If the VAZ 2109 body is in good condition, then after the power unit has exhausted its service life, the owners are faced with the choice of a new engine. And since carburetor versions are no longer produced, installing an injection version will require a complete replacement of the standard electrical wiring.
To replace the motor you will also need a new wiring kit.
For reference: in a carburetor engine, fuel was mixed with air by an air flow, and only then entered the cylinders. In the injection system, it is supplied directly to the cylinders using electronically controlled injectors.
Sensors VAZ 2109 injector
Injection engine options installed on the VAZ 2109 models, as well as the later VAZ 21099, VAZ 2110, VAZ2112, etc., have a number of undeniable advantages.
However, the normal functioning of such power units largely depends on the normal operation of various sensors. Having at least minimal knowledge about the operating principle of these sensors, their location, possible malfunctions, as well as the features of their replacement, can greatly facilitate the life of owners of these car brands. Coolant temperature sensor
Structurally, this sensor is a thermistor, the resistance of which varies depending on the ambient temperature. The main characteristics of the engine depend on its readings, and its malfunction can lead to engine overheating, increased fuel consumption, difficulty starting a hot engine, and many others. Finding where the coolant temperature sensor is located is not too difficult - it is located on the outlet pipe of the engine block head near the thermostat. Replacing the sensor will require first draining the coolant and removing the air filter.
According to its purpose, this measuring element is designed to record abnormal vibrations in the engine body and its operating principle is based on the piezocrystalline effect. Failure of this sensor manifests itself in the appearance of “dullness” of the engine and a noticeable increase in fuel consumption. The sensor is located in the upper part of the cylinder block and its replacement does not require special professional skills. Beginning car enthusiasts should take into account that VAZ cars can be equipped with both resonant-type knock sensors (in the form of a barrel) and broadband meters (in the form of a tablet), which are not interchangeable with each other.
Throttle position sensor
— It is a potentiometric meter, a sensitive element, which is attached to the throttle valve and, accordingly, information about its position is supplied to the ECU. This sensor is a very unreliable element and a trivial washing of the car can lead to its failure. Malfunctions of the throttle position sensor can be manifested by increased speed at idle, jerking during smooth changes in movement, and engine stopping when changing modes. The sensor is located on the side of the throttle assembly. When installing it after replacement, you should remember the need to install a safety foam ring.
Sometimes it is called a lambda probe and it is attached to the exhaust pipe of the muffler. The main purpose of this element is to monitor the oxygen content in the exhaust gases and, based on its readings, the amount of fuel supplied to the engine is adjusted. Failure of the oxygen sensor can lead to increased fuel consumption and poor CO2 performance. Replacing an oxygen sensor is quite simple, however, when performing this technological operation, you should not forget that the body of the lambda probe is equipped with a permanent plug with a section of wiring that is often damaged due to inexperience; in addition, you should be careful when putting on the protective silicone cover (in the wrong position it can melt ).
— placed on the gearbox directly between the speedometer drive and the tip of its flexible shaft. In its work, it uses the Hall effect and its impulse information, provided for processing by the central control unit, is proportional to the wheel speed. In addition to the traditional disappearance of speed information provided to the driver, the failure of this sensor can lead to a slight deterioration in overall road performance. On VAZ cars, the cause of failure of this sensor is often oxidation of the contacts in its connector.
Crankshaft position sensor.
The value of this sensor is very large and it generates information proportional to the change in the angular position of a special disk attached to the engine crankshaft. It is on the basis of this information that the cylinder that currently requires fuel and spark supply is determined. The sensor is located on the oil pump cover and its failure can lead to the engine stopping or, at a minimum, cutting off the speed in the range from 3500 to 5000 rpm.
In conclusion, I would like to note that, unfortunately, one of the weakest points of AvtoVAZ products today is the condition of various connections and in case of problems with the VAZ 2109, VAZ 2110, VAZ 212, VAZ 2114 sensors, before checking, dismantling or replacing one or For another sensor, it is useful to first evaluate the condition of its connector, contacts, integrity of the wires, and whether all the necessary gaskets are in place.
Video “Visual instructions for replacing the device”
You can learn how to replace the sensor yourself at home from the video below (the author of the video is Thoughts and advice from Mustafa Murtazaev).
The cooling system is responsible for the optimal temperature regime of the power plant, at which the power output is maximum. This system includes a radiator cooling jacket and pipes through which fluid circulates. Circulation is provided by a pump driven by the crankshaft.
Various types of coolant temperature sensors
The system also includes a thermostat, which ensures quick warm-up of the engine by shutting off the pipeline going to the radiator, while the liquid circulates only inside the cooling jacket. When a certain temperature is reached, the thermostat opens the pipe, after which the liquid circulates in a large circle, including the radiator.
The radiator cools the heated liquid. To cool the liquid faster, a fan is installed on the radiator, which creates additional air flow. But this fan does not always work; it turns on only when the liquid temperature exceeds a certain value.
VAZ sensors - the main sensors on injection VAZ cars
So, dear visitors, today we will tell you about the main sensors on the VAZ. Since the operating principle of injection engines in the AvtoVAZ line is the same, in principle we have put together a manual on the sensors that are installed on injection VAZs by the manufacturer, and have prepared a brief description of the operating principles and purpose of each of the sensors below. Indeed, in essence, the very principle of operation of an injection engine is the interconnected work of the “brains” (ECU) and various kinds of sensors; there is a constant exchange of information between them and, depending on the totality of certain indicators of the sensors, the controller prepares the mixture and ensures stable and correct operation of the engine.
So let's start with the crankshaft position sensor DPKV . (pictured above)
Without this extremely important sensor and if it malfunctions, the car simply will not start. DPKV generates signals to the ECU using a special toothed disk, on which, upon careful examination, you can see what appears to be a “missing” tooth; this disk is installed directly on the crankshaft. DPKV on VAZs is located on the oil pump cover. The sensor is quite reliable and its failure is rare. But nevertheless, if it fails, you will have problems. We recommend carrying it with you in the glove compartment just in case.
Let's move on. Another important sensor is the throttle position sensor TPS .
This sensor works in conjunction with the idle air control valve to determine how open the throttle valve is. If this sensor begins to fail or fails altogether, then we will not see a stable idle and the engine speed will live its own life. Dips may also be felt, the engine will pull jerkily, in general it is not pleasant.
Now we are presented with a phase sensor, or camshaft position sensor DPRV .
It determines the position of the camshaft. Not used on 8 valve engines of early injection VAZs. Participates in the formation of phased injection, that is, the desired injector of a particular cylinder works at the right moment. If the sensor is faulty, then the system works as if it were not there, and fuel is supplied in pairs-parallel mode, which leads to excessive consumption of gasoline with all that it entails. That is, you can drive, but it is not necessary; it is better to replace the faulty sensor.
Now let's look at the DD Knock Sensor .
It is installed directly on the engine block between the third and second cylinders. There are two types - resonant and broadband. These two types of sensors are not interchangeable. It corresponds entirely to its name, monitors engine detonation and, depending on the presence and strength of detonation, helps the “brains” adjust the ignition timing (ignition timing). If the sensor fails, the engine will slow down and gas consumption will increase.
Now let’s move on to a sensor that is familiar to all of us, which also played an important role in carburetor cars - this is the DTOZh coolant temperature sensor .
It controls the coolant temperature, transmits information about this to the ECU, which, in addition to turning the radiator fan on and off, uses it for a host of needs, from operating the adsorber valve to adjusting the speed on a cold engine
Now the next sensor is the speed sensor.
It generates pulses depending on the speed of the vehicle, is installed on the gearbox; all injection VAZs use exclusively six-pulse DCs. In addition to the speedometer and odometer readings, it also affects the mixture formation, so do not neglect its serviceability.
The next sensor in our manual is the mass air flow sensor DMRV .
The sensor plays a significant role in the operation of the engine, so very often the symptoms of its incorrect operation are a floating idle, uneven engine operation at low speeds, deterioration of traction, in general, not very pleasant. It is located immediately after the air filter and controls the amount of air taken from outside. Quite an expensive sensor. Read this article about how to check its functionality and try to restore it in case of a malfunction.
Lambda probe or oxygen concentration sensor
determines the amount of oxygen in exhaust gases and takes an active part in engine mixture formation. On Euro-2 there is 1 lambda installed, on Euro-3 there are already two, but the second one does not participate in mixture formation and simply performs a controlling function. With a mileage of 80-100 thousand kilometers, it may well fail or become clogged and give incorrect readings; therefore, deterioration in engine dynamics and excessive fuel consumption are guaranteed.
Well, for starters, one of the most capricious sensors is the Idle Air Controller (IAC)
This sensor is responsible for stable idling. Allows air into the engine at idle speed, bypassing the TPS. It is on this that the stable idle speed at the required speed primarily depends; it very often fails, and there is also a very high percentage of defects among new sensors. Well, that’s all in a nutshell, we hope that a short educational program on the sensors used on injection VAZs helped you get a picture of the operation of an injection engine. Good luck to everyone on the roads.
Signs, symptoms and causes of faulty sensors in a car.
Good day, dear readers, in this article we will analyze many reasons, but mainly the symptoms of malfunctioning car sensors. Remember that before you go to a service station and panic, you should spend a little time and try to find the cause of the problem yourself and save money.
Signs of a malfunction of the TPS sensor:
— high speeds are possible at idle, this is the most characteristic sign; — a noticeable decrease in engine power and deterioration in throttle response; — when pressing the accelerator there are jerks, dips and twitches; — floating speed at idle; — when changing gears, the engine turns off spontaneously; — overheating is possible; - detonation. (personally, my symptoms were high speeds, inability to brake the engine, jerking, decreased power and, accordingly, increased gas consumption).
The photo shows very worn tracks
The reasons for the malfunction of the TPS sensor can be: - oxidation of the contacts - you can help in this case, you need to take a special WD liquid and clean all the contacts in the block and under the cover with a cotton swab; — worn sensor substrates if their design included sputtering of a resistive layer; - the moving contact fails - some tip of this contact may break, then scoring will form and other tips will also fail; - the throttle valve does not close completely at idle - in this case, you can slightly file the sensor seats and the throttle valve should close.
Location of components and parts on the injection car VAZ-21099
Front-wheel drive VAZ cars are very popular in Russia due to their high maintainability, relatively low cost of spare parts, and simple design. But due to the large number of modifications, it is not easy for the driver to understand even the instructions where this or that unit (part) is located, in particular, on the VAZ-21099 car the injector.
Before repairing a car, some parts have to be searched for a long time and painstakingly, thus wasting a lot of time. In this article we will help you figure out where this or that device is located on the VAZ model 21099, and we hope that the information will be to some extent useful to car owners who have just bought a car, or to novice drivers.
Muffler
Sometimes an injection car does not want to start due to shedding of the catalyst in the muffler. It serves to reduce harmful emissions and is installed in accordance with current environmental legislation on all cars.
When the catalyst crumbles, the gases cannot escape normally, which means that the car will not move, since the computer will not allow it to start. It is not difficult to check this possibility - unscrew the muffler mount so that the exhaust comes directly from the resonator. If this helps, then change the catalyst.
Where is the fuel pump located on the VAZ-21099 injector
Removing and installing a gasoline pump (PG) is not a difficult job and does not require extensive plumbing experience or high qualifications. But if you don’t have to look for a fuel pump on carburetor cars for a long time (it is located on the engine, under the hood), then a beginner may not find it on the injector on the first try. Where is the fuel pump located on the VAZ-21099 sedan injector? Let's figure it out step by step:
- we move the front seats in the car forward as much as possible to free up space in the rear;
- open the rear left door of the car, find a small hinge on the rear sofa, which is located at the junction of the “seats” approximately in the middle of the cabin;
- pull the loop up, thereby raising the back of the lower seat;
- under the carpet we see the gas tank flap;
- unscrew the two fastening screws, remove the hatch and find the fuel pump underneath.
Where is the fan relay VAZ-21099 injector
Quite often a problem arises with the Ninety-Nine when the engine fan does not turn on and the coolant begins to boil. If such a malfunction occurs, first of all they check the functionality of the fan itself by applying voltage directly to it from the battery, but there may be other problems.
In order to check the entire circuit, it is important to find where the VAZ-21099 injector fan relay is located, since it is responsible for turning on the airflow. We find this part in the front of the car, on the passenger side, it is installed under the glove compartment, at the passenger’s feet.
The required relay in the picture is indicated by an orange circle, and here you will also find a fuse that blows when the cooling fan is short-circuited.
Electronic engine control unit
The engine control unit is responsible for the operation of almost the entire car. In this part, hundreds of processes are calculated, all readings from sensors installed on the car are processed. Many people call the ECU a “computer” and it’s impossible to disagree with this. The unit, receiving readings from the sensors, processes them and controls the engine, adjusting the supply of fuel and air to the combustion chamber.
Location
The engine control unit on the VAZ 2109 is located under the glove compartment at the feet of the front passenger. You can see it by looking under the panel; the block is closed with a special plastic cover.
Signs of malfunction:
Problems with the operation of the sensor are most often associated with damage to the microcircuit, for example, burnout of a track or damage to one of the radio components, due to which one of the cylinders may fail, etc. It is quite difficult to judge the failure of the ECU based on its symptoms, since they are all similar to the failure of one of the sensors, so the malfunction of the unit can only be determined by diagnosing, disassembling, or replacing it with a known good one.
Where is the mass of the VAZ-21099 injector (main)
If the starter turns weakly, or the engine does not start at all (clicks occur when starting), various electrical problems arise, it is likely that the car does not have normal weight. Fixing such a problem is generally not difficult, but to do this you still need to know where the mass of the VAZ-21099 injector is located.
The main mass (thick) wire goes from the negative terminal of the battery to the engine, the thinner wire is connected to the car body, all energy consumers in the car depend on this connection. If the contact is poor, the battery stops charging normally; in order for the starter to turn well, you should check the reliability of these contacts and clean the metal from oxidation. If, due to a heavy load (for example, when installing additional equipment), the ground wire heats up and there is clearly not enough of it, you can “lay” additional ground almost anywhere where good contact between the engine and the body is ensured. The main thing is that this wire has a sufficient cross-section.
Practical advice
The operation of an injection power unit, and in particular the maintenance of its electronic components, is fundamentally different from carburetor engine systems.
Owners of converted cars must learn a few basic rules:
- Before dismantling the injection control system components, be sure to disconnect the negative cable from the battery terminal;
Working with car wiring requires care and precision.
- Do not start the engine if the terminals of the wires on the battery have poor contact. Be sure to check how tightly they are tightened;
- Do not disconnect the battery while the vehicle engine is running. This is guaranteed to lead to failure of the ECU;
- Monitor the ECU temperature. It is not allowed to overheat (65°C when the car is running and above 80°C, for example when drying in a paint booth). If such a process is unavoidable, remove the ECU from the vehicle for the duration of the work;
- It is also necessary to remove the ECU or disconnect it from the vehicle’s on-board system when carrying out welding work on body parts.
Where is the starter relay located?
Just like the engine cooling fan, the starter is controlled by a relay, and its malfunction can cause problems:
- when you turn the ignition key, nothing happens, the engine does not show any signs of life;
- When I try to start the engine, clicks are heard, but the starter does not crank.
Finding out where the starter relay is located on a VAZ-21099i car is very simple; to do this, you just need to open the hood of the car and look behind the air pipe of the injection engine; the part you are looking for is shown below in the picture.
Where is the temperature sensor located?
If the temperature sensor does not show on the instrument panel, there is a high risk of overheating the engine, since the instrument panel does not inform the driver about the heating of the internal combustion engine coolant. Of course, the instrument panel or electrical wiring may be faulty, but most often the temperature sensor (DTOZH) on the engine itself refuses to work.
Where is the temperature sensor located on an injection car 099? Of course, you need to look for it in the engine compartment:
- open the hood;
- we find the wiring that is located between the rear of the engine valve cover and the air filter housing;
- where the DTOZH is located can be seen in more detail in the following photos.
Where is the speed sensor located?
The speed sensor (DS) on front-wheel drive VAZ cars reads pulses depending on wheel speed and transmits the data to the electronic control unit (ECU). When braking the engine, the fuel supply is turned off with the help of the diesel engine and the computer, thus achieving more economical operation of the internal combustion engine. If the sensor is faulty, an error code is recorded, gasoline consumption increases slightly, and idle speed decreases, especially during heavy braking. It is difficult to immediately detect where the speed sensor is located, since it is hidden under the air filter housing (AFC).
We find the part we need as follows:
- open the hood of the car;
- Using a 10mm wrench, unscrew the two KVF fastening bolts;
- loosen the clamp of the air “corrugation”, disconnect the “chip” with the wires;
- we take out the KVF, now the sensor has already appeared in the field of view, it is located on the gearbox (gearbox) housing, wires are connected to it, connected using a connector.
The DS can be easily unscrewed by hand, and the plug with wires can be pulled out even after the sensor has been unscrewed (but carefully so as not to damage the wiring during rotation).
Lada 2109 Modified with a file) › Logbook › Signs of dying DPKV and diagnosis
What is a crankshaft position sensor (CPS), I think, most people don’t need to be told; on a VAZ it is a magnet with a winding installed on the low tide of the oil pump and with its working part “looking” at the gear teeth of the crankshaft auxiliary units. “Auxiliary” is perhaps a strong word, because the only unit that it rotates through the serpentine belt is the generator pulley))) 2 teeth are missing on this gear, so the controller determines the current position of the crankshaft and counts the number of revolutions per minute.
Indirect signs of the beginning of sensor failure: 1) You have to turn the starter for a long time, especially if the car has been standing for several days without moving in damp weather. In the most severe cases, after long cranking, rare flashes begin, sometimes the car stalls or works unstably, plus unburned fuel in the plug, carefully poured by the ECU before unsuccessful starts, explodes. Once it is possible to start, the car can drive and start as usual. 2) After a long trip (more than 15 minutes), the asshole begins to feel that the car is not as fast as it was at the beginning, although there may be no obvious failures. 3) Sometimes the car rushes like a tank (in the same weather, on the same gasoline, etc.), and sometimes it crawls like a turtle, although there may be no obvious failures either, the car is just stupid.
As the engine compartment warms up, the car almost always becomes duller; in extreme cases, outright kicking begins, as if at full speed a bad person stuck a crowbar right between the gearbox shafts. And here the self-diagnosis system of January usually comes to life, lighting the Jackie Chan lamp. It often happens that the error disappears, then appears again, and so on ad infinitum.
Smart diagnosticians check DPKV using an oscilloscope, but most of us are much easier to find a laptop and an OBD-2 cable.
Then everything is extremely simple: 1) We connect the laptop to the cerebellum, start the engine and run the logging program (I use “Atomic logger”) 2) We drive until symptoms appear or an error appears 3) We import the resulting log into Excel, where we are only interested in 1 parameter “ Engine rotation speed “ 4) We build a graph, where along the Y axis we plot this same frequency. 5) We are looking for obvious dips in revolutions (for example, from 3500 to 0), which should not exist. 6) Throw away the DPKV and run for a new one.
Although, regarding point 6, I would advise you to hold off, because... Buying a new sensor is not a guarantee that it will work better than the old one. For example, this happened to me, so I had to clean the old one and put it back while it was running)))
Something to consider before installing a new sensor: Compare its magnetic strength compared to the old one. If the sensor is magnetized, for example, to the blade of a shoe knife, it should fall after applying a noticeable force. If not, take it back to the store.
Below is a screenshot of a diagram in Excel, built using data from the diagnostic program. I specifically highlighted the failure in revolutions, although it can be seen like this:
Where is the fuel filter located?
The fuel filter (TF) on the VAZ-21099i is designed to clean gasoline from debris, dirt and various impurities; it is a monolithic structure with a rigid metal body and a filter element inside. The frequency of its replacement is every 20-30 thousand km of the distance traveled, also if the car begins to move jerkily, and diagnostics showed that the fuel pump is clogged.
It’s easy to find out where the fuel filter is located; to do this, you need to install the car on an inspection hole or a car lift. The TF is located on the bottom of the body, next to the rear beam and the gas tank, and is secured with a special clamp, which is tightened with a bolt and nut.
Before you start changing the filter, you need to relieve the fuel pressure, otherwise when you unscrew the fuel fittings, gasoline will splash under high pressure. You can relieve pressure in the line using a special nipple located at the rear of the fuel rail. Before starting such an operation, it is necessary to prepare a plastic container into which gasoline should be poured, then unscrew the safety cap.
To release the pressure, you can use a standard flat-head screwdriver; when you press the nipple valve, gasoline will come out of the system.
After removing fuel from the line, we proceed to replacing the fuel pump.
Fuel system
If there is a spark in a carburetor or injection engine, it should be assumed that the car does not start due to problems in the fuel supply system.
First make sure that gasoline is flowing into the injectors. If not, then look at the VAZ fuel pump. It is equipped with an electric motor and is located directly in the tank. Normally, when the ignition is activated, it starts to make noise.
It is advisable to find out whether the pressure in the ramp is normal. Measure it with a pressure gauge - there is a special fitting for it. Connect the device to it - if the reading is 4 atmospheres, then everything is in order. Low pressure appears due to a clogged fuel filter; this element will have to be removed and cleaned.
If there is no positive result, move on to the injectors. When they become clogged, gasoline either stops flowing altogether or its volume noticeably decreases. Moreover, it does not spray, but only drips. This problem does not make itself felt while the engine is hot. In frosty weather, the car, even if it starts moving, will still not be able to develop normal power.
In addition, fuel atomization does not occur when the computer does not open the injectors. Make sure they have all the wires and are securely attached.
History of VAZ 21099
In the early 80s, constructors and designers were faced with the task of creating the most expensive and prestigious car of the VAZ series. It was supposed to replace the VAZ 2106 and become as unified as possible with the 2108/09 generation. Full-size plasticine models were made already in 1981.
Two years later, all the necessary tests of the VAZ 2108/09 were completed. Since by that time the new sedan was not ready and in order not to bother with permits and lengthy approvals for the new car, it was assigned the index 21099. Due to material problems, production began only in 1990, and in the late 90s the era of forced injection and on-board computers. The idle speed, crankshaft and throttle sensors of the VAZ 21099 injector have become a headache for motorists.
This car is a five-seat front-wheel drive sedan with four doors. It is a modification of the VAZ 2109 with a hatchback body. The car differs from the LADA Samara family only in the front radiator grille and the presence of a trunk. The car is well designed and calibrated, has the best handling in its family, high dynamics and stability, and the increase in maximum speed was very popular with consumers, and before the release of the “ten” it was considered the best VAZ car.
Until 1997, “ninety-niners” were produced exclusively with carburetor engines; later, such engines began to be replaced by units with injection equipment. Moreover, initially the idle speed sensor, crankshaft sensor and throttle sensor of the VAZ 21099 were manufactured abroad or installed from similar foreign cars. In subsequent years, production of domestic parts with forced fuel injection began under license.
Under the hood of the "nine"
The standard 21099 engine has a displacement of 1499 m3. The driving wheels are front, the steering is rack and pinion type, the maximum speed is 160 km/h. This car became a revolutionary in efficiency, fuel consumption on the highway was 5.9 liters, and in the combined cycle 8 liters per hundred.
In 2004, AvtoVAZ stopped producing this model, switching to Samara-2 generation cars. However, new cars inherited the old on-board computer and the same ECU sensors. So the VAZ 21099 detonation sensor is also installed on the updated 210115. For some time, VAZ 21099 were produced in Ukraine, at the Zaporozhye SKD Automobile Plant, from Russian components.
What you need to know when buying a used car
Since 1998, the VAZ 21099 began to be equipped with injection engines, which are a priority to buy. Once you own a used car, you will often need to repair it yourself. There is nothing wrong with this; changing the knock sensor of a VAZ 21099, whose injector has begun to act up, will not be difficult. Most operations do not require special training or special knowledge - you can do everything yourself by watching a video from YouTube or reading step-by-step instructions on the Internet.
The best way to check the condition of the engine is to measure the compression in the cylinders. For 21099, the best result will be 13 units, and if it is less than 10, then a major engine overhaul will be required. It is worth considering the fact that the difference in readings when measuring in different cylinders should not exceed 1%. It is not advisable to buy a car with a dirty, oily engine, as this indicates serious damage. Beware of cars with ECU problems, since a failed VAZ 21099 or 21115 throttle sensor can ruin your nerves for a long time, you will get tired of looking for the cause of the breakdown.
Terminals in the engine compartment require additional care
After purchasing a VAZ 21099, it is advisable to treat all electrical contacts on the engine compartment terminals, including the fuse box, with a special agent. Experts advise that when buying a used VAZ, do not change the antifreeze and oil immediately, but take a closer look - maybe the car you bought does not need it.
Advantages of purchasing a VAZ 21099:
- cheap spare parts;
- low cost of the car;
- strong and elastic bumpers that can withstand not very strong impacts;
- low fuel consumption, especially for injection models;
- good thrust at low speeds for this engine size.
21099 also has disadvantages:
- low-quality engine attachments, defective parts;
- strong rattling of the interior, low sound insulation;
- constant problems with the cooling system in summer and with electronics in winter;
- The quality of the sensors leaves much to be desired.
Thus, the VAZ 21099 throttle sensor is afraid of moisture and fails after 5,000 kilometers, in particular the idle speed sensor is a “ninety-ninth” problem.
Considering that this model was produced in the Russian Federation until 2004, and in Ukraine until 2011, it is quite difficult to find a used car without problems. However, if you are not afraid of the prospect of doing small repairs yourself, this budget option will be ideal.
Main malfunctions of the power plant
Many car owners know that the idle speed sensor and knock sensor often fail, ruining the drivers' nerves: the car can simply stall or spontaneously increase the crankshaft speed in the middle of a busy intersection in the city, causing an emergency.
Removing the throttle sensor
The VAZ 21099 throttle sensor often causes trouble, causing on-board computer failures, not to mention uncontrolled driving and the dangers associated with it. As mentioned above, trouble with VAZs often occurs due to flooding or other reasons for the ingress of moisture, which leads to failures of the on-board computer, disruption of the operation of individual sensors or the entire electronically controlled engine unit.
You need to know that the idle air control is an important part of the distributed fuel injection system and is used for proper engine operation in all modes, including idle. The design of this regulator is based on a stepper motor, assembled into a single unit with a cone-shaped needle, on a spring; the idle air control (IAC) is located in the throttle system housing. It is located in the same place as the throttle sensor on VAZ 21099, 2109.
How does the idle speed sensor work in an injection system?
After the ignition is started, the idle mode sensor extends its rod, which in its maximum state rests against the hole in the throttle pipe. The regulator is then busy counting the steps that return the valve to its original position. It entirely depends on the firmware version of the on-board computer. For example, Bosch firmware is designed for 50 steps. In this case, the injector sends an opening control signal to the VAZ 21099 throttle valve.
Adjusting engine speed
At the time of adjustment, the engine must be warmed up and the sensor must operate in 30 - 50 steps. Depending on the number of sensor steps, the volume of the air mixture that passes into the combustion chamber through the calibration hole changes. You need to understand: the more the sensor rod is extended, the more steps the sensor will produce. When purchasing, you must carefully select the idle speed regulator for VAZs, paying attention to the gap between the rod head and the flange: it should not exceed 2.3 cm!
Forced distribution fuel injection systems also use a mass air mixture flow sensor (MAF), which supplies a certain amount of air into the combustion chamber through the on-board computer. Then the computer determines the optimal amount of fuel that needs to be supplied along with the air mixture for reliable ignition and uniform combustion, ensuring optimal operation of the combustion engine. In this case, the crankshaft sensor provides information about the number of engine revolutions, thereby controlling the idle speed regulator through the on-board computer. According to this scheme, the engine always receives the optimal amount of air-fuel mixture into the combustion chamber and operates with maximum efficiency. If the engine is cold, the controller will specifically increase the crankshaft speed using the idle speed regulator, ensuring that the engine reaches the desired thermal conditions quickly and is able to drive without a long warm-up procedure.
Diagnostics and repair of HHH
Replacing the sensor is quite simple. First, disconnect the “ground”, the negative terminal of the battery, then you need to release the plastic latch and disconnect the contact block from the idle speed sensor mounted on the throttle pipe of the VAZ 21099. Next, you need to unscrew a couple of fastening screws and remove the regulator from the pipe. Usually everyone loses bolts at this point, since the screw located next to the receiver is very inconveniently located. Car mechanics advise you to first unscrew the left screw, then pull the sensor slightly towards you and easily unscrew the second bolt. It is better to reassemble in the reverse order, lubricating the regulator with oil for ease of installation.
Calibrating a new sensor
Having installed a repaired or new, just purchased sensor, it needs to be calibrated. This is done very simply: connect the negative battery terminal, turn on the ignition briefly (for 5-10 seconds). The ignition is turned off. The device will not be calibrated if the battery has not been disconnected. In a similar way, the VAZ 21099 throttle sensor, the injector of which operates in normal mode, is tested and calibrated.
Auto experts strongly recommend that motorists use DXX produced in the 2112-114830 series. Regulators “KZTA” РХХ 2112-1148300-04 are also popular. It is necessary to take into account that the final mark of the regulator is of great importance, and it is best to buy a device with the same marks as those that were on the broken one. There are four types in total: 01,2,3, 04. They have a strict interchangeability procedure: the regulator with the number 01 can only be changed to 03, and 02 only to 04 and vice versa.
It is noteworthy that the idle speed sensor cannot be diagnosed via a computer; indirect signs indicate its breakdown:
- the engine constantly stalls in idle mode;
- The idle speed constantly fluctuates (although the DPKV is working);
- when the engine starts cold, there is no increase in crankshaft speed;
- The engine stalls right when the gearbox is shifted.
It is noteworthy that the symptoms of a broken DPS are similar to malfunctions caused by a defective DPS. The difference is that the second option can be diagnosed by a critical error on the on-board computer. A check email notification will pop up. It’s good that DXX for VAZ 21099 costs no more than 400 rubles.
CO – potentiometer
CO - potentiometer is installed on VAZ 21093 cars, sensors are on an engine with an injection system that does not have feedback (that is, without a converter and an oxygen sensor). It is located in the engine compartment on the wall of the air intake box housing and is a variable resistor. It works like this:
- CO - the potentiometer sends a signal to the ECU that is used to adjust the concentration of the air-fuel mixture in order to obtain a normalized level of carbon monoxide (CO) concentration in the exhaust gases at idle speed
- It is similar to the mixture control screw found in carburetors.
- Adjustment of the carbon monoxide content using a potentiometer can only be performed at a service station using a gas analyzer
Idle speed controller
The idle speed control adjusts the crankshaft speed at idle by controlling the amount of supply air that bypasses the throttle valve (the throttle valve is closed). Principle of operation:
- It consists of a two-pole stepper motor and a cone valve connected to it
- The valve is extended or retracted by computer signals
- When the regulator needle extends completely (this corresponds to 0 steps), it blocks the air supply
- And when the needle is retracted, it provides air access proportional to the number of steps the needle is indented from the saddle
- Failure leads to instability of idle speed, and the engine may stall
Replacing the regulator goes like this:
- De-energize the car wiring by removing the terminals from the battery
- Press the plastic latch to disconnect the connector from the regulator located on the throttle pipe and marked with number 2
Number 2 indicates idle speed control
Idle speed regulator VAZ
- Check the condition and replace, if necessary, a torn or lost elasticity sealing ring of the regulator
Warning: Do not try to pull out or push in the valve with your hands, this may damage the idle speed control. To do this, you need to use a diagnostic device or a special monitor.
- We install a new sensor on the car, lubricate its O-ring with engine oil, and do not forget to connect the connector to it
Here we looked at the VAZ 2109 injector; the sensors on the engine may be different, depending on the model, but there is an air conditioner sensor located on the dashboard.
Signal to turn on the cabin air conditioner
If your car has an air conditioner in the cabin, the signal to start it comes from the switch sensor on the instrument panel:
- In this case, the ECU receives a signal that you want to turn on the air conditioner
- The computer first adjusts the engine's idle speed control to compensate for the increased load on the engine created by the air conditioning compressor, and then turns on the relay that controls the operation of the compressor
It seems that all possible sensors, malfunctions and replacements are listed, in addition you can find a video on each one separately.
Source
Knock sensor
Very often, the knock sensor of VAZ 21099 and 210115 fails, thereby disrupting engine operation. After all, its main task is to determine the moment of fuel microexplosions.
Any motorist knows that good proper operation of the engine depends on optimally selected ignition timing angles; ideally, they are different for each engine operating mode. This is why there is an ECU, whose main task is to set these angles as ideally as possible using a knock sensor. It is he who can accurately determine that the ignition timing is set incorrectly. The ECU program is written to set the ignition timing as large as possible in order to prevent the engine from going into the detonation zone.
The VAZ 21099 knock sensor, the injector of which has not been cleaned and diagnosed for a long time, fails very quickly, especially if it is a semi-handicraft fake, of which there are more than 80% on the market. After all, it is equipped with a very sensitive element that works on the principle of the piezoelectric effect. This device is mounted directly on the cylinder block.
If the knock sensor of a VAZ 21099, 210115 or other car brands fails, then the engine begins to overuse fuel, overheat and stall, it loses traction and the timing belt wears out greatly. The VAZ 21099 knock sensor is considered broken, the injector of which begins to produce the following tricks:
- the motor is troublesome;
- the car loses dynamics;
- when starting from a standstill and on an ascent, the check engine of the on-board computer lights up;
- The check engine lights up when the car accelerates quickly.
You can buy a VAZ 21099 knock sensor at any auto store for up to 200 rubles, or install a Volgov one, which costs up to 500 rubles and has unsurpassed quality.
Do not skimp on the knock, idle or throttle sensors of the VAZ 21099. And then the injector will be able to serve you faithfully for many years.
How to perform a sensor test
You need to understand that even highly accurate modern scanners cannot always reliably identify a malfunction. For a control check, you will need a digital voltmeter or ohmmeter. It is necessary to measure the voltage between the contacts. If the device is working properly, the resistance will be enormous. Low values or zero ohmmeter readings indicate the need for replacement.
Another way is to connect the contacts of a voltmeter and set the measurement limit to 200 millivolts. When hitting the sensor body, the device should show an increase of up to 40 mV. This parameter will directly depend on the force of the impact. The knock sensor prevents mechanical damage to the engine, so it is important to replace this element in a timely manner.