracket. After completing the adjustment, turn the crankshaft 2 turns. Afterwards you will need to check the belt tension again by hand.
Now let's move on to replacing the alternator belt. Replacing the Chevrolet Niva belt, and specifically the drive belt of auxiliary units, is necessary if cracks, breaks, or delamination are detected. Also, for the version with air conditioning, remove the air conditioning compressor drive belt (Chevrolet Niva air conditioning belt).
Next, loosen the nuts securing the tension roller bracket, and then rotate the adjusting bolt counterclockwise. This rotation will loosen the belt tension. Then the belt is removed from the tension roller, as well as from the other pulleys.
Let's dwell on this point again. Normally, the belt deflection should be 11-13 mm. with a force of 7.5-8 kgf. The belt tension itself is carried out by moving the tension roller and rotating the tensioner bolt, provided that the tensioner bracket fastening nuts are loosened. Please note that after completing the adjustment, the crankshaft should be turned a couple of turns and the belt tension checked again. It would seem that everything is simple, but there is one aspect.
It goes without saying that it is difficult to check the correct belt tension by hand. To get the clearest data, you can use one method. To check, you need an electric steelyard, a block, and also a regular ruler.
The check is carried out like this:
- First, the air supply socket is removed;
- a block rests against the belt;
- an electric steelyard is attached to the other end of the bar;
- a ruler is staring at the block;
- the “zero” on the ruler is aligned with the edge of the air socket;
Next, you need to pull the steelyard by hand until the reading is 7.6 kg. The block itself will press on the belt, the belt will bend, and the ruler with the block will move down. This allows you to see along the edge of the air socket how much the generator belt bends.
If the deflection is more than 12mm, then the belt should be tightened, if less, you need to loosen the generator belt. It is important to obtain a deflection of about 12 mm, then rotate the crankshaft pulley and check the tension again. If everything is in order, the adjustment can be considered complete. Finally, tighten the adjusting bar nuts. Next, you need to start the engine, let the engine run for a few minutes, and evaluate the operation of the auxiliary drive.
One way or another, during a test run of the engine, the new alternator belt should not make any external sounds (whistle, creaking, grinding). Also, equipment bearings should not make noise. If suspicious noises occur, you should turn off the engine and perform additional checks. Perhaps some element is faulty. From time to time it happens that after replacing the drive belt for auxiliary units, the generator, power steering pump, etc. begin to make noise.
If everything was in order before replacing the belt, you can imagine that the belt was still too tight, and mistakes were made when adjusting it. In a similar situation, you should carry out all the checks yourself or seek help from experienced specialists.
Let's sum it up
Taking into account the above information, it becomes clear that the alternator belt on the Niva Chevrolet needs to be changed more often than almost all car owners think. It is also important to look at the general condition of the belt, inspect it for wear, cracking, etc. At the same time, you need to evaluate its tension and make adjustments if necessary.
As a result, you can count on a fairly long service life of the generator belt, as well as reliable and measured operation of auxiliary equipment (provided there are no other breakdowns, liquids getting on the belt, etc.).
Source: krutimotor.ru
Niva Chevrolet
This car is significantly different from the classic Niva, therefore. and its components are completely different. In the Chevy Niva, the air conditioning compressor is driven by a separate belt. The alternator belt rotates the power steering, alternator and pump. Due to the large amount of equipment, the belt length is quite long.
| Model | Equipment | Belt type | Belt size, (mm) | Belt number | vendor code |
| Chevrolet | Pump, Generator, Power Steering | Poly-Vline | 1888 | 5PK1888 | 2123-1041020-30 |
Niva Chevrolet air conditioner belt dimensions
Source
