How to check the speedometer on a gazelle. Where to begin?
After some time, the car owner may discover that the speedometer on the gazelle does not work. This means an inevitable inspection, starting with the sheath cable. It is with this part of the car that problems arise more often than with others. The first thing to inspect is the union nuts (fastening the gearbox and the cable sheath built into the mechanical speedometer), since due to constant vibration vibrations they could become unscrewed. Shifted nuts can be seen by frequent jumping of the cable, as a result of which torque will not be supplied. The cable break can then be checked directly in the sheath. A phenomenon such as cycling may well cause the speedometer to fail.
After the reasons have been found and eliminated, it is necessary to adjust the mileage; if with a mechanical speedometer this can be done independently, then in the case of an electronic mechanism you should contact specialists who will correctly adjust the mileage without causing harm to the car and all electronics.
The malfunction in most cases consists of wide fluctuations (strong deviations) of the speed indicator needle, which becomes a reason for the owner/driver of the gazelle to doubt the speed readings of the device. The cause of the problem may well be missing lubrication on the shell (internal). It is because of this that the cable rotates incorrectly (unevenly), as a result of which it begins to slow down. The situation is similar with the loosened nuts with which the shell is attached to the gazelle. It doesn’t matter what the reason was for removing and reinstalling the cable, if the owner performed this procedure, exceeding the permissible bend (radius more than 15 cm), the rotation of the cable will become difficult, and the indicator arrow will begin to fluctuate, preventing an accurate determination of the speed of the vehicle.
Differences between the Volga and GAZelle checkpoints
Gorky Auto and GAZelle vehicles use the same transmission design and identical components, including a unified range of gearboxes. Read about the most common GAZ gearboxes, their design, characteristics, features and maintenance nuances in this material.
A general look at the transmission of Volga and GAZelle cars. GAZ passenger cars and light-duty trucks: Volga, GAZelle, Sobol have the same transmission design and unified in many components.
Currently, two types of cars are produced:
* Rear-wheel drive cars with a 4x2 wheel arrangement - Volga, GAZelle, Sobol; * All-wheel drive vehicles with a 4x4 wheel arrangement - the new GAZelle model range, models: 27057, 32217, 322174, 33027, 330273, as well as Sobol, models: 22177, 221717, 23107, 27527.
The transmission of rear-wheel drive cars is traditional, it includes a dry friction single-plate clutch, 4 or 5-speed, depending on the model and year of manufacture of the car, a manually controlled gearbox, a composite or solid driveshaft in a number of new GAZelle vehicles and a drive axle of a rigid banjo-type structure, with a supporting beam, which houses the main gear, differential and axle shafts.
The transmission of GAZ 4x4 vehicles is complemented by a transfer gearbox, which, unlike a number of other vehicles, is located separately from the main gearbox - the transfer case, is installed almost in the center of the frame, and torque is transmitted to it from the gearbox by a separate driveshaft. Two cardan shafts come from the transfer case - to the front and rear drive axles. Control of the transfer case and activation of front-wheel drive is manual, using levers located in the cabin.
The key role in the transmission is played by the gearbox, which should be discussed in more detail.
Types, differences and applicability of GAZ gearboxes
On cars: Volga, GAZelle, Sobol, a unified model range of gearboxes is used, which are built on a common component base, therefore they have the following common features:
GAZ passenger and commercial gearboxes Common crankcase for all gearboxes; Identical shafts and most gears, as well as all other parts, including bearings, synchronizers, seals and others; Uniform mounting dimensions, with the exception of gearbox models for diesel engines. The differences between the boxes are minor; they are aimed at harmonizing different types of power units and transmissions. The boxes differ in the following details:
Length of primary shafts; The height of the housing for the gear shift lever output; The number of teeth of the input shaft gear; The number of teeth of the drive gear of the intermediate shaft of the gear block; The number of first gear teeth on the secondary shaft; The number of teeth of the speedometer drive gear. Thus, using only a small number of different parts, you can get a larger number of gearbox models to solve a wide range of problems:
* 2217-1700010, 3302-1700010 - a large range of gearbox modifications for all GAZelle vehicles, including those for ZMZ, UMZ and Chrysler engines, it uses a 25-tooth input shaft gear, a 36-tooth intermediate shaft gear and 45 -1st gear tooth gear, the speedometer drive is built on a 7-tooth drive and 17-tooth driven gears. The housing for the lever handle output is increased in height.
* 27527-1700010, 33027-1700010 for 4x4 vehicles - characterized by the presence of a window in the crankcase for the power take-off shaft, and also on its crankcase there are bosses for mounting a bracket holding the transfer case levers.
* 330242-1700010 - gearbox for trucks with diesel power units, there are modifications for GAZ-5602 engines, Steyr and Cummins ISF engine license. Its main difference is the input shaft increased in length by 48 mm and, accordingly, its bearing cover.
* 31029-1700010 - for Volga passenger cars, it uses a 26-tooth input shaft gear, a 35-tooth intermediate shaft gear and a 43-tooth first-speed gear, the speedometer drive includes a 6-tooth drive and 19-tooth driven gears. The gear shift lever housing is low.
* 3110-1700010 - a variant of the previous box for Volga cars equipped with an electronic instrument panel. The main difference is the installation of a speedometer sensor in the gearbox (on previous models, the speedometer drive is cable), while the speedometer drive gear is 10-tooth, and the driven gear is 20-tooth.
* 31104-1700010 - gearbox option for Volga cars with a diesel power unit, the main difference is in the speedometer drive; it uses a 6-tooth drive and 18-tooth driven gears.
* 2217-1700010 - gearbox for Sobol cars, differs from gearboxes for GAZelles only in the speedometer drive; it is built on a 7-tooth drive and 15-tooth driven gears.
All replaceable parts have special markings - see photo*
Design and design features of the Volga and GAZelle gearboxes GAZ passenger and commercial gearboxes Structurally, GAZ 5-speed gearboxes have a simple design. They are based on a lightweight split crankcase, divided in a vertical plane, assembled from the front part, which is often simply called the crankcase, and the shank. The crankcases are assembled with bolts through a gasket; to ensure accurate installation of the shafts, the crankcase halves are assembled through mounting sleeves.
There are three shafts in the crankcase, they lie in beds, the ends are secured with radial type bearings - primary, intermediate, also called gear block and secondary. At the top of the box there is a gear selection mechanism; the lever is placed in a separate housing, which is mounted on four bolts on the shank. It is interesting to note that the lever is equipped with a damper, which prevents shaking and rattling at high speeds.
The input shaft in this box is made quite long, in the front part there are splines cut for connection to the clutch driven disc, and in the rear part there is a gear. The intermediate shaft consists of the shaft itself and gears pressed onto it, with the exception of the 1st gear gear - its teeth are made directly on the shaft. All gearbox gears are helical.
The most complex is the secondary shaft; the gears on it are mounted through needle bearings; between the gears there are three inertial synchronizers, moved by the forks of the gear selection mechanism. The speedometer drive gear is also located on the same shaft. The secondary shaft exits through a shank and is splined to connect to the sliding yoke of the propeller shaft. The shaft in the shank is placed in a steel-babbit sleeve and sealed with cuffs.
The crankcase has two fillers - on the top on the sides and one drain - a plug is installed in the lower part, and a magnet is provided in the drain plug. The shank also contains a fitting for connecting the cable to the speedometer or installing a speedometer sensor. A breather is installed in the upper part of the front crankcase to relieve excess pressure.
In general, the Volga and GAZelle gearboxes have a completely traditional design, which is quite simple and reliable.
Maintenance of GAZ gearboxes Maintenance of the gearbox of GAZ cars comes down to the following work:
Changing transmission oil at intervals of 3-5 thousand km, depending on the operating conditions of the vehicle; Inspect the box for oil leaks; Checking the connection of the crankcase halves; Checking the reliability of installation of the box and its individual parts. Particular attention should be paid to changing the oil. In the type of boxes under consideration, transmission oil with a viscosity of SAE 75W-90 or 75W-140 is poured, depending on climatic conditions, in an amount of 2 liters. The oil is drained immediately after stopping the engine; if the oil is excessively contaminated, it is recommended to additionally rinse the box with kerosene or gasoline.
During maintenance, the general condition of the gearbox is also checked and, if faults are identified, repairs are carried out. It should be remembered that the primary and intermediate shafts of the boxes can only be replaced as an assembly, and the secondary shaft can be repaired by replacing individual gears or bearings. Any damage to the crankcase requires its complete replacement.
With regular maintenance, the use of recommended oils and high-quality spare parts, all car gearboxes: Volga, GAZelle, Sobol, will reliably perform their functions for many years.
Source
Why can the speedometer lie?
In the case of this device, it is easy to understand its greater inaccuracy. First of all, this reduces the risk of the driver breaking the speed limit and receiving a fine. In the background is the fact that with underestimated speed readings, car owners would sue car manufacturers and prove that accidents and fines are the fault of the meter’s malfunction.
The whole problem is that it is much more difficult for it to show accurate data than the rest of the car's measuring instruments. This depends on the fact that driving speed is most often measured by the speed of rotation of the wheels. In turn, this speed is affected by the size of the wheel, and this is a variable figure.
Now they produce devices that have an inaccuracy of 10%, but the speed must be 200 km/h. This is usually a variable parameter, that is, when driving at a speed of 110 km/h, the deviation will be 5-10 km/h, and if you drive 60 km/h or less, then the inaccuracy is quite insignificant.
Gearbox and speedometer
Guys, tell me, I can’t figure it out. I bought a Gas 3102 406 engineer. The speedometer is lying, that is, according to the GPS, let’s say 80, but on the tidy it shows 60. There is an assumption that it’s a Gazelle gearbox. Since at a real speed of 100 km/h the tachometer shows 3000. So if this is so, how bad is it that the Gazelle gearbox costs? And is it possible to do something with the speedometer without disassembling or changing the gearbox?
Comments 44
There are 37 comments, but there is only one useful one and it is not completely, if the speedometer is lying on the lower side, accordingly the sensor needs a higher value, and if it already costs 6, then you need to look for 10. By the way, falling into legends and myths, there are actually no sensors in general there were 3, and this third one was plowed from miles at 12imp/rev, but fortunately this is extremely rare
And look at the pulse sensor, since on the 406 motor the speed sensor is electronic and there are 2 types: 6 and 10 pulse
See speedometer drive gear: Volga, 2 types 6 and 10 input, GAZelle 7 input naturally driven speedometer gear will be different depending on the drive
Is this the one that is inserted into the box with the sensor?
yes, there is a speed sensor that is screwed onto the speedometer drive gear housing, there are 2 types of 6 and 10 pulses
And which one should I use then?
depending on which gear, if 6 is the input then 6 pulses, if 10 is the input then 10
So you need to count the teeth?
number of gear engagements
It’s a good idea to disassemble the box and look at the number of gear engagements on the secondary shaft
So you need to count the teeth?
Accordingly, the number of teeth of the driven gear of the speedometer drive and the speed sensor with the corresponding number of pulses must correspond to the number of gear engagements
In general, as I understand it, I need to install a 10 pulse sensor and the problem will go away?
does it cost 6 pulse? if gear 10 is the lead-in gear then 10 is the pulse sensor
In general, as I understand it, I need to install a 10 pulse sensor and the problem will go away?
there simply the number of gear engagements must correspond to the number of pulses
Well, right now it’s 6 pulse and doesn’t show correctly
then set it to 10 and see what it shows
Well, in theory, 10 pulse should show higher speed?
It turns out that the number of visits does not correspond to the number of pulses, install a 10 pulse sensor and look at the speedometer readings, it would be good to check with a car driving nearby to compare the speedometer readings
Both the Volgov and Gazelle gearboxes accelerate normally, but the Gazelle gearbox is faster, and if you want the car to accelerate normally, then climb into the bridge and change the G.P.
What should I do with the speedometer so that it shows correctly? If I leave this box
Both the Volgov and Gazelle gearboxes accelerate normally, but the Gazelle gearbox is faster, and if you want the car to accelerate normally, then climb into the bridge and change the G.P.
Once I was selling a box from 3110 5-mortar, a man came in a gazelle and said that it seemed like the opposite, the Volgov box would be faster than the Gazelle box, sorry for interfering in the conversation)
the Volgovskaya has a higher maximum speed, the Gazelle will have a higher speed
may the author forgive me, but maybe someone can tell me) The speedometer is also lying, downward, but the ZMZ 24d and 4-mortar are original. According to the GPS (I live in the outback) I was driving 30, according to the speedometer 55, in fact I received a fine for 74 km/h
I’ll give you a hint) you need to look at the speedometer, you have it with a mechanical drive, so the operating principle of the speedometer is implemented by converting the rotation of the cable into an inductive current, which makes the needle twitch. You need to look at the arrow drive, for which you remove the lower part with the bushing for the cable and look, I think, for turning the slider (by analogy with the impeller on a pump)
Damn, it’s not him) I just already tried to change the speedometer, nothing changed, they put the old one on the main unit, it shows everything correctly)
Maybe then the cable itself is slipping somewhere? Have you tried replacing the bushing on the box with a batin?
no) I will change the box soon) Otherwise the 4th crashes, and on the 3rd everything is noisy, knocking in the box))
Well, as soon as you change it, if the glitch goes away, then my assumption was correct)))
I had a Gazelle after a 4-mortar Volgov, it swore, it wouldn’t accelerate and the gears were short. It costs 5 Volgovskaya, it’s normal, but after 4 mortars it was difficult to get used to shorter gears. Gazelevskaya is terrible, exchange (barter) for Volgovskaya. Sometimes I remember about acceleration in a 4-speed gearbox and think about installing it
