How to stud tires - features and stages of work, regulatory framework

Tire studding is a standard procedure aimed at improving the performance of winter tires for safer driving in cold weather.

Below we will consider what kind of process this is, and what goals the car owner pursues, and we will talk about the pros and cons of the procedure. We will separately consider which tires can be studded, and in which cases it is better to abandon this procedure.

For convenience, we will present the process of preparing and installing spikes, analyze step-by-step instructions for action, discuss technologies and their differences, stages of work and much more.

What is tire studding and why is it needed?

Tire studding is an activity aimed at installing studs in a winter tire in the factory holes or without them. In the latter case, an operation is performed to create recesses using special equipment.

Goals:

• ensuring controllability in winter;
• improving the quality of grip when traveling on icy roads;
• savings on tires.

In some cases, studding improves the characteristics of the rubber, but this does not always happen. In addition, the installation of aluminum inserts is not always permitted by law. We will dwell on this issue further below.

Should I re-stud?

Secondary restoration of studded rubber is the installation of new studs in the sockets from which the previous stud was previously removed. This procedure has both advantages and disadvantages.

Thanks to re-studding, it is possible to restore old tires for a while, but in this situation it will be difficult to guarantee the reliability and safety of such wheels. Firstly, it is impossible to extend the life of a tire indefinitely. Over time, the tread wears off and the wheel loses traction with the road surface.

Secondly, during long-term use, the holes where the spikes are inserted wear out. If the tire has cracks or other damage, re-studding cannot be done.

It is worth consulting with a good specialist about the advisability of a repeated procedure. He will inspect the condition of the wheels and help you decide how high quality the tires will be after tucking.

Is it possible to stud summer and all-season tires?

In practice, there are a number of restrictions regarding studding of winter tires.

Installation of spikes is permitted if the following conditions are met:

• the product has special holes for fastening metal elements;
• depth of the residual part of the tread - from 7 mm or more;
• the tire has high-quality recesses for installation;
• the all-season tire has an M+S projector;
• tires are installed on special equipment (seasonality does not matter).

Studring is prohibited:

• on all-season tires in the absence of the necessary grip characteristics for winter driving (there are exceptions);
• in the tread of friction tires due to the shallow depth and finely cut lamellas;
• on a summer tire: this is pointless and prohibited by law.

Before studding all-season or winter tires, determine the relevance and feasibility of the work, and then begin the process.

Advantages and disadvantages

Installing studs or re-studding tires is a special process that requires a careful approach, studying the pros and cons.

Positive points:

1. Improved handling.
2. High-quality grip on slippery road surfaces.
3. Reducing braking distance.
4. Elimination of skidding when entering turns.
5. Absence or reduction of slipping when starting to move.

Weak spots:

1. Increased noise, vibration, vibrations and problems with damping the latter.
2. Reduced smoothness of movement.
3. Accelerated tire wear due to frequent trips on asphalt roads.
4. Deterioration of comfort.
5. Gradual wear of the inserts with the need to replace them.
6. Need for additional balancing.

Video: What happened to the repair studs after 1800 km of run

There are also drivers who are dissatisfied with the procedure and have encountered poor-quality installation of studs or other problems. Such reviews are also important, because thanks to them you can find out in advance possible errors during installation in order to prevent them when repairing tires yourself.

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In winter, ice often forms on the roads and cars get into skids. To ensure good grip on the road surface, it is necessary to install winter studded tires. There are many options on the car market from different manufacturers. But finances do not always allow you to purchase new things. In such cases, instead of purchasing, you can experiment with studding on all-season tires yourself.

In what cases should you refuse studded tires?

In an effort to improve the car's handling, car owners often rush to install studs. But sometimes it is better to refuse such a procedure. In particular, experts do not recommend studding worn or damaged tires.

This is due to the deterioration of the tread characteristics, which are unable to hold the studs during sudden braking.

During normal operation, the main characteristic is the depth of the pattern, but in emergency situations, the condition of the tire matters. If you have been using tires for more than one season, it is better to avoid studding. The final decision is made by the technician at the service station after inspecting the tire.

The second situation when installing studs is not recommended is after purchasing tires with new, not yet “broken” holes. If you do not follow this recommendation, there is a high risk of tire damage or the appearance of microcracks that impair traction.

Spike device

When choosing an insert for studding, it is important to understand that it comes in different shapes and types, distinguishing the product by its design features.

By number of flanges:

1. Single flange. Structurally, there is one flange that fixes the tenon in one place. It is characterized by the greatest simplicity of design, low noise, but at high speeds they can jump out of the recess.
2. Double-flange. Outwardly they resemble a glass, so they are better fixed in the tire and are used in most cases.
3. Tri-flange.

The following types differ in form:

• round: universal option;
• cross-shaped: quickly grind down;
• diamond-shaped with six edges: resistant to abrasion, equipped with a special cushion to reduce noise when moving;
• oval: characterized by improved grip on icy surfaces;
• seven-sided: they look like a bucket, guarantee a quick start, suitable for sports cars;
• diamond: pentagonal, have a high price;
• tetrahedral: quickly erased, similar in characteristics to the round version;
• triangular: made in the shape of a triangle, quickly erased;
• trapezoidal: the spike is triangular in shape, and the top is trapezoidal, a universal option for different types of roads;
• three-beam: made in the shape of a star, there is a high risk of slipping when starting to move;
• faceted diamond: provide good grip in different conditions, equipped with a protective cushion.

Differences between repair and factory studs

Structurally, the studs installed in repair shops and at the factory have slight differences.

Let's highlight the main points:

1. Dimensions. The repair version has a height of 12 mm, and the factory version is 8 mm (sometimes up to 11 mm). The length of the product installed at the factory does not depend on the shape (section). When repair studding, the choice is made individually, taking into account the type and condition of the rubber.
2. Plastic sleeve. This element is present in repair studs and provides an improved seal in the old hole. Its task is to protect the hole from dirt and reagents from the road. As a result, the service life of the stud increases.
3. Material of casing and internal part. Since 2016, studded tires at the factory have been installed only with aluminum products. This is due to the weight requirements of the Technical Regulations of the Customs Union. Repair studding involves installing steel or aluminum studs.

What you need to know before performing work

Before you start studding, keep a few important points in mind.

Let's highlight the basic rules:

1. The procedure is relevant before the start of the winter season. It is important that the finished tires sit for two to three months before use.
2. An important point that affects the service life of rubber is the correct running-in. It is recommended to travel on roads at a speed of no more than 80-90 km/h for the first 400-500 km after studding.
3. When choosing the number of studs, you need to look at the radius of the tire. For example, for 13-inch tires you need 90-95 units, for 14-15-inch wheels - 100-110, and for 16-17-inch wheels - 150-165.
4. The price of a spike is in the range from 10 to 15 rubles. Some companies offer a flat rate for tuning, regardless of the number of additional elements. As a rule, the price is 600-650 rubles.

Understanding the above rules allows you to extend the life of a studded tire and increase the safety of its use.

Studring winter tires with your own hands

There are two methods for studding a winter tire; let’s briefly look at their features:

1. Installation using improvised tools using ordinary spikes. In practice, installation can be done using a screwdriver, pliers and a hammer, but there is no talk about the quality of the result obtained.
2. Installation of repair spikes using special equipment. Here, instead of a hammer, an air gun is used. Its action is aimed at moving the edges of the hole at the required angle. In addition, before performing work, the rubber is prepared, and the openings are cleaned of any contamination using compressed air. If this work is not done, there is a high probability of misalignment and rapid falling out of the aluminum insert.

To install studs, hire experienced specialists. In the absence of knowledge in this matter, it is difficult to count on good quality installation. Installation in a garage using artisanal methods leads to disastrous results.

How to do it using improvised tools?

Do-it-yourself tire studding can be done in various ways:

1. The manual method is time-consuming and complex. Its essence is to use a special key and a regular screwdriver, you will also need a hammer. The only advantage is that there is no need for a special tool that will need to be purchased or rented. But you will have to work hard with your hands.
2. The semi-automatic option is implemented through the use of a screwdriver and an attachment. The essence of this method is to push the spike inside the rubber with a screwdriver. Here the work will be done faster. The disadvantage of this method is the need to control the position of each element.
3. The automatic method is the most convenient and fastest, but it can only be implemented with special equipment - a pneumatic gun. But each spike will be securely and correctly fixed, therefore, the final result will be much better. The equipment costs a lot, you will have to look for the possibility of renting a compressor, pneumatic lines and the gun itself.

Preparing equipment and tools

To perform the work, tenoning equipment is required. With its help, products are inserted and fixed in special holes. The operating principle of the tool is based on pneumatic and electric power.

There are three types of stud devices:

• manual;
• semi-automatic;
• automatic.

Hand tools are in greatest demand due to their affordable price. It comes in two types - with a rod that drives a spike, or a pushing device.

The first option is more universal, because it can be used to drive different types of inserts.

Devices with a pusher are usually used for mounting single-roller rods. They are highly efficient and have a long service life.

Popular models of air guns include:

1. Sibik Psh-8 is a tire repair device with a working pressure of 7 bar and an air flow of 10 liters per minute. The product has relatively small dimensions: 26.5x26.5x6.5 cm. Weight - 1.87 kg. The body is made of light alloy structures with a protective coating and convenient operation. The diameter of the installed spikes is 8 mm, and the height is from 10 to 13 mm. The largest number of spikes used in the device feeder is 10.

2. K-130 Sivik is another air gun for studding winter tires. Made of metal, has a working pressure of 7 bar and an air flow of 10 liters per minute. The length, width and height are 23x22x17 cm respectively. The weight of the structure is 1.7 kg, and the warranty period is one year. As in the previous case, this model works with spikes with a height of 10 to 13 mm and a diameter of 8 mm.

3. Rotosystem 8 mm Scason is an Italian-made semi-automatic tenoning machine, powered by a voltage of 220 V. It has a length, width and height of 37x37x25 mm, respectively. The weight of the device is 4 kg, and the warranty is 1 year. The stud guns from this company are simple and easy to use.

4. There are plenty of other models on the market.

Device for installing repair spikes 12-8-2tr, 12-9-2tr

I would like to dwell separately on this device. It is intended for manual tenoning into old holes of TEKOM tenons of sizes 12-8-2TP and 12-9-2TP. It can be used both at service stations and in garage conditions.

Structurally, a pneumatic tool for studding tires consists of several elements.

Let's briefly look at their features:

1. All metal flask. It is easy to implement, so there is nothing to break.
2. The front part has a hole for loading spikes.
3. Tips, antennae (guides). With their help, the elements of the winter tire are moved apart and the metal product is fired.

The operating principle of an air gun is simple. Special jaws (antennae) push the edges of the seat and mount the stud without compromising the integrity of the tread. When using the tool, a pressure of 10 bar is used, so a compressor is required for operation.

Also, in some cases you will need a medium-sized rubber mallet; using a metal hammer is not recommended.

How to stud winter tires yourself

Before you start work, you need to decide on the type of spikes.

Useful tips

First of all, it is recommended to decide on the type of components. There are some tips for this:

• Car tire studs can be made of plastic, iron and aluminum.
• The more edges a component has, the better its properties.

Recommendations

There are general recommendations on how to stud winter tires yourself:

• It is recommended to carry out the work a month before the wheels are installed on the car.
• Do not immediately subject rubber to extreme tests. The first 500 kilometers after installation should be run-in.
• It is best to buy spikes as a set, this will help you save money.

The number of components that need to be installed on the rubber depends on the diameter:

• for an R13 tire you need from 95 to 100 pieces;
• R14 - 110-115;
• R15 - 120-125;
• R16c - 145-160.

Can I use a drill and an awl?

Sometimes a drill is used for secondary tenoning. But experts do not recommend using the services of service stations that use this technique. Service employees save money, but do not worry about the safety of clients. A drill cannot guarantee the safety of rubber or safe studding.

It is also not recommended to use an awl, because you can accidentally miscalculate the force and puncture the tire through.

If the manual method is chosen, it is necessary that all holes be identical to the tenon length of 9 mm, and the depth of the groove itself is 8-9 mm. If necessary, measurements should be taken using a caliper.

Drilling a winter tire must be done very carefully, because there is a high risk of drilling a hole through.

Difference between technologies

Car owners are often confused about technology and do not understand that studding tires with openings provided by the manufacturer is different from installing repair studs.

There are two features here:

1. To restore old wheels and studs, different types of studs are used. Points for installation on used products are already provided, so the repair spikes also have a larger base. A polymer sleeve is also provided here, which allows you to seal the product in the socket. In addition, the design parameters and characteristics of the studs are almost no different from the factory ones.

2. When repairing and installing into existing sockets, various types of equipment are used. In budget service stations, when performing work, a standard drill with drills of the required length is used. There, as a second tool, an air gun purchased on the secondary market and which does not perform its functions well can be used. As a result, when performing work, the hole is severely broken and there is a high risk of damage to the tire. As a result, grip on the road may deteriorate and the service life of the products themselves will decrease.

Stages of work

The work of introducing studs takes place in several steps, starting with creating or cleaning an existing recess, ending with inspection and balancing.

Check the tread condition

Before performing work, check the condition of the car tires.

To do this, take the following steps:

1. Use a caliper to measure the tread depth. As a last resort, use a regular ruler.
2. Check the result. For winter tires it should be at least four millimeters, and for summer tires - two millimeters.

If the measurement results in a shorter distance, the tire is too worn or worn unevenly, then it is not suitable for studding.

Signs of a well-made stud

When assessing the quality of work, it is necessary to pay attention to several aspects: the quality of the inserts, the remaining tread, the tool and the technology used.

Let's take a closer look at each of the elements:

1. Depth of the drawing. It is optimal for it to be smaller than the shortest repair spike (7 mm).
2. Spikes. The repair ship includes a casing, an insert and a special bushing. The flange diameter is 1.2 cm. For comparison, for factory products this parameter is 0.8 cm.
3. Tool used. It is important that during the work a pneumatic gun is used, operating under a pressure of 10 bar and requiring the use of a compressor.

In the future, the quality of work is determined by the service life of studded tires and the number of seasons before repair or replacement of rubber.

Tire studding tools

Many drivers have a question: “How to stud tires yourself?” First of all, you need to prepare tools and materials. Most of the work is done with an electric drill. You will also need a special attachment in the form of a drill of a suitable diameter, which will allow you to make holes on the tire.

To install the spikes you will need:

• hammer;
• pliers;
• metal plate;
• screwdriver;
• calipers;
• soap solution.

Installation can also be carried out using a pneumatic gun. It works due to a special compressor, which, under air pressure, drives the spike into the desired hole.

Other methods that can be used at home

If you have free time and certain knowledge, it is possible to install spikes at home.

Take the following steps:

1. Order spikes for installation. Alternatively, you can buy them on Ali Express in special bags of 100 pieces each.

2. Place the tire vertically.
3. Remove the empty clips from the old studs using duckbills and clean the tread of stones. The latter may affect further wheel balancing. You can use a screwdriver and compressed air to clean it.

4. Prepare a tube with an outer diameter of no more than 12 mm and an inner diameter of at least 9 mm.

5. Make sure that the hole depth is no less than that required for the tenon.
6. Lubricate the prepared openings with a soap solution.

7. Install the tenon into the hammer drill and insert them one by one. This method is much more convenient than a drill, because in this case there is less risk of making a mistake.

8. Check the product for strength and shrinkage depth. It is optimal for the spike to protrude 1.5 mm or more.

9. Dry the tires and store them. It is strictly forbidden to use the tire immediately. This will damage the studs and will invalidate all efforts.

The total time to complete the work with a short lunch break takes no more than five hours.

You can also use the Doshipun device, which simplifies the task.

Instructions for use in the photo.

You can make such an analogue with your own hands.

How to properly stud a car tire with your own hands?

The use of specialized winter tires is a mandatory requirement. Rubber intended for the cold season is more elastic. Adapted to work at extremely low temperatures, it provides better grip on asphalt and difficult surfaces, be it ice or snow.

The summer version will simply freeze in such conditions, the car will begin to slide and skid, and the risk of an accident will greatly increase. In addition to regular winter tires, popularly called “Velcro” tires, there are also special studded models on the market.

The spikes literally “bite” into the ice and cling to the packed snow, which ensures precise control and good maneuverability in the most difficult situations. Unfortunately, when driving on clean asphalt, the studs are subjected to increased mechanical stress, and therefore some of them may simply “fly out”.

Buying a new set of tires is an expensive pleasure; it is not surprising that many drivers have the question of how to restore studs on winter tires on their own? Experts write about this.

How can you tell if a tire needs repair?

Let’s say right away that restoring tire studs is a completely doable operation. If the tread has sufficient depth and the rubber material itself does not show any particular signs of wear, then there is no need to purchase a new set. The repair will allow you to completely restore the original technical characteristics of the rubber, and will also save a large sum of money.

You can determine that a product needs restoration by the following signs: holes are clearly visible on the surface, which were left behind by fallen thorns; there is a large gap between the stud and the tread; metal elements have lost their initial strength of fixation; without much effort they can be sunk inside the tire or loosened; the height of the spikes above the rubber surface has dropped to one and a half millimeters; traces of mechanical stress, abrasion and deformation are visible on them.

What tires can be retreaded?

Replacing studs is relevant and justified if the following conditions are met: The tire was equipped with studs at the factory, that is, it has all the necessary mounting holes, the location of which is strictly thought out and optimized. The rubber is no more than five years old.

After this period, the material begins to age and its properties change. The tread has a sufficient depth of at least 7 millimeters. No serious mechanical defects or other damage that can be determined during a visual inspection. Spikes: design features and principles of selection Visually, a spike is a very simple metal element, consisting of a body and a core protruding from it to a certain length. The body is formed by a fairly soft metal, while the core is as hard as possible, which reduces the intensity of mechanical wear. To achieve maximum fixation strength, the body is equipped with 2-3 flanges.

In order for do-it-yourself repairs and additional studs to give the desired result, when selecting studs you should be guided by several simple principles:

1. Ideally, you should use a rebuild kit recommended directly by the manufacturer. Many companies produce such kits; the metal elements fully correspond to the factory originals, which ensures ease of installation, as well as complete restoration of the original technical parameters of the rubber. Important! If you can’t find such a set on sale, then you can also purchase studs from a third-party brand, but pay attention that in terms of their configuration, production material and other main indicators, they fully correspond to the originals.

2. If you operate your vehicle mainly in the city, drive on asphalt, and rarely drive on ice and other difficult surfaces, then you can opt for simple studs with one flange.

3. For regular trips on ice and country roads, which are rarely cleared of run-up and compressed snow, it is better to install more powerful and reliable metal elements with several flanges.

Mechanized methods

Installation can be done entirely manually or using a special tool. Let's start the analysis with the second option. The most reliable, fastest and most effective tool is an air gun. Yes, it is not cheap, so buying it for one procedure is not the most rational decision.

Using the gun is quite simple, just follow the following algorithm: pumping up the tire; installing a spike in a specially equipped groove on the gun; the working part of the tool is pressed tightly against the mounting hole; the trigger is pulled, under great pressure the element literally “flies” into the socket and is fixed.

An alternative option is a screwdriver (drill with the ability to operate at low speeds), on which a special attachment is installed; you can purchase it in automobile stores.

Manual technique

You can install repair studs for winter tires using the simplest tool. In the process you will need the following: pliers; hammer; a screwdriver with a diameter corresponding to the mounting hole for the tenon; warm soapy water.

First of all, the tire must be thoroughly washed to remove dirt. Next, the entire tread surface is wetted with water so that the studs fit into the holes more easily. Immediately before installing the metal element, the seat is slightly expanded with a screwdriver, and the tenon is also washed with soapy water.

Important! The use of oil as a lubricant is unacceptable, since it is a chemically active substance that can cause destruction of the rubber material. To ensure that the tenon is at the required depth, it is driven into the socket with a hammer or pliers.

If the diameter of the mounting hole is too large, it is worn out and therefore does not provide reliable fixation, a simple and quick repair can be made using a special glue. For example, there is a good glue called Loctite 480.

Watch the video showing the easiest way to stud tires using a screwdriver:

Operating Tips

For tire repair at home to be truly effective, at first you need to follow some operating rules. The main requirement is that the tire must lie in the garage for several days so that the soap solution is completely absorbed into the material and the studs are firmly fixed in the structure of the product.

On your first trips, you don’t need to accelerate faster than 60 kilometers per hour. This speed limit is observed for approximately 300 kilometers. This is enough for the metal elements to be fixed, “grind in” to the material and achieve maximum strength.

In the future, you can use the tires in exactly the same way as immediately after purchase, since their original characteristics have been restored.

What devices are needed for manual re-studding?

In order to stud winter tires yourself, which do not have special holes, you need to find a high-quality drill with a special tubular drill bit. Then all the chips formed during drilling will go inside, and you will not need additional blowing of the holes made.

Be sure to set the limiter correctly, because all the spikes, without exception, must be at the same depth.

A special pneumatic gun connected to a special compressor will help you “plant” the studs into the rubber quickly and efficiently. Pressing the trigger sets in motion special paws that expand the hole, and the element easily fits into the place intended for it. In addition to the compressor, drill and gun, you will need: a set of suitable spikes; hammer and pliers; spray bottle with soap solution.

How to make your own spikes

Making your own studs is a labor-intensive and difficult process. Moreover, experts categorically do not recommend using self-made studs: made from improvised or simply low-quality materials, they wear out very quickly, or even simply fly out, causing significant damage to the rubber. In addition, all the elements must be exactly the same size, otherwise they will be difficult to install and will start flying out of the tire as soon as you drive out of the garage door. For all these reasons, it is better to give preference to ready-made kits from trusted manufacturers.

How to stud tires yourself

So, you decided to make the studs yourself. This is not difficult, and will also save money on service station fees. Most likely, you won't have an air gun with a compressor in your garage, so we'll assume that you only have pliers, a drill, and a screwdriver on hand.

First of all, you should drill holes, as described above (in the event that your tires were not provided with any). Now let's proceed directly to installing the tenons: Carefully wash the mounting area, rinsing both the outside and the inside, removing dust and remaining chips. We measure the depth of the holes made in order to choose the right repair kit. The elements should be slightly shorter than the hole itself. Take a screwdriver and widen the hole enough to push the spike into it.

Sometimes you also have to use pliers for this manipulation. We push the element with force, making sure that it sits tightly and securely, as if in its originally intended place. Upon visual inspection, there should be no noticeable distortions or bulges. We repeat the manipulation as many times as there are studs planned to be installed in the tire.

Many car owners stud tires on their own, because for a successful result you just need to practice a little, and everything will go as it should. An old tire that you no longer plan to use for its intended purpose is quite suitable for this. The main thing is to develop the skill of making identical holes and securely placing the spikes in them.

How to re-stud tires at home

If the tucking process involves installing additional elements where they were not originally there, then re-studding is the restoration of tires in order to extend their service life. In this case, you will have to work with rubber in which the studs have worn out or partially fallen out.

Additional studding is carried out with special spikes, which have a slightly enlarged cap. This design allows the elements to sit tightly in broken sockets. The work process itself is no different from tuning. The only thing you will have to do additionally is to clean the tire from the remnants of old studs and thoroughly wash it from dust, dirt and other debris.

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Is it worth making studs with glue?

Many questions concern whether it is possible to perform studding using an adhesive solution. This method was used in Soviet times, when studded tires were not available in stores, and a simple “snowflake” did not provide the necessary stability on ice.

Today, installing studs with glue is used only in the sports field. To participate in racing, a special modification of studs or simple studded tires are used.

When choosing the second option, the previously installed studs are removed, and in their place others are installed that are suitable for a specific route and provide optimal driving conditions. For maximum fixation, a special cyanoactylate-based adhesive is used.

If we talk about civil transport, there is no need to use glue, because the plastic sleeve securely fixes the product inside the hole and prevents it from falling out. This means that additional adhesive is not necessary.

But if you still decide to use glue, then universal adhesives “Mig” and Moment gel transparent are suitable for this task.

If a rubber stud specialist decides to use glue, make sure that he does not use ordinary inserts and installs primary studs rather than repair studs in the existing openings.

Tools required for studding

In order to carry out tucking without a pneumatic gun, a minimum set of tools is required, which is presented in the table below.

Table - Tools for studding tires

To speed up the studding process without a pneumatic gun, you can use a screwdriver. This method is called semi-automatic. A screwdriver allows you to screw in tenons to the same required depth in a short period of time.

Recommendations for proper driving in winter

To extend the life of studded tires, you need to know and follow winter driving rules.

Make these recommendations:

1. Try to drive around the city at a speed of no more than 60 km/h.
2. Do not use sudden braking if you can do without it. When approaching traffic lights, start stopping early.
3. Do not disable ABS or vehicle stopping assistance systems. They help avoid wheel locking, which leads to rapid loss of studs.
4. Forget about drifting, because this driving style directly affects the reduction of tire life.
5. When the outside temperature rises, try to move slower than in frosty weather. This is due to the fact that at above-zero temperatures the tires heat up and soften faster. As a result, the seat stretches and the tenon can fly out.
6. During severe frosts (below -20), try not to drive faster than 60 km/h. This is due to a decrease in the elasticity of rubber in the cold.
7. If you have a manual transmission in your car, try to brake more often with the engine rather than with the brake pedal.
8. After the break-in is completed, the studded tires are changed from right to left. This means that there is no need to change wheels next year.

Generally speaking, a sporty driving style “kills” the studs and leads to a reduction in the service life of such rubber.

Question to the expert

Does asphalt temperature affect the service life of studs?

Definitely YES. Remember that driving on studded tires in warm weather will cause them to wear out faster. The faster the process occurs, the more active the loss. In addition, movement speed increases, which is also a mistake.

How to save thorns

There are several ways to extend the life of winter tires. Most often, experts advise changing wheels a couple of weeks before the onset of cold weather. During this time, the car will drive on dry asphalt, and the spikes will strengthen in place.

Also, experienced drivers do not advise speeding up too much on new tires or driving over high curbs and other obstacles on the road.

Manufacturers' recommendations

When buying winter tires in a special store, many drivers are too lazy to read the instructions for their use. It's worth doing this because... it contains advice from the manufacturer that is specific to that brand of tire.

Most often the following parameters are indicated there:

• temperature conditions at which it is recommended to use tires;
• Is running in winter studded tires necessary?
• recommended driving speed on new wheels;
• tips and contraindications for the driver;
• wheel load restrictions.

The wheel itself also indicates parameters that should be observed to make the wheel last longer. Typically, the permissible speed and load index are indicated on the side of the tire.

Studing or buying new tires

After reading the material above, the question may arise, what is better - to make studs or buy a winter tire with “factory” studs.

Here, a lot depends on two factors: the condition of the tires and the budget. The best option is to buy a new tire, but it is not suitable for everyone due to the lack of the necessary amount for regular purchases.

It's easier to stud tires. In this case, contact professionals who will check the condition of the rubber, the depth of the holes and tread, and then decide on the relevance of introducing studs.

The following factors indicate the need to purchase a new tire:

1. Service life over 75,000 km or more than five years (whichever comes first).
2. Damage to side parts and tread.
3. Significant reduction in tread depth to less than 6 mm. To obtain accurate results, data is measured at five to six points, in the central part and along the edges.

If the winter tire has served no more than five seasons or has traveled no more than 50,000 km, there is no significant wear or cracks, studding or tire replacement is appropriate.

If the tires have traveled no more than 30,000 km and have served for less than three years, there is no significant damage to them, it is not recommended to throw away the wheels. Even if more than half of the studs are lost, studding can save money.

Is it possible to stud tires yourself?

The technical characteristics of a car tire depend on the number, size and location of the studs. Regardless of the loss of precious time and the difficulty of labor, self-studding can bring additional benefits to the car owner. Usually this process is carried out if:

1. a car enthusiast cannot purchase branded winter tires;
2. tires at a lower price are of poor quality;
3. There is a need to install studs yourself, depending on the individual characteristics of the car.

Some manufacturers sell studded tires of inadequate quality. When driving, the studs begin to fall out, which leads to deformation of the tire.

How to properly store studded tires

To extend the life of studded rubber, it is necessary to properly store the product in the summer.

Follow these tips:

1. Do not store tires on the balcony, because there is a lot of sun, the rays of which destroy the rubber. As a result, the fixation of the spikes is weakened. As a last resort, you can use air-permeable wheel storage bags.
2. Keep the tire in a dry place, because high humidity and dampness lead to rust on the metal.
3. Do not leave tires near paints and other chemicals. Vapors from certain substances can negatively affect rubber.
4. Clean tires before storing. It is important to remove reagents that cause metal corrosion from the surface. If you do not wash the product, the tires will literally “rot” until the next shoe change.
5. Move tires as far as possible from a radiator, heat gun or other heat sources. Their peculiarity is that they dry out the air, and an excessively dry atmosphere is dangerous.
6. Store tires without a disc in a standing position, and with a disc - on top of each other. This recommendation allows you to avoid deformation of the product and its design.

If it is impossible to store studded tires at home, use. Products are stored in them in compliance with all rules regarding humidity, temperature and position.

How to break in studded tires

Studded tires need proper running-in, because this is the only way to avoid excessive wear and maintain the required number of studs and tread depth for 5-6 seasons.

Recommendations:

1. For the first 500-700 km, try not to accelerate more than 70 km/h.
2. Forget about sudden braking and slipping.
3. Set the pressure specified in the tire markings.

This period is necessary for the studs to finally fall into place and to get used to the winter tires. It’s a good idea to go to the wheel alignment and have the wheels balanced.

Question to the expert

Why do the thorns, on the one hand, fall out faster?

The rate at which aluminum inserts fall out is influenced by many factors - the design of the car, its technical condition and load. We must not forget about other points, such as driving style, correct wheel balancing, type of coating and a number of other factors. All these nuances must be taken into account in combination when there is a pattern of studs falling out on only one side of the tire.